AFantasticJumble——The“Quiver“ofPoverty——TheWater-shed——FromBadtoWorse——TheRicePlanter’sHoliday——ADiseasedCrowd——AmateurDoctoring——WantofCleanliness——RapidEating——PrematureOldAge。
AfterthehardtravellingofsixdaystherestofSundayinaquietplaceatahighelevationistrulydelightful！Mountainsandpasses，valleysandriceswamps，forestsandriceswamps，villagesandriceswamps；poverty，industry，dirt，ruinoustemples，prostrateBuddhas，stringsofstraw-shodpack-horses；long，grey，featurelessstreets，andquiet，staringcrowds，arealljumbledupfantasticallyinmymemory。FineweatheraccompaniedmethroughbeautifulsceneryfromIkaritoYokokawa，whereIatemylunchinthestreettoavoidtheinnumerablefleasofthetea-house，withacircleroundmeofnearlyalltheinhabitants。Atfirstthechildren，botholdandyoung，weresofrightenedthattheyranaway，butbydegreestheytimidlycameback，clingingtotheskirtsoftheirparentsskirts，inthiscase，beingametaphoricalexpression，runningawayagainasoftenasIlookedatthem。Thecrowdwasfilthyandsqualidbeyonddescription。Whyshouldthe“quiver“ofpovertybesoveryfull？oneasksasonelooksattheswarmsofgentle，naked，old-fashionedchildren，borntoaheritageofhardtoil，tobe，liketheirparents，devouredbyvermin，andpressedhardfortaxes。Ahorsekickedoffmysaddlebeforeitwasgirthed，thecrowdscatteredrightandleft，andwork，whichhadbeensuspendedfortwohourstostareattheforeigner，beganagain。
Alongascenttookustothetopofapass2500feetinheight，aprojectingspurnot30feetwide，withagrandviewofmountainsandravines，andamazeofinvolvedstreams，whichuniteinavigoroustorrent，whosecoursewefollowedforsomehours，tillitexpandedintoaquietriver，lounginglazilythroughariceswampofconsiderableextent。Themapisblankinthisregion，butI
judged，asIafterwardsfoundrightly，thatatthatpasswehadcrossedthewater-shed，andthatthestreamsthenceforwardnolongerfallintothePacific，butintotheSeaofJapan。AtItosawathehorsesproducedstumbledsointolerablythatIwalkedthelaststage，andreachedKayashima，amiserablevillageoffifty-sevenhouses，soexhaustedthatIcouldnotgofarther，andwasobligedtoputupwithworseaccommodationeventhanatFujihara，withlessstrengthforitshardships。
Theyadoyawassimplyawful。Thedaidokorohadalargewoodfireburninginatrench，fillingthewholeplacewithstingingsmoke，fromwhichmyroom，whichwasmerelyscreenedoffbysomedilapidatedshoji，wasnotexempt。Therafterswereblackandshinywithsootandmoisture。Thehouse-master，whokneltpersistentlyonthefloorofmyroomtillhewasdislodgedbyIto，apologisedforthedirtofhishouse，aswellhemight。Stifling，dark，andsmoky，asmyroomwas，Ihadtoclosethepaperwindows，owingtothecrowdwhichassembledinthestreet。Therewasneitherricenorsoy，andIto，whovalueshisowncomfort，begantospeaktothehouse-masterandservantsloudlyandroughly，andtothrowmythingsabout——astyleofactingwhichIpromptlyterminated，fornothingcouldbemorehurtfultoaforeigner，ormoreunkindtothepeople，thanforaservanttoberudeandbullying；andthemanwasmostpolite，andneverapproachedmebutonbendedknees。WhenIgavehimmypassport，asthecustomis，hetouchedhisforeheadwithit，andthentouchedtheearthwithhisforehead。