第6章
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  Thestoresarepoorerhere;thepassengerslessgay。Clothesready-made,andmeatready-cooked,aretobeboughtintheseparts;

  andthelivelywhirlofcarriagesisexchangedforthedeeprumbleofcartsandwaggons。Thesesignswhicharesoplentiful,inshapelikeriverbuoys,orsmallballoons,hoistedbycordstopoles,anddanglingthere,announce,asyoumayseebylookingup,\'OYSTERSIN

  EVERYSTYLE。\'Theytemptthehungrymostatnight,forthendullcandlesglimmeringinside,illuminatethesedaintywords,andmakethemouthsofidlerswater,astheyreadandlinger。

  Whatisthisdismal-frontedpileofbastardEgyptian,likeanenchanter\'spalaceinamelodrama!-afamousprison,calledTheTombs。Shallwegoin?

  So。Along,narrow,loftybuilding,stove-heatedasusual,withfourgalleries,oneabovetheother,goingroundit,andcommunicatingbystairs。Betweenthetwosidesofeachgallery,andinitscentre,abridge,forthegreaterconvenienceofcrossing。Oneachofthesebridgessitsaman:dozingorreading,ortalkingtoanidlecompanion。Oneachtier,aretwooppositerowsofsmallirondoors。Theylooklikefurnace-doors,butarecoldandblack,asthoughthefireswithinhadallgoneout。Sometwoorthreeareopen,andwomen,withdroopingheadsbentdown,aretalkingtotheinmates。Thewholeislightedbyaskylight,butitisfastclosed;andfromtherooftheredangle,limpanddrooping,twouselesswindsails。

  Amanwithkeysappears,toshowusround。Agood-lookingfellow,and,inhisway,civilandobliging。

  \'Arethoseblackdoorsthecells?\'

  \'Yes。\'

  \'Aretheyallfull?\'

  \'Well,they\'reprettynighfull,andthat\'safact,andnotwowaysaboutit。\'

  \'Thoseatthebottomareunwholesome,surely?\'

  \'Why,weDOonlyputcolouredpeoplein\'em。That\'sthetruth。\'

  \'Whendotheprisonerstakeexercise?\'

  \'Well,theydowithoutitprettymuch。\'

  \'Dotheyneverwalkintheyard?\'

  \'Considerableseldom。\'

  \'Sometimes,Isuppose?\'

  \'Well,it\'sraretheydo。Theykeepprettybrightwithoutit。\'

  \'Butsupposeamanwerehereforatwelvemonth。Iknowthisisonlyaprisonforcriminalswhoarechargedwithgraveoffences,whiletheyareawaitingtheirtrial,orunderremand,butthelawhereaffordscriminalsmanymeansofdelay。Whatwithmotionsfornewtrials,andinarrestofjudgment,andwhatnot,aprisonermightbeherefortwelvemonths,Itakeit,mighthenot?\'

  \'Well,Iguesshemight。\'

  \'Doyoumeantosaythatinallthattimehewouldnevercomeoutatthatlittleirondoor,forexercise?\'

  \'Hemightwalksome,perhaps-notmuch。\'

  \'Willyouopenoneofthedoors?\'

  \'All,ifyoulike。\'

  Thefasteningsjarandrattle,andoneofthedoorsturnsslowlyonitshinges。Letuslookin。Asmallbarecell,intowhichthelightentersthroughahighchinkinthewall。Thereisarudemeansofwashing,atable,andabedstead。Uponthelatter,sitsamanofsixty;reading。Helooksupforamoment;givesanimpatientdoggedshake;andfixeshiseyesuponhisbookagain。Aswewithdrawourheads,thedoorclosesonhim,andisfastenedasbefore。Thismanhasmurderedhiswife,andwillprobablybehanged。

  \'Howlonghashebeenhere?\'

  \'Amonth。\'

  \'Whenwillhebetried?\'

  \'Nextterm。\'

  \'Whenisthat?\'

  \'Nextmonth。\'

  \'InEngland,ifamanbeundersentenceofdeath,evenhehasairandexerciseatcertainperiodsoftheday。\'

  \'Possible?\'

  Withwhatstupendousanduntranslatablecoolnesshesaysthis,andhowlounginglyheleadsontothewomen\'sside:making,ashegoes,akindofironcastanetofthekeyandthestair-rail!

  Eachcelldooronthissidehasasquareapertureinit。Someofthewomenpeepanxiouslythroughitatthesoundoffootsteps;

  othersshrinkawayinshame-Forwhatoffencecanthatlonelychild,oftenortwelveyearsold,beshutuphere?Oh!thatboy?

  Heisthesonoftheprisonerwesawjustnow;isawitnessagainsthisfather;andisdetainedhereforsafekeeping,untilthetrial;

  that\'sall。

  Butitisadreadfulplaceforthechildtopassthelongdaysandnightsin。Thisisratherhardtreatmentforayoungwitness,isitnot?-Whatsaysourconductor?

