Ithasalsobeenthepeculiarlotofourcountrytobevisitedby
theworstkindofEnglishtravellers。Whilemenofphilosophical
spiritandcultivatedmindshavebeensentfromEnglandtoransackthe
poles，topenetratethedeserts，andtostudythemannersand
customsofbarbarousnations，withwhichshecanhavenopermanent
intercourseofprofitorpleasure；ithasbeenlefttothebroken—down
tradesman，theschemingadventurer，thewanderingmechanic，the
ManchesterandBirminghamagent，tobeheroraclesrespectingAmerica。
Fromsuchsourcessheiscontenttoreceiveherinformationrespecting
acountryinasingularstateofmoralandphysicaldevelopment；a
countryinwhichoneofthegreatestpoliticalexperimentsinthe
historyoftheworldisnowperforming；andwhichpresentsthemost
profoundandmomentousstudiestothestatesmanandthephilosopher。
ThatsuchmenshouldgiveprejudicialaccountsofAmericaisnota
matterofsurprise。Thethemesitoffersforcontemplationaretoo
vastandelevatedfortheircapacities。Thenationalcharacteris
yetinastateoffermentation；itmayhaveitsfrothinessand
sediment，butitsingredientsaresoundandwholesome；ithas
alreadygivenproofsofpowerfulandgenerousqualities；andthewhole
promisestosettledownintosomethingsubstantiallyexcellent。But
thecauseswhichareoperatingtostrengthenandennobleit，andits
dailyindicationsofadmirableproperties，arealllostuponthese
purblindobservers；whoareonlyaffectedbythelittleasperities
incidenttoitspresentsituation。Theyarecapableofjudgingonlyof
thesurfaceofthings；ofthosematterswhichcomeincontactwith
theirprivateinterestsandpersonalgratifications。Theymisssomeof
thesnugconveniencesandpettycomfortswhichbelongtoanold，
highly—finished，andover—populousstateofsociety；wheretheranks
ofusefullaborarecrowded，andmanyearnapainfulandservile
subsistencebystudyingtheverycapricesofappetiteand
self—indulgence。Theseminorcomforts，however，areall—importantin
theestimationofnarrowminds；whicheitherdonotperceive，or
willnotacknowledge，thattheyaremorethancounterbalancedamongus
bygreatandgenerallydiffusedblessings。
Theymay，perhaps，havebeendisappointedinsomeunreasonable
expectationofsuddengain。TheymayhavepicturedAmericato
themselvesanElDorado，wheregoldandsilverabounded，andthe
nativeswerelackinginsagacity；andwheretheyweretobecome
strangelyandsuddenlyrich，insomeunforeseen，buteasymanner。
Thesameweaknessofmindthatindulgesabsurdexpectationsproduces
petulanceindisappointment。Suchpersonsbecomeembitteredagainst
thecountryonfindingthatthere，aseverywhereelse，amanmust
sowbeforehecanreap；mustwinwealthbyindustryandtalent；and
mustcontendwiththecommondifficultiesofnature，andthe
shrewdnessofanintelligentandenterprisingpeople。
Perhaps，throughmistaken，orill—directedhospitality，orfrom
thepromptdispositiontocheerandcountenancethestranger，
prevalentamongmycountrymen，theymayhavebeentreatedwith
unwontedrespectinAmerica；andhavingbeenaccustomedalltheir
livestoconsiderthemselvesbelowthesurfaceofgoodsociety，and
broughtupinaservilefeelingofinferiority，theybecomearrogant
onthecommonboonofcivility：theyattributetothelowlinessof
otherstheirownelevation；andunderrateasocietywherethereareno
artificialdistinctions，andwhere，byanychance，suchindividualsas
themselvescanrisetoconsequence。
Onewouldsuppose，however，thatinformationcomingfromsuch
sources，onasubjectwherethetruthissodesirable，wouldbe
receivedwithcautionbythecensorsofthepress；thatthemotivesof
thesemen，theirveracity，theiropportunitiesofinquiryand
observation，andtheircapacitiesforjudgingcorrectly，wouldbe
