Thoughtheammunitionbreadwithwhichheisfurnishedisrathercoarseandbrown,beingmadeofrye-meal,withonlyasmallquantityofthecoarserpartofthebranseparatedfromit,yetitisnotonlywholesome,butverynourishing;andformakingsoupitisevenmorepalatablethanwheatenbread。Mostofthesoldiers,however,intheElector’sservice,andparticularlythosebelongingtotheBavarianregiments,makeapracticeofsellingagreatpartoftheirallowanceofammunitionbread,andwiththemoneytheygetforit,buythebestwheatenbreadthatistobehad;andmanyofthemnevertastebrownbreadbutintheirsoup。
Theammunitionbreadisdeliveredtothesoldierseveryfourthday,inloaves,eachloafbeingequaltotworations;anditisarulegenerallyestablishedinthemesses,foreachsoldiertofurnishoneloaffortheuseofthemesseverytwelfthday,sothathehasfive-sixthsofhisallowanceofbread,whichremainsathisdisposal。
TheforegoingaccountofthemannerinwhichtheBavariansoldiersarefed,will,Ithink,showmostclearlythegreatimportanceofmakingsoldierslivetogetherinmesses——ItmaylikewisefurnishsomeusefulhintstothosewhomaybeengagedinfeedingthePoor,orinprovidingFoodforships’scompanies,orotherbodiesofmenwhoarefedincommon。
Withregardtotheexpenseoffuelintheseexperiments,asthevictualswerecookedinearthenpots,overanopenfire,theconsumptionoffire-woodwasverygreat。
Onthe10thofJune,when9lb。301/2lothsofsoup,1lb。28
lothsofmeat,and5lb。24lothsofbreaddumplins,inall17lb。
181/2ofFoodwereprepared,andtheprocessofcooking,fromthetimethefirewaslightedtillthevictualsweredone,lastedtwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,andtwenty-ninepounds,Bavarianweight,offire-woodwereconsumed。
Onthe11thofJune,when11lb。26lothsofbreadsoup,and8lb。
8lothsofbreaddumplins,inall20lb。2lothsofFoodwereprepared,theprocessofcookinglastedonehourandthirtyminutes;——andseventeenpoundsofwoodwereconsumed。
Onthe20thofJune,inSerjeantKein’smess,15lb。ofsoup;
1lb。22lothsofmeat,and8lb。ofliverdumplins,inall24lb。
22lothsofFoodwereprepared,andthroughtheprocessofcookinglastedtwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,only271/2lb。
offire-woodwereconsumed。
Onthe21stofJune,thesamequantityofsoupandmeat,and7lb。
ofbreaddumplins,inall23lb。22lothsofFoodwerepreparedintwohoursandthirtyminutes,withtheconsumptionof181/2lb。
ofwood。
Onthe22ndofJune,15lb。ofsoup,and10lb。ofmeatdumplins,inall25lb。ofFood,werecookedintwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,andthewoodconsumedwas18lb。10loths。
Thefollowingtablewillshow,inastrikingandsatisfactorymanner,theexpenseoffuelintheseexperiments:
DateoftheTimeemployedQuantityQuantityQuantityExperiments。incooking。ofFoodofWoodofWoodtoprepared。consumed。1lb。ofFood。
June1795。Hours。min。lb。loths。lb。
10th24517181/229
11th13020217
20th2452422171/2
21st2302322181/2
22d245250181/4——
Sums5121511101/21001/4——
Means2232201/5201/2010/11lb。
ThemeanquantityofFoodprepareddailyinfivedaysbeing22lb。
verynearly,andthemeanquantityoffire-woodconsumedbeing20
1/20lb。;thisgives10/11lb。ofwoodforeachpoundofFood。
Butithasbeenfoundbyactualexperiment,madewiththeutmostcare,inthenewkitchenoftheHouseofIndustryatMunich,andoftenrepeated,that600lb。ofFood,oftheSoupNo。I。giventothePoor,maybecookedwiththeconsumptionofonly44lb。
ofpine-wood。Andhenceitappearshowverygreatthewasteoffuelmustbeinallculinaryprocesses,astheyarecommonlyperformed;forthoughthetimetakenupincookingthesoupforthePooris,atamedium,morethanFOURHOURSANDAHALF,whilethatemployedbythesoldiersintheircookingislessthanTWOHOURSANDAHALF;yetthequantityoffuelconsumedbythelatterisnearTHIRTEENTIMESgreaterthanthatemployedinthepublickitchenoftheHouseofIndustry。
ButImustnothereanticipatehereamatterwhichistobethesubjectofaseparateEssay;andwhich,fromitsgreatimportance,certainlydeservestobecarefullyandthoroughlyinvestigated。
CHAPTER。V。
Ofthegreatimportanceofmakingsoldierseattogetherinregularmesses。
Theinfluenceofsucheconomicalarrangementsextendseventothemoralcharacterofthosewhoaretheobjectsofthem。
Oftheexpenceoffeedingsoldiersinmesses。
OfthesurprisingsmallnessoftheexpenceoffeedingthepooratMunich。
SpecificproposalsrespectingthefeedingofthepoorinGreatBritain,withcalculationsoftheexpense,atthepresentpricesofprovisions。
Allthosewhohavebeenconversantinmilitaryaffairsmusthavehadfrequentopportunitiesofobservingthestrikingdifferencethereis,evenintheappearanceofthemen,betweenregimentsinwhichmessesareestablished,andFoodisregularlyprovidedunderthecareandinspectionoftheOfficers;andothers,inwhichthesoldiersareleftindividuallytoshiftforthemselves。
Andthedifferencewhichmaybeobservedbetweensoldierswholiveinmesses,andareregularlyfed,andotherswhoarenot,isnotconfinedmerelytotheirexternalappearance:
theinfluenceofthesecausesextendsmuchfarther,andeventheMORALCHARACTERofthemanisaffectedbythem。
Peaceofmind,whichisasessentialtocontentmentandhappinessasitistovirtue,dependsmuchuponorderandregularityinthecommonaffairsoflife;andinnocaseareorderandmethodmorenecessarytohappiness,andconsequentlytovirtue,thaninthat,wherethepreservationofhealthisconnectedwiththesatisfyingofhunger;anappetitewhosecravingsaresometimesasinordinateastheyareinsatiable。
Peaceofminddependslikewisemuchuponeconomy,orthemeansusedforpreventingpecuniaryembarrassments;andthesavingstosoldiersinprovidingFood,whicharisefromhousekeepinginmessesoftenortwelvepersonswholivetogether,isverygreatindeed。
Butgreatasthesesavingsnoware,Ithinktheymightbemadestillmoreconsiderable;andIshallgivemyreasonsforthisopinion。
ThoughtheBavariansoldiersliveataverysmallexpense,littlemorethanTWO-PENCEsterlinga-day,yetwhenIcomparethissum,smallasitis,withtheexpenseoffeedingthePoorintheHouseofIndustryatMunich,whichdoesnotamounttomorethanTWOFARTHINGSa-day,evenincludingthecostofthepieceofdryrye-bread,weighingsevenouncesAvoirdupois[11],whichisgiventhemintheirhands,atdinner,butwhichtheyseldomeatatdinner,butcommonlycarryhomeintheirpocketsfortheirsuppers;——whenIcompare,Isay,thissmallsum,withthedailyexpenceofthesoldiersfortheirsubsistence,Ifindreasontoconclude,eitherthatthesoldiersmightbefedcheaper,orthatthePoormustbeabsolutelystarvedupontheirallowance。Thatthelatterisnotthecase,thehealthycountenancesofthePoor,andtheairofplacidcontentmentwhichalwaysaccompaniesthem,aswellinthedining-hallasintheirworking-rooms,affordsatthesametimethemostinterestingandmostsatisfactoryproofpossible。
Weretheytogohomeinthecourseoftheday,itmightbesuspectedthattheygotsomethingathometoeat,inadditiontowhattheyreceivefromthepublickitchenoftheEstablishment;——
butthistheyseldomoreverdo;andtheycometothehousesoearlyinthemorning,andleaveitsolateatnight,thatitdoesnotseemprobablethattheycouldfindtimetocookanythingattheirownlodgings。
Someofthem,Iknown,makeaconstantpracticeofgivingthemselvesatreatofapintofbeeratnight,aftertheyhavefinishedtheirwork;butIdonotbelievetheyhaveanythingelsefortheirsuppers,exceptitbethebreadwhichtheycarryhomefromtheHouseofIndustry。
Imustconfess,however,veryfairly,thatitalwaysappearedtomequitesurprising,andthatitisstillamysterywhichIdonotclearlyunderstand,howitispossibleforthesepoorpeopletobesocomfortablyfeduponthesmallallowanceswhichtheyreceive——Thefacts,however,arenotonlycertain,buttheyarenotorious。Manypersonsofthemostrespectablecharactersinthiscountry,GreatBritain,aswellasupontheContinent,whohavevisitedtheHouseofIndustryatMunich,canbearwitnesstotheirauthenticity;andtheyaresurelynotthelessinterestingforbeingextraordinary。
