gavehim,thatheprachedasermonaboutmeinthechapel,inwhichhesaidthathehadcastsixofmydivilsoutofme,andshouldcastouttheseventh,whichwasthelast,bythenextSabbath,andthenshouldpresentmetothefolksinthechapelaspureavesselastheblessedMaryherself—andthatIwasdestinedtoaccomplishgreatthings,andtobeamightyinstrumentinthehandsoftheHolyChurch,forthatheintendedtowriteabookaboutme,describingthemiraclehehadperformedincastingthesevendivilsoutofme,whichheshouldgetprintedattheprinting—pressoftheblessedColumba,andshouldsendmethroughallIrelandtosellthecopies,theprofitsofwhichwouldgotowardsthesupportoftheholysocietyforcastingoutunclanespirits,towhichhehimselfbelonged。Well,thepeopleshowedthattheywereplasedbyaloudshout,andwentawaylongingforthenextSundaywhenIwastobepresentedtothemwithoutadivilinme。FivetimesthenextweekdidIgotothepriest’shouse,tobereadto,andbesprinkled,andhaveclothsputuponme,inorderthattheworkofcastingoutthelastdivil,whichitseemswasstrongerthanalltherest,mightbemadesmoothandaisy,andontheSaturdayIcametohavethelastdivilcastout,andfoundhisriverinceinfullcanonicals,seatedinhisaisychair。’Daughter,’saidhewhenhesawme,’theworkisnearlyover。Nowkneeldownbeforeme,andI
willmakethesignofthecrossoveryourforehead,andthenyouwillfeelthelastandstrongestofthedivils,whichhavesolongpossessedye,gooutofyethroughyoureyes,asIexpectyouwillsaytothepeopleassembledinthechapelto—morrow。’SoIputmyselfonmykneesbeforehisreverence,whoaftermutteringsomethingtohimself,eitherinLatinorShannaGailey—IbelieveitwasLatin,said,’Lookmeintheface,daughter!’Well,I
lookedhisreverenceintheface,andthereIsawhisnoselookingsolarge,red,andinvitingthatIcouldnotresistthetemptation,andbeforehisreverencecouldmakethesignofthecross,whichdoubtlesswouldhavedriventhediviloutofme,Imadeaspringatit,andseizingholdofitwithforefingerandthumb,pulledhardatit。Hotandinctiousdiditfeel。Oh,theyellthathisreverencegave!However,Ididnotletgomyhold,butkeptpullingatthenose,tillatlasttoavoidthetorment,hisreverencecametumblingdownuponme,causingmebyhisweighttofallbackuponthefloor。Attheyellwhichhegave,andatthenoiseofthefall,incamerushinghisreverence’shousekeeperandstable—boy,whoseeingusdownonthefloor,hisreverenceuponmeandmyhandholdinghisreverence’snose,forIfeltlothtoletitgo,theyremainedinastonishmentandsuspense。Whenhisreverence,however,beggedthem,fortheVirgin’ssake,toseparatehimfromthedivilofawoman,theyranforward,andhavingwithsomedifficultyfreedhisreverence’snosefrommyhand,theyhelpedhimup。Thefirstthingthathisreverencedid,onbeingplacedonhislegs,wastomakeforahorse—whip,whichstoodinonecorneroftheroom,butIguessinghowhemeanttouseit,sprangupfromthefloor,andbeforehecouldmakeacutatme,ranoutoftheroom,andhastedhome。Thenextday,whenallthepeoplefortwentymilesroundmetinthechapel,intheexpectationofseeingmepresentedtothemapurifiedandholyfemale,andhearingfrommymouththeaccountofthemiraclewhichhisreverencehadperformed,hisreverencemadehisappearanceinthepulpitwithadaleofgouldbater’sleafonhisnose,andfromthepulpithetoldthepeoplehowIhadusedhim,showingthemthegouldbater’sleafonhisfeature,astestimonyofthetruthofhiswords,finishingbysayingthatifatfirstthereweresevendevils,therewerenowseventimessevenwithinme。Well,whenthepeopleheardthestory,andsawhisnosewiththebater’sleafuponit,theyatfirstbegantolaugh,butwhenheappealedtotheirconsciences,andaskedthemifsuchwasfittingtratementforapraist,theysaiditwasnot,andthatifhewouldonlybutcurseme,theywouldsoondohimjusticeuponme。Hisreverencethencursedbybook,bell,andcandle,andthepeople,settingofffromthechapel,cameinacrowdtothehousewhereIlived,towrakevengeanceuponme。Overtakingmysonbytheway,whowascominghomeinastateofintoxication,theybatehimwithinaninchofhislife,andlefthimsenselessontheground,andnodoubtwouldhaveservedmemuchworse,onlyseeingthemcoming,andguessingwhattheycameabout,thoughIwasabitintoxicatedmyself,I
