第22章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"Wild Wales",免费读到尾

  Ashewasstandingbeforealongbuilding,throughtheopendoorofwhichasoundproceededlikethatofpreaching,Iaskedhimwhatplaceitwas,andwhatwasgoingoninit,andreceivedforanswerthatitwastheNationalSchool,andthattherewasaclergymanpreachinginit。IthenaskediftheclergymanwasoftheChurch,andonlearningthathewas,Iforthwithenteredthebuilding,whereinoneendofalongroomIsawayoungmaninawhitesurplicepreachingfromadesktoaboutthirtyorfortypeople,whowereseatedonbenchesbeforehim。Isatdownandlistened。Theyoungmanpreachedwithgreatzealandfluency。Thesermonwasaveryseasonableone,beingabouttheharvest,andinitthingstemporalandspiritualwereveryhappilyblended。ThepartofthesermonwhichIheard—IregrettedthatIdidnothearthewhole—

  lastedaboutfive—and—twentyminutes:ahymnfollowed,andthenthecongregationbrokeup。Iinquiredthenameoftheyoungmanwhopreached,andwastoldthatitwasEdwards,andthathecamefromCaernarvon。ThenameoftheincumbentoftheparishwasThomas。

  LeavingthevillageoftheharvestsermonIproceededonmywaywhichlaytothesouth—east。IwasnowdrawingnightothemountainousdistrictofEryri;anoblehillcalledMountEilioappearedbeforemetothenorth;animmensemountaincalledPenDrwsCoedlayoveragainstitonthesouth,justlikeacouchantelephantwithitsheadlowerthanthetopofitsback。AfteratimeIenteredamostbeautifulsunnyvalley,andpresentlycametoabridgeoverapleasantstreamrunninginthedirectionofthesouth。AsIstooduponthatbridgeIalmostfanciedmyselfinParadise;everythinglookedsobeautifulorgrand—green,sunnymeadowslayallaroundme,intersectedbythebrook,thewatersofwhichranwithtinklinglaughteroverashinglybottom。NobleEiliotothenorth;enormousPenDrwsCoedtothesouth;atallmountainfarbeyondthemtotheeast。\"Ineverwasinsuchalovelyspot!\"Icriedtomyselfinaperfectrapture。\"Oh,howgladIshouldbetolearnthenameofthisbridge,standingonwhichIhavehad’Heavenopenedtome,’asmyoldfriendstheSpaniardsusedtosay。\"ScarcelyhadIsaidthesewordswhenI

  observedamanandawomancomingtowardsthebridgeinthedirectioninwhichIwasbound。Ihastenedtomeettheminthehopeofobtaininginformation。Theywerebothratheryoung,andwereprobablyacoupleofsweetheartstakingawalkorreturningfrommeeting。Thewomanwasafewstepsinadvanceoftheman;

  seeingthatIwasabouttoaddressher,sheavertedherheadandquickenedhersteps,andbeforeIhadcompletedthequestion,whichIputtoherinWelsh,shehadboltedpastmescreaming\"AhDimSeasneg,\"andwasseveralyardsdistant。

  Ithenaddressedmyselftothemanwhohadstopped,askinghimthenameofthebridge。

  \"PontBettws,\"hereplied。

  \"Andwhatmaybethenameoftheriver?\"saidI。

  \"Afon—something,\"saidhe。

  Andonmythankinghimhewentforwardtothewomanwhowaswaitingforhimbythebridge。

  \"IsthatmanWelshorEnglish?\"Iheardhersaywhenhehadrejoinedher。

  \"Idon’tknow,\"saidtheman—\"hewascivilenough;whywereyousuchafool?\"

  \"Oh,IthoughthewouldspeaktomeinEnglish,\"saidthewoman,\"andthethoughtofthathorridEnglishputsmeintosuchaflutter;youknowIcan’tspeakawordofit。\"

  TheyproceededontheirwayandIproceededonmine,andpresentlycomingtoalittleinnontheleftsideoftheway,attheentranceofavillage,Iwentin。

  Arespectable—lookingmanandwomanwereseatedatteaatatableinanicecleankitchen。Isatdownonachairnearthetable,andcalledforale—thealewasbroughtmeinajug—Idranksome,putthejugonthetable,andbegantodiscoursewiththepeopleinWelsh。Ahandsomedogwasseatedontheground;suddenlyitlaidoneofitspawsonitsmaster’sknee。