  \'Well,itan\'taveryrowdylife,andTHAT\'Safact!\'

  Againheclinkshismetalcastanet,andleadsusleisurelyaway。I

  haveaquestiontoaskhimaswego。

  \'Pray,whydotheycallthisplaceTheTombs?\'

  \'Well,it\'sthecantname。\'

  \'Iknowitis。Why?\'

  \'Somesuicideshappenedhere,whenitwasfirstbuilt。Iexpectitcomeaboutfromthat。\'

  \'Isawjustnow,thatthatman\'sclotheswerescatteredaboutthefloorofhiscell。Don\'tyouobligetheprisonerstobeorderly,andputsuchthingsaway?\'

  \'Whereshouldtheyput\'em?\'

  \'Notonthegroundsurely。Whatdoyousaytohangingthemup?\'

  Hestopsandlooksroundtoemphasisehisanswer:

  \'Why,Isaythat\'sjustit。WhentheyhadhookstheyWOULDhangthemselves,sothey\'retakenoutofeverycell,andthere\'sonlythemarksleftwheretheyusedtobe!\'

  Theprison-yardinwhichhepausesnow,hasbeenthesceneofterribleperformances。Intothisnarrow,grave-likeplace,menarebroughtouttodie。Thewretchedcreaturestandsbeneaththegibbetontheground;theropeabouthisneck;andwhenthesignisgiven,aweightatitsotherendcomesrunningdown,andswingshimupintotheair-acorpse。

  Thelawrequiresthattherebepresentatthisdismalspectacle,thejudge,thejury,andcitizenstotheamountoftwenty-five。

  Fromthecommunityitishidden。Tothedissoluteandbad,thethingremainsafrightfulmystery。Betweenthecriminalandthem,theprison-wallisinterposedasathickgloomyveil。Itisthecurtaintohisbedofdeath,hiswinding-sheet,andgrave。Fromhimitshutsoutlife,andallthemotivestounrepentinghardihoodinthatlasthour,whichitsmeresightandpresenceisoftenall-

  sufficienttosustain。Therearenoboldeyestomakehimbold;noruffianstoupholdaruffian\'snamebefore。Allbeyondthepitilessstonewall,isunknownspace。

  Letusgoforthagainintothecheerfulstreets。

  OncemoreinBroadway!Herearethesameladiesinbrightcolours,walkingtoandfro,inpairsandsingly;yondertheverysamelightblueparasolwhichpassedandrepassedthehotel-windowtwentytimeswhileweweresittingthere。Wearegoingtocrosshere。

  Takecareofthepigs。Twoportlysowsaretrottingupbehindthiscarriage,andaselectpartyofhalf-a-dozengentlemenhogshavejustnowturnedthecorner。

  Hereisasolitaryswinelounginghomewardbyhimself。Hehasonlyoneear;havingpartedwiththeothertovagrant-dogsinthecourseofhiscityrambles。Buthegetsonverywellwithoutit;andleadsaroving,gentlemanly,vagabondkindoflife,somewhatansweringtothatofourclub-menathome。Heleaveshislodgingseverymorningatacertainhour,throwshimselfuponthetown,getsthroughhisdayinsomemannerquitesatisfactorytohimself,andregularlyappearsatthedoorofhisownhouseagainatnight,likethemysteriousmasterofGilBlas。Heisafree-and-easy,careless,indifferentkindofpig,havingaverylargeacquaintanceamongotherpigsofthesamecharacter,whomheratherknowsbysightthanconversation,asheseldomtroubleshimselftostopandexchangecivilities,butgoesgruntingdownthekennel,turningupthenewsandsmall-talkofthecityintheshapeofcabbage-stalksandoffal,andbearingnotailsbuthisown:whichisaveryshortone,forhisoldenemies,thedogs,havebeenatthattoo,andhavelefthimhardlyenoughtoswearby。Heisineveryrespectarepublicanpig,goingwhereverhepleases,andminglingwiththebestsociety,onanequal,ifnotsuperiorfooting,foreveryonemakeswaywhenheappears,andthehaughtiestgivehimthewall,ifhepreferit。Heisagreatphilosopher,andseldommoved,unlessbythedogsbeforementioned。Sometimes,indeed,youmayseehissmalleyetwinklingonaslaughteredfriend,whosecarcasegarnishesabutcher\'sdoor-post,buthegruntsout\'Suchislife:

  allfleshispork!\'burieshisnoseinthemireagain,andwaddlesdownthegutter:comfortinghimselfwiththereflectionthatthereisonesnoutthelesstoanticipatestraycabbage-stalks,atanyrate。

  Theyarethecityscavengers,thesepigs。Uglybrutestheyare;

  having,forthemostpart,scantybrownbacks,likethelidsofoldhorsehairtrunks:spottedwithunwholesomeblackblotches。Theyhavelong,gauntlegs,too,andsuchpeakedsnouts,thatifoneofthemcouldbepersuadedtositforhisprofile,nobodywouldrecogniseitforapig\'slikeness。Theyareneverattendedupon,orfed,ordriven,orcaught,butarethrownupontheirownresourcesinearlylife,andbecomepreternaturallyknowinginconsequence。Everypigknowswherehelives,muchbetterthananybodycouldtellhim。Atthishour,justaseveningisclosingin,youwillseethemroamingtowardsbedbyscores,eatingtheirwaytothelast。Occasionally,someyouthamongthemwhohasover-

  eatenhimself,orhasbeenworriedbydogs,trotsshrinkinglyhomeward,likeaprodigalson:butthisisararecase:perfectself-possessionandself-reliance,andimmovablecomposure,beingtheirforemostattributes。

