第4章
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  FromthefortressIreturnedtomylodging,andquicklywastakenoutoftowntobeshownaprettyvilla,andEnglishgarden.ToaNorwegianbothmighthavebeenobjectsofcuriosity;andofuse,byexcitingtothecomparisonwhichleadstoimprovement.ButwhilstI

  gazed,Iwasemployedinrestoringtheplacetonature,ortaste,bygivingitthecharacterofthesurroundingscene.Serpentinewalks,andflowering—shrubs,lookedtriflinginagrandrecessoftherooks,shadedbytoweringpines.Grovesofsmallertreesmighthavebeenshelteredunderthem,whichwouldhavemeltedintothelandscape,displayingonlytheartwhichoughttopointoutthevicinityofahumanabode,furnishedwithsomeelegance.Butfewpeoplehavesufficienttastetodiscern,thattheartofembellishingconsistsininteresting,notinastonishing.

  Christianiaiscertainlyverypleasantlysituated,andtheenvironsIpassedthrough,duringthisride,affordedmanyfineandcultivatedprospects;but,exceptingthefirstviewapproachingtoit,rarelypresentanycombinationofobjectssostrikinglynew,orpicturesque,astocommandremembrance.Adieu!

  LETTERXIV.

  Christianiaisaclean,neatcity;butithasnoneofthegracesofarchitecture,whichoughttokeeppacewiththerefiningmannersofapeople——ortheoutsideofthehousewilldisgracetheinside,givingthebeholderanideaofovergrownwealthdevoidoftaste.

  Largesquarewoodenhousesoffendtheeye,displayingmorethanGothicbarbarism.HugeGothicpiles,indeed,exhibitacharacteristicsublimity,andawildnessoffancypeculiartotheperiodwhentheywereerected;butsize,withoutgrandeurorelegance,hasanemphaticalstampofmeanness,ofpovertyofconception,whichonlyacommercialspiritcouldgive.

  Thesamethoughthasstruckme,whenIhaveenteredthemeeting—

  houseofmyrespectedfriend,Dr.Price.Iamsurprisedthatthedissenters,whohavenotlaidasideallthepompsandvanitiesoflife,shouldimagineanoblepillar,orarch,unhallowed.Whilstmenhavesenses,whateversoothesthemlendswingstodevotion;elsewhydothebeautiesofnature,whereallthatcharmthemarespreadaroundwithalavishhand,forceeventhesorrowinghearttoacknowledgethatexistenceisablessing?andthisacknowledgmentisthemostsublimehomagewecanpaytotheDeity.

  Theargumentofconvenienceisabsurd.Whowouldlabourforwealth,ifitweretoprocurenothingbutconveniences.Ifwewishtorendermankindmoralfromprinciple,wemust,Iampersuaded,giveagreaterscopetotheenjoymentsofthesensesbyblendingtastewiththem.ThishasfrequentlyoccurredtomesinceIhavebeeninthenorth,andobservedthattheresanguinecharactersalwaystakerefugeindrunkennessafterthefireofyouthisspent.

  ButIhaveflownfromNorway.Togobacktothewoodenhouses;

  farmsconstructedwithlogs,andevenlittlevillages,hereerectedinthesamesimplemanner,haveappearedtomeverypicturesque.InthemoreremotepartsIhadbeenparticularlypleasedwithmanycottagessituatedclosetoabrook,orborderingonalake,withthewholefarmcontiguous.Asthefamilyincreases,alittlemorelandiscultivated;thusthecountryisobviouslyenrichedbypopulation.

  Formerlythefarmersmightmorejustlyhavebeentermedwoodcutters.

  Butnowtheyfinditnecessarytosparethewoodsalittle,andthischangewillbeuniversallybeneficial;forwhilsttheylivedentirelybysellingthetreestheyfelled,theydidnotpaysufficientattentiontohusbandry;consequently,advancedveryslowlyinagriculturalknowledge.Necessitywillinfuturemoreandmorespurthemon;fortheground,clearedofwood,mustbecultivated,orthefarmlosesitsvalue;thereisnowaitingforfoodtillanothergenerationofpinesbegrowntomaturity.

  Thepeopleofpropertyareverycarefuloftheirtimber;and,ramblingthroughaforestnearTonsberg,belongingtotheCount,I

  havestoppedtoadmiretheappearanceofsomeofthecottagesinhabitedbyawoodman’sfamily——amanemployedtocutdownthewoodnecessaryforthehouseholdandtheestate.Alittlelawnwascleared,onwhichseveralloftytreeswereleftwhichnaturehadgrouped,whilsttheencirclingfirssportedwithwildgrace.Thedwellingwasshelteredbytheforest,noblepinesspreadingtheirbranchesovertheroof;andbeforethedooracow,goat,nag,andchildren,seemedequallycontentwiththeirlot;andifcontentmentbeallwecanattain,itis,perhaps,bestsecuredbyignorance.

  AsIhavebeenmostdelightedwiththecountrypartsofNorway,I

  wassorrytoleaveChristianiawithoutgoingfarthertothenorth,thoughtheadvancingseasonadmonishedmetodepart,aswellasthecallsofbusinessandaffection.

  JuneandJulyarethemonthstomakeatourthroughNorway;forthentheeveningsandnightsarethefinestIhaveeverseen;buttowardsthemiddleorlatterendofAugustthecloudsbegintogather,andsummerdisappearsalmostbeforeithasripenedthefruitofautumn——

  even,asitwere,slipsfromyourembraces,whilstthesatisfiedsensesseemtorestinenjoyment.

  Youwillask,perhaps,whyIwishedtogofarthernorthward.Why?

  notonlybecausethecountry,fromallIcangather,ismostromantic,aboundinginforestsandlakes,andtheairpure,butI

  haveheardmuchoftheintelligenceoftheinhabitants,substantialfarmers,whohavenoneofthatcunningtocontaminatetheirsimplicity,whichdispleasedmesomuchintheconductofthepeopleontheseacoast.Amanwhohasbeendetectedinanydishonestactcannolongerliveamongthem.Heisuniversallyshunned,andshamebecomestheseverestpunishment.

  Suchacontempthavethey,infact,foreveryspeciesoffraud,thattheywillnotallowthepeopleonthewesterncoasttobetheircountrymen;somuchdotheydespisetheartsforwhichthosetraderswholiveontherocksarenotorious.

  ThedescriptionIreceivedofthemcarriedmebacktothefablesofthegoldenage:independenceandvirtue;affluencewithoutvice;

  cultivationofmind,withoutdepravityofheart;with\"eversmilingLiberty;\"thenymphofthemountain.Iwantfaith!

