andbeyondtheseIcaughtasightofthemountainonthetopofwhichIhadbeenthenightbefore—onlyapartialone,however,aslargemassesofmistwerestillhangingaboutit。Themorningwasmoistanddripping,andnothingcouldlookmorecheerlessanduncomfortablethantheentirescene。
Iputonmythings,whichwerestillnothalfdry,andwentdownintothelittleparlour,whereIfoundanexcellentfireawaitingme,andatablespreadforbreakfast。Thebreakfastwasdelicious,consistingofexcellenttea,butteredtoast,andGlamorgansausages,whichIreallythinkarenotawhitinferiortothoseofEpping。AfterbreakfastIwentintothekitchen,whichwasnowonlyoccupiedbytwoorthreepeople。Seeingalargebrushonadresser,Itookitup,andwasabouttobrushmynetherhabiliments,whichwereterriblybespatteredwithhalf—driedmire。
Before,however,Icouldbegin,upstartedoneofthemen,awild,shock—headedfellowdressedlikeacarter,inroughbluefriezecoat,yellow,broadcorduroytrowsers,greywoollenstockingsandhighlows,andsnatchingthebrushoutofmyhand,felltobrushingmemostvigorously,puffingandblowingallthetimeinamosttremendousmanner。Ididnotrefusehisservices,butlethimgoon,andtorewardhimasIthought,spokekindlytohim,askinghimvariousquestions。\"Areyouacarter?\"saidI。Noanswer。\"OneofTwmO’rNant’speople?\"Noanswer。\"FamousfellowthatTwmO’rNant,wasn’the?DidyoueverhearhowhegotthegreattreeinatCarmarthenGate?Whatiswoodperfootatpresent?Whomdoyoucartfor?Orareyouyourownmaster?Ifso,howmanyhorsesdoyoukeep?\"
Tonotoneofthesequestions,nortoadozenotherswhichIput,bothinEnglishandWelsh,didmyfriendwiththebrushreturnanyverbalanswer,thoughIcouldoccasionallyhearakindofstifledgiggleproceedingfromhim。Havingatlengththoroughlybrushednotonlymyclothes,butmybootsandmyhat,whichlastarticlehetookfrommyhead,andplaceditonagainverydexterously,afterbrushingit,heputthebrushdownonthedresser,andthenadvancingtomemademeabow,andwavinghisforefingerbackwardsandforwardsbeforemyface,hesaid,withabroadgrin:\"Nicegentleman—willdoanythingforhimbutanswerquestions,andlethimhearmydiscourse。Lovetolistentohispleasantstoriesofforeignlands,ghostsandtylwithteg;butbeforehim,deemitwisetobemum,quitemum。Knowwhathecomesabout。Wantstoheardiscourseofpoorman,thathemaylearnfromitpoorman’slittlewaysandinfirmities,andmarkthemdowninonesmall,littlebooktoserveforfuntoLordPalmerstonandtheothergreatgentlefolksinLondon。Niceman,civilman,Idon’tdeny;andclebbermantoo,forheknowsWelsh,andhasbeeneverywhere—butfox—oldfox—
livesatPlasyCadno。\"(18)
Havingbeeninformedthattherewasaconsiderableironfoundrycloseby,Ithoughtitwouldbeworthmywhiletogoandseeit。I
enteredthepremises,andwasstandingandlookinground,whenamanwiththeappearanceofarespectablemechaniccameupandofferedtoshowmeovertheplace。Igladlyacceptedhisoffer,andheshowedmeallabouttheironfoundry。Isawalargesteam—
engineatfullplay,terriblefurnaces,andimmenseheapsofburning,cracklingcinders,andafierystreamofmoltenmetalrollingalong。Afterseeingwhattherewastobeseen,Iofferedapieceofsilvertomykindconductor,whichheatoncerefused。Onmyaskinghim,however,togototheinnandhaveafriendlyglass,hesmiled,andsaidhehadnoobjection。Sowewenttotheinn,andhadtwofriendlyglassesofwhiskey—and—watertogether,andalsosomediscourse。IaskedhimiftherewereanyEnglishemployedonthepremises。\"None,\"saidhe,\"norIrisheither;weareallWelsh。\"ThoughhewasaWelshman,hisnamewasaverycommonEnglishone。
Afterpayingthereckoning,whichonlyamountedtothreeandsixpence,IdepartedforSwansea,distantaboutthirteenmiles。
