PresentlyIcametoabridgebestridingthestream，whichamantoldmewascalledPontAberGlasLyn，orthebridgeofthedebouchementofthegreylake。Isoonemergedfromthepass，andafterproceedingsomewaystoppedagaintoadmirethescenery。TothewestwastheWyddfa；fullnorthwasastupendousrangeofrocks；behindthemaconicalpeakseeminglyrivallingtheWyddfaitselfinaltitude；betweentherocksandtheroad，whereIstood，wasbeautifulforestscenery。Iagainwenton，goingroundthesideofahillbyagentleascent。AfteralittletimeIagainstoppedtolookaboutme。Therewastherichforestscenerytothenorth，behinditweretherocksandbehindtherocksrosethewonderfulconicalhillimpalingheaven；confrontingittothesouth—east，wasahugelumpishhill。AsIstoodlookingaboutmeI
sawamancomingacrossafieldwhichslopeddowntotheroadfromasmallhouse。Hepresentlyreachedme，stoppedandsmiled。A
moreopencountenancethanhisIneversawinallthedaysofmylife。
\"Dydddachwi，sir，\"saidthemanoftheopencountenance，\"theweatherisveryshowy。\"
\"Veryshowy，indeed，\"saidI；\"Iwasjustnowwishingforsomebody，ofwhomImightaskaquestionortwo。\"
\"PerhapsIcananswerthosequestions，sir？\"
\"Perhapsyoucan。Whatisthenameofthatwonderfulpeakstickingupbehindtherockstothenorth？\"
\"Manypeoplehaveaskedthatquestion，sir，andIhavegiventhemtheanswerwhichInowgiveyou。Itiscalledthe’Knicht，’sir；
andawondroushillitis。\"
\"Andwhatisthenameofyonderhilloppositetoit，tothesouth，risinglikeonebiglump。\"
\"Idonotknowthenameofthathill，sir，fartherthanthatIhavehearditcalledtheGreatHill。\"
\"Andaverygoodnameforit，\"saidI；\"doyouliveinthathouse？\"
\"Ido，sir，whenIamathome。\"
\"Andwhatoccupationdoyoufollow？\"
\"Iamafarmer，thoughasmallone。\"
\"Isyourfarmyourown？\"
\"Itisnot，sir：Iamnotsofarrich。\"
\"Whoisyourlandlord？\"
\"MrBlicklin，sir。Heismylandlord。\"
\"Isheagoodlandlord？\"
\"Verygood，sir，noonecanwishforabetterlandlord。\"
\"Hasheawife？\"
\"Intruth，sir，hehas；andaverygoodwifesheis。\"
\"Hashechildren？\"
\"Plenty，sir；andveryfinechildrentheyare。\"
\"IsheWelsh？\"
\"Heis，sir！Cumropuriawn。\"
\"Farewell，\"saidI；\"Ishallneverforgetyou；youarethefirsttenantIeverheardspeakwellofhislandlord，oranyoneconnectedwithhim。\"
\"ThenyouhavenotspokentotheothertenantsofMrBlicklin，sir。
EverytenantofMrBlicklinwouldsaythesameofhimasIhavesaid，andofhiswifeandhischildrentoo。Good—day，sir！\"
Iwendedonmyway；thesunwasverypowerful；sawcattleinapoolonmyright，maddenedwithheatandflies，splashingandfighting。
PresentlyIfoundmyselfwithextensivemeadowsonmyright，andawallofrocksonmyleft，onaloftybankbelowwhichIsawgoatsfeeding；beautifulcreaturestheywere，whiteandblack，withlongsilkyhair，andlonguprighthorns。Theywereoflargesize，andverydifferentinappearancefromthecommonrace。ThesewerethefirstgoatswhichIhadseeninWales；forWalesisnotatpresentthelandofgoats，whateveritmayhavebeen。
Ipassedunderacragexceedinglylofty，andofveryfrightfulappearance。Ithungmenacinglyovertheroad。Withthiscragthewallofrocksterminated；beyonditlayanextensivestrath，meadow，ormarshboundedonthecastbyaloftyhill。Theroadlayacrossthemarsh。Iwentforward，crossedabridgeoverabeautifulstreamlet，andsoonarrivedatthefootofthehill。Theroadnowtookaturntotheright，thatistothesouth，andseemedtoleadroundthehill。Justattheturnoftheroadstoodasmallneatcottage。Therewasaboardoverthedoorwithaninscription。
