Itisassertedthattheinhospitableinteriorislikewisepopulated，butbyapeculiarraceofmen，towhomalonethepathsthroughthesedesertsareknown。Thesesavageshavenointercoursewiththeirfellow-countrymenduringthewholeyear，andonlycometooneoftheportsinthebeginningofJuly，foronedayattheutmost，tobuyseveralnecessaries，forwhichtheypayinmoney。Theythenvanishsuddenly，andnooneknowsinwhichdirectiontheyaregone。Nooneknowsthem；theyneverbringtheirwivesorchildrenwiththem，andneverreplytothequestionwhencetheycome。Theirlanguage，also，issaidtobemoredifficultthanthatoftheotherinhabitantsofIceland。
Onegentleman，whomIdonotwishtoname，expressedawishtohavethecommandoftwentytotwenty-fivewell-armedsoldiers，tosearchforthesewildmen。
Thepeoplewhomaintainthattheyhaveseenthesechildrenofnature，assertthattheyaretallerandstrongerthanotherIcelanders；thattheirhorses\'hoofs，insteadofbeingshodearthiron，haveshoesofhorn；andthattheyhavemuchmoney，whichtheycanonlyhaveacquiredbypillage。WhenIinquiredwhatrespectableinhabitantsofIcelandhadbeenrobbedbythesesavages，andwhenandwhere，noonecouldgivemeananswer。Formypart，Iscarcelythinkthatoneman，certainlynotawholerace，couldlivebypillageinIceland。
DEPARTUREFROMICELAND——JOURNEYTOCOPENHAGEN。
IhadseenalltherewastobeseeninIceland，hadfinishedallmyexcursions，andawaitedwithinexpressibleimpatiencethesailingofthevesselwhichwasdestinedtobringmenearermybelovedhome。
ButIhadtostayfourverylongweeksinReikjavik，mypatiencebeingmoreexhaustedfromdaytoday，andhadafterthislongdelaytobesatisfiedwiththemostwretchedaccommodation。
Thedelaywasthemoretantalising，asseveralshipslefttheportinthemeantime，andHerrKnudson，withwhomIhadcrossedoverfromCopenhagen，invitedmetoaccompanyhimonhisreturn；butallthevesselswenttoEnglandortoSpain，andIdidnotwishtovisiteitherofthesecountries。IwaswaitingforanopportunitytogotoScandinavia，tohaveatleastaglanceatthesepicturesquedistricts。
AtlastthereweretwosloopswhichintendedtosailtowardstheendofJuly。ThebetterofthetwowenttoAltona；thedestinationoftheotherwasCopenhagen。Ihadintendedtotravelintheformer；
butamerchantofReikjavikhadalreadyengagedtheonlyberth，——forthererarelyismorethanoneinsuchasmallvessel，——andIdeemedmyselfluckytoobtaintheoneintheothership。HerrBernhoftthought，indeed，thatthevesselmightbetoobadforsuchalongjourney，andproposedtoexamineit，andreportonitscondition。
ButasIhadquitedeterminedtogotoDenmark，Irequestedhimtowaivetheexamination，andagreewiththecaptainaboutmypassage。
If，asIanticipated，hefoundthevesseltoowretched，hiswarningsmighthaveshakenmyresolution，andIwishedtoavoidthatcontingency。
Weheard，soon，thatayoungDanishgirl，whohadbeeninserviceinIceland，wishedtoreturnbythesamevessel。Shehadbeensufferingsomuchfromhome-sickness，thatshewasdetermined，underanycircumstances，toseeherbelovedfatherlandagain。If，thoughtItomyself，thehome-sicknessispowerfulenoughtomakethisgirlindifferenttothedanger，longingmusttakeitsplaceinmybreastandeffectthesameresult。
OursloopboretheconsolatorynameofHaabethope，andbelongedtothemerchantFromm，inCopenhagen。
Ourdeparturehadbeenfixedforthe26thofJuly，andafterthatdayIscarcelydaredtoleavemyhouse，beinginconstantexpectationofasummonsonboard。Violentstormsunfortunatelypreventedourdeparture，andIwasnotcalledtillthe29thofJuly，whenIhadtobidfarewelltoIceland。
Thiswascomparativelyeasy。AlthoughIhadseenmanywonderfulviews，manynewandinterestingnaturalphenomena，Iyetlongedformyaccustomedfields，inwhichwedonotfindmagnificentandoverpoweringscenes，butlovelierandmorecheerfulones。TheseparationfromHerrKnudsonandthefamilyofBernhoftwasmoredifficult。IowedallthekindnessIhadexperiencedintheisland，everygoodadviceandusefulassistanceinmytravels，onlytothem。
Mygratitudetothesekindandgoodpeoplewillnoteasilyfadefrommyheart。
AtnoonIwasalreadyonboard，andhadleisuretoadmireallthegayflagsandstreamerswithwhichtheFrenchfrigateanchoringherehadbeendecked，tocelebratetheanniversaryoftheJulyrevolution。
Iendeavouredtoturnmyattentionasmuchaspossibletoexteriorobjects，andnottolookatourship，forallthatIhadinvoluntarilyseenhadnotimpressedmeveryfavourably。I
determinedalsonottoenterthecabintillwewereintheopenseaandthepilotshadleftoursloop，sothatallpossibilityofreturnwouldbegone。
Ourcrewconsistedofcaptain，steersman，twosailors，andacabin-
boy，whoborethetitleofcook；weaddedthatofvalet，ashewasappointedtowaitonus。
Whenthepilotshadleftus，Isoughttheentranceofthecabin，——
theonly，andthereforethecommonapartment。Itconsistedofaholetwofeetbroad，whichgapedatmyfeet，andinwhichaperpendicularladderoffivestepswasinserted。Istoodbeforeitpuzzledtoknowwhichwouldbethebestmodeofdescent，butknewnootherwaythantoaskourhostthecaptain。Hesheweditmeatonce，bysittingattheentranceandlettinghisfeetdown。Letthereaderimaginesuchaproceedingwithourlongdresses，and，aboveall，inbadweather，whentheshipwaspitchedaboutbystorms。Butthethoughtthatmanyotherpeopleareworseoff，andcangeton，wasalwaystheanchorofconsolationtowhichIheld；IarguedwithmyselfthatIwasmadeofthesamestuffasotherhumanbeings，onlyspoiledandpampered，butthatIcouldbearwhattheybore。Inconsequenceofthisself-arguing，Isatdownatonce，triedthenewsliding-ladder，andarrivedbelowinsafety。
Ihadfirsttoaccustommyeyestothedarknesswhichreignedhere，thehatchesbeingconstructedtoadmitthelightverysparingly。I