GutterVawrconsistsofonestreet,extendingforsomelittlewayalongtheSwansearoad,thefoundry,andanumberofhutsandhousesscatteredhereandthere。Thepopulationiscomposedalmostentirelyofminers,theworkersatthefoundry,andtheirfamilies。
ForthefirsttwoorthreemilesthecountrythroughwhichIpasseddidnotatallprepossessmeinfavourofGlamorganshire:itconsistedoflow,sullen,peatyhills。Subsequently,however,itimprovedrapidly,becomingbold,wild,andpleasantlywooded。Theaspectofthedayimproved,also,withtheappearanceofthecountry。WhenIfirststartedthemorningwaswretchedanddrizzly,butinlessthananhouritclearedupwonderfully,andthesunbegantoflashout。AsIlookedonthebrightluminaryI
thoughtofAbGwilym’sodetothesunandGlamorgan,andwithbreastheavingandwitheyesfulloftears,Ibegantorepeatpartsofit,orratherofatranslationmadeinmyhappyboyishyears:—
\"Eachmorn,benignofcountenance,UponGlamorgan’spennonglance!
EachafternooninbeautyclearAbovemyowndearboundsappear!
Brightoutlineofablessedclime,Again,thoughsunk,arisesublime—
Uponmyerrand,swiftrepair,AnduntogreenGlamorganbearGooddaysandtermsofcourtesyFrommydearcountryandfromme!
Moveround—butneedItheecommand?—
Itschalk—whitehalls,whichcheerfulstand—
Pleasantthyownpavilionstoo—
Itsfieldsandorchardsfairtoview。
\"O,pleasantisthytaskandhighInradiantwarmthtoroamthesky,Tokeepfromillthatkindlyground,Itsmeadsandfarms,wheremeadisfound,Alandwhosecommonslivecontent,Whereeachman’slotisexcellent,Wherehoststohailtheeshallupstand,Whereladsareboldandlassesbland,AlandIoftfromhillthat’shighHavegazeduponwithraptur’deye;
Wheremaidsaretrainedinvirtue’sschool,Whereduteouswivesspindaintywool;
Acountrywitheachgiftsupplied,ConfrontingCornwall’scliffsofpride。\"
CametoLlanguick,ahamletsituatednearatremendousgorge,thesidesofwhichwerecoveredwithwood。ThencetothevillageofTawyBridge,atthebottomofabeautifulvalley,throughwhichrunstheTawy,which,aftertheTaf,isthemostconsiderableriverinGlamorganshire。Continuingmycourse,Ipassedbyanenormousedificewhichstoodonmyrighthand。Ithadhugechimneys,whichwerecastingforthsmoke,andfromwithinIheardthenoiseofasteam—engineandtheroaroffurnaces。
\"Whatplaceisthis?\"said,Itoaboy。
\"Gwaithhaiarn,sir;ymperthyniMrPearson。MrPearson’sironworks,sir。\"
Iproceeded,andinabouthalf—an—hoursawamanwalkingbeforemeinthesamedirectioninwhichIwas。Hewasgoingverybriskly,butIsooncameuptohim。Hewasasmall,well—madefellow,withreddishhairandruddy,determinedcountenance,somewhattanned。
Heworeastrawhat,checkeredshirt,openattheneck,canvastrousersandbluejacket。Onhisfeetwereshoesremarkablythin,butnostockings,andinhishandheheldastoutstick,withwhich,justbeforeIovertookhim,hestruckaroundstonewhichlayontheground,sendingitflyingatleastfiftyyardsbeforehimontheroad,andfollowingitinitsflightwithawildandsomewhatstartlinghalloo。
\"Good—day,myfriend,\"saidI;\"youseemtobeabletouseastick。\"
\"AndsureIoughttobe,yourhonour,seeingashowmyfathertaughtme,whowasthebestfightingmanwithastickthattheShanavestseverhad。ManyistheheadofaCaravautthathehasbrokenwithsomesuchanAlpeenwattleastheoneIamcarryingwithmehere。\"
\"Agoodthing,\"saidI,\"thattherearenoOldWaist—coatsandCravatsatpresent,atleastbloodyfactionsbearingthosenames。\"
\"Yourhonourthinksso!Faith!Iamclaneofacontraryopinion。
IwishtheouldShanavestsandCaravautswerefightingstill,andI
amongthem。Faith!therewassomelifeinIrelandintheirdays。\"
\"Andplentyofdeathtoo,\"saidI。\"HowfortunateitisthattheIrishhavetheEnglishamongthemtopreventtheircuttingeachother’sthroats。\"
\"TheEnglishpreventtheIrishfromcuttingeachother’sthroats!
