第5章
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  stillinterrogativelytoeach。Thenheguessesthatyoudon\'ttravelfasterinEngland;andonyourreplyingthatyoudo,says\'Yes?\'againstillinterrogatively,anditisquiteevident,don\'tbelieveit。Afteralongpauseheremarks,partlytoyou,andpartlytotheknobonthetopofhisstick,that\'Yankeesarereckonedtobeconsiderableofago-aheadpeopletoo;\'uponwhichYOUsay\'Yes,\'andthenHEsays\'Yes\'againaffirmativelythistime;anduponyourlookingoutofwindow,tellsyouthatbehindthathill,andsomethreemilesfromthenextstation,thereisaclevertowninasmartlo-ca-tion,whereheexpectsyouhaveconcludedtostop。Youranswerinthenegativenaturallyleadstomorequestionsinreferencetoyourintendedroutealwayspronouncedrout;andwhereveryouaregoing,youinvariablylearnthatyoucan\'tgettherewithoutimmensedifficultyanddanger,andthatallthegreatsightsaresomewhereelse。

  Ifaladytakeafancytoanymalepassenger\'sseat,thegentlemanwhoaccompanieshergiveshimnoticeofthefact,andheimmediatelyvacatesitwithgreatpoliteness。Politicsaremuchdiscussed,soarebanks,soiscotton。QuietpeopleavoidthequestionofthePresidency,fortherewillbeanewelectioninthreeyearsandahalf,andpartyfeelingrunsveryhigh:thegreatconstitutionalfeatureofthisinstitutionbeing,thatdirectlytheacrimonyofthelastelectionisover,theacrimonyofthenextonebegins;whichisanunspeakablecomforttoallstrongpoliticiansandtrueloversoftheircountry:thatistosay,toninety-ninemenandboysoutofeveryninety-nineandaquarter。

  Exceptwhenabranchroadjoinsthemainone,thereisseldommorethanonetrackofrails;sothattheroadisverynarrow,andtheview,wherethereisadeepcutting,bynomeansextensive。Whenthereisnot,thecharacterofthesceneryisalwaysthesame。

  Mileaftermileofstuntedtrees:somehewndownbytheaxe,someblowndownbythewind,somehalffallenandrestingontheirneighbours,manymerelogshalfhiddenintheswamp,othersmoulderedawaytospongychips。Theverysoiloftheearthismadeupofminutefragmentssuchasthese;eachpoolofstagnantwaterhasitscrustofvegetablerottenness;oneverysidetherearetheboughs,andtrunks,andstumpsoftrees,ineverypossiblestageofdecay,decomposition,andneglect。Nowyouemergeforafewbriefminutesonanopencountry,glitteringwithsomebrightlakeorpool,broadasmanyanEnglishriver,butsosmallherethatitscarcelyhasaname;nowcatchhastyglimpsesofadistanttown,withitscleanwhitehousesandtheircoolpiazzas,itsprimNewEnglandchurchandschool-house;whenwhir-r-r-r!almostbeforeyouhaveseenthem,comesthesamedarkscreen:thestuntedtrees,thestumps,thelogs,thestagnantwater-allsolikethelastthatyouseemtohavebeentransportedbackagainbymagic。

  Thetraincallsatstationsinthewoods,wherethewildimpossibilityofanybodyhavingthesmallestreasontogetout,isonlytobeequalledbytheapparentlydesperatehopelessnessoftherebeinganybodytogetin。Itrushesacrosstheturnpikeroad,wherethereisnogate,nopoliceman,nosignal:nothingbutaroughwoodenarch,onwhichispainted\'WHENTHEBELLRINGS,LOOK

  OUTFORTHELOCOMOTIVE。\'Onitwhirlsheadlong,divesthroughthewoodsagain,emergesinthelight,clattersoverfrailarches,rumblesupontheheavyground,shootsbeneathawoodenbridgewhichinterceptsthelightforasecondlikeawink,suddenlyawakensalltheslumberingechoesinthemainstreetofalargetown,anddashesonhaphazard,pell-mell,neck-or-nothing,downthemiddleoftheroad。There-withmechanicsworkingattheirtrades,andpeopleleaningfromtheirdoorsandwindows,andboysflyingkitesandplayingmarbles,andmensmoking,andwomentalking,andchildrencrawling,andpigsburrowing,andunaccustomedhorsesplungingandrearing,closetotheveryrails-there-on,on,on-tearsthemaddragonofanenginewithitstrainofcars;

  scatteringinalldirectionsashowerofburningsparksfromitswoodfire;screeching,hissing,yelling,panting;untilatlastthethirstymonsterstopsbeneathacoveredwaytodrink,thepeopleclusterround,andyouhavetimetobreatheagain。

  IwasmetatthestationatLowellbyagentlemanintimatelyconnectedwiththemanagementofthefactoriesthere;andgladlyputtingmyselfunderhisguidance,droveoffatoncetothatquarterofthetowninwhichtheworks,theobjectofmyvisit,weresituated。Althoughonlyjustofage-forifmyrecollectionserveme,ithasbeenamanufacturingtownbarelyone-and-twentyyears-Lowellisalarge,populous,thrivingplace。Thoseindicationsofitsyouthwhichfirstattracttheeye,giveitaquaintnessandoddityofcharacterwhich,toavisitorfromtheoldcountry,isamusingenough。Itwasaverydirtywinter\'sday,andnothinginthewholetownlookedoldtome,exceptthemud,whichinsomepartswasalmostknee-deep,andmighthavebeendepositedthere,onthesubsidingofthewatersaftertheDeluge。Inoneplace,therewasanewwoodenchurch,which,havingnosteeple,andbeingyetunpainted,lookedlikeanenormouspacking-casewithoutanydirectionuponit。Inanothertherewasalargehotel,whosewallsandcolonnadesweresocrisp,andthin,andslight,thatithadexactlytheappearanceofbeingbuiltwithcards。Iwascarefulnottodrawmybreathaswepassed,andtrembledwhenIsawaworkmancomeoutupontheroof,lestwithonethoughtlessstampofhisfootheshouldcrushthestructurebeneathhim,andbringitrattlingdown。Theveryriverthatmovesthemachineryinthemillsfortheyareallworkedbywaterpower,seemstoacquireanewcharacterfromthefreshbuildingsofbrightredbrickandpaintedwoodamongwhichittakesitscourse;andtobeaslight-

