theactionwasexactlythatofonewhowassaying，\"Idon\'tparticularlywantitmyself，butI\'mnotgoingtoletyouhaveit。\"
Presentlysomecacciatoricamewithapoodle-dog。Theyexplainedtousthatthoughthepoodlewas\"atrulyhuntingdog，\"hewouldnottouchthesparrows，whichtodohimjusticehedidnot。Therewasatamejayalso，likethesparrowsgoingaboutloose，but，likethem，awarewhenhewaswelloff。
Afterdinnerwewentuptothecastle，whichIhavenowvisitedoffandonformanyyears，andlikealwaysbetterandbettereachtimeIgothere。Iknownoplacecomparabletoitinitsownway。I
knownoplacesopathetic，andyetsoimpressive，initsdecay。Itisnotaruin——allruinsarefrauds——itisonlydecayed。ItisakindofStokesayorIghthamMote，betterpreservedthanthefirst，andlessfurnishedthanthesecond，butonagranderscalethaneither，andsetinincomparablyfinersurroundings。Thepathtowardsitpassesthechurch，whichhasbeenspoiled。OutsidethistherearepartsofoldRomancolumnsfromsometemple，stuckintheground；insidearetwostatuescalledSt。PeterandSt。Paul，butevidentlyeffigiesofsomemagistratesintheRomantimes。Ifthetravellerlikestocontinuetheroadpastthechurchforthree-
quartersofamileorso，hewillgetafineviewofthecastle，andifhegoesuptothelittlechapelofS。Quiricoonthetopofthehillonhisrighthand，hewilllookdownuponitanduponArona。Wewillsuppose，however，thathegoesstraightforthecastleitself；everymomentasheapproachesit，itwillseemfinerandfiner；presentlyhewillturnintoavineyardonhisleft，andatoncebegintoclimb。
Passingundertheoldgateway——withitsportcullisstillreadytobedropped，ifneedbe，andwiththeironplatesthatsheatheitpiercedwithbullets——asatS。Michele，thevisitorentersatonceuponaterracefromwhichthetwoforegoingillustrationsweretaken。Iknownothinglikethisterrace。Onasummer\'safternoonandeveningitisfullyshaded，thesunbeingbehindthecastle。
Thelakeandtownbelowarestillinsunlight。This，Ithink，isaboutthebesttimetoseethecastle——sayfromsixtoeightonaJulyevening，oratanyhouronagrayday。
CountBorromeo，towhomthecastlebelongs，allowsittobeshown，andvisitorsarenumerous。Thereisverylittlefurnitureinsidetherooms，andthelittlethereisisdecaying；thewallsarecoveredwithpictures，mostlycopies，andnoneofthemofanygreatmerit，buttheroomsthemselvesarelovely。HereisasketchoftheoneinwhichSanCarloBorromeowasborn，buttheoneonthefloorbeneathisbetterstill。Thewholeofthispartwasbuiltabouttheyear1350，andinside，wheretheweatherhasnotreached，thestonesareassharpasiftheyhadbeencutyesterday。ItwasinthegreatSalaofthiscastlethattherisingagainsttheAustriansin1848wasplanned；thenthereistheSaladiGiustizia，afineroom，withtheremainsoffrescoes；theroofandthetowershouldalsocertainlybevisited。Allissolidandreal，yetitislikeanItalianoperainactuallife。Lastly，thereisthekitchen，wherethewheelstillremainsinwhichaturnspitdogusedtobeputtoturnitandroastthemeat；butthisroomisnotshowntostrangers。
Theinnercourtofthecastleisasbeautifulastheouterone。
Throughtheopendooronecatchesglimpsesoftheterrace，andofthelakebeyondit。IknowIghtham，Hever，andStokesay，bothinsideandout，andIknowtheoutsideofLeeds；theseareallofthemexquisitelybeautiful，butneithertheynoranyothersuchplacethatIhaveeverseenpleasemeasmuchasthecastleofAngera。
WestayedtalkingtomyoldfriendSignorSignorelli，thecustodeofthecastle，andhisfamily，andsketchingupontheterraceuntilToniocametotellusthathisboatwasatthequaywaitingforus。
Tonioisnowaboutfourteenyearsold，butwasonlyfourwhenI
firsthadthepleasureofmakinghisacquaintance。HeissontoGiovanni，orasheismorecommonlycalled，Giovannino，aboatmanofArona。Theboyisdeservedlyagreatfavourite，andisnowapadronewithaboatofhisown，fromwhichhecangetagoodliving。
Hepulledusacrossthewarmandsleepylake，sofarthemostbeautifulofalleventheItalianlakes；aswenearedArona，andthewallthatrunsalongthelakebecamemoreplain，IcouldnothelpthinkingofwhatGiovannihadtoldmeaboutitsomeyearsbefore，whenToniowaslyingcurledup，alittlemiteofanobject，inthebottomoftheboat。HewasextollingacertainfamilyofpeasantswholivenearthecastleofAngera，asbeingmodelsofeverythingafamilyoughttobe。\"There，\"hesaid，\"thechildrendonotspeakatmeal-times，thepolentaisputuponthetable，andeachtakesexactlywhatisgivenhim，eventhoughoneofthechildrenthinksanotherhasgotalargerhelpingthanhehas，hewilleathispieceinsilence。Mychildrenarenotlikethat；ifMariettathinksIrenehasabiggerpiecethanshehas，shewillleavetheroomandgotothewall。\"