soon，however，sawtoomuch；forallwasraggedness，dirt，anddisorder。ButIwilldescribemattersintheorderinwhichtheyoccurredtome；for，asIflattermyselfthatmanyofmycountrywomenwillinspiritmakethisjourneywithme，andasmanyofthemprobablyneverhadtheopportunityofbeinginsuchavessel，Iwishtodescribeittothemveryaccurately。AllwhoareaccustomedtotheseawilltestifythatIhaveadheredstrictlytothetruth。Buttoreturntothesloop。Itsageemulatedmine，shebeingarelicofthelastcentury。Atthattimelittleregardwaspaidtotheconvenienceofpassengers，andthespacewasallmadeavailableforfreight；afactwhichcannotsurpriseus，astheseaman\'slifeispassedondeck，andtheshipwasnotbuiltfortravellers。Theentirelengthofthecabinfromoneberthtotheotherwastenfeet；thebreadthwassixfeet。Thelatterspacewasmadestillnarrowerbyaboxononeside，andbyalittletableandtwolittleseatsontheother，sothatonlysufficientspaceremainedtopassthrough。
Atdinnerorsupper，theladies——theDanishgirlandmyself——satonthelittlebenches，whereweweresosqueezed，thatwecouldscarcelymove；thetwocavaliers——thecaptainandthesteersman——
wereobligedtostandbeforethetable，andeattheirmealsinthatposition。Thetablewassosmallthattheywereobligedtoholdtheirplatesintheirhands。Inshort，everythingshewedthecabinwasmadeonlyforthecrew，notforthepassengers。
Theairinthisenclosurewasalsonotofthepurest；for，besidesthatitformedourbed-room，dining-room，anddrawing-room，itwasalsousedasstore-room，forinthesidecupboardsprovisionsofvariouskindswerestored，alsooil-colours，andavarietyofothermatter。Ipreferredtositonthedeck，exposedtothecoldandthestorm，ortobebathedbyawave，thantobehalfstifledbelow。
Sometimes，however，Iwasobligedtodescend，eitherwhenrainandstormsweretooviolent，orwhentheshipwassotossedbycontrarywindsthatthedeckwasnotsafe。Therollingandpitchingofourlittlevesselwasoftensoterrible，thatweladiescouldneithersitnorstand，andwerethereforeobligedtoliedowninthemiserableberthsformanyawearyday。HowIenviedmycompanion!
shecouldsleepdayandnight，whichIcouldnot。Iwasnearlyalwaysawake，muchtomydiscomfort；forthehatchesandtheentrancewereclosedduringthestorm，andanEgyptiandarkness，aswellasastiflingatmosphere，filledthecabin。
Inregardtofood，allpassengers，captainandcrew，ateofthesamedish。Themorningmealconsistedofmiserabletea，orratherofnauseouswaterhavingthecolouroftea。Thesailorsimbibedtheirswithoutsugar，butthecaptainandthesteersmantookasmallpieceofcandiedsugar，whichdoesnotmeltsoquicklyastherefinedsugar，intheirmouth，andpoureddowncupaftercupoftea，andateship\'sbiscuitandbuttertoit。
Thedinnerfarevaried。Thefirstdaywehadsaltmeat，whichissoakedtheeveningbefore，andboiledthenextdayinsea-water。Itwassosalt，sohard，andsotough，thatonlyasailor\'spalatecanpossiblyenjoyit。Insteadofsoup，vegetables，andpudding，wehadpearl-barleyboiledinwater，withoutsaltorbutter；towhichtreacleandvinegarwasaddedatthedinner-table。Alltheothersconsideredthisadelicacy，andmarvelledatmydepravedtastewhenIdeclaredittobeunpalatable。
Theseconddaybroughtapieceofbacon，boiledinsea-water，withthebarleyrepeated。Onthethirdwehadcod-fishwithpeas。
Althoughthelatterwereboiledhardandwithoutbutter，theywerethemosteatableofallthedishes。Onthefourthdaythebilloffareofthefirstwasrepeated，andthesamecoursefollowedagain。
Attheendofeverydinnerwehadblackcoffee。Thesupperwaslikethebreakfast，——tea-water，ship\'sbiscuitandbutter。
Iwishedtohaveprovidedmyselfwithsomechickens，eggs，andpotatoesinReikjavik，butIcouldnotobtainanyoftheseluxuries。
Veryfewchickensarekept——onlythehigherofficialsormerchantshavethem；eggsofeider-ducksandotherbirdsmayoftenbehad，butmorearenevercollectedthanarewantedforthedailysupply，andthenonlyinspring；forpotatoestheseasonwasnotadvancedenough。MyreadershavenowapictureoftheluxuriouslifeIledonboardtheship。HadIbeenfortunateenoughtovoyageinabettervessel，wherethepassengersaremorecommodiouslylodgedandbetterfed，theseasicknesswouldcertainlynothaveattackedme；
butinconsequenceofthestiflingatmosphereofthecabinandthebadfood，Isufferedfromitthefirstday。ButonthesecondIwaswellagain，regainedmyappetite，andatesaltmeat，bacon，andpeasaswellasasailor；thestockfish，thebarley，andthecoffeeandtea，Ileftuntouched。
Arealsailorneverdrinkswater；andthisobservationofminewasconfirmedbyourcaptainandsteersman:insteadofbeerorwine，theytooktea，and，exceptatmeals，coldtea。
OnSundayeveningswehadagrandsupper，forthecaptainhadeighteggs，whichhehadbroughtfromDenmark，boiledforusfourpeople。
Thecrewhadafewglassesofpunch-essencemixedintheirtea。
Asmyreadersarenowacquaintedwiththevariedbilloffareinsuchaship，Iwillsayafewwordsofthetable-linen。Thisconsistedonlyofanoldsailcloth，whichwasspreadoverthetable，andlookedsodirtyandgreasythatIthoughtitwouldbemuchbetterandmoreagreeabletoleavethetableuncovered。ButIsoonrepentedtheunwisethought，anddiscoveredhowimportantthisclothwas。OnemorningIsawourvalettreatingapieceofsailclothquiteoutrageously:hehadspreadituponthedeck，stooduponit，andbrusheditcleanwiththeship\'sbroom。Irecognisedourtableclothbythemanyspotsofdirtandgrease，andintheeveningfoundthetablebare。Butwhatwastheconsequence?Scarcelyhadthetea-potbeenplacedonthetablethanitbegantoslipoff；hadnotthewatchfulcaptainquicklycaughtit，itwouldhavefallentothegroundandbathedourfeetwithitscontents。Nothingcouldstandonthepolishedtable，andIsincerelypitiedthecaptainthathehadnotanothertablecloth。
