第13章
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  \"YourhannerisanOrangeman,Isee。Well,yourhanner,theOrangeisnowinthekennel,andtheCroppieshaveitalltheirownway。\"

  \"Andperhaps,\"saidI,\"beforeIdie,theOrangewillbeoutofthekennelandtheCroppiesin,evenastheywereinmyyoungdays。\"

  \"Whoknows,yourhanner?andwhoknowsthatImaynotplaytheoldtuneroundWillie’simageinCollegeGreen,evenasIusedsometwenty—sevenyearsago?\"

  \"OhthenyouhavebeenanOrangefiddler?\"

  \"Ihave,yourhanner。AndnowasyourhannerhasbehavedlikeagentlemantomeIwilltellyeallmyhistory。IwasborninthecityofDublin,thatisinthevillageofDonnybrook,asItouldyourhannerbefore。ItwastothetradeofbricklayingIwasbred,andbricklayingIfollowedtillatlast,gettingmylegsmashed,notbyfallingofftheladder,butbyarowinthefair,Iwasobligedtogiveitup,forhowcouldIrunuptheladderwithapattenonmyfoot,whichtheyputontomakemybrokenlegaslongastheother。Wellyourhanner,beingobligedtogiveupmybricklaying,Itooktofiddling,towhichIhadalwaysanaturalinclination,andplayedaboutthestreets,andatfairs,andwakes,andweddings。AtlengthsomeOrangemengettingacquaintedwithme,andlikingmystyleofplaying,invitedmetotheirlodge,wheretheygavemetodrinkandtouldmethatifIwouldchangemyreligion,andjointhem,andplaytheirtunes,theywouldmakeitanswermypurpose。Well,yourhanner,withoutmuchsticklingI

  gaveupmyPopery,joinedtheOrangelodge,learnedtheOrangetunes,andbecamearegularProtestantboy,andtrulytheOrangemenkepttheirword,andmadeitanswermypurpose。OhthemeatanddrinkIgot,andthemoneyImadebyplayingattheOrangelodgesandbeforetheprocessionswhentheOrangemenparadedthestreetswiththeirOrangecolours。Andoh,whatadayformewasthegloriousfirstofJulywhenwithmywholebodycoveredwithOrangeribbons,IfiddledCroppiesLieDown,BoyneWater,andtheProtestantBoysbeforetheprocessionwhichwalkedroundWillie’sfigureonhorsebackinCollegeGreen,themanandhorseallablazewithOrangecolours。Butnothinglastsunderthesun,asyourhannerknows;Orangeismbegantogodown;theGovernmentscowledatit,andatlastpassedalawpreventingtheProtestantboysdressingupthefigureonthefirstofJuly,andwalkingroundit。

  Thatwasthedeath—blowoftheOrangeparty,yourhanner;theyneverrecoveredit,butbegantodespondanddwindle,andIwiththem;fortherewasscarcelyanydemandforOrangetunes。ThenDanO’Connellarosewithhisemancipationandrepalecries,andtheninsteadofOrangeprocessionsandwalkings,therewerePapistprocessionsandmobs,whichmademeafraidtostirout,lestknowingmeforanOrangefiddler,theyshouldbreakmyhead,astheboysbrokemylegatDonnybrookfair。AtlengthsomeoftherepalersandemancipatorsknowingthatIwasafirst—ratehandatfiddlingcametomeandtouldme,thatifIwouldgiveoverplayingCroppiesLieDownandotherOrangetunes,andwouldplayCroppiesGetUp,andwhatnot,andbecomeaCatholicandarepaler,andanemancipator,theywouldmakeamanofme—soasmyOrangetradewasgone,andIwashalf—starved,Iconsinted,nothowevertilltheyhadintroducedmetoDanielO’Connell,whocalledmeacridittomycountry,andtheIrishHorpheus,andpromisedmeasovereignifIwouldconsinttojointhecause,ashecalledit。Well,yourhanner,IjoinedwiththecauseandbecameaPapist,ImaneaCatholiconcemore,andwentattheheadofprocessionscoveredalloverwithgreenribbons,playingCroppiesGetUp,GrannyWhale,andthelike。But,yourhanner,thoughIwentthewholehogwiththerepalersandemancipators,theydidnotmaketheirwordsgoodbymakingamanofme。Scantandsparingweretheyinthemateanddrink,andyetmoresparinginthemoney,andDanielO’Connellnevergavemethesovereignwhichhepromisedme。No,yourhanner,thoughIplayedCroppiesGetUp,tillmyfingersached,asI

  stumpedbeforehimandhismobsandprocessions,henevergavemethesovereign:unlikeyourhannerwhogavemetheshillingyepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesLieDown,DanielO’ConnellnevergavemethesovereignhepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesGetUp。

