\"Weare，yourreverence。\"
\"Woulditnotbequiterighttosaddleandbridleyouall，andrideyouviolentlydownHolyheadortheGiant’sCausewayintothewaters，causingyoutoperishthere，liketheherdofswineofold？\"
\"Itwould，yourreverence。\"
\"Andknowingandconfessingallthis，youhavethecheektocomeandaskmeforablessing？\"
\"Wehave，yourreverence。\"
\"Well，howshallIgivetheblessing？\"
\"Och，sureyourreverenceknowsverywellhowtogiveit。\"
\"ShallIgiveitinIrish？\"
\"Och，no，yourreverence—ablessinginIrishisnoblessingatall。\"
\"InEnglish？\"
\"Och，murder，no，yourreverence，GodpreserveusallfromanEnglishblessing！\"
\"InLatin？\"
\"Yes，sure，yourreverence；inwhatelseshouldyoublessusbutinholyLatin？\"
\"Wellthenprepareyourselves。\"
\"Wewill，yourreverence—stayonemomentwhilstIwhispertotheboysthatyourreverenceisabouttobestowyourblessinguponus。\"
Thenturningtotherestwhoallthistimehadkepttheireyesfixedintentlyuponus，hebellowedwiththevoiceofabull：
\"Downonyourmarrowbones，yesinners，forhisreverenceTobanisabouttoblessusallinholyLatin。\"
Hethenflunghimselfonhiskneesonthepier，andallhiscountrymen，baringtheirheads，followedhisexample—yes，therekneltthirtybare—headedEirionaichonthepierofCaerGybibeneaththebroilingsun。IgavethemthebestLatinblessingI
couldremember，outoftwoorthreewhichIhadgotbymemoryoutofanoldPopishbookofdevotion，whichIboughtinmyboyhoodatastall。ThenturningtothedeputyIsaid，\"Well，nowareyousatisfied？\"
\"Sure，Ihavearighttobesatisfied，yourreverence；andsohaveweall—surewecannowallgoonboardthedirtysteamer，withoutfearoffireorwater，ortheblackguardHillofHowtheither。\"
\"Thengetup，andtelltheresttogetup，andpleasetoknowandlettherestknow，thatIdonotchoosetoreceivefarthertrouble，eitherbywordorlook，fromanyofye，aslongasIremainhere。\"
\"Yourreverenceshallbeobeyedinallthings，\"saidthefellow，gettingup。Thenwalkingawaytohiscompanionshecried，\"Getup，boys，andplasetoknowthathisreverenceTobanisnottobefarthertroubledbybeinglookedatorspokentobyanyoneofusaslongasheremainsuponthisdirtypier。\"
\"Divilabitfarthertroubleshallhehavefromus！\"exclaimedmanyavoice，astherestofthepartyarosefromtheirknees。
InhalfaminutetheydisposedthemselvesinmuchthesamemannerasthatinwhichtheywerewhenIfirstsawthem—someflungthemselvesagaintosleepunderthewall，someseatedthemselveswiththeirbacksagainstit，andlaughedandchatted，butwithouttakinganynoticeofme；thosewhosatandchattedtook，orappearedtotake，aslittlenoticeasthosewholayandsleptofhisreverenceFatherToban。
CHAPTERXLII
GageofSuffolk—FellowinaTurban—TownofHolyhead—FatherBoots—AnExpedition—HolyHeadandFinisterrae—GryffithabCynan—TheFairies’Well。
LEAVINGthepierIturnedupastreettothesouth，andwasnotlongbeforeIarrivedatakindofmarket—place，wherewerecartsandstalls，andontheground，oncloths，applesandplums，andabundanceofgreengages，—thelatter，whengood，decidedlythefinestfruitintheworld，afruit，fortheintroductionofwhichintoEngland，theEnglishhavetothankoneGageofanancientSuffolkfamily，atpresentextinct，afterwhosenamethefruitderivesthelatterpartofitsappellation。Strollingaboutthemarket—placeIcameincontactwithafellowdressedinaturbananddirtybluelinenrobesandtrowsers。Heboreabundleofpapersinhishand，oneofwhichheofferedtome。Iaskedhimwhohewas。