  \"Down,Perro,\"saidhe。

  \"Perro!\"saidI;\"whydoyoucallthedogPerro?\"

  \"WecallhimPerro,\"saidtheman,\"becausehisnameisPerro。\"

  \"Buthowcameyoutogivehimthatname?\"saidI。

  \"Wedidnotgiveittohim,\"saidtheman—\"heborethatnamewhenhecameintoourhands;afarmergavehimtouswhenhewasveryyoung,andtoldushisnamewasPerro。\"

  \"AndhowcamethefarmertocallhimPerro?\"saidI。

  \"Idon’tknow,\"saidtheman—\"whydoyouask?\"

  \"Perro,\"saidI,\"isaSpanishword,andsignifiesadogingeneral。IamrathersurprisedthatadoginthemountainsofWalesshouldbecalledbytheSpanishwordfordog。\"Ifellintoafitofmusing。\"HowSpanishwordsarediffused!WhereveryougoyouwillfindsomeSpanishwordorotherinuse。IhaveheardSpanishwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers—I

  havethisdayheardaSpanishwordinthemountainsofWales,andI

  havenodoubtthatwereItogotoIcelandIshouldfindSpanishwordsusedthere。HowcanIdoubtit;whenIreflectthatmorethansixhundredyearsago,oneofthewordstodenoteabadwomanwasSpanish。IntheoldestofIcelandicdomesticSagas,Skarphedin,thesonofNialtheseer,calledHallgerdr,widowofGunnar,aputa—andthatwordsomaddenedHallgerdrthatsheneverrestedtillshehadbroughtabouthisdestruction。Now,whythispreferenceeverywhereforSpanishwordsoverthoseofeveryotherlanguage?IneverheardFrenchwordsorGermanwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers。IquestionwhetherI

  shouldfindanyinIcelandformingpartofthevernacular。I

  certainlyneverfoundaFrenchorevenaGermanwordinanoldIcelandicSaga。WhythispartialityeverywhereforSpanishwords?

  thequestionispuzzling;atanyrateitputsmeout—\"

  \"Yes,itputsmeout!\"Iexclaimedaloud,strikingmyfistonthetablewithavehemencewhichcausedthegoodfolkstostarthalfupfromtheirseats。Beforetheycouldsayanything,however,avehicledroveuptothedoor,andamangettingoutcameintotheroom。Hehadaglazedhatonhishead,andwasdressedsomethingliketheguardofamail。Hetouchedhishattome,andcalledforaglassofwhiskey。IgavehimtheseleoftheeveningandenteredintoconversationwithhiminEnglish。InthecourseofdiscourseIlearnedthathewasthepostman,andwasgoinghisroundsinhiscart—hewasmorethanrespectfultome,hewasfawningandsycophantic。Thewhiskeywasbrought,andhestoodwiththeglassinhishand。SuddenlyhebeganspeakingWelshtothepeople;

  before,however,hehadutteredtwosentencesthewomanliftedherhandwithanalarmedair,crying\"Hush!heunderstands。\"Thefellowwasturningmetoridicule。Iflungmyheadback,closedmyeyes,openedmymouthandlaughedaloud。Thefellowstoodaghast;

  hishandtrembled,andhespiltthegreaterpartofthewhiskeyupontheground。AttheendofabouthalfaminuteIgotup,askedwhatIhadtopay,andonbeingtoldtwopence,Iputdownthemoney。ThengoinguptothemanIputmyrightforefingerveryneartohisnose,andsaid\"Dwyoiaithdwyowyneb,twolanguages,twofaces,friend!\"ThenafterleeringathimforamomentI

  wishedthepeopleofthehousegood—eveninganddeparted。

  WalkingrapidlyontowardstheeastIsoondrewneartheterminationofthevalley。ThevalleyterminatesinadeepgorgeorpassbetweenMountEilio—whichby—the—byeispartofthechineofSnowdon—andPenDrwsCoed。Thelatter,thatcouchantelephantwithitsheadturnedtothenorth—east,seemsasifitwishedtobarthepasswithitstrunk;byitstrunkImeanakindofjaggyridgewhichdescendsdowntotheroad。Ienteredthegorge,passingnearalittlewaterfallwhichwithmuchnoiserunsdowntheprecipitoussideofMountEilio;presentlyIcametoalittlemillbythesideofabrookrunningtowardstheeast。Iaskedthemiller—woman,whowasstandingnearthemill,withherheadturnedtowardsthesettingsun,thenameofthemillandthestream。\"Themilliscalled’ThemilloftheriverofLakeCwellyn,’\"saidshe,\"andtheriveriscalledtheriverofLakeCwellyn。\"