  headed,thoughtless,andbriskayoungriver,initsmurmuringsandtumblings,asonewoulddesiretosee。Onewouldswearthatevery\'Bakery,\'\'Grocery,\'and\'Bookbindery,\'andotherkindofstore,tookitsshuttersdownforthefirsttime,andstartedinbusinessyesterday。Thegoldenpestlesandmortarsfixedassignsuponthesun-blindframesoutsidetheDruggists\',appeartohavebeenjustturnedoutoftheUnitedStates\'Mint;andwhenIsawababyofsomeweekortendaysoldinawoman\'sarmsatastreetcorner,I

  foundmyselfunconsciouslywonderingwhereitcamefrom:neversupposingforaninstantthatitcouldhavebeenborninsuchayoungtownasthat。

  ThereareseveralfactoriesinLowell,eachofwhichbelongstowhatweshouldtermaCompanyofProprietors,butwhattheycallinAmericaaCorporation。Iwentoverseveralofthese;suchasawoollenfactory,acarpetfactory,andacottonfactory:examinedthemineverypart;andsawthemintheirordinaryworkingaspect,withnopreparationofanykind,ordeparturefromtheirordinaryeverydayproceedings。ImayaddthatIamwellacquaintedwithourmanufacturingtownsinEngland,andhavevisitedmanymillsinManchesterandelsewhereinthesamemanner。

  Ihappenedtoarriveatthefirstfactoryjustasthedinnerhourwasover,andthegirlswerereturningtotheirwork;indeedthestairsofthemillwerethrongedwiththemasIascended。Theywereallwelldressed,butnottomythinkingabovetheircondition;forIliketoseethehumblerclassesofsocietycarefuloftheirdressandappearance,andeven,iftheyplease,decoratedwithsuchlittletrinketsascomewithinthecompassoftheirmeans。Supposingitconfinedwithinreasonablelimits,Iwouldalwaysencouragethiskindofpride,asaworthyelementofself-

  respect,inanypersonIemployed;andshouldnomorebedeterredfromdoingso,becausesomewretchedfemalereferredherfalltoaloveofdress,thanIwouldallowmyconstructionoftherealintentandmeaningoftheSabbathtobeinfluencedbyanywarningtothewell-disposed,foundedonhisbackslidingsonthatparticularday,whichmightemanatefromtheratherdoubtfulauthorityofamurdererinNewgate。

  Thesegirls,asIhavesaid,wereallwelldressed:andthatphrasenecessarilyincludesextremecleanliness。Theyhadserviceablebonnets,goodwarmcloaks,andshawls;andwerenotaboveclogsandpattens。Moreover,therewereplacesinthemillinwhichtheycoulddepositthesethingswithoutinjury;andtherewereconveniencesforwashing。Theywerehealthyinappearance,manyofthemremarkablyso,andhadthemannersanddeportmentofyoungwomen:notofdegradedbrutesofburden。IfIhadseeninoneofthosemillsbutIdidnot,thoughIlookedforsomethingofthiskindwithasharpeye,themostlisping,mincing,affected,andridiculousyoungcreaturethatmyimaginationcouldsuggest,I

  shouldhavethoughtofthecareless,moping,slatternly,degraded,dullreverseIHAVEseenthat,andshouldhavebeenstillwellpleasedtolookuponher。

  Theroomsinwhichtheyworked,wereaswellorderedasthemselves。

  Inthewindowsofsome,thereweregreenplants,whichweretrainedtoshadetheglass;inall,therewasasmuchfreshair,cleanliness,andcomfort,asthenatureoftheoccupationwouldpossiblyadmitof。Outofsolargeanumberoffemales,manyofwhomwereonlythenjustverginguponwomanhood,itmaybereasonablysupposedthatsomeweredelicateandfragileinappearance:nodoubttherewere。ButIsolemnlydeclare,thatfromallthecrowdIsawinthedifferentfactoriesthatday,I

  cannotrecallorseparateoneyoungfacethatgavemeapainfulimpression;notoneyounggirlwhom,assumingittobeamatterofnecessitythatsheshouldgainherdailybreadbythelabourofherhands,IwouldhaveremovedfromthoseworksifIhadhadthepower。

  Theyresideinvariousboarding-housesnearathand。Theownersofthemillsareparticularlycarefultoallownopersonstoenteruponthepossessionofthesehouses,whosecharactershavenotundergonethemostsearchingandthoroughinquiry。Anycomplaintthatismadeagainstthem,bytheboarders,orbyanyoneelse,isfullyinvestigated;andifgoodgroundofcomplaintbeshowntoexistagainstthem,theyareremoved,andtheiroccupationishandedovertosomemoredeservingperson。Thereareafewchildrenemployedinthesefactories,butnotmany。ThelawsoftheStateforbidtheirworkingmorethanninemonthsintheyear,andrequirethattheybeeducatedduringtheotherthree。ForthispurposethereareschoolsinLowell;andtherearechurchesandchapelsofvariouspersuasions,inwhichtheyoungwomenmayobservethatformofworshipinwhichtheyhavebeeneducated。

