第12章
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  \"WefoundourselvesextremelyawkwardindancingwhattheladieswerepleasedtocallEnglishcountrydances。Themusic,whichcamefromasolitaryill-scrapedfiddle,accompaniedbytherumblingofthesamehalf-rottendrumthathadsummonedthehighcourtofjustice,andbythejinglingofarustytriangle,wastomeutterlyunintelligible。Theextremerapiditywithwhichitwasnecessarytogothroughmanycomplicatedevolutionsinpropertime,completelybewilderedus;andourmistakes,andfrequentcollisionswithourneighbours,affordedmuchamusementtoourfairpartners,whofounditforalongtimeimpracticabletokeepusintherighttrack。

  Whenallowedtobreathealittle,wehadanopportunityofremarkingsomesingularitiesinthestateofsocietyandmannersamongtheDanesofReikjavik。Whileunengagedinthedance,themendrinkpunch,andwalkaboutwithtobacco-pipesintheirmouths,spittingplentifullyonthefloor。TheunrestrainedevacuationofsalivaseemstobeafashionalloverIceland;butwhetherthenativeslearneditfromtheDanes,ortheDanesfromthenatives,wedidnotascertain。Severalladieswhosevirtuecouldnotbearaverystrictscrutinywerepointedouttous。

  \"Duringthedances,teaandcoffeewerehandedabout;andnegusandpunchwerereadyforthosewhochosetopartakeofthem。Acoldsupperwasprovided,consistingofhams,beef,cheese,&c。,andwine。Whileattable,severaloftheladiessang,andacquittedthemselvestolerablywell。ButIcouldnotenjoytheperformance,onaccountoftheincessanttalking,whichwasasfashionablearudenessinIcelandasitisnowinBritain。This,however,wasnotconsideredasintheleastunpolite。Oneofthesongswasinpraiseofthedonorsoftheentertainment;and,duringthechorus,theceremonyoftouchingeachother\'sglasseswasperformed。Aftersupper,waltzesweredanced,inastylethatremindedmeofsoldiersmarchingincadencetothedeadmarchinSaul。Thoughtherewasnoneedofartificiallight,anumberofcandleswereplacedintherooms。Whenthecompanybrokeup,aboutthreeo\'clock,thesunwashighabovethehorizon。\"

  {29}Amanofeightyyearsofageisseldomseenontheisland——

  Kerguelen。

  {30}Kerguelenwritingin1768says:\"Theyliveduringthesummerprincipallyoncod\'sheads。Acommonfamilymakeamealofthreeorfourcods\'headsboiledinsea-water。\"——ED。

  {31}ThisbakehouseistheonlyoneinIceland,andproducesasgoodbreadandbiscuitasanythatcanbeprocuredinDenmark。[InKerguelen\'stime1768breadwasveryuncommoninIceland。ItwasbroughtfromCopenhagen,andconsistedofbroadthincakes,orsea-

  biscuits,madeofrye-flour,andextremelyblack——ED。]

  {32}Inallhighlatitudesfatoilysubstancesareconsumedtoavastextentbythenatives。Thedesireseemstobeinstinctive,notacquired。Adifferentmodeoflivingwouldundoubtedlyrenderthemmoresusceptibletothecoldoftheseinclementregions。Manyinterestinganecdotesarerelatedofthefondnessofthesehyperboreanracesforakindoffoodfromwhichwewouldturnindisgust。BeforegaswasintroducedintoEdinburgh,andthecitywaslightedbyoil-lamps,severalRussiannoblemenvisitedthatmetropolis;anditissaidthattheirlongingfortheluxuryoftrain-oilbecameoneeveningsointense,that,unabletoprocurethedelicacyinanyotherway,theyemptiedtheoil-lamps。ParryrelatesthatwhenhewaswinteringintheArcticregions,oneoftheseamen,whohadbeensmittenwiththecharmsofanEsquimauxlady,wishedtomakeherapresent,andknowingthetastepeculiartothoseregions,hegaveherwithallduehonoursapoundofcandles,sixtothepound!Thepresentwassoacceptabletothelady,thatsheeagerlydevouredthelotinthepresenceofherwonderingadmirer——ED。