  Thestreetsandshopsarelightednow;andastheeyetravelsdownthelongthoroughfare,dottedwithbrightjetsofgas,itisremindedofOxfordStreet,orPiccadilly。Hereandthereaflightofbroadstonecellar-stepsappears,andapaintedlampdirectsyoutotheBowlingSaloon,orTen-Pinalley;Ten-Pinsbeingagameofmingledchanceandskill,inventedwhenthelegislaturepassedanactforbiddingNine-Pins。Atotherdownwardflightsofsteps,areotherlamps,markingthewhereaboutsofoyster-cellars-pleasantretreats,sayI:notonlybyreasonoftheirwonderfulcookeryofoysters,prettynighaslargeascheese-platesorforthydearsake,heartiestofGreekProfessors!,butbecauseofallkindsofcatersoffish,orflesh,orfowl,intheselatitudes,theswallowersofoystersalonearenotgregarious;butsubduingthemselves,asitwere,tothenatureofwhattheyworkin,andcopyingthecoynessofthethingtheyeat,dositapartincurtainedboxes,andconsortbytwos,notbytwohundreds。

  Buthowquietthestreetsare!Aretherenoitinerantbands;nowindorstringedinstruments?No,notone。Byday,aretherenoPunches,Fantoccini,Dancing-dogs,Jugglers,Conjurers,Orchestrinas,orevenBarrel-organs?No,notone。Yes,Irememberone。Onebarrel-organandadancing-monkey-sportivebynature,butfastfadingintoadull,lumpishmonkey,oftheUtilitarianschool。Beyondthat,nothinglively;no,notsomuchasawhitemouseinatwirlingcage。

  Aretherenoamusements?Yes。Thereisalecture-roomacrosstheway,fromwhichthatglareoflightproceeds,andtheremaybeeveningservicefortheladiesthriceaweek,oroftener。Fortheyounggentlemen,thereisthecounting-house,thestore,thebar-

  room:thelatter,asyoumayseethroughthesewindows,prettyfull。Hark!totheclinkingsoundofhammersbreakinglumpsofice,andtothecoolgurglingofthepoundedbits,as,intheprocessofmixing,theyarepouredfromglasstoglass!Noamusements?Whatarethesesuckersofcigarsandswallowersofstrongdrinks,whosehatsandlegsweseeineverypossiblevarietyoftwist,doing,butamusingthemselves?Whatarethefiftynewspapers,whichthoseprecociousurchinsarebawlingdownthestreet,andwhicharekeptfiledwithin,whataretheybutamusements?Notvapid,waterishamusements,butgoodstrongstuff;

  dealinginroundabuseandblackguardnames;pullingofftheroofsofprivatehouses,astheHaltingDevildidinSpain;pimpingandpanderingforalldegreesofvicioustaste,andgorgingwithcoinedliesthemostvoraciousmaw;imputingtoeverymaninpubliclifethecoarsestandthevilestmotives;scaringawayfromthestabbedandprostratebody-politic,everySamaritanofclearconscienceandgooddeeds;andsettingon,withyellandwhistleandtheclappingoffoulhands,thevilestverminandworstbirdsofprey-Noamusements!

  Letusgoonagain;andpassingthiswildernessofanhotelwithstoresaboutitsbase,likesomeContinentaltheatre,ortheLondonOperaHouseshornofitscolonnade,plungeintotheFivePoints。

  Butitisneedful,first,thatwetakeasourescortthesetwoheadsofthepolice,whomyouwouldknowforsharpandwell-trainedofficersifyoumetthemintheGreatDesert。Sotrueitis,thatcertainpursuits,wherevercarriedon,willstampmenwiththesamecharacter。Thesetwomighthavebeenbegotten,born,andbred,inBowStreet。

  Wehaveseennobeggarsinthestreetsbynightorday;butofotherkindsofstrollers,plenty。Poverty,wretchedness,andvice,arerifeenoughwherewearegoingnow。

  Thisistheplace:thesenarrowways,divergingtotherightandleft,andreekingeverywherewithdirtandfilth。Suchlivesasareledhere,bearthesamefruitshereaselsewhere。Thecoarseandbloatedfacesatthedoors,havecounterpartsathome,andallthewideworldover。Debaucheryhasmadetheveryhousesprematurelyold。Seehowtherottenbeamsaretumblingdown,andhowthepatchedandbrokenwindowsseemtoscowldimly,likeeyesthathavebeenhurtindrunkenfrays。Manyofthosepigslivehere。Dotheyeverwonderwhytheirmasterswalkuprightinlieuofgoingonall-fours?andwhytheytalkinsteadofgrunting?

