November15th——Atdaylight,Tahiti,anislandwhichmustforeverremainclassicaltothevoyagerintheSouthSea,wasinview。Atadistancetheappearancewasnotattractive。Theluxuriantvegetationofthelowerpartcouldnotyetbeseen,andasthecloudsrolledpast,thewildestandmostprecipitouspeaksshowedthemselvestowardsthecentreoftheisland。AssoonasweanchoredinMatavaiBay,weweresurroundedbycanoes。
ThiswasourSunday,buttheMondayofTahiti:ifthecasehadbeenreversed,weshouldnothavereceivedasinglevisit;fortheinjunctionnottolaunchacanoeonthesabbathisrigidlyobeyed。Afterdinnerwelandedtoenjoyallthedelightsproducedbythefirstimpressionsofanewcountry,andthatcountrythecharmingTahiti。Acrowdofmen,women,andchildren,wascollectedonthememorablePointVenus,readytoreceiveuswithlaughing,merryfaces。TheymarshalledustowardsthehouseofMr。Wilson,themissionaryofthedistrict,whometusontheroad,andgaveusaveryfriendlyreception。
Aftersittingaveryshorttimeinhishouse,weseparatedtowalkabout,butreturnedthereintheevening。
Thelandcapableofcultivation,isscarcelyinanypartmorethanafringeoflowalluvialsoil,accumulatedroundthebaseofthemountains,andprotectedfromthewavesoftheseabyacoralreef,whichencirclestheentirelineofcoast。Withinthereefthereisanexpanseofsmoothwater,likethatofalake,wherethecanoesofthenativescanplywithsafetyandwhereshipsanchor。Thelowlandwhichcomesdowntothebeachofcoral-sand,iscoveredbythemostbeautifulproductionsoftheintertropicalregions。Inthemidstofbananas,orange,cocoa-nut,andbread-fruittrees,spotsareclearedwhereyams,sweetpotatoes,andsugar-cane,andpine-applesarecultivated。Eventhebrush-woodisanimportedfruit-tree,namely,theguava,whichfromitsabundancehasbecomeasnoxiousasaweed。InBrazilIhaveoftenadmiredthevariedbeautyofthebananas,palms,andorange-treescontrastedtogether;andherewealsohavethebread-fruit,conspicuousfromitslarge,glossy,anddeeplydigitatedleaf。Itisadmirabletobeholdgrovesofatree,sendingforthitsbrancheswiththevigourofanEnglishoak,loadedwithlargeandmostnutritiousfruit。Howeverseldomtheusefulnessofanobjectcanaccountforthepleasureofbeholdingit,inthecaseofthesebeautifulwoods,theknowledgeoftheirhighproductivenessnodoubtenterslargelyintothefeelingofadmiration。Thelittlewindingpaths,coolfromthesurroundingshade,ledtothescatteredhouses;theownersofwhicheverywheregaveusacheerfulandmosthospitablereception。
Iwaspleasedwithnothingsomuchaswiththeinhabitants。Thereisamildnessintheexpressionoftheircountenanceswhichatoncebanishestheideaofasavage;andintelligencewhichshowsthattheyareadvancingincivilization。Thecommonpeople,whenworking,keeptheupperpartoftheirbodiesquitenaked;anditisthenthattheTahitiansareseentoadvantage。Theyareverytall,broad-shouldered,athletic,andwell-proportioned。