rigorouslyscrutinizedbeforetheirevidencewasadmitted，insuch
sweepingextent，againstakindrednation。Theveryreverse，
however，isthecase，anditfurnishesastrikinginstanceofhuman
inconsistency。NothingcansurpassthevigilancewithwhichEnglish
criticswillexaminethecredibilityofthetravellerwhopublishesan
accountofsomedistant，andcomparativelyunimportantcountry。How
warilywilltheycomparethemeasurementsofapyramid，orthe
descriptionsofaruin；andhowsternlywilltheycensureany
inaccuracyinthesecontributionsofmerelycuriousknowledge：while
theywillreceive，witheagernessandunhesitatingfaith，thegross
misrepresentationsofcoarseandobscurewriters，concerningacountry
withwhichtheirownisplacedinthemostimportantanddelicate
relations。Nay，theywillevenmaketheseapocryphalvolumes
text—books，onwhichtoenlargewithazealandanabilityworthyofa
moregenerouscause。
Ishallnot，however，dwellonthisirksomeandhackneyedtopic；nor
shouldIhaveadvertedtoit，butfortheundueinterestapparently
takeninitbymycountrymen，andcertaininjuriouseffectswhichI
apprehendeditmightproduceuponthenationalfeeling。Weattach
toomuchconsequencetotheseattacks。Theycannotdousanyessential
injury。Thetissueofmisrepresentationsattemptedtobewovenround
usarelikecobwebswovenroundthelimbsofaninfantgiant。Our
countrycontinuallyoutgrowsthem。Onefalsehoodafteranotherfalls
offofitself。Wehavebuttoliveon，andeverydayweliveawhole
volumeofrefutation。
AllthewritersofEnglandunited，ifwecouldforamoment
supposetheirgreatmindsstoopingtosounworthyacombination，could
notconcealourrapidly—growingimportance，andmatchless
prosperity。Theycouldnotconcealthattheseareowing，notmerelyto
physicalandlocal，butalsotomoralcauses—tothepolitical
liberty，thegeneraldiffusionofknowledge，theprevalenceofsound
moralandreligiousprinciples，whichgiveforceandsustained
energytothecharacterofapeople；andwhich，infact，havebeenthe
acknowledgedandwonderfulsupportersoftheirownnationalpower
andglory。
ButwhyarewesoexquisitelyalivetotheaspersionsofEngland？
Whydowesufferourselvestobesoaffectedbythecontumelyshe
hasendeavoredtocastuponus？ItisnotintheopinionofEngland
alonethathonorlives，andreputationhasitsbeing。Theworldat
largeisthearbiterofanation’sfame；withitsthousandeyesit
witnessesanation’sdeeds，andfromtheircollectivetestimonyis
nationalgloryornationaldisgraceestablished。
Forourselves，therefore，itiscomparativelyofbutlittle
importancewhetherEnglanddoesusjusticeornot；itis，perhaps，
offarmoreimportancetoherself。Sheisinstillingangerand
resentmentintothebosomofayouthfulnation，togrowwithits
growthandstrengthenwithitsstrength。IfinAmerica，assomeofher
writersarelaboringtoconvinceher，sheishereaftertofindan
invidiousrival，andagiganticfoe，shemaythankthosevery
writersforhavingprovokedrivalshipandirritatedhostility。Every
oneknowstheall—pervadinginfluenceofliteratureatthepresent
day，andhowmuchtheopinionsandpassionsofmankindareunderits
control。Themerecontestsoftheswordaretemporary；theirwounds
arebutintheflesh，anditistheprideofthegeneroustoforgive
andforgetthem；buttheslandersofthepenpiercetotheheart；they
ranklelongestinthenoblestspirits；theydwelleverpresentin
themind，andrenderitmorbidlysensitivetothemosttrifling
collision。Itisbutseldomthatanyoneovertactproduces
hostilitiesbetweentwonations；thereexists，mostcommonly，a
previousjealousyandill—will；apredispositiontotakeoffence。
Tracethesetotheircause，andhowoftenwilltheybefoundto
originateinthemischievouseffusionsofmercenarywriters；who，
secureintheirclosets，andforignominiousbread，concoctand
