\"Ifyouplease，sir。\"
\"Towhatplaceshallwego？\"
\"ShallwegotothePontyCyssylltau，sir？\"
\"Whatisthat？\"
\"Amightybridge，sir，whichcarriestheCamlasoveravalleyonitsback。\"
\"Good！letusgoandseethebridgeofthejunction，forthatI
thinkisthemeaninginSaxonofPontyCyssylltau。\"
Wesetout；myguideconductedmealongthebankoftheCamlasinthedirectionofRhiwabon，thatistowardstheeast。Onthewaywediscoursedonvarioussubjects，andunderstoodeachothertolerablywell。Iaskedifhehadbeenanythingbesidesaweaver。Hetoldmethatwhenaboyhekeptsheeponthemountain。\"Whydidyounotgoonkeepingsheep？\"said\"Iwouldratherkeepsheepthanweave。\"
\"Myparentswantedmeathome，sir，\"saidhe；\"andIwasnotsorrytogohome；Iearnedlittle，andlivedbadly。\"
\"Ashepherd，\"saidI，\"canearnmorethanfiveshillingsaweek。\"
\"Iwasneveraregularshepherd，sir，\"saidhe。\"But，sir，IwouldratherbeaweaverwithfiveshillingsaweekinLlangollen，thanashepherdwithfifteenonthemountain。Thelifeofashepherd，sir，isperhapsnotexactlywhatyouandsomeothergentlefolksthink。Theshepherdbearsmuchcoldandwet，sir，andheisverylonely；nosocietysavehissheepanddog。Then，sir，hehasnoprivileges。Imeangospelprivileges。HedoesnotlookforwardtoDyddSul，asadayofllawenydd，ofjoyandtriumph，astheweaverdoes；thatisifheisreligiouslydisposed。Theshepherdhasnochapel，sir，liketheweaver。Oh，sir，IsayagainthatIwouldratherbeaweaverinLlangollenwithfiveshillingsaweek，thanashepherdonthehillwithfifteen。\"
\"Doyoumeantosay，\"saidI，\"thatyoulivewithyourfamilyonfiveshillingsaweek？\"
\"No，sir。IfrequentlydolittlecommissionsbywhichIearnsomething。Then，sir，Ihavefriends，verygoodfriends。Agoodladyofourcongregationsentmethismorninghalf—a—poundofbutter。Thepeopleofourcongregationareverykindtoeachother，sir。\"
\"Thatismore，\"thoughtItomyself，\"thanthepeopleofmycongregationare；theyarealwayscuttingeachother’sthroats。\"I
nextaskedifhehadbeenmuchaboutWales。
\"Notmuch，sir。However，IhavebeentoPenCaerGybi，whichyoucallHolyHead，andtoBethGelert，sir。\"
\"Whattookyoutothoseplaces？\"
\"Iwassenttothoseplacesonbusiness，sir；asItoldyoubefore，sir，Isometimesexecutecommissions。AtBethGelertIstayedsometime。ItwasthereImarried，sir；mywifecomesfromaplacecalledDolGellynnearBethGelert。\"
\"Whatwashername？\"
\"HernamewasJones，sir。\"
\"What，beforeshemarried？\"
\"Yes，sir，beforeshemarried。Youneednotbesurprised，sir；
thereareplentyofthenameofJonesinWales。Thenameofmybrother’swife，beforeshemarried，wasalsoJones。\"
\"Yourbrotherisacleverman，\"saidI。
\"Yes，sir，foraCumroheisclebberenough。\"
\"ForaCumro？\"
\"Yes，sir，heisnotaSaxon，youknow。\"
\"AreSaxonsthensoveryclever？\"
\"Ohyes，sir；whosoclebber？TheclebberestpeopleinLlangollenareSaxons；thatis，atcarnalthings—foratspiritualthingsI
donotthinkthematallclebber。LookatMrA。，sir。\"
\"Whoishe？\"
\"Doyounotknowhim，sir？IthoughteverybodyknewMrA。HeisaSaxon，sir，andkeepstheinnontheroadalittlewaybelowwhereyoulive。HeistheclebberestmaninLlangollen，sir。Hecandoeverything。Heisagreatcook，andcanwashclothesbetterthananywoman。Oh，sir，forcarnalthings，whosoclebberasyourcountrymen！\"
