第41章
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  \"Thatbrook,\"saidtheguide,\"istheyoungSevern。\"Thebrookcamefromroundthesideofaveryloftyrock,singularlyvariegated,blackandwhite,thenorthernsummitpresentingsomethingoftheappearanceoftheheadofahorse。Passingroundthiscragwecametoafountainsurroundedwithrushes,outofwhichthebrook,nowexceedinglysmall,camemurmuring。

  \"Thecragabove,\"saidmyguide,\"iscalledCragyCefyl,ortheRockoftheHorse,andthisspringatitsfootisgenerallycalledtheffynnonoftheHafren。However,drinknotofit,master;fortheffynnonoftheHafrenishigherupthenant。Followme,andI

  willpresentlyshowyoutherealffynnonoftheHafren。\"

  Ifollowedhimupanarrowandverysteepdingle。Presentlywecametosomebeautifullittlepoolsofwaterintheturf,whichwashereremarkablygreen。

  \"Theseareveryprettypools,an’tthey,master?\"saidmycompanion。\"Now,ifIwasafalseguideImightbidyoustoopanddrink,sayingthatthesewerethesourcesoftheSevern;butIamatruecyfarwydd,andthereforetellyounottodrink,forthesepoolsarenotthesourcesoftheHafren,nomorethanthespringbelow。TheffynnonoftheSevernishigherupthenant。Don’tfret,however,butfollowme,andweshallbethereinaminute。\"

  SoIdidashebademe,followinghimwithoutfrettinghigherupthenant。Justatthetophehaltedandsaid:\"Now,master,I

  haveconductedyoutothesourceoftheSevern。Ihaveconsideredthematterdeeply,andhavecometotheconclusionthathere,andhereonly,isthetruesource。Thereforestoopdownanddrink,infullconfidencethatyouaretakingpossessionoftheHolySevern。\"

  ThesourceoftheSevernisalittlepoolofwatersometwentyincheslong,sixwide,andaboutthreedeep。Itiscoveredatthebottomwithsmallstones,frombetweenwhichthewatergushesup。

  Itisontheleft—handsideofthenant,asyouascend,closebytheverytop。Anunsightlyheapofblackturf—earthstandsrightaboveittothenorth。Turf—heaps,bothlargeandsmall,areinabundanceinthevicinity。

  AftertakingpossessionoftheSevernbydrinkingatitssource,ratherashabbysourceforsonobleastream,Isaid,\"NowletusgotothefountainoftheWye。\"

  \"Aquarterofanhourwilltakeustoit,yourhonour,\"saidtheguide,leadingtheway。

  ThesourceoftheWye,whichisalittlepool,notmuchlargerthanthatwhichconstitutesthefountainoftheSevern,standsnearthetopofagrassyhillwhichformspartoftheGreatPlynlimmon。Thestreamafterleavingitssourcerunsdownthehilltowardstheeast,andthentakesaturntothesouth。TheMountainsoftheSevernandtheWyeareincloseproximitytoeachother。ThatoftheRheidolstandssomewhatapartfrontboth,asif,proudofitsownbeauty,itdisdainedtheothertwofortheirhomeliness。Allthreearecontainedwithinthecompassofamile。

  \"Andnow,Isuppose,sir,thatourworkisdone,andwemaygobacktowherewecamefrom,\"saidmyguide,asIstoodonthegrassyhillafterdrinkingcopiouslyofthefountainoftheWye。

  \"Wemay,\"saidI;\"butbeforewedoImustrepeatsomelinesmadebyamanwhovisitedthesesources,andexperiencedthehospitalityofachieftaininthisneighbourhoodfourhundredyearsago。\"Thentakingoffmyhat,Iliftedupmyvoiceandsang:—

  \"FromhighPlynlimmon’sshaggysideThreestreamsinthreedirectionsglide;

  TothousandsattheirmouthswhotarryHoney,goldandmeadtheycarry。

  FlowalsofromPlynlimmonhighThreestreamsofgenerosity;