\"What，\"Iasked，\"doesshegotothewallfor？\"
\"Oh!tocry；allthechildrengotothewalltocry。\"
IthoughtofHezekiah。Thewallisthecryingplace，playing，loungingplace，andagreatdealmore，ofallthehousesinitsvicinity。Itisthecommondrawing-roomduringthesummermonths；
iftheweatheristoosultry，aboatmanwillleavehisbedandfinishthenightonhisbackuponitsbroadcoping；wewholiveinacolderclimatecanhardlyunderstandhowgreatablankintheexistenceofthesepeoplethedestructionofthewallwouldbe。
WesoonreachedArona，andinafewminuteswereinthatkindandhospitablehousetheHoteld\'Italia，thanwhichnobetterhotelistobefoundinItaly。
AronaiscoolerthanAngera。Theproverbsays，\"Hewhowouldknowthepainsoftheinfernalregions，couldgotoAngerainthesummerandtoAronainthewinter。\"Theneighbourhoodisexquisite。
Unlessduringtheextremeheatofsummer，itisthebestplacetostayatontheLagoMaggiore。TheMonteMotteroneiswithinthecompassofasingleday\'sexcursion；thereisOrta，also，andVaralloeasilyaccessible，andanynumberofdrivesandnearerexcursionswhetherbyboatorcarriage。
OnedaywemadeToniotakeustoCastellettonearSestoCalende，tohearthebells。TheyringthebellsverybeautifullyatVogogna，but，unlessmyrecollectionofagoodmanyyearsagofailsme，atCastellettotheyringthembetterstill。
AtVogogna，whileweweregettingourbreakfast，weheardthebellsstrikeupasfollows，fromacampanileonthesideofthehill:-
[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
Theydidthisbecauseababyhadjustdied，butweweretolditwasnothingtowhattheywouldhavedoneifithadbeenagrown-upperson。
AtCastellettoweweredisappointed；thebellsdidnotringthatmorning；wehintedatthepossibilityofpayingasmallfeetotheringerandgettinghimtoringthem，butweretoldthat\"lagente\"
wouldnotatallapproveofthis，andsoIwasunabletotakedownthechimesatCastellettoasIhadintendedtodo。ImaysaythatIhadavisitfromsomeItalianfriendsafewyearsago，andfoundthemhardlylessdelightedwithourEnglishmodeofringingthanI
hadbeenwiththeirs。ItwouldbeveryniceifwecouldringourbellssometimesintheEnglishandsometimesintheItalianway。
WhenIsaytheItalianway——Ishouldsaythatthecustomofringing，asabovedescribed，isnotacommonone——IhaveonlyhearditatVogognaandCastelletto，thoughdoubtlessitprevailselsewhere。
Weweretoldthatthepeopletakeagooddealofprideintheirbells，andthatonevillagewillbejealousofanother，andconsideritselfmoreorlessinsultedifthebellsofthatothercanbeheardmoreplainlythanitsowncanbeheardbackagain。
TherearetwovillagesintheBrianzacalledBalzanoandCremella；
thedisputebetweenthesegrewsohotthateachofthemchangedtheirbellsthreetimes，soastotryandbeheardtheloudest。I
believeanhonourablecompromisewasintheendarrivedat。
InotherrespectsCastellettoisaquiet，sleepylittleplace。TheTicinoflowsthroughitjustafterleavingthelake。Itisverywidehere，andwhenfloodedmustcarrydownanenormousquantityofwater。Bargesgodownitatalltimes，buttheriverisdifficultofnavigationandrequiresskilfulpilots。Thesepilotsarewellpaid，andTonioseemedtohaveagreatrespectforthem。TheviewsofMonteRosaaresuperb。
OneofthegreatadvantagesofArona，asofMendrisio，isthatitcommandssuchanumberofotherplaces。ThereisrailtoMilan，andagaintoNovara，andeachstationonthewayisasub-centre；
therearealsothesteamersonthelake，andthereisnotavillageatwhichtheystopwhichwillnotrepayexamination，andwhichisnotinitsturnasub-centre。InEnglandIhavefoundbyexperiencethatthereisnothingforitbuttoexamineeveryvillageandtownwithineasyrailwaydistance；nobooksareofmuchuse:oneneverknowsthatsomethinggoodisnotgoingtobesprunguponone，andfewindeedaretheplaceswherethereisnooldpublic-house，oroverhangingcottage，orfarmhouseandbarn，orbitofDeHooghe-likeentrywhich，ifonehadtwoorthreelives，onewouldnotwillinglyleaveunpainted。ItisjustthesameinNorthItaly；thereisnotavillagewhichcanbepassedoverwithalightheart。