  \"Andwhoownstheland?\"saidI。

  \"SirRichard,\"saidshe。\"ISirRichardywynperthynytir。MrWilliams,however,possessessomepartofMountEilio。\"

  \"AndwhoisMrWilliams?\"saidI。

  \"WhoisMrWilliams?\"saidthemiller’swife。\"Ho,ho!whatastrangeryoumustbetoaskmewhoisMrWilliams。\"

  Ismiledandpassedon。Themillwasbelowtheleveloftheroad,anditswheelwasturnedbythewaterofalittleconduitsuppliedbythebrookatsomedistanceabovethemill。IhadobservedsimilarconduitsemployedforsimilarpurposesinCornwall。A

  littlebelowthemillwasaweir,andalittlebelowtheweirtheriverranfrothingpasttheextremeendoftheelephant’ssnout。

  FollowingthecourseoftheriverIatlastemergedwithitfromthepassintoavalleysurroundedbyenormousmountains。Extendingalongitfromwesttoeast,andoccupyingitsentiresouthernpartlayanoblongpieceofwater,intowhichthestreamletofthepassdischargeditself。Thiswasoneofthemanybeautifullakes,whichafewdaysbeforeIhadseenfromtheWyddfa。AsfortheWyddfaI

  nowbeheldithighabovemeinthenorth—eastlookingverygrandindeed,shininglikeasilverhelmetwhilstcatchingthegloriesofthesettingsun。

  Iproceededslowlyalongtheroad,thelakebelowmeonmyrighthand,whilsttheshelvysideofSnowdonroseabovemeontheleft。

  Theeveningwascalmandstill,andnonoisecameuponmyearsavethesoundofacascadefallingintothelakefromablackmountain,whichfrownedaboveitonthesouth,andcastagloomyshadowfaroverit。

  Thiscataractwasintheneighbourhoodofasingular—lookingrock,projectingabovethelakefromthemountain’sside。Iwanderedaconsiderablewaywithoutmeetingorseeingasinglehumanbeing。

  AtlastwhenIhadnearlygainedtheeasternendofthevalleyI

  sawtwomenseatedonthesideofthehill,onthevergeoftheroad,inthevicinityofahousewhichstoodalittlewayupthehill。ThelakeherewasmuchwiderthanIhadhithertoseenit,forthehugemountainonthesouthhadterminatedandthelakeexpandedconsiderablyinthatquarter,havinginsteadoftheblackmountainabeautifulhillbeyondit。

  Iquickenedmystepsandsooncameuptothetwoindividuals。Onewasanelderlyman,dressedinasmockfrockandwithahairycaponhishead。Theotherwasmuchyounger,woreahat,andwasdressedinacoarsesuitofbluenearlynew,anddoubtlesshisSunday’sbest。Hewassmokingapipe。IgreetedtheminEnglishandsatdownnearthem。Theyrespondedinthesamelanguage,theyoungermanwithconsiderablecivilityandbriskness,theotherinatoneofvoicedenotingsomereserve。

  \"MayIaskthenameofthislake?\"saidI,addressingmyselftotheyoungmanwhosatbetweenmeandtheelderlyone。

  \"ItsnameisLlynCwellyn,sir,\"saidhe,takingthepipeoutofhismouth。\"Andafinelakeitis。\"

  \"Plentyoffishinit?\"Idemanded。

  \"Plenty,sir;plentyoftroutandpikeandchar。\"

  \"Isitdeep?\"saidI。

  \"Neartheshoreitisshallow,sir,butinthemiddleandneartheothersideitisdeep,sodeepthatnooneknowshowdeepitis。\"

