Abovethispicturetherehangtwoothers——alsoveryinteresting，frombeingexamplesof，asitwere，thelastgroansoftrueartwhilebeingstifledbyacademicism——oritmaybetheattemptatanewbirth，whichwasneverthelessdoomedtoextinctionbyacademicianswhileyetinitsinfancy。SuchpicturesaretobefoundalloverItaly。Sometimes，asinthecaseoftheworkofDedomenici，theyhaveabsolutemerit——morecommonlytheyhavetherelativemeritofshowingthatthepainterwastryingtolookandfeelforhimself，andapicturedoesmuchwhenitconveysthisimpression。Itisasmallstillvoice，which，howeversmall，canbeheardthroughandabovetheroarofcantwhichtriestodrownit。WewantabookabouttheunknownItalianpaintersinout-of-
the-wayItalianvalleysduringthetimesofthedecadenceofart。
Thereisamplematerialforonewhohasthetimeathiscommand。
Welunchedatthehouseoftheincumbent，amonk，whowasverykindtous。WefoundhimdryingFrenchmarigoldblossomstocolourhisrisottowithduringthewinter。Hegaveussomeexcellentwine，andtookusoverthetowernearthechurch。Nothingcanbemorelovelythanthemonk\'sgarden。Ifaestheticpeopleareevergoingtogettiredofsun-flowersandlilies，letmesuggesttothemthattheywillfindawearyutternessinchicoryandseedonionswhichtheyshouldnotoverlook；IneverfeltchicoryandseedonionstillIwasinthemonk\'sgardenatS。MariainCalanca。Allabouttheterraceorartificiallevelgroundonwhichthechurchisplaced，thereareadmirablebitsforpainting，andiftherewasonlyaccommodationsothatonecouldgetupashighasthealpi，IcanfancyfewbetterplacestostayatthanS。MariainCalanca。
CHAPTERXIX——TheMendrisiottoWestayedadayortwoatBellinzona，andthenwentonovertheMonteCeneretoLugano。MyfirstacquaintancewiththeMonteCenerewasmadesomeseven-and-thirtyyearsagowhenIwasasmallboy。IrememberwithwhatdelightIfoundwildnarcissusesgrowinginameadowuponthetopofit，andwasallowedtogatherasmanyasIliked。ItwasnottillsomethirtyyearsafterwardsthatI
againpassedovertheMonteCenereinsummertime，butIwellrememberedthenarcissusplace，andwonderedwhethertherewouldstillbeanyofthemgrowingthere。Sureenoughwhenwegottothetop，theretheywereasthickascowslipsinanEnglishmeadow。AtLugano，havinghalf-an-hourtospare，wepaidourrespectstothegloriousfrescoesbyBernardinoLuini，andtothefacadeoftheduomo，andthenwentontoMendrisio。
TheneighbourhoodofMendrisio，or，asitiscalled，the\"Mendrisiotto，\"isarichone。Mendrisioitselfshouldbetheheadquarters；thereisanexcellenthotelthere，theHotelMendrisio，keptbySignoraPasta，whichcannotbesurpassedforcomfortandallthatmakesahotelpleasanttostayat。Ineversawahousewherethearrangementsweremoreperfect；eveninthehottestweatherIfoundtheroomsalwayscoolandairy，andthenightsneveroppressive。PartofthesecretofthismaybethatMendrisiolieshigherthanitappearstodo，andthehotel，whichissituatedontheslopeofthehill，takesallthebreezethereis。ThelakeofLuganoisabout950feetabovethesea。TheriverfallsrapidlybetweenMendrisioandthelake，whilethehotelishighabovetheriver。Idonotsee，therefore，howthehotelcanbelessthan1200feetabovethesea-line；butwhateverheightitis，Ineverfelttheheatoppressive，thoughonmorethanoneoccasionIhavestayedthereforweekstogetherinJulyandAugust。
MendrisiobeingsituatedontherailwaybetweenLuganoandComo，boththeseplacesarewithineasyreach。Milanisonlyacoupleofhoursoff，andVareseathreeorfourhours\'carriagedrive。ItliesontheverylastslopesoftheAlps，sothatwhetherthevisitorhasafancyformountainsorforthesmilingbeautyofthecolline，hemaybeequallygratified。Thereareexcellentroadsineverydirection，andnoneofthemcanbetakenwithoutitsleadingtosomenewfeatureofinterest；IdonotthinkanyEnglishfamilywillregretspendingafortnightatthischarmingplace。
MostvisitorstoMendrisio，however，makeitaplaceofpassageonly，enrouteforthecelebratedhotelontheMonteGeneroso，keptbyDr。Pasta，SignoraPasta\'sbrother-in-law。TheMonteGenerosoisveryfine；IknowfewplacesofwhichIamfonder；whetheronelooksdownateveninguponthelakeofLuganothousandsoffeetbelow，andthenletstheeyewanderupwardagainandrestupontheghastlypallorofMonteRosa，orwhetheronetakesthepathtotheColmaandsauntersovergreenslopescarpetedwithwild-flowers，andstuddedwiththegentlestcattle，allisequallydelightful。
Whatasenseofvastnessandfreedomisthereonthebroadheavingslopesofthesesubalpinespurs。Theyarejusthighenoughwithoutbeingtoohigh。TheSouthDownsareverygood，andbymakingbelieveverymuchIhavesometimesbeenhalfabletofancywhenuponthemthatImightbeontheMonteGeneroso，buttheyareonlygoodasaquartetisgoodifonecannotgetasymphony。
Ithinktherearemorewild-flowersupontheMonteGenerosothanuponanyotherthatIknow，andamongthemnumbersofbeautifulwildnarcissuses，asontheMonteCenere。AtthetopoftheMonteGeneroso，amongtherocksthatjutoutfromtheherbage，theregrows——unlessithasbeenalluprooted——thelargeyellowauricula，andthisIowntobeingmyfavouritemountainwild-flower。Itistheonlyflowerwhich，Ithink，fairlybeatscowslips。HeretooI