escapedbythebackofthehouseoutintothebog,whereIhidmyselfamidstacopseofhazels。Thepeoplecomingtothehouse,andnotfindingmethere,brokeanddestroyedeverybitoffurniture,andwouldhavepulledthehousedown,orsetfiretoit,hadnotanindividualamongthemcriedoutthatdoingsowouldbeofnouse,forthatthehousedidnotbelongtome,andthatdestroyingitwouldmerelybeaninjurytothenexttenant。Sothepeople,afterbreakingmyfurnitureandill—tratingtwoorthreedumbbeasts,whichhappenednottohavebeenmadeawaywith,wentaway,andinthedeadofnightIreturnedtothehouse,whereI
foundmyson,whohadjustcrawledhomecoveredwitbruises。Wehadn’t,however,ahomelong,fortheagentsofthelandlordcametoseizeforrent,tookalltheycouldfind,andturnedusoutuponthewideworld。Myselfandsonwanderedtogetherforanhourortwo,then,havingaquarrelwitheachother,weparted,hegoingonewayandIanother。SomelittletimeafterIheardthathewastransported。Asformyself,IthoughtImightaswelltakealeafoutofthewoman’sbookwhohadbeentheruinofme。SoIwentaboutbiddingpeoplegivemealmsforthegloryofGod,andthreateningthosewhogavemenothingthatthemassshouldnevercomfortthem。It’sadreadfulcursethat,honey;andIwouldadvisepeopletoavoiditeventhoughtheygiveawayalltheyhave。
Ifyouhavenocomfortinthemass,youwillhavecomfortinnothingelse。Lookatme:Ihavenocomfortinthemass,forassoonasthepriest’sbellrings,Ishoutsandhoorahs,andperformstumblingsbeforetheblessedcorpus,gettingmyselfkickedoutofchapel,andaslittlecomfortasIhaveinthemasshaveIinotherthings,whichshouldbeacomforttome。Ihavetwosonswhooughttobethegreatestcomforttome,butaretheyso?We’llsee—oneistransported,andofcourseisnocomforttomeatall。Theotherisasodger。Isheacomforttome?Notabit。AmonthagowhenIwastravellingthroughtheblacknorth,tumblingandtopplingabout,andthreateningpeoplewithmyprayer,unlesstheygavemealms,awoman,whoknewme,toldmethathewaswithhisregimentatCardiff,hereinWales,whereuponIdeterminedtogoandseehim,andcrossingthewatergotintoEngland,fromwhenceI
walkedtoCardiffaskingalmsoftheEnglishinthecommonEnglishway,andoftheIrish,andyearethefirstIrishIhavemet,inthewayinwhichIaskedthemofyou。ButwhenIgottoCardiffdidIseemyson?Ididnot,forthedaybeforehehadsailedwithhisregimenttoaplacetenthousandmilesaway,soIshallneverseehisfaceagainnorderivecomfortfromhim。Oh,ifthere’snocomfortfromthemassthere’snocomfortfromanythingelse,andhewhohastheevilprayerintheShannaGaileybreatheduponhim,willhavenocomfortfromthemass。Now,honey,yehaveheardthestoryofJohannaColgan,thebedivilledwoman。Givehernowadacentalmsandlethergo!\"
\"Wouldyouconsidersixpenceadecentalms?\"
\"Iwould。Ifyougivemesixpence,Iwillnotsaymyprayeroverye。\"
\"Wouldyougivemeablessing?\"
\"Iwouldnot。Abedivilledwomanhasnoblessingtogive。\"
\"SurelyifyouareabletoaskpeopletogiveyoualmsforthegloryofGod,youareabletogiveablessing。\"
\"Bodderation!areyegoingtogivemesixpence?\"
\"No!here’sashillingforyou!Takeitandgoinpeace。\"
\"There’snopaceforme,\"saidJohannaColgan,takingthemoney。
\"Whatdidthemonstrousfemalesaytome?’Biaidhantaifrionngansholasduitabheanshalach。’(23)Thisismypace—hoorah!