  Atsomedistancefromthefactories,andonthehighestandpleasantestgroundintheneighbourhood,standstheirhospital,orboarding-houseforthesick:itisthebesthouseinthoseparts,andwasbuiltbyaneminentmerchantforhisownresidence。LikethatinstitutionatBoston,whichIhavebeforedescribed,itisnotparcelledoutintowards,butisdividedintoconvenientchambers,eachofwhichhasallthecomfortsofaverycomfortablehome。Theprincipalmedicalattendantresidesunderthesameroof;

  andwerethepatientsmembersofhisownfamily,theycouldnotbebettercaredfor,orattendedwithgreatergentlenessandconsideration。Theweeklychargeinthisestablishmentforeachfemalepatientisthreedollars,ortwelveshillingsEnglish;butnogirlemployedbyanyofthecorporationsiseverexcludedforwantofthemeansofpayment。Thattheydonotveryoftenwantthemeans,maybegatheredfromthefact,thatinJuly,1841,nofewerthanninehundredandseventy-eightofthesegirlsweredepositorsintheLowellSavingsBank:theamountofwhosejointsavingswasestimatedatonehundredthousanddollars,ortwentythousandEnglishpounds。

  Iamnowgoingtostatethreefacts,whichwillstartlealargeclassofreadersonthissideoftheAtlantic,verymuch。

  Firstly,thereisajoint-stockpianoinagreatmanyoftheboarding-houses。Secondly,nearlyalltheseyoungladiessubscribetocirculatinglibraries。Thirdly,theyhavegotupamongthemselvesaperiodicalcalledTHELOWELLOFFERING,\'Arepositoryoforiginalarticles,writtenexclusivelybyfemalesactivelyemployedinthemills,\'-whichisdulyprinted,published,andsold;andwhereofIbroughtawayfromLowellfourhundredgoodsolidpages,whichIhavereadfrombeginningtoend。

  Thelargeclassofreaders,startledbythesefacts,willexclaim,withonevoice,\'Howverypreposterous!\'Onmydeferentiallyinquiringwhy,theywillanswer,\'Thesethingsareabovetheirstation。\'Inreplytothatobjection,Iwouldbegtoaskwhattheirstationis。

  Itistheirstationtowork。AndtheyDOwork。Theylabourinthesemills,uponanaverage,twelvehoursaday,whichisunquestionablywork,andprettytightworktoo。Perhapsitisabovetheirstationtoindulgeinsuchamusements,onanyterms。

  ArewequitesurethatweinEnglandhavenotformedourideasofthe\'station\'ofworkingpeople,fromaccustomingourselvestothecontemplationofthatclassastheyare,andnotastheymightbe?

  Ithinkthatifweexamineourownfeelings,weshallfindthatthepianos,andthecirculatinglibraries,andeventheLowellOffering,startleusbytheirnovelty,andnotbytheirbearinguponanyabstractquestionofrightorwrong。

  Formyself,Iknownostationinwhich,theoccupationofto-daycheerfullydoneandtheoccupationofto-morrowcheerfullylookedto,anyoneofthesepursuitsisnotmosthumanisingandlaudable。

  Iknownostationwhichisrenderedmoreendurabletothepersoninit,ormoresafetothepersonoutofit,byhavingignoranceforitsassociate。Iknownostationwhichhasarighttomonopolisethemeansofmutualinstruction,improvement,andrationalentertainment;orwhichhasevercontinuedtobeastationverylong,afterseekingtodoso。

  OfthemeritsoftheLowellOfferingasaliteraryproduction,I

  willonlyobserve,puttingentirelyoutofsightthefactofthearticleshavingbeenwrittenbythesegirlsafterthearduouslaboursoftheday,thatitwillcompareadvantageouslywithagreatmanyEnglishAnnuals。ItispleasanttofindthatmanyofitsTalesareoftheMillsandofthosewhoworkinthem;thattheyinculcatehabitsofself-denialandcontentment,andteachgooddoctrinesofenlargedbenevolence。Astrongfeelingforthebeautiesofnature,asdisplayedinthesolitudesthewritershaveleftathome,breathesthroughitspageslikewholesomevillageair;andthoughacirculatinglibraryisafavourableschoolforthestudyofsuchtopics,ithasveryscantallusiontofineclothes,finemarriages,finehouses,orfinelife。Somepersonsmightobjecttothepapersbeingsignedoccasionallywithratherfinenames,butthisisanAmericanfashion。OneoftheprovincesofthestatelegislatureofMassachusettsistoalteruglynamesintoprettyones,asthechildrenimproveuponthetastesoftheirparents。Thesechangescostinglittleornothing,scoresofMaryAnnesaresolemnlyconvertedintoBevelinaseverysession。

  ItissaidthatontheoccasionofavisitfromGeneralJacksonorGeneralHarrisontothistownIforgetwhich,butitisnottothepurpose,hewalkedthroughthreemilesandahalfoftheseyoungladiesalldressedoutwithparasolsandsilkstockings。ButasI

  amnotawarethatanyworseconsequenceensued,thanasuddenlooking-upofalltheparasolsandsilkstockingsinthemarket;

  andperhapsthebankruptcyofsomespeculativeNewEnglanderwhoboughtthemallupatanyprice,inexpectationofademandthatnevercame;Isetnogreatstorebythecircumstance。

  InthisbriefaccountofLowell,andinadequateexpressionofthegratificationityieldedme,andcannotfailtoaffordtoanyforeignertowhomtheconditionofsuchpeopleathomeisasubjectofinterestandanxiousspeculation,Ihavecarefullyabstainedfromdrawingacomparisonbetweenthesefactoriesandthoseofourownland。Manyofthecircumstanceswhosestronginfluencehasbeenatworkforyearsinourmanufacturingtownshavenotarisenhere;andthereisnomanufacturingpopulationinLowell,sotospeak:forthesegirlsoftenthedaughtersofsmallfarmerscomefromotherStates,remainafewyearsinthemills,andthengohomeforgood。

  Thecontrastwouldbeastrongone,foritwouldbebetweentheGoodandEvil,thelivinglightanddeepestshadow。Iabstainfromit,becauseIdeemitjusttodoso。ButIonlythemoreearnestlyadjureallthosewhoseeyesmayrestonthesepages,topauseandreflectuponthedifferencebetweenthistownandthosegreathauntsofdesperatemisery:tocalltomind,iftheycaninthemidstofpartystrifeandsquabble,theeffortsthatmustbemadetopurgethemoftheirsufferinganddanger:andlast,andforemost,torememberhowthepreciousTimeisrushingby。