  {33}AnAmericantravellinginIcelandin1852thusdescribes,inalettertotheBostonPost,themodeoftravelling:-\"Alltravelisonhorseback。Immensenumbersofhorsesareraisedinthecountry,andtheyareexceedinglycheap。Asfortravellingonfoot,evenshortjourneys,nooneeverthinksofit。Theroadsaresobadforwalking,andgenerallysogoodforridingthatshoe-leather,tosaynothingoffatigue,wouldcostnearlyasmuchashorse-flesh。Theirhorsesaresmall,compact,hardylittleanimals,asizelargerthanShetlandponies,butrarelyexceedingfrom12or13。5handshigh。A

  strangerintravellingmustalwayshavea\'guide,\'andifhedoesgoequippedforagoodjourneyandintendstomakegoodspeed,hewantsasmanyassixhorses;oneforhimself,onefortheguide,onefortheluggage,andthreerelayhorses。Thenwhenonesetofhorsesaretiredthesaddlesareexchangedtotheothers。Therelayhorsesaretiedtogetherandareeitherledordrivenbeforetheothers。A

  tentisoftencarried,unlessatravellerchoosestochanceitforhislodgings。SuchanarticleasanhotelisnotkeptinIcelandoutofthecapital。Youmustalsocarryyourprovisionswithyou,asyouwillbeabletogetbutlittleonyourroute。Plentyofmilkcanbehad,andsomefresh-waterfish。Theluggageiscarriedintrunksthatarehungoneachsideofthehorse,onarudeframethatservesasapack-saddle。Underthis,broadpiecesofturfareplacedtopreventgallingthehorse\'sback。\"

  {34}Thedownoftheeider-duckformsamostimportantandvaluablearticleofIcelandiccommerce。Itissaidthattheweightofdownprocurablefromeachnestisabouthalfapound,whichisreducedone-halfbycleansing。Thedownissoldatabouttwelveshillingsperpound,sothattheproduceofeachnestisaboutthreeshillings。Theeider-duckisnearlyaslargeasthecommongoose;

  andsomehavebeenfoundontheFernIslands,offthecoastofNorthumberland——ED。

  {35}ThesameremarkapplieswithequalforcetomanypeoplewhoarenotIcelanders。ItwasoncethehabitamongaportionofthepopulationofLancashire,onreturningfrommarket,tocarrytheirgoodsinabagattachedtooneendofastringslungovertheirshoulders,whichwasbalancedbyabagcontainingastoneattheother。Sometimeago,itwaspointedouttoaworthymanthusreturningfrommarket,thatitwouldbeeasierforhimtothrowawaythestone,andmakehalfofhisloadbalancetheotherhalf,buttheadvicewasrejectedwithdisdain;theplanhehadadoptedwasthatofhisforefathers,andhewouldonnoaccountdepartfromit——ED。

  {36}ThedescriptionoftheWolf\'sHollowoccursinthesecondactofDerFreyschutz,whenRodolphsings:

  \"Howhorrid,dark,andwild,anddrear,Doththisgapinggulfappear!

  Itseemsthehueofhelltowear。

  Thebellowingthunderburstsyonclouds,Themoonwithbloodhasstainedherlight!

  Whatformsarethoseinmistyshrouds,Thatstalkbeforemysight?

  Andnow,hush!hush!

  Theowlishootinginyonbush;

  Howyonderoak-tree\'sblastedarmsUponmeseemtofrown!

  Myheartrecoils,butallalarmsArevain:fatecalls,Imustdown,down。\"

  {37}Thereadermustbearinmindthat,duringtheseasonofwhichIspeak,thereisnotwilight,muchlessnight,inIceland。

  {38}ThespringsofCarlsbadaresaidtohavebeenunknownuntilaboutfivehundredyearsago,whenahunting-dogbelongingtooneoftheemperorsofGermanyfellin,andbyhishowlingattractedthehunterstothespot。Thetemperatureofthechiefspringis165

  degrees——ED。

  {39}HistorytellsofthisgreatIcelandicpoet,thatowingtohistreacherythefreeislandofIcelandcamebeneaththeNorwegiansceptre。ForthisreasonhecouldneverappearinIcelandwithoutastrongguard,andthereforevisitedtheAllthingundertheprotectionofasmallarmyof600men。BeingatlengthsurprisedbyhisenemiesinhishouseatReikiadal,hefellbeneaththeirblows,afterashortandineffectualresistance。[SnorriSturluson,themostdistinguishednameofwhichIcelandcanboast,wasborn,in1178,atHoam。Inhisearlyyearshewasremarkablyfortunateinhisworldlyaffairs。Thefortunehederivedfromhisfatherwassmall,butbymeansofarichmarriage,andbyinheritance,hesoonbecameproprietoroflargeestatesinIceland。Somewriterssaythathisguardof600men,duringhisvisittotheAllthing,wasintendednotasadefence,asindicatedinMadamePfeiffer\'snote,butforthepurposesofdisplay,andtoimpresstheinhabitantswithforcibleideasofhisinfluenceandpower。HewasinvitedtothecourtoftheNorwegianking,andthereheeitherpromisedorwasbribedtobringIcelandundertheNorwegianpower。Forthishehasbeengreatlyblamed,andstigmatisedasatraitor;thoughitwouldappearfromsomehistoriansthatheonlyundertooktodobypeaceablemeanswhatotherwisetheNorwegiankingswouldhaveeffectedbyforce,andthussavedhiscountryfromaforeigninvasion。Butbethisasitmay,itisquiteclearthathesunkintheestimationofhiscountrymen,andthefeelingagainsthimbecamesostrong,thathewasobligedtoflytoNorway。Hereturned,however,in1239,andintwoyearsafterwardshewasassassinatedbyhisownson-in-law。TheworkbywhichheischieflyknownistheHeimskringla,orChronicleoftheSea-KingsofNorway,oneofthemostvaluablepiecesofnorthernhistory,whichhasbeenadmirablytranslatedintoEnglishbyMr。SamuelLaing。ThiscuriousnameofHeimskringlawasgiventotheworkbecauseitcontainsthewordswithwhichbegins,andmeansliterallythecircleoftheworld——