  Thefirst,anoblestreamindeed,LikerillsofMonarunswithmead;

  ThesecondbearsfromvineyardsthickWinetothefeebleandthesick;

  Thethird,tilltimeshallbenomore,Mingledwithgoldshallsilverpour。\"

  \"Nicepennillion,sir,Idaresay,\"saidmyguide,\"providedapersoncouldunderstandthem。What’smeantbyallthismead,wine,gold,andsilver?\"

  \"Why,\"saidI,\"thebardmeanttosaythatPlynlimmon,bymeansofitsthreechannels,sendsblessingsandwealthinthreedifferentdirectionstodistantplaces,andthatthepersonwhomhecametovisit,andwholivedonPlynlimmon,distributedhisbountyinthreedifferentways,givingmeadtothousandsathisbanquets,winefromthevineyardsofGasconytothesickandfeebleoftheneighbourhood,andgoldandsilvertothosewhowerewillingtobetipped,amongstwhomnodoubtwashimself,aspoetshaveneverbeenabovereceivingapresent。\"

  \"Noraboveaskingforone,yourhonour;there’saprydyddinthisneighbourhoodwhowillneverloseashillingforwantofaskingforit。Now,sir,havethekindnesstotellmethenameofthemanwhomadethosepennillion。\"

  \"LewisGlynCothi,\"saidI;\"atleast,itwashewhomadethepennillionfromwhichthoseversesaretranslated。\"

  \"Andwhatwasthenameofthegentlemanwhomhecametovisit?\"

  \"Hisname,\"saidI,\"wasDafyddabThomasVychan。\"

  \"Andwheredidhelive?\"

  \"Why,Ibelieve,helivedatthecastle,whichyoutoldmeoncestoodonthespotwhichyoupointedoutaswecameup。Atanyrate,helivedsomewhereuponPlynlimmon。\"

  \"IwishtherewassomerichgentlemanatpresentlivingonPlynlimmon,\"saidmyguide;\"oneofthatsortismuchwanted。\"

  \"Youcan’thaveeverythingatthesametime,\"saidI;\"formerlyyouhadachieftainwhogaveawaywineandmead,andoccasionallyabitofgoldorsilver,butthennotravellersandtouristscametoseethewondersofthehills,foratthattimenobodycaredanythingabouthills;atpresentyouhavenochieftain,butplentyofvisitors,whocometoseethehillsandthesources,andscatterplentyofgoldabouttheneighbourhood。\"

  Wenowbentourstepshomeward,bearingslightlytothenorth,goingoverhillsanddalescoveredwithgorseandling。Myguidewalkedwithacalmanddeliberategait,yetIhadconsiderabledifficultyinkeepingupwithhim。Therewas,however,nothingsurprisinginthis;hewasashepherdwalkingonhisownhill,andhavingfirst—ratewind,andknowingeveryinchoftheground,madegreatwaywithoutseemingtobeintheslightesthurry:Iwouldnotadvisearoad—walker,evenifhebeafirst—rateone,toattempttocompetewithashepherdonhisown,orindeedanyhill;

  shouldhedoso,theconceitwouldsoonbetakenoutofhim。

  Afteralittletimewesawarivuletrunningfromthewest。

  \"Thisffrwd,\"saidmyguide,\"iscalledFrennig。ItheredividesshireTrefaldwynfromCardiganshire,oneinNorthandtheotherinSouthWales。\"

  Shortlyafterwardswecametoahillockofratherasingularshape。

  \"Thisplace,sir,\"saidhe,\"iscalledEisteddfa。\"

  \"Whyisitcalledso?\"saidI。\"Eisteddfameanstheplacewherepeoplesitdown。\"

  \"Itdoesso,\"saidtheguide,\"anditiscalledtheplaceofsittingbecausethreemenfromdifferentquartersoftheworldoncemethere,andoneproposedthattheyshouldsitdown。\"