  Ireturnedatnightbythesamerailroadandinthesamekindofcar。Oneofthepassengersbeingexceedinglyanxioustoexpoundatgreatlengthtomycompanionnottome,ofcoursethetrueprinciplesonwhichbooksoftravelinAmericashouldbewrittenbyEnglishmen,Ifeignedtofallasleep。Butglancingallthewayoutatwindowfromthecornersofmyeyes,Ifoundabundanceofentertainmentfortherestoftherideinwatchingtheeffectsofthewoodfire,whichhadbeeninvisibleinthemorningbutwerenowbroughtoutinfullreliefbythedarkness:forweweretravellinginawhirlwindofbrightsparks,whichshoweredaboutuslikeastormoffierysnow。

  CHAPTERV-WORCESTER。THECONNECTICUTRIVER。HARTFORD。NEW

  HAVEN。TONEWYORK

  LEAVINGBostonontheafternoonofSaturdaythefifthofFebruary,weproceededbyanotherrailroadtoWorcester:aprettyNewEnglandtown,wherewehadarrangedtoremainunderthehospitableroofoftheGovernoroftheState,untilMondaymorning。

  ThesetownsandcitiesofNewEnglandmanyofwhichwouldbevillagesinOldEngland,areasfavourablespecimensofruralAmerica,astheirpeopleareofruralAmericans。Thewell-trimmedlawnsandgreenmeadowsofhomearenotthere;andthegrass,comparedwithourornamentalplotsandpastures,isrank,andrough,andwild:butdelicateslopesofland,gently-swellinghills,woodedvalleys,andslenderstreams,abound。Everylittlecolonyofhouseshasitschurchandschool-housepeepingfromamongthewhiteroofsandshadytrees;everyhouseisthewhitestofthewhite;everyVenetianblindthegreenestofthegreen;everyfineday\'sskythebluestoftheblue。AsharpdrywindandaslightfrosthadsohardenedtheroadswhenwealightedatWorcester,thattheirfurrowedtrackswerelikeridgesofgranite。Therewastheusualaspectofnewnessoneveryobject,ofcourse。Allthebuildingslookedasiftheyhadbeenbuiltandpaintedthatmorning,andcouldbetakendownonMondaywithverylittletrouble。Inthekeeneveningair,everysharpoutlinelookedahundredtimessharperthanever。ThecleancardboardcolonnadeshadnomoreperspectivethanaChinesebridgeonatea-cup,andappearedequallywellcalculatedforuse。Therazor-likeedgesofthedetachedcottagesseemedtocuttheverywindasitwhistledagainstthem,andtosenditsmartingonitswaywithashrillercrythanbefore。Thoseslightly-builtwoodendwellingsbehindwhichthesunwassettingwithabrilliantlustre,couldbesolookedthroughandthrough,thattheideaofanyinhabitantbeingabletohidehimselffromthepublicgaze,ortohaveanysecretsfromthepubliceye,wasnotentertainableforamoment。Evenwhereablazingfireshonethroughtheuncurtainedwindowsofsomedistanthouse,ithadtheairofbeingnewlylighted,andoflackingwarmth;andinsteadofawakeningthoughtsofasnugchamber,brightwithfacesthatfirstsawthelightroundthatsamehearth,andruddywithwarmhangings,itcameupononesuggestiveofthesmellofnewmortaranddampwalls。

  SoIthought,atleast,thatevening。Nextmorningwhenthesunwasshiningbrightly,andtheclearchurchbellswereringing,andsedatepeopleintheirbestclothesenlivenedthepathwaynearathandanddottedthedistantthreadofroad,therewasapleasantSabbathpeacefulnessoneverything,whichitwasgoodtofeel。Itwouldhavebeenthebetterforanoldchurch;betterstillforsomeoldgraves;butasitwas,awholesomereposeandtranquillitypervadedthescene,whichaftertherestlessoceanandthehurriedcity,hadadoublygratefulinfluenceonthespirits。

  Wewentonnextmorning,stillbyrailroad,toSpringfield。FromthatplacetoHartford,whitherwewerebound,isadistanceofonlyfive-and-twentymiles,butatthattimeoftheyeartheroadsweresobadthatthejourneywouldprobablyhaveoccupiedtenortwelvehours。Fortunately,however,thewinterhavingbeenunusuallymild,theConnecticutRiverwas\'open,\'or,inotherwords,notfrozen。ThecaptainofasmallsteamboatwasgoingtomakehisfirsttripfortheseasonthatdaythesecondFebruarytrip,Ibelieve,withinthememoryofman,andonlywaitedforustogoonboard。Accordingly,wewentonboard,withaslittledelayasmightbe。Hewasasgoodashisword,andstarteddirectly。

  Itcertainlywasnotcalledasmallsteamboatwithoutreason。I

  omittedtoaskthequestion,butIshouldthinkitmusthavebeenofabouthalfaponypower。Mr。Paap,thecelebratedDwarf,mighthavelivedanddiedhappilyinthecabin,whichwasfittedwithcommonsash-windowslikeanordinarydwelling-house。Thesewindowshadbright-redcurtains,too,hungonslackstringsacrossthelowerpanes;sothatitlookedliketheparlourofaLilliputianpublic-house,whichhadgotafloatinafloodorsomeotherwateraccident,andwasdriftingnobodyknewwhere。Buteveninthischambertherewasarocking-chair。Itwouldbeimpossibletogetonanywhere,inAmerica,withoutarocking-chair。Iamafraidtotellhowmanyfeetshortthisvesselwas,orhowmanyfeetnarrow:

  toapplythewordslengthandwidthtosuchmeasurementwouldbeacontradictioninterms。ButImaystatethatweallkeptthemiddleofthedeck,lesttheboatshouldunexpectedlytipover;andthatthemachinery,bysomesurprisingprocessofcondensation,workedbetweenitandthekeel:thewholeformingawarmsandwich,aboutthreefeetthick。