Well,iftheydo,itisonlythattheymayhavethepleasureofcuttingthemthemselves。Thebloodytyrants!toolonghastheirfootbeenupontheneckofpooroldIreland。\"
\"HowdotheEnglishtyranniseoverIreland?\"
\"Howdotheytyranniseoverher?Don’ttheypreventherfromhavingthefreeexerciseofherCatholicreligion,andmakeherhelptosupporttheirownProtestantone?\"
\"Well,anddon’ttheRomanCatholicspreventtheProtestantsfromhavingthefreeexerciseoftheirreligion,whenevertheyhappentobethemostnumerous,anddon’ttheymakethemhelptosupporttheRomanCatholicreligion?\"
\"Ofcoursetheydo,andquiteright!HadImywill,thereshouldn’tbeaplaceofProtestantworshipleftstanding,oraProtestantchurlallowedtogoaboutwithaheadunbroken。\"
\"ThenwhydoyoublametheProtestantsforkeepingtheRomansalittleunder?\"
\"WhydoIblamethem?Apurtyquestion!Why,an’ttheywrong,andan’tweright?\"
\"Buttheysaythattheyarerightandyouwrong。\"
\"Theysay!whomindswhattheysay?Haven’twethewordoftheblessedPopethatweareright?\"
\"AndtheysaythattheyhavethewordoftheblessedGospelthatyouarewrong。\"
\"TheGospel!whocaresfortheGospel?SurelyyouarenotgoingtocomparetheGospelwiththePope?\"
\"Well,theycertainlyarenottobenamedinthesameday。\"
\"Theyarenot?Thengoodlucktoyou!Wearebothofthesameopinion。Ah,IthoughtyourhonourwasaraleCatholic。Now,tellmefromwhatkingdomofIrelanddoesyourhonourhail?\"
\"Why,IwaspartlyeducatedinMunster。\"
\"InMunster!Hoorah!Here’sthehandofacountrymantoyourhonour。Ah,itwasasytobeseenfromthelearning,whichyourhonourshows,thatyourhonourisfromMunster。There’snospotinIrelandlikeMunsterforlearning。Whatsaystheoldsong?
\"’Ulsterforasoldier,Connaughtforathief,Munsterforlearning,AndLeinsterforbeef。’
\"HoorahforlearnedMunster!anddownwithbeggarly,thievishConnaught!IwouldthataConnaughtmanwouldcomeathwartmenow,thatImightbreakhisthief’sheadwithmyAlpeen。\"
\"Youdon’tseemtoliketheConnaughtmen,\"saidI。
\"Likethem!whocanlikethem?aparcelofbeggarlythievishblackguards。SoyourhonourwasedicatedinMunster—Imanepartlyedicated。Isupposebyyoursayingthatyouwerepartlyedicated,thatyourhonourwasintendedfortheclericalprofession,butbeingoverfondofthedropwasforcedtolavecollegebeforeyouredicationwasquitecompleted,andsoforwantofabetterprofessiontookupwiththatofmerchandise。Ah,theloveofthedropatcollegehaspreventedmanyacleveryoungfellowfromtakingholyorders。Well,it’sapitybutitcan’tbehelped。Iamfondofadropmyself,andwhenwegetto—shallbehappytoofferyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。IhopeyourhonourandIshallsplicethemainbracetogetherbeforewepart。\"
\"Isuppose,\"saidI,\"byyourtalkingofsplicingthemainbracethatyouareasailor。\"
\"Iam,yourhonour,andhailfromtheCoveofCorkinthekingdomofMunster。\"
\"Iknowitwell,\"saidI,\"itisthebestsea—basinintheworld。
Well,howcameyouintotheseparts?\"
\"I’lltellyourhonour;myshipisatSwansea,andhavingarelationworkingatthefoundrybehindusIcametoseehim。\"
\"Areyouintheroyalservice?\"
\"Iamnot,yourhonour;Iwasonceintheroyalservice,buthavingadisputewiththeboatswainatSpithead,Igavehimawipe,jumpedoverboardandswamashore。AfterthatIsailedforCuba,gotintothemerchants’servicethere,andmadeseveralvoyagestotheBlackCoast。AtpresentIamintheserviceofthemerchantsofCork。\"