\"Arap，\"hereplied。
Hehadadark，cunning，roguishcountenance，withsmalleyes，andhadalltheappearanceofaJew。IspoketohiminwhatArabicI
couldcommandonasudden，andhejabberedtomeinacorruptdialect，givingmeaconfusedaccountofacaptivitywhichhehadundergoneamidstsavageMahometans。AtlastIaskedhimwhatreligionhewasof。
\"TheChristian，\"hereplied。
\"HaveyoueverbeenoftheJewish？\"saidI。
Hereturnednoanswersavebyagrin。
Itookthepaper，gavehimapenny，andthenwalkedaway。ThepapercontainedanaccountinEnglishofhowthebearer，thesonofChristianparents，hadbeencarriedintocaptivitybytwoMahometanmerchants，afatherandson，fromwhomhehadescapedwiththegreatestdifficulty。
\"Prettyfools，\"saidI，\"mustanypeoplehavebeenwhoeverstoleyou；butohwhatfoolsiftheywishedtokeepyouaftertheyhadgotyou！\"
Thepaperwasstuffedwithreligiousandanti—slaverycant，andmerelywantedalittleoftheteetotalnonsensetobeaperfectspecimenofhumbug。
Istrolledforward，encounteringmorecartsandmoreheapsofgreengages；presentlyIturnedtotherightbyastreet，whichledsomewayupthehill。Thehousesweretolerablylargeandallwhite。Thetown，withitswhitehousesplacedbytheseaside，ontheskirtofamountain，beneathablueskyandabroilingsun，putmesomethinginmindofaMoorishpiraticaltown，inwhichIhadoncebeen。Becomingsoontiredofwalkingabout，withoutanyparticularaim，insogreataheat，Ideterminedtoreturntotheinn，callforale，anddeliberateonwhatIhadbestnextdo。SoI
returnedandcalledforale。ThealewhichwasbroughtwasnotalewhichIamparticularlyfondof。ThealewhichIamfondofisaleaboutnineortenmonthsold，somewhathard，tastingwellofmaltandlittleofthehop—alesuchasfarmers，andnoblementoo，ofthegoodoldtime，whenfarmers’daughtersdidnotplayonpianosandnoblemendidnotselltheirgame，wereinthehabitofofferingtobothhighandlow，anddrinkingthemselves。Thealewhichwasbroughtmewasthinwashystuff，whichthoughitdidnottastemuchofhop，tastedstilllessofmalt，madeandsoldbyoneAllsopp，whoIamtoldcallshimselfasquireandagentleman—ashecertainlymaywithquiteasmuchrightasmanyalordcallshimselfanoblemanandagentleman；forsurelyitisnotafractionmoretrumperytomakeandsellalethantofattenandsellgame。ThealeoftheSaxonsquire，forAllsoppisdecidedlyanoldSaxonname，howeverunakintothepracticeofoldSaxonsquiresthesellingofalemaybe，wasdrinkableforitwasfresh，andtheday，asIhavesaidbefore，exceedinglyhot；soItookfrequentdraughtsoutoftheshiningmetaltankardinwhichitwasbrought，deliberatingbothwhilstdrinking，andintheintervalsofdrinking，onwhatIhadnextbestdo。Ihadsomethoughtsofcrossingtothenorthernsideofthebay，then，bearingthenorth—
east，wendmywaytoAmlwch，followthewindingsofthesea—shoretoMathafarneithafandPentraethCoch，andthenreturntoBangor，afterwhichIcouldboastthatIhadwalkedroundthewholeofAnglesey，andindeedtroddennoinconsiderablepartofthewaytwice。Beforecoming，however，toanyresolution，Ideterminedtoasktheadviceofmyfriendthebootsonthesubject。SoI
finishedmyale，andsentwordbythewaiterthatIwishedtospeaktohim；hecameforthwith，andaftercommunicatingmydeliberationstohiminafewwordsIcravedhiscounsel。Theoldman，afterrubbinghisrightforefingerbehindhisrightearforaboutaquarterofaminute，inquiredifImeanttoreturntoBangor，andonmytellinghimthatitwouldbenecessaryformetodoso，asI
