\"Weare,yourreverence。\"
\"Woulditnotbequiterighttosaddleandbridleyouall,andrideyouviolentlydownHolyheadortheGiant’sCausewayintothewaters,causingyoutoperishthere,liketheherdofswineofold?\"
\"Itwould,yourreverence。\"
\"Andknowingandconfessingallthis,youhavethecheektocomeandaskmeforablessing?\"
\"Wehave,yourreverence。\"
\"Well,howshallIgivetheblessing?\"
\"Och,sureyourreverenceknowsverywellhowtogiveit。\"
\"ShallIgiveitinIrish?\"
\"Och,no,yourreverence—ablessinginIrishisnoblessingatall。\"
\"InEnglish?\"
\"Och,murder,no,yourreverence,GodpreserveusallfromanEnglishblessing!\"
\"InLatin?\"
\"Yes,sure,yourreverence;inwhatelseshouldyoublessusbutinholyLatin?\"
\"Wellthenprepareyourselves。\"
\"Wewill,yourreverence—stayonemomentwhilstIwhispertotheboysthatyourreverenceisabouttobestowyourblessinguponus。\"
Thenturningtotherestwhoallthistimehadkepttheireyesfixedintentlyuponus,hebellowedwiththevoiceofabull:
\"Downonyourmarrowbones,yesinners,forhisreverenceTobanisabouttoblessusallinholyLatin。\"
Hethenflunghimselfonhiskneesonthepier,andallhiscountrymen,baringtheirheads,followedhisexample—yes,therekneltthirtybare—headedEirionaichonthepierofCaerGybibeneaththebroilingsun。IgavethemthebestLatinblessingI
couldremember,outoftwoorthreewhichIhadgotbymemoryoutofanoldPopishbookofdevotion,whichIboughtinmyboyhoodatastall。ThenturningtothedeputyIsaid,\"Well,nowareyousatisfied?\"
\"Sure,Ihavearighttobesatisfied,yourreverence;andsohaveweall—surewecannowallgoonboardthedirtysteamer,withoutfearoffireorwater,ortheblackguardHillofHowtheither。\"
\"Thengetup,andtelltheresttogetup,andpleasetoknowandlettherestknow,thatIdonotchoosetoreceivefarthertrouble,eitherbywordorlook,fromanyofye,aslongasIremainhere。\"
\"Yourreverenceshallbeobeyedinallthings,\"saidthefellow,gettingup。Thenwalkingawaytohiscompanionshecried,\"Getup,boys,andplasetoknowthathisreverenceTobanisnottobefarthertroubledbybeinglookedatorspokentobyanyoneofusaslongasheremainsuponthisdirtypier。\"
\"Divilabitfarthertroubleshallhehavefromus!\"exclaimedmanyavoice,astherestofthepartyarosefromtheirknees。
InhalfaminutetheydisposedthemselvesinmuchthesamemannerasthatinwhichtheywerewhenIfirstsawthem—someflungthemselvesagaintosleepunderthewall,someseatedthemselveswiththeirbacksagainstit,andlaughedandchatted,butwithouttakinganynoticeofme;thosewhosatandchattedtook,orappearedtotake,aslittlenoticeasthosewholayandsleptofhisreverenceFatherToban。
CHAPTERXLII
GageofSuffolk—FellowinaTurban—TownofHolyhead—FatherBoots—AnExpedition—HolyHeadandFinisterrae—GryffithabCynan—TheFairies’Well。
LEAVINGthepierIturnedupastreettothesouth,andwasnotlongbeforeIarrivedatakindofmarket—place,wherewerecartsandstalls,andontheground,oncloths,applesandplums,andabundanceofgreengages,—thelatter,whengood,decidedlythefinestfruitintheworld,afruit,fortheintroductionofwhichintoEngland,theEnglishhavetothankoneGageofanancientSuffolkfamily,atpresentextinct,afterwhosenamethefruitderivesthelatterpartofitsappellation。Strollingaboutthemarket—placeIcameincontactwithafellowdressedinaturbananddirtybluelinenrobesandtrowsers。Heboreabundleofpapersinhishand,oneofwhichheofferedtome。Iaskedhimwhohewas。