CHAPTERXXIV——LocarnoWewereattractedtoLocarnobytheapproachingfetesinhonourofthefourthcentenaryoftheapparitionoftheVirginMarytoFraBartolomeodaIvrea，whofoundedthesanctuaryinconsequence。
Theprogrammeannouncedthatthefestivitieswouldbeginon，Saturday，at3。30P。M。，withthecarryingofthesacredimagesacrosimulacrooftheVirginfromtheMadonnadelSassotothecollegiatechurchofS。Antonio。Therewouldthenbeabenedictionandcelebrationoftheholycommunion。Ateighto\'clockthereweretobeilluminations，fireworks，balloons，&c。，atthesanctuaryandtheadjacentpremises。
OnSundayathalf-pastninetherewastobemassatthechurchofS。Antonio，withahomilybyMonsignorPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainpartibus，andblessingofthecrownsentbyPopeLeoXIIIfortheoccasion。S。AntonioisthechurchtheroofofwhichfellinduringserviceoneSundayin1865，throughtheweightofthesnow，killingsixtypeople。Athalf-pastthreeagrandprocessionwouldconveytheHolyImagetoaprettytemplewhichhadbeenerectedinthemarket-place。TheimagewasthentobecrownedbythePatriarch，carriedroundthetowninprocession，andreturnedtothechurchofS。Antonio。Ateighto\'clockthereweretobefireworksneartheport；agrandilluminationofatriumphalarch，anilluminationofthesanctuaryandchapelswithBengallights，andanartificialapparitionoftheMadonnaApparizioneartificialedellaBeataVerginecolBambinoabovethechurchupontheSacroMonte。NextdaytheHolyImagewastobecarriedbackfromthechurchofS。Antoniotoitsnormalresting-
placeatthesanctuary。Wewantedtoseeallthis，butitwastheartificialapparitionoftheMadonnathatmostattractedus。
Locarnois，aseveryoneknows，abeautifultown。BoththeHotelLocarnoandtheHoteldellaCoronaaregood，butthelatteris，I
believe，thecheaper。AtthecastellothereisafrescooftheMadonna，ascribed，Ishouldthinkrightly，toBernardinoLuini，andatthecemeteryoutsidethetowntherearesomeoldfrescoesofthesecondhalfofthefifteenthcentury，inaruinousstate，butinteresting。IfIrememberrightlythereareseveraldatesonthem，averaging1475-80。TheymighteasilyhavebeendonebythesamemanwhodidthefrescoesatMesocco，butIprefertheselast。
Thegreatfeature，however，ofLocarnoistheSacroMontewhichrisesaboveit。Fromthewoodenbridgewhichcrossesthestreamjustbeforeenteringuponthesacredprecincts，thechurchandchapelsandroadarrangethemselvesasonp。269。
Onthewayup，keepingtothesteeperandabrupterroute，onecatchessightofthemonks\'garden——alittleparadisewithvines，beehives，onions，lettuces，cabbages，marigoldstocolourtherisottowith，andalittleplotofgreatluxurianttobaccoplants。
Amongstthefoliagemaybenowandagainseentheburlyfigureofamonkwithastrawhaton。ThebestviewofthesanctuaryfromaboveistheonewhichIgiveonp。270。
Thechurchitselfisnotremarkable，butitcontainsthebestcollectionofvotivepicturesthatIknowinanychurch，unlesstheoneatOropabeexcepted；thereisalsoamodernItalian\"ReturnfromtheCross\"byCiseri，whichisverymuchadmired，butwithwhichIhavemyselfnosympathywhatever。ItisanAcademypicture。
Thecloisterlookingoverthelakeisverybeautiful。Inthelittlecourtdownbelow——whichalsoisofgreatbeauty——thereisachapelcontainingarepresentationoftheLastSupperinlife-sizedcolouredstatuesasatVarallo，whichhasagooddealoffeeling，andafresco？behinditwhichoughttobeexamined，butthechapelissodarkthatthisiseasiersaidthandone。Thereisalsoafrescodownbelowinthechapelwherethefounderofthesanctuaryisburiedwhichshouldnotbepassedover。Itisdated1522，andisLuinesqueincharacter。WhenIwaslastthere，however，itwashardlypossibletoseeanything，foreverythingwasbeingturnedtopsy-turvybythearrangementswhichwerebeingmadefortheapproachingfetes。Thesewereverygayandpretty；theymusthavecostagreatdealofmoney，andIwastoldthatthemunicipalityinitscollectivecapacitywasthoughtmean，becauseithadrefusedtocontributemorethan100francs，or4poundssterling。Itdoesseemratherasmallsumcertainly。