Idrewnighandlookedatit，expectingthatitwouldtellmethatgoodalewassoldwithin，andread：\"Teamadehere，thedraughtwhichcheersbutnotinebriates。\"Iwasbeforewhatisgenerallytermedatemperancehouse。
\"Thebilloffaredoesnottemptyou，sir，\"saidawomanwhomadeherappearanceatthedoor，justasIwasabouttoturnawaywithanexceedinglywryface。
\"Itdoesnot，\"saidI，\"andyououghttobeashamedofyourselftohavenothingbettertooffertoatravellerthanacupoftea。I
amfaint；andIwantgoodaletogivemeheart，notwishy—washyteatotakeawaythelittlestrengthIhave。\"
\"Whatwouldyouhavemedo，sir？GladshouldIbetohaveacupofaletoofferyou，butthemagistrates，whenIappliedtothemforalicence，refusedmeone；soIamcompelledtomakeacupoftea，inordertogetacrustofbread。Andifyouchoosetostepin，I
willmakeyouacupoftea，notwishy—washy，Iassureyou，butasgoodaseverwasbrewed。\"
\"IhadteaformybreakfastatBethGelert，\"saidI，\"andwantnomoretillto—morrowmorning。What’sthenameofthatstrange—
lookingcragacrossthevalley？\"
\"WecallitCraigyrhyllddrem，sir；whichmeans—Idon’tknowwhatitmeansinEnglish。\"
\"Doesitmeanthecragofthefrightfullook？\"
\"Itdoes，sir，\"saidthewoman；\"ah，IseeyouunderstandWelsh。
Sometimesit’scalledAlltTraeth。\"
\"Thehighplaceofthesandychannel，\"saidI；\"didtheseaevercomeuphere？\"
\"Ican’tsay，sir；perhapsitdid；whoknows？\"
\"Ishouldn’twonder，\"saidI，\"iftherewasonceanarmoftheseabetweenthatcragandthishill。Thankyou！Farewell。\"
\"Thenyouwon’twalkin，sir？
\"Nottodrinktea，\"saidI，\"teaisagoodthingatapropertime，butwereItodrinkitnow，itwouldmakemeill。\"
\"Pray，sir，walkin，\"saidthewoman，\"andperhapsIcanaccommodateyou。\"
\"Thenyouhaveale？\"saidI。
\"No，sir；notadrop，butperhapsIcansetsomethingbeforeyouwhichyouwilllikeaswell。\"
\"ThatIquestion，\"saidI，\"however，Iwillwalkin。\"
Thewomanconductedmeintoanicelittleparlour，and，leavingme，presentlyreturnedwithabottleandtumbleronatray。
\"Here，sir，\"saidshe，\"issomething，whichthoughnotale，Ihopeyouwillbeabletodrink。\"
\"Whatisit？\"saidI。
\"Itis—，sir；andbetterneverwasdrunk。\"
Itastedit；itwasterriblystrong。Thosewhowishforeitherwhiskyorbrandyfaraboveproof，shouldalwaysgotoatemperancehouse。
Itoldthewomantobringmesomewater，andshebroughtmeajugofwatercoldfromthespring。Withalittleofthecontentsofthebottle，andadealofthecontentsofthejug，Imademyselfabeveragetolerableenough；apoorsubstitute，however，toagenuineEnglishmanforhisproperdrink，theliquorwhich，accordingtotheEdda，iscalledbymenale，andbythegodsbeer。
Iaskedthewomanwhethershecouldread；shetoldmethatshecould，bothWelshandEnglish；shelikewiseinformedmethatshehadseveralbooksinbothlanguages。Ibeggedhertoshowmesome，whereuponshebroughtmesomehalfdozen，andplacingthemonthetableleftmetomyself。AmongstthebookswasavolumeofpoemsinWelsh，writtenbyRobertWilliamsofBetwsFawr，styledinpoeticlanguage，GwilymDuOEifion。Thepoemswerechieflyonreligioussubjects。ThefollowinglineswhichIcopiedfrom\"PethauawnaedmewnGardd，\"orthingswritteninagarden，appearedtomesingularlybeautiful：—
\"Mewngarddycafodddyneidwyllo；
Mewngarddyrhoedoddewididdo；
MewngarddbradychwydIesuhawddgar；
Mewngarddamdowydefmewndaear。\"