\"Arap,\"hereplied。
Hehadadark,cunning,roguishcountenance,withsmalleyes,andhadalltheappearanceofaJew。IspoketohiminwhatArabicI
couldcommandonasudden,andhejabberedtomeinacorruptdialect,givingmeaconfusedaccountofacaptivitywhichhehadundergoneamidstsavageMahometans。AtlastIaskedhimwhatreligionhewasof。
\"TheChristian,\"hereplied。
\"HaveyoueverbeenoftheJewish?\"saidI。
Hereturnednoanswersavebyagrin。
Itookthepaper,gavehimapenny,andthenwalkedaway。ThepapercontainedanaccountinEnglishofhowthebearer,thesonofChristianparents,hadbeencarriedintocaptivitybytwoMahometanmerchants,afatherandson,fromwhomhehadescapedwiththegreatestdifficulty。
\"Prettyfools,\"saidI,\"mustanypeoplehavebeenwhoeverstoleyou;butohwhatfoolsiftheywishedtokeepyouaftertheyhadgotyou!\"
Thepaperwasstuffedwithreligiousandanti—slaverycant,andmerelywantedalittleoftheteetotalnonsensetobeaperfectspecimenofhumbug。
Istrolledforward,encounteringmorecartsandmoreheapsofgreengages;presentlyIturnedtotherightbyastreet,whichledsomewayupthehill。Thehousesweretolerablylargeandallwhite。Thetown,withitswhitehousesplacedbytheseaside,ontheskirtofamountain,beneathablueskyandabroilingsun,putmesomethinginmindofaMoorishpiraticaltown,inwhichIhadoncebeen。Becomingsoontiredofwalkingabout,withoutanyparticularaim,insogreataheat,Ideterminedtoreturntotheinn,callforale,anddeliberateonwhatIhadbestnextdo。SoI
returnedandcalledforale。ThealewhichwasbroughtwasnotalewhichIamparticularlyfondof。ThealewhichIamfondofisaleaboutnineortenmonthsold,somewhathard,tastingwellofmaltandlittleofthehop—alesuchasfarmers,andnoblementoo,ofthegoodoldtime,whenfarmers’daughtersdidnotplayonpianosandnoblemendidnotselltheirgame,wereinthehabitofofferingtobothhighandlow,anddrinkingthemselves。Thealewhichwasbroughtmewasthinwashystuff,whichthoughitdidnottastemuchofhop,tastedstilllessofmalt,madeandsoldbyoneAllsopp,whoIamtoldcallshimselfasquireandagentleman—ashecertainlymaywithquiteasmuchrightasmanyalordcallshimselfanoblemanandagentleman;forsurelyitisnotafractionmoretrumperytomakeandsellalethantofattenandsellgame。ThealeoftheSaxonsquire,forAllsoppisdecidedlyanoldSaxonname,howeverunakintothepracticeofoldSaxonsquiresthesellingofalemaybe,wasdrinkableforitwasfresh,andtheday,asIhavesaidbefore,exceedinglyhot;soItookfrequentdraughtsoutoftheshiningmetaltankardinwhichitwasbrought,deliberatingbothwhilstdrinking,andintheintervalsofdrinking,onwhatIhadnextbestdo。Ihadsomethoughtsofcrossingtothenorthernsideofthebay,then,bearingthenorth—
east,wendmywaytoAmlwch,followthewindingsofthesea—shoretoMathafarneithafandPentraethCoch,andthenreturntoBangor,afterwhichIcouldboastthatIhadwalkedroundthewholeofAnglesey,andindeedtroddennoinconsiderablepartofthewaytwice。Beforecoming,however,toanyresolution,Ideterminedtoasktheadviceofmyfriendthebootsonthesubject。SoI
finishedmyale,andsentwordbythewaiterthatIwishedtospeaktohim;hecameforthwith,andaftercommunicatingmydeliberationstohiminafewwordsIcravedhiscounsel。Theoldman,afterrubbinghisrightforefingerbehindhisrightearforaboutaquarterofaminute,inquiredifImeanttoreturntoBangor,andonmytellinghimthatitwouldbenecessaryformetodoso,asI
