AnothermanwhomIsawfromtimetotimeduringthisperiodwastheVice—President，Mr。Stevenson。IfirstmethimatapublicdinnerinNewYork，wherewesatsidebyside;butwemerelytalkedongeneralities。ButthenexttimeImethimwasatadinnergivenbytheSecretaryofWar，andthereIfoundthathewasoneofthemostadmirableraconteursIhadevermet。Afteraseriesofadmirablestories，oneofthepartysaidtome:\"Hecouldtelljustasgoodstoriesasthoseforthreeweeksrunningandneverrepeathimself。\"
OneofthesestoriesbytheVice—President，iftrue，threwacuriouslightovertherelationsofPresidentLincolnwiththreemenverydistinguishedinAmericanannals。Itwasasfollows:Oneday，shortlybeforetheissueoftheEmancipationProclamation，avisitor，findingMr。Lincolnevidentlyinmelancholymood，saidtohim，\"Mr。President，Iamsorrytofindyounotfeelingsowellasatmylastvisit。\"Mr。Lincolnreplied:\"Yes，Iamtroubled。OnedaythebestofourfriendsfromtheborderStatescomeinandinsistthatIshallnotissueanEmancipationProclamation，andthat，ifIdoso，theborderStateswillvirtuallycastintheirlotwiththeSouthernConfederacy。
Anotherday，CharlesSumner，ThadStevens，andBenWadecomeinandinsistthatifIdonotissuesuchaproclamationtheNorthwillbeutterlydiscouragedandtheUnionwrecked，——and，bytheway，thesethreemenarecominginthisveryafternoon。\"Atthismomenthisexpressionchanged，hiscountenancelightedup，andhesaidtothevisitor，whowasfromtheWest，\"Mr。————，didyouevergotoaprairieschool？\"\"No，\"saidthevisitor，\"Ineverdid。\"\"Well，\"saidMr。Lincoln，\"Idid，anditwasaverypoorschool，andwewereverypoorfolks，——toopoortohaveregularreading—books，andsowebroughtourBiblesandreadfromthem。
OnemorningthechapterwasfromtheBookofDaniel，andalittleboywhosatnextmewentallwronginpronouncingthenamesofShadrach，Meshach，andAbednego。Theteacherhadgreatdifficultyinsettinghimright，andbeforehesucceededwasobligedtoscoldtheboyandcuffhimforhisstupidity。Thenestversecametome，andsothechapterwentalongdowntheclass。Presentlyitstartedonitswayback，andsoonafterInoticedthatthelittlefellowbegancrying。OnthisIaskedhim，’What’sthematterwithyou？’andheanswered，’Don’tyousee？Themthreemiserablecussesarecomingbacktomeagain。’\"
IalsoatthatperiodmadetheacquaintanceofSenatorGrayofDelaware，whoseemedtomeideallyfittedforhispositionasamemberoftheUpperHouseinCongress。SpeakerReedalsomadeagreatimpressionuponmeasamanofhonesty，lucidity，andforce。TheSecretaryofState，Mr。Olney，Isawfrequently，andwasalwaysimpressedbythesortofbulldogtenacitywhichhadgainedhisvictoryoverLordSalisburyinthearbitrationmatter。
ButtogiveeventhemosthastysketchofthemembersoftheSupremeCourt，thecabinet，andofbothhousesofCongresswhomI
metwouldrequiremoretimethanisatmydisposal。
ThisstayinWashingtonIenjoyedmuch。Ourcapitalcityisbecomingtheseatofarefinedhospitalitywhichmakesitmoreandmoreattractive。Timewas，andthatnotverylongsince，whenitwaslookeduponasaplaceofexilebydiplomatists，andasrepulsivebymanyofourcitizens;butallthatisofthepast:
thecourtesyshownbyitsinhabitantsisrapidlychangingitsreputation。
Perhaps，ofallthesocialenjoymentsofthattime，themostattractivetomewasanexcursionoftheAmericanGeographicalSocietytoMonticello，thefinalresidenceofPresidentJefferson。Yearsbefore，whilevisitingtheUniversityofVirginiaatCharlottesville，IhadbeenintenselyinterestedinthatcreationofMr。Jeffersonandinthesurroundingsofhishome;butthepresentoccupantofMonticello，havingbeengreatlyannoyedbyvisitors，wasunderstoodtobereluctanttoallowanystrangertoenterthemansion，andIwouldnotintrudeuponhim。
Butnowhouseandgroundswerefreelythrownopen，anduponadelightfulday。ThehouseitselfwasabeautifuladaptationofthearchitecturewhichhadreacheditsbestdevelopmentatthetimeofJefferson’sstayinFrance;andthedecorations，likethosewhichIhadnotedyearsbeforeinsomeoftheroomsoftheuniversity，wereofanexquisiteLouisSeizecharacter。
Jefferson’speculiarities，also，cameoutinvariouspartsofthehouse。Perhapsthemostsingularwashisbed，occupyingthewholespaceofanarchwaybetweentworooms，oneofwhich，ontheleft，servedasadressing—roomforhim，andtheother，ontheright，forMrs。Jefferson;and，therebeingnocommunicationbetweenthemsavebyalongcircuitthroughvariousrooms，itwasevidentthattheex—Presidenthadmadeuphismindthathewouldnothavehisintimatebelongingsinterferedwithbyanyofthewomenofthehousehold，notevenbyhiswife。