Afterwalkingaboutfourmilesbythesideofthecanalweleftit，andbearingtotherightpresentlycametotheaqueduct，whichstrodeoveradeepandnarrowvalley，atthebottomofwhichrantheDee。\"ThisisthePontyCysswllt，sir，\"saidmyguide；\"it’sthefinestbridgeintheworld，andnowonder，ifwhatthecommonpeoplesaybetrue，namelythateverystonecostagoldensovereign。\"
Wewentalongit；theheightwasawful。Myguide，thoughhehadbeenamountainshepherd，confessedthathewassomewhatafraid。
\"Itgivesmethependro，sir，\"saidhe，\"tolookdown。\"Itoofeltsomewhatdizzy，asIlookedovertheparapetintotheglen。Thecanalwhichthismightybridgecarriesacrossthegulfisaboutninefeetwide，andoccupiesabouttwo—thirdsofthewidthofthebridgeandtheentirewesternside。Thefootwayistowardstheeast。FromaboutthemiddleofthebridgethereisafineviewoftheforgesontheCefnBachandalsoofahugehillnearitcalledtheCefnMawr。Wereachedthetermination，andpresentlycrossingthecanalbyalittlewoodenbridgewecametoavillage。Myguidethensaid，\"Ifyouplease，sir，wewillreturnbytheoldbridge，whichleadsacrosstheDeeinthebottomofthevale。\"Hethenledmebyaromanticroadtoabridgeonthewestoftheaqueduct，andfarbelow。Itseemedveryancient。\"Thisistheoldbridge，sir，\"
saidmyguide；\"itwasbuiltahundredyearsbeforethePontyCysswlltwasdreamtof。\"Wenowwalkedtothewest，inthedirectionofLlangollen，alongthebankoftheriver。Presentlywearrivedwheretheriver，aftermakingabend，formedapool。Itwasshadedbyloftytrees，andtoallappearancewasexceedinglydeep。Istoppedtolookatit，forIwasstruckwithitsgloomyhorror。\"Thatpool，sir，\"saidJohnJones，\"iscalledLlynyMeddwyn，thedrunkard’spool。Itiscalledso，sir，becauseadrunkenmanoncefellintoit，andwasdrowned。ThereisnodeeperpoolintheDee，sir，saveone，alittlebelowLlangollen，whichiscalledthepoolofCatherineLingo。Agirlofthatnamefellintoit，whilstgatheringsticksonthehighbankaboveit。Shewasdrowned，andthepoolwasnamedafterher。Ineverlookateitherwithoutshuddering，thinkinghowcertainlyIshouldbedrownedifI
fellin，forIcannotswim，sir。\"
\"Youshouldhavelearnttoswimwhenyouwereyoung，\"saidI，\"andtodivetoo。Iknowonewhohasbroughtupstonesfromthebottom，Idaresay，ofdeeperpoolsthaneither，buthewasaSaxon，andatcarnalthings，youknow，nonesoclebberastheSaxons。\"
Ifoundmyguideafirst—ratewalkerandagoodbotanist，knowingthenamesofalltheplantsandtreesinWelsh。BythetimewereturnedtoLlangollenIhadformedaveryhighopinionofhim，inwhichIwassubsequentlyconfirmedbywhatIsawofhimduringtheperiodofouracquaintance，whichwasofsomeduration。Hewasveryhonest，disinterested，andexceedinglygood—humoured。Itistrue，hehadhislittleskitsoccasionallyattheChurch，andshowedsomemarksofhostilitytothechurchcat，moreespeciallywhenhesawitmountedonmyshoulders；forthecreaturesoonbegantotakeliberties，andinlessthanaweekaftermyarrivalatthecottage，generallymountedonmyback，whenitsawmereadingorwriting，forthesakeofthewarmth。ButsettingasidethosesameskitsattheChurch，andthatdislikeofthechurchcat，venialtriflesafterall，andeasilytobeaccountedfor，onthescoreofhisreligiouseducation，Ifoundnothingtoblame，andmuchtoadmire，inJohnJones，theCalvinisticMethodistofLlangollen。
CHAPTERXIII