\"Inagardenthefirstofourracewasdeceived；
Inagardenthepromiseofgracehereceived；
InagardenwasJesusbetrayedtoHisdoom；
InagardenHisbodywaslaidinthetomb。\"
Havingfinishedmyglassof\"summut\"andmytranslation，IcalledtothewomanandaskedherwhatIhadtopay。
\"Nothing，\"saidshe，\"ifyouhadhadacupofteaIshouldhavechargedsixpence。\"
\"Youmakenocharge，\"saidI，\"forwhatIhavehad？\"
\"Nothing，sir，nothing。\"
\"Butsuppose，\"saidI，\"Iweretogiveyousomethingbywayofpresentwouldyou—\"andhereIstopped。Thewomansmiled。
\"Wouldyouflingitinmyface？\"saidI。
\"Ohdear，no，sir，\"saidthewoman，smilingmorethanbefore。
Igavehersomething—itwasnotasixpence—atwhichshenotonlysmiledbutcurtseyed；thenbiddingherfarewellIwentoutofthedoor。
Iwasabouttotakethebroadroad，whichledroundthehill，whensheinquiredofmewhereIwasgoing，andonmytellinghertoFestiniog，sheadvisedmetogobyaby—roadbehindthehousewhichledoverthehill。
\"Ifyoudo，sir，\"saidshe，\"youwillseesomeofthefinestprospectsinWales，getintothehighroadagain，andsaveamileandahalfofway。\"
ItoldthetemperancewomanIwouldfollowheradvice，whereuponsheledmebehindthehouse，pointedtoaruggedpath，whichwithaconsiderableascentseemedtoleadtowardsthenorth，andaftergivingcertaindirections，notveryintelligible，returnedtohertemperancetemple。
CHAPTERXLVII
SpanishProverb—TheShortCut—Predestinations—RhysGoch—OldCrusty—Undercharging—TheCavalier。
THESpaniardshaveaproverb：\"Nohayatajosintrabajo，\"thereisnoshortcutwithoutadealoflabour。Thisproverbisverytrue，asIknowbymyownexperience，forInevertookashortcutinmylife，andIhavetakenmanyinmywanderings，withoutfallingdown，gettingintoaslough，orlosingmyway。OnthepresentoccasionI
lostmyway，andwanderedaboutfornearlytwohoursamidstrocks，thickets，andprecipices，withoutbeingabletofindit。Thetemperancewoman，however，spokenothingbutthetruthwhenshesaidIshouldseesomefinescenery。FromarockIobtainedawonderfulviewoftheWyddfatoweringinsublimegrandeurinthewest，andofthebeautiful，butspectral，Knichtshootinguphighinthenorth；andfromthetopofabarehillIobtainedaprospecttothesouth，nobleindeed—waters，forests，hoarymountains，andinthefardistancethesea。ButallthesefineprospectswereapoorcompensationforwhatIunderwent：Iwasscorchedbythesun，whichwasinsufferablyhot，andmyfeetwerebleedingfromthesharppointsoftherockswhichcutthroughmybootslikerazors。
AtlengthcomingtoastonewallIflungmyselfdownunderit，andalmostthoughtthatIshouldgiveuptheghost。Aftersometime，however，Irecovered，andgettinguptriedtofindmywayoutoftheanialwch。Sheergoodfortunecausedmetostumbleuponapath，byfollowingwhichIcametoalonefarm—house，whereagood—
naturedwomangavemecertaindirectionsbymeansofwhichIatlastgotoutofthehotstonywilderness，forsuchitwas，uponasmoothroyalroad。
\"Trustmeagaintakinganyshortcuts，\"saidI，\"afterthespecimenIhavejusthad。\"This，however，Ihadfrequentlysaidbefore，andhavesaidsinceaftertakingshortcuts—andprobablyshalloftensayagainbeforeIcometomygreatjourney’send。
IturnedtotheeastwhichIknewtobemyproperdirection，andbeingnowonsmoothgroundputmylegstotheirbestspeed。Theroadbyarapiddescentconductedmetoabeautifulvalleywithasmalltownatitssouthernend。Isoonreachedthetown，andoninquiringitsnamefoundIwasinTanyBwlch，whichinterpretedsignifieth\"BelowthePass。\"FeelingmuchexhaustedIenteredtheGrapesInn。