  Och,yourhanner,IoftenwishedtheouldOrangedayswerebackagain。HoweverasIcoulddonobetterIcontinuedgoingthewholehogwiththeemancipatorsandrepalersandDanO’Connell;Iwentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadgotemancipation;andI

  wentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadnearlygotrepale—

  whenallofasuddentheyletthewholethingdrop—DanandhispartyhavingfrightedtheGovernmentoutofitssevensenses,andgottenalltheycouldget,inmoneyandplaces,whichwasalltheywanted,letthewholehullabaloodrop,andofcoursemyself,whoformedpartofit。IwenttothosewhohadpersuadedmetogiveupmyOrangetunes,andtoplayPapistones,beggingthemtogivemework;buttheytouldmeverycivillythattheyhadnofurtheroccasionformyservices。IwenttoDanielO’Connellremindinghimofthesovereignhehadpromisedme,andofferingifhegaveitmetoplayCroppiesGetUpunderthenoseofthelord—lieutenanthimself;buthetouldmethathehadnottimetoattendtome,andwhenIpersisted,bademegototheDivilandshakemyself。Well,yourhanner,seeingnoprospectformyselfinmyowncountry,andhavingincurredsomelittledebts,forwhichIfearedtobearrested,IcameovertoEnglandandWales,wherewithlittlecontentandsatisfactionIhavepassedsevenyears。\"

  \"Well,\"saidI;\"thankyouforyourhistory—farewell。\"

  \"Stap,yourhanner;doesyourhannerthinkthattheOrangewilleverbeoutofthekennel,andthattheOrangeboyswilleverwalkroundthebrassmanandhorseinCollegeGreenastheydidofould?\"

  \"Whoknows?\"saidI。\"Butsupposeallthatweretohappen,whatwoulditsignifytoyou?\"

  \"WhythendivilbeinmypattenifIwouldnotgobacktoDonnybrookandDublin,hoisttheOrangecockade,andbecomeasgoodanOrangeboyasever。\"

  \"What,\"saidI,\"andgiveupPoperyforthesecondtime?\"

  \"Iwould,yourhanner;andwhynot?forinspiteofwhatIhaveheardFatherTobansay,IambynomeanscertainthatallProtestantswillbedamned。\"

  \"Farewell,\"saidI。

  \"Farewell,yourhanner,andlonglifeandprosperitytoyou!GodblessyourhannerandyourOrangeface。Ah,theOrangeboysaretheboysforkeepingfaith。TheyneverservedmeasDanO’Connellandhisdirtygangofrepalersandemancipatorsdid。Farewell,yourhanner,oncemore;andhere’sanotherscratchoftheilliganttuneyourhannerissofondof,tocheerupyourhanner’searsuponyourway。\"

  AndlongafterIhadlefthimIcouldhearhimplayingonhisfiddleinfirst—ratestylethebeautifultuneof\"Down,down,CroppiesLieDown。\"

  CHAPTERXXVI

  CeiniogMawr—PentreVoelas—TheOldConway—StupendousPass—

  TheGwedirFamily—CapelCurig—TheTwoChildren—Bread—

  WonderfulEcho—TremendousWalker。

  IWALKEDonbrisklyoveraflatuninterestingcountry,andinaboutanhour’stimecameinfrontofalargestonehouse。Itstoodneartheroad,ontheleft—handside,withapondandpleasanttreesbeforeit,andanumberofcorn—stacksbehind。Ithadsomethingtheappearanceofaninn,butdisplayednosign。AsIwasstandinglookingatit,amanwiththelookofalabourer,andwithadogbyhisside,cameoutofthehouseandadvancedtowardsme。

  \"Whatisthenameofthisplace?\"saidItohiminEnglishashedrewnigh。

  \"Sir,\"saidtheman,\"thenameofthehouseisCeiniogMawr。\"

  \"Isitaninn?\"saidI。

  \"Notnow,sir;butsomeyearsagoitwasaninn,andaverylargeone,atwhichcoachesusedtostop;atpresentitisoccupiedbyanamaethwr—thatisafarmer,sir。\"

