Somepartswereclothedbylowthickets,andotherswiththosesucculentplants,whichluxuriateonlywheresaltabounds。Badasthecountrywas,ostriches,deer,agoutis,andarmadilloes,wereabundant。Myguidetoldme,thattwomonthsbeforehehadamostnarrowescapeofhislife:hewasouthuntingwithtwoothermen,atnogreatdistancefromthispartofthecountry,whentheyweresuddenlymetbyapartyofIndians,whogivingchase,soonovertookandkilledhistwofriends。Hisownhorse’slegswerealsocaughtbythebolas,buthejumpedoff,andwithhisknifecutthemfree:whiledoingthishewasobligedtododgeroundhishorse,andreceivedtwoseverewoundsfromtheirchuzos。Springingonthesaddle,hemanaged,byamostwonderfulexertion,justtokeepaheadofthelongspearsofhispursuers,whofollowedhimtowithinsightofthefort。Fromthattimetherewasanorderthatnooneshouldstrayfarfromthesettlement。
IdidnotknowofthiswhenIstarted,andwassurprisedtoobservehowearnestlymyguidewatchedadeer,whichappearedtohavebeenfrightenedfromadistantquarter。
WefoundtheBeaglehadnotarrived,andconsequentlysetoutonourreturn,butthehorsessoontiring,wewereobligedtobivouacontheplain。
Inthemorningwehadcaughtanarmadillo,whichalthoughamostexcellentdishwhenroastedinitsshell,didnotmakeaverysubstantialbreakfastanddinnerfortwohungrymen。Thegroundattheplacewherewestoppedforthenight,wasincrustedwithalayerofsulphateofsoda,andhence,ofcourse,waswithoutwater。Yetmanyofthesmallerrodentsmanagedtoexistevenhere,andthetucutucowasmakingitsoddlittlegruntbeneathmyhead,duringhalfthenight。Ourhorseswereverypoorones,andinthemorningtheyweresoonexhaustedfromnothavinghadanythingtodrink,sothatwewereobligedtowalk。Aboutnoonthedogskilledakid,whichweroasted。Iatesomeofit,butitmademeintolerablythirsty。Thiswasthemoredistressingastheroad,fromsomerecentrain,wasfulloflittlepuddlesofclearwater,yetnotadropwasdrinkable。Ihadscarcelybeentwentyhourswithoutwater,andonlypartofthetimeunderahotsun,yetthethirstrenderedmeveryweak。Howpeoplesurvivetwoorthreedaysundersuchcircumstances,Icannotimagine:atthesametime,Imustconfessthatmyguidedidnotsufferatall,andwasastonishedthatoneday’sdeprivationshouldbesotroublesometome。
Ihaveseveraltimesalludedtothesurfaceofthegroundbeingincrustedwithsalt。Thisphenomenonisquitedifferentfromthatofthesalinas,andmoreextraordinary。InmanypartsofSouthAmerica,wherevertheclimateismoderatelydry,theseincrustationsoccur;butIhavenowhereseenthemsoabundantasnearBahiaBlanca。Thesalthere,andinotherpartsofPatagonia,consistschieflyofsulphateofsodawithsomecommonsalt。