intendedtowalkbacktoLlangollenbyCaernarvonandBethGelert,stronglyadvisedmetoreturntoBangorbytherailroadtrain,whichwouldstartatsevenintheevening,andwouldconveymethitherinanhourandahalf。ItoldhimthatIhatedrailroads,andreceivedforanswerthathehadnoparticularlikingforthemhimself,butthatheoccasionallymadeuseofthemonapinch,andsupposedthatIlikewisedidthesame。Ithenobserved,thatifI
followedhisadviceIshouldnotseethenorthsideoftheislandnoritsprincipaltownAmlwch,andreceivedforanswerthatifI
neverdid,thelosswouldnotbegreat—thatasforAmlwchitwasapoorpoverty—strickenplace—theinnashabbyaffair—themasteraveryso—soindividual,andthebootsafellowwithouteitherwitorliterature。ThatuponthewholehethoughtImightbesatisfiedwithwhatIhadseenforafterhavingvisitedOwenTudor’stomb,CaerGybiandhishotel,IhadinfactseenthecreamofMona。IthensaidthatIhadoneobjectiontomake,whichwasthatIreallydidnotknowhowtoemploythetimetillseveno’clock,forthatIhadseenallaboutthetown。
\"ButhasyourhonourascendedtheHead?\"demandedFatherBoots。
\"No,\"saidI;\"Ihavenot。\"
\"Then,\"saidhe,\"Iwillsoonfindyourhonourwaysandmeanstospendthetimeagreeablytillthestartingofthetrain。YourhonourshallascendtheHeadundertheguidanceofmynephew,aniceintelligentlad,yourhonour,andalwaysgladtoearnashillingortwo。BythetimeyourhonourhasseenallthewondersoftheHeadandreturned,itwillbefiveo’clock。Yourhonourcanthendine,andafterdinnertrifleawaytheminutesoveryourwineorbrandy—and—watertillseven,whenyourhonourcanstepintoafirst—classforBangor。\"
Iwasstruckwiththehappymannerinwhichhehadremovedthedifficultyinquestion,andinformedhimthatIwasdeterminedtofollowhisadvice。Hehurriedaway,andpresentlyreturnedwithhisnephew,towhomIofferedhalf—a—crownprovidedhewouldshowmeallaboutPenCaerGyby。Heacceptedmyofferwithevidentsatisfaction,andwelostnotimeinsettingoutuponourexpedition。
Wehadtopassoveragreatdealofbrokenground,sometimesascending,sometimesdescending,beforewefoundourselvesuponthesideofwhatmayactuallybecalledtheheadland。Shapingourcoursewestwardwecametothevicinityofalighthousestandingonthevergeofaprecipice,thefootofwhichwaswashedbythesea。
Leavingthelighthouseonourrightwefollowedasteepwindingpathwhichatlastbroughtustothetopofthepenorsummit,rising,accordingtothejudgmentwhichIformed,aboutsixhundredfeetfromthesurfaceofthesea。Herewasalevelspotsometwentyyardsacross,inthemiddleofwhichstoodaheapofstonesorcairn。Iaskedtheladwhetherthiscairnboreaname,andreceivedforanswerthatitwasgenerallycalledBar—cluderyCawrGlas,wordswhichseemtosignifythetopheapoftheGreyGiant。
\"Someking,giant,ormanofoldrenownliesburiedbeneaththiscairn,\"saidI。\"Whoeverhemaybe,Itrusthewillexcusemeformountingit,seeingthatIdosowithnodisrespectfulspirit。\"I
thenmountedthecairn,exclaiming:—
\"Wholies’neaththecairnontheheadlandhoar,Hishandyetholdinghisbroadclaymore,IsitBeli,thesonofBenlliGawr?\"
TherestoodIonthecairnoftheGreyGiant,lookingaroundme。