  Sofar,nearlyeveryhouseisalowtavern;andonthebar-roomwalls,arecolouredprintsofWashington,andQueenVictoriaofEngland,andtheAmericanEagle。Amongthepigeon-holesthatholdthebottles,arepiecesofplate-glassandcolouredpaper,forthereis,insomesort,atastefordecoration,evenhere。Andasseamenfrequentthesehaunts,therearemaritimepicturesbythedozen:ofpartingsbetweensailorsandtheirlady-loves,portraitsofWilliam,oftheballad,andhisBlack-EyedSusan;ofWillWatch,theBoldSmuggler;ofPaulJonesthePirate,andthelike:onwhichthepaintedeyesofQueenVictoria,andofWashingtontoboot,restinasstrangecompanionship,asonmostofthescenesthatareenactedintheirwonderingpresence。

  Whatplaceisthis,towhichthesqualidstreetconductsus?A

  kindofsquareofleproushouses,someofwhichareattainableonlybycrazywoodenstairswithout。Whatliesbeyondthistotteringflightofsteps,thatcreakbeneathourtread?-amiserableroom,lightedbyonedimcandle,anddestituteofallcomfort,savethatwhichmaybehiddeninawretchedbed。Besideit,sitsaman:hiselbowsonhisknees:hisforeheadhiddeninhishands。\'Whatailsthatman?\'askstheforemostofficer。\'Fever,\'hesullenlyreplies,withoutlookingup。Conceivethefanciesofafeverishbrain,insuchaplaceasthis!

  Ascendthesepitch-darkstairs,heedfulofafalsefootingonthetremblingboards,andgropeyourwaywithmeintothiswolfishden,whereneitherrayoflightnorbreathofair,appearstocome。A

  negrolad,startledfromhissleepbytheofficer\'svoice-heknowsitwell-butcomfortedbyhisassurancethathehasnotcomeonbusiness,officiouslybestirshimselftolightacandle。Thematchflickersforamoment,andshowsgreatmoundsofdustyragsupontheground;thendiesawayandleavesadenserdarknessthanbefore,iftherecanbedegreesinsuchextremes。Hestumblesdownthestairsandpresentlycomesback,shadingaflaringtaperwithhishand。Thenthemoundsofragsareseentobeastir,andriseslowlyup,andtheflooriscoveredwithheapsofnegrowomen,wakingfromtheirsleep:theirwhiteteethchattering,andtheirbrighteyesglisteningandwinkingonallsideswithsurpriseandfear,likethecountlessrepetitionofoneastonishedAfricanfaceinsomestrangemirror。

  Mountuptheseotherstairswithnolesscautiontherearetrapsandpitfallshere,forthosewhoarenotsowellescortedasourselvesintothehousetop;wherethebarebeamsandraftersmeetoverhead,andcalmnightlooksdownthroughthecrevicesintheroof。Openthedoorofoneofthesecrampedhutchesfullofsleepingnegroes。Pah!Theyhaveacharcoalfirewithin;thereisasmellofsingeingclothes,orflesh,soclosetheygatherroundthebrazier;andvapoursissueforththatblindandsuffocate。

  Fromeverycorner,asyouglanceaboutyouinthesedarkretreats,somefigurecrawlshalf-awakened,asifthejudgment-hourwerenearathand,andeveryobscenegraveweregivingupitsdead。Wheredogswouldhowltolie,women,andmen,andboysslinkofftosleep,forcingthedislodgedratstomoveawayinquestofbetterlodgings。

  Heretooarelanesandalleys,pavedwithmudknee-deep,undergroundchambers,wheretheydanceandgame;thewallsbedeckedwithroughdesignsofships,andforts,andflags,andAmericaneaglesoutofnumber:ruinedhouses,opentothestreet,whence,throughwidegapsinthewalls,otherruinsloomupontheeye,asthoughtheworldofviceandmiseryhadnothingelsetoshow:

  hideoustenementswhichtaketheirnamefromrobberyandmurder:

  allthatisloathsome,drooping,anddecayedishere。

  Ourleaderhashishanduponthelatchof\'Almack\'s,\'andcallstousfromthebottomofthesteps;fortheassembly-roomoftheFivePointfashionablesisapproachedbyadescent。Shallwegoin?Itisbutamoment。

  Heyday!thelandladyofAlmack\'sthrives!Abuxomfatmulattowoman,withsparklingeyes,whoseheadisdaintilyornamentedwithahandkerchiefofmanycolours。Noristhelandlordmuchbehindherinhisfinery,beingattiredinasmartbluejacket,likeaship\'ssteward,withathickgoldringuponhislittlefinger,androundhisneckagleaminggoldenwatch-guard。Howgladheistoseeus!Whatwillwepleasetocallfor?Adance?Itshallbedonedirectly,sir:\'aregularbreak-down。\'