  \"Anddidthey?\"saidI。

  \"Theydid,sir;andwhentheyhadsatdowntheytoldeachothertheirhistories。\"

  \"Ishouldbegladtoknowwhattheirhistorieswere,\"saidI。

  \"Ican’texactlytellyouwhattheywere,butIhaveheardsaythattherewasagreatdealinthemabouttheTylwythTegorfairies。\"

  \"Doyoubelieveinfairies?\"saidI。

  \"Ido,sir;buttheyareveryseldomseen,andwhentheyaretheydonoharmtoanybody。Ionlywishtherewereasfewcorpse—

  candlesasthereareTylwithTeg,andthattheydidaslittleharm。\"

  \"Theyforeshowpeople’sdeaths,don’tthey?\"saidI。

  \"Theydo,sir;butthat’snotalltheharmtheydo。Theyareverydangerousforanybodytomeetwith。Iftheycomebumpupagainstyouwhenyouarewalkingcarelesslyit’sgenerallyalloverwithyouinthisworld。I’llgiveyouanexample:AmanreturningfrommarketfromLlanEglostoLlanCurig,notfarfromPlynlimmon,wasstruckdowndeadasahorsenotlongagobyacorpse—candle。Itwasarainy,windynight,andthewindandrainwereblowinginhisface,sothathecouldnotseeit,orgetoutofitsway。Andyetthecandlewasnotabroadonpurposetokilltheman。Thebusinessthatitwasaboutwastoprognosticatethedeathofawomanwholivednearthespot,andwhosehusbanddealtinwool—poorthing!

  shewasdeadandburiedinlessthanafortnight。Ah,master,I

  wishthatcorpse—candleswereasfewandaslittledangerousastheTylwithTegorfairies。\"

  Wereturnedtotheinn,whereIsettledwiththehonestfellow,addingatrifletowhatIhadagreedtogivehim。Thensittingdown,Icalledforalargemeasureofale,andinvitedhimtopartakeofit。Heacceptedmyofferwithmanythanksandbows,andaswesatanddrankouralewehadagreatdealofdiscourseabouttheplaceswehadvisited。Thealebeingfinished,Igotupandsaid:

  \"ImustnowbeofffortheDevil’sBridge!\"

  Whereuponhealsoarose,andofferingmehishand,said:

  \"Farewell,master;Ishallneverforgetyou。Wereallthegentlefolkswhocomeheretoseethesourceslikeyou,weshouldindeedfeelnowantinthesehillsofsuchagentlemanasisspokenofinthepennillion。\"

  ThesunwasgoingdownasIlefttheinn。Irecrossedthestreamletbymeansofthepoleandrail。Thewaterwasrunningwithmuchlessviolencethaninthemorning,andwasconsiderablylower。Theeveningwascalmandbeautifullycool,withaslighttendencytofrost。Iwalkedalongwithaboundingandelasticstep,andneverremembertohavefeltmorehappyandcheerful。

  Ireachedthehospiceataboutsixo’clock,abrightmoonshininguponme,andfoundacapitalsupperawaitingme,whichIenjoyedexceedingly。

  Howoneenjoysone’ssupperatone’sinnafteragoodday’swalk,providedonehastheproudandgloriousconsciousnessofbeingabletopayone’sreckoningonthemorrow!

  CHAPTERLXXXIX

  AMorningView—HafodYchdryd—TheMonument—Fairy—lookingPlace—EdwardLhuyd。

  THEmorningofthesixthwasbrightandglorious。AsIlookedfromthewindowoftheuppersitting—roomofthehospicethescenewhichpresenteditselfwaswildandbeautifultoadegree。Theoak—

  coveredtopsofthevolcaniccraterweregildedwiththebrightestsunshine,whilsttheeasternsidesremainedindarkshadeandthegapornarrowentrancetothenorthinshadowyetdarker,inthemidstofwhichshonethesilveroftheRheidolcataract。ShouldI

  liveahundredyearsIshallneverforgetthewildfantasticbeautyofthatmorningscene。

  Ileftthefriendlyhospiceataboutnineo’clocktopursuemysouthernjourney。Bythistimethemorninghadlostmuchofitsbeauty,andthedullgreyskycharacteristicofNovemberbegantoprevail。Thewaylayupahilltothesouth—east;onmyleftwasaglendownwhichtheriveroftheMonkrolledwithnoiseandfoam。