heard，orthoughtIheard，thesongofthatmostbeautifulofallbirdsongsters，thepasserosolitario，orsolitarysparrow-ifitisasparrow，whichIshoulddoubt。
Nobodyknowswhatabirdcandointhewayofsonguntilhehasheardapasserosolitario。IthinktheystillhaveoneattheHotelMendrisio，butamnotsure。Iheardonethereonce，andcanonlysaythatIshalleverrememberitasthemostbeautifulwarblingthatIeverheardcomeoutofthethroatofbird。Allotherbirdsingingisloud，vulgar，andunsympatheticincomparison。Thebirditselfisaboutasbigasastarling，andisofadullbluecolour。Itiseasilytamed，andbecomesverymuchattachedtoitsmasterandmistress，butitisapttodieinconfinementbeforeverylong。Itfightsallothersofitsownspecies；itisnowararebird，andisdoomed，Ifear，erelongtoextinction，totheregretofallwhohavehadthepleasureofitsacquaintance。TheItaliansareveryfondofthem，andProfessorVelatoldmetheywillevenactlikeahousedogandsetupacryifanystrangerscome。TheoneIsawflewinstantlyatmyfingerwhenIputitnearitscage，butIwasnotsurewhetheritdidsoinangerorplay。Ithoughtitlikedbeinglistenedto，andaslongasitchosetosingIwasdelightedtostay，whereasasageneralruleIwantsingingbirdstoleaveoff。{32}
Peoplesaythenightingale\'ssongissobeautiful；Iamashamedtoownit，butIdonotlikeit。Itdoesnotusethediatonicscale。
Abirdshouldeithermakenoattempttosingintune，oritshouldsucceedindoingso。LarksareWordsworth，andasforcanaries，I
wouldalmostsoonerhearapighavingitsnoseringed，orthegrindingofanaxe。Cuckoosareallright；theysingintune。
Rooksarelovely；theydonotpretendtotune。Seagullsagain，andtheplaintivecreaturesthatpitythemselvesonmoorlands，astheploverandthecurlew，orthebirdsthatliftuptheirvoicesandcryateventidewhenthereisaneagerairblowinguponthemountainsandthelastyellowintheskyisfading——Ihavenowordswithwhichtopraisethemusicofthesepeople。Orlistentothechucklingofastringofsoftyoungducks，astheyglidesingle-
filebesideaditchunderahedgerow，soclosetogetherthattheylooklikesomelongbrownserpent，andsaywhatsoundcanbemoreseductive。
ManyyearsagoIrememberthinkingthatthebirdsinNewZealandapproachedthediatonicscalemorenearlythanEuropeanbirdsdo。
Therewasonebird，IthinkitwastheNewZealandthrush，butamnotsure，whichusedtosingthus:-
[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
Iwasalwayswantingittogoon:-
[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
Butitnevergotbeyondthefirstfourbars。ThentherewasanotherwhichInoticedthefirstdayIlanded，morethantwentyyearssince，andwhosesongdescendedbyverynearlyperfectsemitonesasfollows:-
[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]
butthesemitonesarehereandthereinthisbird\'ssongatrifleoutoftune，whereasinthatoftheothertherewasnodeparturefromthediatonicscale。Bethis，however，asitmay，noneofthesepleasemesomuchasthepasserosolitario。
TheonlymammalsthatIcancalltomindatthismomentasshowinganyevenapparentapproachtoanappreciationofthediatonicscalearetheelephantandtherhinoceros。Thebrayingorwhateveristhetechnicaltermforitofanelephantcomprisesaprettyaccuratethird，andisofarichmellowtonewithagooddealofbrassinit。Therhinocerosgruntsagoodfourth，beginning，wewillsay，onC，anddroppingcorrectlyontotheGbelow。
TheMonteGeneroso，then，isagoodplacetostayafewdaysat，butonesooncomestoanendofit。Thetopofamountainislikeanislandintheair，oneiscoopedupuponitunlessonedescends；
inthecaseoftheMonteGenerosothereistheviewofthelakeofLugano，thewalktotheColma，thewalkalongthecrestofthehillbythefarm，andtheviewoverLombardy，andthatisall。Ifonegoesfardownoneishauntedbytherecollectionthatwhenoneistiredintheeveningonewillhaveallone\'sclimbingtodo，and，beautifulastheupperpartsoftheMonteGenerosoare，thereislittleforapainterthereexcepttostudycattle，goats，andclouds。Irecommendatraveller，therefore，byallmeanstospendadayortwoatthehotelontheMonteGeneroso，buttomakehislongersojourndownbelowatMendrisio，thewalksandexcursionsfromwhichareendless，andallofthembeautiful。
AmongthebestoftheseistheascentoftheMonteBisbino，whichcanbeeasilymadeinadayfromMendrisio；Ifoundnodifficultyindoingitonfootallthewaythereandbackafewyearsago，butInowprefertotakeatrapasfarasSagno，anddotherestofthejourneyonfoot，returningtothetrapintheevening。EveryonewhoknowsNorthItalyknowstheMonteBisbino。Itisahighpyramidalmountainwithwhatseemsalittlewhitechapelonthetopthatglistenslikeastarwhenthesunisfulluponit。FromComoitisseenmostplainly，butitisdistinguishableoveraverylargepartofLombardywhenthesunisright；itisfrequentlyascendedfromComoandCernobbio，butIbelievetheeasiestwayofgettingupitistostartfromMendrisiowithatrapasfarasSagno。
AmileandahalforsoafterleavingMendrisiothereisavillagecalledCastelloontheleft。Here，alittleofftheroadontherighthand，thereisthesmallchurchofS。Cristoforo，ofgreatantiquity，containingtheremainsofsomeearlyfrescoes，Ishouldthinkofthethirteenthorearlypartofthefourteenthcentury。
