AttheEnglishcathedraltheeffectisdeepenedbytheepitaphsofthosewhoseliveswerepassedinthejointserviceofEnglandandherloyalchild；andourtravellers，whatevertheirwantofsympathywiththesentiment，hadtoowntoacertainbeautyinthatattitudeofproudreverence。Here，atleast，wasapeoplenotcutofffromitspast，butholding，unbrokeninlifeanddeath，thetieswhichexistforusonlyinhistory。Itgaveaglamourofoldentimetothenewland；ittouchedtheprosaicdemocraticpresentwiththewaningpoeticlightofthearistocraticandmonarchicaltradition。Therewashereandthereatitleonthetablets，andtherewaseverywheretheformallanguageofloyaltyandofvenerationforthingswehavetumbledintothedust。Itisabeautifulchurch，ofadmirableEnglishGothic；ifyouaresohappy，youarerathercurtlytoldyoumayenterbyaburlyEnglishfigureinsomekindofsombreecclesiasticaldrapery，andwithinitsquietprecinctsyoumayfeelyourselfinEnglandifyoulike，——which，formypart，Idonot。
NeitherdidourfriendsenjoyitsomuchastheChurchoftheJesuits，withitsmorethantolerablepainting，itscoldlyfrescoedceiling，itsarchitecturaltasteofsubduedRenaissance，anditsblack-eyedpeasant-
girltellingherbeadsbeforeasidealtar，justasintheenviablydeplorablecountrieswealllove；norsomuchevenastheIrishcathedralwhichtheynextvisited。Thatisaverygorgeouscathedralindeed，paintedandgilded’amerveille’，andeverywherestuckaboutwithbigandlittlesaintsandcrucifixes，andpicturesincrediblybad——butforthoseintheFrenchcathedral。Thereis，ofcourse，aseriesrepresentingChrist’sprogresstoCalvary；andtherewasaverytatteredoldman，——
anoldmanwhosevoicehadbeenlongagodrownedinwhiskey，andwhonowspokeinaghostlywhisper，——who，whenhesawBasil’seyefallupontheseries，madehimgotheroundofthem，andtediouslyexplainedthem。
“Whydidyouletthatoldwretchboreyou，andthenpayhimforit？“