  \"Whatisthename,\"saidI,\"ofthegreatblackmountainthereontheotherside?\"

  \"ItiscalledMynyddMawrortheGreatMountain。Yonderrock,whichbulksoutfromit,downthelakeyonder,andwhichyoupassedasyoucamealong,iscalledCastellCidwm,whichmeansWolf’srockorcastle。\"

  \"Didawolfeverlivethere?\"Idemanded。

  \"Perhapsso,\"saidtheman,\"forIhaveheardsaythattherewerewolvesofoldinWales。\"

  \"Andwhatisthenameofthebeautifulhillyonder,beforeusacrossthewater?\"

  \"That,sir,iscalledCairnDrwsyCoed,\"saidtheman。

  \"Thestoneheapofthegateofthewood,\"saidI。

  \"AreyouWelsh,sir?\"saidtheman。

  \"No,\"saidI,\"butIknowsomethingofthelanguageofWales。I

  supposeyouliveinthathouse?\"

  \"Notexactly,sir,myfather—in—lawherelivesinthathouse,andmywifewithhim。Iamaminer,andspendsixdaysintheweekatmymine,buteverySundayIcomehereandpassthedaywithmywifeandhim。\"

  \"Andwhatprofessiondoeshefollow?\"saidI;\"isheafisherman?\"

  \"Fisherman!\"saidtheelderlymancontemptuously,\"notI。IamtheSnowdonRanger。\"

  \"Andwhatisthat?\"saidI。

  Theelderlymantossedhisheadproudly,andmadenoreply。

  \"Arangermeansaguide,sir,\"saidtheyoungerman;\"myfather—in—

  lawisgenerallytermedtheSnowdonRangerbecauseheisatip—topguide,andhehasnamedthehouseafterhimtheSnowdonRanger。HeentertainsgentlemeninitwhoputthemselvesunderhisguidanceinordertoascendSnowdonandtoseethecountry。\"

  \"Thereissomedifferenceinyourprofessions,\"said\"hedealsinheights,youindepths,both,however,arebreak—neckytrades。\"

  \"Irunmoreriskfromgunpowderthananythingelse,\"saidtheyoungerman。\"Iamaslate—miner,andamcontinuallyblasting。I

  have,however,hadmyfalls。Areyougoingfarto—night,sir?\"

  \"IamgoingtoBethGelert,\"saidI。

  \"Agoodsixmiles,sir,fromhere。DoyoucomefromCaernarvon?\"

  \"Fartherthanthat,\"saidI。\"IcomefromBangor。\"

  \"To—day,sir,andwalking?\"

  \"To—day,andwalking。\"

  \"Youmustberathertired,sir,youcamealongthevalleyveryslowly。\"

  \"Iamnotintheslightestdegreetired,\"saidI;\"whenIstartfromhere,Ishallputonmybestpace,andsoongettoBethGelert。\"

  \"Anybodycangetalongoverlevelground,\"saidtheoldman,laconically。

  \"Notwithequalswiftness,\"saidI。\"Idoassureyou,friend,tobeabletomoveatagoodswingingpaceoverlevelgroundissomethingnottobesneezedat。Not,\"saidI,liftingupmyvoice,\"thatIwouldforamomentcomparewalkingonthelevelgroundtomountainranging,pacingalongtheroadtospringingupcragslikeamountaingoat,orassertthatevenPowellhimself,thefirstofallroadwalkers,wasentitledtosobrightawreathoffameastheSnowdonRanger。\"

  \"Won’tyouwalkin,sir?\"saidtheelderlyman。

  \"No,Ithankyou,\"saidI,\"Iprefersittingoutheregazingonthelakeandthenoblemountains。\"

  \"Iwishyouwould,sir,\"saidtheelderlyman,\"andtakeaglassofsomething;Iwillchargeyounothing。\"

  \"Thankyou,\"saidI,\"Iaminwantofnothing,andshallpresentlystart。DomanypeopleascendSnowdonfromyourhouse?\"