circulatethevenomthatistoinflamethegenerousandthebrave。
Iamnotlayingtoomuchstressuponthispoint；foritappliesmost
emphaticallytoourparticularcase。Overnonationdoesthepress
holdamoreabsolutecontrolthanoverthepeopleofAmerica；for
theuniversaleducationofthepoorestclassesmakesevery
individualareader。ThereisnothingpublishedinEnglandonthe
subjectofourcountrythatdoesnotcirculatethrougheverypartof
it。ThereisnotacalumnydroppedfromEnglishpen，noranunworthy
sarcasmutteredbyanEnglishstatesman，thatdoesnotgotoblight
good—will，andaddtothemassoflatentresentment。Possessing，then，
asEnglanddoes，thefountain—headwhencetheliteratureofthe
languageflows，howcompletelyisitinherpower，andhowtrulyisit
herduty，tomakeitthemediumofamiableandmagnanimousfeeling—
astreamwherethetwonationsmightmeettogether，anddrinkinpeace
andkindness。Shouldshe，however，persistinturningittowaters
ofbitterness，thetimemaycomewhenshemayrepentherfolly。The
presentfriendshipofAmericamaybeofbutlittlemomenttoher；
butthefuturedestiniesofthatcountrydonotadmitofadoubt；over
thoseofEnglandtherelowersomeshadowsofuncertainty。Should，
then，adayofgloomarrive；shouldthesereversesovertakeher，
fromwhichtheproudestempireshavenotbeenexempt；shemaylook
backwithregretatherinfatuation，inrepulsingfromhersidea
nationshemighthavegrappledtoherbosom，andthusdestroyingher
onlychanceforrealfriendshipbeyondtheboundariesofherown
dominions。
ThereisageneralimpressioninEngland，thatthepeopleofthe
UnitedStatesareinimicaltotheparentcountry。Itisoneofthe
errorswhichhavebeendiligentlypropagatedbydesigningwriters。
Thereis，doubtless，considerablepoliticalhostility，andageneral
sorenessattheilliberalityoftheEnglishpress；but，generally
speaking，theprepossessionsofthepeoplearestronglyinfavorof
England。Indeed，atonetime，theyamounted，inmanypartsofthe
Union，toanabsurddegreeofbigotry。ThebarenameofEnglishmanwas
apassporttotheconfidenceandhospitalityofeveryfamily，and
toooftengaveatransientcurrencytotheworthlessandthe
ungrateful。Throughoutthecountrytherewassomethingofenthusiasm
connectedwiththeideaofEngland。Welookedtoitwithahallowed
feelingoftendernessandveneration，asthelandofourforefathers—
theaugustrepositoryofthemonumentsandantiquitiesofourrace—
thebirthplaceandmausoleumofthesagesandheroesofourpaternal
history。Afterourowncountry，therewasnoneinwhoseglorywemore
delighted—nonewhosegoodopinionweweremoreanxioustopossess—
nonetowardswhichourheartsyearnedwithsuchthrobbingsofwarm
consanguinity。Evenduringthelatewar，whenevertherewastheleast
opportunityforkindfeelingstospringforth，itwasthedelightof
thegenerousspiritsofourcountrytoshowthat，inthemidstof
hostilities，theystillkeptalivethesparksoffuturefriendship。
Isallthistobeatanend？Isthisgoldenbandofkindred
sympathies，sorarebetweennations，tobebrokenforever？—Perhaps
itisforthebest—itmaydispelanillusionwhichmighthavekeptus
inmentalvassalage；whichmighthaveinterferedoccasionallywithour
trueinterests，andpreventedthegrowthofpropernationalpride。But
itishardtogiveupthekindredtie！andtherearefeelingsdearer
thaninterest—closertotheheartthanpride—thatwillstillmakeus
castbackalookofregret，aswewanderfartherandfartherfrom
thepaternalroof，andlamentthewaywardnessoftheparentthatwould
repeltheaffectionsofthechild。
Short—sightedandinjudicious，however，astheconductofEngland
maybeinthissystemofaspersion，recriminationonourpartwouldbe
equallyill—judged。Ispeaknotofapromptandspiritedvindication
ofourcountry，northekeenestcastigationofherslanderers—butI
