Londonispagan。HefanciedthatgreatermenhadlivedinEngland，thananyofherwriters；and，infact，aboutthetimewhenthosewritersappeared，thelastofthesewerealreadygone。
Weleftthemoundinthetwilight，withthedesigntoreturnthenextmorning，andcomingbacktwomilestoourinn，weweremetbylittleshowers，andlateasitwas，menandwomenwereoutattemptingtoprotecttheirspreadwind—rows。ThegrassgrowsrankanddarkintheshoweryEngland。Attheinn，therewasonlymilkforonecupoftea。Whenwecalledformore，thegirlbroughtusthreedrops。MyfriendwasannoyedwhostoodforthecreditofanEnglishinn，andstillmore，thenextmorning，bythedog—cart，soleprocurablevehicle，inwhichweweretobesenttoWilton。Iengagedthelocalantiquary，Mr。Brown，togowithustoStonehenge，onourway，andshowuswhatheknewofthe\"astronomical\"and\"sacrificial\"
stones。Istoodonthelast，andhepointedtotheupright，orrather，inclinedstone，calledthe\"astronomical，\"andbademenoticethatitstoprangedwiththesky—line。\"Yes。\"Verywell。Now，atthesummersolstice，thesunrisesexactlyoverthetopofthatstone，and，attheDruidicaltempleatAbury，thereisalsoanastronomicalstone，inthesamerelativepositions。
Inthesilenceoftradition，thisonerelationtosciencebecomesanimportantclue；butwewerecontenttoleavetheproblem，withtherocks。Wasthisthe\"Giants’Dance\"whichMerlinbroughtfromKillaraus，inIreland，tobeUtherPendragon’smonumenttotheBritishnobleswhomHengistslaughteredhere，asGeoffreyofMonmouthrelates？orwasitaRomanwork，asInigoJonesexplainedtoKingJames；oridenticalindesignandstylewiththeEastIndiantemplesofthesun；asDaviesintheCelticResearchesmaintains？Ofallthewriters，Stukeleyisthebest。Theheroicantiquary，charmedwiththegeometricperfectionsofhisruin，connectsitwiththeoldestmonumentsandreligionoftheworld，andwiththecourageofhistribe，doesnotsticktosay，\"theDeitywhomadetheworldbytheschemeofStonehenge。\"Hefindsthatthe_cursus_（*1）onSalisburyPlainstretchesacrossthedowns，likealineoflatitudeupontheglobe，andthemeridianlineofStonehengepassesexactlythroughthemiddleofthis_cursus_。Buthereisthehighpointofthetheory：
theDruidshadthemagnet；laidtheircoursesbyit；theircardinalpointsinStonehenge，Ambresbury，andelsewhere，whichvaryalittlefromtrueeastandwest，followedthevariationsofthecompass。TheDruidswerePh；oenicians。Thenameofthemagnetis_lapisHeracleus_，andHerculeswasthegodofthePhoenicians。Hercules，inthelegend，drewhisbowatthesun，andthesun—godgavehimagoldencup，withwhichhesailedovertheocean。Whatwasthis，butacompass—box？Thiscuporlittleboat，inwhichthemagnetwasmadetofloatonwater，andsoshowthenorth，wasprobablyitsfirstform，beforeitwassuspendedonapin。Butsciencewasan_arcanum_，and，asBritainwasaPh；oeniciansecret，sotheykepttheircompassasecret，anditwaslostwiththeTyriancommerce。
Thegoldenfleece，again，ofJason，wasthecompass，——abitofloadstone，easilysupposedtobetheonlyoneintheworld，andthereforenaturallyawakeningthecupidityandambitionoftheyoungheroesofamaritimenationtojoininanexpeditiontoobtainpossessionofthiswisestone。HencethefablethattheshipArgowasloquaciousandoracular。Thereisalsosomecuriouscoincidenceinthenames。Apollodorusmakes_Magnes_thesonof_Aeolus_，whomarried_Nais_。Onhintslikethese，Stukeleybuildsagainthegrandcolonnadeintohistoricharmony，andcomputingbackwardbytheknownvariationsofthecompass，bravelyassignstheyear406beforeChrist，forthedateofthetemple。
（*1）ConnectedwithStonehengeareanavenueanda_cursus_。
Theavenueisanarrowroadofraisedearth，extending594yardsinastraightlinefromthegrandentrance，thendividingintotwobranches，whichlead，severally，toarowofbarrows；andtothe_cursus_，——anartificiallyformedflattractofground。ThisishalfamilenortheastfromStonehenge，boundedbybanksandditches，3036yardslong，by110broad。
Forthedifficultyofhandlingandcarryingstonesofthissize，thelikeisdoneinallcities，everyday，withnootheraidthanhorsepower。IchancedtoseeayearagomenatworkonthesubstructureofahouseinBowdoinSquare，inBoston，swingingablockofgraniteofthesizeofthelargestoftheStonehengecolumnswithanordinaryderrick。Themenwerecommonmasons，withpaddiestohelp，nordidtheythinktheyweredoinganythingremarkable。I
suppose，therewereasgoodmenathousandyearsago。AndwewonderhowStonehengewasbuiltandforgotten。Afterspendinghalfanhouronthespot，wesetforthinourdog—cartoverthedownsforWilton，C。notsuppressingsomethreatsandevilomensontheproprietors，forkeepingthesebroadplainsawretchedsheep—walk，whensomanythousandsofEnglishmenwerehungryandwantedlabor。ButIheardafterwardsthatitisnotaneconomytocultivatethisland，whichonlyyieldsonecroponbeingbrokenupandisthenspoiled。