\"Iwonderthatyouarenotnowintheroyalservice,\"saidI,\"sinceyouaresofondoffighting。ThereishotworkgoingonatpresentuptheBlackSea,andbravemen,especiallyIrishmen,areingreatrequest。\"
\"Yes,braveIrishmenarealwaysingreatrequestwithEnglandwhenshehasabattletofight。Atothertimestheyarelefttolieinthemudwiththechainroundtheirnecks。IthasbeensoeversincethetimeofDeCourcy,andIsupposealwayswillbeso,unlessIrishmenallbecomeofmymind,whichisnotlikely。WeretheIrishallofmymind,theEnglishwouldfindnoIrishchampiontofighttheirbattleswhentheFrenchortheRussianscometobeardthem。\"
\"ByDeCourcy,\"saidI,\"youmeanthemanwhomtheKingofEnglandconfinedintheTowerofLondonaftertakingfromhimhisbaronyinthecountyofCork。\"
\"Ofcourse,yourhonour,andwhomhekeptintheTowertilltheKingofFrancesentoverachampiontoinsultandbeardhim,whenthekingwasgladtotakeDeCourcyoutofthedungeontofighttheFrenchchampion,fordivilaoneofhisownEnglishfightingmendaredtaketheFrenchmaninhand。\"
\"AfinefellowthatDeCourcy,\"saidI。
\"Rathertoofondofthedropthough,likeyourhonourandmyself,forafterhehadcausedtheFrenchchampiontofleebackintoFrancehelostthegreaterpartoftherewardwhichtheKingofEnglandpromisedhim,solelybymakingtoofreewiththestrongdrink。Doesyourhonourrememberthatpartofthestory?\"
\"IthinkIdo,\"saidI,\"butIshouldbeverygladtohearyourelateit。\"
\"Thenyourhonourshall。RightgladwastheKingofEnglandwhentheFrenchchampionfledbacktoFrance,fornosoonerdidthedirtyspalpeenhearthattheyweregoingtobringDeCourcyagainsthim,thefameofwhosestrengthandcouragefilledthewholeworld,thanhebetookhimselfbacktohisowncountry,andwasneverheardofmore。Rightglad,Isay,wastheKingofEngland,andgaveleavetoDeCourcytoreturntoIreland。’Andyoushallhave,’
saidhe,’ofthebaronywhichItookfromyouallthatyoucanrideroundonthefirstdayofyourreturn。’SoDeCourcybetookhimselftoIrelandandtohisbarony,buthewasanythingbutaluckyman,thisDeCourcy,forhisfriendsandrelationsandtenantry,hearingofhiscoming,preparedagrandfestivalforhim,withallkindsofilligantviandsandpowerfulliquors,andwhenhearrivedthereitwaswaitingforhim,anddowntoithesat,andate,anddrank,andforjoyofseeinghimselfoncemoreamongsthisfriendsandtenantryinthehallofhisforefathers,andforloveofthedrop,whichhealwayshad,hedrankofthepowerfulliquorsmorethanheought,andtheupshotwasthathebecamedrunk,agusdobhianduinemaithsinmisgeadhdoceatheroglog;thegoodgentlemanwasdrunktillfouro’clock,andwhenheawokehefoundthathehadbuttwohoursofdayremainingtowinbackhisbravebarony。However,hedidnotloseheart,butmountedhishorseandsetoffridingasfastasamanjustpartlyrecoveredfromintoxicationcouldbeexpectedtodo,andhecontrivedtorideroundfourparishes,andonlyfour,andthesefourparisheswereallthatherecoveredofhisbravebarony,andallthathehadtoliveupontillhisdyingday,andallthathehadtoleavetohisdescendants,sothatDeCourcycouldscarcelybecalledaveryluckyman,afterall。\"
ShortlyaftermyfriendthesailorhadconcludedhisaccountofDeCourcy,wearrivedinthevicinityofasmalltownorratherconsiderablevillage。Itstoodontheright—handsideoftheroad,frontingtheeast,havingahighromantichillbehinditonthesidesofwhichwerewoods,groves,andpleasant—lookingwhitehouses。