MyreaderswillimaginethatwhatIhavedescribedwouldhavebeenquitesufficienttomakemystayinthevesselanythingbutagreeable；butIdiscoveredanothercircumstance，whichevenmadeitalarming。Thiswasnothinglessthanthatourlittlevesselwasconstantlylettinginaconsiderablequantityofwater，whichhadtobepumpedouteveryfewhours。Thecaptaintriedtoallaymyuneasinessbyassertingthateveryshipadmittedwater，andoursonlyleakedalittlemorebecauseitwassoold。Iwasobligedtobecontentwithhisexplanation，asitwasnowtoolatetothinkofachange。Fortunatelywedidnotmeetwithanystorms，andthereforeincurredlessdanger。
Ourjourneylastedtwentydays，duringtwelveofwhichwesawnoland；thewinddroveustoofareasttoseetheFeroeortheShetlandIsles。Ishouldhavecaredlessforthis，hadIseensomeofthemonstersofthedeepinstead，butwemetwithscarcelyanyoftheseamiableanimals。Isawtherayofwaterwhichawhaleemittedfromhisnostrils，andwhichexactlyresembledafountain；theanimalitselfwasunfortunatelytoofarfromourshipforustoseeitsbody。Asharkcamealittlenearer；itswamroundourvesselforafewmoments，sothatIcouldeasilylookathim:itmusthavebeenfromsixteentoeighteenfeetlong。
Theso-calledflying-fishaffordedaprettysight。Theseawasascalmasamirror，theeveningmildandmoonlight；andsoweremainedondecktilllate，watchingthegambolsoftheseanimals。Asfaraswecouldsee，thewaterwascoveredwiththem。Wecouldrecognisetheyoungerfishesbytheirhighersprings；theyseemedtobethreetofourfeetlong，androsefivetosixfeetabovethesurfaceofthesea。Theirleapinglookedlikeanattemptatflying，buttheirgillsdidnotdothemgoodserviceinthetrial，andtheyfellbackimmediately。Theoldfishdidnotseemtohavethesameelasticity；
theyonlydescribedasmallarchlikethedolphins，andonlyrosesofarabovethewaterthatwecouldseethemiddlepartoftheirbody。
Thesefisharenotcaught；theyhavelittleoil，andanunpleasanttaste。
Onthethirteenthdayweagainsawland。WehadenteredtheSkagerrak，andsawthepeninsulaofJutland，withthetownofSkaggen。Thepeninsulalooksverydrearyfromthisside；itisflatandcoveredwithsand。
OnthesixteenthdayweenteredtheCattegat。Forsometimepastwehadalwayseitherbeenbecalmedorhadhadcontrarywinds，andhadbeentossedaboutintheSkagerrak，theCattegat，andtheSoundfornearlyaweek。Onsomedayswescarcelymadefifteentotwentyleaguesaday。OnsuchcalmdaysIpassedthetimewithfishing；
butthefishwerewiseenoughnottobitemyhook。Iwasdailyanticipatingadinnerofmackerel，butcaughtonlyone。
ThemultitudeofvesselssailingintotheCattegataffordedmemoreamusement；Icountedaboveseventy。ThenearerweapproachedtheentranceoftheSound，themoreimposingwasthesight，andthemorecloselywerethevesselscrowdedtogether。Fortunatelywewerefavouredbyabrightmoonlight；inadarkorstormynightweshouldnotwiththegreatestprecautionandskillhavebeenabletoavoidacollision。
Theinhabitantsofmoresouthernregionshavenoideaoftheextraordinaryclearnessandbrilliancyofanorthernmoonlightnight；itseemsalmostasifthemoonhadborrowedaportionofthesun\'slustre。IhaveseensplendidnightsonthecoastofAsia，ontheMediterranean；buthere，ontheshoresofScandinavia，theywerelighterandbrighter。
Iremainedondeckallnight；foritpleasedmetowatchtheforestsofmastscrowdedtogetherhere，andendeavouringsimultaneouslytogaintheentrancetotheSound。Ishouldnowbeabletoformatolerableideaofafleet，forthisnumberofshipsmustsurelyresembleamerchant-fleet。
OnthetwentiethdayofourjourneyweenteredtheportofHelsingor。TheSounddueshavetobepaidhere，or，asthesailorcallsit，theshipmustbecleared。Thisisaverytediousinterruption，andthestoppingandrestartingoftheshipveryincommodious。Thesailshavetobefurled，theanchorcast，theboatlowered，andthecaptainproceedsonshore；hourssometimeselapsebeforehehasfinished。Whenhereturnstotheship，theboathastobehoistedagain，theanchorraised，andthesailsunfurled。Sometimesthewindhaschangedinthemeantime；andinconsequenceoftheseformalities，theportofCopenhagencannotbereachedattheexpectedtime。
IfashipisunfortunateenoughtoreachHelsingoronadarknight，shemaynotenteratallforfearofacollision。ShehastoanchorintheCattegat，andthussuffertwointerruptions。IfshearrivesatHelsingorinthenightbeforefouro\'clock，shehastowait，asthecustom-houseisnotopenedtillthattime。
Theskipperis，however，atlibertytoproceeddirecttoCopenhagen，butthislibertycostsfivethalersfifteenshillings。If，however，thetollmaythusbepaidinCopenhagenjustaseasily，theobligationtostopatHelsingorisonlyatricktogainthehighertoll；forifacaptainisinhaste，orthewindistoofavourabletobelost，heforfeitsthefivethalers，andsailsontoCopenhagen。
Ourcaptaincaredneitherfortimenortrouble；heclearedtheshiphere，andsowedidnotreachCopenhagenuntiltwoo\'clockintheafternoon。Aftermylongabsence，itseemedsofamiliar，sobeautifulandgrand，asifIhadseennothingsobeautifulinmywholelife。Myreadersmustbearinmind，however，whereIcamefrom，andhowlongIhadbeenimprisonedinavesselinwhichI
scarcelyhadspacetomove。WhenIputfootonshoreagain，IcouldhaveimitatedColumbus，andprostratedmyselftokisstheearth。
DEPARTUREFROMCOPENHAGEN——CHRISTIANIA。
Onthe19thAugust，thedayaftermyarrivalfromIceland，attwoo\'clockintheafternoon，Ihadalreadyembarkedagain；thistimeinthefineroyalNorwegiansteamerChristiania，of170horsepower，boundforthetownofChristiania，distant304sea-milesfromCopenhagen。WehadsoonpassedthroughtheSoundandarrivedsafelyintheCattegat，inwhichwesteeredmoretotherightthanonthejourneytoIceland；forwenotonlyintendedtoseeNorwayandSweden，buttocastanchoronthecoast。
WecouldplainlyseethefinechainofmountainswhichboundtheCattegatontheright，andwhoseextremepoint，theKulm，runsintothesealikealongpromontory。Lighthousesareerectedhere，andontheothernumerousdangerousspotsofthecoast，andtheirlightsshineallaroundinthedarknight。Someofthelightsaremovable，andsomestationary，andpointouttothesailorwhichplacestoavoid。