DivineService—LlangollenBells—IoloGoch—TheAbbey—Twmo’rNant—HolyWell—ThomasEdwardsSUNDAYarrived—aSundayofuncloudedsunshine。WeattendedDivineserviceatchurchinthemorning。Thecongregationwasverynumerous，buttoallappearanceconsistedalmostentirelyofEnglishvisitors，likeourselves。Thereweretwoofficiatingclergymen，fatherandson。Theybothsatinakindofoblongpulpitonthesouthernsideofthechurch，atalittledistancebelowthealtar。TheservicewasinEnglish，andtheeldergentlemanpreached；therewasgoodsingingandchanting。
AfterdinnerIsatinanarbourintheperllan，thinkingofmanythings，amongstothers，spiritual。Whilstthusengaged，thesoundofthechurchbellscallingpeopletoafternoonservicecameuponmyears。Ilistened，andthoughtIhadneverheardbellswithsosweetasound。Ihadheardtheminthemorning，butwithoutpayingmuchattentiontothem，butasInowsatintheumbrageousarbour，Iwasparticularlystruckwiththem。Ohhowsweetlytheirvoicemingledwiththelowrushoftheriver，atthebottomoftheperllan。IsubsequentlyfoundthatthebellsofLlangollenwerecelebratedfortheirsweetness。Theirmeritindeedhasevenbeenadmittedbyanenemy；forapoetoftheCalvinisticMethodistpersuasion，onewhocallshimselfEinionDu，inaverybeautifulode，commencingwith—
\"TangnefeddiLlangollen，\"
saysthatinnopartoftheworlddobellscallpeoplesosweetlytochurchasthoseofLlangollentown。
Intheevening，atabouthalf—pastsix，Iattendedserviceagain，butwithoutmyfamily。Thistimethecongregationwasnotnumerous，andwascomposedprincipallyofpoorpeople。TheserviceandsermonwerenowinWelsh，thesermonwaspreachedbytheyoungergentleman，andwasonthebuildingofthesecondtemple，and，asfarasIunderstoodit，appearedtometobeexceedinglygood。
OntheMondayevening，myselfandfamilytookawalktotheabbey。
Mywifeanddaughter，whoarefondofarchitectureandruins，wereveryanxioustoseetheoldplace。Itoowasanxiousenoughtoseeit，lessfromloveofruinsandancientarchitecture，thanfromknowingthatacertainillustriousbardwasburiedinitsprecincts，ofwhomperhapsashortaccountwillnotbeunacceptabletothereader。
Thisman，whosepoeticalappellationwasIoloGoch，butwhoserealnamewasLlwyd，wasofadistinguishedfamily，andLordofLlechryd。HewasbornandgenerallyresidedataplacecalledCoedyPantwn，intheupperpartoftheValeofClwyd。HewasawarmfriendandpartisanofOwenGlendower，withwhomhelived，atSycharth，forsomeyearsbeforethegreatWelshinsurrection，andwhomhesurvived，dyingatanextremeoldagebeneathhisownroof—
treeatCoedyPantwn。Hecomposedpiecesofgreatexcellenceonvarioussubjects；butthemostremarkableofhiscompositionsaredecidedlycertainonesconnectedwithOwenGlendower。AmongsttheseisoneinwhichhedescribestheWelshchieftain’smansionatSycharth，andhishospitablewayoflivingatthathisfavouriteresidence；andanotherinwhichhehailstheadventofthecomet，whichmadeitsappearanceinthemonthofMarch，fourteenhundredandtwo，asofgoodaugurytohisdarlinghero。
Itwasfromknowingthatthisdistinguishedmanlayburiedintheprecinctsoftheoldedifice，thatIfeltsoanxioustoseeit。
Afterwalkingabouttwomilesweperceiveditonourrighthand。