Theprospect,oneveryside,wasnoble:theblueinterminableseatothewestandnorth;thewholestretchofMonatotheeast;andfarawaytothesouththemountainousregionofEryri,comprisingsomeofthemostromantichillsintheworld。InsomerespectsthisPenSantaidd,thisholyheadland,remindedmeofFinisterrae,theGalleganpromontorywhichIhadascendedsomeseventeenyearsbefore,whilstengagedinbattlingthePopewiththeswordofthegospelinhisfavouriteterritory。Botharebold,bluffheadlandslookingtothewest,bothhavehugerocksintheirvicinity,risingfromthebosomofthebrine。Foratime,asIstoodonthecairn,IalmostimaginedmyselfontheGalleganhill;muchthesamescenerypresenteditselfasthere,andasunequallyfiercestruckuponmyheadasthatwhichassaileditontheGalleganhill。ForatimeallmythoughtswereofSpain。Itwasnotlong,however,beforeIbethoughtmethatmylotwasnowinadifferentregion,thatIhaddonewithSpainforever,afterdoingforherallthatlayinthepowerofaloneman,whohadneverinthisworldanythingtodependupon,butGodandhisownslightstrength。Yes,IhaddonewithSpain,andwasnowinWales;and,afteraslightsigh,mythoughtsbecameallintenselyWelsh。IthoughtontheoldtimeswhenMonawasthegrandseatofDruidicalsuperstition,whenadorationwaspaidtoDwyFawr,andDwyFach,thesolesurvivorsoftheapocryphalDeluge;toHutheMightyandhisplough;toCeridwenandhercauldron;toAndrastheHorrible;toWynabNudd,LordofUnknown,andtoBeli,EmperoroftheSun。IthoughtonthetimeswhentheBealfireblazedonthisheight,ontheneighbouringpromontory,onthecope—stoneofEryri,andoneveryhighhillthroughoutBritainontheeveofthefirstofMay。IthoughtonthedaywhenthebandsofSuetoniuscrossedtheMenaistraitintheirbroad—bottomedboats,fellupontheDruidsandtheirfollowers,whowithwildlooksandbrandishedtorcheslinedtheshore,slewhundredswithmercilessbutcheryupontheplains,andpursuedtheremaindertotheremotestfastnessesoftheisle。I
figuredtomyselflong—beardedmenwithwhitevestmentstoilinguptherocks,followedbyfiercewarriorswithglitteringhelmsandshortbroadtwo—edgedswords;IthoughtIheardgroans,criesofrage,andthedull,awfulsoundofbodiesprecipitateddownrocks。
ThenasIlookedtowardstheseaIthoughtIsawthefleetofGryffithAbCynansteeringfromIrelandtoAberMenai,Gryffith,thesonofafugitiveking,borninIreland,intheCommotofColumbcille,Gryffiththefrequentlybaffled,theoftenvictorious;
onceamanacledprisonersweatinginthesun,inthemarket—placeofChester,eventuallykingofNorthWales;Gryffith,who\"thoughhelovedwellthetrumpet’sclanglovedthesoundoftheharpbetter\";wholedonhiswarriorstotwenty—fourbattles,andpresidedoverthecompositionofthetwenty—fourmeasuresofCambriansong。ThenIthought—。ButIshouldtirethereaderwereItodetailalltheintenselyWelshthoughtswhichcrowdedintomyheadasIstoodontheCairnoftheGreyGiant。
Satiatedwithlookingaboutandthinking,Isprangfromthecairnandrejoinedmyguide。Wenowdescendedtheeasternsideofthehilltillwecametoasingularlookingstone,whichhadmuchtheappearanceofaDruid’sstone。Iinquiredofmyguidewhethertherewasanytaleconnectedwiththisstone。
\"None,\"hereplied;\"butIhaveheardpeoplesaythatitwasastrangestone,andonthataccountIbroughtyoutolookatit。\"
Alittlefartherdownheshowedmepartofaruinedwall。
\"Whatnamedoesthisbear?\"saidI。
\"ClawddyrAfalon,\"hereplied。\"Thedykeoftheorchard。\"
\"Astrangeplaceforanorchard,\"Ireplied。\"Iftherewaseveranorchardonthisbleakhill,theapplesmusthavebeenverysour。\"
Overrocksandstoneswedescendedtillwefoundourselvesonaroad,notveryfarfromtheshore,onthesouth—eastsideofthehill。
\"Iamverythirsty,\"saidI,asIwipedtheperspirationfrommyface;\"howIshouldlikenowtodrinkmyfillofcoolspringwater。\"