  \"NotsomanyasIcouldwish,\"saidtheranger;\"peopleingeneralpreferascendingSnowdonfromthattrumperyplaceBethGelert;butthosewhodoarefools—beggingyourhonour’spardon。TheplacetoascendSnowdonfromismyhouse。ThewayfrommyhouseupSnowdoniswonderfulfortheromanticscenerywhichitaffords;

  thatfromBethGelertcan’tbenamedinthesamedaywithitforscenery;moreover,frommyhouseyoumayhavethebestguideinWales;whereastheguidesofBethGelert—butIsaynothing。IfyourhonourisboundfortheWyddfa,asIsupposeyouare,youhadbetterstartfrommyhouseto—morrowundermyguidance。\"

  \"IhavealreadybeenuptheWyddfafromLlanberis,\"saidI,\"andamnowgoingthroughBethGelerttoLlangollen,wheremyfamilyare;

  wereIgoingupSnowdonagainIshouldmostcertainlystartfromyourhouseunderyourguidance,andwereInotinahurryatpresent,Iwouldcertainlytakeupmyquartershereforaweek,andeverydaysnakeexcursionswithyouintotherecessesofEryri。I

  supposeyouareacquaintedwithallthesecretsofthehills?\"

  \"Trusttheoldrangerforthat,yourhonour。Iwouldshowyourhonourtheblacklakeinthefrightfulhollowinwhichthefisheshavemonstrousheadsandlittlebodies,thelakeonwhichneitherswan,ducknoranykindofwildfowlwaseverseentolight。ThenI

  wouldshowyourhonourthefountainofthehoppingcreatures,where,where—\"

  \"WereyoueveratthatWolf’scrag,thatCastellyCidwm?\"saidI。

  \"Can’tsayIeverwas,yourhonour。Youseeitliessocloseby,justacrossthelake,that—\"

  \"Youthoughtyoucouldseeitanyday,andsoneverwent,\"saidI。

  \"Canyoutellmewhetherthereareanyruinsuponit?\"

  \"Ican’t,yourhonour。\"

  \"Ishouldn’twonder,\"saidI,\"ifinoldtimesitwasthestrongholdofsomerobber—chieftain;cidwmintheoldWelshisfrequentlyappliedtoaferociousman。CastellCidwm,Ishouldthink,ratheroughttobetranslatedtherobber’scastlethanthewolf’srock。IfIevercomeintothesepartsagainyouandIwillvisitittogether,andseewhatkindofplaceitis。Nowfarewell!

  Itisgettinglate。\"Ithendeparted。

  \"Whatanicegentleman!\"saidtheyoungerman,whenIwasafewyardsdistant。

  \"Ineversawanicergentleman,\"saidtheoldranger。

  Ispedalong,Snowdononmyleft,thelakeonmyright,andthetipofamountainpeakrightbeforemeintheeast。AfteralittletimeIlookedback;whatascene!Thesilverlakeandtheshadowymountainoveritssouthernsidelookingnow,methought,verymuchlikeGibraltar。Ilingeredandlingered,gazingandgazing,andatlastonlybyanefforttoremyselfaway。Theeveninghadnowbecomedelightfullycoolinthislandofwonders。OnIsped,passingbytwonoisybrookscomingfromSnowdontopaytributetothelake。AndnowIhadleftthelakeandthevalleybehind,andwasascendingahill。AsIgaineditssummit,uprosethemoontocheermyway。Inalittletime,awildstonygorgeconfrontedme,astreamrandownthegorgewithhollowroar,abridgelayacrossit。IaskedafigurewhomIsawstandingbythebridgetheplace’sname。\"Rhyddu\"—theblackford—Icrossedthebridge。ThevoiceoftheMethodistwasyellingfromalittlechapelonmyleft。

  Iwenttothedoorandlistened:\"WhenthesinnertakesholdofGod,Godtakesholdofthesinner。\"Thevoicewasfrightfullyhoarse。Ipassedon:nightfellfastaroundme,andthemountaintothesouth—east,towardswhichIwastending,lookedblacklygrand。AndnowIcametoamilestoneonwhichIreadwithdifficulty:\"ThreemilestoBethGelert。\"Thewayforsometimehadbeenupward,butnowitwasdownward。Ireachedatorrent,whichcomingfromthenorth—westrushedunderabridge,overwhichIpassed。ThetorrentattendedmeonmyrighthandthewholewaytoBethGelert。Thedescentnowbecameveryrapid。Ipassedapinewoodonmyleft,andproceededformorethantwomilesatatremendousrate。Ithencametoawood—thiswoodwasjustaboveBethGelert—proceedinginthedirectionofablackmountain,I