  ItrainedalldayasIoncethoughtitneverdidrainanywhere,butintheHighlandsofScotland。Theriverwasfulloffloatingblocksofice,whichwereconstantlycrunchingandcrackingunderus;andthedepthofwater,inthecoursewetooktoavoidthelargermasses,carrieddownthemiddleoftheriverbythecurrent,didnotexceedafewinches。Nevertheless,wemovedonward,dexterously;andbeingwellwrappedup,badedefiancetotheweather,andenjoyedthejourney。TheConnecticutRiverisafinestream;andthebanksinsummer-timeare,Ihavenodoubt,beautiful;atallevents,Iwastoldsobyayoungladyinthecabin;andsheshouldbeajudgeofbeauty,ifthepossessionofaqualityincludetheappreciationofit,foramorebeautifulcreatureIneverlookedupon。

  Aftertwohoursandahalfofthisoddtravellingincludingastoppageatasmalltown,whereweweresalutedbyagunconsiderablybiggerthanourownchimney,wereachedHartford,andstraightwayrepairedtoanextremelycomfortablehotel:except,asusual,inthearticleofbedrooms,which,inalmosteveryplacewevisited,wereveryconducivetoearlyrising。

  Wetarriedhere,fourdays。Thetownisbeautifullysituatedinabasinofgreenhills;thesoilisrich,well-wooded,andcarefullyimproved。ItistheseatofthelocallegislatureofConnecticut,whichsagebodyenacted,inbygonetimes,therenownedcodeof\'BlueLaws,\'invirtuewhereof,amongotherenlightenedprovisions,anycitizenwhocouldbeprovedtohavekissedhiswifeonSunday,waspunishable,Ibelieve,withthestocks。ToomuchoftheoldPuritanspiritexistsinthesepartstothepresenthour;butitsinfluencehasnottended,thatIknow,tomakethepeoplelesshardintheirbargains,ormoreequalintheirdealings。AsIneverheardofitsworkingthateffectanywhereelse,Iinferthatitneverwill,here。Indeed,Iamaccustomed,withreferencetogreatprofessionsandseverefaces,tojudgeofthegoodsoftheotherworldprettymuchasIjudgeofthegoodsofthis;andwheneverI

  seeadealerinsuchcommoditieswithtoogreatadisplayoftheminhiswindow,Idoubtthequalityofthearticlewithin。

  InHartfordstandsthefamousoakinwhichthecharterofKingCharleswashidden。Itisnowinclosedinagentleman\'sgarden。

  IntheStateHouseisthecharteritself。Ifoundthecourtsoflawhere,justthesameasatBoston;thepublicinstitutionsalmostasgood。TheInsaneAsylumisadmirablyconducted,andsoistheInstitutionfortheDeafandDumb。

  Iverymuchquestionedwithinmyself,asIwalkedthroughtheInsaneAsylum,whetherIshouldhaveknowntheattendantsfromthepatients,butforthefewwordswhichpassedbetweentheformer,andtheDoctor,inreferencetothepersonsundertheircharge。OfcourseIlimitthisremarkmerelytotheirlooks;fortheconversationofthemadpeoplewasmadenough。

  Therewasonelittle,primoldlady,ofverysmilingandgood-

  humouredappearance,whocamesidlinguptomefromtheendofalongpassage,andwithacurtseyofinexpressiblecondescension,propoundedthisunaccountableinquiry:

  \'DoesPontefractstillflourish,sir,uponthesoilofEngland?\'

  \'Hedoes,ma\'am,\'Irejoined。

  \'Whenyoulastsawhim,sir,hewas-\'

  \'Well,ma\'am,\'saidI,\'extremelywell。Hebeggedmetopresenthiscompliments。Ineversawhimlookingbetter。\'

  Atthis,theoldladywasverymuchdelighted。Afterglancingatmeforamoment,asiftobequitesurethatIwasseriousinmyrespectfulair,shesidledbacksomepaces;sidledforwardagain;

  madeasuddenskipatwhichIprecipitatelyretreatedasteportwo;andsaid:

  \'Iamanantediluvian,sir。\'

  Ithoughtthebestthingtosaywas,thatIhadsuspectedasmuchfromthefirst。ThereforeIsaidso。

  \'Itisanextremelyproudandpleasantthing,sir,tobeanantediluvian,\'saidtheoldlady。

  \'Ishouldthinkitwas,ma\'am,\'Irejoined。

  Theoldladykissedherhand,gaveanotherskip,smirkedandsidleddownthegalleryinamostextraordinarymanner,andambledgracefullyintoherownbed-chamber。

  Inanotherpartofthebuilding,therewasamalepatientinbed;

  verymuchflushedandheated。

  \'Well,\'saidhe,startingup,andpullingoffhisnight-cap:\'It\'sallsettledatlast。IhavearrangeditwithQueenVictoria。\'

  \'Arrangedwhat?\'askedtheDoctor。

  \'Why,thatbusiness,\'passinghishandwearilyacrosshisforehead,\'aboutthesiegeofNewYork。\'

  \'Oh!\'saidI,likeamansuddenlyenlightened。Forhelookedatmeforananswer。

  \'Yes。EveryhousewithoutasignalwillbefireduponbytheBritishtroops。Noharmwillbedonetotheothers。Noharmatall。Thosethatwanttobesafe,musthoistflags。That\'sallthey\'llhavetodo。Theymusthoistflags。\'

  Evenwhilehewasspeakingheseemed,Ithought,tohavesomefaintideathathistalkwasincoherent。Directlyhehadsaidthesewords,helaydownagain;gaveakindofagroan;andcoveredhishotheadwiththeblankets。

  Therewasanother:ayoungman,whosemadnesswasloveandmusic。

  Afterplayingontheaccordionamarchhehadcomposed,hewasveryanxiousthatIshouldwalkintohischamber,whichIimmediatelydid。