OnmycallingforbrandyandwaterIwasshownintoahandsomeparlour。ThebrandyandwatersoonrestoredthevigourwhichIhadlostinthewilderness。Intheparlourwasaserious—lookinggentleman，withaglassofsomethingbeforehim。Withhim，asI
sippedmybrandyandwater，Igotintodiscourse。Thediscoursesoontookareligiousturn，andterminatedinadispute。Hetoldmehebelievedindivinepredestination；ItoldhimIdidnot，butthatIbelievedindivineprescience。HeaskedmewhetherIhopedtobesaved；ItoldhimIdid，andaskedhimwhetherhehopedtobesaved。Hetoldmehedidnot，andashesaidso，hetappedwithasilvertea—spoonontherimofhisglass。Isaidthatheseemedtotakeverycoollytheprospectofdamnation；herepliedthatitwasofnousetakingwhatwasinevitableotherwisethancoolly。I
askedhimonwhatgroundheimaginedheshouldbelost；herepliedonthegroundofbeingpredestinedtobelost。Iaskedhimhowheknewhewaspredestinedtobelost；whereuponheaskedmehowI
knewIwastobesaved。ItoldhimIdidnotknowIwastobesaved，buttrustedIshouldbesobybeliefinChrist，whocameintotheworldtosavesinners，andthatifhebelievedinChristhemightbeaseasilysavedasmyself，oranyothersinnerwhobelievedinHim。Ourdisputecontinuedaconsiderabletimelonger。
Atlast，findinghimsilent，andhavingfinishedmybrandyandwater，Igotup，rangthebell，paidforwhatIhadhad，andlefthimlookingverymiserable，perhapsatfindingthathewasnotquitesocertainofeternaldamnationashehadhithertosupposed。
Therecanbenodoubtthattheideaofdamnationisanythingbutdisagreeabletosomepeople；itgivesthemakindofgloomyconsequenceintheirowneyes。Wemustbesomethingparticulartheythink，orGodwouldhardlythinkitworthHiswhiletotormentusforever。
IinquiredthewaytoFestiniog，andfindingthatIhadpassedbyitonmywaytothetown，Iwentback，andasdirectedturnedtotheeastupawidepass，downwhichflowedariver。Isoonfoundmyselfinanotherandverynoblevalley，intersectedbytheriverwhichwasfedbynumerousstreamsrollingdownthesidesofthehills。TheroadwhichIfollowedinthedirectionoftheeastlayonthesouthernsideofthevalleyandledupwardbyasteepascent。OnIwent，amightyhillcloseonmyright。Mymindwasfullofenthusiasticfancies；IwasapproachingFestiniogthebirthplaceofRhysGoch，whostyledhimselfRhysGochofEryriorRedRhysofSnowdon，acelebratedbard，andapartisanofOwenGlendower，wholivedtoanimmenseage，andwho，asIhadread，wasinthehabitofcomposinghispiecesseatedonastonewhichformedpartofaDruidicalcircle，forwhichreasonthestonewascalledthechairofRhysGoch；yes，mymindwasfullofenthusiasticfanciesallconnectedwiththisRhysGoch，andasIwentalongslowly，IrepeatedstanzasoffuriouswarsongsofhisexcitinghiscountrymentoexterminatetheEnglish，andlikewisesnatchesofanabusiveodecomposedbyhimagainstafoxwhohadrunawaywithhisfavouritepeacock，apiecesoaboundingwithhardwordsthatitwastermedtheDrunkard’schokepear，asnodrunkardwaseverabletoreciteit，andeverandanonIwishedIcouldcomeincontactwithsomenativeoftheregionwithwhomIcouldtalkaboutRhysGoch，andwhocouldtellmewhereaboutsstoodhischair。
StrollingalonginthismannerIwasovertakenbyanoldfellowwithastickinhishand，walkingverybriskly。Hehadacrustyandratherconceitedlook。IspoketohiminWelsh，andheansweredinEnglish，sayingthatIneednottroublemyselfbyspeakingWelsh，ashehadplentyofEnglish，andoftheverybest。