  \"CeiniogMawrmeansagreatpenny,\"saidI,\"whyisitcalledbythatname?\"

  \"Ihaveheard,sir,thatbeforeitwasaninnitwasaveryconsiderableplace,namelyaroyalmint,atwhichpenniesweremade,andonthataccountitwascalledCeiniogMawr。\"

  IwassubsequentlytoldthatthenameofthisplacewasCerniogeMawr。Ifsuchbetherealnamethelegendaboutthemintfallstotheground,Cerniogehavingnothingtodowithpence。CerninWelshmeansajaw。PerhapsthetruenameofthehouseisCorniawg,whichinterpretedisaplacewithplentyofturretsorchimneys。A

  mileortwofurtherthegroundbegantorise,andIcametoasmallvillageattheentranceofwhichwasawater—wheel—nearthevillagewasagentleman’sseatalmostsurroundedbygroves。AfterIhadpassedthroughthevillage,seeingawomanseatedbytheroadsideknitting,IaskedherinEnglishitsname。FindingshehadnoSaesnegIrepeatedthequestioninWelsh,whereuponshetoldmethatitwascalledPentreVoelas。

  \"Andwhomdoesthe’Plas’belongtoyonderamongstthegroves?\"

  saidI。

  \"ItbelongstoMrWynn,sir,andsodoesthevillageandagreatdealofthelandabouthere。AverygoodgentlemanisMrWynn,sir;heisverykindtohistenantsandaverygoodladyisMrsWynn,sir;inthewintershegivesmuchsouptothepoor。\"

  AfterleavingthevillageofPentreVoelasIsoonfoundmyselfinawildhillyregion。Icrossedabridgeoverariver,which,brawlingandtumblingamidstrocks,shapeditscoursetothenorth—

  east。AsIproceeded,thecountrybecamemoreandmorewild;thereweredinglesandhollowsinabundance,andfantastic—lookinghills,someofwhichwerebare,andotherscladwithtreesofvariouskinds。Cametoalittlewellinacavity,duginahighbankontheleft—handsideoftheroad,andfencedbyrudestoneworkoneitherside;thewellwasaboutteninchesindiameter,andasmanydeep。Wateroozingfromthebankuponaslantingtilefastenedintotheearthfellintoit。Afterdamminguptheendofthetilewithmyhand,anddrinkingsomedeliciouswater,Ipassedonandpresentlyarrivedatacottage,justinsidethedoorofwhichsatagood—lookingmiddle—agedwomanengagedinknitting,thegeneraloccupationofWelshfemales。

  \"Good—day,\"saidItoherinWelsh。\"Fineweather。\"

  \"Intruth,sir,itisfineweatherfortheharvest。\"

  \"Areyoualoneinthehouse?\"

  \"Iam,sir,myhusbandhasgonetohislabour。\"

  \"Haveyouanychildren?\"

  \"Two,sir;buttheyareoutatservice。\"

  \"Whatisthenameofthisplace?\"

  \"PantPaddock,sir。\"

  \"Doyougetyourwaterfromthelittlewellyonder?\"

  \"Wedo,sir,andgoodwateritis。\"

  \"Ihavedrunkofit。\"

  \"Muchgoodmaywhatyouhavedrunkdoyou,sir!\"

  \"Whatisthenameoftherivernearhere?\"

  \"ItiscalledtheConway,sir。\"

  \"Dearme;isthatrivertheConway?\"

  \"Youhaveheardofit,sir?\"

  \"Heardofit!itisoneofthefamousriversoftheworld。Thepoetsareveryfondofit—oneofthegreatpoetsofmycountrycallsittheoldConway。\"

  \"Isoneriverolderthananother,sir?\"

  \"That’sashrewdquestion。Canyouread?\"

  \"Ican,sir。\"

  \"Haveyouanybooks?\"

  \"IhavetheBible,sir。\"

  \"Willyoushowitme?\"

  \"Willingly,sir。\"

  Thengettingupshetookabookfromashelfandhandedittome,atthesametimebeggingmetoenterthehouseandsitdown。I

  declined,andsheagaintookherseatandresumedheroccupation。

  Onopeningthebookthefirstwordswhichmetmyeyewere:\"Gadimifynedtrwydydir!—Letmegothroughyourcountry\"(Numb。XX。

  22)。

  \"Imaysaythesewords,\"saidI,pointingtothepassage。\"Letmegothroughyourcountry。\"

  \"Noonewillhinderyou,sir,foryouseemacivilgentleman。\"