  MyimaginationhurriesmeforwardtoseekanasyluminsucharetreatfromallthedisappointmentsIamthreatenedwith;butreasondragsmeback,whisperingthattheworldisstilltheworld,andmanthesamecompoundofweaknessandfolly,whomustoccasionallyexciteloveanddisgust,admirationandcontempt.Butthisdescription,thoughitseemstohavebeensketchedbyafairypencil,wasgivenmebyamanofsoundunderstanding,whosefancyseldomappearstorunawaywithhim.

  AlawinNorway,termedtheodelsright,haslatelybeenmodified,andprobablywillbeabolishedasanimpedimenttocommerce.Theheirofanestatehadthepowerofre—purchasingitattheoriginalpurchasemoney,makingallowanceforsuchimprovementsaswereabsolutelynecessary,duringthespaceoftwentyyears.Atpresenttenisthetermallowedforafterthought;andwhentheregulationwasmade,allthemenofabilitieswereinvitedtogivetheiropinionwhetheritwerebettertoabrogateormodifyit.Itiscertainlyaconvenientandsafewayofmortgagingland;yetthemostrationalmenwhomIconversedwithonthesubjectseemedconvincedthattherightwasmoreinjuriousthanbeneficialtosociety;stillifitcontributetokeepthefarmsinthefarmers’ownhands,I

  shouldbesorrytohearthatitwereabolished.

  ThearistocracyinNorway,ifwekeepclearofChristiania,isfarfrombeingformidable;anditwillrequirealongthetoenablethemerchantstoattainasufficientmoneyedinteresttoinducethemtoreinforcetheupperclassattheexpenseoftheyeomanry,withwhomtheyareusuallyconnected.

  EnglandandAmericaowetheirlibertytocommerce,whichcreatednewspeciesofpowertounderminethefeudalsystem.Butletthembewareoftheconsequence;thetyrannyofwealthisstillmoregallinganddebasingthanthatofrank.

  Farewell!Imustprepareformydeparture.

  LETTERXV.

  IleftChristianiayesterday.Theweatherwasnotveryfine,andhavingbeenalittledelayedontheroad,Ifoundthatitwastoolatetogoround,acoupleofmiles,toseethecascadenearFredericstadt,whichIhaddeterminedtovisit.Besides,asFredericstadtisafortress,itwasnecessarytoarrivetherebeforetheyshutthegate.

  Theroadalongtheriverisveryromantic,thoughtheviewsarenotgrand;andtherichesofNorway,itstimber,floatssilentlydownthestream,oftenimpededinitscoursebyislandsandlittlecataracts,theoffspring,asitwere,ofthegreatoneIhadfrequentlyhearddescribed.

  IfoundanexcellentinnatFredericstadt,andwasgratifiedbythekindattentionofthehostess,who,perceivingthatmyclotheswerewet,tookgreatpainsprocureme,asastranger,everycomfortforthenight.

  Ithadrainedveryhard,andwepassedtheferryinthedarkwithoutgettingoutofourcarriage,whichIthinkwrong,asthehorsesaresometimesunruly.Fatigueandmelancholy,however,hadmademeregardlesswhetherIwentdownoracrossthestream,andIdidnotknowthatIwaswetbeforethehostessmarkedit.Myimaginationhasneveryetseveredmefrommygriefs,andmymindhasseldombeensofreeastoallowmybodytobedelicate.

  HowIamalteredbydisappointment!WhengoingtoLisbon,theelasticityofmymindwassufficienttowardoffweariness,andmyimaginationstillcoulddipherbrushintherainbowoffancy,andsketchfuturityinglowingcolours.Now——butletmetalkofsomethingelse——willyougowithmetothecascade?

  Thecrossroadtoitwasruggedanddreary;andthoughaconsiderableextentoflandwascultivatedonallsides,yettherockswereentirelybare,whichsurprisedme,astheyweremoreonalevelwiththesurfacethananyIhadyetseen.Oninquiry,however,Ilearntthatsomeyearssinceaforesthadbeenburnt.

  Thisappearanceofdesolationwasbeyondmeasuregloomy,inspiringemotionsthatsterilityhadneverproduced.Firesofthiskindareoccasionedbythewindsuddenlyrisingwhenthefarmersareburningrootsoftrees,stalksofbeans,&c,withwhichtheymanuretheground.Thedevastationmust,indeed,beterrible,whenthis,literallyspeaking,wildfire,runsalongtheforest,flyingfromtoptotop,andcracklingamongstthebranches.Thesoil,aswellasthetrees,issweptawaybythedestructivetorrent;andthecountry,despoiledofbeautyandriches,islefttomournforages.

  Admiring,asIdo,thesenobleforests,whichseemtobiddefiancetotime,Ilookedwithpainontheridgeofrocksthatstretchedfarbeyondmyeye,formerlycrownedwiththemostbeautifulverdure.

  Ihaveoftenmentionedthegrandeur,butIfeelmyselfunequaltothetaskofconveyinganideaofthebeautyandeleganceofthescenewhenthespirytopsofthepinesareloadedwithripeningseed,andthesungivesaglowtotheirlight—greentinge,whichischangingintopurple,onetreemoreorlessadvancedcontrastedwithanother.TheprofusionwithwhichNaturehasdeckedthemwithpendanthonours,preventsallsurpriseatseeingineverycrevicesomesaplingstrugglingforexistence.Vastmassesofstonearethusencircled,androotstornupbythestormsbecomeashelterforayounggeneration.Thepineandfirwoods,leftentirelytoNature,displayanendlessvariety;andthepathsinthewoodsarenotentangledwithfallenleaves,whichareonlyinterestingwhilsttheyareflutteringbetweenlifeanddeath.Thegreycobweb—likeappearanceoftheagedpinesisamuchfinerimageofdecay;thefibreswhiteningastheylosetheirmoisture,imprisonedlifeseemstobestealingaway.Icannottellwhy,butdeath,undereveryform,appearstomelikesomethinggettingfreetoexpandinIknownotwhatelement——nay,Ifeelthatthisconsciousbeingmustbeasunfettered,havethewingsofthought,beforeitcanbehappy.

  Reachingthecascade,orrathercataract,theroaringofwhichhadalongtimeannounceditsvicinity,mysoulwashurriedbythefallsintoanewtrainofreflections.Theimpetuousdashingofthereboundingtorrentfromthedarkcavitieswhichmockedtheexploringeyeproducedanequalactivityinmymind.Mythoughtsdartedfromearthtoheaven,andIaskedmyselfwhyIwaschainedtolifeanditsmisery.Stillthetumultuousemotionsthissublimeobjectexcitedwerepleasurable;and,viewingit,mysoulrosewithreneweddignityaboveitscares.Graspingatimmortality——itseemedasimpossibletostopthecurrentofmythoughts,asofthealwaysvarying,stillthesame,torrentbeforeme;Istretchedoutmyhandtoeternity,boundingoverthedarkspeckoflifetocome.