  Thecorpulentblackfiddler,andhisfriendwhoplaysthetambourine,stampupontheboardingofthesmallraisedorchestrainwhichtheysit,andplayalivelymeasure。Fiveorsixcouplecomeuponthefloor,marshalledbyalivelyyoungnegro,whoisthewitoftheassembly,andthegreatestdancerknown。Heneverleavesoffmakingqueerfaces,andisthedelightofalltherest,whogrinfromeartoearincessantly。Amongthedancersaretwoyoungmulattogirls,withlarge,black,droopingeyes,andhead-

  gearafterthefashionofthehostess,whoareasshy,orfeigntobe,asthoughtheyneverdancedbefore,andsolookdownbeforethevisitors,thattheirpartnerscanseenothingbutthelongfringedlashes。

  Butthedancecommences。Everygentlemansetsaslongashelikestotheoppositelady,andtheoppositeladytohim,andallaresolongaboutitthatthesportbeginstolanguish,whensuddenlythelivelyherodashesintotherescue。Instantlythefiddlergrins,andgoesatittoothandnail;thereisnewenergyinthetambourine;newlaughterinthedancers;newsmilesinthelandlady;newconfidenceinthelandlord;newbrightnessintheverycandles。

  Singleshuffle,doubleshuffle,cutandcross-cut;snappinghisfingers,rollinghiseyes,turninginhisknees,presentingthebacksofhislegsinfront,spinningaboutonhistoesandheelslikenothingbuttheman\'sfingersonthetambourine;dancingwithtwoleftlegs,tworightlegs,twowoodenlegs,twowirelegs,twospringlegs-allsortsoflegsandnolegs-whatisthistohim?

  Andinwhatwalkoflife,ordanceoflife,doesmanevergetsuchstimulatingapplauseasthundersabouthim,when,havingdancedhispartneroffherfeet,andhimselftoo,hefinishesbyleapinggloriouslyonthebar-counter,andcallingforsomethingtodrink,withthechuckleofamillionofcounterfeitJimCrows,inoneinimitablesound!

  Theair,eveninthesedistemperedparts,isfreshafterthestiflingatmosphereofthehouses;andnow,asweemergeintoabroaderstreet,itblowsuponuswithapurerbreath,andthestarslookbrightagain。HereareTheTombsoncemore。Thecitywatch-

  houseisapartofthebuilding。Itfollowsnaturallyonthesightswehavejustleft。Letusseethat,andthentobed。

  What!doyouthrustyourcommonoffendersagainstthepolicedisciplineofthetown,intosuchholesasthese?Domenandwomen,againstwhomnocrimeisproved,liehereallnightinperfectdarkness,surroundedbythenoisomevapourswhichencirclethatflagginglampyoulightuswith,andbreathingthisfilthyandoffensivestench!Why,suchindecentanddisgustingdungeonsasthesecells,wouldbringdisgraceuponthemostdespoticempireintheworld!Lookatthem,man-you,whoseethemeverynight,andkeepthekeys。Doyouseewhattheyare?Doyouknowhowdrainsaremadebelowthestreets,andwhereinthesehumansewersdiffer,exceptinbeingalwaysstagnant?

  Well,hedon\'tknow。Hehashadfive-and-twentyyoungwomenlockedupinthisverycellatonetime,andyou\'dhardlyrealisewhathandsomefacestherewereamong\'em。

  InGod\'sname!shutthedooruponthewretchedcreaturewhoisinitnow,andputitsscreenbeforeaplace,quiteunsurpassedinallthevice,neglect,anddevilry,oftheworstoldtowninEurope。

  Arepeoplereallyleftallnight,untried,inthoseblacksties?-

  Everynight。Thewatchissetatsevenintheevening。Themagistrateopenshiscourtatfiveinthemorning。Thatistheearliesthouratwhichthefirstprisonercanbereleased;andifanofficerappearagainsthim,heisnottakenouttillnineo\'clockorten-Butifanyoneamongthemdieintheinterval,asonemandid,notlongago?Thenheishalf-eatenbytheratsinanhour\'stime;asthatmanwas;andthereanend。

  Whatisthisintolerabletollingofgreatbells,andcrashingofwheels,andshoutinginthedistance?Afire。Andwhatthatdeepredlightintheoppositedirection?Anotherfire。Andwhatthesecharredandblackenedwallswestandbefore?Adwellingwhereafirehasbeen。Itwasmorethanhinted,inanofficialreport,notlongago,thatsomeoftheseconflagrationswerenotwhollyaccidental,andthatspeculationandenterprisefoundafieldofexertion,eveninflames:butbethisasitmay,therewasafirelastnight,therearetwoto-night,andyoumaylayanevenwagertherewillbeatleastone,to-morrow。So,carryingthatwithusforourcomfort,letussay,Goodnight,andclimbup-stairstobed。

  Oneday,duringmystayinNewYork,IpaidavisittothedifferentpublicinstitutionsonLongIsland,orRhodeIsland:I

  forgetwhich。OneofthemisaLunaticAsylum。Thebuildingishandsome;andisremarkableforaspaciousandelegantstaircase。

  Thewholestructureisnotyetfinished,butitisalreadyoneofconsiderablesizeandextent,andiscapableofaccommodatingaverylargenumberofpatients。