Wewerefromfirsttolastatcrosspurposes。IaskedhimaboutRhysGochandhischair。Hetoldmethatheknewnothingofeither，andbegantotalkofHerMajesty’sministersandthefinesightsofLondon。Iaskedhimthenameofastreamwhich，descendingagorgeonourright，randownthesideofavalley，tojointheriveratitsbottom。Hetoldmethathedidnotknow，andaskedmethenameoftheQueen’seldestdaughter。ItoldhimIdidnotknow，andremarkedthatitwasveryoddthathecouldnottellmethenameofastreaminhisownvale。HerepliedthatitwasnotabitmoreoddthanthatIcouldnottellhimthenameoftheeldestdaughteroftheQueenofEngland：ItoldhimthatwhenI
wasinWalesIwantedtotalkaboutWelshmatters，andhetoldmethatwhenhewaswithEnglishhewantedtotalkaboutEnglishmatters。IreturnedtothesubjectofRhysGochandhischair，andhereturnedtothesubjectofHerMajesty’sministers，andthefinefolksofLondon。ItoldhimthatIcarednotastrawaboutHerMajesty’sministersandthefinefolksofLondon，andherepliedthathecarednotastrawforRhysGoch，hischairoroldwomen’sstoriesofanykind。
Regularlyincensedagainsttheoldfellow，ItoldhimhewasabadWelshman，andheretortedbysayingIwasabadEnglishman。Isaidheappearedtoknownexttonothing。HeretortedbysayingIknewlessthannothing，andalmostinarticulatewithpassionaddedthathescornedtowalkinsuchilliteratecompany，andsuitingtheactiontothewordsprangupasteepandrockyfootpathontheright，probablyashortcuttohisdomicile，andwasoutofsightinatwinkling。Wewerebothwrong：Imostso。Hewascrustyandconceited，butIoughttohavehumouredhimandthenImighthavegotoutofhimanythingheknew，alwayssupposingthatheknewanything。
Aboutanhour’swalkfromTanyBwlchbroughtmetoFestiniog，whichissituatedonthetopofaloftyhilllookingdownfromthesouth—east，onthevalleywhichIhavedescribed，andwhichasI
knownotitsnameIshallstyletheValleyofthenumerousstreams。
Iwenttotheinn，alargeold—fashionedhousestandingnearthechurch；themistressofitwasaqueer—lookingoldwoman，antiquatedinherdressandratherbluntinhermanner。Ofher，afterorderingdinner，ImadeinquiriesrespectingthechairofRhysGoch，butshesaidthatshehadneverheardofsuchathing，andafterglancingatmeaskew，foramoment，withacuriously—
formedlefteyewhichshehad，wentawaymutteringchair，chair；
leavingmeinalargeandratherdrearyparlour，towhichshehadshownme。Ifeltveryfatigued，ratherIbelievefromthatunluckyshortcutthanfromthelengthoftheway，forIhadnotcomemorethaneighteenmiles。DrawingachairtowardsatableIsatdown，andplacingmyelbowsupontheboardIleanedmyfaceuponmyupturnedhands，andpresentlyfellintoasweetsleep，fromwhichI
awokeexceedinglyrefreshedjustasamaidopenedtheroomdoortolaythecloth。
AfterdinnerIgotup，wentoutandstrolledabouttheplace。Itwassmall，andpresentednothingveryremarkable。TiredofstrollingIwentandleanedmybackagainstthewallofthechurchyardandenjoyedthecooloftheevening，foreveningwithitscoolnessandshadowshadnowcomeon。