alludetoadispositiontoretaliateinkind；toretortsarcasm，and
inspireprejudice；whichseemstobespreadingwidelyamongour
writers。Letusguardparticularlyagainstsuchatemper，foritwould
doubletheevilinsteadofredressingthewrong。Nothingissoeasy
andinvitingastheretortofabuseandsarcasm；butitisapaltry
andanunprofitablecontest。Itisthealternativeofamorbidmind，
frettedintopetulance，ratherthanwarmedintoindignation。If
Englandiswillingtopermitthemeanjealousiesoftrade，orthe
rancorousanimositiesofpolitics，todepravetheintegrityofher
press，andpoisonthefountainofpublicopinion，letusbewareofher
example。Shemaydeemitherinteresttodiffuseerror，andengender
antipathy，forthepurposeofcheckingemigration；wehaveno
purposeofthekindtoserve。Neitherhaveweanyspiritofnational
jealousytogratify，forasyet，inallourrivalshipswithEngland，
wearetherisingandthegainingparty。Therecanbenoendto
answer，therefore，butthegratificationofresentment—amere
spiritofretaliation；andeventhatisimpotent。Ourretortsare
neverrepublishedinEngland；theyfallshort，therefore，oftheir
aim；buttheyfosteraquerulousandpeevishtemperamongourwriters；
theysourthesweetflowofourearlyliterature，andsowthornsand
bramblesamongitsblossoms。Whatisstillworse，theycirculate
throughourowncountry，and，asfarastheyhaveeffect，excite
virulentnationalprejudices。Thislastistheevilmostespeciallyto
bedeprecated。Governed，asweare，entirelybypublicopinion，the
utmostcareshouldbetakentopreservethepurityofthepublicmind。
Knowledgeispower，andtruthisknowledge；whoever，therefore，
knowinglypropagatesaprejudice，willfullysapsthefoundationofhis
country’sstrength。
Themembersofarepublic，aboveallothermen，shouldbecandidand
dispassionate。Theyare，individually，portionsofthesovereign
mindandsovereignwill，andshouldbeenabledtocometoall
questionsofnationalconcernwithcalmandunbiasedjudgments。From
thepeculiarnatureofourrelationswithEngland，wemusthavemore
frequentquestionsofadifficultanddelicatecharacterwithherthan
withanyothernation；questionsthataffectthemostacuteand
excitablefeelings；andas，intheadjustingofthese，ournational
measuresmustultimatelybedeterminedbypopularsentiment，wecannot
betooanxiouslyattentivetopurifyitfromalllatentpassionor
prepossession。
Opening，too，aswedo，anasylumforstrangersfromeveryportion
oftheearth，weshouldreceiveallwithimpartiality。Itshouldbe
ourpridetoexhibitanexampleofonenation，atleast，destitute
ofnationalantipathies，andexercisingnotmerelytheovertactsof
hospitality，butthosemorerareandnoblecourtesieswhichspring
fromtheliberalityofopinion。
Whathavewetodowithnationalprejudices？Theyaretheinveterate
diseasesofoldcountries，contractedinrudeandignorantages，
whennationsknewbutlittleofeachother，andlookedbeyondtheir
ownboundarieswithdistrustandhostility。We，onthecontrary，
havesprungintonationalexistenceinanenlightenedand
philosophicage，whenthedifferentpartsofthehabitableworld，
andthevariousbranchesofthehumanfamily，havebeen
indefatigablystudiedandmadeknowntoeachother；andweforego
theadvantagesofourbirth，ifwedonotshakeoffthenational
prejudices，aswewouldthelocalsuperstitionsoftheoldworld。
Butaboveallletusnotbeinfluencedbyanyangryfeelings，sofar
astoshutoureyestotheperceptionofwhatisreallyexcellent
andamiableintheEnglishcharacter。Weareayoungpeople，
necessarilyanimitativeone，andmusttakeourexamplesandmodels，
inagreatdegree，fromtheexistingnationsofEurope。Thereisno
countrymoreworthyofourstudythanEngland。Thespiritofher