Itmusthoweverberemembered,thatwhatformerlycostTWOFARTHINGS
inBavaria,atthemeanpriceofprovisionsinthatcountry,costsTHREEfarthingsatthispresentmoment;andwouldprobablycostSIXinLondon,andinmostotherpartsofGreatBritain:butstill,itwilldoubtlessappearalmostincredible,thatacomfortableandnourishingmeal,sufficientforsatisfyingthehungerofastrongman,maybefurnishedinLondon,andatthisverymoment,whenprovisionsofallkindsaresoremarkablydear,atLESSTHANTHREEFARTHINGS。Thefact,however,ismostcertain,andmayeasilybedemonstratedbymakingtheexperiment。
Supposingthatitshouldbenecessary,infeedingthePoorinthiscountry,tofurnishthemwiththreemealsa-day,eventhatmightbedoneataverysmallexpence,werethesystemoffeedingthemadoptedwhichishereproposed。Theamountofthatexpencewouldbeasfollows:
Pence。Farths。
Forbreakfast,20ouncesoftheSoupNo,II。
composedofpearlbarley,peas,potatoes,andfinewheatenbreadSeepage210。021/2
Fordinner,20ouncesofthesameSoup,and7ouncesofrye-bread……12
Forsupper,20ouncesofthesameSoup……021/2——
Inall4lb。3oz。ofFood[12],whichwouldcost23
Shoulditbethoughtnecessarytogivealittlemeatatdinner,thismaybestbedonebymixingit,cutfine,orminced,inbreaddumplins;orwhenbacon,oranykindofsaltedorsmokedmeatisgiven,tocutitfineandmixitwiththebreadwhichiseateninthesoup。Ifthebreadbefried,theFoodwillbemuchimproved;
butthiswillbeattendedwithsomeadditionalexpence——
Rye-breadisasgood,ifnotbetter,forfrying,thanbreadmadeofwheatflour;anditiscommonlynothalfsodear——
Perhapsrye-breadfriedmightbefurnishedalmostascheapaswheatenbreadnotfried;andifthiscouldbedone,itwouldcertainlybeaverygreatimprovement。
Thereisanotherwaybywhichthesecheapsoupsmaybemadeexceedinglypalatableandsavoury;——whichisbymixingwiththemaverysmallquantityofredherrings,mincedveryfineorpoundedinamortar——ThereisnokindofcheapFood,Ibelieve,thathassomuchtasteasredherrings,orthatcommunicatesitsflavourwithsomuchliberalitytoothereatables;andtomostpalatesitisremarkablyagreeable。
Cheesemaylikewisebemadeuseofforgivinganagreeablerelishtothesesoups;andaverysmallquantityofitwillbesufficientforthatpurpose,providedithasastrongtaste,andisproperlyapplied——Itshouldbegratedtoapowderwithagrater,andasmallquantityofthispowderthrownoverthesoup,AFTERITISDISHEDOUT——Thisisfrequentlydoneatthesumptuoustablesoftherich,andisthoughtagreatdelicacy;whilethePoor,whohavesofewenjoyments,havenotbeentaughttoavailthemselvesofthis,whichissomuchwithintheirreach。
Thosewholeavocationscallthemtovisitdistantcountries,andthosewhosefortuneenablesthemtotravelfortheiramusementorimprovement,havemanyopportunitiesofacquiringusefulinformation;andinconsequenceofthisintercoursewithstrangers,manyimprovements,andmoreREFINEMENTS,havebeenintroducedintothiscountry;butthemostimportantadvantagesthatMIGHTbederivedfromanintimateknowledgeofthemannersandcustomsofdifferingnations,——theintroductionofimprovementstendingtofacilitatethemeansofsubsistence,andtoincreasethecomfortsandconveniencesofthemostnecessitousandmostnumerousclassesofsociety,——havebeen,alas!littleattendedto。Ourextensivecommerceenablesustoprocure,andwedoactuallyimportmostofthevaluablecommoditieswhicharetheproduceeitherofthefoiloftheocean,oroftheindustryofmaninallthevariousregionsofthehabitableglobe;——buttheresultoftheEXPERIENCEOFAGESrespectingtheusethatcanbemadeofthosecommoditieshasseldombeenthoughtworthimporting!IneverseemaccaroniinEngland,orpolentainGermany,uponthetablesoftherich,withoutlamentingthatcheapandwholesomeluxuriesshouldbemonopolizedbythosewhostandleastinneedofthem;whilethePoor,who,onewouldthink,oughttobeconsideredashavingalmostanEXCLUSIVErighttothem,astheywerebothinventedbythePoorofaneighbouringnation,arekeptinperfectignoranceofthem。
ButthesetwokindsofFoodaresopalatable,wholesome,andnourishing,andmaybeprovidedsoeasily,andatsoverycheaparateinallcountries,andparticularlyinGreatBritain,thatIthinkIcannotdobetterthantodevoteafewpagestotheexaminationofthem;——andIshallbeginwithPolenta,orIndiancorn,asitiscalledinthiscountry。
CHAPTER。VI。
OfINDIANCORN。
Itaffordsthecheapestandmostnourishingfoodknown。
Proofsthatitismorenourishingthanrice。
Differentwaysofpreparingorcookingit。
Computationoftheexpenseoffeedingapersonwithit,foundedonexperiment。
ApprovedReceiptformakinganINDIANPUDDING。
IcannothelpincreasingthelengthofthisEssaymuchbeyondtheboundsIoriginallyassignedtoit,inordertohaveanopportunityofrecommendingakindofFoodwhichIbelievetobebeyondcomparisonthemostnourishing,cheapest,andmostwholesomethatcanbeprocuredforfeedingthePoor——ThisisIndianCorn,amostvaluableproduction;andwhichgrowsinalmostallclimates;andthoughitdoesnotsucceedremarkablywellinGreatBritain,andinsomepartsofGermany,yetitmayeasilybehadingreatabundance,fromothercountries;
andcommonlyataverylowrate。
ThecommonpeopleinthenorthernpartsofItalylivealmostentirelyuponit;andthroughoutthewholeContinentofAmericaitmakesaprincipalarticleofFood——InItalyitiscalledPolenta,whereitispreparedorcookedinavarietyofways,andformsthebasisofanumberofverynourishingdishes——
Themostcommonwayhoweverofusingitinthatcountryistogrinditintomeal,andwithwatertomakeitintoathickkindofpudding,likewhatinthiscountryiscalledahasty-pudding,whichiseatenwithvariouskindsofsauce,andsometimeswithoutanysauce。
InthenorthernpartsofNorthAmerica,thecommonhouseholdbreadthroughoutthecountryiscomposedofonepartofIndianmealandonepartofryemeal;andImuchdoubtwhetheramorewholesome,ormorenourishingkindofbreadcanbemade。
Riceisuniversallyallowedtobeverynourishing,——muchmoresoeventhanwheat;butthereisacircumstancewellknowntoallthosewhoareacquaintedwiththedetailsoffeedingthenegroslavesinthesouthernstatesofNorthAmerica,andintheWestIndies,thatwouldseemtoprove,inaverydecisiveandsatisfactorymanner,thatINDIANCORNISEVENMORENOURISHING
THANRICE——Inthosecountries,wherericeandIndianCornarebothproducedinthegreatestabundance,thenegroeshavefrequentlyhadtheiroptionbetweenthesetwokindsofFood;andhaveinvariablypreferredthelatter——Thereasonstheygiveforthispreferencetheyexpressinstrong,thoughnotinverydelicateterms——Theysaythat“Riceturnstowaterintheirbellies,andrunsoff;“——but“IndianCornstayswiththem,andmakesstrongtowork。”
ThisaccountofthepreferencewhichnegroesgivetoIndianCornforFood,andoftheirreasonsforthispreference,wascommunicatedtomebytwogentlemenofmostrespectablecharacter,wellknowninEngland,andnowresidentinLondon,whowereformerlyplanters;oneinGeorgia,andtheotherinJamaica。
ThenutritivequantitywhichIndianCornpossessed,inamosteminentdegree,whenemployedforfatteninghogsandpoultry,andforgivingstrengthtoworkingoxen,haslongbeenuniversallyknownandacknowledgedineverypartofNorthAmerica;andnobodyinthatcountrythinksofemployinganyothergrainforthosepurposes。
AllthesefactsprovetoademonstrationthatIndiaCornpossessesveryextraordinarynutritivepowers;anditiswellknownthatthereisnospeciesofgrainthatcanbehadsocheap,orinsogreatabundance;——itisthereforewellworthytheattentionofthosewhoareengagedinprovidingcheapandwholesomeFoodforthePoor,——orintakingmeasuresforwardingofftheevilswhichcommonlyattendageneralscarcityofprovisions,toconsiderintime,howthisusefularticleofFoodmaybeprocuredinlargequantities,andhowtheintroductionofitintocommonusecanbemosteasilybeeffected。