intendedtowalkbacktoLlangollenbyCaernarvonandBethGelert，stronglyadvisedmetoreturntoBangorbytherailroadtrain，whichwouldstartatsevenintheevening，andwouldconveymethitherinanhourandahalf。ItoldhimthatIhatedrailroads，andreceivedforanswerthathehadnoparticularlikingforthemhimself，butthatheoccasionallymadeuseofthemonapinch，andsupposedthatIlikewisedidthesame。Ithenobserved，thatifI
followedhisadviceIshouldnotseethenorthsideoftheislandnoritsprincipaltownAmlwch，andreceivedforanswerthatifI
neverdid，thelosswouldnotbegreat—thatasforAmlwchitwasapoorpoverty—strickenplace—theinnashabbyaffair—themasteraveryso—soindividual，andthebootsafellowwithouteitherwitorliterature。ThatuponthewholehethoughtImightbesatisfiedwithwhatIhadseenforafterhavingvisitedOwenTudor’stomb，CaerGybiandhishotel，IhadinfactseenthecreamofMona。IthensaidthatIhadoneobjectiontomake，whichwasthatIreallydidnotknowhowtoemploythetimetillseveno’clock，forthatIhadseenallaboutthetown。
\"ButhasyourhonourascendedtheHead？\"demandedFatherBoots。
\"No，\"saidI；\"Ihavenot。\"
\"Then，\"saidhe，\"Iwillsoonfindyourhonourwaysandmeanstospendthetimeagreeablytillthestartingofthetrain。YourhonourshallascendtheHeadundertheguidanceofmynephew，aniceintelligentlad，yourhonour，andalwaysgladtoearnashillingortwo。BythetimeyourhonourhasseenallthewondersoftheHeadandreturned，itwillbefiveo’clock。Yourhonourcanthendine，andafterdinnertrifleawaytheminutesoveryourwineorbrandy—and—watertillseven，whenyourhonourcanstepintoafirst—classforBangor。\"
Iwasstruckwiththehappymannerinwhichhehadremovedthedifficultyinquestion，andinformedhimthatIwasdeterminedtofollowhisadvice。Hehurriedaway，andpresentlyreturnedwithhisnephew，towhomIofferedhalf—a—crownprovidedhewouldshowmeallaboutPenCaerGyby。Heacceptedmyofferwithevidentsatisfaction，andwelostnotimeinsettingoutuponourexpedition。
Wehadtopassoveragreatdealofbrokenground，sometimesascending，sometimesdescending，beforewefoundourselvesuponthesideofwhatmayactuallybecalledtheheadland。Shapingourcoursewestwardwecametothevicinityofalighthousestandingonthevergeofaprecipice，thefootofwhichwaswashedbythesea。
Leavingthelighthouseonourrightwefollowedasteepwindingpathwhichatlastbroughtustothetopofthepenorsummit，rising，accordingtothejudgmentwhichIformed，aboutsixhundredfeetfromthesurfaceofthesea。Herewasalevelspotsometwentyyardsacross，inthemiddleofwhichstoodaheapofstonesorcairn。Iaskedtheladwhetherthiscairnboreaname，andreceivedforanswerthatitwasgenerallycalledBar—cluderyCawrGlas，wordswhichseemtosignifythetopheapoftheGreyGiant。
\"Someking，giant，ormanofoldrenownliesburiedbeneaththiscairn，\"saidI。\"Whoeverhemaybe，Itrusthewillexcusemeformountingit，seeingthatIdosowithnodisrespectfulspirit。\"I
thenmountedthecairn，exclaiming：—
\"Wholies’neaththecairnontheheadlandhoar，Hishandyetholdinghisbroadclaymore，IsitBeli，thesonofBenlliGawr？\"
TherestoodIonthecairnoftheGreyGiant，lookingaroundme。