\"Ifyourhonourisinclinedforwater,\"saidmyguide,\"IcantakeyoutothefinestspringinallWales。\"
\"Praydoso,\"saidI,\"forIreallyamdyingofthirst。\"
\"Itisonourwaytothetown,\"saidthelad,\"andisscarcelyahundredyardsoff。\"
Hethenledmetothefountain。Itwasalittlewellunderastonewall,ontheleftsideoftheway。Itmightbeabouttwofeetdeep,wasfencedwithrudestones,andhadabottomofsand。
\"There,\"saidthelad,\"isthefountain。ItiscalledtheFairies’
Well,andcontainsthebestwaterinWales。\"
Ilaydownanddrank。Oh,whatwaterwasthatoftheFairies’
Well!Idrankanddrank,andthoughtIcouldneverdrinkenoughofthatdeliciouswater;theladallthetimesayingthatIneednotbeafraidtodrink,asthewateroftheFairies’Wellhadneverdoneharmtoanybody。AtlengthIgotup,andstandingbythefountainrepeatedthelinesofabardonaspring,notofaWelshbutaGaelicbard,whichareperhapsthefinestlinesevercomposedonthetheme。YetMacIntyre,forsuchwashisname,waslikemyselfanadmirerofgoodale,tosaynothingofwhiskey,andlovedtoindulgeinitatapropertimeandplace。Butthereisatimeandplaceforeverything,andsometimesthewarmestadmirerofalewouldpreferthelymphofthehill—sidefountaintothechoicestalethateverfoamedintankardfromthecellarsofHolkham。Herearethelinesmostfaithfullyrendered:—
\"Thewildwineofnature,Honey—likeinitstaste,Thegenial,fair,thinelementFilteringthroughthesands,Whichissweeterthancinnamon,Andiswellknowntoushunters。
O,thateternal,healingdraught,Whichcomesfromundertheearth,WhichcontainsabundanceofgoodAndcostsnomoney!\"
ReturningtothehotelIsatisfiedmyguideanddined。AfterdinnerItrifledagreeablywithmybrandy—and—watertillitwasnearseveno’clock,whenIpaidmybill,thoughtofthewaiteranddidnotforgetFatherBoots。Ithentookmydeparture,receivingandreturningbows,andwalkingtothestationgotintoafirst—
classcarriageandsoonfoundmyselfatBangor。
CHAPTERXLIII
TheInnatBangor—PortDynNorwig—SeaSerpent—ThoroughlyWelshPlace—BlessingofHealth。
IWENTtothesameinnatBangoratwhichIhadbeenbefore。ItwasSaturdaynightandthehousewasthrongedwithpeoplewhohadarrivedbytrainfromManchesterandLiverpool,withtheintentionofpassingtheSundayintheWelshtown。Itookteainanimmensediningorball—room,whichwas,however,socrowdedwithgueststhatitswallsliterallysweated。AmidstthemultitudeIfeltquitesolitary—mybelovedoneshaddepartedforLlangollen,andtherewasnoonewithwhomIcouldexchangeathoughtorawordofkindness。Iaddressedseveralindividuals,andineveryinstancerepented;fromsomeIgotnoanswers,fromotherswhatwasworsethannoanswersatall—ineverycountenancenearmesuspicion,brutality,orconceit,wasmostlegiblyimprinted—IwasnotamongstWelsh,butthescumofmanufacturingEngland。
Everybedinthehousewasengaged—thepeopleofthehouse,however,providedmeabedataplacewhichtheycalledthecottage,onthesideofahillintheoutskirtsofthetown。ThereIpassedthenightcomfortablyenough。AtabouteightinthemorningIarose,returnedtotheinn,breakfasted,anddepartedforBethGelertbywayofCaernarvon。
ItwasSunday,andIhadoriginallyintendedtopassthedayatBangor,andtoattenddivineservicetwiceattheCathedral,butI
foundmyselfsoveryuncomfortable,owingtothecrowdofinterlopers,thatIdeterminedtoproceedonmyjourneywithoutdelay;makingupmymind,however,toenterthefirstchurchI