InregardtothemannerofusingIndianCorn,thereareavastvarietyofdifferentwaysinwhichitmaybeprepared,orcooked,inordertoitsbeingusedasFood——Onesimpleandobviouswayofusingit,istomixitwithwheat,rye,orbarleymeal,inmakingbread;butwhenitisusedformakingbread,andparticularlywhenitismixedwithwheatflour,itwillgreatlyimprovethequalityofthebreadiftheIndianmeal,thecoarserpartofthebranbeingfirstseparatedfromitbysifting,bepreviouslymixedwithwater,andboiledforaconsiderablelengthoftime,——twoorthreehoursforinstance,overaslowfire,beforetheothermealorflourisaddedtoit——Thisboiling,which,iftheproperquantityofwaterisemployed,willbringthemasstotheconsistencyofathinpudding,willeffectuallyremoveacertaindisagreeableRAWTASTEintheIndianCorn,whichsimplebakingwillnotentirelytakeaway;andthewheatflourbeingmixedwiththispuddingafterithasbeentakenfromthefireandcooked,andthewholewellkneadedtogether,maybemadetorise,andbeformedintoloaves,andbakedintobread,withthesamefacilitythatbreadismadeofwheatflouralone,orofanymixturesofdifferentkindsofmeal。
WhentheIndianmealispreviouslypreparedbyboiling,inthemannerheredescribed,amostexcellent,andverypalatablekindofbread,notinferiortowheatenbread,maybemadeofequalpartsofthismealandofcommonwheatflour。
Butthemostsimple,andIbelievethebest,andmosteconomicalwayofemployingIndianCornasFood,istomakeitintopuddings——Thereis,asIhavealreadyobserved,acertainrawnessinthetasteofit,whichnothingbutlongboilingcanremove;butwhenthatdisagreeabletasteisremoved,itbecomesextremelypalatable;andthatitisremarkablywholesome,hasbeenprovedbysomuchexperiencethatnodoubtscanpossiblybeentertainedofthatfact。
Thecultureofitrequiredmorelabourthanmostotherkindsofgrain;but,ontheotherhand,theproduceisveryabundant,anditisalwaysmuchcheaperthaneitherwheatorrye——
ThepriceofitintheCarolinas,andinGeorgia,hasoftenbeenaslowaseighteenpence,andsometimesasoneshillingsterlingperbushel;——buttheIndianCornwhichisgrowninthosesouthernstatesismuchinferior,bothinweightandinitsqualities,tothatwhichistheproduceofcolderclimates——IndianCornofthegrowthofCanada,andtheNewEnglandstates,whichisgenerallythoughttobeworthtwentypercent。moreperbushelthanthatwhichisgrowninthesouthernstates,maycommonlybeboughtfortwoandsixpence,orthreeshillingsabushel。
ItisnowthreeshillingsandsixpenceabushelatBoston;butthepricesofprovisionsofallkindshavebeenmuchraisedoflateinallpartsofAmerica,owingtotheuncommonlyhighpriceswhicharepaidforthemintheEuropeanmarketssincethecommencementofthepresentwar。
IndianCornandryeareverynearlyofthesameweight,buttheformergivesrathermoreflour,whengroundandsifted,thanthelatter——IfindbyareportoftheBoardofAgriculture,ofthe10thofNovember1795,thatthreebushelsofIndianCornweighed1cwt。1qr。18lb。or53lb。eachbushel,andgave1cwt。20lb。
offlourand26lb。ofbran;whilethreebushelsofrye,weighing1cwt。1qr。22lb。or54lb。thebushel,gaveonly1cwt。17lb。
offlourand28lb。ofbran——ButImuchsuspectthattheIndianCornusedintheseexperimentswasnotofthebestquality[13]。
Isawsomeofit,anditappearedtometobeofthatkindwhichiscommonlygrowninthesouthernstatesofNorthAmerica——
IndianCornofthegrowthofcolderclimatesis,probably,atleastasheavyaswheat,whichweightsatamediumabout58lb。
perbushel,andIimagineitwillgivenearlyasmuchflour[14]。
InregardtothemostadvantageousmethodofusingIndianCornasFood,Iwouldstronglyrecommend,particularlywhenitisemployedforfeedingthePoor,adishmadeofitthatisinthehighestestimationthroughoutAmerica,andwhichisreallyverygood,andverynourishing。Thisiscalledhasty-pudding;anditismadeinthefollowingmanner:Aquantityofwater,proportionedtothequantityofhasty-puddingintendedtobemade,isputoverthefireinanopenironpot,orkettle,andaproperquantityofsaltforseasoningthepuddingbeingpreviouslydissolvedinthewater,Indianmealisstirredintoit,bylittleandlittle,withawoodedspoonwithalonghandle,whilethewatergoesontobeheatedandmadetoboil;——greatcarebeingtakentoputinthemealbyverysmallquantities,andbysiftingitslowlythroughthefingersofthelefthand,andstirringthewateraboutverybrisklyatthesametimewiththewoodenspoon,withtherighthand,tomixthemealwiththewaterinsuchamannerastopreventlumpsbeingformed——
Themealshouldbeaddedsoslowly,that,whenthewaterisbroughttoboil,themassshouldnotbethickerthanwater-gruel,andhalfanhourmore,atleast,shouldbeemployedtoaddtheadditionalquantityofmealnecessaryforbringingthepuddingtobeoftheproperconsistency;duringwhichtimeitshouldbestirredaboutcontinually,andkeptconstantlyboiling——
Themethodofdeterminingwhenthepuddinghasacquiredtheproperconsistencyisthis;——thewoodenspoonusedforstirringitbeingplaceduprightinthemiddleofthekettle,ifitfallsdown,moremealmustbeadded;butifthepuddingissufficientlythickandadhesivetosupportitinaverticalposition,itisdeclaredtobePROOF;andnomoremealisadded——Iftheboiling,insteadofbeingcontinuedonlyhalfanhour,beprolongedtothreequartersofanhour,oranhour,thepuddingwillbeconsiderablyimprovedbythisprolongation。
Thishasty-pudding,whendone,maybeeateninvariousways——
Itmaybeput,whilehot,byspoonfulsintoabowlofmilk,andeatenwiththemilkwithaspoon,inlieuofbread;andusedinthiswayitisremarkablypalatable——Itmaylikewisebeeaten,whilehot,withasaucecomposedofbutterandbrownsugar,orbutterandmolasses,withorwithoutafewdropsofvinegar;andhoweverpeoplewhohavenotbeenaccustomedtothisAmericancookerymaybeprejudicedagainstit,theywillfindupontrialthatitmakesamostexcellentdish,andonewhichneverfailstobemuchlikedbythosewhoareaccustomedtoit——
TheuniversalfondnessofAmericansforitprovesthatitmusthavesomemerit;——forinacountrywhichproducesallthedelicaciesofthetableinthegreatestabundance,itisnottobesupposedthatawholenationshouldhaveatastesodepravedastogiveadecidedpreferencetoanyparticularspeciesofFoodwhichhasnotsomethingtorecommendit。
Themannerinwhichhasty-puddingiseatenwithbutterandsugar,orbutterandmolasses,inAmerica,isasfollows:Thehasty-puddingbeingspreadoutequallyuponaplate,whilehot,anexcavationismadeinthemiddleofit,withaspoon,intowhichexcavationapieceofbutter,aslargeasanutmeg,isput;anduponit,aspoonfulofbrownsugar,ormorecommonlyofmolasses——
Thebutterbeingsoonmeltedbytheheatofthepudding,mixeswiththesugar,ormolasses,andformsasauce,which,beingconfinedintheexcavationmadeforit,occupiesthemiddleoftheplate——Thepuddingistheneatenwithaspoon,eachspoonfulofitbeingdiptintothesaucebeforeitiscarriedtothemouth;
carebeinghadintakingitup,tobeginontheoutside,ornearthebrimoftheplate,andtoapproachthecenterbyregularadvances,inordernottodemolishtoosoontheexcavationwhichformsthereservoirforthesauce。
IfIamprolixinthesedescriptions,myreadermustexcuseme;
forpersuadedasIamthattheactionofFooduponthepalate,andconsequentlythepleasureofeating,dependsverymuchindeedupontheMANNERinwhichtheFoodisappliedtotheorgansoftaste,Ihavethoughtitnecessarytomention,andeventoillustrateintheclearestmanner,everycircumstancewhichappearedtometohaveinfluenceinproducingthoseimportanteffects。
Inthecaseinquestion,asitisthesaucealonewhichgivestasteandpalatablenesstotheFood,andconsequentlyisthecauseofthepleasureenjoyedineatingit,theimportanceofapplying,orusingit,insuchamannerastoproducethegreatestandmostdurableeffectpossibleontheorgansoftaste,isquiteevident;andinthemannerofeatingthisFoodwhichhasherebeendescribedandrecommended,thesmallquantityofsauceused,andthequantitymustbesmall,asitistheexpensivearticle,iscertainlyappliedtothepalatemoreimmediately;——