  \"Noonehashinderedmehitherto。WhereverIhavebeeninWalesI

  haveexperiencednothingbutkindnessandhospitality,andwhenI

  returntomyowncountryIwillsayso。\"

  \"Whatcountryisyours,sir?\"

  \"England。Didyounotknowthatbymytongue?\"

  \"Ididnot,sir。Iknewbyyourtonguethatyouwerenotfromourparts—butIdidnotknowthatyouwereanEnglishman。ItookyouforaCumroofthesouthcountry。\"

  Returningthekindwomanherbook,andbiddingherfarewellI

  departed,andproceededsomemilesthroughatrulymagnificentcountryofwood,rock,andmountain。AtlengthIcametoasteepmountaingorge,downwhichtheroadrannearlyduenorth,theConwaytotheleftrunningwithgreatnoiseparallelwiththeroad,amongstbrokenrocks,whichchafeditintofoam。Iwasnowamidststupendoushills,whosepaps,peaks,andpinnaclesseemedtorisetotheveryheaven。Animmensemountainontherightsideoftheroadparticularlystruckmyattention,andoninquiringofamanbreakingstonesbytheroadsideIlearnedthatitwascalledDinasMawr,orthelargecitadel,perhapsfromaforthavingbeenbuiltuponittodefendthepassintheoldBritishtimes。ComingtothebottomofthepassIcrossedoverbyanancientbridge,and,passingthroughasmalltown,foundmyselfinabeautifulvalleywithmajestichillsoneitherside。ThiswastheDyffrynConway,thecelebratedValeofConway,towhichinthesummertimefashionablegentryfromallpartsofBritainresortforshadeandrelaxation。WhenaboutmidwaydownthevalleyIturnedtothewest,uponeofthegrandestpassesintheworld,havingtwoimmensedoor—postsofrockattheentrance。thenorthernoneprobablyrisingtothealtitudeofninehundredfeet。Onthesouthernsideofthispassneartheentrancewereneatdwellingsfortheaccommodationofvisitorswithcoolapartmentsonthegroundfloor,withlargewindows,lookingtowardstheprecipitoussideofthemightynorthernhill;withinthemIobservedtables,andbooks,andyoungmen,probablyEnglishcollegians,seatedatstudy。

  AfterIhadproceededsomewayupthepass,downwhichasmallriverran,awomanwhowasstandingontheright—handsideoftheway,seeminglyonthelook—out,beggedmeinbrokenEnglishtostepasideandlookatthefall。

  \"Youmeanawaterfall,Isuppose?\"saidI。

  \"Yes,sir。\"

  \"Andhowdoyoucallit?\"saidI。

  \"TheFalloftheSwallow,sir。\"

  \"AndinWelsh?\"saidI。

  \"RhaiadryWennol,sir。\"

  \"Andwhatisthenameoftheriver?\"saidI。

  \"WecalltherivertheLygwy,sir。\"

  ItoldthewomanIwouldgo,whereuponsheconductedmethroughagateontheright—handsideanddownapathoverhungwithtreestoarockprojectingintotheriver。TheFalloftheSwallowisnotamajesticsinglefall,butasuccessionofsmallones。Firstthereareanumberoflittlefoamingtorrents,burstingthroughrocksabouttwentyyardsabovethepromontoryonwhichIstood。Thencometwobeautifulrollsofwhitewater,dashingintoapoolalittlewayabovethepromontory;thenthereisaswirlofwaterrounditscornerintoapoolbelowonitsright,blackasdeath,andseeminglyofgreatdepth;thenarushthroughaverynarrowoutletintoanotherpool,fromwhichthewaterclamoursawaydowntheglen。SuchistheRhaiadryWennol,orSwallowFall;calledsofromtherapiditywithwhichthewatersrushandskipalong。

  Onaskingthewomanonwhosepropertythefallwas,sheinformedmethatitwasonthepropertyoftheGwedirfamily。ThenameofGwedirbroughttomymindthe\"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily,\"arareandcuriousbookwhichIhadreadinmyboyhood,andwhichwaswrittenbytherepresentativeofthatfamily,acertainSirJohnWynne,aboutthebeginningoftheseventeenthcentury。Itgivesanaccountofthefortunesofthefamily,fromitsearliestrise;butmoreparticularlyafterithademigrated,inordertoavoidbadneighbours,fromafairandfertiledistrictintoruggedSnowdonia,whereitfoundanythingbutthereposeitcameinquestof。ThebookwhichiswritteninboldgraphicEnglish,flingsconsiderablelightonthestateofsocietyinWales,inthetimeoftheTudors,atrulydeplorablestate,asthebookisfullofaccountsoffeuds,pettybutdesperateskirmishes,andrevengefulmurders。Tomanyofthedomesticsagas,orhistoriesofancientIcelandicfamilies,fromthecharacteroftheeventswhichitdescribesandalsofromthemannerinwhichitdescribesthem,the\"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily,\"bySirJohnWynne,bearsastrikingresemblance。