\"Whatplaceisthis?\"saidItomycompanion。
\"Thisis—,yourhonour;andhere,ifyourhonourwillacceptaglassofwhiskeywewillsplicethemainbracetogether。\"
\"Thankyou,\"saidI;\"butIaminhastetogettoSwansea。
Moreover,ifIamoverfondofthedrop,asyousayIam,thesoonerIbegintopractiseabstinencethebetter。\"
\"Verytrue,yourhonour!Well,atanyrate,whenyourhonourgetstoSwansea,youwillnotbeabletosaythatPatFlannaganwalkedformileswithyourhonouralongtheroad,withoutofferingyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。\"
\"NorshallPatFlannaganbeabletosaythesamethingofmyhonour。IhaveashillinginmypocketatPatFlannagan’sservice,ifhechoosestosplicewithitthemainbraceforhimselfandforme。\"
\"Thankyourhonour;butIhaveashillinginmyownpocket,andadollartoo,andafive—poundnotebesides;soIneedn’tbebeholdenfordrinkmoneytoanybodyunderthesun。\"
\"Wellthen,farewell!Here’smyhand!—SlanleataPhatraicuiFlannagan!\"
\"Slanleatadhuine—uasail!\"saidPatrick,givingmehishand;\"andhealth,hope,andhappinesstoye。\"
Thereuponheturnedasideto—,andIcontinuedmywaytoSwansea。
ArrivedataplacecalledGlandwr,abouttwomilesfromSwansea,I
foundthatIwassplashedfromtoptotoe,fortheroadswerefrightfullymiry,andwassorrytoperceivethatmybootshadgivenwayatthesoles,largepiecesofwhichwerestickingout。Imust,however,dothepoorthingsthejusticetosay,thatitwasnowonderthattheywereinthisdilapidatedcondition,forinthosebootsIhadwalkedatleasttwohundredmiles,overallkindsofpaths,sinceIhadgotthemsoledatLlangollen。\"Well,\"saidItomyself,\"itwon’tdotoshowmyselfatSwanseainthiscondition,moreespeciallyasIshallgotothebesthotel;Imusttryandgetmyselfmadealittledecenthere。\"Seeingalittleinn,onmyright,Ienteredit,andaddressingmyselftoaneatcomfortablelandlady,whowasstandingwithinthebar,Isaid:—
\"Pleasetoletmehaveaglassofale!—andhearkee;asIhavebeenwalkingalongtheroad,Ishouldbegladoftheservicesofthe’boots。’\"
\"Verygood,sir,\"saidthelandladywithacurtsey。
Thenshowingmeintoanicelittlesandedparlour,shebroughtmetheglassofale,andpresentlysentinaladwithaboot—jacktoministertome。Oh,whatcan’talittlemoneyeffect?Forsixpenceinthatsmallniceinn,Ihadaglassofale,mybootscleaned,andtheexcrescencescutoff,myclotheswipedwithadwile,andthenpassedoverwithabrush,andwasmyselfthankedoverandoveragain。Startingagainwithallthespiritedconfidenceofonewhohasjustcastoffhisslough,IsoonfoundmyselfinthesuburbsofSwansea。AsIpassedunderwhatappearedtobearailroadbridgeIinquiredinWelshofanancient—lookingman,incoalyhabiliments,ifitwasone。Heansweredinthesamelanguagethatitwas,theninstantlyaddedinEnglish:—
\"YouhavetakenyourlastfarewellofWales,sir;it’snousespeakingWelshfartheron。\"
Ipassedsomeimmenseedifices,probablymanufactories,andwassoonconvincedthat,whetherIwasinWalesornot,IwasnolongeramongstWelsh。ThepeoplewhomImetdidnotlooklikeWelsh。
TheyweretallerandbulkierthantheCambrians,andwerespeakingadissonantEnglishjargon。ThewomenhadmuchtheappearanceofDutchfisherwomen;someofthemwerecarryinghugeloadsontheirheads。IspokeinWelshtotwoorthreewhomIovertook。
\"NoWelsh,sir!\"
\"Whydon’tyouspeakWelsh?\"saidI。
\"Becauseweneverlearntit。WearenotWelsh。\"
\"Whoareyouthen?\"