  IcannotsaythatIderivedmuchcomfortfromtheinspectionofthischarity。Thedifferentwardsmighthavebeencleanerandbetterordered;Isawnothingofthatsalutarysystemwhichhadimpressedmesofavourablyelsewhere;andeverythinghadalounging,listless,madhouseair,whichwasverypainful。Themopingidiot,coweringdownwithlongdishevelledhair;thegibberingmaniac,withhishideouslaughandpointedfinger;thevacanteye,thefiercewildface,thegloomypickingofthehandsandlips,andmunchingofthenails:theretheywereall,withoutdisguise,innakeduglinessandhorror。Inthedining-room,abare,dull,drearyplace,withnothingfortheeyetorestonbuttheemptywalls,awomanwaslockedupalone。Shewasbent,theytoldme,oncommittingsuicide。Ifanythingcouldhavestrengthenedherinherresolution,itwouldcertainlyhavebeentheinsupportablemonotonyofsuchanexistence。

  Theterriblecrowdwithwhichthesehallsandgallerieswerefilled,soshockedme,thatIabridgedmystaywithintheshortestlimits,anddeclinedtoseethatportionofthebuildinginwhichtherefractoryandviolentwereundercloserrestraint。IhavenodoubtthatthegentlemanwhopresidedoverthisestablishmentatthetimeIwriteof,wascompetenttomanageit,andhaddoneallinhispowertopromoteitsusefulness:butwillitbebelievedthatthemiserablestrifeofPartyfeelingiscarriedevenintothissadrefugeofafflictedanddegradedhumanity?Willitbebelievedthattheeyeswhicharetowatchoverandcontrolthewanderingsofmindsonwhichthemostdreadfulvisitationtowhichournatureisexposedhasfallen,mustweartheglassesofsomewretchedsideinPolitics?Willitbebelievedthatthegovernorofsuchahouseasthis,isappointed,anddeposed,andchangedperpetually,asPartiesfluctuateandvary,andastheirdespicableweathercocksareblownthiswayorthat?Ahundredtimesineveryweek,somenewmostpaltryexhibitionofthatnarrow-mindedandinjuriousPartySpirit,whichistheSimoomofAmerica,sickeningandblightingeverythingofwholesomelifewithinitsreach,wasforceduponmynotice;butIneverturnedmybackuponitwithfeelingsofsuchdeepdisgustandmeasurelesscontempt,aswhenI

  crossedthethresholdofthismadhouse。

  AtashortdistancefromthisbuildingisanothercalledtheAlmsHouse,thatistosay,theworkhouseofNewYork。ThisisalargeInstitutionalso:lodging,Ibelieve,whenIwasthere,nearlyathousandpoor。Itwasbadlyventilated,andbadlylighted;wasnottooclean;-andimpressedme,onthewhole,veryuncomfortably。

  ButitmustberememberedthatNewYork,asagreatemporiumofcommerce,andasaplaceofgeneralresort,notonlyfromallpartsoftheStates,butfrommostpartsoftheworld,hasalwaysalargepauperpopulationtoprovidefor;andlabours,therefore,underpeculiardifficultiesinthisrespect。NormustitbeforgottenthatNewYorkisalargetown,andthatinalllargetownsavastamountofgoodandevilisintermixedandjumbleduptogether。

  InthesameneighbourhoodistheFarm,whereyoungorphansarenursedandbred。Ididnotseeit,butIbelieveitiswellconducted;andIcanthemoreeasilycreditit,fromknowinghowmindfultheyusuallyare,inAmerica,ofthatbeautifulpassageintheLitanywhichremembersallsickpersonsandyoungchildren。

  IwastakentotheseInstitutionsbywater,inaboatbelongingtotheIslandjail,androwedbyacrewofprisoners,whoweredressedinastripeduniformofblackandbuff,inwhichtheylookedlikefadedtigers。Theytookme,bythesameconveyance,tothejailitself。

  Itisanoldprison,andquiteapioneerestablishment,ontheplanIhavealreadydescribed。Iwasgladtohearthis,foritisunquestionablyaveryindifferentone。Themostismade,however,ofthemeansitpossesses,anditisaswellregulatedassuchaplacecanbe。

  Thewomenworkincoveredsheds,erectedforthatpurpose。IfI

  rememberright,therearenoshopsforthemen,butbethatasitmay,thegreaterpartofthemlabourincertainstone-quarriesnearathand。Thedaybeingverywetindeed,thislabourwassuspended,andtheprisonerswereintheircells。Imaginethesecells,sometwoorthreehundredinnumber,andineveryoneamanlockedup;

  thisoneathisdoorforair,withhishandsthrustthroughthegrate;thisoneinbedinthemiddleoftheday,remember;andthisoneflungdowninaheapupontheground,withhisheadagainstthebars,likeawildbeast。Maketherainpourdown,outside,intorrents。Puttheeverlastingstoveinthemidst;hot,andsuffocating,andvaporous,asawitch\'scauldron。Addacollectionofgentleodours,suchaswouldarisefromathousandmildewedumbrellas,wetthrough,andathousandbuck-baskets,fullofhalf-washedlinen-andthereistheprison,asitwasthatday。