WecametoWiltonandtoWiltonHall，——therenownedseatoftheEarlsofPembroke，ahouseknowntoShakspeareandMassinger，thefrequenthomeofSirPhilipSidneywherehewrotetheArcadia；whereheconversedwithLordBrooke，amanofdeepthought，andapoet，whocausedtobeengravedonhistombstone，\"HereliesFulkeGrevilleLordBrooke，thefriendofSirPhilipSidney。\"ItisnowthepropertyoftheEarlofPembroke，andtheresidenceofhisbrother，SidneyHerbert，Esq。，andisesteemedanoblespecimenoftheEnglishmanor—hall。MyfriendhadaletterfromMr。Herberttohishousekeeper，andthehousewasshown。Thestatedrawing—roomisadoublecube，30feethigh，by30feetwide，by60feetlong：theadjoiningroomisasinglecube，of30feeteveryway。Althoughtheseapartmentsandthelonglibrarywerefullofgoodfamilyportraits，Vandykesandother；andthoughthereweresomegoodpictures，andaquadranglecloisterfullofantiqueandmodernstatuary，——towhichC。，catalogueinhand，didalltoomuchjustice，——yettheeyewasstilldrawntothewindows，toamagnificentlawn，onwhichgrewthefinestcedarsinEngland。Ihadnotseenmorecharminggrounds。Wewentout，andwalkedovertheestate。WecrossedabridgebuiltbyInigoJonesoverastream，ofwhichthegardenerdidnotknowthename，（_Qu_。Alph？）watchedthedeer；climbedtothelonelysculpturedsummerhouse，onahillbackedbyawood；camedownintotheItaliangarden，andintoaFrenchpavilion，garnishedwithFrenchbusts；andsoagain，tothehouse，wherewefoundatablelaidforuswithbread，meats，peaches，grapes，andwine。
OnleavingWiltonHouse，wetookthecoachforSalisbury。TheCathedral，whichwasfinished600yearsago，hasevenaspruceandmodernair，anditsspireisthehighestinEngland。Iknownotwhy，butIhadbeenmorestruckwithoneofnofameatCoventry，whichrises300feetfromtheground，withthelightnessofamullein—plant，andnotatallimplicatedwiththechurch。SalisburyisnowesteemedtheculminationoftheGothicartinEngland，asthebuttressesarefullyunmasked，andhonestlydetailedfromthesidesofthepile。TheinterioroftheCathedralisobstructedbytheorganinthemiddle，actinglikeascreen。Iknownotwhyinrealarchitecturethehungeroftheeyeforlengthoflineissorarelygratified。Theruleofartisthatacolonnadeismorebeautifulthelongeritis，andthat_adinfinitum_。Andthenaveofachurchisseldomsolongthatitneedbedividedbyascreen。
Weloiteredinthechurch，outsidethechoir，whilstservicewassaid。Whilstwelistenedtotheorgan，myfriendremarked，themusicisgood，andyetnotquitereligious，butsomewhatasifamonkwerepantingtosomefineQueenofHeaven。C。wasunwilling，andwedidnotasktohavethechoirshownus，butreturnedtoourinn，afterseeinganotheroldchurchoftheplace。WepassedinthetrainClarendonPark，butcouldseelittlebuttheedgeofawood，thoughC。hadwishedtopaycloserattentiontothebirthplaceoftheDecreesofClarendon。AtBishopstokewestopped，andfoundMr。H。，whoreceivedusinhiscarriage，andtookustohishouseatBishopsWaltham。
OnSunday，wehadmuchdiscourseonaveryrainyday。Myfriendsasked，whethertherewereanyAmericans？——anywithanAmericanidea，——anytheoryoftherightfutureofthatcountry？
Thuschallenged，Ibethoughtmyselfneitherofcaucusesnorcongress，neitherofpresidentsnorofcabinet—ministers，norofsuchaswouldmakeofAmericaanotherEurope。Ithoughtonlyofthesimplestandpurestminds；Isaid，`Certainlyyes；——butthosewhoholditarefanaticsofadreamwhichIshouldhardlycaretorelatetoyourEnglishears，towhichitmightbeonlyridiculous，——andyetitistheonlytrue。’SoIopenedthedogmaofno—governmentandnon—resistance，andanticipatedtheobjectionsandthefun，andprocuredakindofhearingforit。Isaid，itistruethatIhaveneverseeninanycountryamanofsufficientvalortostandforthistruth，andyetitisplaintome，thatnolessvalorthanthiscancommandmyrespect。Icaneasilyseethebankruptcyofthevulgarmusket—worship，——thoughgreatmenbemusket—worshippers；——and’tiscertain，asGodliveth，thegunthatdoesnotneedanothergun，thelawofloveandjusticealone，caneffectacleanrevolution。I
fanciedthatoneortwoofmyanecdotesmadesomeimpressiononC。，andIinsisted，thatthemanifestabsurdityoftheviewtoEnglishfeasibilitycouldmakenodifferencetoagentleman；thatastooursecuretenureofourmutton—chopandspinageinLondonorinBoston，thesoulmightquoteTalleyrand，_\"Monsieur，jen’en__voispaslanecessite。\"_（*2）AsIhadthustakenintheconversationthesaint’spart，whendinnerwasannounced，C。refusedtogooutbeforeme，——\"hewasaltogethertoowicked。\"Iplantedmybackagainstthewall，andourhostwittilyrescuedusfromthedilemma，bysaying，hewasthewickedest，andwouldwalkoutfirst，thenC。followed，andI