Theprospect，oneveryside，wasnoble：theblueinterminableseatothewestandnorth；thewholestretchofMonatotheeast；andfarawaytothesouththemountainousregionofEryri，comprisingsomeofthemostromantichillsintheworld。InsomerespectsthisPenSantaidd，thisholyheadland，remindedmeofFinisterrae，theGalleganpromontorywhichIhadascendedsomeseventeenyearsbefore，whilstengagedinbattlingthePopewiththeswordofthegospelinhisfavouriteterritory。Botharebold，bluffheadlandslookingtothewest，bothhavehugerocksintheirvicinity，risingfromthebosomofthebrine。Foratime，asIstoodonthecairn，IalmostimaginedmyselfontheGalleganhill；muchthesamescenerypresenteditselfasthere，andasunequallyfiercestruckuponmyheadasthatwhichassaileditontheGalleganhill。ForatimeallmythoughtswereofSpain。Itwasnotlong，however，beforeIbethoughtmethatmylotwasnowinadifferentregion，thatIhaddonewithSpainforever，afterdoingforherallthatlayinthepowerofaloneman，whohadneverinthisworldanythingtodependupon，butGodandhisownslightstrength。Yes，IhaddonewithSpain，andwasnowinWales；and，afteraslightsigh，mythoughtsbecameallintenselyWelsh。IthoughtontheoldtimeswhenMonawasthegrandseatofDruidicalsuperstition，whenadorationwaspaidtoDwyFawr，andDwyFach，thesolesurvivorsoftheapocryphalDeluge；toHutheMightyandhisplough；toCeridwenandhercauldron；toAndrastheHorrible；toWynabNudd，LordofUnknown，andtoBeli，EmperoroftheSun。IthoughtonthetimeswhentheBealfireblazedonthisheight，ontheneighbouringpromontory，onthecope—stoneofEryri，andoneveryhighhillthroughoutBritainontheeveofthefirstofMay。IthoughtonthedaywhenthebandsofSuetoniuscrossedtheMenaistraitintheirbroad—bottomedboats，fellupontheDruidsandtheirfollowers，whowithwildlooksandbrandishedtorcheslinedtheshore，slewhundredswithmercilessbutcheryupontheplains，andpursuedtheremaindertotheremotestfastnessesoftheisle。I
figuredtomyselflong—beardedmenwithwhitevestmentstoilinguptherocks，followedbyfiercewarriorswithglitteringhelmsandshortbroadtwo—edgedswords；IthoughtIheardgroans，criesofrage，andthedull，awfulsoundofbodiesprecipitateddownrocks。
ThenasIlookedtowardstheseaIthoughtIsawthefleetofGryffithAbCynansteeringfromIrelandtoAberMenai，Gryffith，thesonofafugitiveking，borninIreland，intheCommotofColumbcille，Gryffiththefrequentlybaffled，theoftenvictorious；
onceamanacledprisonersweatinginthesun，inthemarket—placeofChester，eventuallykingofNorthWales；Gryffith，who\"thoughhelovedwellthetrumpet’sclanglovedthesoundoftheharpbetter\"；wholedonhiswarriorstotwenty—fourbattles，andpresidedoverthecompositionofthetwenty—fourmeasuresofCambriansong。ThenIthought—。ButIshouldtirethereaderwereItodetailalltheintenselyWelshthoughtswhichcrowdedintomyheadasIstoodontheCairnoftheGreyGiant。
Satiatedwithlookingaboutandthinking，Isprangfromthecairnandrejoinedmyguide。Wenowdescendedtheeasternsideofthehilltillwecametoasingularlookingstone，whichhadmuchtheappearanceofaDruid’sstone。Iinquiredofmyguidewhethertherewasanytaleconnectedwiththisstone。
\"None，\"hereplied；\"butIhaveheardpeoplesaythatitwasastrangestone，andonthataccountIbroughtyoutolookatit。\"
Alittlefartherdownheshowedmepartofaruinedwall。
\"Whatnamedoesthisbear？\"saidI。
\"ClawddyrAfalon，\"hereplied。\"Thedykeoftheorchard。\"
\"Astrangeplaceforanorchard，\"Ireplied。\"Iftherewaseveranorchardonthisbleakhill，theapplesmusthavebeenverysour。\"
Overrocksandstoneswedescendedtillwefoundourselvesonaroad，notveryfarfromtheshore，onthesouth—eastsideofthehill。
\"Iamverythirsty，\"saidI，asIwipedtheperspirationfrommyface；\"howIshouldlikenowtodrinkmyfillofcoolspringwater。\"