  Weturnedwithregretfromthecascade.Onalittlehill,whichcommandsthebestviewofit,severalobelisksareerectedtocommemoratethevisitsofdifferentkings.Theappearanceoftheriveraboveandbelowthefallsisverypicturesque,theruggednessofthescenerydisappearingasthetorrentsubsidesintoapeacefulstream.ButIdidnotliketoseeanumberofsaw—millscrowdedtogetherclosetothecataracts;theydestroyedtheharmonyoftheprospect.

  Thesightofabridgeerectedacrossadeepvalley,atalittledistance,inspiredverydissimilarsensations.Itwasmostingeniouslysupportedbymast—liketrunks,juststrippedoftheirbranches;andlogs,placedoneacrosstheother,producedanappearanceequallylightandfirm,seemingalmosttobebuiltintheairwhenwewerebelowit,theheighttakingfromthemagnitudeofthesupportingtreesgivethemaslendergracefullook.

  Therearetwonobleestatesinthisneighbourhood,theproprietorsofwhichseemtohavecaughtmorethantheirportionoftheenterprisingspiritthatisgoneabroad.Manyagriculturalexperimentshavebeenmade,andthecountryappearsbetterenclosedandcultivated,yetthecottageshadnotthecomfortableaspectofthoseIhadobservednearMossandtothewestward.Manisalwaysdebasedbyservitudeofanydescription,andherethepeasantryarenotentirelyfree.Adieu!

  IalmostforgottotellyouthatIdidnotleaveNorwaywithoutmakingsomeinquiriesafterthemonsterssaidtohavebeenseeninthenorthernsea;butthoughIconversedwithseveralcaptains,I

  couldnotmeetwithonewhohadeverheardanytraditionaldescriptionofthem,muchlesshadanyoculardemonstrationoftheirexistence.Tillthefactisbetterascertained,Ishouldthinktheaccountofthemoughttobetornoutofourgeographicalgrammars.

  LETTERXVI.

  IsetoutfromFredericstadtaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoon,andexpectedtoreachStromstadbeforethenightclosedin;butthewinddyingaway,theweatherbecamesocalmthatwescarcelymadeanyperceptibleadvancestowardstheoppositecoast,thoughthemenwerefatiguedwithrowing.

  Gettingamongsttherocksandislandsasthemoonrose,andthestarsdartedforwardoutoftheclearexpanse,Iforgotthatthenightstoleonwhilstindulgingaffectionatereveries,thepoeticalfictionsofsensibility;Iwasnot,therefore,awareofthelengthoftimewehadbeentoilingtoreachStromstad.AndwhenIbegantolookaround,Ididnotperceiveanythingtoindicatethatwewereinitsneighbourhood.Sofarfromit,thatwhenIinquiredofthepilot,whospokealittleEnglish,IfoundthathewasonlyaccustomedtocoastalongtheNorwegianshore;andhadbeenonlyonceacrosstoStromstad.Buthehadbroughtwithhimafellowbetteracquainted,heassuredme,withtherocksbywhichtheyweretosteerourcourse,forwehadnotacompassonboard;yet,ashewashalfafool,Ihadlittleconfidenceinhisskill.Therewasthengreatreasontofearthatwehadlostourway,andwerestrayingamidstalabyrinthofrockswithoutaclue.

  Thiswassomethinglikeanadventure,butnotofthemostagreeablecast;besides,IwasimpatienttoarriveatStromstad,tobeabletosendforwardthatnightaboytoorderhorsesontheroadtobeready,forIwasunwillingtoremainthereadaywithouthavinganythingtodetainmefrommylittlegirl,andfromtheletterswhichIwasimpatienttogetfromyou.

  Ibegantoexpostulate,andeventoscoldthepilot,fornothavinginformedmeofhisignoranceprevioustomydeparture.Thismadehimrowwithmoreforce,andweturnedroundonerockonlytoseeanother,equallydestituteofthetokenswewereinsearchoftotelluswherewewere.Enteringalsointocreekaftercreekwhichpromisedtobetheentranceofthebaywewereseeking,weadvancedmerelytofindourselvesrunningaground.

  Thesolitarinessofthescene,asweglidedunderthedarkshadowsoftherocks,pleasedmeforawhile;butthefearofpassingthewholenightthuswanderingtoandfro,andlosingthenextday,rousedme.Ibeggedthepilottoreturntooneofthelargestislands,atthesideofwhichwehadseenaboatmoored.Aswedrewnearer,alightthroughawindowonthesummitbecameourbeacon;

  butwewerefartheroffthanIsupposed.

  Withsomedifficultythepilotgotonshore,notdistinguishingthelanding—place;andIremainedintheboat,knowingthatallthereliefwecouldexpectwasamantodirectus.Afterwaitingsometime,forthereisaninsensibilityintheverymovementsofthesepeoplethatwouldwearymorethanordinarypatience,hebroughtwithhimamanwho,assistingthemtorow,welandedatStromstadalittleafteroneinthemorning.

  Itwastoolatetosendoffaboy,butIdidnotgotobedbeforeI

  hadmadethearrangementsnecessarytoenablemetosetoutasearlyaspossible.

  Thesunrosewithsplendour.Mymindwastooactivetoallowmetoloiterlonginbed,thoughthehorsesdidnotarrivetillbetweensevenandeight.However,asIwishedtolettheboy,whowentforwardtoorderthehorses,getconsiderablythestartofme,I

  bridledinmyimpatience.

  Thisprecautionwasunavailing,forafterthethreefirstpostsI

  hadtowaittwohours,whilstthepeopleatthepost—housewent,fairandsoftly,tothefarm,tobidthembringupthehorseswhichwerecarryinginthefirst—fruitsoftheharvest.Idiscoveredherethatthesesluggishpeasantshadtheirshareofcunning.Thoughtheyhadmademepayforahorse,theboyhadgoneonfoot,andonlyarrivedhalfanhourbeforeme.Thisdisconcertedthewholearrangementoftheday;andbeingdetainedagainthreehours,I

  reluctantlydeterminedtosleepatQuistram,twopostsshortofUddervalla,whereIhadhopedtohavearrivedthatnight.

  ButwhenIreachedQuistramIfoundIcouldnotapproachthedooroftheinnformen,horses,andcarts,cows,andpigshuddledtogether.

