Theirshoeswerealwayscominguntied,andtheyworeouttwosetsinfourmiles。Thetopofthepass,likethatofagreatmanyothers,isanarrowridge,onthefarthersideofwhichthetrackdipsabruptlyintoatremendousravine,alongwhosesidewedescendedforamileorsoincompanywithariverwhosereverberatingthunderdrownedallattemptsatspeech。Agloriousviewitwas,lookingdownbetweenthewoodedprecipicestoarollingwoodedplain,lyingindepthsofindigoshadow,boundedbyrangesofwoodedmountains,andovertoppedbyheightsheavilysplotchedwithsnow!Thevegetationwassignificantofamilderclimate。Themagnoliaandbamboore-appeared,andtropicalfernsmingledwiththebeautifulbluehydrangea,theyellowJapanlily,andthegreatbluecampanula。TherewasanoceanoftreesentangledwithabeautifultrailerActinidiapolygamawithaprofusionofwhiteleaves,which,atadistance,looklikegreatclustersofwhiteblossoms。Buttherankundergrowthoftheforestsofthisregionisnotattractive。Manyofitscomponentpartsdeservethenameofweeds,beinggawky,raggedumbels,coarsedocks,ranknettles,andmanyotherthingswhichIdon’tknow,andneverwishtoseeagain。Neartheendofthisdescentmymaretookthebitbetweenherteethandcarriedmeatanungainlygallopintothebeautifullysituated,precipitousvillageofIchikawa,whichisabsolutelysaturatedwithmoisturebythesprayofafinewaterfallwhichtumblesthroughthemiddleofit,anditstreesandroad-sidearegreenwiththeProtococcusviridis。TheTransportAgenttherewasawoman。Womenkeepyadoyasandshops,andcultivatefarmsasfreelyasmen。Boardsgivingthenumberofinhabitants,maleandfemale,andthenumberofhorsesandbullocks,areputupineachvillage,andInoticedinIchikawa,aseverywherehitherto,thatmenpreponderate。{12}I。L。B。
ThePlainofWakamatsu——LightCostume——TheTakataCrowd——ACongressofSchoolmasters——TimidityofaCrowd——BadRoads——ViciousHorses——
MountainScenery——APicturesqueInn——SwallowingaFish-bone——
PovertyandSuicide——AnInn-kitchen——EnglandUnknown!——MyBreakfastDisappears。
AshortridetookusfromIchikawatoaplainaboutelevenmilesbroadbyeighteenlong。ThelargetownofWakamatsustandsnearitssouthernend,anditissprinkledwithtownsandvillages。ThegreatlakeofIniwashiroisnotfaroff。Theplainisrichandfertile。Inthedistancethesteeproofsofitsvillages,withtheirgroves,lookverypicturesque。Asusualnotafenceorgateistobeseen,oranyotherhedgethanthetalloneusedasascreenforthedwellingsofthericherfarmers。