\"Ifyourhonourisinclinedforwater，\"saidmyguide，\"IcantakeyoutothefinestspringinallWales。\"
\"Praydoso，\"saidI，\"forIreallyamdyingofthirst。\"
\"Itisonourwaytothetown，\"saidthelad，\"andisscarcelyahundredyardsoff。\"
Hethenledmetothefountain。Itwasalittlewellunderastonewall，ontheleftsideoftheway。Itmightbeabouttwofeetdeep，wasfencedwithrudestones，andhadabottomofsand。
\"There，\"saidthelad，\"isthefountain。ItiscalledtheFairies’
Well，andcontainsthebestwaterinWales。\"
Ilaydownanddrank。Oh，whatwaterwasthatoftheFairies’
Well！Idrankanddrank，andthoughtIcouldneverdrinkenoughofthatdeliciouswater；theladallthetimesayingthatIneednotbeafraidtodrink，asthewateroftheFairies’Wellhadneverdoneharmtoanybody。AtlengthIgotup，andstandingbythefountainrepeatedthelinesofabardonaspring，notofaWelshbutaGaelicbard，whichareperhapsthefinestlinesevercomposedonthetheme。YetMacIntyre，forsuchwashisname，waslikemyselfanadmirerofgoodale，tosaynothingofwhiskey，andlovedtoindulgeinitatapropertimeandplace。Butthereisatimeandplaceforeverything，andsometimesthewarmestadmirerofalewouldpreferthelymphofthehill—sidefountaintothechoicestalethateverfoamedintankardfromthecellarsofHolkham。Herearethelinesmostfaithfullyrendered：—
\"Thewildwineofnature，Honey—likeinitstaste，Thegenial，fair，thinelementFilteringthroughthesands，Whichissweeterthancinnamon，Andiswellknowntoushunters。
O，thateternal，healingdraught，Whichcomesfromundertheearth，WhichcontainsabundanceofgoodAndcostsnomoney！\"
ReturningtothehotelIsatisfiedmyguideanddined。AfterdinnerItrifledagreeablywithmybrandy—and—watertillitwasnearseveno’clock，whenIpaidmybill，thoughtofthewaiteranddidnotforgetFatherBoots。Ithentookmydeparture，receivingandreturningbows，andwalkingtothestationgotintoafirst—
classcarriageandsoonfoundmyselfatBangor。
CHAPTERXLIII
TheInnatBangor—PortDynNorwig—SeaSerpent—ThoroughlyWelshPlace—BlessingofHealth。
IWENTtothesameinnatBangoratwhichIhadbeenbefore。ItwasSaturdaynightandthehousewasthrongedwithpeoplewhohadarrivedbytrainfromManchesterandLiverpool，withtheintentionofpassingtheSundayintheWelshtown。Itookteainanimmensediningorball—room，whichwas，however，socrowdedwithgueststhatitswallsliterallysweated。AmidstthemultitudeIfeltquitesolitary—mybelovedoneshaddepartedforLlangollen，andtherewasnoonewithwhomIcouldexchangeathoughtorawordofkindness。Iaddressedseveralindividuals，andineveryinstancerepented；fromsomeIgotnoanswers，fromotherswhatwasworsethannoanswersatall—ineverycountenancenearmesuspicion，brutality，orconceit，wasmostlegiblyimprinted—IwasnotamongstWelsh，butthescumofmanufacturingEngland。
Everybedinthehousewasengaged—thepeopleofthehouse，however，providedmeabedataplacewhichtheycalledthecottage，onthesideofahillintheoutskirtsofthetown。ThereIpassedthenightcomfortablyenough。AtabouteightinthemorningIarose，returnedtotheinn，breakfasted，anddepartedforBethGelertbywayofCaernarvon。
ItwasSunday，andIhadoriginallyintendedtopassthedayatBangor，andtoattenddivineservicetwiceattheCathedral，butI
foundmyselfsoveryuncomfortable，owingtothecrowdofinterlopers，thatIdeterminedtoproceedonmyjourneywithoutdelay；makingupmymind，however，toenterthefirstchurchI