  FromtheconcourseofpeopleIhadmetontheroadIconjecturedthattherewasafairintheneighbourhood;thiscrowdconvincedmethatitwasbuttootrue.Theboisterousmerrimentthatalmosteveryinstantproducedaquarrel,ormademedreadone,withthecloudsoftobacco,andfumesofbrandy,gaveaninfernalappearancetothescene.Therewaseverythingtodrivemeback,nothingtoexcitesympathyinarudetumultofthesenses,whichIforesawwouldendinagrossdebauch.Whatwastobedone?Nobedwastobehad,orevenaquietcornertoretiretoforamoment;allwaslostinnoise,riot,andconfusion.

  Aftersomedebatingtheypromisedmehorses,whichweretogoontoUddervalla,twostages.Irequestedsomethingtoeatfirst,nothavingdined;andthehostess,whomIhavementionedtoyoubeforeasknowinghowtotakecareofherself,broughtmeaplateoffish,forwhichshechargedarix—dollarandahalf.Thiswasmakinghaywhilstthesunshone.Iwasgladtogetoutoftheuproar,thoughnotdisposedtotravelinanincommodiousopencarriageallnight,hadIthoughtthattherewasanychanceofgettinghorses.

  QuittingQuistramImetanumberofjoyousgroups,andthoughtheeveningwasfreshmanywerestretchedonthegrasslikewearycattle;anddrunkenmenhadfallenbytheroad—side.Onarock,undertheshadeofloftytrees,alargepartyofmenandwomenhadlightedafire,cuttingdownfuelaroundtokeepitaliveallnight.

  Theyweredrinking,smoking,andlaughingwithalltheirmightandmain.Ifeltforthetreeswhosetornbranchesstrewedtheground.

  Haplessnymphs!yourhaunts,Ifear,werepollutedbymanyanunhallowedflame,thecasualburstofthemoment!

  Thehorseswentonverywell;butwhenwedrewnearthepost—housethepostillionstoppedshortandneitherthreatsnorpromisescouldprevailonhimtogoforward.HeevenbegantohowlandweepwhenI

  insistedonhiskeepinghisword.Nothing,indeed,canequalthestupidobstinacyofsomeofthesehalf—alivebeings,whoseemtohavebeenmadebyPrometheuswhenthefirehestolefromHeavenwassoexhaustedthathecouldonlyspareasparktogivelife,notanimation,totheinertclay.

  Itwassometimebeforewecouldrouseanybody;and,asIexpected,horses,weweretold,couldnotbehadinlessthanfourorfivehours.Iagainattemptedtobribethechurlishbrutewhobroughtusthere,butIdiscoveredthat,inspiteofthecourteoushostess’spromises,hehadreceivedordersnottogoanyfather.

  AstherewasnoremedyIentered,andwasalmostdrivenbackbythestench——asofterphrasewouldnothaveconveyedanideaofthehotvapourthatissuedfromanapartmentinwhichsomeeightortenpeopleweresleeping,nottoreckonthecatsanddogsstretchedonthefloor.Twoorthreeofthemenorwomenwereonthebenches,othersonoldchests;andonefigurestartedhalfoutofatrunktolookatme,whommighthavetakenforaghost,hadthechemisebeenwhite,tocontrastwiththesallowvisage.ButthecostumeofapparitionsnotbeingpreservedIpassed,nothingdreading,exceptingtheeffluvia,warilyamongstthepots,pans,milk—pails,andwashing—tubs.AfterscalingaruinousstaircaseIwasshownabed—chamber.Thebeddidnotinvitemetoenter;opening,therefore,thewindow,andtakingsomecleantowelsoutofmynight—

  sack,Ispreadthemoverthecoverlid,onwhichtiredNaturefoundrepose,inspiteofthepreviousdisgust.

  Withthegreyofthemornthebirdsawokeme;anddescendingtoinquireforthehorses,IhastenedthroughtheapartmentIhavealreadydescribed,notwishingtoassociatetheideaofapigstyewiththatofahumandwelling.

  Idonotnowwonderthatthegirlslosetheirfinecomplexionsatsuchanearlyage,orthatlovehereismerelyanappetitetofulfilthemaindesignofNature,neverenlivenedbyeitheraffectionorsentiment.

  Forafewpostswefoundthehorseswaiting;butafterwardsIwasretarded,asbefore,bythepeasants,who,takingadvantageofmyignoranceofthelanguage,mademepayforthefourthhorsethatoughttohavegoneforwardtohavetheothersinreadiness,thoughithadneverbeensent.Iwasparticularlyimpatientatthelastpost,asIlongedtoassuremyselfthatmychildwaswell.

  Myimpatience,however,didnotpreventmyenjoyingthejourney.I

  hadsixweeksbeforepassedoverthesameground;stillithadsufficientnoveltytoattractmyattention,andbeguile,ifnotbanish,thesorrowthathadtakenupitsabodeinmyheart.HowinterestingarethevariedbeautiesofNature,andwhatpeculiarcharmscharacteriseeachseason!Thepurplehuewhichtheheathnowassumedgaveitadegreeofrichnessthatalmostexceededthelustreoftheyounggreenofspring,andharmonisedexquisitelywiththeraysoftheripeningcorn.Theweatherwasuninterruptedlyfine,andthepeoplebusyinthefieldscuttingdownthecorn,orbindingupthesheaves,continuallyvariedtheprospect.Therocks,itistrue,wereunusuallyruggedanddreary;yetastheroadrunsforaconsiderablewaybythesideofafineriver,withextendedpasturesontheotherside,theimageofsterilitywasnotthepredominantobject,thoughthecottageslookedstillmoremiserable,afterhavingseentheNorwegianfarms.Thetreeslikewiseappearedofmegrowthofyesterday,comparedwiththoseNestorsoftheforestI

  havefrequentlymentioned.Thewomenandchildrenwerecuttingoffbranchesfromthebeech,birch,oak,&c,andleavingthemtodry.

  Thiswayofhelpingouttheirfodderinjuresthetrees.Butthewintersaresolongthatthepoorcannotaffordtolayinasufficientstockofhay.Bysuchmeanstheyjustkeeplifeinthepoorcows,forlittlemilkcanbeexpectedwhentheyaresomiserablyfed.

  ItwasSaturday,andtheeveningwasuncommonlyserene.InthevillagesIeverywheresawpreparationsforSunday;andIpassedbyalittlecarloadedwithrye,thatpresented,forthepencilandheart,thesweetestpictureofaharvesthomeIhadeverbeheld.A

  littlegirlwasmounteda—straddleonashaggyhorse,brandishingastickoveritshead;thefatherwaswalkingatthesideofthecarwithachildinhisarms,whomusthavecometomeethimwithtotteringsteps;thelittlecreaturewasstretchingoutitsarmstoclingroundhisneck;andaboy,justabovepetticoats,waslabouringhardwithaforkbehindtokeepthesheavesfromfalling.