wentlast。
（*2）_\"Mais，Monseigneur，ilfautquej’existe。\"_
OnthewaytoWinchester，whitherourhostaccompaniedusintheafternoon，myfriendsaskedmanyquestionsrespectingAmericanlandscape，forests，houses，——myhouse，forexample。Itisnoteasytoanswerthesequerieswell。ThereIthought，inAmerica，liesnaturesleeping，over—growing，almostconscious，toomuchbyhalfformaninthepicture，andsogivingacertain_tristesse_，liketherankvegetationofswampsandforestsseenatnight，steepedindewsandrains，whichitloves；andonitmanseemsnotabletomakemuchimpression。There，inthatgreatslovencontinent，inhighAlleghanypastures，inthesea—wide，sky—skirtedprairie，stillsleepsandmurmursandhidesthegreatmother，longsincedrivenawayfromthetrimhedge—rowsandover—cultivatedgardenofEngland。And，inEngland，Iamquitetoosensibleofthis。Everyoneisonhisgoodbehavior，andmustbedressedfordinneratsix。SoIputoffmyfriendswithveryinadequatedetails，asbestIcould。
JustbeforeenteringWinchester，westoppedattheChurchofSaintCross，and，afterlookingthroughthequaintantiquity，wedemandedapieceofbreadandadraughtofbeer，whichthefounder，HenrydeBlois，in1136，commandedshouldbegiventoeveryonewhoshouldaskitatthegate。Wehadboth，fromtheoldcouplewhotakecareofthechurch。Sometwentypeople，everyday，theysaid，makethesamedemand。Thishospitalityofsevenhundredyears’standingdidnothinderC。frompronouncingamaledictiononthepriestwhoreceives2000poundsayear，thatweremeantforthepoor，andspendsapittanceonthissmallbeerandcrumbs。
IntheCathedral，Iwasgratified，atleastbytheampledimensions。ThelengthoflineexceedsthatofanyotherEnglishchurch；being556feetby250inbreadthoftransept。IthinkI
preferthischurchtoallIhaveseen，exceptWestminsterandYork。
HerewasCanuteburied，andhereAlfredtheGreatwascrownedandburied，andheretheSaxonkings：and，later，inhisownchurch，WilliamofWykeham。Itisveryold：partofthecryptintowhichwewentdownandsawtheSaxonandNormanarchesoftheoldchurchonwhichthepresentstands，wasbuiltfourteenorfifteenhundredyearsago。SharonTurnersays，\"AlfredwasburiedatWinchester，intheAbbeyhehadfoundedthere，buthisremainswereremovedbyHenryI。
tothenewAbbeyinthemeadowsatHyde，onthenorthernquarterofthecity，andlaidunderthehighaltar。ThebuildingwasdestroyedattheReformation，andwhatisleftofAlfred’sbodynowliescoveredbymodernbuildings，orburiedintheruinsoftheold。\"（*
3）WilliamofWykeham’sshrinetombwasunlockedforus，andC。tookholdoftherecumbentstatue’smarblehands，andpattedthemaffectionately，forherightlyvaluesthebravemanwhobuiltWindsor，andthisCathedral，andtheSchoolhere，andNewCollegeatOxford。Butitwasgrowinglateintheafternoon。Slowlywelefttheoldhouse，andpartingwithourhost，wetookthetrainforLondon。
（*3）HistoryoftheAnglo—Saxons，I。599。
ChapterXVII_Personal_
InthesecommentsonanoldjourneynowrevisedaftersevenbusyyearsemuchchangedmenandthingsinEngland，Ihaveabstainedfromreferencetopersons，exceptinthelastchapter，andinoneortwocaseswherethefameofthepartiesseemedtohavegiventhepublicapropertyinallthatconcernedthem。Imustfurtherallowmyselfafewnotices，ifonlyasanacknowledgmentofdebtsthatcannotbepaid。Myjourneyswerecheeredbysomuchkindnessfromnewfriends，thatmyimpressionoftheislandisbrightwithagreeablememoriesbothofpublicsocietiesandofhouseholds：and，whatisnowherebetterfoundthaninEngland，acultivatedpersonfitlysurroundedbyahappyhome，\"withhonor，love，obedience，troopsoffriends，\"isofallinstitutionsthebest。AtthelandinginLiverpool，IfoundmyManchestercorrespondentawaitingme，agentlemanwhosekindreceptionwasfollowedbyatrainoffriendlyandeffectiveattentionswhichneverrestedwhilstIremainedinthecountry。Amanofsenseandofletters，theeditorofapowerfullocaljournal，headdedtosolidvirtuesaninfinitesweetnessand_bonhommie_。Thereseemedapoolofhoneyabouthisheartwhichlubricatedallhisspeechandactionwithfinejetsofmead。Anequalgoodfortuneattendedmanylateraccidentsofmyjourney，untilthesincerityofEnglishkindnessceasedtosurprise。MyvisitfellinthefortunatedayswhenMr。BancroftwastheAmericanMinisterinLondon，andathishouse，orthroughhisgoodoffices，Ihadeasyaccesstoexcellentpersonsandtoprivilegedplaces。