August20th。
Badweatherisoneofthegreatesttormentsofatraveller，andismoredisagreeablewhenonepassesthroughdistrictsremarkableforbeautyandoriginality。Bothgrievanceswereunitedto-day；itrained，almostincessantly；andyetthepassageoftheSwedishcoastandofthelittlefiordtotheportofGottenburgwasofpeculiarinterest。Theseaherewasmorelikeabroadstreamwhichisboundedbynoblerocks，andinterspersedbysmallandlargerocksandshoals，overwhichthewatersdashedfinely。Neartheharbour，somebuildingsliepartlyonandpartlybetweentherocks；thesecontainthecelebratedroyalSwedishiron-foundry，calledthenewfoundry。EvennumerousAmericanshipswerelyingheretoloadthismetal。{46}
ThesteamerremainsmorethanfourhoursintheportofGottenburg，andwehadthereforetimetogointothetown，distantabouttwomiles，andwhosesuburbsextendasfarastheport。Onthelanding-
quayacaptainliveswhohasalwaysacarriageandtwohorsesreadytodrivetravellersintothetown。Therearealsoone-horsevehicles，andevenanomnibus。Theformerwerealreadyengaged；thelatter，weweretold，drivessoslowly，thatnearlythewholetimeislostontheroad；soIandtwotravellingcompanionshiredthecaptain\'scarriage。Therainpouredintorrentsonourheads；butthisdidnotdisturbusmuch。Mytwocompanionshadbusinesstotransact，andcuriosityattractedme。IhadnotatthattimeknowthatIshouldhaveoccasiontovisitthisprettylittletownagain，andwouldnotleavewithoutseeingit。
Thesuburbsarebuiltentirelyofwood，andcontainmanyprettyone-
storyhouses，surrounded，forthemostpart，bylittlegardens。Thesituationofthesuburbsisverypeculiar。Rocks，orlittlefieldsandmeadows，oftenliebetweenthehouses；therocksevennowandthencrossthestreets，andhadtobeblastedtoformaroad。Theviewfromoneofthehillsoverwhichtheroadtothetownliesistrulybeautiful。
Thetownhastwolargesquares:onthesmalleronestandsthelargechurch；onthelargeronethetown-hall，thepost-office，andmanyprettyhouses。Inthetowneverythingisbuiltofbricks。TheriverHamflowsthroughthelargesquare，andincreasesthetrafficbythemanyshipsandbarksrunningintoitfromthesea，andbringingprovisions，butprincipallyfuel，tomarket。Severalbridgescrossit。Avisittothewell-stockedfish-marketisalsoaninterestingfeatureinashortvisittothistown。
IenteredaSwedishhouseforthefirsttimehere。Iremarkedthatthefloorwasstrewedoverwiththefinepointsofthefir-trees，whichhadanagreeableodour，amorehealthyoneprobablythananyartificialperfume。IfoundthiscustomprevalentalloverSwedenandNorway，butonlyinhotelsandinthedwellingsofthepoorerclasses。
Abouteleveno\'clockintheforenoonwecontinuedourjourney。Westeeredsafelythroughthemanyrocksandshoals，andsoonreachedtheopenseaagain。Wedidnotstandoutfarfromtheshore，andsawseveraltelegraphserectedontherocks。WesoonlostsightofDenmarkontheleft，andarrivedatthefortressFriedrichsvertowardsevening，butcouldnotseemuchofit。Heretheso-calledScherenbegin，whichextendsixtyleagues，andformtheChristian\'sSound。BywhatIcouldseeinthedimtwilight，thescenewasbeautiful。Numerousislands，somemerelyconsistingofbarerocks，othersovergrownwithslenderpines，surroundedusonallsides。
Butourpilotunderstoodhisbusinessperfectly，andsteeredussafelythroughtoSandesund，spiteofthedarknight。Hereweanchored，foritwouldhavebeentoodangeroustoproceed。WehadtowaithereforthesteamerfromBergen，whichexchangedpassengerswithus。Theseawasveryrough，andthisexchangewasthereforeextremelydifficulttoeffect。Neitherofthesteamerswouldloweraboat；atlastoursteamergaveway，aftermidnight，andtheterrifiedandwailingpassengerswereloweredintoit。Ipitiedthemfrommyheart，butfortunatelynoaccidenthappened。
August21stIcouldseethesituationofSandesundbetterbyday；andfoundittoconsistonlyofafewhouses。Thewaterissohemmedinherethatitscarcelyattainsthebreadthofastream；butitsoonwidensagain，andincreasesinbeautyandvarietywitheveryyard。Weseemedtorideonabeautifullake；fortheislandsliesoclosetothemountainsinthebackground，thattheylooklikeacontinent，andthebaystheyformlikethemouthsofrivers。Thenextmomentthescenechangestoasuccessionoflakes，onecomingcloseontheother；andwhentheshipappearstobehemmedin，anewopeningissuddenlypresentedtotheeyebehindanotherisland。Theislandsthemselvesareofamostvariedcharacter:someonlyconsistofbarerocks，withnowandthenapine；somearerichlycoveredwithfieldsandgroves；andtheshorepresentssomanyfinescenes，thatonehardlyknowswheretolookinordernottomissanyofthebeautiesofthescenery。Herearehighmountainsovergrownfromthebottomtothesummitwithdarkpine-groves；thereagainlovelyhills，withverdantmeadows，fertilefields，prettyfarmsteadsandyards；andonanothersidethemountainsseparateandformabeautifulperspectiveofprecipicesandvalleys。SometimesIcouldfollowthebendofabaytillitmingledwiththedistantclouds；atotherswepassedthemostbeautifulvalleys，dottedwithlittlevillagesandtowns。Icannotdescribethebeautiesofthesceneryinadequateterms:mywordsaretooweak，andmyknowledgetooinsignificant；andIcanonlygiveanideaofmyemotions，butnotdescribethem。
NearWalloethecountrygrowslessbeautiful；themountainsdecreaseintohills，andthewaterisnotstuddedwithislands。Thelittletownitselfisalmostconcealedbehindthehills。Aremarkablefeatureisthelongrowofwoodenhutsandhousesadjoining，whichallbelongtoasalt-workestablishedthere。