Asusual，peoplehavescratchedtheirnamesonthefrescoes。Wefoundonename\"Battista，\"withthedate\"1485\"againstit。ItisamistaketoholdthattheEnglishscribbletheirnamesaboutmorethanotherpeople。TheItalianslikedoingthisjustaswellaswedo。LetthereadergotoVarallo，forexample，andnotethenamesscratchedupfromthebeginningofthesixteenthcenturytothepresentday，onthewallsofthechapelcontainingtheCrucifixion。
Indeed，theItaliansseemtohavebegunthehabitlongbeforewedid，forweveryrarelyfindnamesscratchedonEnglishbuildingssolongagoasthefifteenthcentury，whereasinItalytheyarecommon。TheearliestIcancalltomindinEnglandatthismomentofcourse，exceptingthenameswrittenintheBeauchampTowerisonthechurchporchatHarlington，wherethereisanamecutanddatedinoneoftheearlyyearsoftheseventeenthcentury。I
nevereveninItalysawanamescratchedonawallwithanearlierdatethan1480。
Whyisit，Iwonder，thattheselittlebitsofsoul-fossilasitwere，touchussomuchwhenwecomeacrossthem？Afossildoesnottouchus——whileaflyinamberdoes。Whyshouldaflyinamberinterestusandgiveusaslightlysolemnfeelingforamoment，whenthefossilofamegatheriumboresus？Igiveitup；butfewofuscanseethelightesttriflescratchedoffcasuallyandidlylongago，withoutlikingitbetterthanalmostanygreatthingofthesame，oreversomuchearlierdate，donewithpurposeandintentionthatitshouldremain。SowhenweleftS。Cristoforoitwasnottheoldchurch，northefrescoes，butthenameoftheidlefellowwhohadscratchedhisname\"Battista……1485，\"thatwecarriedawaywithus。Alittlebitofoldworldlifeandentirewantofearnestness，preservedasthoughitwereasmileinamber。
IntheValSesia，severalyearsago，IboughtsometobaccothatwaswrappedupformeinayellowoldMS。whichIinduecourseexamined。Itwasdated1797，andwasaleaffromthebookinwhichatannerusedtoentertheskinswhichhiscustomersbroughthimtobetanned。
\"October24，\"hewrites，\"IreceivedfromSignoraSilvestre，calledthewidow，theskinofagoatbrandedintheneck——Iamnottogiveitupunlesstheygivemeproofthatsheistherightfulowner。Mem。IdeliveredittoMr。PeterJobSignorPietroGiobbe。
\"October27——Ireceivetwosmallskinsofagoat，verythinandbrandedintheneck，fromGiuseppeGianoteofCampertogno。
\"October29——IreceivethreeskinsofachamoisfromSignorAntonioCinereofAlagna，brandedintheneck。\"Thenthereisasubsequententrywrittensmall。\"Ireceivealsoalittlegraymarmot\'sskinweighingthirtyounces。\"
IamsorryIdidnotgetasheetwiththetanner\'sname。Iamsurehewasanexcellentperson，andmighthavebeentrustedwithanynumberofskins，brandedorunbranded。Itisnearlyahundredyearsagosincethatlittlegraymarmot\'sskinwastannedintheValSesia；butthewretchwillnotliequietinhisgrave；hewalks，andhashauntedmeonceamonthorsoanytimethistenyearspast。IwillseeifIcannotlayhimbyprevailingonhimtohauntsomeoneorotherofmyreaders。
CHAPTERXX——SanctuaryonMonteBisbinoButtoreturntoS。Cristoforo。IntheMiddleAgestherewasacertaindukewhoheldthispartofthecountryandwasnotoriousforhisexactions。OneChristmasevewhenheandhiswholehouseholdhadassembledtotheirdevotions，thepeopleroseupagainstthemandmurderedtheminsidethechurch。Afterthistragedy，thechurchwasdesecrated，thoughmonumentshavebeenputupontheoutsidewallseveninrecentyears。Thereisafinebitofearlyreligioussculptureoverthedoor，andthetracesofafrescoofChristwalkinguponthewater，alsoveryearly。
Returningtotheroadbyapathofacoupleofhundredyards，wedescendedtocrosstheriver，andthenascendedagaintoMorbioSuperiore。Theviewfromthepiazzainfrontofthechurchisveryfine，extendingoverthewholeMendrisiotto，andreachingasfarasVareseandtheLagoMaggiore。BelowisMorbioInferiore，aplaceofsingularbeauty。AcoupleofItalianfriendswerewithus，oneofthemSignorSpartacoVela，sonofProfessorVela。Hecalledusintothechurchandshowedusabeautifulaltar-piece——aMadonnawithsaintsoneitherside，apparentlymovedfromsomeearlierchurch，and，asweallagreed，averyfinework，thoughwecouldformnoideawhotheartistwas。
FromMorbioSuperioretheascentissteep，anditwilltakehalf-
an-hourormoretoreachthelevelbitofroadclosetoSagno。
This，again，commandsthemostexquisiteviews，especiallyoverComo，throughthetrunksofthetrees。ThencomesSagnoitself，thelastvillageoftheCantonTicinoandclosetotheItalianfrontier。Thereisnoinnwithsleepingaccommodationhere，butiftherewas，Sagnowouldbeaverygoodplacetostayat。TheysaythatsomeofitsinhabitantssometimessmuggleapoundortwooftobaccoacrosstheItalianfrontier，hidingitinthefernclosetotheboundary，andwhiskingitoverthelineonadarknight，butI
knownotwhattruththereisintheallegation；thepeoplestruckmeasbeingabovetheaverageinrespectofgoodlooksandgoodbreeding——andtheaverageinthosepartsisaveryhighone。