AtthehouseofMr。Carlyle，Imetpersonseminentinsocietyandinletters。TheprivilegesoftheAthenaeumandoftheReformClubswerehospitablyopenedtome，andIfoundmuchadvantageinthecirclesofthe\"Geologic，\"the\"Antiquarian，\"andthe\"RoyalSocieties。\"EverydayinLondongavemenewopportunitiesofmeetingmenandwomenwhogivesplendortosociety。IsawRogers，Hallam，Macaulay，Milnes，Milman，BarryCornwall，Dickens，Thackeray，Tennyson，LeighHunt，D’Israeli，Helps，Wilkinson，Bailey，Kenyon，andForster：theyoungerpoets，Clough，Arnold，andPatmore；and，amongthemenofscience，RobertBrown，Owen，Sedgwick，Faraday，Buckland，Lyell，DelaBeche，Hooker，Carpenter，Babbage，andEdwardForbes。ItwasmyprivilegealsotoconversewithMissBaillie，withLadyMorgan，withMrs。Jameson，andMrs。Somerville。Afinerhospitalitymademanyprivatehousesnotlessknownanddear。Itisnotindistinguishedcirclesthatwisdomandelevatedcharactersareusuallyfound，or，iffound，notconfinedthereto；andmyrecollectionsofthebesthoursgobacktoprivateconversationsindifferentpartsofthekingdom，withpersonslittleknown。NoramIinsensibletothecourtesywhichfranklyopenedtomesomenoblemansions，ifIdonotadornmypagewiththeirnames。
AmongtheprivilegesofLondon，Irecallwithpleasuretwoorthreesignaldays，oneatKew，whereSirWilliamHookershowedmealltherichesofthevastbotanicgarden；oneattheMuseum，whereSirCharlesFellowesexplainedindetailthehistoryofhisIonictrophy—monument；andstillanother，onwhichMr。OwenaccompaniedmycountrymanMr。H。andmyselfthroughtheHunterianMuseum。
Thelikefrankhospitality，bentonrealservice，Ifoundamongthegreatandthehumble，whereverIwent；inBirmingham，inOxford，inLeicester，inNottingham，inSheffield，inManchester，inLiverpool。AtEdinburgh，throughthekindnessofDr。SamuelBrown，I
madetheacquaintanceofDeQuincey，ofLordJeffrey，ofWilson，ofMrs。Crowe，oftheMessrs。Chambers，andofamanofhighcharacterandgenius，theshortlivedpainter，DavidScott。
AtAmblesideinMarch，1848，IwasforacoupleofdaystheguestofMissMartineau，thennewlyreturnedfromherEgyptiantour。
OnSundayafternoon，IaccompaniedhertoRydalMount。AndasIhaverecordedavisittoWordsworth，manyyearsbefore，Imustnotforgetthissecondinterview。WefoundMr。Wordsworthasleeponthesofa。
Hewasatfirstsilentandindisposed，asanoldmansuddenlywaked，beforehehadendedhisnap；butsoonbecamefulloftalkontheFrenchnews。HewasnationallybitterontheFrench：bitteronScotchmen，too。NoScotchman，hesaid，canwriteEnglish。Hedetailedthetwomodels，ononeortheotherofwhichallthesentencesofthehistorianRobertsonareframed。NorcouldJeffrey，northeEdinburghReviewerswriteEnglish，norcan，whoisapesttotheEnglishtongue。Incidentallyheadded，GibboncannotwriteEnglish。TheEdinburghReviewwrotewhatwouldtellandwhatwouldsell。IthadhoweverchangedthetoneofitsliterarycriticismfromthetimewhenacertainletterwaswrittentotheeditorbyColeridge。Mrs。W。hadtheEditor’sanswerinherpossession。
Tennysonhethinksarightpoeticgenius，thoughwithsomeaffectation。HehadthoughtanelderbrotherofTennysonatfirstthebetterpoet，butmustnowreckonAlfredthetrueone……
InspeakingofIknownotwhatstyle，hesaid，\"tobesure，itwasthemanner，butthenyouknowthematteralwayscomesoutofthemanner。\"……HethoughtRioJaneirothebestplaceintheworldforagreatcapitalcity……WetalkedofEnglishnationalcharacter。Itoldhim，itwasnotcreditablethatnooneinallthecountryknewanythingofThomasTaylor，thePlatonist，whilstineveryAmericanlibraryhistranslationsarefound。Isaid，ifPlato’sRepublicwerepublishedinEnglandasanewbookto—day，doyouthinkitwouldfindanyreaders？——heconfessed，itwouldnot：
\"andyet，\"headdedafterapause，withthatcomplacencywhichneverdesertsatrue—bornEnglishman，\"andyetwehaveembodieditall。\"
HisopinionsofFrench，English，Irish，andScotch，seemedrashlyformulizedfromlittleanecdotesofwhathadbefallenhimselfandmembersofhisfamily，inadiligenceorstage—coach。Hisfacesometimeslightedup，buthisconversationwasnotmarkedbyspecialforceorelevation。YetperhapsitisahighcomplimenttothecultivationoftheEnglishgenerally，whenwefindsuchamannotdistinguished。Hehadahealthylook，withaweather—beatenface，hisfacecorrugated，especiallythelargenose。