OntheafternoonofFridaythe13thofAugustthePatriarchMonsignorBalleriniwastoarrivebythethreeo\'clockboat，andtherewasacrowdtowelcomehim。ThemusicofLocarnowasonthequayplayingaselection，notfrom\"MadameAngot\"itself，butfromsomethingverylikeit——light，gay，sparklingoperabouffe——towelcomehim。IfeltasIhaddonewhenIfoundthematchboxinthesanctuarybedroomatGraglia:notthatImindeditmyself，butasbeingalittleunhappylesttheBishopmightnotquitelikeit。
Idonotseehowwecouldwelcomeabishop——wewillsaytoaconfirmation——withabandofmusicatall。FancyabrassbandofsometwentyorthirtyrangedroundthelandingstageatGravesendtowelcometheBishopofLondon，andfancytheirplayingwewillsay\"ThetwoObadiahs，\"orthathorridsongabouttheswinggoingalittlebithigher!TheBishopwouldbeverymuchoffended。Hewouldnotgoamusicalinchbeyondthemarchin\"LeProphete，\"nor，willingly，beyondthemarchin\"Athalie。\"MonsignorBallerini，however，neverturnedahair；hebowedrepeatedlytoallroundhim，anddroveoffinacarriageandpair，apparentlymuchpleasedwithhisreception。WeProtestantsdonotunderstand，nortakeanyverygreatpainstounderstand，theChurchofRome。Ifwedid，weshouldfindittobeinmanyrespectsasmuchinadvanceofusasitisbehindusinothers。
Onethingmadeanimpressionuponmewhichhauntedmeallthetime。
Oneveryimportantspacetherewereadvertisementsoftheprogramme，thesubstanceofwhichIhavealreadygiven。Buthardly，ifatalllessnoticeable，weretwootherswhichroseupirrepressibleuponeveryprominentspace，searchingallplaceswithasubtlepenetrativepoweragainstwhichprecautionswerepowerless。TheseadvertisementswerenotinItalianbutinEnglish，neverthelesstheywereneitherofthemEnglish——butboth，Ibelieve，American。TheonewasthatoftheRichmondGemcigarette，withthelargeillustrationrepresentingamaninahatsmoking，sofamiliartoushereinLondon。TheotherwasthatofWheeler&Wilson\'ssewingmachines。
AsthePatriarchdroveoffinthecarriagethemaninthehatsmokingtheRichmondGemcigaretteleeredathim，andthewomanworkingWheeler&Wilson\'ssewingmachinesewedathim。Duringtheilluminationstheunwontedlightthrewitsglareupontheeffigiesofsaintsandangels，butitilluminedalsothemanintheblackfelthatandthewomanwiththesewingmachine；evenduringtheartificialapparitionoftheVirginMaryherselfuponthehillbehindthetown，themoretheyletofffireworksthemoreclearlythemaninthehatcameoutuponthewallsroundthemarket-place，andtheblandimperturbablewomanworkingathersewingmachine。I
thoughttomyselfthatwhenthemanwiththehatappearedinthepiazzatheMadonnawoulderelongceasetoappearonthehill。
Lateron，passingthroughthetownalone，whenthepeoplehadgonetorest，Isawmanyofthemlyingonthepavementunderthearchesfastasleep。Abrilliantmoonilluminatedthemarket-place；therewasapleasantsoundoffallingwaterfromthefountain；thelakewasbathedinsplendour，savewhereittookthereflectionofthemountains——sopeacefulandquietwasthenightthattherewashardlyarustleintheleavesoftheaspens。Butwhetherinmoonlightorinshadow，thebusypersistentvibrationsthatriseinAnglo-Saxonbrainswereradiatingfromeverywall，andthemanintheblackfelthatandtheblandladywiththesewingmachinewerethere——lyinginwait，asacatoveramouse\'shole，toinsinuatethemselvesintotheheartsofthepeoplesosoonastheyshouldwake。
Greatnumberscametothefestivities。TherewerespecialtrainsfromBiascaandallintermediatestations，andspecialboats。Andtheuglyflat-nosedpeoplecamefromtheValVerzasca，andthebeautifulpeoplecamefromtheValOnsernoneandtheValMaggia，andIsawAnna，thecurate\'shousekeeper，fromMesocco，andtheoldfrescopainterwhotoldmeheshouldliketopaymeavisit，andsuggestedfiveo\'clockinthemorningasthemostappropriateandconvenienttime。Thegreatprocessioncontainedsevenoreighthundredpeople。FromthebalconyoftheHoteldellaCoronaI
countedaswellasIcouldandobtainedthefollowingresult:-
Women120
Menwithwhiteshirtsandredcapes85
Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes？
ThemusicfromIntra30
Menwithwhiteshirtsandbluecapes25
Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes25
Menwithwhiteshirtsandgreencapes12
Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes36
ThemusicofLocarno30
Girlsinblue，pink，whiteandyellow，red，white50
Choristers3
Monks6
Priests66
Canons12
HisExcellencyPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainEgypt，escortedbythefiremen，andhisprivatecortegeofabout2025
Governmentushers？
TheGrandCouncil，escortedby22
soldiersand6policemen28
Theclergywithoutorders30
583
Intheevening，there，sureenough，theapparitionoftheBlessedVirginwas。ThechurchoftheMadonnawasunilluminatedandallindarkness，whenonasuddenitsprangoutintoablaze，andagreattransparencyoftheVirginandchildwaslitupfrombehind。Thenthepeoplesaid，\"Ohbel!\"
Iwasmyselfalittledisappointed。Itwasnotagoodapparition，andIthinktheeffectwouldhavebeenbetterifithadbeencarriedupbyasmallballoonintothesky。Itmighteasilyhavebeenarrangedsothatthelightbehindthetransparencyshoulddieoutbeforetheapparitionmustfallagain，andalsothatthelightinsidethetransparencyshouldnotbereflectedupontheballoonthatliftedit；thewhole，therefore，wouldappeartorisefromitsowninherentbuoyancy。IamconfidentitwouldhavebeenarrangedinthiswayifthethinghadbeeninthehandsoftheCrystalPalacepeople。
ThereisafineoldbasilicatechurchdedicatedtoS。VittoreatthenorthendofLocarno。Itisthemotherchurchofthesepartsanddatesfromtheeighthorninthcentury。Thefrescoesinsidetheapsewereoncefine，buthavebeenrepaintedandspoiled。Thetowerismuchlater，butisimpressive。Itwasbegunin1524andleftincompletein1527，probablyowingtothehighpriceofprovisionswhichiscommemoratedinthefollowingwordswrittenonastoneatthetopofthetowerinside1527
Furm。[fromento——corn]costlib。6。
Segale[barley]lib。5。
Milio[millet]lib。4。
Isupposetheseweresomethinglikefamineprices；atanyrate，aworkmanwrotethisuponthetowerandthetowerstopped。
CHAPTERXXV——FusioWeleftLocarnobytheconveyancewhichleaveseverydayatfouro\'clockforBignasco，arideofaboutfourhours。ThePonteBrolla，acoupleofmilesoutofLocarno，isremarkable，andtheroadisthroughoutasamatterofcoursegood。Isatnextanoldpriest，anexcellentkindlyman，whotalkedfreelywithme，andscoldedmeroundlyforbeingaProtestantmorethanonce。
HeseemedmuchsurprisedwhenIdiscardedreasonasthefoundationofourbelief。HehadmadeuphismindthatallProtestantsbasedtheirconvictionsuponreason，andwasnotpreparedtohearmegoheartilywithhimindeclaringthefoundationofanydurablesystemtolieinfaith。When，however，itcametorequiringmetohavefaithinwhatseemedgoodtohimandhisfriends，ratherthantomeandmine，wedidnotagreesowell。Hethenbegantoshakedeathatme；ImethimwithareflectionthatIhaveneverseeninprint，thoughitissoobviousthatitmusthaveoccurredtoeachoneofmyreaders。Isaidthateverymanisanimmortaltohimself:heonlydiesasfarasothersareconcerned；tohimselfhecannot，byanyconceivablepossibility，doso。ForhowcanheknowthatheisdeaduntilheISdead？AndwhenheISdead，howcanheknowthatheisdead？Ifhedoes，itisanabuseoftermstosaythatheisdead。Amancanknownomoreabouttheendofhislifethanhedidaboutthebeginning。Themosthorribleandloatheddeathstillresolvesitselfintobeingbadlyfrightened，andnotalittlehurttowardstheendofone\'slife，butitcannevercometobeingunbearablyhurtforlongtogether。Besides，weareatalltimes，evenduringlife，deadanddyingtobyfarthegreaterpartofourpastselves。Whatwecalldyingisonlydyingtothebalance，orresiduum。Thismadethepriestangry。Hefoldedhisarmsandsaid，\"Basta，basta，\"nordidhespeaktomeagain。ItisbecauseInoticedtheeffectitproduceduponmyfellow-passengerthatI
introduceithere。
BignascoisattheconfluenceofthetwomainbranchesoftheMaggia。ThegreaterpartoftherivercomesdownfromtheglacierofBasodino，whichcannotbeseenfromBignasco；IknownothingofthisvalleybeyondhavingseentheglacierfromthetopofthepassbetweenFusioandDalpe。ThesmallerhalfoftherivercomesdownfromFusio，thevalleyofSambucco，andthelakeofNaret。TheaccommodationatBignascoisquiteenoughforabachelor；thepeoplearegood，buttheinnishomely。FromBignascotheroadascendsrapidlytoPeccia，avillagewhichhassufferedterriblyfrominundations，andfromPecciaitascendsmorerapidlystill——
FusiobeingreachedinaboutthreehoursfromBignasco。ThereisanexcellentinnatFusiokeptbySignorDazio，towhoseenergytheadmirablemountainroadfromPecciaismainlydue。Ontherightjustbeforehecrossesthebridge，thetravellerwillnotethefrescooftheCrucifixion，whichIhavementionedatpage140。