  foundmyselfamongsthouses,atthebottomofavalley。Ipassedoverabridge,andinquiringofsomepeoplewhomImetthewaytotheinn,wasshownanedificebrilliantlylightedup,whichI

  entered。

  CHAPTERXLV

  InnatBethGelert—DelectableCompany—LieutenantP—。

  THEinnorhotelatBethGelertwasalargeandcommodiousbuilding,andwasanythingbutthrongedwithcompany;whatcompany,however,therewas,wasdisagreeableenough,perhapsmoresothanthatinwhichIhadbeentheprecedingevening,whichwascomposedofthescumofManchesterandLiverpool;thecompanyamongstwhichInowwas,consistedofsevenoreightindividuals,twoofthemweremilitarypuppies,oneatallishfellow,whothoughevidentlyupwardsofthirty,affectedtheairsofalanguishinggirl,andwouldfainhavemadepeoplebelievethathewasdyingofENNUIandlassitude。Theotherwasashortspuddyfellow,withabroaduglyfaceandwithspectaclesonhisnose,whotalkedveryconsequentiallyabout\"theservice\"andallthat,butwhosetoneofvoicewascoarseandhismannerthatofanunder—bredperson;thentherewasanoldfellowaboutsixty—five,acivilian,witharedcarbuncledface;hewasfatherofthespuddymilitarypuppy,onwhomheoccasionallycasteyesofprideandalmostadoration,andwhosesayingshemuchapplauded,especiallycertainDOUBLES

  ENTENDRES,tocallthembynoharsherterm,directedtoafatgirl,weighingsomefifteenstone,whoofficiatedinthecoffee—roomaswaiter。ThentherewasacreaturetodojusticetowhoseappearancewouldrequirethepencilofaHogarth。Hewasaboutfivefeetthreeinchesandaquarterhigh,andmighthaveweighed,alwaysprovidedastoneweighthadbeenattachedtohim,abouthalfasmuchasthefatgirl。Hiscountenancewascadaverousandwaseternallyagitatedbysomethingbetweenagrinandasimper。Hewasdressedinastyleofsuperfinegentility,andhisskeletonfingerswerebedizenedwithtawdryrings。Hisconversationwaschieflyabouthisbileandhissecretions,theefficacyoflicoriceinproducingacertaineffect,andtheexpediencyofchangingone’slinenatleastthreetimesaday;thoughhadhechangedhissix,I

  shouldhavesaidthatthepurificationofthelastshirtwouldhavebeennosinecuretothelaundress。HisaccentwasdecidedlyScotch:hespokefamiliarlyofScottandoneortwootherScotchworthies,andmorethanonceinsinuatedthathewasamemberofParliament。WithrespecttotherestofthecompanyIsaynothing,andfortheverysufficientreasonthat,unliketheabovedescribedbatch,theydidnotseemdisposedtobeimpertinenttowardsme。

  EagertogetoutofsuchsocietyIretiredearlytobed。AsIlefttheroomthediminutiveScotchindividualwasdescribingtotheoldsimpleton,whoonthegroundoftheother’sbeinga\"member,\"waslisteningtohimwithextremeattention,howhewaslabouringunderanaccessofbileowingtohishavinglefthislicoricesomewhereorother。Ipassedaquietnight,andinthemorningbreakfasted,paidmybill,anddeparted。AsIwentoutofthecoffee—roomthespuddy,broad—facedmilitarypuppywithspectacleswasvociferatingtothelanguishingmilitarypuppy,andtohisoldsimpletonofafather,whowaslisteningtohimwithhisusuallookofundisguisedadmiration,abouttheabsolutenecessityofkickingLieutenantP—

  outofthearmyforhavingdisgraced\"theservice。\"PoorP—,whoseonlycrimewastryingtodefendhimselfwithfistandcandlestickfromthemanualattacksofhisbrutalmessmates。