byagreatersurface;——andinastateofgreatercondensation;——
andconsequentlyactsuponitmorepowerfully;——andcontinuestoactuponitforagreaterlengthoftime,thanitcouldwellbemadetodowhenusedinanyotherway——Wereitmoreintimatelymixedwiththepudding,forinstance,insteadofbeingmerelyappliedtoitsexternalsurface,itsactionwouldcertainlybemuchlesspowerful;andwereitpouredoverthepudding,orwaspropercarenottakentokeepitconfinedinthelittleexcavationorreservoirmadeinthemidstofthepuddingtocontainit,muchofitwouldattachitselfandadheretothesurfaceoftheplate,andbelost。
Hasty-puddinghasthisinparticulartorecommendit;——andwhichrendersitsingularlyusefulasFoodforpoorfamilies,——thatwhenmoreofitismadeatoncethanisimmediatelywanted,whatremainsmaybepreservedgoodforseveraldays,andanumberofverypalatabledishesmaybemadeofit——Itmaybecutinthinslice,andtoastedbeforethefire,oronagridiron,andeateninsteadofbread,eitherinmilk,orinanykindofsouporpottage;orwithanyotherkindofFoodwithwhichbreadiscommonlyeaten;oritmaybeeatencold,withoutanypreparation,withawarmsaucemadeofbutter,molasses,orsugar,andalittlevinegar——Inthislast-mentionedwayofeatingit,itisquiteaspalatable,andIbelievemorewholesome,thanwheneatenwarm;thatistosay,whenitisfirstmade——Itmaylikewisebeputcold,withoutanypreparation,intohotmilk;
andthismixtureisbynomeansunpalatable,particularlyifitbesufferedtoremaininthemilktillitiswarmedthroughout,orifitbeboiledinthemilkforafewmoments。
AfavouritedishinAmerica,andaverygoodone,ismadeofcoldboiledcabbagechoppedfine,withasmallquantityofcoldboiledbeef,andslicesofcoldhasty-pudding,allfriedtogetherinbutterorhog’slard。
Thoughhasty-puddingsarecommonlymadeofIndianmeal,yetitisbynomeansuncommontomakethemofequalpartsofIndian,andofryemeal;——andtheyaresometimesmadeofryemealalone;
orofryemealandwheatflourmixed。
Togiveasatisfactoryideaoftheexpenceofpreparinghasty-puddingsinthiscountry,England,andoffeedingthePoorwiththem,Imadethefollowingexperiment:——About2pintsofwater,whichweighedjust2lb。Avoirdupois,wereputoverthefireinasaucepanofapropersize,and58grainsinweightor1/120ofapoundofsaltbeingadded,thewaterwasmadetoboil——Duringthetimethatiswasheating,smallquantitiesofIndianmealwerestirredintoit,andcarewastaken,bymovingthewaterbrisklyabout,withawoodenspoon,topreventthemealfrombeingformedintolumps;andasoftenasanylumpswereobserved,theywerecarefullybrokenwiththespoon;——theboilingwasthencontinuedhalfanhour,andduringthistimethepuddingwascontinuallystirredaboutwiththewoodenspoon,andsomuchmoremealwasaddedaswasfoundnecessarytobringthepuddingtobeoftheproperconsistency。
Thisbeingdone,itwastakenfromthefireandweighed,andwasfoundtoweighjust1lb。111/2oz——Uponweighingthemealwhichremained,thequantityfirstprovidedhavingbeenexactlydeterminedbyweightinthebeginningoftheexperiment,itwasfoundthatjustHALFAPOUNDofmealhadbeenused。
Fromtheresultofthisexperimentitappears,thatforeachpoundofIndianmealemployedinmakinghasty-pudding,wemayreckon3lb。9oz。ofthepudding——AndexpenceofprovidingthiskindofFood,orthecostofitbythepound,atthepresenthighpriceofgraininthiscountry,maybeseenbythefollowingcomputation:
L。s。d。
HalfapoundofIndianmeal,thequantity]
usedintheforegoingexperiment,at2d]
apoundor7s。6d。abushelforthecorn,]……001
thepricestatedinthereportofthe]
BoardofAgricultureofthe10thof]
November1795,sooftenreferredto,costs]
58grainsor1/120ofapoundofsalt,at]
2d。perpound]……0001/60——
Total,0011/60
Now,asthequantityofpuddingpreparedwiththeseingredientswas1lb。111/2oz。andthecostoftheingredientsamountedtoONEPENNYANDONESIXTIETHOFAPENNY,thisgivesforthecostofonepoundofhasty-pudding71/120ofapenny,or21/3farthings,verynearly——ItmusthoweverberememberedthattheIndianCornisherereckonedataveryexorbitantpriceindeed[15]。
ButbeforeitcanbedeterminedwhattheexpencewillbeoffeedingthePoorwiththiskindofFood,itwillbenecessarytoascertainhowmuchofitwillberequiredtogiveacomfortablemealtooneperson;andhowmuchtheexpencewillbeofprovidingthesauceforthatquantityofpudding——Todeterminethesetwopointswithsomedegreeofprecision,Imadethefollowingexperiment:——Havingtakenmybreakfast,consistingoftwodishesofcoffee,withcream,andadrytoast,atmyusualhourofbreakfasting,nineo’clockinthemorning,andhavingfastedfromthattimetillfiveo’clockintheafternoon,Ithendineduponmyhasty-pudding,withtheAmericansaucealreadydescribed,andIfound,aftermyappetiteforFoodwasperfectlysatisfied,andIfeltthatIhadmadeacomfortabledinner,thatIhadeatenjust1lb。11/2oz。ofthepudding;andtheingredients,ofwhichthesaucewhichwaseatenwithitwascomposed,werehalfanounceofbutter;threequartersofanounceofmolasses;
and21grainsor1/342ofapintofvinegar。
Thecostofthisdinnermaybeseenbythefollowingcomputation:
ForthePuddingFarthings。
1lb。11/2oz。ofhasty-pudding,at21/3farthingsapound……21/2——
FortheSauceHalfanounceofbutter,at10d。perpound11/4
Threequartersofanounceofmolasses,at6d。perpound……1
1/352ofapintofvinegar,at2s8d。
thegallon……01/16——
TotalfortheSauce,25/16farthings。
Sumtotalofexpencesforthisdinner,forthepuddinganditssauce……413/16farthings。
Orsomethinglessthanonepennyfarthing。
IbelieveitwouldnotbeeasytoprovideadinnerinLondon,atthistime,whenprovisionsofallkindsaresodear,equallygratefultothepalateandsatisfyingtothecravingsofhunger,atasmallerexpence——Andthatthismealwassufficientforallthepurposesofnourishmentappearsfromhence,thatthoughI
tookmyusualexercise,anddidnotsupafterit,Ineitherfeltanyparticularfaintness,noranyunusualdegreeofappetiteformybreakfastnextmorning。
Ihavebeenthemoreparticularinmyaccountofthisexperiment,toshowinwhatmannerexperimentsofthiskindought,inmyopinion,tobeconducted;——andalsotoinduceotherstoengageinthesemostusefulinvestigations。
Itwillnotescapetheobservationofthereader,thatsmallastheexpencewasofprovidingthisdinner,yetverynearone-halfofthatsumwaslaidoutinpurchasingtheingredientsforthesauce——Butitisprobablethataconsiderablepartofthatexpencemightbesaved——InItaly,polenta,whichisnothingmorethanhasty-puddingmadewithIndianmealandwater,isveryfrequently,andIbelievecommonlyeatenwithoutanysauce,andwhenonholidaysorotherextraordinaryoccasionstheyindulgethemselvesbyaddingasaucetoit,thissauceisfarfromexpensive——Itiscommonlynothingmorethanaverysmallquantityofbutterspreadovertheflatsurfaceofthehotpolentawhichisspreadoutthininalargeplatter;withalittleParmezanorotherstrongcheese,reducedtoacoarsepowderbygratingitwithagrater,strewedoverit。
PerhapsthisItaliansaucemightbemoreagreeabletoanEnglishpalatethanthatcommonlyusedinAmerica。Itwouldcertainlybelessexpensive,asmuchlessbutterwouldberequired,andascheeseinthiscountryisplentyandcheap。ButwhatevermaybethesauceusedwithFoodpreparedofIndianCorn,Icannottoostronglyrecommendtheuseofthatgrain。
WhileIwasemployedinmakingmyexperimentuponhasty-pudding,Ilearntfrommyservant,aBavarian,whoassistedme,afactwhichgavemegreatpleasure,asitservedtoconfirmmeintheopinionIhavelongentertainedofthegreatmeritofIndianCorn——HeassuredmethatpolentaismuchesteemedbythepeasantryinBavaria,andthatitmakesaveryconsiderablearticleoftheirFood;thatitcomesfromItalythroughtheTyrol;andthatitiscommonlysoldinBavariaATTHESAMEPRICE
ASWHEATFLOUR!Cantherebestrongerproofsofitsmerit?