MissMartineau，wholivednearhim，praisedhimtomenotforhispoetry，butforthriftandeconomy；forhavingaffordedtohiscountry—neighborsanexampleofamodesthousehold，wherecomfortandcultureweresecuredwithoutanydisplay。Shesaid，that，inhisearlyhousekeepingatthecottagewherehefirstlived，hewasaccustomedtoofferhisfriendsbreadandplainestfare：iftheywantedanythingmore，theymustpayhimfortheirboard。Itwastheruleofthehouse。Ireplied，thatitevincedEnglishpluckmorethananyanecdoteIknew。AgentlemanintheneighborhoodtoldthestoryofWalterScott’sstayingonceforaweekwithWordsworth，andslippingouteverydayunderpretenceofawalk，totheSwanInn，foracoldcutandporter；andonedaypassingwithWordsworththeinn，hewasbetrayedbythelandlord’saskinghimifhehadcomeforhisporter。Ofcourse，thistraitwouldhaveanotherlookinLondon，andthereyouwillhearfromdifferentliterarymen，thatWordsworthhadnopersonalfriend，thathewasnotamiable，thathewasparsimonious，&c。Landor，alwaysgenerous，says，thatheneverpraisedanybody。AgentlemaninLondonshowedmeawatchthatoncebelongedtoMilton，whoseinitialsareengravedonitsface。Hesaid，heonceshowedthistoWordsworth，whotookitinonehand，thendrewouthisownwatch，andhelditupwiththeother，beforethecompany，butnoonemakingtheexpectedremark，heputbackhisowninsilence。IdonotattachmuchimportancetothedisparagementofWordsworthamongLondonscholars。Whoreadshimwellwillknow，thatinfollowingthestrongbentofhisgenius，hewascarelessofthemany，carelessalsoofthefew，self—assuredthatheshould\"createthetastebywhichheistobeenjoyed。\"Helivedlongenoughtowitnesstherevolutionhehadwrought，and\"toseewhatheforesaw。\"Therearetorpidplacesinhismind，thereissomethinghardandsterileinhispoetry，wantofgraceandvariety，wantofduecatholicityandcosmopolitanscope：hehadconformitiestoEnglishpoliticsandtraditions；hehadegotisticpuerilitiesinthechoiceandtreatmentofhissubjects；butletussayofhim，that，aloneinhistimehetreatedthehumanmindwell，andwithanabsolutetrust。Hisadherencetohispoeticcreedrestedonrealinspirations。TheOdeonImmortalityisthehigh—water—markwhichtheintellecthasreachedinthisage。Newmeanswereemployed，andnewrealmsaddedtotheempireofthemuse，byhiscourage。
ChapterXVIII_Result_
Englandisthebestofactualnations。Itisnoidealframework，itisanoldpilebuiltindifferentages，withrepairs，additions，andmakeshifts；butyouseethepoorbestyouhavegot。
Londonistheepitomeofourtimes，andtheRomeofto—day。
Broad—frontedbroad—bottomedTeutons，theystandinsolidphalanxfoursquaretothepointsofcompass；theyconstitutethemodernworld，theyhaveearnedtheirvantage—ground，andhelditthroughagesofadversepossession。Theyarewellmarkedanddifferingfromotherleadingraces。Englandistender—hearted。Romewasnot。
Englandisnotsopublicinitsbias；privatelifeisitsplaceofhonor。Truthinprivatelife，untruthinpublic，marksthesehome—lovingmen。Theirpoliticalconductisnotdecidedbygeneralviews，butbyinternalintriguesandpersonalandfamilyinterest。
TheycannotreadilyseebeyondEngland。ThehistoryofRomeandGreece，whenwrittenbytheirscholars，degeneratesintoEnglishpartypamphlets。TheycannotseebeyondEngland，norinEnglandcantheytranscendtheinterestsofthegoverningclasses。\"Englishprinciples\"meanaprimaryregardtotheinterestsofproperty。
England，Scotland，andIrelandcombinetocheckthecolonies。
EnglandandScotlandcombinetocheckIrishmanufacturesandtrade。
EnglandralliesathometocheckScotland。InEngland，thestrongclasseschecktheweaker。Inthehomepopulationofnearthirtymillions，therearebutonemillionvoters。TheChurchpunishesdissent，punisheseducation。Downtoalateday，marriagesperformedbydissenterswereillegal。Abitterclass—legislationgivespowertothosewhoarerichenoughtobuyalaw。Thegame—lawsareaproverbofoppression。Pauperismincrustsandclogsthestate，andinhardtimesbecomeshideous。Inbadseasons，theporridgewasdiluted。Multitudeslivedmiserablybyshell—fishandsea—ware。Incities，thechildrenaretrainedtobeg，untiltheyshallbeoldenoughtorob。Menandwomenwereconvictedofpoisoningscoresofchildrenforburial—fees。InIrishdistricts，mendeterioratedinsizeandshape，thenosesunk，thegumswereexposed，withdiminishedbrainandbrutalform。DuringtheAustralianemigration，multitudeswererejectedbythecommissionersasbeingtooemaciatedforusefulcolonists。DuringtheRussianwar，fewofthosethatofferedasrecruitswerefounduptothemedicalstandard，thoughithadbeenreduced。
TheforeignpolicyofEngland，thoughambitiousandlavishofmoney，hasnotoftenbeengenerousorjust。Ithasaprincipalregardtotheinterestoftrade，checkedhoweverbythearistocraticbiasoftheambassador，whichusuallyputshiminsympathywiththecontinentalCourts。ItsanctionedthepartitionofPoland，itbetrayedGenoa，Sicily，Parga，Greece，Turkey，Rome，andHungary。