Theabbeyofthevaleofthecrossstandsinagreenmeadow，inacornernearthenorth—westendofthevalleyofLlangollen。Thevaleorglen，inwhichtheabbeystands，takesitsnamefromacertainancientpillarorcross，calledthepillarofEliseg，andwhichisbelievedtohavebeenraisedoverthebodyofanancientBritishchieftainofthatname，whoperishedinbattleagainsttheSaxons，aboutthemiddleofthetenthcentury。InthePapisttimestheabbeywasaplaceofgreatpseudo—sanctity，wealthandconsequence。Theterritorybelongingtoitwasveryextensive，comprising，amongstotherdistricts，thevaleofLlangollenandthemountainregiontothenorthofit，calledtheEglwysigRocks，whichregionderiveditsnameEglwysig，orecclesiastical，fromthecircumstanceofitspertainingtotheabbeyofthevaleofthecross。
Wefirstreachedthatpartofthebuildingwhichhadoncebeenthechurch，havingpreviouslytopassthroughafarmyard，inwhichwasabundanceofdirtandmire。
Thechurchfrontsthewestandcontainstheremainsofanoblewindow，beneathwhichisagate，whichwefoundlocked。Passingonwecametothatpartwherethemonkshadlived，butwhichnowservedasafarmhouse；anopendoorwayexhibitedtousanancientgloomyhall，wherewassomecuriousold—fashionedfurniture，particularlyanancientrack，inwhichstoodagoodlyrangeofpewtertrenchers。Arespectabledamekindlywelcomedusandinvitedustositdown。Weenteredintoconversationwithher，andaskedhername，whichshesaidwasEvans。IspokesomeWelshtoher，whichpleasedher。ShesaidthatWelshpeopleatthepresentdayweresofulloffineairsthattheywereabovespeakingtheoldlanguage—butthatsuchwasnotthecaseformerly，andthatshehadknownaMrsPrice，whowashousekeepertotheCountessofMornington，wholivedinLondonupwardsoffortyyears，andattheendofthattimepridedherselfuponspeakingasgoodWelshasshedidwhenagirl。Ispoketoherabouttheabbey，andaskedifshehadeverheardofIoloGoch。Sheinquiredwhohewas。Itoldherhewasagreatbard，andwasburiedintheabbey。Shesaidshehadneverheardofhim，butthatshecouldshowmetheportraitofagreatpoet，andgoingaway，presentlyreturnedwithaprintinaframe。
\"There，\"saidshe，\"istheportraitofTwmo’rNant，generallycalledtheWelshShakespeare。\"
Ilookedatit。TheWelshShakespearewasrepresentedsittingatatablewithapeninhishand；acottage—latticedwindowwasbehindhim，onhislefthand；ashelfwithplates，andtrenchersbehindhim，onhisright。Hisfeatureswererude，butfullofwild，strangeexpression；belowthepicturewasthefollowingcouplet：—
\"LlunGwrywllawngwirAwen；
YBydalanwoddo’iBen。\"
\"DidyoueverhearofTwmo’rNant？\"saidtheolddame。
\"Ineverheardofhimbywordofmouth，\"saidI；\"butIknowallabouthim—IhavereadhislifeinWelsh，writtenbyhimself，andacuriouslifeitis。HisnamewasThomasEdwards，buthegenerallycalledhimselfTwmo’rNant，orTomoftheDingle，becausehewasborninadingle，ataplacecalledPenPorchell，inthevaleofClwyd—which，bythebye，wasontheestatewhichoncebelongedtoIoloGoch，thepoetIwasspeakingtoyouaboutjustnow。Tomwasacarterbytrade，butoncekeptatoll—barinSouthWales，which，however，hewasobligedtoleaveattheendoftwoyears，owingtotheannoyancewhichheexperiencedfromghostsandgoblins，andunearthlythings，particularlyphantomhearses，whichusedtopassthroughhisgateatmidnightwithoutpaying，whenthegatewasshut。\"
\"Ah，\"saidthedame，\"youknowmoreaboutTomo’rNantthanIdo；
andwashenotagreatpoet？\"