ThenegroesinAmericapreferittorice;andtheBavarianpeasantstowheat——Whythenshouldnottheinhabitantsofthisislandlikeit?Itwillnot,Ihope,bepretended,thatitisinthisfavouredsoilalonethatprejudicestakesuchdeeprootthattheyarenevertobeeradicated,orthatthereisanythingpeculiarintheconstructionofthepalateofanEnglishman。
TheobjectionthatmaybemadetoIndianCorn,——thatitdoesnotthrivewellinthiscountry,——isofnoweight。Thesameobjectionmight,withequalreason,bemadetorice,andtwentyotherarticlesofFoodnowincommonuse。
Ithaseverbeenconsidered,bythoseversedinthescienceofpoliticaleconomy,asanobjectofthefirstimportancetokeepdownthepricesofprovisions,particularlyinmanufacturingandcommercialcountries;——andiftherebeacountryonearthwherethisoughttobedone,itissurelyGreatBritain:——andthereiscertainlynocountrywhichhasthemeansofdoingitsomuchinitspower。
Buttheprogressofnationalimprovementsmustbeveryslow,howeverfavorableothercircumstancesmaybe,wherethosecitizens,who,bytheirrankandsituationinsociety,aredestinedtodirectthepublicopinion,AFFECTtoconsiderthenationalprejudicesasunconquerable[16]——Buttoreturntothesubjectimmediatelyunderconsideration。
Thoughhasty-puddingis,Ibelieve,thecheapestFoodthatcanbepreparedwithIndianCorn,yetseveralotherverycheapdishesmaybemadeofit,whichingeneralareconsideredasbeingmorepalatable,andwhich,mostprobably,wouldbepreferredinthiscountry;andamongthese,whatinAmericaiscalledaplainIndianpuddingcertainlyholdsthefirstplace,andcanhardlyfailtobemuchlikedbythose,whowillbepersuadedtotryit——Itisnotonlycheapandwholesome,butagreatdelicacy;
anditisprincipallyonaccountofthesepuddingsthattheAmericans,whoresideinthiscountry,importannuallyfortheirownconsumptionIndianCornfromtheContinentofAmerica。
InordertobeabletogivethemostparticularandsatisfactoryinformationrespectingthemannerofpreparingtheseIndianpuddings,Icausedoneofthemtobemadehere,inLondon,
undermyimmediatedirection,byapersonbornandbroughtupinNorthAmerica,andwhounderstandsperfectlytheAmericanartofcookeryinallitsbranches[17]。Thispudding,whichwasallowedbycompetentjudgeswhotastedittobeasgoodastheyhadevereaten,wascomposedandpreparedinthefollowingmanner:
ApprovedReceiptformakingaplainIndianPudding。
ThreepoundsofIndianmealfromwhichthebranhadbeenseparatedbysiftingitinacommonhairsievewereputintoalargebowl,andfivepintsofboilingwaterwereputtoit,andthewholewellstirredtogether;threequartersofapoundofmolassesandoneounceofsaltwerethenaddedtoit,andthesebeingwellmixed,bystirringthemwiththeotheringredients,thepuddingwaspouredintoafitbag;andthebagbeingtiedup,anemptyspacebeingleftinthebagtyingit,equaltoaboutone-sixthofitscontents,forgivingroomforthepuddingtoswell,thispuddingwasputintoakettleofboilingwater,andwasboiledsixhourswithoutintermission;thelossofthewaterinthekettlebyevaporationduringthistimebeingfrequentlyreplacedwithboilingwaterfromanotherkettle。
Thepuddinguponbeingtakenoutofthebagweighedtenpoundsandoneounce;anditwasfoundtobeperfectlydone,nothavingthesmallestremainsofthatrawtastesodisagreeabletoallpalates,andparticularlytothosewhoarenotusedtoit,whichalwayspredominatesindishespreparedofIndianmealwhentheyarenotsufficientlycooked。
Asthisrawtasteistheonlywell-foundedobjectionthatcanbemadetothismostusefulgrain,andis,Iampersuaded,theonlycausewhichmakesitdislikedbythosewhoarenotaccustomedtoit,Iwouldadvisethosewhomayattempttointroduceitintocommonuse,whereitisnotknown,tobeginwithIndianbagpuddings,suchasIhaveherebeendescribing;andthatthisisaverycheapkindofFoodwillbeevidentfromthefollowingcomputation:
ExpenseofpreparingtheIndianPuddingabovementioned。
Pence。Pence。
3lb。ofIndianmealat……11/2……41/2
3/4lb。ofmolassesat……6……41/2
1oz。ofsaltat2d。perlb……01/8——
Totalfortheingredients,91/8
Asthispuddingweighed101/16lbs。andtheingredientscostninepenceandhalfafarthing,thisgivesthreefarthingsandahalfforeachpoundofpudding。
Itwillbeobserved,thatinthiscomputationIhavereckonedtheIndianmealatnomorethan11/2dperpound,whereasinthecalculationwhichwasgiventodeterminetheexpenseofpreparinghasty-puddingitwastakenattwopenceapound。Ihaveherereckoneditat11/2d。apound,becauseIampersuadeditmightbehadhereinLondonforthatprice,andevenforless——ThatwhichhaslatelybeenimportedfromBostonhasnotcostsomuch;
andwereitnotforthepresentuniversalscarcityofprovisionsinEurope,whichhasnaturallyraisedthepriceofgraininNorthAmerica,IhavenodoubtbutIndianmealmightbehadinthiscountryforlessthanonepennyfarthingperpound。
IncomposingtheIndianpuddingabovementioned,themolassesischargedat6d。thepound,butthatpriceisveryexorbitant。
Agallonofmolassesweighingabout10lb。commonlycostsintheWestIndiesfrom7d。to9d。sterling;andallowingsufficientlyfortheexpensesoffreight,insurance,andafairprofitforthemerchant,itcertainlyoughtnottocostinLondonmorethan1s。8d。
thegallon[18];andthiswouldbringitto2d。perpound。
IfwetakethepricesofIndianmealandmolassesastheyarehereascertained,andcomputetheexpenseoftheingredientsforthepuddingbeforementioned,itwillbeasfollows:——
Pence。Pence。
3lb。ofIndianmealat……11/4……33/4
3/4lb。ofmolassesat……2……11/2
1oz。ofsaltat2d。perlb……01/8——
Totalfortheingredients,53/8
Nowasthepuddingweighed101/16lbs。thisgivestwofarthings,verynearly,foreachpoundofpudding;whichiscertainlyverycheapindeed,particularlywhentheexcellentqualitiesoftheFoodareconsidered。
Thispudding,whichoughttocomeoutofthebagsufficientlyhardtoretainitsform,andeventobecutintoslices,issorichandpalatable,thatitmayverywellbeeatenwithoutanysauce;butthosewhocanafforditcommonlyeatitwithbutter。
Asliceofthepudding,abouthalfaninch,orthreequartersofaninchinthickness,beinglaidhotuponaplate,anexcavationismadeinthemiddleofit,withthepointoftheknife,intowhichasmallpieceofbutter,aslargeperhapsasanutmeg,isput,andwhereitsoonmelts。Toexpeditethemeltingofthebutter,thesmallpieceofpuddingwhichiscutoutofthemiddleoftheslicetoformtheexcavationforreceivingthebutter,isfrequentlylaidoverthebutterforafewmoments,andistakenawayandeatenassoonasthebutterismelted。
Ifthebutterisnotsaltenough,alittlesaltisputintoitafteritismelted。Thepuddingistobeeatenwithaknifeandfork,beginningatthecircumferenceoftheslice,andapproachingregularlytowardsthecenter,eachpieceofpuddingbeingtakenupwiththefork,anddippedintothebutter,ordippedintoitINPARTONLY,asiscommonlythecase,beforeitiscarriedtothemouth。
Tothosewhoareaccustomedtoviewobjectsuponagreatscale,andwhoaretoomuchemployedindirectingwhatoughttobedone,todescendtothosehumbleinvestigationswhicharenecessarytoshowHOWitistobeeffected,thesedetailswilldoubtlessappeartriflingandridiculous;butasmymindisstronglyimpressedwiththeimportanceofgivingthemostminuteandcircumstantialinformationrespectingtheMANNEROFPERFORMING
anyoperation,howeversimpleitmaybe,towhichpeoplehavenotbeenaccustomed,Imustbegtheindulgenceofthosewhomaynotfeelthemselvesparticularlyinterestedinthesedescriptions。