  AftergivingthewomansixpenceIleftthefall,andproceededonmyway。Ipresentlycrossedabridgeunderwhichrantheriverofthefall,andwassooninawidevalleyoneachsideofwhichwereloftyhillsdottedwithwood,andatthetopofwhichstoodamightymountain,bareandprecipitous,withtwopapslikethoseofPindusoppositeJanina,butsomewhatsharper。Itwasaregionoffairybeautyandofwildgrandeur。Meetinganoldbleared—eyedfarmerIinquiredthenameofthemountainandlearnedthatitwascalledMoelSiabodorShabod。Shortlyafterleavinghim,Iturnedfromtheroadtoinspectamonticlewhichappearedtometohavesomethingoftheappearanceofaburialheap。Itstoodinagreenmeadowbytheriverwhichrandownthevalleyontheleft。Whetheritwasagravehilloranaturalmonticle,Iwillnotsay;butstandinginthefairmeadow,therivuletmurmuringbesideit,andtheoldmountainlookingdownuponit,Ithoughtitlookedaverymeetresting—placeforanoldCelticking。

  TurningroundthenorthernsideofthemightySiabodIsoonreachedthevillageofCapelCurig,standinginavalleybetweentwohills,theeasternmostofwhichistheaforesaidMoelSiabod。HavingwalkednowtwentymilesinabroilingdayIthoughtithightimetotakesomerefreshment,andinquiredthewaytotheinn。Theinn,orratherthehotel,foritwasaverymagnificentedifice,stoodattheentranceofapassleadingtoSnowdon,onthesouthernsideofthevalley,inatotallydifferentdirectionfromtheroadleadingtoBangor,towhichplaceIwasbound。ThereIdinedinagrandsaloonamidstagreatdealoffashionablecompany,who,probablyconceivingfrommyheatedanddustyappearancethatIwassomepoorfellowtravellingonfootfrommotivesofeconomy,surveyedmewithlooksofthemostsuperciliousdisdain,which,however,neitherdeprivedmeofmyappetitenoroperateduncomfortablyonmyfeelings。

  Mydinnerfinished,Ipaidmybill,andhavingsaunteredalittleaboutthehotelgarden,whichissituatedontheborderofasmalllakeandfromwhich,throughthevistaofthepass,Snowdonmaybeseentoweringinmajestyatthedistanceofaboutsixmiles,I

  startedforBangor,whichisfourteenmilesfromCapelCurig。

  TheroadtoBangorfromCapelCurigisalmostduewest。Anhour’swalkingbroughtmetoableakmoor,extendingforalongwayamidstwildsterilehills。

  Thefirstofachainontheleft,wasahugelumpyhillwithaprecipicetowardstheroadprobablythreehundredfeethigh。WhenIhadcomenearlyparallelwiththecommencementofthisprecipice,Isawontheleft—handsideoftheroadtwochildrenlookingoveralowwallbehindwhichatalittledistancestoodawretchedhovel。

  OncomingupIstoppedandlookedatthem;theywereaboyandgirl;thefirstabouttwelve,thelatterayearortwoyounger;

  bothwretchedlydressedandlookingverysickly。

  \"HaveyouanyEnglish?\"saidI,addressingtheboyinWelsh。

  \"Dimgair,\"saidtheboy;\"notaword;thereisnoSaesnegnearhere。\"

  \"Whatisthenameofthisplace?\"

  \"ThenameofourhouseisHelyg。\"

  \"Andwhatisthenameofthathill?\"saidI,pointingtothehilloftheprecipice。

  \"AlltyGog—thehighplaceofthecuckoo。\"

  \"Haveyouafatherandmother?\"

  \"Wehave。\"

  \"Aretheyinthehouse?\"

  \"TheyaregonetoCapelCurig。\"

  \"Andtheyleftyoualone?\"

  \"Theydid。Withthecatandthetrin—wire。\"