ImmediatelybehindSagnotheoldpavedpilgrim\'sroadbeginstoascendrapidly。Wefollowedit，andinhalf-an-hourreachedthestonemarkingtheItalianboundary；thencomessomelevelwalking，andthenonturningacornerthemonasteryatthetopoftheMonteBisbinoiscaughtsightof。Itstilllookssmall，butonecannowseewhatanimportantbuildingitreallyis，andhowdifferentfromthemerechapelwhichitappearstobewhenseenfromadistance。
ThesketchwhichIgiveistakenfromaboutamilefurtheronthantheplacewherethesummitisfirstseen。
Heresomemenjoineduswholivedinahutafewhundredfeetfromthetopofthemountainandlookedafterthecattlethereduringthesummer。Itisattheiralpethatthelastwatercanbeobtained，soweresolvedtostaythereandeattheprovisionswehadbroughtwithus。Forthebenefitoftravellers，Ishouldsaytheywillfindthewaterbyopeningthedoorofakindofouthouse；
thiscoversthewaterandpreventsthecowsfromdirtyingit。
Therewillbeawoodenbowlfloatingonthetop。Thewateroutsideisnotdrinkable，butthatintheouthouseisexcellent。
Themenwereverygoodtous；theyknewme，havingseenmepassandwatchedmesketchinginotheryears。Ithadunfortunatelynowbeguntorain，soweweregladofshelter:theythrewfaggotsonthefireandsoonkindledablaze；whenthesedieddownanditwasseenthatthesparksclungtothekettleandsmoulderedonit，theysaidthatitwouldrainmuch，andtheywereright。Itpouredduringthehourwespentindining，afterwhichitonlygotalittlebetter；wethankedthem，andwentupfiveorsixhundredfeettillthemonasteryatlengthloomedoutsuddenlyuponusfromthemist，whenwewereclosetoitbutnotbefore。
Thereisarestaurantatthetopwhichisopenforafewdaysbeforeandafterafesta，butgenerallyclosed；itwasopennow，sowewentintodryourselves。Wefoundratheraroughishlotassembled，andimaginedthesmugglingelementtopreponderateoverthereligious，butnothingcouldbebetterthanthewayinwhichtheytreatedus。Therewasonegentleman，however，whowasnosmuggler，butwhohadlivedmanyyearsinLondonandhadnowsettleddownatRovenna，justbelowonthelakeofComo。Hehadtakenaroomhereandfurnisheditforthesakeoftheshooting。
HespokeperfectEnglish，andwouldhavenonebutEnglishthingsabouthim。HehadCockle\'santibiliouspills，andthelastnumbersofthe\"IllustratedLondonNews\"and\"MorningChronicle；\"hisbathandbath-towelswereEnglish，andtherewasaboxofHuntley&
Palmer\'sbiscuitsonhisdressing-table。HewasdelightedtoseesomeEnglishmen，andshoweduseverythingthatwastobeseen——
amongtherestthebirdshekeptincagestolurethosethatheintendedtoshoot。Healsotookusbehindthechurch，andtherewefoundaverybeautifulmarblestatueoftheMadonnaandchild，anadmirablework，withpaintedeyesandthedressgildedandfigured。
Whatanextraordinarynumberoffineor，attheleast，interestingthingsonefindsinItalywhichnooneknowsanythingabout。Inoneday，pokingaboutatrandom，wehadseensomeearlyfrescoesatS。Cristoforo，anexcellentworkatMorbio，andherewasanotherfinethingsprunguponus。ItisnotsafeevertopassachurchinItalywithoutexploringitcarefully。Thechurchmaybenewandforthemostpartfullofnothingbutwhatisodious，butthereisnoknowingwhatfragmentofearlierworkonemaynotfindpreserved。
SignorBarelli，forthiswasourfriend\'sname，nowgaveussomeprintsofthesanctuary，oneofwhichIreproduceonp。240。
Behindthechurchthereisalevelpieceofgroundwithatableandstoneseatsroundit。Theviewfromhereinfineweatherisverystriking。Asitwas，however，itwasperhapshardlylessfinethaninclearweather，forthecloudshadnowraisedthemselvesalittle，thoughverylittle，abovethesanctuary，buthereandtherelayallraggeddownbelowus，andcastbeautifulreflectedlightsuponthelakeandtownofComo。
Above，theheavenswerestillblackandlowering。OveragainstuswastheMonteGeneroso，verysombre，andscarredwithsnow-whitetorrents；below，thedull，sullenslopesoftheMonteBisbino，andthelakeofComo；furtheron，theMendrisiottoandtheblue-blackplainsofLombardy。IhavebeenatthetopoftheMonteBisbinoseveraltimes，butneverwasmoreimpressedwithit。Atalltimes，however，itisamarvellousplace。
Comingdownwekepttheridgeofthehillinsteadoftakingthepathbywhichweascended。Beautifulviewsofthemonasteryarethusobtained。Theflowersinspringmustbeveryvaried；andwestillfoundtwoorthreelargekindsofgentiansandanynumberofcyclamens。PresentlyVeladugupafernrootofthecommonPolypodiumvulgare；hescrapeditwithhisknifeandgaveussometoeat。Itisnotatallbad，andtastesverymuchlikeliquorice。
ThenwecameuponthelittlechapelofS。Nicolao。Idonotknowwhetherthereisanythinggoodinsideorno。ThenwereachedSagnoandreturnedtoMendrisio；aswere-crossedthestreambetweenMorbioSuperioreandCastellowefoundithadbecomearagingtorrent，capableofanyvillainy。
CHAPTERXXI——ADayattheCantineNextdaywewenttobreakfastwithProfessorVela，thefatherofmyfriendSpartaco，atLigornetto。AfterwehadadmiredthemanyfineworkswhichProfessorVela\'sstudiocontains，itwasagreedthatweshouldtakeawalkbyS。Agata，andspendtheafternoonatthecantine，orcellarswherethewineiskept。SpartacohadtwopainterfriendsstayingwithhimwhomIalreadyknew，andayounglady，hiscousin；soweallwenttogetheracrossthemeadows。I