  TheprisonfortheStateatSingSingis,ontheotherhand,amodeljail。That,andAuburn,are,Ibelieve,thelargestandbestexamplesofthesilentsystem。

  Inanotherpartofthecity,istheRefugefortheDestitute:anInstitutionwhoseobjectistoreclaimyouthfuloffenders,maleandfemale,blackandwhite,withoutdistinction;toteachthemusefultrades,apprenticethemtorespectablemasters,andmakethemworthymembersofsociety。Itsdesign,itwillbeseen,issimilartothatatBoston;anditisanolessmeritoriousandadmirableestablishment。Asuspicioncrossedmymindduringmyinspectionofthisnoblecharity,whetherthesuperintendenthadquitesufficientknowledgeoftheworldandworldlycharacters;andwhetherhedidnotcommitagreatmistakeintreatingsomeyounggirls,whoweretoallintentsandpurposes,bytheiryearsandtheirpastlives,women,asthoughtheywerelittlechildren;whichcertainlyhadaludicrouseffectinmyeyes,and,orIammuchmistaken,intheirsalso。AstheInstitution,however,isalwaysunderavigilantexaminationofabodyofgentlemenofgreatintelligenceandexperience,itcannotfailtobewellconducted;andwhetherIamrightorwronginthisslightparticular,isunimportanttoitsdesertsandcharacter,whichitwouldbedifficulttoestimatetoohighly。

  Inadditiontotheseestablishments,thereareinNewYork,excellenthospitalsandschools,literaryinstitutionsandlibraries;anadmirablefiredepartmentasindeeditshouldbe,havingconstantpractice,andcharitiesofeverysortandkind。

  Inthesuburbsthereisaspaciouscemetery:unfinishedyet,buteverydayimproving。ThesaddesttombIsawtherewas\'TheStrangers\'Grave。Dedicatedtothedifferenthotelsinthiscity。\'

  Therearethreeprincipaltheatres。Twoofthem,theParkandtheBowery,arelarge,elegant,andhandsomebuildings,andare,I

  grievetowriteit,generallydeserted。Thethird,theOlympic,isatinyshow-boxforvaudevillesandburlesques。ItissingularlywellconductedbyMr。Mitchell,acomicactorofgreatquiethumourandoriginality,whoiswellrememberedandesteemedbyLondonplaygoers。Iamhappytoreportofthisdeservinggentleman,thathisbenchesareusuallywellfilled,andthathistheatreringswithmerrimenteverynight。Ihadalmostforgottenasmallsummertheatre,calledNiblo\'s,withgardensandopenairamusementsattached;butIbelieveitisnotexemptfromthegeneraldepressionunderwhichTheatricalProperty,orwhatishumorouslycalledbythatname,unfortunatelylabours。

  ThecountryroundNewYorkissurpassinglyandexquisitelypicturesque。Theclimate,asIhavealreadyintimated,issomewhatofthewarmest。Whatitwouldbe,withouttheseabreezeswhichcomefromitsbeautifulBayintheeveningtime,Iwillnotthrowmyselformyreadersintoafeverbyinquiring。

  Thetoneofthebestsocietyinthiscity,islikethatofBoston;

  hereandthere,itmaybe,withagreaterinfusionofthemercantilespirit,butgenerallypolishedandrefined,andalwaysmosthospitable。Thehousesandtablesareelegant;thehourslaterandmorerakish;andthereis,perhaps,agreaterspiritofcontentioninreferencetoappearances,andthedisplayofwealthandcostlyliving。Theladiesaresingularlybeautiful。

  BeforeIleftNewYorkImadearrangementsforsecuringapassagehomeintheGeorgeWashingtonpacketship,whichwasadvertisedtosailinJune:thatbeingthemonthinwhichIhaddetermined,ifpreventedbynoaccidentinthecourseofmyramblings,toleaveAmerica。

  IneverthoughtthatgoingbacktoEngland,returningtoallwhoaredeartome,andtopursuitsthathaveinsensiblygrowntobeapartofmynature,IcouldhavefeltsomuchsorrowasIendured,whenIpartedatlast,onboardthisship,withthefriendswhohadaccompaniedmefromthiscity。Ineverthoughtthenameofanyplace,sofarawayandsolatelyknown,couldeverassociateitselfinmymindwiththecrowdofaffectionateremembrancesthatnowclusteraboutit。Therearethoseinthiscitywhowouldbrighten,tome,thedarkestwinter-daythateverglimmeredandwentoutinLapland;andbeforewhosepresenceevenHomegrewdim,whentheyandIexchangedthatpainfulwordwhichmingleswithoureverythoughtanddeed;whichhauntsourcradle-headsininfancy,andclosesupthevistaofourlivesinage。

