ThenextdaywerodetothevillageofLasMinas。Thecountrywasrathermorehilly,butotherwisecontinuedthesame;aninhabitantofthePampasnodoubtwouldhaveconsidereditastrulyAlpine。Thecountryissothinlyinhabited,thatduringthewholedaywescarcelymetasingleperson。LasMinasismuchsmallereventhanMaldonado。Itisseatedonalittleplain,andissurroundedbylowrockymountains。Itisoftheusualsymmetricalform,andwithitswhitewashedchurchstandinginthecentre,hadratheraprettyappearance。Theoutskirtinghousesroseoutoftheplainlikeisolatedbeings,withouttheaccompanimentofgardensorcourtyards。Thisisgenerallythecaseinthecountry,andallthehouseshave,inconsequenceanuncomfortableaspect。Atnightwestoppedatapulperia,ordrinking-shop。
DuringtheeveningagreatnumberofGauchoscameintodrinkspiritsandsmokecigars:theirappearanceisverystriking;theyaregenerallytallandhandsome,butwithaproudanddissoluteexpressionofcountenance。
Theyfrequentlyweartheirmoustachesandlongblackhaircurlingdowntheirbacks。Withtheirbrightlycolouredgarments,greatspursclankingabouttheirheels,andknivesstuckasdaggersandoftensousedattheirwaists,theylookaverydifferentraceofmenfromwhatmightbeexpectedfromtheirnameofGauchos,orsimplecountrymen。Theirpolitenessisexcessive;
theyneverdrinktheirspiritswithoutexpectingyoutotasteit;butwhilstmakingtheirexceedinglygracefulbow,theyseemquiteasready,ifoccasionoffered,tocutyourthroat。
Onthethirddaywepursuedratheranirregularcourse,asIwasemployedinexaminingsomebedsofmarble。OnthefineplainsofturfwesawmanyostrichesStruthiorhea。Someoftheflockscontainedasmanyastwentyorthirtybirds。These,whenstandingonanylittleeminence,andseenagainsttheclearsky,presentedaverynobleappearance。Inevermetwithsuchtameostrichesinanyotherpartofthecountry:itwaseasytogallopupwithinashortdistanceofthem;butthen,expandingtheirwings,theymadeallsailrightbeforethewind,andsoonleftthehorseastern。