  Myeyesfollowedthemtothecottage,andaninvoluntarysighwhisperedtomyheartthatIenviedthemother,muchasIdislikecooking,whowaspreparingtheirpottage.Iwasreturningtomybabe,whomayneverexperienceafather’scareortenderness.Thebosomthatnurturedherheavedwithapangatthethoughtwhichonlyanunhappymothercouldfeel.

  Adieu!

  LETTERXVII.

  IwasunwillingtoleaveGothenburgwithoutvisitingTrolhaettae.I

  wishednotonlytoseethecascade,buttoobservetheprogressofthestupendousattempttoformacanalthroughtherocks,totheextentofanEnglishmileandahalf.

  Thisworkiscarriedonbyacompany,whoemploydailyninehundredmen;fiveyearswasthetimementionedintheproposalsaddressedtothepublicasnecessaryforthecompletion.Amuchmoreconsiderablesumthantheplanrequireshasbeensubscribed,forwhichthereiseveryreasontosupposethepromoterswillreceiveampleinterest.

  TheDanessurveytheprogressofthisworkwithajealouseye,asitisprincipallyundertakentogetclearoftheSoundduty.

  ArrivedatTrolhaettae,Imustownthatthefirstviewofthecascadedisappointedme;andthesightoftheworks,astheyadvanced,thoughagrandproofofhumanindustry,wasnotcalculatedtowarmthefancy.I,however,wanderedabout;andatlastcomingtotheconfluxofthevariouscataractsrushingfromdifferentfalls,strugglingwiththehugemassesofrock,andreboundingfromtheprofoundcavities,Iimmediatelyretracted,acknowledgingthatitwasindeedagrandobject.Alittleislandstoodinthemidst,coveredwithfirs,which,bydividingthetorrent,rendereditmorepicturesque;onehalfappearingtoissuefromadarkcavern,thatfancymighteasilyimagineavastfountainthrowingupitswatersfromtheverycentreoftheearth.

  IgazedIknownothowlong,stunnedwiththenoise,andgrowinggiddywithonlylookingatthenever—ceasingtumultuousmotion,I

  listened,scarcelyconsciouswhereIwas,whenIobservedaboy,halfobscuredbythesparklingfoam,fishingundertheimpendingrockontheotherside.HowhehaddescendedIcouldnotperceive;

  nothinglikehumanfootstepsappeared,andthehorrificcragsseemedtobiddefianceeventothegoat’sactivity.Itlookedlikeanabodeonlyfitfortheeagle,thoughinitscrevicessomepinesdarteduptheirspiralheads;buttheyonlygrewnearthecascade,everywhereelsesterilityitselfreignedwithdrearygrandeur;forthehugegreymassyrocks,whichprobablyhadbeentornasunderbysomedreadfulconvulsionofnature,hadnoteventheirfirstcoveringofalittlecleavingmoss.Thereweresomanyappearancestoexcitetheideaofchaos,that,insteadofadmiringthecanalandtheworks,greatastheyaretermed,andlittleastheyappear,I

  couldnothelpregrettingthatsuchanoblescenehadnotbeenleftinallitssolitarysublimity.Amidsttheawfulroaringoftheimpetuoustorrents,thenoiseofhumaninstrumentsandthebustleofworkmen,eventheblowingupoftherockswhengrandmassestrembledinthedarkenedair,onlyresembledtheinsignificantsportofchildren.

  Onefallofwater,partlymadebyart,whentheywereattemptingtoconstructsluices,hadanuncommonlygrandeffect;thewaterprecipitateditselfwithimmensevelocitydownaperpendicular,atleastfiftyorsixtyyards,intoagulf,soconcealedbythefoamastogivefullplaytothefancy.Therewasacontinualuproar.I

  stoodonarocktoobserveit,akindofbridgeformedbynature,nearlyonalevelwiththecommencementofthefall.AftermusingbyitalongtimeIturnedtowardstheotherside,andsawagentlestreamstraycalmlyout.IshouldhaveconcludedthatithadnocommunicationwiththetorrenthadInotseenahugelogthatfellheadlongdownthecascadestealpeacefullyintothepurlingstream.

  Iretiredfromthesewildsceneswithregrettoamiserableinn,andnextmorningreturnedtoGothenburg,toprepareformyjourneytoCopenhagen.

  IwassorrytoleaveGothenburgwithouttravellingfartherintoSweden,yetIimagineIshouldonlyhaveseenaromanticcountrythinlyinhabited,andtheseinhabitantsstrugglingwithpoverty.

  TheNorwegianpeasantry,mostlyindependent,havearoughkindoffranknessintheirmanner;buttheSwedish,renderedmoreabjectbymisery,haveadegreeofpolitenessintheiraddresswhich,thoughitmaysometimesborderoninsincerity,isoftenertheeffectofabrokenspirit,rathersoftenedthandegradedbywretchedness.

  InNorwaytherearenonotesincirculationoflessvaluethanaSwedishrix—dollar.Asmallsilvercoin,commonlynotworthmorethanapenny,andnevermorethantwopence,servesforchange;butinSwedentheyhavenotesaslowassixpence.Ineversawanysilverpiecesthere,andcouldnotwithoutdifficulty,andgivingapremium,obtainthevalueofarix—dollarinalargecoppercointogiveawayontheroadtothepoorwhoopenthegates.

  AsanotherproofofthepovertyofSweden,Ioughttomentionthatforeignmerchantswhohaveacquiredafortunethereareobligedtodepositthesixthpartwhentheyleavethekingdom.Thislaw,youmaysuppose,isfrequentlyevaded.

  Infact,thelawshere,aswellasinNorway,aresorelaxedthattheyratherfavourthanrestrainknavery.

  WhilstIwasatGothenburg,amanwhohadbeenconfinedforbreakingopenhismaster’sdeskandrunningawaywithfiveorsixthousandrix—dollars,wasonlysentencedtofortydays’confinementonbreadandwater;andthisslightpunishmenthisrelationsrenderednugatorybysupplyinghimwithmoresavouryfood.

  TheSwedesareingeneralattachedtotheirfamilies,yetadivorcemaybeobtainedbyeitherpartyonprovingtheinfidelityoftheotheroracknowledgingitthemselves.Thewomendonotoftenrecurtothisequalprivilege,fortheyeitherretaliateontheirhusbandsbyfollowingtheirowndevicesorsinkintothemerestdomesticdrudges,worndownbytyrannytoservilesubmission.DonottermmesevereifIadd,thatafteryouthisflownthehusbandbecomesasot,andthewifeamusesherselfbyscoldingherservants.Infact,whatistobeexpectedinanycountrywheretasteandcultivationofminddonotsupplytheplaceofyouthfulbeautyandanimalspirits?