hoorah!\"thengivingtwoorthreegrotesquetopplesshehurriedawayinthedirectionofMerthyrTydvil。
CHAPTERCVI
PenyGlas—SaltoftheEarth—TheQuakers’Yard—TheRhugylgroen。
ASIproceededonmywaythescenerytothesouthonthefarthersideoftheriverbecamesurprisinglybeautiful。Onthatsidenoblemountainsmettheview,greenfieldsandmajesticwoods,thelatterbrownitistrue,fortheirleavesweregone,butnotthelessmajesticforbeingbrown。Hereandtherewerewhitefarm—
houses:oneofthem,whichIwastoldwascalledPenyGlas,wasatrulylovelylittleplace。Itstoodonthesideofagreenhillwithanobleforestaboveit,andputmewonderfullyinmindofthehuntinglodge,whichIforHaelallottedasaretreattoAbGwilymandMorfydd,whentheyfledtohimfromCardigantoavoidtherageoftheBowBach,andwhosecharmingappearancemadehimsaytohislove:—
\"MoreblissforusourfatepropoundsOnTaf’sgreenbanksthanTeivy’sbounds。\"
OnIwandered。Aftersometimethevalleyassumedtheformofanimmensebasin,enormousmountainscomposeditssides。Inthemiddlerosehillsofsomealtitude,butcompletelyovercrownedbythemountainsaround。Thesehillsexhibitedpleasantinclosures,andwerebeautifullydottedwithwhitefarm—houses。DownbelowmeanderedtheTaf,itsreachesshiningwithasilver—likesplendour。Thewholetogetherformedanexquisitepicture,inwhichtherewasmuchsublimity,muchstillquietlife,andnotalittleoffantasticfairyloveliness。
ThesunwashasteningtowardsthewestasIpassedalittlecascadeontheleft,thewatersofwhich,afterrunningundertheroad,tumbleddownagullyintotheriver。ShortlyafterwardsmeetingamanIaskedhimhowfaritwastoCaerfili。
\"WhenyoucometotheQuakers’Yard,whichisalittlewayfurtheron,youwillbesevenmilesfromCaerfili。\"
\"WhatistheQuakers’Yard?\"
\"AplacewherethepeoplecalledQuakersburytheirdead。\"
\"Isthereavillagenearit?