  Bywayofbeingveryknowing,andhumouringhimtothetopofhisbent,Iwenttothewindow,whichcommandedabeautifulprospect,andremarked,withanaddressuponwhichIgreatlyplumedmyself:

  \'Whatadeliciouscountryyouhaveabouttheselodgingsofyours!\'

  \'Poh!\'saidhe,movinghisfingerscarelesslyoverthenotesofhisinstrument:\'WELLENOUGHFORSUCHANINSTITUTIONASTHIS!\'

  Idon\'tthinkIwaseversotakenabackinallmylife。

  \'Icomeherejustforawhim,\'hesaidcoolly。\'That\'sall。\'

  \'Oh!That\'sall!\'saidI。

  \'Yes。That\'sall。TheDoctor\'sasmartman。Hequiteentersintoit。It\'sajokeofmine。Ilikeitforatime。Youneedn\'tmentionit,butIthinkIshallgooutnextTuesday!\'

  IassuredhimthatIwouldconsiderourinterviewperfectlyconfidential;andrejoinedtheDoctor。Aswewerepassingthroughagalleryonourwayout,awell-dressedlady,ofquietandcomposedmanners,cameup,andprofferingaslipofpaperandapen,beggedthatIwouldobligeherwithanautograph,Icomplied,andweparted。

  \'IthinkIrememberhavinghadafewinterviewslikethat,withladiesoutofdoors。IhopeSHEisnotmad?\'

  \'Yes。\'

  \'Onwhatsubject?Autographs?\'

  \'No。Shehearsvoicesintheair。\'

  \'Well!\'thoughtI,\'itwouldbewellifwecouldshutupafewfalseprophetsoftheselatertimes,whohaveprofessedtodothesame;andIshouldliketotrytheexperimentonaMormonistortwotobeginwith。\'

  Inthisplace,thereisthebestjailforuntriedoffendersintheworld。Thereisalsoaverywell-orderedStateprison,arrangeduponthesameplanasthatatBoston,exceptthathere,thereisalwaysasentryonthewallwithaloadedgun。Itcontainedatthattimeabouttwohundredprisoners。Aspotwasshownmeinthesleepingward,whereawatchmanwasmurderedsomeyearssinceinthedeadofnight,inadesperateattempttoescape,madebyaprisonerwhohadbrokenfromhiscell。Awoman,too,waspointedouttome,who,forthemurderofherhusband,hadbeenacloseprisonerforsixteenyears。

  \'Doyouthink,\'Iaskedofmyconductor,\'thataftersoverylonganimprisonment,shehasanythoughtorhopeofeverregainingherliberty?\'

  \'Ohdearyes,\'heanswered。\'Tobesureshehas。\'

  \'Shehasnochanceofobtainingit,Isuppose?\'

  \'Well,Idon\'tknow:\'which,by-the-bye,isanationalanswer。

  \'Herfriendsmistrusther。\'

  \'WhathaveTHEYtodowithit?\'Inaturallyinquired。

  \'Well,theywon\'tpetition。\'

  \'Butiftheydid,theycouldn\'tgetherout,Isuppose?\'

  \'Well,notthefirsttime,perhaps,noryetthesecond,buttiringandwearyingforafewyearsmightdoit。\'

  \'Doesthateverdoit?\'

  \'Whyyes,that\'lldoitsometimes。Politicalfriends\'lldoitsometimes。It\'sprettyoftendone,onewayoranother。\'

  IshallalwaysentertainaverypleasantandgratefulrecollectionofHartford。Itisalovelyplace,andIhadmanyfriendsthere,whomIcanneverrememberwithindifference。WeleftitwithnolittleregretontheeveningofFridaythe11th,andtravelledthatnightbyrailroadtoNewHaven。Upontheway,theguardandIwereformallyintroducedtoeachotherasweusuallywereonsuchoccasions,andexchangedavarietyofsmall-talk。WereachedNewHavenatabouteighto\'clock,afterajourneyofthreehours,andputupforthenightatthebestinn。

  NewHaven,knownalsoastheCityofElms,isafinetown。ManyofitsstreetsasitsALIASsufficientlyimportsareplantedwithrowsofgrandoldelm-trees;andthesamenaturalornamentssurroundYaleCollege,anestablishmentofconsiderableeminenceandreputation。ThevariousdepartmentsofthisInstitutionareerectedinakindofparkorcommoninthemiddleofthetown,wheretheyaredimlyvisibleamongtheshadowingtrees。TheeffectisverylikethatofanoldcathedralyardinEngland;andwhentheirbranchesareinfullleaf,mustbeextremelypicturesque。

  Eveninthewintertime,thesegroupsofwell-growntrees,clusteringamongthebusystreetsandhousesofathrivingcity,haveaveryquaintappearance:seemingtobringaboutakindofcompromisebetweentownandcountry;asifeachhadmettheotherhalf-way,andshakenhandsuponit;whichisatoncenovelandpleasant。

  Afteranight\'srest,weroseearly,andingoodtimewentdowntothewharf,andonboardthepacketNewYorkFORNewYork。ThiswasthefirstAmericansteamboatofanysizethatIhadseen;andcertainlytoanEnglisheyeitwasinfinitelylesslikeasteamboatthanahugefloatingbath。Icouldhardlypersuademyself,indeed,butthatthebathingestablishmentoffWestminsterBridge,whichI

  leftababy,hadsuddenlygrowntoanenormoussize;runawayfromhome;andsetupinforeignpartsasasteamer。BeinginAmerica,too,whichourvagabondsdosoparticularlyfavour,itseemedthemoreprobable。