Somepublicregardstheyhave。TheyhaveabolishedslaveryintheWestIndies，andputanendtohumansacrificesintheEast。Athometheyhaveacertainstatutehospitality。Englandkeepsopendoors，asatradingcountrymust，toallnations。Itisoneoftheirfixedideas，andwrathfullysupportedbytheirlawsinunbrokensequenceforathousandyears。In_MagnaCharta_itwasordained，thatall\"merchantsshallhavesafeandsecureconducttogooutandcomeintoEngland，andtostaythere，andtopassaswellbylandasbywater，tobuyandsellbytheancientallowedcustoms，withoutanyeviltoll，exceptintimeofwar，orwhentheyshallbeofanynationatwarwithus。\"Itisastatuteandobligedhospitality，andperemptorilymaintained。Butthisshop—rulehadonemagnificenteffect。Itextendsitscoldunalterablecourtesytopoliticalexilesofeveryopinion，andisafactwhichmightgiveadditionallighttothatportionoftheplanetseenfromthefartheststar。Butthisperfunctoryhospitalityputsnosweetnessintotheirunaccommodatingmanners，nocheckonthatpuissantnationalitywhichmakestheirexistenceincompatiblewithallthatisnotEnglish。
Whatwemustsayaboutanationisasuperficialdealingwithsymptoms。Wecannotgodeepenoughintothebiographyofthespiritwhoneverthrowshimselfentireintoonehero，butdelegateshisenergyinpartsorspasmstoviciousanddefectiveindividuals。ButthewealthofthesourceisseenintheplenitudeofEnglishnature。
Whatvarietyofpowerandtalent；whatfacilityandplenteousnessofknighthood，lordship，ladyship，royalty，loyalty；whataproudchivalryisindicatedin\"Collins’sPeerage，\"througheighthundredyears！Whatdignityrestingonwhatrealityandstoutness！Whatcourageinwar，whatsinewinlabor，whatcunningworkmen，whatinventorsandengineers，whatseamenandpilots，whatclerksandscholars！Noonemanandnofewmencanrepresentthem。Itisapeopleofmyriadpersonalities。Theirmany—headednessisowingtotheadvantageouspositionofthemiddleclass，whoarealwaysthesourceoflettersandscience。Hencethevastplentyoftheiraestheticproduction。Astheyaremany—headed，sotheyaremany—nationed：theircolonizationannexesarchipelagoesandcontinents，andtheirspeechseemsdestinedtobetheuniversallanguageofmen。IhavenotedthereserveofpowerintheEnglishtemperament。Intheisland，theyneverletoutallthelengthofallthereins，thereisnoBerserkirrage，noabandonmentorecstasyofwillorintellect，likethatoftheArabsinthetimeofMahomet，orlikethatwhichintoxicatedFrancein1789。Butwhowouldseetheuncoilingofthattremendousspring，theexplosionoftheirwell—husbandedforces，mustfollowtheswarmswhichpouringnowfortwohundredyearsfromtheBritishislands，havesailed，androde，andtraded，andplanted，throughallclimates，mainlyfollowingthebeltofempire，thetemperatezones，carryingtheSaxonseed，withitsinstinctforlibertyandlaw，forartsandforthought，——
acquiringundersomeskiesamoreelectricenergythanthenativeairallows，——totheconquestoftheglobe。Theircolonialpolicy，obeyingthenecessitiesofavastempire，hasbecomeliberal。CanadaandAustraliahavebeencontentedwithsubstantialindependence。
TheyareexpiatingthewrongsofIndia，bybenefits；first，inworksfortheirrigationofthepeninsula，androadsandtelegraphs；andsecondly，intheinstructionofthepeople，toqualifythemforself—government，whentheBritishpowershallbefinallycalledhome。
Theirmindisinastateofarresteddevelopment，——adivinecripplelikeVulcan；ablind_savant_likeHuberandSanderson。Theydonotoccupythemselvesonmattersofgeneralandlastingimport，butonacorporealcivilization，ongoodsthatperishintheusing。
Buttheyreadwithgoodintent，andwhattheylearntheyincarnate。
TheEnglishmindturnseveryabstractionitcanreceiveintoaportableutensil，oraworkinginstitution。Suchistheirtenacity，andsuchtheirpracticalturn，thattheyholdalltheygain。Hencewesay，thatonlytheEnglishracecanbetrustedwithfreedom，——
freedomwhichisdouble—edgedanddangeroustoanybutthewiseandrobust。TheEnglishdesignatethekingdomsemulousoffreeinstitutions，asthesentimentalnations。Theircultureisnotanoutsidevarnish，butisthoroughandsecularinfamiliesandtherace。Theyareoppressivewiththeirtemperament，andallthemorethattheyarerefined。IhavesometimesseenthemwalkwithmycountrymenwhenIwasforcedtoallowthemeveryadvantage，andtheircompanionsseemedbagsofbones。