thinkwestartedaboutoneo\'clock，anditwassomethreeorfourbythetimewegottothecantine，forwekeptstoppingcontinuallytodrinkwine。Thetwopaintervisitorshadafinecomicvein，andenliveneduscontinuallywithbitsofstagebusinesswhichweresometimesuncommonlydroll。Wewerelaughingincessantly，butcarriedverylittleawaywithusexceptthatthedrieroneofthetwo，whowasalsounfortunatelydeaf，threwhimselfintoarhapsodicalattitudewithhismiddlefingeragainsthischeek，andhiseyesupturnedtoheaven，buttomakesurethathisfingershouldsticktohischeekhejustwettedtheendofitagainsthistonguefirst。Hedidthiswithunruffledgravity，andasifitweretheonlythingtodounderthecircumstances。
Theyoungladywhowaswithusallthetimeenjoyedeverythingjustasmuchaswedid；once，indeed，shethoughttheyweregoingalittletoofar——notasamongthemselves——butconsideringthattherewereacoupleofearnest-mindedEnglishmenwiththem:thepairhadbegunashortperformancewhichcertainlydidlookasifitmightdevelopintosomethingalittlehazardous。\"Mingafartutto，\"sheexclaimedratherpromptly——\"Don\'tdoall。\"Sowhattherestwouldhavebeenweshallneverknow。
Thenwecametosomeprecipices，whereonitatonceoccurredtothetwocomediansthattheywouldcommitsuicide。Thepatheticwayinwhichtheysharedthecontentsoftheirpocketsamongus，andcamebackmorethanoncetogivelittleadditionalpartingmessageswhichoccurredtothemjustastheywereabouttotakethefatalplunge，wasirresistiblycomic，andwasthemoreremarkableforthespontaneousnessofthewholethingandtheadmirablewayinwhichthepairplayedintooneanother\'shands。Thedeafoneevenplayedhisdeafness，makingitworsethanitwassoastoheightenthecomedy。Byandbywecametoastilewhichtheypretendedtohaveadelicacyincrossing，buttheladyhelpedthemover。WeconcludedthatiftheseyoungmenwereaveragespecimensoftheItalianstudent——andIshouldsaytheywere——theItaliancharacterhasanenormousfundofpureloveoffun——notofmischievousfun，butoftheverybestkindofplayfulhumour，suchasIhaveneverseenelsewhereexceptamongEnglishmen。
Severaltimeswestoppedandhadabottleofwineatoneplaceoranother，tillatlastwecametoabeautifulshadyplacelookingdowntowardsthelakeofLuganowhereweweretorestforhalf-an-
hourorso。Therewasacantinahere，soofcoursewehadmorewine。Inthatair，andwiththewalkandincessantstateoflaughterinwhichwewerebeingkept，wemightdrinkadlibitum，andtheladydidnotrefuseasecondsmallbicchiere。Onthisourdeaffriendassumedananxious，fatherlyair。Hesaidnothing，butputhiseyeglassinhiseye，andlookedfirstatthelady\'sglassandthenattheladywithanexpressionatoncekind，pitying，andpained；helookedbackwardsandforwardsfromtheglasstotheladymorethanonce，andthenmadeasthoughheweregoingtoquitasceneinwhichitwasplainhecouldbeofnofurtheruse，throwinguphishandsandeyesliketheoldstewardinHogarth\'s\"Marriagealamode。\"Theyneverseemedtotire，andeveryfreshincidentatoncesuggesteditsappropriatetreatment。Jonesaskedthemwhethertheythoughttheycouldmimicme。\"Ohdear，yes，\"wastheanswer；
\"wehavemimickedhimhundredsoftimes，\"andtheyatoncebegan。
AtlastwereachedProfessorVela\'sowncantina，andhereweweretohaveourfinalbottle。Therewereseveralothercantinehardby，andotherpartiesthathadcomelikeourselvestotakeawalkandgetsomewine。Thepeoplebringtheireveningmealwiththemuptothecantinaandthensitonthewalloutside，orgotoaroughtableandeatit。Instead，infact，ofbringingtheirwinetotheirdinner，theytaketheirdinnertotheirwine。Therewasoneveryfatoldgentlemanwhohadgotthecornerofthewalltositon，andwassmokingacigarwithhiscoatoff。Hecomes，Iamtold，everydayataboutthreeduringthesummermonths，andsitsonthewalltillseven，whenhegoeshometobed，risingataboutfouro\'clocknextmorning。Heseemedexceedinglygood-temperedandhappy。AnotherfamilywhoownedacantinaadjoiningProfessorVela\'s，hadbroughttheireveningmealwiththem，andinsistedongivingusaquantityofexcellentrivercray-fishwhichlookedlikelittlelobsters。Imaybewrong，butIthoughtthisfamilylookedatusonceortwiceasthoughtheythoughtwewereseeingalittlemoreoftheItaliansabsolutelychezeuxthanstrangersoughttobeallowedtosee。Wecanonlysaywelikedallwesawsomuchthatwewouldfainseeitagain，andwereleftwiththeimpressionthatwewereamongthenicestandmostloveablepeopleintheworld。
Ihavesaidthatthecantinearethecellarswherethepeoplekeeptheirwine。Theyarecaveshollowedoutintothesideofthemountain，anditisonlycertainlocalitiesthataresuitableforthepurpose。Thecantine，therefore，ofanyvillagewillbealltogether。ThecantineofMendrisio，forexample，canbeseenfromtherailroad，allinarow，alittlebeforeonegetsintothetown；
theyformaplaceofreunionwherethevillageortownunitestounbenditselfonfesteorafterbusinesshours。Idonotknowexactlyhowtheymanageit，butfromtheinnermostchamberofeachcantinatheyrunasmallgalleryasfarastheycanintothemountain，andfromthisgallery，whichmaybeafootsquare，thereissuesastrongcurrentofwhat，insummer，isicycoldair，whileinwinteritfeelsquitewarm。Icouldunderstandtheequablenessofthetemperatureofthemountainatsomeyardsfromthesurfaceoftheground，causingthecantinatofeelcoolinsummerandwarminwinter，butIwasnotpreparedforthestrengthandicinessofthecoldcurrentthatcamefromthegallery。IhadnotbeenintheinnermostcantinatwominutesbeforeIfeltthoroughlychilledandinwantofagreatcoat。