  Thegreatdifferenceinappearancebetweenthesepacketsandours,is,thatthereissomuchofthemoutofthewater:themain-deckbeingenclosedonallsides,andfilledwithcasksandgoods,likeanysecondorthirdfloorinastackofwarehouses;andthepromenadeorhurricane-deckbeinga-topofthatagain。Apartofthemachineryisalwaysabovethisdeck;wheretheconnecting-rod,inastrongandloftyframe,isseenworkingawaylikeanirontop-

  sawyer。Thereisseldomanymastortackle:nothingaloftbuttwotallblackchimneys。Themanatthehelmisshutupinalittlehouseintheforepartoftheboatthewheelbeingconnectedwiththerudderbyironchains,workingthewholelengthofthedeck;

  andthepassengers,unlesstheweatherbeveryfineindeed,usuallycongregatebelow。Directlyyouhaveleftthewharf,allthelife,andstir,andbustleofapacketcease。Youwonderforalongtimehowshegoeson,forthereseemstobenobodyinchargeofher;andwhenanotherofthesedullmachinescomessplashingby,youfeelquiteindignantwithit,asasullencumbrous,ungraceful,unshiplikeleviathan:quiteforgettingthatthevesselyouareonboardof,isitsverycounterpart。

  Thereisalwaysaclerk\'sofficeonthelowerdeck,whereyoupayyourfare;aladies\'cabin;baggageandstowagerooms;engineer\'sroom;andinshortagreatvarietyofperplexitieswhichrenderthediscoveryofthegentlemen\'scabin,amatterofsomedifficulty。

  Itoftenoccupiesthewholelengthoftheboatasitdidinthiscase,andhasthreeorfourtiersofberthsoneachside。WhenI

  firstdescendedintothecabinoftheNewYork,itlooked,inmyunaccustomedeyes,aboutaslongastheBurlingtonArcade。

  TheSoundwhichhastobecrossedonthispassage,isnotalwaysaverysafeorpleasantnavigation,andhasbeenthesceneofsomeunfortunateaccidents。Itwasawetmorning,andverymisty,andwesoonlostsightofland。Thedaywascalm,however,andbrightenedtowardsnoon。Afterexhaustingwithgoodhelpfromafriendthelarder,andthestockofbottledbeer,Ilaydowntosleep;beingverymuchtiredwiththefatiguesofyesterday。ButI

  wokefrommynapintimetohurryup,andseeHellGate,theHog\'sBack,theFryingPan,andothernotoriouslocalities,attractivetoallreadersoffamousDiedrichKnickerbocker\'sHistory。Wewerenowinanarrowchannel,withslopingbanksoneitherside,besprinkledwithpleasantvillas,andmaderefreshingtothesightbyturfandtrees。Soonweshotinquicksuccession,pastalight-

  house;amadhousehowthelunaticsflunguptheircapsandroaredinsympathywiththeheadlongengineandthedrivingtide!;ajail;andotherbuildings:andsoemergedintoanoblebay,whosewaterssparkledinthenowcloudlesssunshinelikeNature\'seyesturneduptoHeaven。

  Thentherelaystretchedoutbeforeus,totheright,confusedheapsofbuildings,withhereandthereaspireorsteeple,lookingdownupontheherdbelow;andhereandthere,again,acloudoflazysmoke;andintheforegroundaforestofships\'masts,cheerywithflappingsailsandwavingflags。Crossingfromamongthemtotheoppositeshore,weresteamferry-boatsladenwithpeople,coaches,horses,waggons,baskets,boxes:crossedandrecrossedbyotherferry-boats:alltravellingtoandfro:andneveridle。

  StatelyamongtheserestlessInsects,weretwoorthreelargeships,movingwithslowmajesticpace,ascreaturesofaprouderkind,disdainfuloftheirpunyjourneys,andmakingforthebroadsea。Beyond,wereshiningheights,andislandsintheglancingriver,andadistancescarcelylessblueandbrightthantheskyitseemedtomeet。Thecity\'shumandbuzz,theclinkingofcapstans,theringingofbells,thebarkingofdogs,theclatteringofwheels,tingledinthelisteningear。Allofwhichlifeandstir,comingacrossthestirringwater,caughtnewlifeandanimationfromitsfreecompanionship;and,sympathisingwithitsbuoyantspirits,glistenedasitseemedinsportuponitssurface,andhemmedthevesselround,andplashedthewaterhighabouthersides,and,floatinghergallantlyintothedock,flewoffagaintowelcomeothercomers,andspeedbeforethemtothebusyport。

  CHAPTERVI-NEWYORK

  THEbeautifulmetropolisofAmericaisbynomeanssocleanacityasBoston,butmanyofitsstreetshavethesamecharacteristics;

  exceptthatthehousesarenotquitesofresh-coloured,thesign-

  boardsarenotquitesogaudy,thegildedlettersnotquitesogolden,thebricksnotquitesored,thestonenotquitesowhite,theblindsandarearailingsnotquitesogreen,theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorsnotquitesobrightandtwinkling。

  Therearemanyby-streets,almostasneutralincleancolours,andpositiveindirtyones,asby-streetsinLondon;andthereisonequarter,commonlycalledtheFivePoints,which,inrespectoffilthandwretchedness,maybesafelybackedagainstSevenDials,oranyotherpartoffamedSt。Giles\'s。

  Thegreatpromenadeandthoroughfare,asmostpeopleknow,isBroadway;awideandbustlingstreet,which,fromtheBatteryGardenstoitsoppositeterminationinacountryroad,maybefourmileslong。ShallwesitdowninanupperflooroftheCarltonHouseHotelsituatedinthebestpartofthismainarteryofNewYork,andwhenwearetiredoflookingdownuponthelifebelow,sallyfortharm-in-arm,andminglewiththestream?