  CHAPTERXLVI

  TheValleyofGelert—LegendoftheDog—MagnificentScenery—

  TheKnicht—GoatsinWales—TheFrightfulCrag—TemperanceHouse—SmileandCurtsey。

  BETHGELERTissituatedinavalleysurroundedbyhugehills,themostremarkableofwhichareMoelHebogandCerrigLlan;theformerfencesitonthesouth,andthelatter,whichisquiteblackandnearlyperpendicular,ontheeast。Asmallstreamrushesthroughthevalley,andsalliesforthbyapassatitssouth—easternend。

  ThevalleyissaidbysometoderiveitsnameofBeddgelert,whichsignifiesthegraveofCelert,frombeingtheburial—placeofCelert,aBritishsaintofthesixthcentury,towhomLlangelerinCarmarthenshireisbelievedtohavebeenconsecrated,butthepopularandmostuniversallyreceivedtraditionisthatithasitsnamefrombeingtheresting—placeofafaithfuldogcalledCelertorGelert,killedbyhismaster,thewarlikeandcelebratedLlywelynabJorwerth,fromanunluckymisapprehension。Thoughthelegendisknowntomostpeople,Ishalltakethelibertyofrelatingit。

  LlywelynduringhiscontestswiththeEnglishhadencampedwithafewfollowersinthevalley,andonedaydepartedwithhismenonanexpedition,leavinghisinfantsoninacradleinhistent,underthecareofhishoundGelert,aftergivingthechilditsfillofgoat’smilk。Whilsthewasabsentawolffromtheneighbouringmountains,inquestofprey,founditswayintothetent,andwasabouttodevourthechild,whenthewatchfuldoginterfered,andafteradesperateconflict,inwhichthetentwastorndown,succeededindestroyingthemonster。Llywelynreturningateveningfoundthetentontheground,andthedog,coveredwithblood,sittingbesideit。ImaginingthatthebloodwithwhichGelertwasbesmearedwasthatofhisownsondevouredbytheanimaltowhosecarehehadconfidedhim,Llywelyninaparoxysmofnaturalindignationforthwithtransfixedthefaithfulcreaturewithhisspear。Scarcely,however,hadhedonesowhenhisearswerestartledbythecryofachildfrombeneaththefallentent,andhastilyremovingthecanvashefoundthechildinitscradle,quiteuninjured,andthebodyofanenormouswolf,frightfullytornandmangled,lyingnear。Hisbreastwasnowfilledwithconflictingemotions,joyforthepreservationofhisson,andgriefforthefateofhisdog,towhomheforthwithhastened。Thepooranimalwasnotquitedead,butpresentlyexpired,intheactoflickinghismaster’shand。Llywelynmournedoverhimasoverabrother,buriedhimwithfuneralhonoursinthevalley,anderectedatomboverhimasoverahero。FromthattimethevalleywascalledBethGelert。

  Suchisthelegend,which,whethertrueorfictitious,issingularlybeautifulandaffecting。

  Thetomb,orwhatissaidtobethetomb,ofGelert,standsinabeautifulmeadowjustbelowtheprecipitoussideofCerrigLlan:

  itconsistsofalargeslablyingonitsside,andtwouprightstones。Itisshadedbyaweepingwillow,andissurroundedbyahexagonalpaling。Whoisthereacquaintedwiththelegend,whetherhebelievesthatthedogliesbeneaththosestonesornot,canvisitthemwithoutexclaimingwithasigh,\"PoorGelert!\"

  Afterwanderingaboutthevalleyforsometime,andseeingafewofitswonders,IinquiredmywayforFestiniog,andsetoffforthatplace。Thewaytoitisthroughthepassatthesouth—eastendofthevalley。ArrivedattheentranceofthepassIturnedroundtolookatthesceneryIwasleavingbehindme;theviewwhichpresenteditselftomyeyeswasverygrandandbeautiful。BeforemelaythemeadowofGelertwiththeriverflowingthroughittowardsthepass。BeyondthemeadowtheSnowdonrange;ontherightthemightyCerrigLlan;onthelefttheequallymighty,butnotquitesoprecipitous,Hebog。Truly,thevalleyofGelertisawondrousvalley—rivallingforgrandeurandbeautyanyvaleeitherintheAlpsorPyrenees。AfteralongandearnestviewIturnedroundagainandproceededonmyway。

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