WeenteredoneofthemanylittlearmsoftheseatoreachthetownofMoss。Itssituationisbeautiful，beingbuiltamphi-theatricallyonahillockwhichleansagainstahighmountain。Afinebuildingonthesea-shore，whoseporticorestsuponpillars，isusedforabathinginstitution。
Adock-yard，inwhichmen-of-wararebuiltattheexpenseofthestate，issituatednearthetownofHorten，whichisalsopicturesquelyplaced。Theredoesnotseemtobemuchworkdoinghere，forIonlysawoneshiplyingatanchor，andnoneonthestocks。AbouteightleaguesbeyondHortenamountainrisesinthemiddleofthesea，anddividesitintotwostreams，unitingagainbeyondit，andformingaprettyview。
WedidnotseeChristianiatillwewereonlytenleaguesfromit。
Thetown，thesuburbs，thefortress，thenewly-erectedroyalpalace，thefreemasons\'lodge，&c。，lieinasemicircleroundtheport，andareboundedbyfields，meadows，woods，andhills，formingadelightfulcoup-d\'oeil。Itseemsasiftheseacouldnotpartfromsuchalovelyview，andrunsinnarrowstreams，throughhillsandplains，toagreatdistancebeyondthetown。
Towardseleveno\'clockintheforenoonwereachedtheportofChristiania。WehadcomefromSandesundinsevenhours，andhadstoppedfourtimesontheway；buttheboatswithnew-comers，withmerchandiseandletters，hadalwaysbeenready，hadbeenreceived，andwehadproceededwithoutanyconsiderabledelay。
CHAPTERVIII
Myfirstcareonarrivinginthistownwastofindacountrywomanofminewhohadbeenmarriedtoalawyerhere。ItissaidoftheViennesethattheycannotliveawayfromtheirStephen\'ssteeple；
butherewasaproofofthecontrary，fortherearefewcoupleslivingsohappilyasthesefriends，andyettheywerenearlyonethousandmilesfromSt。Stephen\'ssteeple。{47}
Ipassedthroughthewholetownonthewayfromthequaytothehotel，andthencetomyfriend。Thetownisnotlarge，andnotverypretty。Thenewly-builtportionisthebest，foritatleasthasbroad，tolerablylongstreets，inwhichthehousesareofbrick，andsometimeslarge。Intheby-streetsIfrequentlyfoundwoodenbarracksreadytofall。Thesquareislarge，butirregular；andasitisusedasageneralmarket-place，itisalsoverydirty。
Inthesuburbsthehousesaremostlybuiltofwood。Therearesomeratherprettypublicbuildings；thefinestamongthemaretheroyalcastleandthefortress。Theyarebuiltonlittleelevations，andaffordabeautifulview。Theoldroyalpalaceisinthetown，butnotatalldistinguishablefromacommonprivatehouse。ThehouseinwhichtheStorthing{48}assemblesislarge，anditsporticorestsonpillars；butthestepsareofwood，asinallstonehousesinScandinavia。Thetheatreseemedlargeenoughforthepopulation；
butIdidnotenterit。Thefreemasons\'lodgeisoneofthemostbeautifulbuildingsinthetown；itcontainstwolargesaloons，whichareusedforassembliesorfestivitiesofvariouskinds，besidesservingasthemeeting-placeofthefreemasons。Theuniversityseemedalmosttoorichlybuilt；itisnotfinishedyet，butissobeautifulthatitwouldbeanornamenttothelargestcapital。Thebutchers\'marketisalsoverypretty。Itisofasemi-circularshape，andissurroundedbyarchedpassages，inwhichthebuyersstand，shelteredfromtheweather。Thewholeedificeisbuiltofbricks，leftintheirnaturalstate，neitherstuccoedwithmortarnorwhitewashed。Therearenotmanyotherpalacesorfinepublicbuildings，andmostofthehousesareone-storied。
Oneofthefeaturesoftheplace——acustomwhichisofgreatusetothetraveller，andprevailsinallScandinaviantowns——is，thatthenamesofthestreetsareaffixedateverycorner，sothatthepasser-byalwaysknowswhereheis，withoutthenecessityofaskinghisway。
Opencanalsrunthroughthetown；andonsuchnightsasthealmanacannouncesafullorbrightmoonthestreetsarenotlighted。
Woodenquayssurroundtheharbour，onwhichseverallargewarehouses，likewisebuiltofwood，aresituated；but，likemostofthehouses，theyareroofedwithtiles。
Thearrangementanddisplayofthestoresaresimple，andthewaresverybeautiful，thoughnotofhomemanufacture。Veryfewfactoriesexisthere，andeverythinghastobeimported。
Iwasmuchshockedattheraggedly-cladpeopleImeteverywhereinthestreets；theyoungmenespeciallylookedveryragged。Theyrarelybegged；butIshouldnothavebeenpleasedtomeetthemaloneinaretiredstreet。
IwasfortunateenoughtobeinChristianiaatthetimewhentheStorthingwassitting。Thistakesplaceeverythreeyears；thesessionscommenceinJanuaryorFebruary，andusuallylastthreemonths；butsomuchbusinesshadthistimeaccumulated，thatthekingproposedtoextendthelengthofthesession。TothisfortunateaccidentIowedthepleasureofwitnessingsomeofthemeetings。ThekingwasexpectedtoclosetheproceedingsinSeptember。{49}
Thehallofmeetingislongandlarge。Fourrowsoftapestriedseats，onerisingabovetheother，runlengthwaysalongthehall，andaffordroomforeightylegislators。Oppositethebenchesatablestandsonaraisedplatform，andatthistablethepresidentandsecretarysit。Agallery，whichisopentothepublic，runsroundtheupperportionofthehall。
AlthoughIunderstoodbutlittleoftheNorwegianlanguage，I
attendedthemeetingsdailyforanhour。Icouldatleastdistinguishwhetherlongorshortspeechesweremade，orwhethertheoratorspokefluently。Unfortunately，thespeakersIheardspokethefewwordstheymusteredcouragetodeliversoslowlyandhesitatingly，thatIcouldnotformaveryfavourableideaofNorwegianeloquence。IwastoldthattheStorthingonlycontainedthreeorfourgoodspeakers，andtheydidnotdisplaytheirtalentsduringmystay。
IhaveneverseensuchavarietyofcarriagesasImetwithhere。