Thereiscramplimitationintheirhabitofthought，sleepyroutine，andatortoise’sinstincttoholdhardtothegroundwithhisclaws，lestheshouldbethrownonhisback。Thereisadragofinertiawhichresistsreformineveryshape；——law—reform，army—reform，extensionofsuffrage，Jewishfranchise，Catholicemancipation，——theabolitionofslavery，ofimpressment，penalcode，andentails。Theypraisethisdrag，undertheformula，thatitistheexcellenceoftheBritishconstitution，thatnolawcananticipatethepublicopinion。Thesepoortortoisesmustholdhard，fortheyfeelnowingssproutingattheirshoulders。Yetsomewhatdivinewarmsattheirheart，andwaitsahappierhour。Ithidesintheirsturdywill。\"Will，\"saidtheoldphilosophy，\"isthemeasureofpower，\"andpersonalityisthetokenofthisrace。_Quidvultvaldevult_。Whattheydotheydowithawill。YoucannotaccountfortheirsuccessbytheirChristianity，commerce，charter，commonlaw，Parliament，orletters，butbythecontumacioussharptonguedenergyofEnglish_naturel_，withapoiseimpossibletodisturb，whichmakesalltheseitsinstruments。Theyareslowandreticent，andarelikeadullgoodhorsewhichletseverynagpasshim，butwithwhipandspurwillrundowneveryracerinthefield。Theyarerightintheirfeeling，thoughwrongintheirspeculation。
Thefeudalsystemsurvivesinthesteepinequalityofpropertyandprivilege，inthelimitedfranchise，inthesocialbarrierswhichconfinepatronageandpromotiontoacaste，andstillmoreinthesubmissiveideaspervadingthesepeople。Thefaggingoftheschoolsisrepeatedinthesocialclasses。AnEnglishmanshowsnomercytothosebelowhiminthesocialscale，ashelooksfornonefromthoseabovehim：anyforbearancefromhissuperiorssurpriseshim，andtheysufferinhisgoodopinion。Butthefeudalsystemcanbeseenwithlesspainonlargehistoricalgrounds。Itwaspleadedinmitigationoftherottenborough，thatitworkedwell，thatsubstantialjusticewasdone。Fox，Burke，Pitt，Erskine，Wilberforce，Sheridan，Romilly，orwhatevernationalman，werebythismeanssenttoParliament，whentheirreturnbylargeconstituencieswouldhavebeendoubtful。Sonowwesay，thattherightmeasuresofEnglandarethemenitbred；
thatithasyieldedmoreablemeninfivehundredyearsthananyothernation；and，thoughwemustnotplayProvidence，andbalancethechancesofproducingtengreatmenagainstthecomfortoftenthousandmeanmen，yetretrospectivelywemaystrikethebalance，andpreferoneAlfred，oneShakspeare，oneMilton，oneSidney，oneRaleigh，oneWellington，toamillionfoolishdemocrats。
TheAmericansystemismoredemocratic，morehumane；yettheAmericanpeopledonotyieldbetterormoreablemen，ormoreinventionsorbooksorbenefits，thantheEnglish。CongressisnotwiserorbetterthanParliament。Francehasabolisheditssuffocatingold_regime_，butisnotrecentlymarkedbyanymorewisdomorvirtue。
Thepowerofperformancehasnotbeenexceeded，——thecreationofvalue。TheEnglishhavegivenimportancetoindividuals，aprincipalendandfruitofeverysociety。Everymanisallowedandencouragedtobewhatheis，andisguardedintheindulgenceofhiswhim。\"MagnaCharta，\"saidRushworth，\"issuchafellowthathewillhavenosovereign。\"Bythisgeneralactivity，andbythissacrednessofindividuals，theyhaveinsevenhundredyearsevolvedtheprinciplesoffreedom。Itisthelandofpatriots，martyrs，sages，andbards，andiftheoceanoutofwhichitemergedshouldwashitaway，itwillberememberedasanislandfamousforimmortallaws，fortheannouncementsoforiginalrightwhichmakethestonetablesofliberty。
ChapterXIX_SpeechatManchester_
AfewdaysaftermyarrivalatManchester，inNovember，1847，theManchesterAthenaeumgaveitsannualBanquetintheFree—TradeHall。Withotherguests，Iwasinvitedtobepresent，andtoaddressthecompany。Inlookingoverrecentlyanewspaper—reportofmyremarks，Iinclinetoreprintit，asfitlyexpressingthefeelingwithwhichIenteredEngland，andwhichagreeswellenoughwiththemoredeliberateresultsofbetteracquaintancerecordedintheforegoingpages。SirArchibaldAlison，thehistorian，presided，andopenedthemeetingwithaspeech。HewasfollowedbyMr。Cobden，LordBrackley，andothers，amongwhomwasMr。Cruikshank，oneofthecontributorsto\"Punch。\"Mr。Dickens’sletterofapologyforhisabsencewasread。Mr。Jerrold，whohadbeenannounced，didnotappear。OnbeingintroducedtothemeetingIsaid，——
Mr。ChairmanandGentlemen：Itispleasanttometomeetthisgreatandbrilliantcompany，anddoublypleasanttoseethefacesofsomanydistinguishedpersonsonthisplatform。ButIhaveknownallthesepersonsalready。WhenIwasathome，theywereasneartomeastheyaretoyou。TheargumentsoftheLeagueanditsleaderareknowntoallthefriendsoffreetrade。Thegayetiesandgenius，thepolitical，thesocial，theparietalwitof\"Punch\"godulyeveryfortnighttoeveryboyandgirlinBostonandNewYork。Sir，whenI