  CHAPTERVII-PHILADELPHIA,ANDITSSOLITARYPRISON

  THEjourneyfromNewYorktoPhiladelphia,ismadebyrailroad,andtwoferries;andusuallyoccupiesbetweenfiveandsixhours。Itwasafineeveningwhenwewerepassengersinthetrain:andwatchingthebrightsunsetfromalittlewindownearthedoorbywhichwesat,myattentionwasattractedtoaremarkableappearanceissuingfromthewindowsofthegentleman\'scarimmediatelyinfrontofus,whichIsupposedforsometimewasoccasionedbyanumberofindustriouspersonsinside,rippingopenfeather-beds,andgivingthefeatherstothewind。Atlengthitoccurredtomethattheywereonlyspitting,whichwasindeedthecase;thoughhowanynumberofpassengerswhichitwaspossibleforthatcartocontain,couldhavemaintainedsuchaplayfulandincessantshowerofexpectoration,Iamstillatalosstounderstand:

  notwithstandingtheexperienceinallsalivatoryphenomenawhichI

  afterwardsacquired。

  Imadeacquaintance,onthisjourney,withamildandmodestyoungquaker,whoopenedthediscoursebyinformingme,inagravewhisper,thathisgrandfatherwastheinventorofcold-drawncastoroil。Imentionthecircumstancehere,thinkingitprobablethatthisisthefirstoccasiononwhichthevaluablemedicineinquestionwaseverusedasaconversationalaperient。

  Wereachedthecity,latethatnight。Lookingoutofmychamber-

  window,beforegoingtobed,Isaw,ontheoppositesideoftheway,ahandsomebuildingofwhitemarble,whichhadamournfulghost-likeaspect,drearytobehold。Iattributedthistothesombreinfluenceofthenight,andonrisinginthemorninglookedoutagain,expectingtoseeitsstepsandporticothrongedwithgroupsofpeoplepassinginandout。Thedoorwasstilltightshut,however;thesamecoldcheerlessairprevailed:andthebuildinglookedasifthemarblestatueofDonGuzmancouldalonehaveanybusinesstotransactwithinitsgloomywalls。Ihastenedtoinquireitsnameandpurpose,andthenmysurprisevanished。ItwastheTombofmanyfortunes;theGreatCatacombofinvestment;

  thememorableUnitedStatesBank。

  Thestoppageofthisbank,withallitsruinousconsequences,hadcastasIwastoldoneverysideagloomonPhiladelphia,underthedepressingeffectofwhichityetlaboured。Itcertainlydidseemratherdullandoutofspirits。

  Itisahandsomecity,butdistractinglyregular。Afterwalkingaboutitforanhourortwo,IfeltthatIwouldhavegiventheworldforacrookedstreet。Thecollarofmycoatappearedtostiffen,andthebrimofmybattoexpand,beneathitsquakeryinfluence。Myhairshrunkintoasleekshortcrop,myhandsfoldedthemselvesuponmybreastoftheirowncalmaccord,andthoughtsoftakinglodgingsinMarkLaneoveragainsttheMarketPlace,andofmakingalargefortunebyspeculationsincorn,cameovermeinvoluntarily。

  Philadelphiaismostbountifullyprovidedwithfreshwater,whichisshoweredandjerkedabout,andturnedon,andpouredoff,everywhere。TheWaterworks,whichareonaheightnearthecity,arenolessornamentalthanuseful,beingtastefullylaidoutasapublicgarden,andkeptinthebestandneatestorder。Theriverisdammedatthispoint,andforcedbyitsownpowerintocertainhightanksorreservoirs,whencethewholecity,tothetopstoriesofthehouses,issuppliedataverytriflingexpense。

  Therearevariouspublicinstitutions。AmongthemamostexcellentHospital-aquakerestablishment,butnotsectarianinthegreatbenefitsitconfers;aquiet,quaintoldLibrary,namedafterFranklin;ahandsomeExchangeandPostOffice;andsoforth。InconnectionwiththequakerHospital,thereisapicturebyWest,whichisexhibitedforthebenefitofthefundsoftheinstitution。

  Thesubjectis,ourSaviourhealingthesick,anditis,perhaps,asfavourableaspecimenofthemasterascanbeseenanywhere。

  Whetherthisbehighorlowpraise,dependsuponthereader\'staste。

  Inthesameroom,thereisaverycharacteristicandlife-likeportraitbyMr。Sully,adistinguishedAmericanartist。

  MystayinPhiladelphiawasveryshort,butwhatIsawofitssociety,Igreatlyliked。Treatingofitsgeneralcharacteristics,IshouldbedisposedtosaythatitismoreprovincialthanBostonorNewYork,andthatthereisafloatinthefaircity,anassumptionoftasteandcriticism,savouringratherofthosegenteeldiscussionsuponthesamethemes,inconnectionwithShakspeareandtheMusicalGlasses,ofwhichwereadintheVicarofWakefield。Nearthecity,isamostsplendidunfinishedmarblestructurefortheGirardCollege,foundedbyadeceasedgentlemanofthatnameandofenormouswealth,which,ifcompletedaccordingtotheoriginaldesign,willbeperhapstherichestedificeofmoderntimes。Butthebequestisinvolvedinlegaldisputes,andpendingthemtheworkhasstopped;sothatlikemanyothergreatundertakingsinAmerica,eventhisisrathergoingtobedoneoneofthesedays,thandoingnow。

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