AsIleanedagainstthewall，anelderlymancameupandenteredintodiscoursewithme。Hetoldmehewasabarberbyprofession，hadtravelledalloverWales，andhadseenLondon。IaskedhimaboutthechairofRhysGoch。Hetoldmethathehadheardofsomesuchchairalongtimeago，butcouldgivemenoinformationastowhereitstood。Iknownothowithappenedthathecametospeakaboutmylandlady，butspeakaboutherhedid。Hesaidthatshewasagoodkindofwoman，buttotallyunqualifiedforbusiness，assheknewnothowtocharge。Onmyobservingthatthatwasapieceofignorancewithwhichfewlandladiesorlandlordseitherweretaxable，hesaidthathoweverotherpublicansmightovercharge，underchargingwasherfoible，andthatshehadbroughtherselfverylowintheworldbyit—thattohiscertainknowledgeshemighthavebeenworththousandsinsteadofthetriflewhichshewaspossessedof，andthatshewasparticularlynotoriousforunderchargingtheEnglish，athingneverbeforedreamtofinWales。
ItoldhimthatIwasverygladthatIhadcomeundertheroofofsuchalandlady；theoldbarber，however，saidthatshewassettingabadexample，thatsuchgoingsoncouldnotlastlong，thatheknewhowthingswouldend，andfinallyworkinghimselfupintoaregulartiffleftmeabruptlywithoutwishingmegood—night。
Ireturnedtotheinn，andcalledforlights；thelightswereplaceduponthetableintheold—fashionedparlour，andIwaslefttomyself。Iwalkedupanddowntheroomsometime。Atlength，seeingsomeoldbookslyinginacorner，Ilaidholdofthem，carriedthemtothetable，satdownandbegantoinspectthem；theywerethethreevolumesofScott’s\"Cavalier\"—Ihadseenthisworkwhenayouth，andthoughtitatiresometrashypublication。
LookingoveritnowwhenIwasgrownoldIthoughtsostill，butI
nowdetectedinitwhatfromwantofknowledgeIhadnotdetectedinmyearlyyears，whatthehighestgenius，haditbeenmanifestedineverypage，couldnothavecompensatedfor，basefulsomeadulationoftheworthlessgreat，andmostunprincipledlibellingofthetrulynobleonesoftheearth，becausetheythesonsofpeasantsandhandycraftsmen，stoodupfortherightsofoutragedhumanity，andproclaimedthatitisworthmakesthemanandnotembroideredclothing。Theheartless，unprincipledsonofthetyrantwastransformedinthatworthlessbookintoaslightly—
dissipated，itistrue，butuponthewholebrave，generousandamiablebeing；andHarrison，theEnglishRegulus，honest，brave，unflinchingHarrison，intoapseudo—fanatic，amixtureoftherogueandfool。Harrison，probablythemanofthemostnobleandcourageousheartthatEnglandeverproduced，whowhenallwaslostscornedtoflee，likethesecondCharlesfromWorcester，but，bravedinfamousjudgesandthegallows，whowhenreproachedonhismocktrialwithcomplicityinthedeathoftheking，gavethenobleanswerthat\"Itwasathingnotdoneinacorner，\"andwheninthecartonthewaytoTyburn，onbeingaskedjeeringlybyalord’sbastardinthecrowd，\"Whereisthegoodoldcausenow？\"thricestruckhisstrongfistonthebreastwhichcontainedhiscourageousheart，exclaiming，\"Here，here，here！\"Yetforthat\"Cavalier，\"
thattrumperypublication，thebooksellersofEngland，onitsfirstappearance，gaveanordertotheamountofsixthousandpounds。
Buttheywerewiseintheirgeneration；theyknewthatthebookwouldpleasethebase，slavishtasteoftheage，atastewhichtheauthoroftheworkhadhadnoslightshareinforming。
Tiredafterawhilewithturningoverthepagesofthetrashy\"Cavalier\"Ireturnedthevolumestotheirplaceinthecorner，blewoutonecandle，andtakingtheotherinmyhandmarchedofftobed。
CHAPTERXLVIII
TheBill—TheTwoMountains—SheetofWater—TheAfanc—Crocodile—TheAfanc—Beaver—TaiHirion—KindWoman—ArenigVawr—TheBeamandMote—Bala。