Fusioisover4200feetabovethelevelofthesea。Idonotknowwhereinitspeculiarcharmlies，butitisthebestofallthevillagesofakindredcharacterthatIknow。Belowisasketchofitasitappearsfromthecemetery。
Thereisanothergoodviewfrombehindthevillage；atsunsetthissecondviewbecomesremarkablyfine。Thehousesareindeepcoolshadow，butthemountainsbehindtaketheeveningsun，andaresometimesofanincrediblesplendour。Itisfinetowatchtheshadowscreepingupthem，andthecolourthatremainsgrowingricherandricheruntilthewholeisextinguished；thisview，however，Iamunabletogive。
IholdSignorDazioofFusiosomuchasoneofmymostparticularandvaluedfriends，andIhavesuchspecialaffectionforFusioitself，thatthereadermustbearinmindthatheisreadinganaccountgivenbyapartialwitness。Nevertheless，allprivatepreferencesapart，IthinkhewillfindFusioahardplacetobeat。
AttheendofJuneandinJulytheflowersareattheirbest，andtheyaremorevariedandbeautifulthananywhereelseIknow。AttheveryendofJulyandthebeginningofAugustthepeoplecuttheirhay，andthenforawhilethegloryoftheplaceisgone，butbytheendofAugustorthebeginningofSeptemberthegrasshasgrownlongenoughtore-covertheslopeswithavelvetyverdure，andthoughtheflowersareshorn，yetsotheyarefromotherplacesalso。
Therearemanywalksintheneighbourhoodforthosewhodonotmindmountainpaths。ThemostbeautifulofthemallistothevalleyofSambucco，theupperendwhichisnotmorethanhalf-an-hourfromSignorDazio\'shotel。Forsometimeonekeepstothepaththroughthewoodedgorge，andwiththeriverfoamingfarbelow；inearlymorningwhilethispathisinshade，or，again，aftersunset，itisoneofthemostbeautifulofitskindthatIknow。Afterawhileagateisreached，andanopenuplandvalleyisenteredupon——
evidentlyanoldlakefilledup，andneitherverybroadnorverylong，butgrassedallover，andwiththeriverwindingthroughitlikeanEnglishbrook。ThisisthevalleyofSambucco。Therearetwocollectionsofstalleforthecattle，ormonti——oneatthenearerendandtheotheratthefarther。
Thefloorofthevalleycanhardlybelessthan5000feetabovethesea。IshallneverforgetthepleasurewithwhichIfirstcameuponit。Ihadlongwantedanidealuplandvalley；asageneralrulehighvalleysaretoonarrow，andhavelittleornolevelground。IftheyhaveanyatallthereoftenistoomuchaswiththeonewhereAndermattandHospenthalare——whichwouldinsomerespectsdoverywell——andtoomuchcultivated，anddonotshowtheirheight。AnuplandvalleyshouldfirstofallbeinanItalian-speakingcountry；thenitshouldhaveasmooth，grassy，perfectlylevelfloorofsayneithermuchmorenorlessthanahundredandfiftyyardsinbreadthandhalf-a-mileinlength。A
smallrivershouldgobabblingthroughitwithoccasionalsmoothparts，soastotakethereflectionsofthesurroundingmountains。
Itshouldhavethreeorfourfinelarchesorpinesscatteredaboutithereandthere，butnotmore。Itshouldbecompletelyland-
locked，andthereshouldbenothinginthewayofhumanhandiworksaveafewchalets，orasmallchapelandabridge，butnotilledlandwhatever。Hereoveninsummertheeveningairwillbecrisp，andthedewwillformassoonasthesungoesoff；butthemountainsatoneendofitwillkeepthelastraysofthesun。Itisthenthevalleyisatitsbest，especiallyifthegoatsandcattlearecomingtogethertobemilked。
ThevalleyofSambuccohasallthisandagreatdealmore，tosaynothingofthefactthatthereareexcellenttroutinit。Ihaveshownittofriendsatdifferenttimes，andtheyhaveallagreedwithmethatforavalleyneithertoohighnortoolow，nortoobignortoolittle，thevalleyofSambuccoisoneofthebestthatanyofusknowof——Imeantolookatandenjoy，forIsupposeasregardspaintingitishopeless。Ithinkitcanbewellrenderedbythefollowingpieceofmusicasbyanythingelse:-{33}
[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
OnedaySignorDaziobroughtusinachamoisfoot。Heexplainedtousthatchamoiswerenowinseason，butthatevenwhentheywerenot，theyweresometimestobehad，inasmuchastheyoccasionallyfellfromtherocksandgotkilled。Aswelookedatitwecouldnothelpreflectingthat，wonderfulastheprovisionsofanimalandvegetableorganismsoftenare，themarvelsofadaptationaresometimesalmostexceededbythefeatswhichananimalwillperformwithaverysimpleandevenclumsyinstrumentifitknowshowtouseit。Achamoisfootisasmoothandslipperything，suchasnorespectablebootmakerwoulddreamofofferingtoamountaineer:
