Thetwonorthernoneswereimpracticable，owingtoasuccessionofwaterfallswhichdescendedfromthejaggedsummitofthehighestmountain；theothertoallappearancewasequallyinaccessible，butwemanagedtoascenditbyamostextraordinaryroad。Thesidesofthevalleywereherenearlyprecipitous，but，asfrequentlyhappenswithstratifiedrocks，smallledgesprojected，whichwerethicklycoveredbywildbananas，lilaceousplants，andotherluxuriantproductionsofthetropics。TheTahitians，byclimbingamongsttheseledges，searchingforfruit，haddiscoveredatrackbywhichthewholeprecipicecouldbescaled。Thefirstascentfromthevalleywasverydangerous；foritwasnecessarytopassasteeplyinclinedfaceofnakedrock，bytheaidofropeswhichwebroughtwithus。Howanypersondiscoveredthatthisformidablespotwastheonlypointwherethesideofthemountainwaspracticable，Icannotimagine。Wethencautiouslywalkedalongoneoftheledgestillwecametooneofthethreestreams。Thisledgeformedaflatspot，abovewhichabeautifulcascade，somehundredfeetinheight，poureddownitswaters，andbeneath，anotherhighcascadefellintothemainstreaminthevalleybelow。Fromthiscoolandshadyrecesswemadeacircuittoavoidtheoverhangingwaterfall。Asbefore，wefollowedlittleprojectingledges，thedangerbeingpartlyconcealedbythethicknessofthevegetation。Inpassingfromoneoftheledgestoanother，therewasaverticalwallofrock。OneoftheTahitians，afineactiveman，placedthetrunkofatreeagainstthis，climbedupit，andthenbytheaidofcrevicesreachedthesummit。Hefixedtheropestoaprojectingpoint，andloweredthemforourdogandluggage，andthenweclamberedupourselves。Beneaththeledgeonwhichthedeadtreewasplaced，theprecipicemusthavebeenfiveorsixhundredfeetdeep；andiftheabysshadnotbeenpartlyconcealedbytheoverhangingfernsandliliesmyheadwouldhaveturnedgiddy，andnothingshouldhaveinducedmetohaveattemptedit。Wecontinuedtoascend，sometimesalongledges，andsometimesalongknife-edgedridges，havingoneachhandprofoundravines。
IntheCordilleraIhaveseenmountainsonafargranderscale，butforabruptness，nothingatallcomparablewiththis。Intheeveningwereachedaflatlittlespotonthebanksofthesamestream，whichwehadcontinuedtofollow，andwhichdescendsinachainofwaterfalls：herewebivouackedforthenight。Oneachsideoftheravinethereweregreatbedsofthemountain-banana，coveredwithripefruit。Manyoftheseplantswerefromtwentytotwenty-fivefeethigh，andfromthreetofourincircumference。
Bytheaidofstripsofbarkforrope，thestemsofbamboosforrafters，andthelargeleafofthebananaforathatch，theTahitiansinafewminutesbuiltusanexcellenthouse；andwithwitheredleavesmadeasoftbed。
Theythenproceededtomakeafire，andcookoureveningmeal。Alightwasprocured，byrubbingabluntpointedstickinagroovemadeinanother，asifwithintentionofdeepeningit，untilbythefrictionthedustbecameignited。ApeculiarlywhiteandverylightwoodtheHibiscustiliareus
isaloneusedforthispurpose：itisthesamewhichservesforpolestocarryanyburden，andforthefloatingout-riggerstotheircanoes。Thefirewasproducedinafewseconds：buttoapersonwhodoesnotunderstandtheart，itrequires，asIfound，thegreatestexertion；butatlast，tomygreatpride，Isucceededinignitingthedust。TheGauchointhePampasusesadifferentmethod：takinganelasticstickabouteighteenincheslong，hepressesoneendonhisbreast，andtheotherpointedendintoaholeinapieceofwood，andthenrapidlyturnsthecurvedpart，likeacarpenter’scentre-bit。TheTahitianshavingmadeasmallfireofsticks，placedascoreofstones，ofaboutthesizeofcricket-balls，ontheburningwood。Inabouttenminutesthestickswereconsumed，andthestoneshot。