\"Thereis,andthevillageiscalledbythesamename。\"
\"ArethereanyQuakersinit?\"
\"Notone,norintheneighbourhood,buttherearesome,Ibelieve,inCardiff。\"
\"Whydotheyburytheirdeadthere?\"
\"Youshouldaskthem,notme。Iknownothingaboutthem,anddon’twant;theyareabadsetofpeople。\"
\"Didtheyeverdoyouanyharm?\"
\"Can’tsaytheydid。IndeedIneversawoneinthewholeofmylife。\"
\"Thenwhydoyoucallthembad?\"
\"Becauseeverybodysaystheyare。\"
\"Noteverybody。Idon’t;Ihavealwaysfoundthemthesaltoftheearth。\"
\"Thenitissaltthathaslostitssavour。Butperhapsyouareoneofthem?\"
\"No,IbelongtotheChurchofEngland。\"
\"Oh,youdo。Thengood—nighttoyou。IamaMethodist。Ithoughtatfirstthatyouwereoneofourministers,andhadhopedtohearfromyousomethingprofitableandconducivetosalvation,but—\"
\"Well,soyoushall。Neverspeakillofpeopleofwhomyouknownothing。Ifthatisn’tasayingconducivetosalvation,Iknownotwhatis。Goodeveningtoyou。\"
Isoonreachedthevillage。Singularenough,thepeopleoftheveryfirsthouse,atwhichIinquiredabouttheQuakers’Yard,wereentrustedwiththecareofit。Onmyexpressingawishtoseeit,ayoungwomantookdownakey,andsaidthatifIwouldfollowhershewouldshowitme。TheQuakers’burying—placeissituatedonalittlepeninsulaortongueofland,havingabrookonitseasternandnorthernsides,andonitswesterntheTaf。Itisalittleoblongyard,withlowwalls,partlyoverhungwithivy。Theentranceisaporchtothesouth。TheQuakersarenofriendstotombstones,andtheonlyvisibleevidencethatthiswasaplaceofburialwasasingleflag—stone,withahalf—obliteratedinscription,whichwithsomedifficultyIdeciphered,andwasasfollows:—
TotheMemoryofTHOMASEDMUNDS
WhodiedApriltheninth1802aged60years。
AndofMARYEDMUNDS
WhodiedJanuarythefourth1810aged70。
ThebeamsofthedescendingsungildedtheQuakers’burial—groundasItroditsprecincts。Alovelyresting—placelookedthatlittleoblongyardonthepeninsula,bytheconfluenceofthewaters,andquiteinkeepingwiththecharacterofthequietChristianpeoplewhosleepwithinit。TheQuakershaveforsometimepastbeenadecayingsect,buttheyhavedonegoodworkintheirday,andwhentheyareextincttheyarenotdestinedtobesoonforgotten。Soonforgotten!Howshouldasecteverbeforgotten,towhichhavebelongedthreesuchmenasGeorgeFox,WilliamPenn,andJosephGurney?
ShortlyafterIlefttheQuakers’Yardthesunwentdownandtwilightsettledupontheearth。PursuingmycourseIreachedsomewoodlands,andoninquiringofaman,whomIsawstandingatthedoorofacottage,thenameofthedistrict,wastoldthatitwascalledYstradManach—theMonks’Strathorvalley。Thisnameitprobablyacquiredfromhavingbelongedintimesofoldtosomemonkishestablishment。Themoonnowaroseandthenightwasdelightful。AsIwaswanderingalongIheardagainthesamewildnoisewhichIhadheardthenightbefore,ontheothersideofMerthyrTydvil。Thecryoftheowlafaroffinthewoodlands。Ohthatstrangebird!Ohthatstrangecry!TheWelsh,asIhavesaidonaformeroccasion,calltheowlDylluan。AmongstthecowyddsofAbGwilymthereisonetothedylluan。Itisfullofabuseagainstthebird,withwhomthepoetisveryangryforhavingwithitscryfrightenedMorfyddback,whowascomingtothewoodtokeepanassignationwithhim,butnotalittleofthisabuseiswonderfullyexpressiveandtruthful。Hecallstheowlagreythief—thehaunteroftheivybush—thechickoftheoak,ablinkingeyedwitch,greedyofmice,withavisagelikethebaldforeheadofabigram,orthedirtyfaceofanoldabbess,whichbearsnolittleresemblancetothechineofanape。Ofitscryhesaysthatitisasgreatatormentasanagonizingrecollection,acoldshrilllaughfromthemidstofakettleofice;therattlingofsea—
pebblesinanoldsheep—skin,onwhichaccountmanycalltheowlthehagoftheRhugylgroen。TheRhugylgroen,itwillbeaswelltoobserve,isadrysheepskincontaininganumberofpebbles,andisusedasarattleforfrighteningcrows。Thelikeningthevisageoftheowltothedirtyfaceofanoldabbessiscapital,andthelikeningthecrytothenoiseoftherhugylgroenisanythingbutunfortunate。For,afterall,whatdoesthevoiceoftheowlsomuchresembleasadiabolicalrattle。I’msureIdon’tknow。
Reader,doyou?