AFTERbreakfastingIdemandedmybill。Iwascurioustoseehowlittletheamountwouldbe，forafterwhatIhadheardfromtheoldbarbertheprecedingeveningabouttheutterignoranceofthelandladyinmakingacharge，InaturallyexpectedthatIshouldhavenexttonothingtopay。Whenitwasbrought，however，andthelandladybroughtitherself，Icouldscarcelybelievemyeyes。
Whethertheworthywomanhadlatelycometoaperceptionofthefollyofundercharging，andhaddeterminedtoadoptadifferentsystem；whetheritwasthatseeingmetheonlyguestinthehouseshehaddeterminedtochargeformyentertainmentwhatsheusuallychargedforthatoftwoorthree—strangeby—the—byethatIshouldbetheonlyguestinahousenotoriousforundercharging—Iknownot，butcertainitistheamountofthebillwasfar，farfromthenexttonothingwhichtheoldbarberhadledmetosupposeIshouldhavetopay，whoperhapsafterallhadveryextravagantideaswithrespecttomakingoutabillforaSaxon。Itwas，however，notaveryunconscionablebill，andmerelyamountedtoatriflemorethanIhadpaidatBethGelertforsomewhatbetterentertainment。
Havingpaidthebillwithoutdemurandbiddenthelandladyfarewell，whodisplayedthesamekindofindifferentbluntnesswhichshehadmanifestedthedaybefore，Isetoffinthedirectionoftheeast，intendingthatmynextstageshouldbeBala。PassingthroughatollgateIfoundmyselfinakindofsuburbconsistingofafewcottages。Struckwiththeneighbouringscenery，Istoppedtoobserveit。AmightymountainrisesinthenorthalmostabreastofFestiniog；anothertowardstheeastdividedintotwoofunequalsize。SeeingawomanofaninterestingcountenanceseatedatthedoorofacottageIpointedtothehilltowardsthenorth，andspeakingtheWelshlanguage，inquireditsname。
\"Thathill，sir，\"saidshe，\"iscalledMoelWyn。\"
NowMoelWynsignifiesthewhite，barehill。
\"Andhowdoyoucallthosetwohillstowardstheeast？\"
\"Wecallone，sir，MynyddMawr，theotherMynyddBach。\"
NowMynyddMawrsignifiesthegreatmountainandMynyddBachthelittleone。
\"Doanypeopleliveinthosehills？\"
\"Themenwhoworkthequarries，sir，liveinthosehills。Theyandtheirwivesandtheirchildren。Nootherpeople。\"
\"HaveyouanyEnglish？\"
\"Ihavenot，sir。Nopeoplewholiveonthissidethetalcot（tollgate）foralongwayhaveanyEnglish。\"
Iproceededonmyjourney。ThecountryforsomewayeastwardofFestiniogisverywildandbarren，consistingofhugehillswithouttreesorverdure。Aboutthreemiles’distance，however，thereisabeautifulvalley，whichyoulookdownuponfromthesouthernsideoftheroad，afterhavingsurmountedaverysteepascent。Thisvalleyisfreshandgreenandthelowerpartsofthehillsonitsfarthersideare，hereandthere，adornedwithgroves。Attheeasternendisadeep，darkgorge，orravine，downwhichtumblesabrookinasuccessionofsmallcascades。Theravineisclosebytheroad。Thebrookafterdisappearingforatimeshowsitselfagainfardowninthevalley，andisdoubtlessoneofthetributariesoftheTanyBwlchriver，perhapstheverysamebrookthenameofwhichIcouldnotlearntheprecedingdayinthevale。
AsIwasgazingontheprospectanoldmandrivingapeatcartcamefromthedirectioninwhichIwasgoing。IaskedhimthenameoftheravineandhetoldmeitwasCeunantCoomborhollow—dinglecoomb。Iaskedthenameofthebrook，andhetoldmethatitwascalledthebrookofthehollow—dinglecoomb，addingthatitranunderPontNewydd，thoughwherethatwasIknewnot。Whilsthewastalkingwithmehestooduncovered。Yes，theoldpeatdriverstoodwithhishatinhishandwhilstansweringthequestionsofthepoor，dustyfoot—traveller。WhatafinethingtobeanEnglishmaninWales！