  \"Doyourfatherandmothermakewire—work?\"

  \"Theydo。Theylivebymakingit。\"

  \"Whatisthewire—workfor?\"

  \"Itisforhedgestofencethefieldswith。\"

  \"Doyouhelpyourfatherandmother?\"

  \"Wedo;asfaraswecan。\"

  \"Youbothlookunwell。\"

  \"Wehavelatelyhadthecryd\"(ague)。

  \"Istheremuchcrydabouthere?\"

  \"Plenty。\"

  \"Doyoulivewell?\"

  \"Whenwehavebreadwelivewell。\"

  \"IfIgiveyouapennywillyoubringmesomewater?\"

  \"Wewill,whetheryougiveusapennyornot。Come,sister,letusgoandfetchthegentlemanwater。\"

  Theyranintothehouseandpresentlyreturned,thegirlbearingapanofwater。AfterIhaddrunkIgaveeachofthechildrenapenny,andreceivedinreturnfromeachadiolchorthanks。

  \"Caneitherofyouread?\"

  \"Neitheronenortheother。\"

  \"Canyourfatherandmotherread?\"

  \"Myfathercannot,mymothercanalittle。\"

  \"Aretherebooksinthehouse?\"

  \"Therearenot。\"

  \"NoBible?\"

  \"Thereisnobookatall。\"

  \"Doyougotochurch?\"

  \"Wedonot。\"

  \"Tochapel?\"

  \"Infineweather。\"

  \"Areyouhappy?\"

  \"Whenthereisbreadinthehouseandnocrydweareallhappy。\"

  \"Farewelltoyou,children。\"

  \"Farewelltoyou,gentleman!\"exclaimedboth。

  \"Ihavelearntsomething,\"saidI,\"ofWelshcottagelifeandfeelingfromthatpoorsicklychild。\"

  Ihadpassedthefirstandsecondofthehillswhichstoodontheleft,andahugelongmountainontherightwhichconfrontedboth,whenayoungmancamedownfromagullyonmylefthand,andproceededinthesamedirectionasmyself。Hewasdressedinabluecoatandcorduroytrowsers,andappearedtobeofaconditionalittleabovethatofalabourer。HeshookhisheadandscowledwhenIspoketohiminEnglish,butsmiledonmyspeakingWelsh,andsaid:\"Ah,youspeakCumraeg:IthoughtnoSaiscouldspeakCumraeg。\"Iaskedhimifhewasgoingfar。

  \"Aboutfourmiles,\"hereplied。

  \"OntheBangorroad?\"

  \"Yes,\"saidhe;\"downtheBangorroad。\"

  Ilearnedthathewasacarpenter,andthathehadbeenupthegullytoseeanacquaintance—perhapsasweetheart。WepassedalakeonourrightwhichhetoldmewascalledLlynOgwen,andthatitaboundedwithfish。Hewasveryamusing,andexpressedgreatdelightathavingfoundanEnglishmanwhocouldspeakWelsh;\"itwillbeathingtotalkof,\"saidhe,\"fortherestofmylife。\"

  Heenteredtwoorthreecottagesbythesideoftheroad,andeachtimehecameoutIheardhimsay:\"IamwithaSaiswhocanspeakCumraeg。\"Atlengthwecametoagloomy—lookingvalleytrendingduenorth;downthisvalleytheroadran,havinganenormouswallofrocksonitsrightandaprecipitoushollowontheleft,beyondwhichwasawallequallyhighastheotherone。Whenwehadproceededsomewaydowntheroadmyguidesaid。\"Youshallnowhearawonderfulecho,\"andshouting\"taw,taw,\"therocksrepliedinamannersomethinglikethebayingofhounds。\"Harktothedogs!\"exclaimedmycompanion。\"ThispassiscalledNantyrieuancgwn,thepassoftheyoungdogs,becausewhenoneshoutsitanswerswithanoiseresemblingthecryingofhounds。\"

  Thesunwassettingwhenwecametoasmallvillageatthebottomofthepass。Iaskedmycompanionitsname。\"Tyynymaes,\"hereplied,addingashestoppedbeforeasmallcottagethathewasgoingnofarther,ashedweltthere。

  \"Isthereapublic—househere?\"saidI。

  \"Thereis,\"hereplied,\"youwillfindonealittlefartherupontherighthand。\"

  \"Come,andtakesomeale,\"saidI。

  \"No,\"saidhe。

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