IreachedCaerfiliataboutseveno’clock,andwenttothe\"Boar’sHead,\"neartheruinsofastupendouscastle,onwhichthebeamsofthemoonwerefalling。
CHAPTERCVII
CaerfiliCastle—SirCharles—TheWaiter—Inkerman。
ISLEPTwellduringthenight。InthemorningafterbreakfastI
wenttoseethecastle,overwhichIwasconductedbyawomanwhowasintrustedwithitscare。Itstandsontheeasternsideofthelittletown,andisatrulyenormousstructure,whichbroughttomyrecollectionasayingofourgreatJohnson,tobefoundintheaccountofhisjourneytotheWesternIslands,namely\"thatforallthecastleswhichhehadseenbeyondtheTweedtheruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWaleswouldfindmaterials。\"TheoriginalfounderwasoneJohnDeBryse,apowerfulNormanwhomarriedthedaughterofLlewellynApJorwerth,theson—in—lawofKingJohn,andthemostwar—likeofalltheWelshprinces,whoseexploits,andparticularlyavictorywhichheobtainedoverhisfather—in—law,withwhomhewasalwaysatwar,havebeenimmortalizedbythegreatwar—bard,DafyddBenfras。ItwasoneofthestrongholdswhichbelongedtotheSpencers,andservedforashorttimeasaretreattotheunfortunateEdwardtheSecond。ItwasruinedbyCromwell,thegrandfoeofthebaronialcastlesofBritain,butnotinsothoroughandsweepingamannerastoleaveitamereheapofstones。Thereisanobleentranceporchfrontingthewest—aspaciouscourtyard,agrandbanquetingroom,acorridorofvastlength,severalloftytowers,achapel,asally—
port,aguard—roomandastrangeundergroundvaultedplacecalledthemint,inwhichCaerfili’sbaronsoncecoinedmoney,andinwhichthefurnacesstillexistwhichwereusedformeltingmetal。
ThenameCaerfiliissaidtosignifytheCastleofHaste,andtohavebeenbestowedonthepilebecauseitwasbuiltinahurry。
Caerfili,however,wasneverbuiltinahurry,astheremainsshow。
Moreover,theWelshwordforhasteisnotfilbutffrwst。Filmeansascuddingordartingthroughtheair,whichcanhavenothingtodowiththebuildingofacastle。CaerfilisignifiesPhilip’sCity,andwascalledsoafteronePhilipasaint。ItnomoremeansthecastleofhastethanTintagelinCornwallsignifiesthecastleofguile,asthelearnedhavesaiditdoes,forTintagelsimplymeansthehouseinthegillofthehill,atermadmirablydescriptiveofthesituationofthebuilding。
IstartedfromCaerfiliatelevenforNewport,distantaboutseventeenmiles。Passingthroughatoll—gateIascendedanacclivity,fromthetopofwhichIobtainedafullviewofthecastle,lookingstern,darkandmajestic。DescendingthehillI
cametoabridgeoverarivercalledtheRhymniorRumney,muchcelebratedinWelshandEnglishsong—thencetoPentrefBettws,orthevillageofthebead—house,doubtlesssocalledfromitshavingcontainedinoldtimesahouseinwhichpilgrimsmighttelltheirbeads。
Thescenerysoonbecameverybeautiful—itsbeauty,however,wastoacertainextentmarredbyahorridblackobject,ahugecoalwork,thechimneysofwhichwerebelchingforthsmokeofthedensestdescription。\"Whomdoesthatworkbelongto?\"saidItoamannearlyasblackasachimneysweep。
\"Whodoesitbelongto?Why,toSirCharles。\"
\"DoyoumeanSirCharlesMorgan?\"
\"Idon’tknow。IonlyknowthatitbelongstoSirCharles,thekindest—heartedandrichestmaninWalesandinEnglandtoo。\"
PassingsomecottagesIheardagroupofchildrenspeakingEnglish。