\"English;somecallsusFlamings。\"
\"Ah,ah!\"saidItomyself;\"Ihadforgot。\"
PresentlyIenteredthetown,alarge,bustling,dirty,gloomyplace,andinquiringforthefirsthotel,wasdirectedtothe\"MackworthArms,\"inWineStreet。
AssoonasIwasshownintotheparlourIsummonedthe\"boots,\"andonhismakinghisappearanceIsaidinasternvoice:\"Mybootswantsoling;letthembedonebyto—morrowmorning。\"
\"Can’tbe,sir;it’snowSaturdayafternoon,theshoemakercouldn’tbeginthemto—night!\"
\"Butyoumustmakehim!\"saidI;\"andlookhere,Ishallgivehimashillingextra,andyouanextrashillingforseeingafterhim。\"
\"Yes,sir;I’llseeafterhim—theyshallbedone,sir。Bringyouyourslippersinstantly。GladtoseeyouagaininSwansea,sir,lookingsowell。\"
CHAPTERCI
Swansea—TheFlemings—TowardsEngland。
SWANSEAiscalledbytheWelshAbertawe,whichsignifiesthemouthoftheTawy。Aber,asIhavemorethanoncehadoccasiontoobserve,signifiestheplacewhereariverentersintotheseaorjoinsanother。ItisaGaelicaswellasaCumricword,beingfoundintheGaelicnamesAberdeenandLochaber,andthereisgoodreasonforsupposingthatthewordharbourisderivedfromit。
SwanseaorSwanseyisacompoundwordofScandinavianorigin,whichmaymeaneitherariveraboundingwithswans,ortheriverofSwanr,thenameofsomenorthernadventurerwhosettleddownatitsmouth。ThefinaleaoreyistheNorwegianaa,whichsignifiesarunningwater;itisoffrequentoccurrenceinthenamesofriversinNorway,andisoftenfound,similarlymodified,inthoseofothercountrieswheretheadventurousNorwegiansformedsettlements。
Swanseafirstbecameaplaceofsomeimportanceshortlyafterthebeginningofthetwelfthcentury。Intheyear1108,thegreaterpartofFlandershavingbeensubmergedbythesea(19)animmensenumberofFlemingscameovertoEngland,andentreatedofHenrytheFirstthekingthenoccupyingthethrone,thathewouldallallottothemlandsinwhichtheymightsettle,ThekingsentthemtovariouspartsofWales,whichhadbeenconqueredbyhisbaronsorthoseofhispredecessors:aconsiderablenumberoccupiedSwanseaandtheneighbourhood;butfarthegreaterpartwenttoDyfed,generallybutimproperlycalledPembroke,thesouth—easternpartofwhich,byfarthemostfertile,theyentirelytookpossessionof,leavingtotheWelshtherest,whichisverymountainousandbarren。
IhavealreadysaidthatthepeopleofSwanseastandoutinbroaddistinctnessfromtheCumry,differingfromtheminstature,language,dress,andmanners,andwishedtoobservethatthesamethingmaybesaidoftheinhabitantsofeverypartofWaleswhichtheFlemingscolonisedinanyconsiderablenumbers。
Ifoundtheaccommodationverygoodatthe\"MackworthArms\";I
passedtheSaturdayeveningveryagreeably,andsleptwellthroughoutthenight。ThenextmorningtomygreatjoyIfoundmyboots,capitallyrepaired,awaitingmebeforemychamberdoor。Ohthemightyeffectofalittlemoney!AfterbreakfastIputthemon,andasitwasSundaywentoutinordertogotochurch。Thestreetswerethrongedwithpeople;anewmayorhadjustbeenelected,andhisworship,attendedbyanumberofhalbertandjavelinmen,wasgoingtochurchtoo。Ifollowedtheprocession,whichmovedwithgreatdignityandofcourseveryslowly。Thechurchhadahighsquaretower,andlookedaveryfineedificeontheoutside,andnolesssowithin,forthenavewasloftywithnoblepillarsoneachside。Istoodduringthewholeoftheserviceasdidmanyothers,forthecongregationwassogreatthatitwasimpossibletoaccommodateallwithseats。