constitutionismostanalogoustoours。Themannersofherpeople—
theirintellectualactivity—theirfreedomofopinion—theirhabitsof
thinkingonthosesubjectswhichconcernthedearestinterestsand
mostsacredcharitiesofprivatelife，areallcongenialtothe
Americancharacter；and，infact，areallintrinsicallyexcellent；for
itisinthemoralfeelingofthepeoplethatthedeepfoundations
ofBritishprosperityarelaid；andhoweverthesuperstructuremay
betime—worn，oroverrunbyabuses，theremustbesomethingsolidin
thebasis，admirableinthematerials，andstableinthestructure
ofanedifice，thatsolonghastoweredunshakenamidstthetempests
oftheworld。
Letitbetheprideofourwriters，therefore，discardingall
feelingsofirritation，anddisdainingtoretaliatetheilliberality
ofBritishauthors，tospeakoftheEnglishnationwithout
prejudice，andwithdeterminedcandor。Whiletheyrebukethe
indiscriminatingbigotrywithwhichsomeofourcountrymenadmire
andimitateeverythingEnglish，merelybecauseitisEnglish，let
themfranklypointoutwhatisreallyworthyofapprobation。Wemay
thusplaceEnglandbeforeusasaperpetualvolumeofreference，
whereinarerecordedsounddeductionsfromagesofexperience；and
whileweavoidtheerrorsandabsurditieswhichmayhavecreptinto
thepage，wemaydrawthencegoldenmaximsofpracticalwisdom，
wherewithtostrengthenandtoembellishournationalcharacter。
THEEND。
1819—20
THESKETCHBOOK
LONDONANTIQUES
byWashingtonIrving
—Idowalk
MethinkslikeGuidoVaux，withmydarklanthorn，
Stealingtosetthetowno’fire；i’th’country
IshouldbetakenforWilliamo’theWisp，
OrRobinGoodfellow。
FLETCHER。
IAMsomewhatofanantiquityhunter，andamfondofexploring
Londoninquestoftherelicsofoldtimes。Theseareprincipallyto
befoundinthedepthsofthecity，swallowedupandalmostlostin
awildernessofbrickandmortar；butderivingpoeticalandromantic
interestfromthecommonplaceprosaicworldaroundthem。Iwas
struckwithaninstanceofthekindinthecourseofarecentsummer
rambleintothecity；forthecityisonlytobeexploredtoadvantage
insummertime，whenfreefromthesmokeandfog，andrainandmud
ofwinter。Ihadbeenbuffetingforsometimeagainstthecurrentof
populationsettingthroughFleet—street。Thewarmweatherhadunstrung
mynerves，andmademesensitivetoeveryjarandjostleand
discordantsound。Thefleshwasweary，thespiritfaint，andIwas
gettingoutofhumorwiththebustlingbusythrongthroughwhichIhad
tostruggle，wheninafitofdesperationItoremywaythroughthe
crowd，plungedintoabylane，andafterpassingthroughseveral
obscurenooksandangles，emergedintoaquaintandquietcourtwitha
grassplotinthecentre，overhungbyelms，andkeptperpetually
freshandgreenbyafountainwithitssparklingjetofwater。A
studentwithbookinhandwasseatedonastonebench，partlyreading，
partlymeditatingonthemovementsoftwoorthreetrimnursery
maidswiththeirinfantcharges。
IwaslikeanArab，whohadsuddenlycomeuponanoasisamidthe
pantingsterilityofthedesert。Bydegreesthequietandcoolness
oftheplacesoothedmynervesandrefreshedmyspirit。Ipursuedmy
walk，andcame，hardbytoaveryancientchapel，withalow—browed
Saxonportalofmassiveandricharchitecture。Theinteriorwas
circularandlofty，andlightedfromabove。Aroundweremonumental
tombsofancientdate，onwhichwereextendedthemarbleeffigiesof
warriorsinarmor。Somehadthehandsdevoutlycrosseduponthe
breast；othersgraspedthepommelofthesword，menacinghostility
eveninthetomb！—whilethecrossedlegsofseveralindicated
soldiersoftheFaithwhohadbeenoncrusadestotheHolyLand。
Iwas，infact，inthechapeloftheKnightsTemplars，strangely
situatedintheverycentreofsordidtraffic；andIdonotknowa
moreimpressivelessonforthemanoftheworldthanthussuddenly