Askedanintelligent—lookinggirlifshecouldspeakWelsh。
\"Yes,\"saidshe,\"Icanspeakit,butnotverywell。\"ThereisnotmuchWelshspokenbythechildrenhereabout。Theoldfolksholdmoretoit。
IsawagaintheRhymniriver,andcrosseditbyabridge;theriverherewasfilthyandturbid,owingofcoursetoitshavingreceivedthefouldrainingsoftheneighbouringcoalworks。ShortlyafterwardsIemergedfromthecoomorvalleyoftheRhymni,andentereduponafertileandtolerablyleveldistrict。PassedbyLlanawstandMachen。Thedaywhichhadbeenveryfinenowbecamedarkandgloomy。Suddenly,asIwasdescendingaslope,abrilliantparty,consistingoffouryoungladiesinriding—habits,ayouthfulcavalierandaservantinsplendidlivery—allonnoblehorses,sweptpastmeatfullgallopdownthehill。Almostimmediatelyafterwards,seeingaroad—menderwhowasstandingholdinghiscapinhishand—whichhehadnodoubtjustreverentiallydoffed—IsaidinWelsh:\"Whoarethoseladies?\"
\"MerchedSirCharles—thedaughtersofSirCharles,\"hereplied。
\"Andisthegentlemantheirbrother?\"
\"No!thebrotherisintheCrim—fightingwiththeRoosiaid。I
don’tknowwhoyongentlemanbe。\"
\"WheredoesSirCharleslive?\"
\"DownintheDyfryn,notfarfromBasallaig。\"
\"IfIweretogoandseehim,\"Isaid,\"doyouthinkhewouldgivemeacupofale?\"
\"Idaresayhewould;hehasgivenmeonemanyatime。\"
IsoonreachedBasallaig,apleasantvillagestandinginavalleyandnearlysurroundedbythegrovesofSirCharlesMorgan。Seeingadecentpublic—houseIsaidtomyself,\"IthinkIshallstepinandhavemyalehere,andnotgorunningafterSirCharles,whomperhapsafterallIshouldn’tfindathome。\"SoIwentinandcalledforapintofale。OvermyaleItrifledforabouthalf—an—
hour,thenpayingmygroatIgotupandsetoffforNewport,inthemidstofathickmistwhichhadsuddenlycomeon,andwhichspeedilywettedmenearlytotheskin。
IreachedNewportatabouthalf—pastfour,andputupatalargeandhandsomeinncalledtheKing’sHead。Duringdinnerthewaiter,unasked,relatedtomehishistory。Hewasashortthickfellowofaboutforty,withaverydisturbedandfrightenedexpressionofcountenance。HesaidthathewasanativeofBrummagen,andhadlivedveryhappilyataninnthereaswaiter,butatlengthhadallowedhimselftobespiritedawaytoanestablishmenthighupinWalesamidstthescenery。Thatveryfewvisitorscametotheestablishment,whichwasinaplacesoawfullylonesomethathesoonbecamehipped,andwasmorethanoncehalfinamindtoflinghimselfintoariverwhichranbeforethedoorandmoaneddismally。
Thatatlasthethoughthisbestplanwouldbetodecamp,andaccordinglytookFrenchleaveearlyonemorning。ThataftermanyfrightsandmuchfatiguehehadfoundhimselfatNewport,andtakenserviceattheKing’sHead,butdidnotfeelcomfortable,andwasfrequentlyvisitedatnightbydreadfuldreams。ThatheshouldtakethefirstopportunityofgettingtoBrummagen,thoughhewasafraidthatheshouldnotbeabletogetintohisformerplace,owingtohisungratefulbehaviour。Hethenutteredarathereloquenteulogiumonthebeautiesoftheblackcapital,andwoundupallbysayingthathewouldratherbeabrazier’sdogatBrummagenthanheadwaiteratthebestestablishmentinWales。
AfterdinnerItookupanewspaperandfoundinitanaccountofthebattleofInkerman,whichappearedtohavebeenfoughtonthefifthofNovember,theverydayonwhichIhadascendedPlynlimmon。