Theritualwasperformedinaverysatisfactorymanner,andwasfollowedbyanexcellentsermon。Iamashamedtosaythathaveforgotthetext,butIrememberagooddealofthediscourse。ThepreachersaidamongstotherthingthattheGospelwasnotpreachedinvain,andthatheverymuchdoubtedwhetherasermonwaseverdeliveredwhichdidnotdosomegood。OntheconclusionoftheserviceIstrolledaboutinordertoseethetownandwhatpertainedtoit。Thetownisofconsiderablesize,withsomeremarkableedifices,spaciousandconvenientquays,andacommodiousharbourintowhichtheriverTawyflowingfromthenorthemptiesitself。ThetownandharbourareoverhungonthesideoftheeastbyaloftygreenmountainwithaWelshname,nodoubtexceedinglyappropriate,butwhichIregrettosayhasescapedmymemory。
AfterhavingseenallthatIwished,Ireturnedtomyinnanddischargedallmyobligations。Ithendeparted,framingmycourseeastwardtowardsEngland,havingtraversedWalesnearlyfromnorthtosouth。
CHAPTERCII
LeaveSwansea—ThePandemonium—NeathAbbey—VariedScenery。
ITwasabouttwoo’clockofadullandgloomyafternoonwhenI
startedfromAbertawyorSwansea,intendingtostopatNeath,someeightmilesdistant。AsIpassedagainthroughthesuburbsIwasstruckwiththeirlengthandtheevidencesofenterprisewhichtheyexhibited—enterprise,however,evidentlychieflyconnectedwithironandcoal,foralmosteveryobjectlookedawfullygrimy。
CrossingabridgeIproceededtotheeastupabroadandspaciousvalley,theeasternsideofwhichwasformedbyrusset—colouredhills,throughavistaofwhichIcoulddescryarangeoftallbluemountains。AsIproceededIsometimespassedpleasantgrovesandhedgerows,sometimeshugeworks;inthisvalleytherewasasingularmixtureofnatureandart,ofthevoicesofbirdsandtheclankingofchains,ofthemistsofheavenandthesmokeoffurnaces。
IreachedLlan—,asmallvillagehalf—waybetweenSwanseaandNeath,andwithoutstoppingcontinuedmycourse,walkingveryfast。
Ihadsurmountedahill,andhadnearlydescendedthatsideofitwhichlookedtowardstheeast,havingonmyleft,thatistothenorth,awoodedheight,whenanextraordinaryscenepresenteditselftomyeyes。Somewhattothesouthroseimmensestacksofchimneyssurroundedbygrimydiabolical—lookingbuildings,intheneighbourhoodofwhichwerehugeheapsofcindersandblackrubbish。Fromthechimneys,notwithstandingitwasSunday,smokewasproceedinginvolumes,chokingtheatmosphereallaround。Fromthispandemonium,atthedistanceofaboutaquarterofamiletothesouth—west,uponagreenmeadow,stood,lookingdarklygrey,aruinofvastsizewithwindowholes,towers,spires,andarches。
Betweenitandtheaccursedpandemonium,layahorridfilthyplace,partofwhichwasswampandpartpool:thepoolblackassoot,andtheswampofadisgustingleadencolour。Acrossthisplaceoffilthstretchedatramwayleadingseeminglyfromtheabominablemansionstotheruin。SostrangeasceneIhadneverbeheldinnature。Haditbeenoncanvas,withtheadditionofanumberofDiabolicalfigures,proceedingalongthetramway,itmighthavestoodforSabbathinHell—devilsproceedingtoafternoonworship,andwouldhaveformedapictureworthyofthepowerfulbutinsanepainter,JeromeBos。
AfterstandingforaconsiderabletimestaringatthestrangespectacleIproceeded。Presentlymeetingalad,Iaskedhimwhatwasthenameoftheruin。
\"TheAbbey,\"hereplied。
\"NeathAbbey?\"saidI。
\"Yes!\"