Havingbeenshownthecantine，wetooksomeofthelittlecupswhicharekeptinsideandbegantodrink。Theselittlecupsarecommoncrockery，butatthebottomthereiswritten，VivaBacco，Vival\'Italia，VivalaGioia，VivaVenere，orothersuchmatter；
theyaretobehadineverycrockeryshopthroughouttheMendrisiotto，andareverypretty。Wedrankoutofthem，andatethecray-fishwhichhadbeengivenus。Thenseeingthatitwasgettinglate，wereturnedtogethertoBesazio，andthereparted，theydescendingtoLigornettoandwetoMendrisio，afteradaywhichIshouldbegladtothinkwouldbeaslongandpleasantlyrememberedbyourItalianfriendsasitwillassuredlybebyourselves。
TheexcursionsintheneighbourhoodofMendrisioareendless。Thewalk，forexample，toS。AgataandthencetoMerideisexquisite。
S。Agataitselfisperfect，andcommandsasplendidview。ThenthereisthelittlechapelofS。Nicolaoonaledgeoftheredprecipice。ThewalktothisbythevillageofSommazzoisasgoodasanythingcanbe，andthequietterraceleadingtothechurchdoorwillnotbeforgottenbythosewhohaveseenit。Sommazzoitselffromtheothersideofthevalleycomesasonp。247。ThereisCragno，again，ontheMonteGeneroso，orRivawithitsseriesofpicturesintemperabythebrothersGiulioCesareandCamilloProcaccini，menwho，hadtheylivedbeforethedaysofacademics，mighthavedoneaswellasany，exceptthefewwhomnoacademycanmould，butwho，asitwas，werecarriedawaybyfluencyandfacility。Itisuseless，however，tospecify。Thereisnotoneofthemanyvillageswhichcanbeseenfromanyrisinggroundintheneighbourhood，butwhatcontainssomethingthatispicturesqueandinteresting，whilethecoupd\'oeil，asawhole，isalwaysequallystriking，whetheroneisontheplainandlookstowardsthemountains，orlooksfromthemountainstotheplains。
CHAPTERXXII——SacroMonte，VareseFromMendrisiowetookatrapacrossthecountrytoVarese，passingthroughStabbio，wheretherearesomebathsthataremuchfrequentedbyItaliansinthesummer。Theroadisapleasantone，butdoesnotgothroughanyspeciallyremarkableplaces。
Travellerstakingthisroadhadbetterleaveeverycigarettebehindthemonwhichtheydonotwanttopayduty，asthecustom-houseofficialatthefrontiertakesastrictviewofwhatisduetohisemployers。Ihad，perhaps，acoupleofouncesoftobaccoinmypouch，butwasmadetopaydutyonit，andthesearchingofoursmallamountofluggagewaslittlelessthaninquisitorial。
FromVaresewewentwithoutstoppingtotheSacroMonte，fourorfivemilesbeyond，andseveralhundredfeethigherthanthetownitself。Closetothefirstchapel，andjustbelowthearchthroughwhichthemoresacredpartofthemountainisenteredupon，thereisanexcellenthotelcalledtheHotelRiposo，keptbySignorPiotti；itisverycomfortable，andnotatalltoohoteveninthedog-days；itcommandsmagnificentviews，andmakesverygoodheadquarters。
Herewerestedandwatchedthepilgrimsgoingupanddown。Theyseemedverygood-humouredandmerry。Thenwelookedthroughthegratingofthefirstchapelinsidethearch，andfoundittocontainarepresentationoftheAnnunciation。TheVirginhadarealwashing-stand，withabasinandjug，andapieceofrealsoap。
Herslippersweredisposedneatlyunderthebed，soalsowerehershoes，and，ifIrememberrightly，therewaseverythingelsethatMessrs。Heal&Co。wouldsendforthefurnishingofalady\'sbedroom。
Ihavealreadysaidperhapstoomuchabouttherealismofthesegroupsofpaintedstatuary，butwillventureawordortwomorewhichmayhelpthereadertounderstandthematterbetterasitappearstoCatholicsthemselves。Theobjectistobringthesceneasvividlyaspossiblebeforepeoplewhohavenothadtheopportunityofbeingabletorealiseittothemselvesthroughtravelorgeneralcultivationoftheimaginativefaculties。HowcananItalianpeasantrealisetohimselfthenotionoftheAnnunciationsowellasbyseeingsuchachapelasthatatVarese？
Commonsensesays，eithertellthepeasantnothingabouttheAnnunciation，orputeveryfacilityinhiswaybythehelpofwhichhewillbeabletoconceivetheideawithsomedefiniteness。
Westuffthedeadbodiesofbirdsandanimalswhichwethinkitworthwhiletoputintoourmuseums。Weputtheminthemostlife-
likeattitudeswecan，withbitsofgrassandbush，andpaintedlandscapebehindthem:bydoingthiswegivepeoplewhohaveneverseentheactualanimals，amorevividideaconcerningthemthanweknowhowtogivebyanyothermeans。WehavenotroomintheBritishMuseumtogivealoosereintorealisminthematterofaccessories，buteachbirdoranimalinthecollectionissostuffedastomakeitlookasmuchaliveasthestuffercanmakeit——eventotheinsertionofglasseyes。Wethinkitwellthatourpeopleshouldhaveanopportunityofrealisingthesebirdsandbeaststothemselves，butweareshockedatthenotionofgivingthemasimilaraidtotherealisationofeventswhich，aswesay，concernthemmorenearlythananyothers，inthehistoryoftheworld。Astuffedrabbitorblackbirdisagoodthing。AstuffedChargeofBalaclavaagainisquitelegitimate；butastuffedNativityis，accordingtoProtestantnotions，offensive。