\"Idaresayhewas，\"saidI，\"forthepieceswhichhewrote，andwhichhecalledInterludes，hadagreatrun，andhegotagreatdealofmoneybythem，butIshouldsaythelinesbeneaththeportraitaremoreapplicabletotherealShakespearethantohim。\"
\"Whatdothelinesmean？\"saidtheoldlady；\"theyareWelsh，I
know，buttheyarefarbeyondmyunderstanding。\"
\"Theymaybethustranslated，\"saidI：
\"GodinhisheadtheMuseinstill’d，Andfromhisheadtheworldhefill’d。\"
\"Thankyou，sir，\"saidtheoldlady。\"Ineverfoundanyonebeforewhocouldtranslatethem。\"ShethensaidshewouldshowmesomeEnglishlineswrittenonthedaughterofafriendofherswhowaslatelydead，andputsomeprintedlinesinaframeintomyhand。
TheywereanElegytoMary，andwereverybeautiful，Ireadthemaloud，andwhenIhadfinishedshethankedmeandsaidshehadnodoubtthatifIpleasedIcouldputthemintoWelsh—shethensighedandwipedhereyes。
Onourenquiringwhetherwecouldseetheinterioroftheabbeyshesaidwecould，andthatifwerangabellatthegateawomanwouldcometous，whowasinthehabitofshowingtheplace。Wethengotupandbadeherfarewell—butshebeggedthatwewouldstayandtastethedwrsantaiddoftheholywell。
\"Whatholywellisthat？\"saidI。
\"Awell，\"saidshe，\"bytheroad’sside，whichinthetimeofthepopeswassaidtoperformwonderfulcures。\"
\"Letustasteitbyallmeans，\"saidI；whereuponshewentout，andpresentlyreturnedwithatrayonwhichwereajugandtumbler，thejugfilledwiththewateroftheholywell；wedranksomeofthedwrsantaidd，whichtastedlikeanyotherwater，andthenaftershakingherbythehand，wewenttothegate，andrangatthebell。
Presentlyawomanmadeherappearanceatthegate—shewasgenteellydrest，aboutthemiddleage，rathertall，andbearinginhercountenancethetracesofbeauty。Whenwetoldhertheobjectofourcomingsheadmittedus，andafterlockingthegateconductedusintothechurch。Itwasroofless，andhadnothingremarkableaboutit，savethewesternwindow，whichwehadseenfromwithout。
Ourattendantpointedouttoussometombs，andtoldusthenamesofcertaingreatpeoplewhosedusttheycontained。\"CanyoutelluswhereIoloGochliesinterred？\"saidI。
\"No，\"saidshe；\"indeedIneverheardofsuchaperson。\"
\"HewasthebardofOwenGlendower，\"saidI，\"andassistedhiscausewonderfullybythefieryodes，inwhichheincitedtheWelshtoriseagainsttheEnglish。\"
\"Indeed！\"saidshe；\"well，IamsorrytosaythatIneverheardofhim。\"
\"AreyouWelsh？\"saidI。
\"Iam，\"shereplied。
\"DidyoueverhearofThomasEdwards？\"
\"Oh，yes，\"saidshe；\"Ihavefrequentlyheardofhim。\"
\"Howodd，\"saidI，\"thatthenameofagreatpoetshouldbeunknownintheveryplacewhereheisburied，whilstthatofonecertainlynothissuperior，shouldbewellknowninthatsameplace，thoughheisnotburiedthere。\"
\"Perhaps，\"saidshe，\"thereasonisthatthepoet，whomyoumentioned，wroteintheoldmeasuresandlanguagewhichfewpeoplenowunderstand，whilstThomasEdwardswroteincommonverseandinthelanguageofthepresentday。\"
\"Idaresayitisso，\"saidI。