Iwassorrytofindthatmycountrymenhadsuffereddreadfully,andwouldhavebeenutterlydestroyedbutfortheopportunearrivaloftheFrench。\"Inmychildhood,\"saidI,\"theRussiansusedtohelpusagainsttheFrench;nowtheFrenchhelpusagainsttheRussians。
WhoknowsbutbeforeIdieImayseetheRussianshelpingtheFrenchagainstus?\"
CHAPTERCVIII
TownofNewport—TheUsk—NoteofRecognition—AnOldAcquaintance—ConnamaraQuean—TheWake—TheWildIrish—TheTrampingLife—BusinessandPrayer—Methodists—GoodCounsel。
NEWPORTisalargetowninMonmouthshire,andhadoncewallsandacastle。ItiscalledinWelshCasNewyddarWysg,ortheNewCastleupontheUsk。ItstandssomemilesbelowCaerlleonarWysg,andwasprobablybuiltwhenthatplace,atonetimeoneofthemostconsiderabletownsinBritain,begantofallintodecay。TheWysgorUskhasitssourceamongsomewildhillsinthesouth—westofBreconshire,and,afterabsorbingseveralsmallerstreams,amongstwhichistheHondu,atthemouthofwhichBreconstands,whichonthataccountiscalledinWelshAberHondu,andtraversingthewholeofMonmouthshire,enterstheBristolChannelnearNewport,towhichplacevesselsofconsiderableburdencanascend。WysgorUskisanancientBritishword,signifyingwater,andisthesameastheIrishworduisgeorwhiskey,forwhiskey,thoughgenerallyservingtodenoteaspirituousliquor,ingreatvogueamongsttheIrish,meanssimplywater。Thepropertermforthespiritisuisquebaugh,literallyacquavitae,butthecompoundbeingabbreviatedbytheEnglish,whohavealwaysbeennotoriousfortheirhabitofclippingwords,oneofthestrongestofspiritsisnowgenerallydenominatedbyawordwhichisproperlyexpressiveofthesimpleelementwater。
MonmouthshireisatpresentconsideredanEnglishcounty,thoughcertainlywithlittlereason,foritnotonlystandsonthewesternsideoftheWye,butthenamesofalmostallitsparishesareWelsh,andmanythousandsofitspopulationstillspeaktheWelshlanguage。ItiscalledinWelshSir,orShire,Fynwy,andtakesitsnamefromthetownMynwyorMonmouth,whichreceivesitsownappellationfromtheriverMynwyorMinno,onwhichitstands。
Thereisariverofmuchthesamename,notinMacedonbutinthePeninsula,namelytheMinho,whichprobablygotitsdenominationfromthatracecognatetotheCumry,theGael,whowerethefirstcolonisersofthePeninsula,andwhosegenericnameyetstaresusinthefaceandsalutesourearsinthewordsGaliciaandPortugal。
IleftNewportataboutteno’clockonthe16th;theroadswereverywet,therehavingbeenadelugeofrainduringthenight。ThemorningwasaregularNovemberone,dullandgloomy。DesirousofknowingwhereaboutsinthesepartstheWelshlanguageceased,I
interrogatedseveralpeoplewhomImet。FirstspoketoEstherWilliams。ShetoldmeshecamefromPennow,somemilesfartheron,thatshecouldspeakWelsh,andthatindeedallthepeoplecouldforatleasteightmilestotheeastofNewport。Thislatterassertionofherswas,however,anythingbutcorroboratedbyayoungwoman,withapitcheronherhead,whomIshortlyafterwardsmet,forsheinformedmethatshecouldspeaknoWelsh,andthatforonewhocouldspeakit,fromwhereIwastotheplacewhereitceasedaltogether,thereweretenwhocouldnot。IbelievetherealfactisthatabouthalfthepeopleforsevenoreightmilestotheeastofNewportspeakWelsh,moreorless,asabouthalfthosewhomImetandaddressedinWelsh,answeredmeinthattongue。