PartIII。
Ineednotexplainthatsilk^61isoriginallyspunfromthebowelsofacaterpillar,andthatitcomposesthegoldentomb,fromwhenceawormemergesintheformofabutterfly。TillthereignofJustinian,thesilk—wormwhofeedontheleavesofthewhitemulberry—treewereconfinedtoChina;thoseofthepine,theoak,andtheash,werecommonintheforestsbothofAsiaandEurope;butastheireducationismoredifficult,andtheirproducemoreuncertain,theyweregenerallyneglected,exceptinthelittleislandofCeos,nearthecoastofAttica。Athingauzewasprocuredfromtheirwebs,andthisCeanmanufacture,theinventionofawoman,forfemaleuse,waslongadmiredbothintheEastandatRome。WhateversuspicionsmayberaisedbythegarmentsoftheMedesandAssyrians,Virgilisthemostancientwriter,whoexpresslymentionsthesoftwoolwhichwascombedfromthetreesoftheSeresorChinese;^62andthisnaturalerror,lessmarvellousthanthetruth,wasslowlycorrectedbytheknowledgeofavaluableinsect,thefirstartificeroftheluxuryofnations。Thatrareandelegantluxurywascensured,inthereignofTiberius,bythegravestoftheRomans;andPliny,inaffectedthoughforciblelanguage,hascondemnedthethirstofgain,whichexploresthelastconfinesoftheearth,fortheperniciouspurposeofexposingtothepubliceyenakeddraperiesandtransparentmatrons。^63Adresswhichshowedtheturnofthelimbs,andcoloroftheskin,mightgratifyvanity,orprovokedesire;thesilkswhichhadbeencloselywoveninChinaweresometimesunravelledbythePhoenicianwomen,andthepreciousmaterialsweremultipliedbyaloosertexture,andtheintermixtureoflinenthreads。^64TwohundredyearsaftertheageofPliny,theuseofpure,orevenofmixedsilks,wasconfinedtothefemalesex,tilltheopulentcitizensofRomeandtheprovinceswereinsensiblyfamiliarizedwiththeexampleofElagabalus,thefirstwho,bythiseffeminatehabit,hadsulliedthedignityofanemperorandaman。Aureliancomplained,thatapoundofsilkwassoldatRomefortwelveouncesofgold;butthesupplyincreasedwiththedemand,andthepricediminishedwiththesupply。IfaccidentormonopolysometimesraisedthevalueevenabovethestandardofAurelian,themanufacturersofTyreandBerytusweresometimescompelled,bytheoperationofthesamecauses,tocontentthemselveswithaninthpartofthatextravagantrate。^65Alawwasthoughtnecessarytodiscriminatethedressofcomediansfromthatofsenators;andofthesilkexportedfromitsnativecountrythefargreaterpartwasconsumedbythesubjectsofJustinian。Theywerestillmoreintimatelyacquaintedwithashell—fishoftheMediterranean,surnamedthesilk—wormofthesea:thefinewoolorhairbywhichthemother—of—pearlaffixesitselftotherockisnowmanufacturedforcuriosityratherthanuse;andarobeobtainedfromthesamesingularmaterialswasthegiftoftheRomanemperortothesatrapsofArmenia。^66
[Footnote61:InthehistoryofinsectsfarmorewonderfulthanOvid\'sMetamorphosesthesilk—wormholdsaconspicuousplace。
ThebombyxoftheIsleofCeos,asdescribedbyPliny,Hist。
Natur。xi。26,27,withthenotesofthetwolearnedJesuits,HardouinandBrotier,maybeillustratedbyasimilarspeciesinChina,MemoiressurlesChinois,tom。ii。p。575—598;butoursilk—worm,aswellasthewhitemulberry—tree,wereunknowntoTheophrastusandPliny。]