Fromthechurchsheledustootherpartsoftheruin—atfirstshehadspokentousrathercrossandloftily，butshenowbecamekindandcommunicative。Shesaidthatsheresidedneartheruins，whichshewaspermittedtoshow，thatshelivedalone，andwishedtobealone；therewassomethingsingularabouther，andIbelievethatshehadahistoryofherown。Aftershowingustheruinssheconductedustoacottageinwhichshelived；itstoodbehindtheruinsbyafish—pond，inabeautifulandromanticplaceenough；shesaidthatinthewintershewentaway，buttowhatplaceshedidnotsay。Sheaskeduswhetherwecamewalking，andonourtellingherthatwedid，shesaidthatshewouldpointouttousanearwayhome。Shethenpointedtoapathupahill，tellinguswemustfollowit。Aftermakingherapresentwebadeherfarewell，andpassingthroughameadowcrossedabrookbyarusticbridge，formedofthestemofatree，andascendingthehillbythepathwhichshehadpointedout，wewentthroughacornfieldortwoonitstop，andatlastfoundourselvesontheLlangollenroad，afteramostbeautifulwalk。
CHAPTERXIV
ExpeditiontoRuthyn—TheColumn—SlateQuarries—TheGwyddelod—NocturnalAdventure。
NOTHINGworthyofcommemorationtookplaceduringthetwofollowingdays，savethatmyselfandfamilytookaneveningwalkontheWednesdayupthesideoftheBerwyn，forthepurposeofbotanizing，inwhichwewereattendedbyJohnJones。There，amongstotherplants，wefoundacuriousmosswhichourgoodfriendsaidwascalledinWelsh，CornCarw，ordeer’shorn，andwhichhesaidthedeerwereveryfondof。OntheThursdayheandIstartedonanexpeditiononfoottoRuthyn，distantaboutfourteenmiles，proposingtoreturnintheevening。
ThetownandcastleofRuthynpossessedgreatinterestformefrombeingconnectedwiththeaffairsofOwenGlendower。ItwasatRuthynthatthefirstandnottheleastremarkablesceneoftheWelshinsurrectiontookplacebyOwenmakinghisappearanceatthefairheldthereinfourteenhundred，plunderingtheEnglishwhohadcomewiththeirgoods，slayingmanyofthem，sackingthetownandconcludinghisday’sworkbyfiringit；anditwasatthecastleofRuthynthatLordGreydwelt，aminionofHenrytheFourthandGlendower’sdeadliestenemy，andwhowastheprincipalcauseofthechieftain’senteringintorebellion，having，inthehopeofobtaininghisestatesinthevaleofClwyd，poisonedthemindofHarryagainsthim，whoproclaimedhimatraitor，beforehehadcommittedanyactoftreason，andconfiscatedhisestates，bestowingthatpartofthemuponhisfavourite，whichthelatterwasdesirousofobtaining。
Westartedonourexpeditionataboutseveno’clockofabrilliantmorning。Wepassedbytheabbeyandpresentlycametoasmallfountainwithalittlestoneedifice，withasharptopaboveit。
\"Thatistheholywell，\"saidmyguide：\"LlaweriawnobarchynyramseryrPabyddionyroeddi’rfynnonhwn—muchrespectinthetimesofthePapiststherewastothisfountain。\"
\"Iheardofit，\"saidI，\"andtastedofitswatertheothereveningattheabbey；\"shortlyafterwesawatallstonestandinginafieldonourrighthandataboutahundredyards’distancefromtheroad。\"ThatisthepillarofEliseg，sir，\"saidmyguide。\"Letusgoandseeit，\"saidI。Wesoonreachedthestone。Itisafineuprightcolumnaboutsevenfeethigh，andstandsonaquadratebase。\"Sir，\"saidmyguide，\"adeadkingliesburiedbeneaththisstone。Hewasamightymanofvalourandfoundedtheabbey。HewascalledEliseg。\"\"PerhapsEllis，\"saidI，\"andifhisnamewasEllisthestonewasveryproperlycalledColofnEliseg，inSaxontheEllisiancolumn。\"Theviewfromthecolumnisverybeautiful，belowonthesouth—eastisthevenerableabbey，slumberinginitsgreenmeadow。Beyonditrunsastream，descendingfromthetopofaglen，atthebottomofwhichtheoldpileissituated；beyondthestreamisaloftyhill。Theglenonthenorthisboundedbyanoblemountain，coveredwithwood。StruckwithitsbeautyI