InregardtotheamountoftheexpenceforsauceforaplainIndianbagpudding,Ihavefoundthatwhenbutterisusedforthatpurpose,andnoothersauceoughtevertobeusedwithit,
halfanounceofbutterwillsufficeforonepoundofthepudding——
Itisverypossibletocontrivematterssoastousemuchmore;——perhapstwice,orthreetimesasmuch;——butifthedirectionsrelativetotheMANNERofeatingthisFood,whichhavealreadybeengiven,arestrictlyfollowed,theallowanceofbutterheredeterminedwillbequitesufficientforthepurposeforwhichitisdesigned;thatistosay,forgivinganagreeablerelishtothepudding——Thosewhoareparticularlyfondofbuttermayusethreequartersofanounceofitwithapoundofthepudding;butIamcertain,thattouseanouncewouldbetowasteittonopurposewhatever。
IfnowwereckonIrish,orotherfirkinbutter,which,asitissalted,isthebestthatcanbeused,ateightpencethepound,thesauceforonepoundofpudding,namely,halfanounceofbutter,willcostjustonefarthing;andthis,addedtothecostofthepudding,twofarthingsthepound,givesthreefarthingforthecostbythepoundofthiskindoffood,withitssauce;and,asthisfoodisnotonlyveryrichandnutritive,butsatisfyingatthesametimeinaveryremarkabledegree,itappearshowwellcalculateditisforfeedingthePoor。
Itshouldberemembered,thatthemolassesusedasaningredientintheseIndianpuddings,doesnotservemerelytogivetastetothem;——itactsastillmoreimportantpart;——itgiveswhat,inthelanguageofthekitchen,iscalledlightness——Itisasubstituteforeggs,andnothingbuteggscanserveasasubstituteforit,exceptitbetreacle;which,infact,isakindofmolasses;orperhapscoarsebrownsugar,whichhasnearlythesameproperties——Itpreventsthepuddingfrombeingheavy,andclammy;andwithoutcommunicatingtoitanydisagreeablesweettaste,oranythingofthatflavourpeculiartomolasses,givesitarichnessuncommonlypleasingtothepalate。Andtothiswemayadd,thatitisnutritiveinaveryextraordinarydegree——Thisisafactwellknowninallcountrieswheresugarismade。
Howfarthelawsandregulationsoftradeexistinginthiscountrymightrenderitdifficulttoprocuremolassesfromthoseplaceswhereitmaybehadatthecheapestrate,Iknownot;——norcanItellhowfarthefreeimportationofitmightbedetrimentaltoourpublicfinances;——Icannot,however,helpthinking,thatitissogreatanobjecttothiscountrytokeepdownthepricesofprovisions,orrathertocheckthealarmingceleritywithwhichtheyarerising,thatmeansoughttobefoundtofacilitatetheimportation,andintroductionintocommonuse,ofanarticleofFoodofsuchextensiveutility。Itmightservetocorrectinsomemeasure,thebalefulinfluenceofanotherarticleofforeignproduce,tea,whichisdoinginfiniteharminthisisland。
ApointofgreatimportanceinpreparinganIndianpudding,istoboilitPROPERLYandSUFFICIENTLY。Thewatermustbeactuallyboilingwhenthepuddingisputintoit;anditnevermustbesufferedtoceaseboilingforamoment,tillitisdone;andifthepuddingisnotboiledfullsixhours,itwillnotbesufficientlycooked——Itshardness,whendone,willdependonthespaceleftinthebagitsexpansion。Theconsistencyofthepuddingoughttobesuch,thatitcanbetakenoutofthebagwithoutfallingtopieces;——butitisalwaysbetter,onmanyaccounts,tomakeittoohardthantoosoft。Theformofthepuddingmaybethatofacylinder;ofratherofatruncatedcone,thelargestendbeingtowardsthemouthofthebag,inorderthatitmaybegotoutofthebagwithgreaterfacility;oritmaybemadeofaglobularform,bytyingitupinanapkin——Butwhateveristheformofthepudding,thebag,ornapkininwhichitistobeboiled,mustbewetinboilingwaterbeforethepudding,whichisquiteliquidbeforeitisboiled,ispouredintoit;otherwiseitwillbeapttorunthroughthecloth。
Thoughthispuddingissogood,perfectlyplain,whenmadeaccordingtothedirectionsheregiven,thatIdonotthingitcapableofanyrealimprovement;yettherearevariousadditionsthatmaybemadetoit,andthatfrequentlyaremadetoit,whichmayperhapsbethoughtbysometorenderitmorepalatable,orotherwisetoimproveit。Suetmay,forinstance,beadded,andthereisnosuetpuddingwhateversuperiortoit;andasnosauceisnecessarywithasuetpudding,theexpenceforthesuetwillbenearlybalancedbythesavingofbutter。Toapuddingofthesizeofthatjustdescribed,inthecompositionofwhichthreepoundsofIndianmealwereused,onepoundofsuetwillbesufficient;andthis,ingeneral,willnotcostmorethanfromfivepencetosixpence,eveninLondon;——andthebutterforsaucetoaplainpuddingofthesamesizewouldcostnearlyasmuch。Thesuetpuddingwillindeedberatherthecheapestofthetwo,forthepoundofsuetwilladdapoundinweighttothepudding;——whereasthebutterwillonlyaddfiveounces。
Asthepudding,madeplain,weighing101/16lb。cost53/8pence,thesamepudding,withtheadditionofonepoundofsuet,wouldweigh111/16lb。andwouldcost111/8pence,——reckoningthesuetatsixpencethepound——HenceitappearsthatIndiansuetpuddingmaybemadeinLondonforaboutonepennyapound。
Wheatenbread,whichisbynomeanssopalatable,andcertainlynothalfsonutritive,nowcostssomethingmorethanthreepencethepound:andtothismaybeadded,thatdrybreadcanhardlybeeatenalone;butofsuetpuddingaverycomfortablemealmaybemadewithoutanythingelse。
ApuddingingreatreputeinallpartsofNorthAmerica,iswhatiscalledanapplepudding。ThisisanIndianpudding,sometimeswith,andsometimeswithoutsuet,withdriedcuttingsofsweetapplesmixedwithit;andwheneatenwithbutter,itismostdeliciousFood。Theseapples,whichareparedassoonastheyaregatheredfromthetree,andbeingcutintosmallpieces,arefreedfromtheircores,andthoroughlydriedinthesun,maybekeptgoodforseveralyears。Theproportionsoftheingredientsusedinmakingtheseapplepuddingsarevarious;but,ingeneral,aboutonepoundofdriedapplesismixedwiththreepoundsofmeal,——threequartersofapoundofmolasses,——halfanounceofsalt,andfivepintsofboilingwater。
InAmerica,variouskindsofberries,foundwildinthewoods,suchashuckle-berries,belberries,whortle-berries,etc。aregatheredanddried,andafterwardsusedasingredientsinIndianpuddings:anddriedcherriesandplumsmaybemadeuseofinthesamemanner。
AlltheseIndianpuddingshavethisadvantageincommon,thattheyareverygoodWARMEDUP——Theywillallkeepgoodseveraldays;andwhencutintothinslicesandtoasted,areanexcellentsubstituteforbread。
Itwilldoubtlessberemarked,thatincomputingtheexpenceofprovidingthesedifferentkindsofpuddings,Ihavetakennonoticeoftheexpencewhichwillbenecessaryforfueltocookthem——Thisisanarticlewhichoughtundoubtedlytobetakenintotheaccount。Thereasonofmynotdoingithereisthis:——
Having,inthecourseofmyExperimentsonHeat,foundmeanstoperformallthecommonoperationsofcookerywithasurprisinglysmallexpenceoffuel,Ifindthattheexpenceinquestion,whentheproperarrangementsaremadeforsavingfuel,willbeverytrifling。Andfarther,asImeansoontopublishmyTreatiseontheManagementofHeat,inwhichIshallgivethemostampledirectionsrelativetothemechanicalarrangementsofkitchenfire-places,andthebestformsforallkindsofkitchenutensils,IwasdesirousnottoanticipateasubjectwhichwillmorenaturallyfinditsplaceinanotherEssay——InthemeantimeI
wouldobserve,forthesatisfactionofthosewhomayhavedoubtsrespectingthesmallnessoftheexpencenecessaryforfuelincookingforthePoor,thattheresultofmanyexperiments,ofwhichIshallhereafterpublishaparticularaccount,hasprovedinthemostsatisfactorymanner,thatwhenFoodispreparedinlargequantities,andcookedinkitchensproperlyarranged,theexpenseforfueloughtnevertoamounttomorethantwopercent。