shouldmeetinwhichservicewasbeingperformed；foritisreallynotgoodtotravelontheSundaywithoutgoingintoaplaceofworship。
Thedaywassunnyandfiercelyhot，asallthedayshadlatelybeen。InaboutanhourIarrivedatPortDynNorwig：itstoodontherightsideoftheroad。Thenameofthisplace，whichIhadheardfromthecoachmanwhodrovemyfamilyandmetoCaernarvonandLlanberisafewdaysbefore，hadexcitedmycuriositywithrespecttoit，asitsignifiesthePortoftheNorwayman，soInowturnedasidetoexamineit。\"Nodoubt，\"saidItomyself，\"theplacederivesitsnamefromthepiraticalDanesandNorsehavingresortedtoitintheoldtime。\"PortDynNorwigseemstoconsistofacreek，astaithe，andaboutahundredhouses：afewsmallvesselswerelyingatthestaithe。Istoodabouttenminutesuponitstaringabout，andthenfeelingratheroppressedbytheheatofthesun，Ibentmywaytoasmallhousewhichboreasign，andfromwhichaloudnoiseofvoicesproceeded。\"Haveyougoodale？\"saidIinEnglishtoagood—lookingbuxomdameofaboutforty，whomI
sawinthepassage。
Shelookedatmebutreturnednoanswer。
\"Oesgenochcwrwda？\"saidI。
\"Oes！\"sherepliedwithasmile，andopeningthedoorofaroomontheleft—handbademewalkin。
Ienteredtheroom；sixorsevenmen，seeminglysea—faringpeople，wereseateddrinkingandtalkingvociferouslyinWelsh。Theirconversationwasaboutthesea—serpent：somebelievedintheexistenceofsuchathing，othersdidnot。Afteralittletimeonesaid，\"Letusaskthisgentlemanforhisopinion。\"
\"Andwhatwouldbetheuseofaskinghim？\"saidanother，\"wehaveonlyCumraeg，andhehasonlySaesneg。\"
\"IhavealittlebrokenCumraeg，attheserviceofthisgoodcompany，\"saidI。\"WithrespecttothesnakeoftheseaIbegleavetosaythatIbelieveintheexistenceofsuchacreature；
andamsurprisedthatanypeopleinthesepartsshouldnotbelieveinit：why，thesea—serpenthasbeenseenintheseparts。\"
\"Whenwasthat，GwrBoneddig？\"saidoneofthecompany。
\"Aboutfiftyyearsago，\"saidI。\"OnceinOctober，intheyear1805，asasmallvesseloftheTraethwasupontheMenai，sailingveryslowly，theweatherbeingverycalm，thepeopleonboardsawastrangecreaturelikeanimmensewormswimmingafterthem。Itsoonovertookthem，climbedonboardthroughthetiller—hole，andcoileditselfonthedeckunderthemast—thepeopleatfirstweredreadfullyfrightened，buttakingcouragetheyattackeditwithanoaranddroveitoverboard；itfollowedthevesselforsometime，butabreezespringinguptheylostsightofit。\"
\"Andhowdidyoulearnthis？\"saidthelastwhohadaddressedme。
\"Ireadthestory，\"saidI，\"inapureWelshbookcalledtheGreal。\"
\"Inowrememberhearingthesamething，\"saidanoldman，\"whenI
wasaboy；ithadsliptoutofmymemory，butnowIrememberallaboutit。TheshipwascalledtheROBERTELLIS。Areyouoftheseparts，gentleman？\"
\"No，\"saidI，\"Iamnotoftheseparts。\"
\"ThenyouareofSouthWales—indeedyourWelshisverydifferentfromours。\"
\"IamnotofSouthWales，\"saidI，\"Iamtheseednotofthesea—
snakebutofthecoilingserpent，forsooneoftheoldWelshpoetscalledtheSaxons。\"
\"ButhowdidyoulearnWelsh？\"saidtheoldman。
\"Ilearneditbythegrammar，\"saidI，\"alongtimeago。\"
\"Ah，youlearntitbythegrammar，\"saidtheoldman；\"thataccountsforyourWelshbeingdifferentfromours。WedidnotlearnourWelshbythegrammar—yourWelshisdifferentfromours，andofcoursebetter，beingtheWelshofthegrammar。Ah，itisafinethingtobeagrammarian。\"
\"Yes，itisafinethingtobeagrammarian，\"criedtherestofthecompany，andIobservedthateverybodynowregardedmewithakindofrespect。