inquireditsname。\"MoelEglwysig，sir，\"saidmyguide。\"TheMoeloftheChurch，\"saidI。\"Thatishardlyagoodnameforit，forthehillisnotbald（moel）。\"\"True，sir，\"saidJohnJones。\"Atpresentitsnameisgoodfornothing，butestalom（ofold）beforethehillwasplantedwithtreesitsnamewasgoodenough。Ourfatherswerenotfoolswhentheynamedtheirhills。\"\"Idaresaynot，\"saidI，\"norinmanyotherthingswhichtheydid，forwhichwelaughatthem，becausewedonotknowthereasonstheyhadfordoingthem。\"Weregainedtheroad；theroadtendedtothenorthupasteepascent。IaskedJohnJonesthenameofabeautifulvillage，whichlayfarawayonourright，overtheglen，andnearitstop。\"Pentrefydwr，sir\"（thevillageofthewater）。Itiscalledthevillageofthewater，becausetheriverbelowcomesdownthroughpartofit。Inextaskedthenameofthehillupwhichweweregoing，andhetoldmeAlltBwlch；thatis，thehighplaceofthehollowroad。
Thisbwlch，orhollowway，wasaregularpass，whichputmewonderfullyinmindofthepassesofSpain。Ittookusalongtimetogettothetop。Afterrestingaminuteonthesummitwebegantodescend。Myguidepointedouttomesomeslate—works，atsomedistanceonourleft。\"Thereisagreatdealofworkgoingonthere，sir，\"saidhe：\"alltheslatesthatyouseedescendingthecanalatLlangollencamefromthere。\"Thenextmomentweheardablast，andthenathunderingsound：\"Llaiscraigynsyrthiaw；thevoiceoftherockinfalling，sir，\"saidJohnJones；\"blastingisdangerousandawfulwork。\"Wereachedthebottomofthedescent，andproceededfortwoorthreemilesupanddownaroughandnarrowroad；Ithenturnedroundandlookedatthehillswhichwehadpassedover。Theylookedbulkyandhuge。
Wecontinuedourway，andpresentlysawmarksofafireinsomegrassbythesideoftheroad。\"HavetheGipsiaidbeenthere？\"
saidItomyguide。
\"Hardly，sir；IshouldratherthinkthattheGwyddelaid（Irish）
havebeencampingtherelately。\"
\"TheGwyddeliad？\"
\"Yes，sir，thevagabondGwyddeliad，whoatpresentinfestthesepartsmuch，anddomuchmoreharmthantheGipsiaideverdid。\"
\"WhatdoyoumeanbytheGipsiaid？\"
\"Dark，handsomepeople，sir，whooccasionallyusedtocomeaboutinvansandcarts，themenbuyingandsellinghorses，andsometimestinkering，whilstthewomentoldfortunes。\"
\"Andtheyhaveceasedtocomeabout？\"
\"Nearlyso，sir；IbelievetheyhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelod。\"
\"WhatkindofpeoplearetheseGwyddelod？
\"Savage，brutishpeople，sir；ingeneralwithoutshoesandstockings，withcoarsefeaturesandheadsofhairlikemops。\"
\"Howdotheylive？\"
\"Thementinkeralittle，sir，butmorefrequentlyplunder。Thewomentellfortunes，andstealwhenevertheycan。\"
\"TheylivesomethingliketheGipsiaid。\"
\"Something，sir；butthehenGipsiaidweregentlefolksincomparison。\"
\"YouthinktheGipsiaidhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelians？\"
\"Ido，sir；theGwyddelodmadetheirappearanceinthesepartsabouttwentyyearsago，andsincethentheGipsiaidhavebeenrarelyseen。\"
\"AretheseGwyddelodpoor？\"
\"Bynomeans，sir；theymakelargesumsbyplunderingandothermeans，withwhich，’tissaid，theyretireatlasttotheirowncountryorAmerica，wheretheybuylandandsettledown。\"