ofthecostoftheFood,evenwherevictualsofthecheapestkindareprovided,suchasiscommonlyusedinfeedingthePoor。
InthePublicKitchenoftheHouseofIndustryatMunichtheexpenceforfuelislessthanonepercent。ofthecostoftheFood,asmaybeseeninthecomputation,page206,ChapterIII。
ofthisEssay:anditoughtnottobegreaterinmanypartsofGreatBritain。
WithregardtothepriceatwhichIndianCorncanbeimportedintothiscountryfromNorthAmericaintimeofpeace,thefollowinginformation,whichIprocuredthroughthemediumofafriend,fromCaptainScott,amostworthyman,whohasbeenconstantlyemployedabovethirtyyearsasmasterofashipinthetradebetweenLondonandBostonintheStateofMassachusetts,willdoubtlessbeconsideredasauthentic[19]。
Thefollowingarethequestionswhichwereputtohim,——withhisanswerstothem:
Q。Whatisthefreight,perton,ofmerchandisefromBostoninNorthAmericatoLondonintimeofpeace?——A。Fortyshillingssterling。
Q。Whatisthefreight,perbarrel,ofIndianCorn?——A。Fiveshillings。
Q。Howmuchpercent。ispaidforinsurancefromBostontoLondonintimeofpeace?——A。Twopercent。
Q。WhatisthemediumpriceofIndianCorn,perbushel,inNewEngland?——A。Twoshillingsandsixpence。
Q。Whatisthepriceofitatthistime?——A。Threeshillingsandsixpence。
Q。HowmanybushelsofIndianCornarereckonedtoabarrel?——
A。FourFromthisaccountitappearsthatIndianCornmight,intimeofpeace,beimportedintothiscountryandsoldhereforlessthanfourshillingsthebushel;——andthatitoughtnottocostatthismomentmuchmorethanfiveshillingsabushel。
Ifitbeimportedincasks,whichiscertainlythebestwayofpackingit,asthefreightofabarrelcontainingfourbushelsisfiveshillings,thisgives1s。3d。abushelforfreight;andifweaddonepennyabushelforinsurance,thiswillmaketheamountoffreightandinsurance1s。4d。which,addedtotheprimecostoftheCorninAmerica,2s。6d。perbushelinthetimeofpeace,and3s。6d。atthistime,willbringitto3s。10d。perbushelintimeofpeace,and4s。10datthispresentmoment。
AbushelofIndianCornofthegrowthofNewEnglandwasfoundtoweigh61lb。;butwewillsupposeittoweighatamediumonly60
lb。perbushel;andwewillalsosupposethattoeachbushelofCornwhengroundthereis9lb。ofbran,whichissurelyaverylargeallowance,and1lb。ofwasteingrindingandsifting;——
thiswillleave50lb。offlourforeachbusheloftheCorn;
andasitwillcost,intimeofpeace,only3s。10d。or46pence,thisgivesforeachpoundofflour46/50ofapenny,or33/4
farthingsverynearly。
IfthepriceoftheIndianCornperbushelbetakenat4s。10d。
whatitoughttocostatthistimeinLondon,withoutanybountyonimportationbeingbroughtintotheaccount,——thepriceoftheflourwillbe4s。10dequalto58pencefor50lb。inweight,or11/6pennythepound,whichislessthanonethirdofthepresentpriceofwheatflour。Rice,whichiscertainlynotmorenourishingthanIndianCorn,costs41/2pencethepound。
If1/13ofthevalueofIndianCornbeaddedtodefraytheexpenceofgrindingit,thepriceoftheflourwillnoteventhenbegreaterinLondonthanonepennythepoundintimeofpeace,andaboutonepennyfarthingatthepresenthighpriceofthatgraininNorthAmerica。Henceitappears,thatinstatingthemeanpriceinLondonoftheflourofIndianCornatonepennyfarthing,Ihaveratherratedittoohighthantoolow。
Withregardtotheexpenseofimportingit,theremaybe,anddoubtlesstherearefrequentlyotherexpencesbesidesthoseoffreightandinsurance;but,ontheotherhand,averyconsiderablepartoftheexpencesattendingtheimportationofitmaybereimbursedbytheprofitsarisingfromthesaleofthebarrelsinwhichitisimported,asIhavebeeninformedbyapersonwhoimportsiteveryyear,andalwaysavailshimselfofthatadvantage。
OnecircumstancemuchinfavouroftheintroductionofIndianCornintocommonuseinthiscountryisthefacilitywithwhichitmaybehadinanyquantity。Itgrowsinallquartersoftheglobe,andalmostineveryclimate;andinhotcountriestwoorthreecropsofitmayberaisedfromthesamegroundinthecourseofayear——ItsucceedsequallywellinthecoldregionsofCanada;——inthetemperateclimesoftheUnitedStatesofAmerica;——andintheburningheatsofthetropics;anditmightbehadfromAfricaandAsiaaswellasfromAmerica。Andwereiteventrue,——whatInevercanbepersuadedtobelieve,——thatitwouldbeimpossibletointroduceitasanarticleofFoodinthiscountry,itmightatleastbeusedasfodderforcattle,whoseaversiontoit,Iwillventuretosay,wouldnotbefoundtobeUNCONQUERABLE。
Oatsnowcostneartwopencethepoundinthiscountry。
IndianCorn,whichwouldcostbutalittlemorethanhalfasmuch,wouldcertainlybemuchmorenourishing,evenforhorses,aswellasforhornedcattle;——andasforhogsandpoultry,theyoughtnevertobefedwithanyothergrain。ThosewhohavetastedtheporkandthepoultryfattedonIndianCornwillreadilygivetheirassenttothisopinion。
CHAPTER。VII。
ReceiptsforpreparingvariousKindsofcheapFood。
OfMACCARONI。
OfPOTATOES。
Approvedreceiptsforboilingpotatoes。
Ofpotatoepuddings。
Ofpotatoedumplings。
Ofboiledpotatoeswithasauce。
Ofpotatoesalad。
OfBARLEY
Ismuchmorenutritiousthanwheat。
Barleymeal,agoodsubstituteforpearlbarley,formakingsoups。
Generaldirectionsforpreparingcheapsoups。
Receiptforthecheapestsoupthatcanbemade。
OfSAMP
MethodofpreparingitIsanexcellentSubstituteforBread。
OfbrownSoup。
OfRYEBREAD。
WhenIbeganwritingtheforegoingChapterofthisEssay,IhadhopesofbeingabletoprocuresatisfactoryinformationrespectingthemannerinwhichthemaccaronieatenbythePoorinItaly,andparticularlyinthekingdomofNaples,isprepared;——
butthoughIhavetakenmuchpainsinmakingtheseinquiries,mysuccessinthemhasnotbeensuchasIcouldhavewished:——
Theprocess,Ihaveoftenbeentold,isverysimple;andfromtheverylowpriceatwhichmaccaroniissold,readycooked,totheLazzaroniinthestreetsofNaples,itcannotbeexpensive——
ThereisabetterkindofmaccaroniwhichispreparedandsoldbythenunsinsomeoftheconventsinItaly,whichismuchdearer;
butthissortwouldinanycountrybetooexpensivetobeusedasFoodforthePoor——ItishowevernotdearerthanmanykindsofFoodusedbythePoorinthiscountry;andasitisverypalatableandwholesome,andmaybeusedinavarietyofways,areceiptforpreparingitmayperhapsnotbeunacceptabletomanyofmyreaders。
AReceiptformakingthatKindofMaccaronicalledinItalyTAGLIATI。
Takeanynumberoffresh-laideggsandbreakthemintoabowlortray,beatthemupwithaspoon,butnottoafroth,——addofthefinestwheatflourasmuchasisnecessarytoformadoughoftheconsistenceofpaste——Workthispastewellwitharolling-pin;——
rollitoutintoverythinleaves;——laytenortwelveoftheseleavesoneupontheother,andwithasharpknifecutthemintoveryfinethreads——Thesethreadswhich,ifthemassisofaproperconsistency,willnotadheretoeachotheraretobelaidonacleanboard,oronpaper,anddriedintheair。
Thismaccaroni,orcutpasteasitiscalledinGermany,whereitisingreatrepute,maybeeateninvariousways;butthemostcommonwayofusingitistoeatitwithmilkinsteadofbread,andwithchickenbroth,andotherbrothsandsoups,withwhichitisboiled。Withpropercareitmaybekeptgoodformanymonths。Itissometimesfriedinbutter,andinthiswayofcookingit,itformsamostexcellentdishindeed;inferior,Ibelieve,tonodishofflourthatcanbemade。Itisnot,however,averycheapdish,aseggsandbutterarebothexpensivearticlesinmostcountries。