  Thecountrysoonbecamenakedanddreary,andcontinuedsoforsomemiles。Atlength,comingtothetopofahill,Isawaparkbeforeme,throughwhichtheroadledafterpassingunderastatelygateway。IhadreachedtheconfinesofthedomainofHafod。

  HafodYchdryd,orthesummermansionofUchtryd,hasfromtimeimmemorialbeenthenameofadwellingonthesideofahillabovetheYstwyth,lookingtotheeast。AtfirstitwasasummerboothieorhuntinglodgetoWelshchieftains,butsubsequentlyexpandedtotheroomy,comfortabledwellingofWelshsquires,wherehospitalitywasmuchpractisedandbardsandharpersliberallyencouraged。

  WhilstbelongingtoanancientfamilyofthenameofJohnes,severalmembersofwhichmadenoinconsiderablefigureinliterature,itwascelebrated,farandwide,foritslibrary,inwhichwastobefound,amongstothertreasures,alargecollectionofWelshmanuscriptsonvarioussubjects—history,medicine,poetryandromance。Thehouse,however,andthelibrarywerebothdestroyedinadreadfulfirewhichbrokeout。ThisfireisgenerallycalledthegreatfireofHafod,andsomeofthosewhowitnessedithavebeenheardtosaythatitsviolencewassogreatthatburningraftersmixedwithflamingbookswerehurledhighabovethesummitsofthehills。Thelossofthehousewasamatteroftrivialitycomparedwiththatofthelibrary。Thehousewassoonrebuilt,andprobably,phoenix—like,lookedallthebetterforhavingbeenburnt,butthelibrarycouldneverberestored。Ontheextinctionofthefamily,thelasthopeofwhich,anangelicgirl,fadedawayintheyear1811,thedomainbecamethepropertyofthelateDukeofNewcastle,akindandphilanthrophicnobleman,andagreatfriendofagriculture,whohelditformanyyears,andconsiderablyimprovedit。AfterhisdeceaseitwaspurchasedbytheheadofanancientLancashirefamily,whousedthemodernhouseasasummerresidence,astheWelshchieftainshadusedthewoodenboothieofold。

  Iwenttoakindoflodge,whereIhadbeentoldthatIshouldfindsomebodywhowouldadmitmetothechurch,whichstoodwithinthegroundsandcontainedamonumentwhichIwasverydesirousofseeing,partlyfromitsbeingconsideredoneofthemasterpiecesofthegreatChantrey,andpartlybecauseitwasamemorialtothelovelychild,thelastscionoftheoldfamilywhohadpossessedthedomain。Agood—lookingyoungwoman,theonlypersonwhomI

  saw,onmytellingmyerrand,forthwithtookakeyandconductedmetothechurch。Thechurchwasaneatedificewithratheramodernlook。Itexhibitednothingremarkablewithout,andonlyonethingremarkablewithin,namely,themonument,whichwasindeedworthyofnotice,andwhich,hadChantreyexecutednothingelse,mightwellhaveentitledhimtobeconsidered,whattheworldhaslongpronouncedhim,theprinceofBritishsculptors。

  Thismonument,whichisofthepurestmarble,isplacedontheeasternsideofthechurch,belowawindowofstainedglass,andrepresentsatrulyaffectingscene:aladyandgentlemanarestandingoveradyinggirlofangelicbeauty,whoisextendedonacouch,andfromwhosehandavolume,theBookofLife,isfalling。