  ED。]

  {40}AtranslationofthispoemwillbefoundintheAppendix。

  [NotincludedinthisGutenbergeText——DP]

  {41}InIceland,asinDenmark,itisthecustomtokeepthedeadaweekaboveground。Itmaybereadilyimaginedthattoanon-

  Icelandicsenseofsmell,itisanirksometasktobepresentataburialfrombeginningtoend,andespeciallyinsummer。ButIwillnotdenythatthecontinuedsensationmayhavepartlyproceededfromimagination。

  {42}EveryoneinIcelandrides。

  {43}Icannotforbearmentioningacuriouscircumstancehere。WhenIwasatthefootofMountEtnain1842,thefieryelementwascalmed;somemonthsaftermydepartureitflamedwithrenewedforce。

  When,onmyreturnfromHecla,IcametoReikjavik,IsaidjocularlythatitwouldbemoststrangeifthisEtnaofthenorthshouldalsohaveaneruptionnow。ScarcelyhadIleftIcelandmorethanfiveweekswhenaneruption,moreviolentthantheformerone,reallytookplace。Thiscircumstanceisthemoreremarkable,asithadbeeninreposeforeightyyears,andwasalreadylookeduponasaburnt-outvolcano。IfIweretoreturntoIcelandnow,Ishouldbelookeduponasaprophetessofevil,andmylifewouldscarcelybesafe。

  {44}Everypeasantintolerablygoodcircumstancescarriesalittletentwithhimwhenheleaveshomeforafewdays。Thesetentsare,attheutmost,threefeethigh,fiveorsixfeetlong,andthreebroad。

  {45}\"Thoughtheirpovertydisablesthemfromimitatingthehospitalityoftheirancestorsinallrespects,yetthedesireofdoingitstillexists:theycheerfullygiveawaythelittletheyhavetospare,andexpresstheutmostjoyandsatisfactionifyouarepleasedwiththegift。\"UnovonTroil,1772——ED。

  {46}ThepresenceofAmericanshipsintheportofGottenburgisnottobewonderedat,seeingthatnearlythree-fourthsofalltheironexportedfromGottenburgistoAmerica——ED。

  {47}\"St。Stephen\'ssteeple\"is450feethigh,beingabout40feethigherthanSt。Paul\'s,andformspartofSt。Stephen\'sCathedralinVienna,amagnificentGothicbuilding,thatdatesasfarbackasthetwelfthcentury。Ithasagreatbell,thatweighsabouteighteentons,beingmorethandoubletheweightofthebellinSt。Peter\'satRome,andfourtimestheweightofthe\"GreatTomofLincoln。\"

  ThemetalusedconsistedofcannonstakenfromtheTurksduringtheirmemorablesiegesofVienna。Thecathedralis350feetlongand200wide,beinglessthanSt。Paul\'sinLondon,whichis510

  feetlongand282wide——ED。

  {48}TheStorthingisthenamegiventotheNorwegianparliament,whichassemblesonceeverythreeyearsatChristiania。Thetimeandplaceofmeetingarefixedbylaw,andthekinghasnopowertopreventorpostponeitsassembly。Itconsistsofaboutahundredmembers,whodividethemselvesintotwohouses。Themembersmustnotbeunderthirtyyearsofage,andmusthavelivedfortenyearsinNorway。Theelectorsarerequiredtobetwenty-fiveyearsofage,andtobeeitherburgessesofatown,ortopossesspropertyoftheannualvalueof30l。Themembersmustpossessthesamequalification。ThemembersoftheStorthingareusuallyplain-

  spoken,sensiblemen,whohavenodesiretoshineasorators,butwhodespatchwithgreatnativesagacitythebusinessbroughtbeforethem。ThisStorthingisthemostindependentlegislativeassemblyinEurope;fornotonlyhasthekingnopowertopreventitsmeetingattheappointedtime,butshouldherefusetoassenttoanylawsthatarepassed,theselawscomeintoforcewithouthisassent,providedtheyarepassedbythreesuccessiveparliaments——ED。