shouldmeetinwhichservicewasbeingperformed;foritisreallynotgoodtotravelontheSundaywithoutgoingintoaplaceofworship。
Thedaywassunnyandfiercelyhot,asallthedayshadlatelybeen。InaboutanhourIarrivedatPortDynNorwig:itstoodontherightsideoftheroad。Thenameofthisplace,whichIhadheardfromthecoachmanwhodrovemyfamilyandmetoCaernarvonandLlanberisafewdaysbefore,hadexcitedmycuriositywithrespecttoit,asitsignifiesthePortoftheNorwayman,soInowturnedasidetoexamineit。\"Nodoubt,\"saidItomyself,\"theplacederivesitsnamefromthepiraticalDanesandNorsehavingresortedtoitintheoldtime。\"PortDynNorwigseemstoconsistofacreek,astaithe,andaboutahundredhouses:afewsmallvesselswerelyingatthestaithe。Istoodabouttenminutesuponitstaringabout,andthenfeelingratheroppressedbytheheatofthesun,Ibentmywaytoasmallhousewhichboreasign,andfromwhichaloudnoiseofvoicesproceeded。\"Haveyougoodale?\"saidIinEnglishtoagood—lookingbuxomdameofaboutforty,whomI
sawinthepassage。
Shelookedatmebutreturnednoanswer。
\"Oesgenochcwrwda?\"saidI。
\"Oes!\"sherepliedwithasmile,andopeningthedoorofaroomontheleft—handbademewalkin。
Ienteredtheroom;sixorsevenmen,seeminglysea—faringpeople,wereseateddrinkingandtalkingvociferouslyinWelsh。Theirconversationwasaboutthesea—serpent:somebelievedintheexistenceofsuchathing,othersdidnot。Afteralittletimeonesaid,\"Letusaskthisgentlemanforhisopinion。\"
\"Andwhatwouldbetheuseofaskinghim?\"saidanother,\"wehaveonlyCumraeg,andhehasonlySaesneg。\"
\"IhavealittlebrokenCumraeg,attheserviceofthisgoodcompany,\"saidI。\"WithrespecttothesnakeoftheseaIbegleavetosaythatIbelieveintheexistenceofsuchacreature;
andamsurprisedthatanypeopleinthesepartsshouldnotbelieveinit:why,thesea—serpenthasbeenseenintheseparts。\"
\"Whenwasthat,GwrBoneddig?\"saidoneofthecompany。
\"Aboutfiftyyearsago,\"saidI。\"OnceinOctober,intheyear1805,asasmallvesseloftheTraethwasupontheMenai,sailingveryslowly,theweatherbeingverycalm,thepeopleonboardsawastrangecreaturelikeanimmensewormswimmingafterthem。Itsoonovertookthem,climbedonboardthroughthetiller—hole,andcoileditselfonthedeckunderthemast—thepeopleatfirstweredreadfullyfrightened,buttakingcouragetheyattackeditwithanoaranddroveitoverboard;itfollowedthevesselforsometime,butabreezespringinguptheylostsightofit。\"
\"Andhowdidyoulearnthis?\"saidthelastwhohadaddressedme。
\"Ireadthestory,\"saidI,\"inapureWelshbookcalledtheGreal。\"
\"Inowrememberhearingthesamething,\"saidanoldman,\"whenI
wasaboy;ithadsliptoutofmymemory,butnowIrememberallaboutit。TheshipwascalledtheROBERTELLIS。Areyouoftheseparts,gentleman?\"
\"No,\"saidI,\"Iamnotoftheseparts。\"
\"ThenyouareofSouthWales—indeedyourWelshisverydifferentfromours。\"
\"IamnotofSouthWales,\"saidI,\"Iamtheseednotofthesea—
snakebutofthecoilingserpent,forsooneoftheoldWelshpoetscalledtheSaxons。\"
\"ButhowdidyoulearnWelsh?\"saidtheoldman。
\"Ilearneditbythegrammar,\"saidI,\"alongtimeago。\"
\"Ah,youlearntitbythegrammar,\"saidtheoldman;\"thataccountsforyourWelshbeingdifferentfromours。WedidnotlearnourWelshbythegrammar—yourWelshisdifferentfromours,andofcoursebetter,beingtheWelshofthegrammar。Ah,itisafinethingtobeagrammarian。\"
\"Yes,itisafinethingtobeagrammarian,\"criedtherestofthecompany,andIobservedthateverybodynowregardedmewithakindofrespect。