cametosea，Ifoundthe\"HistoryofEurope\"（*1）ontheship’scabintable，thepropertyofthecaptain；——asortofprogrammeorplay—billtotelltheseafaringNewEnglanderwhatheshallfindonhislandinghere。AndasforDombey，sir，thereisnolandwherepaperexiststoprinton，whereitisnotfound；nomanwhocanread，thatdoesnotreadit，and，ifhecannot，hefindssomecharitablepairofeyesthatcan，andhearsit。
（*1）BySirA。Alison。
Butthesethingsarenotformetosay；thesecompliments，thoughtrue，wouldbettercomefromonewhofeltandunderstoodthesemeritsmore。Iamnotheretoexchangecivilitieswithyou，butrathertospeakofthatwhichIamsureintereststhesegentlemenmorethantheirownpraises；ofthatwhichisgoodinholidaysandworking—days，thesameinonecenturyandinanothercentury。ThatwhichluresasolitaryAmericaninthewoodswiththewishtoseeEngland，isthemoralpeculiarityoftheSaxonrace，——itscommandingsenseofrightandwrong，——theloveanddevotiontothat，——thisistheimperialtrait，whicharmsthemwiththesceptreoftheglobe。Itisthiswhichliesatthefoundationofthataristocraticcharacter，whichcertainlywandersintostrangevagaries，sothatitsoriginisoftenlostsightof，butwhich，ifitshouldlosethis，wouldfinditselfparalyzed；andintrade，andinthemechanic’sshop，givesthathonestyinperformance，thatthoroughnessandsolidityofwork，whichisanationalcharacteristic。Thisconscienceisoneelement，andtheotheristhatloyaladhesion，thathabitoffriendship，thathomageofmantoman，runningthroughallclasses，——theelectingofworthypersonstoacertainfraternity，toactsofkindnessandwarmandstaunchsupport，fromyeartoyear，fromyouthtoage，——whichisalikelovelyandhonorabletothosewhorenderandthosewhoreceiveit；——
whichstandsinstrongcontrastwiththesuperficialattachmentsofotherraces，theirexcessivecourtesy，andshort—livedconnection。
Youwillthinkmeverypedantic，gentlemen，butholidaythoughitbe，Ihavenotthesmallestinterestinanyholiday，exceptasitcelebratesrealandnotpretendedjoys；andIthinkitjust，inthistimeofgloomandcommercialdisaster，ofafflictionandbeggaryinthesedistricts，that，ontheseveryaccountsIspeakof，youshouldnotfailtokeepyourliteraryanniversary。Iseemtohearyousay，that，forallthatiscomeandgoneyet，wewillnotreducebyonechapletoroneoakleafthebraveriesofourannualfeast。ForI
musttellyou，Iwasgiventounderstandinmychildhood，thattheBritishislandfromwhichmyforefatherscame，wasnolotus—garden，noparadiseofsereneskyandrosesandmusicandmerrimentalltheyearround，no，butacoldfoggymournfulcountry，wherenothinggrewwellintheopenair，butrobustmenandvirtuouswomen，andtheseofawonderfulfibreandendurance；thattheirbestpartswereslowlyrevealed；theirvirtuesdidnotcomeoutuntiltheyquarrelled：theydidnotstriketwelvethefirsttime；goodlovers，goodhaters，andyoucouldknowlittleaboutthemtillyouhadseenthemlong，andlittlegoodofthemtillyouhadseentheminaction；thatinprosperitytheyweremoodyanddumpish，butinadversitytheyweregrand。Isitnottrue，sir，thatthewiseancientsdidnotpraisetheshippartingwithflyingcolorsfromtheport，butonlythatbravesailerwhichcamebackwithtornsheetsandbatteredsides，striptofherbanners，buthavingriddenoutthestorm？Andso，gentlemen，IfeelinregardtothisagedEngland，withthepossessions，honorsandtrophies，andalsowiththeinfirmitiesofathousandyearsgatheringaroundher，irretrievablycommittedasshenowistomanyoldcustomswhichcannotbesuddenlychanged；presseduponbythetransitionsoftrade，andnewandallincalculablemodes，fabrics，arts，machines，andcompetingpopulations，——Iseehernotdispirited，notweak，butwellrememberingthatshehasseendarkdaysbefore；——indeedwithakindofinstinctthatsheseesalittlebetterinacloudyday，andthatinstormofbattleandcalamity，shehasasecretvigorandapulselikeacannon。Iseeherinheroldage，notdecrepit，butyoung，andstilldaringtobelieveinherpowerofenduranceandexpansion。Seeingthis，Isay，Allhail！
motherofnations，motherofheroes，withstrengthstillequaltothetime；stillwisetoentertainandswifttoexecutethepolicywhichthemindandheartofmankindrequiresinthepresenthour，andthusonlyhospitabletotheforeigner，andtrulyahometothethoughtfulandgenerouswhoareborninthesoil。Sobeit！soletitbe！Ifitbenotso，ifthecourageofEnglandgoeswiththechancesofacommercialcrisis，IwillgobacktothecapesofMassachusetts，andmyownIndianstream，andsaytomycountrymen，theoldraceareallgone，andtheelasticityandhopeofmankindmusthenceforthremainontheAlleghanyranges，ornowhere。