thereisnotanailinit，norevenanapologyforanail；thesurefootednessofitsownerisanassumptiononly——apieceoffaithorimpudencewhichfulfilsitself。Ifsomeotheranimalweretoinducethechamoistobelievethatitshouldattheleasthavefeetwithsuckerstothem，likeafly，beforeventuringinsuchbreakneckplaces，orifbyanymeansitcouldgettoknowhowbadafootitreallyhas，therewouldsoonbenomorechamois。Thechamoiscontinuestoexistthroughitsabsoluterefusaltohearreasonuponthematter。Butthewholequestionisoneofextremeintricacy；allweknowisthatsomeanimalsandplants，likesomemen，devotegreatpainstotheperfectionofthemechanismwithwhichtheywishtowork，whileothersratherscornappliances，andconcentratetheirattentionupontheskilfuluseofwhatevertheyhappentohave。Ithink，however，thatintheclumsinessofthechamoisfootmustlietheexplanationofthefactthatsometimeswhenchamoisareoutofseason，theydoneverthelessactuallytumbleofftherocksandgetkilled；beingkilled，ofcourseitisonlynaturalthattheyshouldsometimesbefound，andiffound，beeaten；buttheyarenotgoodformuch。
Afteradayortwo\'sstayinthisdelightfulplace，weleftatsixo\'clockonebrilliantmorninginSeptemberforDalpeandFaido，accompaniedbytheexcellentSignorGuglielmoniasguide。TherearetwomainpassesfromFusiointotheValLeventina——theonebytheSasselloGrandetoNanteandAirolo，andtheotherbytheAlpediCampolungotoDalpe。Neithershouldbeattemptedbystrangerswithoutaguide，thoughneitherofthempresentsthesmallestdifficulty。ThereisathirdandlongerpassbytheLagodiNarettoBedretto，butIhaveneverbeenoverthis。Theothertwoarebothgood；onthewhole，however，IthinkIpreferthesecond。
SignorGuglielmoniledusoverthefreshestgrassyslopesconceivable——slopesthatfourorfiveweeksearlierhadbeengaywithtigerandTurk\'s-caplilies，andtheflauntingarnica，andeveryflowerthatlikesmountaincompany。Afterathreehours\'
walkwereachedthetopofthepass，fromwhenceontheonehandonecanseetheBasodinoglacier，andontheotherthegreatRheinwaldglaciersaboveOlivone。OthersmallglaciersshowinvalleysnearBiascawhichIknownothingabout，andwhichIimaginetobealmostaterraincognita，excepttotheinhabitantsofsuchvillagesasMalvagliaintheValBlenio。
Whennearthetopofthepassweheardthewhistleofamarmot。
Guglielmonitoldushehadatameoneoncewhichwasveryfondofhim。Itsleptallthewinter，butturnedroundonceafortnighttoavoidlyingtoolongupononeside。Whenitwokeupfromitswintersleepitnolongerrecognisedhim，butbithimsavagelyrightthroughthefinger；byandbyitsrecollectionreturnedtoit，anditapologised。
Fromthesummit，whichisabout7600feetabovethesea，thepathdescendsovertheroughestgroundthatistobefoundonthewholeroute。Heretherearegoodspecimensofasbestostobepickedupabundantly，andtherocksarefullofgarnets；afteraboutsixorsevenhundredfeettheAlpediCampolungoisreached，andthisagainisanespeciallyfavouriteplacewithme。Itisanoldlakefilledup，surroundedbypeaksandprecipiceswheresomesnowrestsalltheyearround，andtraversedbyastream。Here，justaswehaddonelunching，wewerejoinedbyafamilyofknife-grinders，whowerealsocrossingfromtheValMaggiatotheValLeventina。
Wehadeatenallwehadwithusexceptourbread；thisGuglielmonigavetooneoftheboys，whoseemedasmuchpleasedwithitasifithadbeencake。ThenaftertakingalookattheLagodiTremorgio，abeautifullakesomehundredsoffeetbelow，wewentontotheAlpediCadonighinowhereourguideleftus。
Atthispointpinesbegin，andsoonthepathentersthem；afterawhilewecatchsightofPrato，andeventuallycomedownuponDalpe。
InanotherhourandaquarterFaidoisreached。ThedescenttoFaidofromthesummitofthepassismuchgreaterthantheascentfromFusio，forFaidoisnotmorethan2300feetabovethesea，whereas，asIhavesaid，Fusioisover4200feet。ThedescentfromthetopofthepasstoFaidoisabout5300feet，whiletoFusioitisonly3400。Thereader，therefore，willseethathehadbettergofromFusiotoFaido，andnotviceversa，unlessheisagoodwalker。
FromFaidowereturnedhome。WelookedatnothingbetweenthetopoftheSt。GothardPassandBoulogne，nordidweagainbegintotakeanyinterestinlifetillwesawthescience-ridden，art-