  Affectionrequiresafirmerfoundationthansympathy,andfewpeoplehaveaprincipleofactionsufficientlystabletoproducerectitudeoffeeling;forinspiteofalltheargumentsIhaveheardtojustifydeviationsfromduty,Iampersuadedthateventhemostspontaneoussensationsaremoreunderthedirectionofprinciplethanweakpeoplearewillingtoallow.

  Butadieutomoralising.IhavebeenwritingtheselastsheetsataninninElsineur,whereIamwaitingforhorses;andastheyarenotyetready,IwillgiveyouashortaccountofmyjourneyfromGothenburg,forIsetoutthemorningafterIreturnedfromTrolhaettae.

  Thecountryduringthefirstday’sjourneypresentedamostbarrenappearance,asrocky,yetnotsopicturesqueasNorway,becauseonadiminutivescale.WestoppedtosleepatatolerableinninFalckersberg,adecentlittletown.

  Thenextdaybeechesandoaksbegantogracetheprospects,theseaeverynowandthenappearingtogivethemdignity.Icouldnotavoidobservingalso,thateveninthispartofSweden,oneofthemoststerile,asIwasinformed,therewasmoregroundundercultivationthaninNorway.Plainsofvariedcropsstretchedouttoaconsiderableextent,andslopeddowntotheshore,nolongerterrific.And,asfarasIcouldjudge,fromglancingmyeyeoverthecountryaswedrovealong,agriculturewasinamoreadvancedstate,thoughinthehabitationsagreaterappearanceofpovertystillremained.Thecottages,indeed,oftenlookedmostuncomfortable,butneversomiserableasthoseIhadremarkedontheroadtoStromstad,andthetownswereequal,ifnotsuperior,tomanyofthelittletownsinWales,orsomeIhavepassedthroughinmywayfromCalaistoParis.

  Theinnsasweadvancedwerenottobecomplainedof,unlessIhadalwaysthoughtofEngland.Thepeoplewerecivil,andmuchmoremoderateintheirdemandsthantheNorwegians,particularlytothewestward,wheretheyboldlychargeforwhatyouneverhad,andseemtoconsideryou,astheydoawreck,ifnotaslawfulprey,yetasaluckychance,whichtheyoughtnottoneglecttoseize.

  TheprospectofElsineur,aswepassedtheSound,waspleasant.I

  gavethreerix—dollarsformyboat,includingsomethingtodrink.I

  mentionthesum,becausetheyimposeonstrangers.

  Adieu!tillIarriveatCopenhagen.

  LETTERXVIII.——COPENHAGEN.

  ThedistancefromElsineurtoCopenhagenistwenty—twomiles;theroadisverygood,overaflatcountrydiversifiedwithwood,mostlybeech,anddecentmansions.Thereappearedtobeagreatquantityofcornland,andthesoillookedmuchmorefertilethanitisingeneralsonearthesea.Therisinggrounds,indeed,wereveryfew,andaroundCopenhagenitisaperfectplain;ofcoursehasnothingtorecommenditbutcultivation,notdecorations.IfIsaythatthehousesdidnotdisgustme,ItellyouallIrememberofthem,forI

  cannotrecollectanypleasurablesensationstheyexcited,orthatanyobject,producedbynatureorart,tookmeoutofmyself.Theviewofthecity,aswedrewnear,wasrathergrand,butwithoutanystrikingfeaturetointeresttheimagination,exceptingthetreeswhichshadethefootpaths.

  JustbeforeIreachedCopenhagenIsawanumberoftentsonawideplain,andsupposedthattherageforencampmentshadreachedthiscity;butIsoondiscoveredthattheyweretheasylumofmanyofthepoorfamilieswhohadbeendrivenoutoftheirhabitationsbythelatefire.

  Enteringsoonafter,Ipassedamongstthedustandrubbishithadleft,affrightedbyviewingtheextentofthedevastation,foratleastaquarterofthecityhadbeendestroyed.Therewaslittleintheappearanceoffallenbricksandstacksofchimneystoalluretheimaginationintosoothingmelancholyreveries;nothingtoattracttheeyeoftaste,butmuchtoafflictthebenevolentheart.Thedepredationsoftimehavealwayssomethinginthemtoemploythefancy,orleadtomusingonsubjectswhich,withdrawingthemindfromobjectsofsense,seemtogiveitnewdignity;buthereIwastreadingonliveashes.Thesuffererswerestillunderthepressureofthemiseryoccasionedbythisdreadfulconflagration.Icouldnottakerefugeinthethought:theysuffered,buttheyarenomore!areflectionIfrequentlysummontocalmmymindwhensympathyrisestoanguish.Ithereforedesiredthedrivertohastentothehotelrecommendedtome,thatImightavertmyeyesandsnapthetrainofthinkingwhichhadsentmeintoallthecornersofthecityinsearchofhouselessheads.

  ThismorningIhavebeenwalkingroundthetown,tillIamwearyofobservingtheravages.IhadoftenheardtheDanes,eventhosewhohadseenParisandLondon,speakofCopenhagenwithrapture.

  CertainlyIhaveseenitinaverydisadvantageouslight,someofthebeststreetshavingbeenburnt,andthewholeplacethrownintoconfusion.Stilltheutmostthatcan,orcouldever,Ibelieve,havebeensaidinitspraise,mightbecomprisedinafewwords.

  Thestreetsareopen,andmanyofthehouseslarge;butIsawnothingtorousetheideaofeleganceorgrandeur,ifIexceptthecircuswherethekingandprinceroyalreside.

  Thepalace,whichwasconsumedabouttwoyearsago,musthavebeenahandsome,spaciousbuilding;thestone—workisstillstanding,andagreatnumberofthepoor,duringthelatefire,tookrefugeinitsruinstilltheycouldfindsomeotherabode.Bedswerethrownonthelanding—placesofthegrandstaircase,wherewholefamiliescreptfromthecold,andeverylittlenookisboardedupasaretreatforsomepoorcreaturesdeprivedoftheirhome.Atpresentaroofmaybesufficienttoshelterthemfromthenightair;butastheseasonadvances,theextentofthecalamitywillbemoreseverelyfelt,Ifear,thoughtheexertionsonthepartofGovernmentareveryconsiderable.Privatecharityhasalso,nodoubt,donemuchtoalleviatethemiserywhichobtrudesitselfateveryturn;still,publicspiritappearstometobehardlyalivehere.Haditexisted,theconflagrationmighthavebeensmotheredinthebeginning,asitwasatlast,bytearingdownseveralhousesbeforetheflameshadreachedthem.Tothistheinhabitantswouldnotconsent;andtheprinceroyalnothavingsufficientenergyofcharactertoknowwhenheoughttobeabsolute,calmlyletthempursuetheirowncourse,tillthewholecityseemedtobethreatenedwithdestruction.Adhering,withpuerilescrupulosity,tothelawwhichhehasimposedonhimself,ofactingexactlyright,hedidwrongbyidlylamentingwhilsthemarkedtheprogressofamischiefthatonedecidedstepwouldhavestopped.Hewasafterwardsobligedtoresorttoviolentmeasures;butthen,whocouldblamehim?And,toavoidcensure,whatsacrificesarenotmadebyweakminds?