toturnasidefromthehighwayofbusymoney—seekinglife，andsit
downamongtheseshadowysepulchres，whereallistwilight，dust，
andforgetfulness。
Inasubsequenttourofobservation，Iencounteredanotherof
theserelicsofa\"foregoneworld\"lockedupintheheartofthecity。
Ihadbeenwanderingforsometimethroughdullmonotonousstreets，
destituteofanythingtostriketheeyeorexcitetheimagination，
whenIbeheldbeforemeaGothicgatewayofmoulderingantiquity。It
openedintoaspaciousquadrangleformingthecourt—yardofa
statelyGothicpile，theportalofwhichstoodinvitinglyopen。
Itwasapparentlyapublicedifice，andasIwasantiquity
hunting，Iventuredin，thoughwithdubioussteps。Meetingnoone
eithertoopposeorrebukemyintrusion，IcontinuedonuntilI
foundmyselfinagreathall，withaloftyarchedroofandoaken
gallery，allofGothicarchitecture。Atoneendofthehallwasan
enormousfireplace，withwoodensettlesoneachside；attheotherend
wasaraisedplatform，ordais，theseatofstate，abovewhichwasthe
portraitofamaninantiquegarb，withalongrobe，aruff，anda
venerablegraybeard。
Thewholeestablishmenthadanairofmonasticquietand
seclusion，andwhatgaveitamysteriouscharm，was，thatIhadnot
metwithahumanbeingsinceIhadpassedthethreshold。
Encouragedbythisloneliness，Iseatedmyselfinarecessofa
largebowwindow，whichadmittedabroadfloodofyellowsunshine，
checkeredhereandtherebytintsfrompanesofcoloredglass；while
anopencasementletinthesoftsummerair。Here，leaningmyhead
onmyhand，andmyarmonanoldoakentable，Iindulgedinasort
ofreverieaboutwhatmighthavebeentheancientusesofthis
edifice。Ithadevidentlybeenofmonasticorigin；perhapsoneof
thosecollegiateestablishmentsbuiltofyoreforthepromotionof
learning，wherethepatientmonk，intheamplesolitudeofthe
cloister，addedpagetopageandvolumetovolume，emulatinginthe
productionofhisbrainthemagnitudeofthepileheinhabited。
AsIwasseatedinthismusingmood，asmallpanelleddoorinan
archattheupperendofthehallwasopened，andanumberof
gray—headedoldmen，cladinlongblackcloaks，cameforthonebyone；
proceedinginthatmannerthroughthehall，withoututteringaword，
eachturningapalefaceonmeashepassed，anddisappearing
throughadooratthelowerend。
Iwassingularlystruckwiththeirappearance；theirblackcloaks
andantiquatedaircomportedwiththestyleofthismostvenerableand
mysteriouspile。Itwasasiftheghostsofthedepartedyears，
aboutwhichIhadbeenmusing，werepassinginreviewbeforeme。
Pleasingmyselfwithsuchfancies，Isetout，inthespiritof
romance，toexplorewhatIpicturedtomyselfarealmofshadows，
existingintheverycentreofsubstantialrealities。
Myrambleledmethroughalabyrinthofinteriorcourts，and
corridors，anddilapidatedcloisters，forthemainedificehadmany
additionsanddependencies，builtatvarioustimesandinvarious
styles；inoneopenspaceanumberofboys，whoevidentlybelonged
totheestablishment，wereattheirsports；buteverywhereI
observedthosemysteriousoldgraymeninblackmantles，sometimes
saunteringalone，sometimesconversingingroups：theyappearedto
bethepervadinggeniioftheplace。InowcalledtomindwhatIhad
readofcertaincollegesinoldtimes，wherejudicialastrology，
geomancy，necromancy，andotherforbiddenandmagicalscienceswere
taught。Wasthisanestablishmentofthekind，andwerethese
black—cloakedoldmenreallyprofessorsoftheblackart？
Thesesurmiseswerepassingthroughmymindasmyeyeglancedintoa
chamber，hungroundwithallkindsofstrangeanduncouthobjects；
implementsofsavagewarfare；strangeidolsandstuffedalligators；
bottledserpentsandmonstersdecoratedthemantelpiece；whileon
thehightesterofanold—fashionedbedsteadgrinnedahumanskull，
flankedoneachsidebyadriedcat。