  Theladyisweeping。

  Beneathisthefollowinginscription—

  TotheMemoryofMARY

  TheonlychildofTHOMASandJANEJOHNES

  Whodiedin1811

  Afterafewdays’sicknessThismonumentisdedicatedByherparents。

  Aninscriptionworthy,byitssimplicityandpathos,tostandbelowsuchamonument。

  Afterpresentingatrifletothewoman,who,tomygreatsurprise,couldnotspeakawordofEnglish,Ileftthechurch,anddescendedthesideofthehill,nearthetopofwhichitstands。Thescenerywasexceedinglybeautiful。Belowmewasabrightgreenvalley,atthebottomofwhichtheYstwythranbrawling,nowhidamongstgroves,nowshowingalongstretchofwater。Beyondtherivertotheeastwasanoblemountain,richlywooded。TheYstwyth,afteracircuitouscourse,joinstheRheidolnearthestrandoftheIrishChannel,whichtheunitedriversenterataplacecalledAberYstwyth,wherestandsalovelytownofthesamename,whichsprangupundertheprotectionofabaronialcastle,stillproudandcommandingeveninitsruins,builtbyStrongbow,theconquerorofthegreatwesternisle。Nearthelowerpartofthevalleytheroadtendedtothesouth,upanddownthroughwoodsandbowers,thescenerystilleverincreasinginbeauty。Atlength,afterpassingthroughagateandturningroundasharpcorner,IsuddenlybeheldHafodonmyrighthand,tothewestatalittledistanceaboveme,onarisingground,withanoblerangeofmountainsbehindit。

  Atrulyfairyplaceitlooked,beautifulbutfantastic,inthebuildingofwhichthreestylesofarchitectureseemedtohavebeenemployed。AtthesouthernendwasaGothictower;atthenorthernanIndianpagoda;themiddleparthadmuchtheappearanceofaGrecianvilla。Thewallswereofresplendentwhiteness,andthewindows,whichwerenumerous,shonewithbeautifulgilding。SuchwasmodernHafod,astrangecontrast,nodoubt,tothehuntinglodgeofold。

  Aftergazingatthishouseofeccentrictasteforaboutaquarterofanhour,sometimeswithadmiration,sometimeswithastrongdispositiontolaugh,Ifollowedtheroad,whichledpastthehouseinnearlyasoutherlydirection。Presentlythevalleybecamemorenarrow,andcontinuednarrowingtilltherewaslittlemoreroomthanwasrequiredfortheroadandtheriver,whichrandeepbelowitontheleft—handside。PresentlyIcametoagate,theboundaryinthedirectioninwhichIwasgoingoftheHafoddomain。

  Here,whenabouttoleaveHafod,Ishalldevoteafewlinestoaremarkablemanwhosenameshouldbeeverassociatedwiththeplace。

  EdwardLhuydwasborninthevicinityofHafodabouttheperiodoftheRestoration。Hisfatherwasaclergyman,whoaftergivinghimanexcellenteducationathomesenthimtoOxford,atwhichseatoflearningheobtainedanhonourabledegree,officiatedforseveralyearsastutor,andwaseventuallymadecustodiaryoftheAshmoleanMuseum。Fromhisearlyyouthhedevotedhimselfwithindefatigablezealtotheacquisitionoflearning。HewasfondofnaturalhistoryandBritishantiquities,buthisfavouritepursuit,andthatinwhichheprincipallydistinguishedhimself,wasthestudyoftheCelticdialects;anditisbutdoingjusticetohismemorytosay,thathewasnotonlythebestCelticscholarofhistime,butthatnoonehasarisensinceworthytobeconsideredhisequalinCelticerudition。Partlyattheexpenseoftheuniversity,partlyatthatofvariouspowerfulindividualswhopatronizedhim,hetravelledthroughIreland,theWesternHighlands,Wales,CornwallandArmorica,forthepurposeofcollectingCelticmanuscripts。HewasparticularlysuccessfulinIrelandandWales。