  Agentlemanwhowasawitnessofthesceneassuredme,likewise,thatifthepeopleofpropertyhadtakenhalfasmuchpainstoextinguishthefireastopreservetheirvaluablesandfurniture,itwouldsoonhavebeengotunder.Buttheywhowerenotimmediatelyindangerdidnotexertthemselvessufficiently,tillfear,likeanelectricalshock,rousedalltheinhabitantstoasenseofthegeneralevil.Eventhefire—engineswereoutoforder,thoughtheburningofthepalaceoughttohaveadmonishedthemofthenecessityofkeepingtheminconstantrepair.ButthiskindofindolencerespectingwhatdoesnotimmediatelyconcernthemseemstocharacterisetheDanes.Asluggishconcentrationinthemselvesmakesthemsocarefultopreservetheirproperty,thattheywillnotventureonanyenterprisetoincreaseitinwhichthereisashadowofhazard.

  ConsideringCopenhagenasthecapitalofDenmarkandNorway,IwassurprisednottoseesomuchindustryortasteasinChristiania.

  Indeed,fromeverythingIhavehadanopportunityofobserving,theDanesarethepeoplewhohavemadethefewestsacrificestothegraces.

  Themenofbusinessaredomestictyrants,coldlyimmersedintheirownaffairs,andsoignorantofthestateofothercountries,thattheydogmaticallyassertthatDenmarkisthehappiestcountryintheworld;thePrinceRoyalthebestofallpossibleprinces;andCountBernstorffthewisestofministers.

  Asforthewomen,theyaresimplynotablehousewives;withoutaccomplishmentsoranyofthecharmsthatadornmoreadvancedsociallife.Thistotalignorancemayenablethemtosavesomethingintheirkitchens,butitisfarfromrenderingthembetterparents.

  Onthecontrary,thechildrenarespoiled,astheyusuallyarewhenlefttothecareofweak,indulgentmothers,whohavingnoprincipleofactiontoregulatetheirfeelings,becometheslavesofinfants,enfeeblingbothbodyandmindbyfalsetenderness.

  Iam,perhaps,alittleprejudiced,asIwritefromtheimpressionofthemoment;forIhavebeentormentedto—daybythepresenceofunrulychildren,andmadeangrybysomeinvectivesthrownoutagainstthematernalcharacteroftheunfortunateMatilda.Shewascensured,withthemostcruelinsinuation,forhermanagementofherson,though,fromwhatIcouldgather,shegaveproofsofgoodsenseaswellastendernessinherattentiontohim.Sheusedtobathehimherselfeverymorning;insistedonhisbeinglooselyclad;andwouldnotpermithisattendantstoinjurehisdigestionbyhumouringhisappetite.Shewasequallycarefultopreventhisacquiringhaughtyairs,andplayingthetyrantinleading—strings.TheQueenDowagerwouldnotpermithertosucklehim;butthenextchildbeingadaughter,andnottheHeir—ApparentoftheCrown,lessoppositionwasmadetoherdischargingthedutyofamother.

  PoorMatilda!thouhasthauntedmeeversincemayarrival;andtheviewIhavehadofthemannersofthecountry,excitingmysympathy,hasincreasedmyrespectforthymemory.

  Iamnowfullyconvincedthatshewasthevictimofthepartyshedisplaced,whowouldhaveoverlookedorencouragedherattachment,hadnotherlover,aimingatbeinguseful,attemptedtooverturnsomeestablishedabusesbeforethepeople,ripeforthechange,hadsufficientspirittosupporthimwhenstrugglingintheirbehalf.

  SuchindeedwastheasperitysharpenedagainstherthatIhaveheardher,evenaftersomanyyearshaveelapsed,chargedwithlicentiousness,notonlyforendeavouringtorenderthepublicamusementsmoreelegant,butforherverycharities,becausesheerected,amongstotherinstitutions,ahospitaltoreceivefoundlings.Disgustedwithmanycustomswhichpassforvirtues,thoughtheyarenothingmorethanobservancesofforms,oftenattheexpenseoftruth,sheprobablyranintoanerrorcommontoinnovators,inwishingtodoimmediatelywhatcanonlybedonebytime.

  ManyverycogentreasonshavebeenurgedbyherfriendstoprovethatheraffectionforStruenseewasnevercarriedtothelengthallegedagainstherbythosewhofearedherinfluence.Bethatasitmayshecertainlywasnoawomanofgallantry,andifshehadanattachmentforhimitdidnotdisgraceherheartorunderstanding,thekingbeinganotoriousdebaucheeandanidiotintothebargain.

  Astheking’sconducthadalwaysbeendirectedbysomefavourite,theyalsoendeavouredtogovernhim,fromaprincipleofself—

  preservationaswellasalaudableambition;but,notawareoftheprejudicestheyhadtoencounter,thesystemtheyadopteddisplayedmorebenevolenceofheartthansoundnessofjudgment.Astothecharge,stillbelieved,oftheirgivingtheKingdrugstoinjurehisfaculties,itistooabsurdtoberefuted.Theiroppressorshadbetterhaveaccusedthemofdabblingintheblackart,forthepotentspellstillkeepshiswitsinbondage.

  IcannotdescribetoyoutheeffectithadonmetoseethispuppetofamonarchmovedbythestringswhichCountBernstorffholdsfast;

  sit,withvacanteye,erect,receivingthehomageofcourtierswhomockhimwithashowofrespect.Heis,infact,merelyamachineofstate,tosubscribethenameofakingtotheactsoftheGovernment,which,toavoiddanger,havenovalueunlesscountersignedbythePrinceRoyal;forheisallowedtobeabsolutelyaimidiot,exceptingthatnowandthenanobservationortrickescapeshim,whichlooksmorelikemadnessthanimbecility.