ThecommonestandmostincommodiousarecalledCarriols。Acarriolconsistsofanarrow，long，openbox，restingbetweentwoimmenselyhighwheels，andprovidedwithaverysmallseat。Youaresqueezedintothiscontrivance，andhavetostretchyourfeetforward。Youarethenbuckledinwithaleatherapronashighasthehips，andmustremaininthisposition，withoutmovingalimb，fromthebeginningtotheendofyourride。Aboardishungonbehindtheboxforthecoachman；andfromthisperchhe，inakneelingorstandingposition，directsthehorses，unlessthetemporaryresidentoftheboxshouldprefertotakethereinshimself。Asitisveryunpleasanttohearthequiveringofthereinsononesideandthesmackingofthewhipontheother，everyone，menandwomen，candrive。Besidesthesecarriols，therearephaetons，droschkas，butnoclosedvehicles。
Thecartswhichareusedforthetransportofbeerareofaverypeculiarconstruction。TheconsumptionofbeerinChristianiaisverygreat，anditisatoncebottledwhenmade，andnotsoldincasks。Thecartsforthetransportofthesebottlesconsistofroomycoveredboxesafootandahalfhigh，whicharedividedintopartitionslikeacellaret，inwhichmanybottlescanbeeasilyandsafelytransportedfromoneparttoanother。
Anotherspeciesofbasket，whichtheservantsusetocarrysucharticlesasaredampordirty，andwhichmyreaderswillexcusemydescribing，ismadeoffinewhitetin，andprovidedwithahandle。
Strawbasketsareonlyusedforbread，andfordryandcleanprovisions。
TherearenopublicgardensorassembliesinChristiania，butnumerouspromenades；indeed，everyroadfromthetownleadstothemostbeautifulscenery，andeveryhillintheneighbourhoodaffordsthemostdelightfulprospects。
Ladegardoenistheonlyspotwhichisoftenresortedtobythecitizensbycarriageoronfoot。Itaffordsmanyandsplendidviewsoftheseaanditsislands，ofthesurroundingmountains，valleys，andpineandfirgroves。Themajorityofthecountry-housesarebuilthere。Theyaregenerallysmall，butpretty，andsurroundedbyflower-gardensandorchards。Whilethere，Iseemedtobefarinthesouth，sogreenandverdantwasthescenery。Thecorn-fieldsalonebetrayedthenorth。Notthatthecornwaspoor；onthecontrary，I
foundmanyearsbendingtothegroundundertheirweight；butnow，towardstheendofAugust，mostofitwasstandinguncutinthefields。
Nearthetownstandsapine-grove，fromwhichonehassplendidviews；twomonumentsareraisedinit，butneitherofthemareofimportance:oneisraisedtothememoryofacrown-princeofSweden，ChristianAugustus；theothertoCountHermannWenelJarlsberg。
JOURNEYTODELEMARKEN。
AllIhadhithertoseeninNorwayhadgratifiedmesomuch，thatI
couldnotresistthetemptationofajourneytothewildlyromanticregionsofDelemarken。Iwasindeedtoldthatitwouldbeadifficultundertakingforafemale，aloneandalmostentirelyignorantofthelanguage，tomakeherwaythroughthepeasantry。
ButIfoundnoonetoaccompanyme，andwasdeterminedtogo；soI
trustedtofate，andwentalone。
AccordingtotheinquiresIhadinstitutedinrespecttothisjourney，Ianticipatedthatmygreatestdifficultieswouldarisefromtheabsenceofallinstitutionsforthespeedyandcomfortableprogressoftravellers。Oneisforcedtopossessacarriage，andtohirehorsesateverystation。Itissometimespossibletohireavehicle，butthisgenerallyconsistsonlyofamiserablepeasant\'scart。Ihired，therefore，acarriolforthewholejourney，andahorsetothenextstation，thetownletofDrammen，distantabouttwenty-fourmiles。
Onthe25thAugust，atthreeo\'clockintheafternoon，IleftChristiania，squeezedmyselfintomycarriage，and，followingtheexampleofNorwegiandames，Iseizedthereins。IdroveasifIhadbeenusedtoitfrominfancy。Iturnedrightandleft，andmyhorsegallopedandtrottedgailyon。
TheroadtoDrammenisexquisite，andwouldaffordrichsubjectsforanartist。Allthebeautiesofnatureareherecombinedinmostperfectharmony。Therichnessandvarietyofthesceneryarealmostoppressive，andwouldbeaninexhaustiblesubjectforthepainter。
ThevegetationismuchricherthanIhadhopedtofinditsofarnorth；everyhill，everyrock，isshadedbyverdantfoliage；thegreenofthemeadowswasofincomparablefreshness；thegrasswasintermingledwithflowersandherbs，andthecorn-fieldsbentundertheirgoldenweight。
Ihavebeeninmanycountries，andhaveseenbeautifuldistricts；I
havebeeninSwitzerland，inTyrol，inItaly，andinSalzburg；butI
neversawsuchpeculiarlybeautifulsceneryasIfoundhere:theseaeverywhereintrudingandfollowingustoDrammen；hereformingalovelylakeonwhichboatswererocking，thereastreamrushingthroughhillsandmeadows；andthenagain，thesplendidexpansedottedwithproudthree-mastersandwithcountlessislets。Afterafivehours\'ridethroughrichvalleysandsplendidgroves，IreachedthetownofDrammen，whichliesontheshoresoftheseaandtheriverStorriElf，andwhosevicinitywasannouncedbythebeautifulcountry-housesornamentingtheapproachtoit。
Along，well-builtwoodenbridge，furnishedwithbeautifulironpalisadings，leadsovertheriver。ThetownofDrammenhasprettystreetsandhouses，andabove6000inhabitants。ThehotelwhereI
lodgedwasprettyandclean。Mybedroomwasalargeroom，withwhichthemostfastidiousmighthavebeencontented。Thesupperwhichtheyprovidedformewas，however，mostfrugal，consistingonlyofsoft-boiledeggs。Theygavemeneithersaltnorbreadwiththem，noraspoon；nothingbutaknifeandfork。Anditisamysterytomehowsofteggscanbeeatenwithoutbread，andwithaknifeandfork。
August25th。
Ihiredafreshhorsehere，withwhichIproceededtoKongsberg，eighteenmilesfarther。Thefirstsevenmilesaffordedarepetitionoftheromanticsceneryofthepreviousday，withtheexceptionofthesea。ButinsteadIhadthebeautifulriver，untilIhadascendedahill，fromwhosesummitIoverlookedalargeandapparentlypopulousvalley，filledwithgroupsofhousesandsinglefarms。ItisstrangethatthereareveryfewlargetownsinNorway；
everypeasantbuildshishouseinthemidstofhisfields。
Beyondthishillthescenerygrowsmoremonotonous。Themountainsarelower，thevalleynarrower，andtheroadisenclosedbywoodorrocks。OnepeculiarityofNorwegianrocksistheirhumidity。Thewaterpenetratesthroughcountlessfissures，butonlyinsuchsmallquantitiesastocoverthestoneswithakindofveil。Whenthesunshinesonthesewetsurfacesofrock，ofwhichtherearemanyandlargeones，theyshinelikemirrors。