  SeveralofthemostpreciousIrishmanuscriptsinOxford,andalsointheChandosLibrary,wereofLhuyd’scollection,andtohimtheoldhallatHafodwaschieflyindebtedforitstreasuresofancientBritishliterature。ShortlyafterreturningtoOxfordfromhisCelticwanderingshesatdowntothecompositionofagrandworkinthreeparts,underthetitleofArchaeologiaBritannica,whichhehadlongprojected。ThefirstwastobedevotedtotheCelticdialects;thesecondtoBritishAntiquities,andthethirdtothenaturalhistoryoftheBritishIsles。Heonlylivedtocompletethefirstpart。ItcontainsvariousCelticgrammarsandvocabularies,toeachofwhichthereisaprefacewrittenbyLhuydintheparticulardialecttowhichthevocabularyorgrammarisdevoted。OfalltheseprefacestheonetotheIrishisthemostcuriousandremarkable。ThefirstpartoftheArchaeologiawaspublishedatOxfordin1707,twoyearsbeforethedeathoftheauthor。Ofhiscorrespondence,whichwasveryextensive,severallettershavebeenpublished,allofthemrelatingtophilology,antiquities,andnaturalhistory。

  CHAPTERXC

  AnAdventure—SpyttyYstwyth—Wormwood。

  SHORTLYafterleavingthegroundsofHafodIcametoabridgeovertheYstwyth。Icrossedit,andwasadvancingalongtheroadwhichledapparentlytothesouth—east,whenIcametoacompanyofpeoplewhoseemedtobeloiteringabout。Itconsistedentirelyofyoungmenandwomen,theformerwithcrimsonfavours,thelatterinthegarbofoldWales,bluetunicsandsharpcrownedhats。Goinguptooneoftheyoungwomen,Isaid,\"Pettiyw?what’sthematter!\"

  \"Priodas(amarriage),\"shereplied,afterlookingatmeattentively。Ithenaskedherthenameofthebridge,whereuponshegaveabroadgrin,andaftersome,littletimereplied:\"PontyGroes(thebridgeofthecross)。\"Iwasabouttoaskhersomeotherquestionwhensheturnedawaywithaloudchuckle,andsaidsomethingtoanotherwenchnearher,who,grinningyetmoreuncouthly,saidsomethingtoathird,whogrinnedtoo,andliftingupherhandsandspreadingherfingerswide,said:\"DynoddidiryGogledd—amanfromthenorthcountry,hee,hee!\"Forthwiththerewasageneralshout,thewenchescrying:\"Amanfromthenorthcountry,hee,hee!\"andthefellowscrying:\"Amanfromthenorthcountry,hoo,hoo!\"

  \"Isthisthewayyoutreatstrangersinthesouth?\"saidI。ButI

  hadscarcelyutteredthewordswhenwithredoubledshoutsthecompanyexclaimed:\"There’sCumraeg!there’sprettyCumraeg。Goback,David,toshireFon!ThatCumraegwon’tpasshere。\"

  FindingtheydislikedmyWelshIhadrecoursetomyownlanguage。

  \"Really,\"saidIinEnglish,\"suchconductisunaccountable。Whatdoyoumean?\"Butthisonlymademattersworse,fortheshoutsgrewlouderstill,andeveryonecried:\"There’sprettyEnglish!

  Well,ifIcouldn’tspeakbetterEnglishthanthatI’dneverspeakEnglishatall。No,David;ifyoumustspeakatall,sticktoCumraeg。\"Thenforthwith,allthecompanysetthemselvesinviolentmotion,thewomenrushinguptomewiththeirpalmsandfingersspreadoutinmyface,withouttouchingme,however,astheywheeledroundmeataboutayard’sdistance,crying:\"Amanfromthenorthcountry,hee,hee!\"andthefellowsactingjustinthesameway,rushingupwiththeirhandsspreadout,andthenwheelingroundmewithcriesof\"Amanfromthenorthcountry,hoo,hoo!\"IwassoenragedthatImadeforaheapofstonesbytheroad—side,intendingtotakesomeupandflingthematthecompany。