  Whatafarceislife.Thiseffigyofmajestyisallowedtoburndowntothesocket,whilstthehaplessMatildawashurriedintoanuntimelygrave.

  \"Asfliestowantonboys,arewetothegods;

  Theykillusfortheirsport.\"

  Adieu!

  LETTERXIX.

  BusinesshavingobligedmetogoafewmilesoutoftownthismorningIwassurprisedatmeetingacrowdofpeopleofeverydescription,andinquiringthecauseofaservant,whospokeFrench,Iwasinformedthatamanhadbeenexecutedtwohoursbefore,andthebodyafterwardsburnt.Icouldnothelplookingwithhorroraround——thefieldslosttheirverdure——andIturnedwithdisgustfromthewell—dressedwomenwhowerereturningwiththeirchildrenfromthissight.Whataspectacleforhumanity!Theseeingsuchaflockofidlegazersplungedmeintoatrainofreflectionsontheperniciouseffectsproducedbyfalsenotionsofjustice.AndIampersuadedthattillcapitalpunishmentsareentirelyabolishedexecutionsoughttohaveeveryappearanceofhorrorgiventothem,insteadofbeing,astheyarenow,asceneofamusementforthegapingcrowd,wheresympathyisquicklyeffacedbycuriosity.

  Ihavealwaysbeenofopinionthattheallowingactorstodieinthepresenceoftheaudiencehasanimmoraltendency,buttriflingwhencomparedwiththeferocityacquiredbyviewingtherealityasashow;foritseemstomethatinallcountriesthecommonpeoplegotoexecutionstoseehowthepoorwretchplayshispart,ratherthantocommiseratehisfate,muchlesstothinkofthebreachofmoralitywhichhasbroughthimtosuchadeplorableend.

  Consequentlyexecutions,farfrombeingusefulexamplestothesurvivors,have,Iampersuaded,aquitecontraryeffect,byhardeningthehearttheyoughttoterrify.Besidesthefearofanignominiousdeath,Ibelieve,neverdeferredanyonefromthecommissionofacrime,because,incommittingit,themindisrousedtoactivityaboutpresentcircumstances.Itisagameathazard,atwhichallexpecttheturnofthedieintheirownfavour,neverreflectingonthechanceofruintillitcomes.Infact,fromwhatIsawinthefortressesofNorway,Iammoreandmoreconvincedthatthesameenergyofcharacterwhichrendersamanadaringvillainwouldhaverenderedhimusefultosociety,hadthatsocietybeenwellorganised.Whenastrongmindisnotdisciplinedbycultivationitisasenseofinjusticethatrendersitunjust.

  Executions,however,occurveryrarelyatCopenhagen;fortimidity,ratherthanclemency,palsiesalltheoperationsofthepresentGovernment.Themalefactorwhodiedthismorningwouldnot,probably,havebeenpunishedwithdeathatanyotherperiod;butanincendiaryexcitesuniversalexecration;andasthegreaterpartoftheinhabitantsarestilldistressedbythelateconflagration,anexamplewasthoughtabsolutelynecessary;though,fromwhatIcangather,thefirewasaccidental.

  Not,butthatIhaveveryseriouslybeeninformed,thatcombustiblematerialswereplacedatproperdistance,bytheemissariesofMr.

  Pitt;and,tocorroboratethefact,manypeopleinsistthattheflamesburstoutatonceindifferentpartsofthecity;notallowingthewindtohaveanyhandinit.Somuchfortheplot.

  Butthefabricatorsofplotsinallcountriesbuildtheirconjecturesonthe\"baselessfabricofavision;\"anditseemsevenasortofpoeticaljustice,thatwhilstthisMinisteriscrushingathomeplotsofhisownconjuringup,ontheContinent,andinthenorth,heshould,withaslittlefoundation,beaccusedofwishingtosettheworldonfire.

  Iforgottomentiontoyou,thatIwasinformed,byamanofveracity,thattwopersonscametothestaketodrinkaglassofthecriminal’sblood,asaninfallibleremedyfortheapoplexy.AndwhenIanimadvertedinthecompany,whereitwasmentioned,onsuchahorribleviolationofnature,aDanishladyreprovedmeveryseverely,askinghowIknewthatitwasnotacureforthedisease?

  adding,thateveryattemptwasjustifiableinsearchofhealth.I

  didnot,youmayimagine,enterintoanargumentwithapersontheslaveofsuchagrossprejudice.AndIalludetoitnotonlyasatraitoftheignoranceofthepeople,buttocensuretheGovernmentfornotpreventingscenesthatthrowanodiumonthehumanrace.

  EmpiricismisnotpeculiartoDenmark;andIknownowayofrootingitout,thoughitbearemnantofexplodedwitchcraft,tilltheacquiringageneralknowledgeofthecomponentpartsofthehumanframebecomesapartofpubliceducation.

  Sincethefire,theinhabitantshavebeenveryassiduouslyemployedinsearchingforpropertysecretedduringtheconfusion;anditisastonishinghowmanypeople,formerlytermedreputable,hadavailedthemselvesofthecommoncalamitytopurloinwhattheflamesspared.

  Others,expertatmakingadistinctionwithoutadifference,concealedwhattheyfound,nottroublingthemselvestoinquirefortheowners,thoughtheyscrupledtosearchforplunderanywhere,butamongsttheruins.

  Tobehonesterthanthelawsrequireisbymostpeoplethoughtaworkofsupererogation;andtoslipthroughthegrateofthelawhaseverexercisedtheabilitiesofadventurers,whowishtogetrichtheshortestway.Knaverywithoutpersonaldangerisanartbroughttogreatperfectionbythestatesmanandswindler;andmeanerknavesarenottardyinfollowingtheirfootsteps.

  Itmovesmygalltodiscoversomeofthecommercialfraudspractisedduringthepresentwar.Inshort,underwhateverpointofviewI

  considersociety,itappearstomethatanadorationofpropertyistherootofallevil.Hereitdoesnotrenderthepeopleenterprising,asinAmerica,butthriftyandcautious.Inever,therefore,wasinacapitalwheretherewassolittleappearanceofactiveindustry;andasforgaiety,IlookedinvainforthesprightlygaitoftheNorwegians,whoineveryrespectappeartometohavegotthestartofthem.ThisdifferenceIattributetotheirhavingmoreliberty——alibertywhichtheythinktheirrightbyinheritance,whilsttheDanes,whentheyboastoftheirnegativehappiness,alwaysmentionitastheboonofthePrinceRoyal,underthesuperintendingwisdomofCountBernstorff.Vassalageisneverthelessceasingthroughoutthekingdom,andwithitwillpassawaythatsordidavaricewhicheverymodificationofslaveryiscalculatedtoproduce.

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