Delemarkenseemstobetolerablypopulous。Ioftenmetwithsolitarypeasant-hutsinthelargegloomyforests，andtheygavesomelifetothemonotonouslandscape。TheindustryoftheNorwegianpeasantisverygreat；foreveryspotofearth，evenonthesteepestprecipices，borepotatoes，barley，oroats；theirhousesalsolookcheerful，andwerepaintedforthemostpartofabrick-redcolour。
Ifoundtheroadsverygood，especiallytheonefromChristianiatoDrammen；andtheonefromDrammentoKongsbergwasnotveryobjectionable。ThereissuchanabundanceofwoodinNorway，thatthestreetsoneachsidearefencedbywoodenenclosures；andeveryfieldandmeadowissimilarlyprotectedagainsttheintrusionofcattle，andthemiserableroadsthroughthewoodsareevencoveredwithroundtrunksoftrees。
Thepeasantryinthisdistricthavenopeculiarcostume；onlythehead-coveringofthefemalesiscurious。Theywearalady\'shat，suchaswasfashionableinthelastcentury，ornamentedwithabunchbehind，andwithanimmenseshadeinfront。Theyaremadeofanymaterial，generallyoftheremainsofoldgarments；andonlyonSundaysbetterones，andsometimesevensilkones，maketheirappearance。
IntheneighbourhoodofKongsbergthishead-dressisnolongerworn。
TheretheywearlittlecapsliketheSuabianpeasantry，petticoatscommencingundertheshoulders，andveryshortspencers:averyuglycostume，thewholefigurebeingspoiltbytheshortwaist。
ThetownofKongsbergisratherextended，andisbeautifullysituatedonahillinthecentreofasplendidwoodedvalley。Itis，likeallthetownsinNorwayexceptChristiania，builtofwood；
butithasmanypretty，neathousesandsomebroadstreets。
ThestreamStorriElfflowspastthetown，andformsasmallbutverypicturesquewaterfallalittlebelowthebridge。Whatpleasedmemostwasthecolourofthewaterasitsurgedovertherock。ItwasaboutnoonasIdroveacrossthebridge；thesunilluminatedthewholecountryaround，andthewavesbreakingagainsttherocksseemedbythislightofabeautifulpale-yellowcolour，sothattheyresembledthickmassesofpuretransparentamber。
TworemarkablesightsclaimedmyattentionatKongsberg，——arichsilver-mine，andasplendidwaterfallcalledtheLabrafoss。ButasmytimewaslimitedandIcouldonlyremainafewhoursinKongsberg，Ipreferredtoseethewaterfallandbelievetheaccountsofthesilver-mine；whichwere，thatthedeepestshaftwaseighthundredfeetbelowthesurface，andthatitwasmostdifficulttoremainthere，asthecold，thesmoke，andthepowder-smellhadaverynoxiouseffectonthetravelleraccustomedtolightandair。
Ithereforehiredahorseanddrovetothefall，whichissituatedinanarrowpassaboutfourmilesfromKongsberg。Therivercollectsinaquietcalmbasinalittledistanceabovethefall，andthenrushesoverthesteepprecipicewithasuddenbound。Theconsiderabledepthofthefallandthequalityofwatermakeitaveryimposingsight。Thisisincreasedbyagiganticrockplantedlikeawallinthelowerbasin，andopposingitsbodytotheprogressofthehurryingwaters。Thewavesreboundfromtherock，and，collectinginmightymasses，rushoverit，formingseveralsmallerwaterfallsintheircourse。
Iwatcheditfromahighrock，andwasneverthelesscoveredbythespraytosuchadegree，thatIsometimescouldscarcelyopenmyeyes。Myguidethentookmetothelowerpartofthefall，sothatImighthaveaviewofitfromallsides；andeachviewseemeddifferentandmoresplendid。IperceivedthesameyellowtransparentcolourwhichIhadremarkedinthefallatKongsberginthewaterswhichdashedovertherockandwereilluminatedbythesun。Iimagineitarisesfromtherock，whichiseverywhereofabrownish-redcolour，forthewateritselfwasclearandpure。
Atfouro\'clockintheafternoonIleftKongsberg，anddrovetoBolkesoe，adistanceofeighteenmiles。Itwasbynomeansabeautifuloranagreeabledrive；fortheroadwasverybad，andtookmethroughpassesandvalleys，acrosswoodsandoversteepmountains，whilethenightwasdarkandunilluminatedbythemoon。
Thethoughtinvoluntarilyenteredmymind，howeasilymyguide，whosatclosebehindmeonthevehicle，couldputmeoutoftheworldbyagentleblow，andtakepossessionofmyeffects。ButIhadconfidenceintheuprightcharacteroftheNorwegians，anddroveonquietly，devotingmyattentionentirelytothereinsofmylittlesteed，whichIhadtoleadwithasurehandoverhillandvalley，overrutsandstones，andalongprecipices。Iheardnosoundbuttherushingofthemountain-river，whichleaped，closebesideus，overtherocks，andwasheardrushinginthefardistance。
WedidnotarriveatBolkesoeuntilteno\'clockatnight。Whenwestoppedbeforeaninsignificant-lookingpeasant\'scot，andI
rememberedmyIcelandicnight-accommodations，whoseexteriorthisresembled，mycouragefailedme；butIwasagreeablydisappointedwhenthepeasant\'swifeledmeupabroadstaircaseintoalargecleanchamberfurnishedwithseveralgoodbeds，somebenches，atable，abox，andanironstove。Ifoundequalcomfortsonallthestationsofmyjourney。
Therearenoproperhotelsorposthousesonthelittle-frequentedNorwegianroads；butthewealthypeasantsundertakethedutiesofboth。Iwould，however，adviseeverytravellertoprovidehimselfwithbreadandotherprovisionsforthetrip；forhispeasant-hostrarelycanfurnishhimwiththese。Hiscowsareonthehillsduringthesummer；fowlsarefartoogreataluxuryforhim；andhisbreadisscarcelyeatable:itconsistsoflargeroundcakes，scarcelyhalfaninchthick，andveryhard；orofequallylargecakesscarcelyasthickasaknife，andquitedry。TheonlyeatablesI
foundwerefishandpotatoes；andwheneverIcouldstayforseveralhours，theyfetchedmilkformefromthehills。
Thetravellingconveniencesarestillmoreunattainable；buttheseI
willmentioninafuturechapter，whenmyexperiencewillbealittlemoreextensive。