Ajugofalewhichthehostesshadbroughtmehadbeenstandingbeforemesometime。Inowtasteditandfounditverygood。
Whilstdespatchingit,IaskedvariousquestionsabouttheoldDanes,thereasonwhytheplacewascalledtheportoftheNorwegian,andaboutitstrade。ThegoodfolksknewnothingabouttheoldDanes,andaslittleastothereasonofitsbeingcalledtheportoftheNorwegian—buttheysaidthatbesidesthatnameitborethatofMelinHeli,orthemillofthesaltpool,andthatslateswereexportedfromthence,whichcamefromquarriescloseby。
Havingfinishedmyale,IbadethecompanyadieuandquittedPortDynNorwig,oneofthemostthoroughlyWelshplacesIhadseen,forduringthewholetimeIwasinit,IheardnowordsofEnglishuttered,exceptthetwoorthreespokenbymyself。InaboutanhourIreachedCaernarvon。
TheroadfromBangortoCaernarvonisverygoodandthesceneryinteresting—finehillsborderitontheleft,orsouth—east,andontherightatsomedistanceistheMenaiwithAngleseybeyondit。
NotfarfromCaernarvonasandbankcommences,extendingformilesuptheMenai,towardsBangor,anddividingthestraitintotwo。
IwenttotheCastleInnwhichfrontsthesquareormarket—place,andbeingshownintoaroomorderedsomebrandy—and—water,andsatdown。Twoyoungmenwereseatedintheroom。Ispoketothemandreceivedcivilanswers,atwhichIwasratherastonished,asI
foundbythetoneoftheirvoicesthattheywereEnglish。Theairofonewasfarsuperiortothatoftheother,andwithhimIwassooninconversation。Inthecourseofdiscourseheinformedmethatbeingamartyrtoill—healthhehadcomefromLondontoWales,hopingthatchangeofair,andexerciseontheWelshhills,wouldaffordhimrelief,andthathisfriendhadbeenkindenoughtoaccompanyhim。ThathehadbeenaboutthreeweeksinWales,hadtakenalltheexercisethathecould,butthathewasstillveryunwell,sleptlittleandhadnoappetite。Itoldhimnottobediscouraged,buttoproceedinthecoursewhichhehadadoptedtilltheendofsummer,bywhichtimeIthoughtitveryprobablethathewouldberestoredtohishealth,ashewasstillyoung。Atthesewordsofmineabeamofhopebrightenedhiscountenance,andhesaidthathehadnootherwishthantoregainhishealth,andthatifhedidheshouldbethehappiestofmen。TheintensewishofthepooryoungmanforhealthcausedmetothinkhowinsensibleI
hadhithertobeentothepossessionofthegreatestofallterrestrialblessings。Ihadalwayshadthehealthofanelephant,butIneverrememberedtohavebeensensibletothemagnitudeoftheblessingorintheslightestdegreegratefultoGodwhogaveit。IshudderedtothinkhowIshouldfeelifsuddenlydeprivedofmyhealth。Farworse,nodoubt,thanthatpoorinvalid。Hewasyoung,andinyouththereishope—butIwasnolongeryoung。Atlast,however,IthoughtthatifGodtookawaymyhealthHemightsofaraltermymindthatImightbehappyevenwithouthealth,ortheprospectofit;andthatreflectionmademequitecomfortable。
CHAPTERXLIV
NationalSchool—TheYoungPreacher—PontBettws—SpanishWords—TwoTongues,TwoFaces—TheElephant’sSnout—LlynCwellyn—
TheSnowdonRanger—MyHouse—CastellyCidwm—DescenttoBethGelert。
ITmightbeaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoonwhenIleftCaernarvonforBethGelert,distantaboutthirteenmiles。I
journeyedthroughabeautifulcountryofhillanddale,woodsandmeadows,thewholegildedbyabundanceofsunshine。AfterwalkingaboutanhourwithoutintermissionIreachedavillage,andaskedamanthenameofit。
\"Llan—something,\"hereplied。