  Reflecting,however,thatIhadbutonepairofhandsandthecompanyatleastforty,andthatbysuchanattemptatrevengeI

  shouldonlymakemyselfridiculous,Igaveupmyintention,andcontinuedmyjourneyatarapidpace,pursuedforalongwayby\"hee,hee,\"and\"hoo,hoo,\"and:\"Goback,David,toyourgoatsinAnglesey,youarenotwantedhere。\"

  Ibegantodescendahillformingtheeasternsideofanimmensevalley,atthebottomofwhichrolledtheriver。Beyondthevalleytothewestwasanenormoushill,onthetopofwhichwasamostsingular—lookingcrag,seeminglyleaninginthedirectionofthesouth。Ontheright—handsideoftheroadwereimmenseworksofsomekindinfullplayandactivity,forengineswereclangingandpuffsofsmokewereascendingfromtallchimneys。OninquiringofaboythenameoftheworksIwastoldthattheywerecalledtheworksofLevelVawr,ortheGreatLevel,aminingestablishment;

  butwhenIaskedhimthenameofthehillwiththesingularpeak,ontheothersideofthevalley,heshookhisheadandsaidhedidnotknow。NearthetopofthehillIcametoavillageconsistingofafewcottagesandashabby—lookingchurch。Arivuletdescendingfromsomecragstotheeastcrossestheroad,whichleadsthroughtheplace,andtumblingdownthevalley,joinstheYstwythatthebottom。Seeingawomanstandingatthedoor,I

  inquiredthenameofthevillage。

  \"SpyttyYstwyth,\"shereplied,butshe,nomorethantheboydownbelow,couldtellmethenameofthestrange—lookinghillacrossthevalley。ThissecondSpyttyormonastichospital,whichIhadcometo,lookedineveryrespectaninferiorplacetothefirst。

  Whateveritsformerstatemighthavebeen,nothingbutdirtandwretchednesswerenowvisible。HavingreachedthetopofthehillIentereduponawildmooryregion。PresentlyIcrossedalittlebridgeoverarivulet,andseeingasmallhouseontheshutterofwhichwaspainted\"cwrw,\"Iwentin,satdownonanoldchair,whichIfoundvacant,andsaidinEnglishtoanoldwomanwhosatknittingbythewindow:\"Bringmeapintofale!\"

  \"DimSaesneg!\"saidtheoldwoman。

  \"Itoldyoutobringmeapintofale,\"saidItoherinherownlanguage。

  \"Youshallhaveitimmediately,sir,\"saidshe,andgoingtoacask,shefilledajugwithale,andafterhandingittomeresumedherseatandknitting。

  \"Itisnotverybadale,\"saidI,afterIhadtastedit。

  \"Itoughttobeverygood,\"saidtheoldwoman,\"forIbreweditmyself。\"

  \"Thegoodnessofale,\"saidI,\"doesnotsomuchdependonwhobrewsitasonwhatitisbrewedof。Nowthereissomethinginthisalewhichoughtnottobe。Whatisitmadeof?\"

  \"Maltandhop。\"

  \"Ittastesverybitter,\"saidI。\"Istherenochwerwlys(13)init?\"

  \"Idonotknowwhatchwerwlysis,\"saidtheoldwoman。

  \"ItiswhattheSaxonscallwormwood,\"saidI。

  \"Oh,wermod。No,thereisnowermodinmybeer,atleastnotmuch。\"

  \"Oh,thenthereissome;Ithoughttherewas。Whydoyouputsuchstuffintoyourale?\"

  \"Wearegladtoputitinsometimeswhenhopsaredear,astheyarethisyear。Moreover,wermodisnotbadstuff,andsomefolkslikethetastebetterthanthatofhops。\"

  \"Well,Idon’t。However,thealeisdrinkable。WhatamItogiveyouforthepint?\"

  \"Youaretogivemeagroat。\"

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