AninferiourkindofcutpasteissometimespreparedbythePoorinGermany,whichismadesimplyofwaterandwheatflour,andthishasmoreresemblancetocommonmaccaronithanthatjustdescribed;andmight,inmanycases,beusedinsteadofit。Idonotthink,however,thatitcanbekeptlongwithoutspoiling;
whereasmaccaroni,asiswellknown,maybekeptgoodforagreatlengthoftime——ThoughIhavenotbeenabletogetanysatisfactoryinformationrelativetotheprocessofmakingmaccaroni,yetIhavemadesomeexperimentstoascertaintheexpenseofcookingit,andofthecostofthecheesenecessaryforgivingitarelish。
Halfapoundofmaccaroni,whichwaspurchasedatanItalianshopinLondon,andwhichcosttenpence[20],wasboiledtillitwassufficientlydone,namely,aboutonehourandanhalf,when,beingtakenoutoftheboilingwaterandweighed,itwasfoundtoweighthirty-oneouncesandanhalf,oronepoundfifteenouncesandanhalf。Thequantityofcheeseemployedtogivearelishtothisdishofboiledmaccaroni,andwhichwasgratedoveritafteritwasputintothedish,wasoneounce,andcosttwofarthings。
MaccaroniisconsideredasverycheapFoodinthosecountrieswhereitispreparedinthegreatestperfection,andwhereitisincommonuseamongthelowerclassesofsociety;andaswheat,ofwhichgrainitisalwaysmade,isastaplecommodityinthiscountry,itwouldcertainlybeworthwhiletotakesometroubletointroducethemanufactureofit,particularlyasitisalreadybecomeanarticleofluxuryuponthetablesoftherich,andasgreatquantitiesofitareannuallyimportedandsoldhereatamostexorbitantprice[21]:——ButmaccaroniisbynomeansthecheapestFoodthatcanbeprovidedforfeedingthePoor,inthisisland;——nordoIbelieveitissoinanycountry——Polenta,orIndianCorn,ofwhichsomuchhasalreadybeensaid,——
andPotatoes,ofwhichtoomuchcannotbesaid,——arebothmuchbetteradapted,inallrespects,forthatpurpose——Maccaroniwouldhowever,Iampersuaded,coulditbepreparedinthiscountry,bemuchlessexpensivethanmanykindsofFoodnowcommonlyusedbyourPoor;andconsequentlymightbeofconsiderableusetothem。
WithregardtoPotatoestheyarenowsogenerallyknownandtheirusefulnessissouniversallyacknowledged,thatitwouldbeawasteoftimetoattempttorecommendthem——Ishallthereforecontentmyselfwithmerelygivingreceiptsforafewcheapdishesinwhichtheyareemployedasaprincipalingredient。
ThoughthereisnoarticleusedasFoodofwhichagreatervarietyofwell-tastedandwholesomedishesmaybepreparedthanofpotatoes,yetitseemstobetheunanimousopinionofthosewhoaremostacquaintedwiththeseusefulvegetables,thatthebestwayofcookingthemistoboilthemsimply,andwiththeirskinson,inwater——Butthemannerofboilingthemisbynomeansamatterofindifference——ThisprocessisbetterunderstoodinIreland,wherebymuchthegreaterpartoftheinhabitantslivealmostentirelyonthisFood,thananywhereelse。
Thisiswhatmighthavebeenexpected;——butthosewhohaveneverconsideredwithattentiontheextremeslownessoftheprogressofnationalimprovements,WHERENOBODYTAKESPAINSTOACCELERATE
THEM,willdoubtlessbesurprisedwhentheyaretoldthatinmostpartsofEngland,thoughtheuseofpotatoesalloverthecountryhasforsomanyyearsbeengeneral,yet,tothishour,few,comparatively,whoeatthem,knowhowtodressthemproperly——
Theinhabitantsofthosecountrieswhichlieonthesea-coastoppositetoIrelandhaveadoptedtheIrishmethodofboilingpotatoes;butitismorethanprobablethatacenturyatleastwouldhavebeenrequiredforthoseimprovementstohavemadetheirwaythroughtheisland,hadnotthepresentalarmsonaccountofascarcityofgrainrousedthepublic,andfixedtheirattentionuponasubjecttoolongneglectedinthisenlightenedcountry。
Theintroductionofimprovementstendingtoincreasethecomfortsandinnocentenjoymentsofthatnumerousandusefulclassofmankindwhoearntheirbreadbythesweatoftheirbrow,isanobjectnotmoreinterestingtoabenevolentmindthanitisimportantintheeyesofanenlightenedstatesman。
Thereare,withoutdoubt,GREATMENwhowillsmileatseeingtheseobservationsconnectedwithasubjectsohumbleandobscureastheboilingofpotatoes,butGOODMENwillfeelthatthesubjectisnotunworthyoftheirattention。
Thefollowingdirectionsforboilingpotatoes,whichIhavecopiedfromalateReportoftheBoardofAgriculture,Icanrecommendfrommyownexperience:
OntheboilingofPotatoessoastobeeatasBread。
ThereisnothingthatwouldtendmoretopromotetheconsumptionofpotatoesthantohavethepropermodeofpreparingthemasFoodgenerallyknown——InLondon,thisislittleattendedto;
whereasinLancashireandIrelandtheboilingofpotatoesisbroughttoverygreatperfectionindeed。Whenpreparedinthefollowingmanner,ifthequalityoftherootisgood,theymaybeeatasbread,apracticenotunusualinIreland——Thepotatoesshouldbe,asmuchaspossible,ofthesamesize,andthelargeandsmallonesboiledseparately——Theymustbewashedclean,and,withoutparingorscraping,putinapotwithcoldwater,notsufficienttocoverthem,astheywillproducethemselves,beforetheyboil,aconsiderablequantityoffluid——Theydonotadmitbeingputintoavesselofboilingwaterlikegreens——
Ifthepotatoesaretolerablylarge,itwillbenecessary,assoonastheybegintoboil,tothrowinsomecoldwater,andoccasionallytorepeatit,tillthepotatoesareboiledtotheheart,whichwilltakefromhalfanhourtoanhourandaquarter,accordingtotheirsize,theywillotherwisecrack,andbursttopiecesontheoutside,whilsttheinsidewillbenearlyinacrudestate,andconsequentlyveryunpalatableandunwholesome——Duringtheboiling,throwinginalittlesaltoccasionallyisfoundagreatimprovement,anditiscertainthattheslowertheyarecookedthebetter——Whenboiled,pouroffthewater,andevaporatethemoisture,byreplacingthevesselinwhichthepotatoeswereboiledoncemoreoverthefire——
Thismakesthemremarkablydryandmealy——Theyshouldbebroughttothetablewiththeskinson,andeatwithalittlesalt,asbread——Nothingbutexperiencecansatisfyanyonehowsuperiorthepotatoeis,thusprepared,ifthesortisgoodandmeally——Somepreferroastingpotatoes;butthemodeabovedetailed,extractedpartlyfromtheinterestingpaperofSamuelHayes,Esquire,ofAvondale,inIreland,ReportontheCultureofPotatoes,P。103。,andpartlyfromtheLancashirereprintedReportp。63。,andothercommunicationstotheBoard,isatleastequal,ifnotsuperior——Somehavetriedboilingpotatoesinsteam,thinkingbythatprocessthattheymustimbibelesswater——Butimmersioninwatercausesthedischargeofacertainsubstance,whichthesteamaloneisincapableofdoing,andbyretainingwhich,theflavouroftherootisinjured,andtheyafterwardsbecomedrybybeingputoverthefireasecondtimewithoutwater——Withalittlebutter,ormilk,offish,theymakeanexcellentmess。
Thesedirectionsaresoclear,thatitishardlypossibletomistakethem;andthosewhofollowthemexactlywillfindtheirpotatoessurprisinglyimproved,andwillbeconvincedthatthemannerofboilingthemisamatterofmuchgreaterimportancethanhashithertobeenimagined。
Werethismethodofboilingpotatoesgenerallyknownincountrieswherethesevegetablesareonlybeginningtomaketheirwayintocommonuse,——asinBavaria,forinstance,——Ihavenodoubtbutitwouldcontributemorethananythingelsetotheirspeedyintroduction。
Thefollowingaccountofanexperiment,latelymadeinoneoftheparishesofthismetropolisLondon,wascommunicatedtomebyafriend,whohaspermittedmetopublishit——Itwillservetoshow,——whatIammostanxioustomakeappear,——thattheprejudicesofthePoorinregardtotheirFoodARENOT