OverandabovethedesiretohelpthemassestorealisetheeventsinChrist\'slifemorevividly，somethingisdoubtlessduetothewishtoattractpeoplebygivingthemwhattheylike。Thisisbothnaturalandlegitimate。Ourownrectorsfindtheprettiestpsalmandhymntunestheycanfortheuseoftheircongregations，andtakemuchpainsgenerallytobeautifytheirchurches。WhyshouldnottheChurchofRomemakeherselfattractivealso？IfsheknowsbetterhowtodothisthanProtestantchurchesdo，smallblametoherforthat。Forthepeopledelightinthesegravenimages。
Listentothehushed\"ohbel!\"whichfallsfromthemastheypeepthroughgratingaftergrating；andthemoretawdryachapelis，thebetter，asageneralrule，theyarecontented。TheylikethemasourownpeoplelikeMadameTussaud\'s。Grantedthattheycometoworshiptheimages；theydo；theyhardlyattempttoconcealit。
ThewriteroftheauthorisedhandbooktotheSacroMonteatLocarno，forexample，speaksof\"thesolemncoronationoftheimagethatisthererevered\"——\"lasolennecoronazionedelsimulacroivivenerato\"p。7。Buthow，pray，canweavoidworshippingimages？
orlovingimages？TheactuallivingformofChristonearthwasstillnotChrist，itwasbuttheimageunderwhichHisdisciplessawHim；norcanweseemoreofanyofthosewelovethanacertainmoreversatileandwarmerpresentmentofthemthananartistcancounterfeit。Theultimate\"them\"weseenot。
Howfarthesechapelshavedoneallthattheirfoundersexpectedofthemisanothermatter。TheyhaveundoubtedlystrengthenedthehandsoftheChurchintheirimmediateneighbourhood，andtheyhavegivenanincalculableamountofpleasure，butIthinkthatintheMiddleAgespeopleexpectedofartmorethanartcando。Theyhopedafineworkofartwouldexerciseadeepandpermanenteffectuponthelivesofthosewholivednearit。Doubtlessitdoeshavesomeeffect——enoughtomakeitworthwhiletoencouragesuchworks，butneverthelesstheeffectis，Iimagine，verytransient。Theonlythingthatcanproduceadeepandpermanentlygoodinfluenceuponaman\'scharacteristohavebeenbegottenofgoodancestorsformanygenerations——oratanyratetohaverevertedtoagoodancestor——andtoliveamongnicepeople。
ThechapelsthemselvesatVarese，apartfromtheircontents，areverybeautiful。TheycomeasfreshoneaftertheotherasasetofvariationsbyHandel。Eachoneofthemisalittlearchitecturalgem，whilethefigurestheycontainaresometimesverygood，thoughonthewholenotequaltothoseatVarallo。Thesubjectsarethemysteriesofjoy，namely，theAnnunciationimmediatelyafterthefirstgreatarchispassed，theSalutationofMarybyElizabeth，theNativity，thePresentation，andtheDisputingwiththeDoctors。
Thenthereisasecondarch，afterwhichcomethemysteriesofgrief——theAgonyintheGarden，theFlagellation，theCrowningwithThorns，theAscenttoCalvary，andtheCrucifixion。Passingthroughathirdarch，wecometothemysteriesofglory——theResurrection，theAscension，theDescentoftheHolyGhost，andtheAssumptionoftheVirginMary。TheDisputeintheTempleisthechapelwhichleftthedeepestimpressionuponus。Herethevariousattitudesandexpressionsofthedoctorsareadmirablyrendered。
Thereisoneman，Ithinkhemusthavebeenabroadchurchmanandhavetakeninthe\"Spectator\"；hisarmsarefolded，andheissmilingalittle，withhisheadononeside。Heisnotprepared，heseemstosay，todenythatthereisacertainelementoftruthinwhatthisyoungpersonhasbeensaying，butitisveryshallow，andinallessentialpointshasbeenrefutedoverandoveragain；
hehasseenthesethingscomeandgosooften，&c。Butallthedoctorsaregood。TheChristisweak，andsoaretheJosephandMaryinthebackground；infact，throughoutthewholeseriesofchapelsthewickedorworldlyandindifferentpeoplearewelldone，whilethesaintsareafeeblefolk:thesculptorevidentlyneitherunderstoodthemnorlikedthem，andcouldnevergetbeyondsilliness；buttheartistwhohaslatelydonethemuphasmadethemstillweakerandsillierbygivingthemallpinknoses。
Shortlyafterthesixthchapelhasbeenpassedtheroadturnsacorner，andthetownonthehillseeprecedingpagecomesintofullview。Thisisasingularlybeautifulspot。Thechapelsareworthcomingalongwaytosee，butthisviewofthetownisbetterstill:wegenerallylikeanybuildingthatisonthetopofahill；itisaninstinctinournaturetodoso；itisaremnantofthesameinstinctwhichmakessheepliketocampatthetopofahill；itgivesaremotesenseofsecurityandvantage-groundagainstanenemy。TheItaliansseemhardlyabletolookatahighplacewithoutlongingtoputsomethingonthetopofit，andtheyhaveseldomdonesowithbettereffectthaninthecaseoftheSacroMonteatVarese。Fromthemomentofitsburstingupononeonturningthecornerneartheseventh，orFlagellationchapel，onecannotkeepone\'seyesoffit，andonefancies，aswithS。Michele，thatitcomesbetterandbetterwitheverysteponetakes；nearthetopitcomposes，asonp。254，butwithoutcolournothingcangiveanadequatenotionofitsextremebeauty。Onceatthetoptheinterestcentresinthehiggledy-piggledinessofthehouses，thegaycoloursoftheboothswherestringsofbeadsandotherreligiousknick-knacksaresold，thegloriouspanorama，andintheinnwhereonecandineverywell，andIshouldimaginefindgoodsleepingaccommodation。Theviewfromthebalconyoutsidethedining-roomiswonderful，andaboveisasketchfromtheterracejustinfrontofthechurch。