Butmostattractiveofallwastheviewthroughthevalleysandovertheneighboringhillsaswesatatourpicnic—tablesonthelawn。HavingreadwithcareeverylineofJefferson’sletterseverpublished，andsomewritingsofhiswhichhaveneverbeenprinted，myimaginationwasvivid。Itenabledmetoseehimwalkingthroughtheroomsandovertheestate，receivingdistinguishedguestsundertheportico，discussingwiththemathisdinner—tablethegreatquestionsoftheday，andpromulgatinghistheories，someofwhichweresobeneficentandotherssonoxious。
Theonlysadpartofthisvisitwastonotethedestruction，bythefirenotlongbefore，ofthecolumnsinfrontoftherotundaoftheuniversity。Iespeciallymournedoverthecalcinedremainsoftheircapitals，forintotheseJeffersonhadreallywroughthisownheart。Withapassionforthemodernadaptationofclassicarchitecture，hehadpouredtheveryessenceofhisartisticfeelingsintothem。Helongedtoseeeverystrokewhichhisforeignsculptorsmadeuponthem。Daily，accordingtothechronicleofthetime，herodeovertoseehowtheyprogressed，and，betweenhisvisits，frequentlyobservedthemthroughhistelescope;andnowalltheirworkwasbutcalcinedlimestone。
Fortunately，theburningoftheoldhistoricalbuildingsarousedpublicspirit;largesumsofmoneywerepouredintotheuniversitytreasury;andtheworkwasinprocesswhich，itistobehoped，willrestoretheformerbeautyofthecolonnadeandlargelyincreasethebuildingsandresourcesoftheinstitution。
DuringmyworkuponthecommissionIlearnedtorespectmoreandmorethecalm，steady，imperturbablecharacterofMr。Cleveland。
Ofcoursethesensationalpresshowledcontinually，andthepresswhichwasconsideredespeciallyenlightenedandwhichhadsteadilysupportedhimuptothisperiod，washardlylessbitter;
buthepersevered。Duringtheperiodtakenbythecommissionforitswork，boththeAmericanandBritishpeopleshadtimeforcalmthought。LordSalisbury，especially，hadtimetothinkbetterofit;andwhenheatlastrecededfromhisformerhaughtypositionandacceptedarbitration，Mr。ClevelandandtheStateDepartmentgainedoneofthemosthonorablevictoriesinthehistoryofAmericandiplomacy。
CHAPTERXL
ASAMBASSADORTOGERMANY——1897—1903
Onthe1stofApril，1897，PresidentMcKinleynominatedmeambassadortoBerlin;and，theappointmenthavingbeendulyconfirmedbytheSenate，IvisitedWashingtontoobtaininstructionsandmakepreparations。Oneofthemostimportantofthesepreparationswasthesecuringofasecondsecretaryfortheembassy。Alonglistofapplicantsforthispositionhadappeared，severalwithstrongbackingfrompartymagnates，cabinetofficers，andsenators;but，thoughallofthemseemedexcellentyoungmen，veryfewhadasyetanyexperiencelikelytobeserviceable，andalookoverthelistsuggestedmanymisgivings。TherewasespeciallyneededjustthenatBerlinasecondsecretarypreparedtoaidindisentanglingsundryimportantquestionsalreadybeforetheembassy。Thefirstsecretary，whomnopersonthoughtofdisplacing，wasideallyfittedforhisplace——infact，wasfittedforanypostinthediplomaticservice;butasecondsecretarywasneededtotake，asanexpert，amassofworkonquestionsrelatingtocommerceandmanufactureswhichwerejustthenarisingbetweenthetwonationsinshapesnewandeventhreatening。
Whilethewholematterwasunderadvisement，thereappearedayoungmanfromOhio，withnobackingofanysortsavehisrecord。
Hehaddistinguishedhimselfatoneofouruniversitiesasastudentinpoliticaleconomyandinternationallaw;hadthentakenafellowshipinthesamefieldatanotheruniversity;andhadfinallygonetoGermanyandtheretakenhisdegree，hisgraduatingthesisbeingon\"TheCommercialandDiplomaticRelationsbetweentheUnitedStatesandGermany。\"Inpreparingthishehadbeenallowedtoworkupamassofmaterialinourembassyarchives，andhadafterwardexpandedhisthesisintoabookwhichhadgainedhimcredit。Asthemostseriousquestionsbetweenthetwocountrieswerecommercial，heseemedagodsend;