Ajugofalewhichthehostesshadbroughtmehadbeenstandingbeforemesometime。Inowtasteditandfounditverygood。
Whilstdespatchingit，IaskedvariousquestionsabouttheoldDanes，thereasonwhytheplacewascalledtheportoftheNorwegian，andaboutitstrade。ThegoodfolksknewnothingabouttheoldDanes，andaslittleastothereasonofitsbeingcalledtheportoftheNorwegian—buttheysaidthatbesidesthatnameitborethatofMelinHeli，orthemillofthesaltpool，andthatslateswereexportedfromthence，whichcamefromquarriescloseby。
Havingfinishedmyale，IbadethecompanyadieuandquittedPortDynNorwig，oneofthemostthoroughlyWelshplacesIhadseen，forduringthewholetimeIwasinit，IheardnowordsofEnglishuttered，exceptthetwoorthreespokenbymyself。InaboutanhourIreachedCaernarvon。
TheroadfromBangortoCaernarvonisverygoodandthesceneryinteresting—finehillsborderitontheleft，orsouth—east，andontherightatsomedistanceistheMenaiwithAngleseybeyondit。
NotfarfromCaernarvonasandbankcommences，extendingformilesuptheMenai，towardsBangor，anddividingthestraitintotwo。
IwenttotheCastleInnwhichfrontsthesquareormarket—place，andbeingshownintoaroomorderedsomebrandy—and—water，andsatdown。Twoyoungmenwereseatedintheroom。Ispoketothemandreceivedcivilanswers，atwhichIwasratherastonished，asI
foundbythetoneoftheirvoicesthattheywereEnglish。Theairofonewasfarsuperiortothatoftheother，andwithhimIwassooninconversation。Inthecourseofdiscourseheinformedmethatbeingamartyrtoill—healthhehadcomefromLondontoWales，hopingthatchangeofair，andexerciseontheWelshhills，wouldaffordhimrelief，andthathisfriendhadbeenkindenoughtoaccompanyhim。ThathehadbeenaboutthreeweeksinWales，hadtakenalltheexercisethathecould，butthathewasstillveryunwell，sleptlittleandhadnoappetite。Itoldhimnottobediscouraged，buttoproceedinthecoursewhichhehadadoptedtilltheendofsummer，bywhichtimeIthoughtitveryprobablethathewouldberestoredtohishealth，ashewasstillyoung。Atthesewordsofmineabeamofhopebrightenedhiscountenance，andhesaidthathehadnootherwishthantoregainhishealth，andthatifhedidheshouldbethehappiestofmen。TheintensewishofthepooryoungmanforhealthcausedmetothinkhowinsensibleI
hadhithertobeentothepossessionofthegreatestofallterrestrialblessings。Ihadalwayshadthehealthofanelephant，butIneverrememberedtohavebeensensibletothemagnitudeoftheblessingorintheslightestdegreegratefultoGodwhogaveit。IshudderedtothinkhowIshouldfeelifsuddenlydeprivedofmyhealth。Farworse，nodoubt，thanthatpoorinvalid。Hewasyoung，andinyouththereishope—butIwasnolongeryoung。Atlast，however，IthoughtthatifGodtookawaymyhealthHemightsofaraltermymindthatImightbehappyevenwithouthealth，ortheprospectofit；andthatreflectionmademequitecomfortable。
CHAPTERXLIV
NationalSchool—TheYoungPreacher—PontBettws—SpanishWords—TwoTongues，TwoFaces—TheElephant’sSnout—LlynCwellyn—
TheSnowdonRanger—MyHouse—CastellyCidwm—DescenttoBethGelert。
ITmightbeaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoonwhenIleftCaernarvonforBethGelert，distantaboutthirteenmiles。I
journeyedthroughabeautifulcountryofhillanddale，woodsandmeadows，thewholegildedbyabundanceofsunshine。AfterwalkingaboutanhourwithoutintermissionIreachedavillage，andaskedamanthenameofit。
\"Llan—something，\"hereplied。