ridden，culture-ridden，afternoon-tea-riddencliffsofOldEnglandriseuponthehorizon。
APPENDIXA——WednesburyCockingSeep。55
Iknownothingofthedateofthisremarkableballad，orthesourcefromwhichitcomes。Ihaveheardonewhoshouldknowsay，thatwhenhewasaboyatShrewsburyschoolitwasdoneintoGreekhexameters，thelineswithavariousreadinginthem:
\"Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldScroggins\'wentjogging；\"
beingtranslated:
[Greektext]
Ihavebeenatsomepainstofindoutmoreaboutthistranslation，buthavefailedtodoso。Theballaditselfisasfollows:
AtWednesburytherewasacocking，AmatchbetweenNewtonandScroggins；
Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldSpittle\'swentjogging。
Toseethisnoblesport，Manynoblemenresorted；
Andthoughthey\'dbutlittlemoney，Yetthatlittletheyfreelysported。
TherewasJefferyandColbornfromHampton，AndDustyfromBilstonwasthere；
FlummeryhecamefromDarlaston，Andhewasasrudeasabear。
TherewasoldWillfromWalsall，AndSmackerfromWestbromwichcome；
BlindRobinhecamefromRowley，Andstaggeringhewenthome。
RalphMoodycamehobblingalong，Asthoughhesomecripplewasmocking，Tojoinintheblackguardthrong，ThatmetatWednesburycocking。
HeborrowedatrifleofDoll，TobackoldTaverner\'sgrey；
Helaidfourpence-halfpennytofourpence，Helostandwentbrokenaway。
Butsoonhereturnedtothepit，Forhe\'dborrowedatriflemoremoney，Andventuredanotherlargebet，AlongwithblobbermouthConey。
WhenConeydemandedhismoney，Asisusualonallsuchoccasions，Hecried，——thee，iftheedon\'tholdthyrattle，I\'llpaytheeasPaulpaidtheEphasians。
Themorning\'ssportbeingover，OldSpittleadinnerproclaimed，Eachmanheshoulddineforagroat，Ifhegrumbledheoughttobe——，Fortherewasplentyofbeef，ButSpittlehesworebyhistroth，ThatneveramanshoulddineTillheatehisnogginofbroth。
Thebeefitwasoldandtough，Offabullthatwasbaitedtodeath，BarneyHydegotalumpinhisthroat，Thathadliketohavestoppedhisbreath，Thecompanyallfellintoconfusion，AtseeingpoorBarneyHydechoke；
Sotheytookhimintothekitchen，Andheldhimoverthesmoke。
Theyheldhimsoclosetothefire，Hefrizzledjustlikeabeef-steak，Theythenthrewhimdownonthefloor，Whichhadliketohavebrokenhisneck。
Onegavehimakickonthestomach，Anotherakickonthebrow，Hiswifesaid，Throwhimintothestable，Andhe\'llbebetterjustnow。
Thentheyallreturnedtothepit，Andthefightingwentforwardagain；
Sixbattleswerefoughtoneachside，Andthenextwastodecidethemain。
FortheyweretwofamouscocksAseverthiscountrybred，Scroggins\'sadark-wingedblack，AndNewton\'sashift-wingedred。
Theconflictwashardonbothsides，TillBrassy\'sblack-wingedwaschoked；
Thecolliersweretarnationlyvexed，Andthenailersweresorelyprovoked。
PeterStevenshesworeagreatoath，ThatScrogginshadplayedhiscockfoul；
Scrogginsgavehimakickonthehead，Andcried，Yea，——thysoul。
Thecompanythenfellindiscord，Abold，boldfightdidensue；-
，-，andbitewastheword，TilltheWalsallmenallweresubdued。
RalphMoodybitoffaman\'snose，Andwishedthathecouldhavehimslain，Sotheytrampledbothcockstodeath，Andtheymadeadrawofthemain。
Thecock-pitwasneartothechurch，Anornamentuntothetown；
Ononesideanoldcoalpit，Theotherwellgorsedaround。
PeterHadleypeepedthroughthegorse，Inordertoseethemfight；
Spittlejobbedouthiseyewithafork，Andsaid，——thee，itservedtheeright。
Somepeoplemaythinkthisstrange，WhoWednesburyneverknew；
Butthosewhohaveeverbeenthere，Willnothavetheleastdoubtit\'strue；
Fortheyareassavagebynature，Andguiltyofdeedsthemostshocking；
JackBakerwhackedhisownfather，AndthusendedWednesburycocking。
APPENDIXB——ReformsInstitutedatS。Micheleintheyear1478Seep。105
ThepalmiestdaysofthesanctuarywereduringthetimethatRodolfodiMontebelloorMombellowasabbot——thatistosay，roughly，betweentheyears1325-60。\"Hisrectorate，\"saysClaretta，\"wasthegoldenageoftheAbbeyofLaChiusa，whichreapedthegloryacquiredbyitsheadinthedifficultnegotiationsentrustedtohimbyhisprinces。Butafterhisdeath，eitherlotorintriguecausedtheelectiontofalluponthosewhopreparedtheruinofoneofthemostancientandillustriousmonasteriesinPiedmont。\"{34}