ThereisherenosinglebuildingcomparabletothesanctuaryofSammichele，noristhereanytraceofthatbeautifulLombardworkwhichmakessomuchimpressionupononeinthechurchontheMontePirchiriano；thearchitectureislate，andbarocco，nottosayrococo，reignseverywhere；neverthelesstheeffectofthechurchisgood。Thevisitorshouldgetthesacristantoshowhimaveryfinepagliottooraltarclothofraisedembroidery，workedinthethirteenthcentury。HewillalsodowelltowalksomelittledistancebehindthetownonthewaytoS。MariadeifioriSt。MaryoftheflowersandlookdownuponthetownandLombardy。Idonotthinkheneedgomuchhigherthanthis，unlesshehasafancyforclimbing。
TheSacroMonteisakindofecclesiasticalRoshervilleGardens，eminentlytheplacetospendahappyday。Wehappenedbygoodlucktobethereduringoneofthegreatfesteoftheyear，andsawIamafraidtosayhowmanythousandsofpilgrimsgoupanddown。Theywereadmirablybehaved，andnotoneofthemtipsy。TherewasanoldEnglishgentlemanattheHotelRiposowhotoldusthattherehadbeenanothersuchfestanotmanyweekspreviously，andthathehadseenonedrunkenmanthere——anEnglishman——whokeptabusingallhesawandcryingout，\"Manchester\'stheplaceforme。\"
Theprocessionswerebestatthelastpartoftheascent；therewerepilgrims，alldeckedoutwithcolouredfeathers，andpriestsandbannersandmusicandcrimsonandgoldandwhiteandglitteringbrassagainstthecloudlessbluesky。Theoldpriestsatathisopenwindowtoreceivetheofferingsofthedevoutastheypassed；
buthedidnotseemtogetmorethanafewbambinimodelledinwax。
Perhapshewasusedtoit。Andthebandplayedthebaroccomusiconthebaroccolittlepiazzaandwewereallbaroccotogether。ItwasasthoughtheclergymanatLadywellhadgivenoutthat，insteadofhavingserviceusual，thecongregationwouldgoinprocessiontotheCrystalPalacewithalltheirtraps，andthatthebandhadbeenpractising\"Waittillthecloudsrollby\"forsometime，andonSundayasagreattreattheyshouldhaveit。
ThePopehasissuedanordersayinghewillnothavemasseswrittenlikeoperas。Itisnouse。ThePopecandomuch，buthewillnotbeabletogetcontrapuntalmusicintoVarese。Hewillnotbeabletogetanythingmoresolemnthan\"LaFilledeMadameAngot\"intoVarese。Asforfugues-!IwouldassoontakeanEnglishbishoptotheSurreypantomimeastotheSacroMonteonafesta。
Thenthepilgrimswentintotheshadowofagreatrockbehindthesanctuary，spreadthemselvesoutoverthegrassanddined。
CHAPTERXXIII——AngeraandAronaFromtheHotelRiposowedrovetoAngera，ontheLagoMaggiore。
Therearemanyinterestingthingstoseeontheway。ClosetoVelate，forexample，thereisthemagnificentbitofruinwhichissostrikingafeatureasseenfromtheSacroMonte。Alittlefurtheron，atLuinate，thereisafineoldLombardcampanileandsomeconventualbuildingswhichareworthsparingfiveminutesorsotosee。TheviewshereaboutsoverthelakeofVareseandtowardsMonteRosaareexceedinglyfine。ThedrivershouldbetoldtogoamileorsooutofhisdirectrouteinordertopassOltrona，nearVoltrone。Heretherewasamonasterywhichmustoncehavebeenanimportantone。Littleofoldworkremains，exceptaverybeautifulcloisterofthethirteenthorfourteenthcentury，whichshouldnotbemissed。Itmeasuresabouttwenty-onepaceseachway:thenorthsidehasroundarchesmadeofbrick，thearchesaresupportedbysmallcolumnsaboutsixinchesthrough，eachofwhichhasadifferentcapital；themiddleisnowgardenground。AfewmilesnearerAngerathereisBrebbia，thechurchofwhichisanexcellentspecimenofearlyLombardwork。WethoughtwesawthetraditionsofCyclopeanmasonryintheoccasionalirregularityofthestring-courses。Thestonesnearthebottomofthewallareverymassive，andthewestwallisnot，ifIrememberrightly，bondedintothenorthandsouthwalls，butthesewallsareonlybuiltupagainstitasatGiornico。Thedooronthesouthsideissimple，butremarkablybeautiful。ItlooksalmostasifitmightbelongtosomeearlyNormanchurchinEngland，andthestoneshaveacquiredamostexquisitewarmcolourwithage。AtIsprathereisacampanilewhichMr。Ruskinwouldprobablydisapproveof，butwhichwethoughtlovely。Afewkilometresfurtheronacorneristurned，andthesplendidcastleofAngeraiscaughtsightof。
Beforegoinguptothecastlewestayedattheinnontheleftimmediatelyonenteringthetown，todine。Theygaveusaverygooddinner，andthegardenwasadelightfulplacetodinein。
Thereisakindofredchampagnemadehereaboutswhichisverygood；thefigswereripe，andwecouldgatherthemforourselvesandeatadlibitum。Thereweretwotamesparrowshoppingcontinuallyaboutus；theypretendedtomakealittlefussaboutallowingthemselvestobecaught，buttheyevidentlydidnotmindit。Idroppedabitofbreadandwasstoopingtopickitup；oneofthemonseeingmemovemadeforitandcarrieditoffatonce；