  Warmweather!Thesunstrikesuponourheadsatthisopenwindow,asthoughitsrayswereconcentratedthroughaburning-glass;butthedayisinitszenith,andtheseasonanunusualone。WasthereeversuchasunnystreetasthisBroadway!Thepavementstonesarepolishedwiththetreadoffeetuntiltheyshineagain;theredbricksofthehousesmightbeyetinthedry,hotkilns;andtheroofsofthoseomnibuseslookasthough,ifwaterwerepouredonthem,theywouldhissandsmoke,andsmelllikehalf-quenchedfires。Nostintofomnibuseshere!Half-a-dozenhavegonebywithinasmanyminutes。Plentyofhackneycabsandcoachestoo;

  gigs,phaetons,large-wheeledtilburies,andprivatecarriages-

  ratherofaclumsymake,andnotverydifferentfromthepublicvehicles,butbuiltfortheheavyroadsbeyondthecitypavement。

  Negrocoachmenandwhite;instrawhats,blackhats,whitehats,glazedcaps,furcaps;incoatsofdrab,black,brown,green,blue,nankeen,stripedjeanandlinen;andthere,inthatoneinstancelookwhileitpasses,oritwillbetoolate,insuitsoflivery。

  Somesouthernrepublicanthat,whoputshisblacksinuniform,andswellswithSultanpompandpower。Yonder,wherethatphaetonwiththewell-clippedpairofgrayshasstopped-standingattheirheadsnow-isaYorkshiregroom,whohasnotbeenverylongintheseparts,andlookssorrowfullyroundforacompanionpairoftop-boots,whichhemaytraversethecityhalfayearwithoutmeeting。Heavensavetheladies,howtheydress!Wehaveseenmorecoloursinthesetenminutes,thanweshouldhaveseenelsewhere,inasmanydays。Whatvariousparasols!whatrainbowsilksandsatins!whatpinkingofthinstockings,andpinchingofthinshoes,andflutteringofribbonsandsilktassels,anddisplayofrichcloakswithgaudyhoodsandlinings!Theyounggentlemenarefond,yousee,ofturningdowntheirshirt-collarsandcultivatingtheirwhiskers,especiallyunderthechin;buttheycannotapproachtheladiesintheirdressorbearing,being,tosaythetruth,humanityofquiteanothersort。Byronsofthedeskandcounter,passon,andletusseewhatkindofmenthosearebehindye:thosetwolabourersinholidayclothes,ofwhomonecarriesinhishandacrumpledscrapofpaperfromwhichhetriestospelloutahardname,whiletheotherlooksaboutforitonallthedoorsandwindows。

  Irishmenboth!Youmightknowthem,iftheyweremasked,bytheirlong-tailedbluecoatsandbrightbuttons,andtheirdrabtrousers,whichtheywearlikemenwellusedtoworkingdresses,whoareeasyinnoothers。Itwouldbehardtokeepyourmodelrepublicsgoing,withoutthecountrymenandcountrywomenofthosetwolabourers。

  Forwhoelsewoulddig,anddelve,anddrudge,anddodomesticwork,andmakecanalsandroads,andexecutegreatlinesofInternalImprovement!Irishmenboth,andsorelypuzzledtoo,tofindoutwhattheyseek。Letusgodown,andhelpthem,fortheloveofhome,andthatspiritoflibertywhichadmitsofhonestservicetohonestmen,andhonestworkforhonestbread,nomatterwhatitbe。

  That\'swell!Wehavegotattherightaddressatlast,thoughitiswritteninstrangecharacterstruly,andmighthavebeenscrawledwiththeblunthandleofthespadethewriterbetterknowstheuseof,thanapen。Theirwayliesyonder,butwhatbusinesstakesthemthere?Theycarrysavings:tohoardup?No。Theyarebrothers,thosemen。Onecrossedtheseaalone,andworkingveryhardforonehalfyear,andlivingharder,savedfundsenoughtobringtheotherout。Thatdone,theyworkedtogethersidebyside,contentedlysharinghardlabourandhardlivingforanotherterm,andthentheirsisterscame,andthenanotherbrother,andlastly,theiroldmother。Andwhatnow?Why,thepooroldcroneisrestlessinastrangeland,andyearnstolayherbones,shesays,amongherpeopleintheoldgraveyardathome:andsotheygotopayherpassageback:andGodhelpherandthem,andeverysimpleheart,andallwhoturntotheJerusalemoftheiryoungerdays,andhaveanaltar-fireuponthecoldhearthoftheirfathers。

  Thisnarrowthoroughfare,bakingandblisteringinthesun,isWallStreet:theStockExchangeandLombardStreetofNewYork。Manyarapidfortunehasbeenmadeinthisstreet,andmanyanolessrapidruin。Someoftheseverymerchantswhomyouseehangingaboutherenow,havelockedupmoneyintheirstrong-boxes,likethemanintheArabianNights,andopeningthemagain,havefoundbutwitheredleaves。Below,herebythewater-side,wherethebowspritsofshipsstretchacrossthefootway,andalmostthrustthemselvesintothewindows,liethenobleAmericanvesselswhichhavingmadetheirPacketServicethefinestintheworld。Theyhavebroughthithertheforeignerswhoaboundinallthestreets:

  not,perhaps,thattherearemorehere,thaninothercommercialcities;butelsewhere,theyhaveparticularhaunts,andyoumustfindthemout;here,theypervadethetown。

  WemustcrossBroadwayagain;gainingsomerefreshmentfromtheheat,inthesightofthegreatblocksofcleanicewhicharebeingcarriedintoshopsandbar-rooms;andthepine-applesandwater-

  melonsprofuselydisplayedforsale。Finestreetsofspacioushouseshere,yousee!-WallStreethasfurnishedanddismantledmanyofthemveryoften-andhereadeepgreenleafysquare。Besurethatisahospitablehousewithinmatestobeaffectionatelyrememberedalways,wheretheyhavetheopendoorandprettyshowofplantswithin,andwherethechildwithlaughingeyesispeepingoutofwindowatthelittledogbelow。Youwonderwhatmaybetheuseofthistallflagstaffintheby-street,withsomethinglikeLiberty\'shead-dressonitstop:sodoI。Butthereisapassionfortallflagstaffshereabout,andyoumayseeitstwinbrotherinfiveminutes,ifyouhaveamind。

  AgainacrossBroadway,andso-passingfromthemany-colouredcrowdandglitteringshops-intoanotherlongmainstreet,theBowery。Arailroadyonder,see,wheretwostouthorsestrotalong,drawingascoreortwoofpeopleandagreatwoodenark,withease。

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