August26th。
IcouldnotseethesituationofthetownofBolkesoetilldaylightto-day，forwhenIarrivedthedarknessofnightconcealedit。Itissituatedinaprettywoodedvale，onalittlehillatwhosefootliesabeautifullakeofthesamename。
TheroadfromheretoTindosoe，aboutsixteenmiles，isnotpracticableforvehicles，andIthereforeleftmycarriolhereandproceededonhorseback。Thecountrygrowsmorequietanduninhabited，andthevalleysbecomerealchasms。Twolakesofconsiderablesizeformanagreeablevarietytothewildnessofthescenery。Thelargerone，calledtheFoelsoe，isofaregularform，andabovetwomilesindiameter；itisencircledbypicturesquemountains。Theeffectoftheshadowswhichthepine-coveredmountain-topsthrowonthelakesisparticularlyattractive。Irodealongitsshoresformorethananhour，andhadleisuretoseeandexamineeverythingveryaccurately，forthehorsesheretravelataveryslowpace。Thereasonofthisispartlythattheguidehasnohorse，andwalksbesideyouinaverysleepymanner；thehorseknowsitsmaster\'speculiaritiesbylongexperience，andisonlytoowillingtoencouragehiminhisslow，dullpace。IspentmorethanfivehoursinreachingTindosoe。MynextobjectofinterestwasthecelebratedwaterfallofRykanfoss，toreachwhichwehadtocrossalargelake。Althoughithadrainedincessantlyforanhour，andtheskylookedthreatening，Iatoncehiredaboatwithtworowerstocontinuemyjourneywithoutinterruption；forIanticipatedastorm，andthenIshouldnothavefoundaboatmanwhowouldhaveventuredavoyageoffourorfivehoursonthisdangerouslake。Intwohoursmyboatwasready，andIstartedinthepouringrain，butrejoicedatleastattheabsenceoffog，whichwouldhaveconcealedthebeautiesofnaturewhichsurroundedme。Thelakeiseighteenmileslong，butinmanypartsonlyfromtwotothreemileswide。Itissurroundedbymountains，whichriseinterraceswithouttheleastgaptoadmitadistantview。Asthemountainsarenearlyallcoveredwithdarkfir-groves，andovershadowthewholebreadthofthenarrowlake，thewaterseemsquitedark，andalmostblack。Thislakeisdangeroustonavigateonaccountofthemanyrocksrisingperpendicularlyoutofthewater，which，inastorm，shatteraboatdashedagainstthemtopieces，andthepassengerswouldfindaninevitablegraveinthedeepwaters。Wehadafleshandafavourablebreeze，whichblewusquicklytoourdestination。Oneoftherocksonthecoasthasaveryloudecho。
Anislandaboutamilelongdividesthelakeintoequalparts；andwhenwehadpassedit，thelandscapebecamequitepeculiar。Themountainsseemedtopushbeforeeachother，andtrywhosefootshouldextendfarthestintothesea。Thisformsnumerouslovelybays；butfewofthemareadaptedforlanding，asthedangerousrocksseemtoprojecteverywhere。
Thelittledotsoffieldandmeadowwhichseemtohangagainsttherock，andthemodestcottagesofthepeasants，whicharebuiltonthepointsofthemostdangerousprecipices，andoverwhichrocksandstonestowerasmountains，presentaverycuriousappearance。
Themostfearfulrockshangoverthehuts，andthreatentocrushthembyfalling，whichwouldinevitablycarrycottageandfieldwiththemintothesea。Itisdifficulttosaywhethertheboldnessorthestupidityofthepeasantsinducesthemtochoosesuchlocalitiesfortheirdwellings。
Fromthemountainsmanyriversflowintothelake，andformbeautifulfalls。Thismightonlyhavebeenthecaseatthattime，becauseitwasrainingincessantly，andthewaterpoureddownfromallsides，sothatthemountainsseemedembroideredwithsilverthreads。Itwasabeautifulsight；butIwouldwillinglyhaverelinquisheditforadayofsunshine。Itisnotrifletobeexposedtosuchashower-bathfrommorningtillnight；Iwaswetthrough，andhadnohopeforbetterweather，astheskywascloudedallround。Myperseverancewasnearlyexhausted；andIwasonthepointofrelinquishingthepurposeofmyjourney，——thesightofthehighestNorwegianwaterfall，——whenitoccurredtomethatthebadweatherwasmostfavourableformyplan，aseachdropofwaterwouldincreasethesplendourofthewaterfall。
Afterthreehoursandahalf\'srowingwereachedHaukaness-am-See，whereitisusualtostopanightasthereisaprettyfarmhere，andthedistancefromthefallisstillconsiderable。
August27th。
Myfirstcareinthemorningwastheweather；itwasunchanged，andtheexperiencedpeasantsprophesiedthatitwouldremainwet。AsI
wouldnotreturnnorwaitforbetterweather，Icouldonlytaketomyboatagain，putonmyhalf-driedcloak，androwonboldly。
Theterminationofthelake，whichwesoonreached，wasalreadysufficienttocompensateformyperseverance。Ahighmountainadvancesintothelake，anddividesitintotwobeautifulbays。Weenteredtheleftbay，andlandedatMael，whichliesatthemouthoftheriverRykaness。ThedistancefromHaukanessisalittlemorethantwomiles。Ihadtomountahorsetoreachthewaterfall，whichwasyetelevenmilesdistant。Theroadrunsthroughanarrowvalley，whichgraduallynarrowsstillmoreuntilitcanonlycontaintheriver；andthetravellerisobligedtoascendtheheightsandgropeonalongthesidesofthemountains。Belowinthevaleheseesthefoamofthewavessurgingagainsttherocks；theyflowlikeanarrowbandofsilverinthedeepchasm。Sometimesthepathissohighthatoneneitherseesnorhearstheriver。Thelasthalfmilehastobejourneyedonfoot，andgoespastspotswhicharereallydangerous；numerouswaterfallsrushfromthemountain-sides，andhavetobecrossedonpathsoftree-trunkslaidalongsideeachother；androadsscarcelyafootwideleadalonggiddyprecipices。
Butthetravellermaytrustunhesitatinglytohisguide\'sarm，whohashithertoledeveryoneinsafetytohisdestination。
TheroadfromHaukanesstothewaterfallmustbethefinestthatcanbeimaginedonabrightsunnyday；forIwasenchantedwiththewildly-romanticsceneryinspiteoftheincessantrainandmywetclothes，andwouldonnoconsiderationhavemissedthissight。