  {49}ThepresentkingofSwedenandNorwayisOscar,oneofthefewfortunatescionsofthoselowlyfamiliesthatwereraisedtoroyalpoweranddignitybyNapoleon。Hisfather,Bernadotte,wasthesonofanadvocate,andenteredtheFrencharmyasacommonsoldier;inthatserviceherosetotherankofmarshal,andthenbecamecrown-

  prince,andultimatelykingofSweden。Hediedin1844。ThemotherofOscarwasDesireeClary,asisterofJulieClary,wifeofJosephBonaparte,theelderbrotherofNapoleon。ThisladywasaskedinmarriagebyNapoleonhimself,butherfatherrefusedhisassent;andinsteadofbecominganunfortunateempressofFrance,shebecameafortunatequeenofSwedenandNorway。OscarwasbornatParisin1799,andreceivedhiseducationchieflyinHanover。HeaccompaniedhisfathertoSwedenin1810,andascendedthethroneonhisfather\'sdeathin1844。In1824hemarriedJosephineBeauharnois,daughterofPrinceEugene,andgranddaughterofthebrilliantandfascinatingJosephine,thefirstandbestwifeofNapoleon。Oscarismuchbelovedbyhissubjects;hisadministrationismild,just,andequable;andhispersonalabilitiesandacquirementsarefarbeyondtheaverageofcrownedheads——ED。

  {50}Bergenisatownofabouttwenty-fivethousandinhabitants,situatedneartheKonsFiord,onthewestcoastofNorway,anddistantabout350milesfromChristiania。Itistheseatofabishopric,andaplaceofveryconsiderabletrade,itsexportsbeingchieflyfish。IthasgivenitsnametoacountyandatownshipinthestateofNewJersey。TherearethreeotherBergens,——oneintheislandofRugen,oneintheNetherlands,andanotherintheelectorateofHesse——ED。

  {51}KulleistheSwedishforhill。

  {52}DelekarlienisaSwedishprovince,situatedninetyoronehundredmilesnorthofStockholm。

  {53}ThefamilyofSturrewasoneofthemostdistinguishedinSweden。StenSturreintroducedprintingintoSweden,foundedtheUniversityofUpsala,andinducedmanylearnedmentocomeover。HewasmortallywoundedinabattleagainsttheDanes,anddiedin1520。

  Hissuccessorsasgovernors,Suante,NilsonSturre,andhisson,StenSturretheyounger,stillliveinthememoryoftheSwedishnation,andarehonouredfortheirpatriotismandvalour。

  {54}TheUniversityofUpsalaisthemostcelebratedinthenorth。

  ItowesitsorigintoStenSturre,theregentofthekingdom,bywhomitwasfoundedin1476,onthesameplanastheUniversityofParis。ThroughtheinfluenceoftheJesuits,whowishedtoestablishanewacademyinStockholm,itwasdissolvedin1583,butre-establishedin1598。GustavusVasa,whowaseducatedatUpsala,gaveitmanyprivileges,andmuchencouragement;andGustavusAdolphusreconstitutedit,andgiveitveryliberalendowments。

  Therearetwenty-fourprofessors,andthenumberofstudentsisbetweenfourandfivehundred——ED。

  {55}SeenovelofIvar,theSkjutsBoy,byMissEmilieCarlen。

  {56}AtCalmarwasconcluded,in1397,thefamoustreatywhichbearsitsname,bywhichDenmark,Sweden,andNorwaywereunitedunderonecrown,thatcrownplacednominallyontheheadofEricDukeofPomerania,butvirtuallyonthatofhisauntMargaret,whohasreceivedthenameof\"theSemiramisoftheNorth。\"——ED。

  {57}ThereisnowarailwaydirectfromHamburghtoBerlin——ED。

  {58}Aflorinisabouttwoshillingssterling——ED。

  {59}HerrT。SchefferofModling,nearVienna,givesthefollowingcharacteristicofthisnewdipteralanimal,whichbelongstothefamilymuscidae,andresemblesthespeciesborborus:

  Antennaedeflexae,breves,triarticulatae,articuloultimophoereco;

  sedanuda。

  Hypoctomasubprominulum,frontelata,setosa。Oculirotundi,remoti。Abdomenquinqueannulatum,dorsonudo。Tarsisimplices。

  Alaeincumbentes,abdominelongiores,nervoprimosimplici。

  Niger,abdominenitido,antennispedibusquerufopiceis。

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