and，goingtothePresident，Istatedthematterfully。Thoughtheyoungmanwasasfaraspossiblefromhavingany\"pull\"intheStatefromwhichhecame，wasnotatallknowneithertothePresidentortheSecretaryofStateorassistantsecretaryofstate，allofwhomcamefromOhio，andwasequallyunknowntoeitheroftheOhiosenatorsortoanyrepresentative，andthoughnothingwhateverwasknownofhispartyaffiliations，thePresident，onhearingastatementofthecase，ignoredallpressureinfavorofrivalcandidates，sentinhisnominationtotheSenate，anditwasdulyconfirmed。
Thenextthingwastheappointmentofamilitaryattache。Thepositionisbynomeansasinecure。Ourgovernmentmustalwaysfeeltheimportanceofreceivingthelatestinformationastothearmiesandnaviesofthegreatpowersoftheworld;andthereforeitisthat，verywisely，ithasattachedmilitaryandnavalexpertstovariousleadingembassies。Itisimportantthatthesebenotonlythoroughlyinstructedandfar—seeing，butgentlemeninthetruestsenseoftheword;andIthereforepresentedagraduateofWestPointwho，havingconductedanexpeditioninAlaskaandservedwithhisregimentontheWesternplainsmostcreditably，haddonedutyasmilitaryattachewithmeduringmymissionatSt。Petersburg，andhadprovedhimself，ineveryrespect，admirable。Thoughhehadnoothersupporteratthenationalcapital，theSecretaryofWar，GovernorAlger，grantedmyrequest，andhewasappointed。
Thesematters，tomanypeopleapparentlytrivial，areherealludedtobecauseitissooftenchargedthatpoliticalconsiderationsoutweighallothersinsuchappointments，andbecausethischargewasfrequentlymadeagainstPresidentMcKinley。Thesimplefactisthat，withthemultitudeofnominationstobemade，theappointingpowercannothavepersonalknowledgeoftheapplicants，andmustasktheadviceofpersonswhohaveknownthemandcan，tosomeextent，beheldresponsibleforthem。Inboththecasesabovereferredto，politicalpressureofthestrongestinfavorofothercandidateswentfornothingagainsttheascertainedinterestofthepublicserviceTheSecretaryofStateatthistimewasMr。JohnSherman。IhadknownhimsomewhatduringhiscareerassenatorandSecretaryoftheTreasury，andhadforhischaracter，abilities，andservicesthemostprofoundrespect。Inowsawhimoften。Hehadbecomesomewhatinfirm，buthismindseemedstillclear;whetherattheStateDepartmentorinsocialcircleshisreminiscencesofpublicmenandaffairswerealwaysinteresting，andoneoftheseconfirmedanopinionIhaveexpressedinanotherchapter。Onenight，atadinner—party，thediscussionhavingfallenuponPresidentAndrewJohnson，andsomeslightingremarkshavingbeenmaderegardinghimbyoneofourcompany，Mr。Sherman，whohadbeenoneofPresidentJohnson’sstrongestopponents，declaredhimamanofpatrioticmotivesaswellasofgreatability，andinsistedthattheRepublicanpartyhadmadeagreatmistakeinattemptingtoimpeachhim。InthecourseoftheconversationoneoftheforemostmembersoftheHouseofRepresentatives，amanofthehigheststandingandcharacter，statedthathehadhimself，whenayoungman，aidedMr。Johnsonassecretary，andthathewasconvincedthattheex—Presidentcouldwriteverylittlemorethanhissignature。Wehadallheardtheoldstorythatafterhehadbecomeofagehisnewlyweddedwifehadtaughthimthealphabet，butitwasknowntoveryfewthatheremainedtothelastsoimperfectlyequipped。
OfconversationswithmanyotherleadingmenofthatperiodatWashingtonIrememberthat，atthehouseofmyfriendDr。Hill，afterwardassistantsecretaryofstate，mentionbeingmadeoftheBlainecampaign，aneminentjusticeoftheSupremeCourtsaidthatMr。BlainealwaysinsistedtotheendofhislifethathehadlostthePresidencyonaccountoftheRev。Dr。Burchard’sfamousalliteration，\"Rum，Romanism，andrebellion，\"andthatthewholewasreallyaDemocratictrick。NeitherthejudgenoranyotherpersonpresentbelievedthatMr。Blaine’sopinioninthismatterwaswellfounded。
AnimportantpartofmybusinessduringthisvisitwastoconferwiththeproperpersonsatWashington，includingtheGermanambassador，BaronvonThielmann，regardingsundrytroublesomequestionsbetweentheUnitedStatesandGermany。TheadditiontotheAmericantariffofadutyagainstthesugarimportsfromeveryothercountryequivalenttothesugarbountyallowedmanufacturesinthatcountryhadledtospecialdifficulties。IthadbeenclaimedbyGermanythatthisadditionaldutywascontrarytothemost—favored—nationclauseinourtreaties;and，unfortunately，thedecisionsonoursidehadbeenconflicting，Mr。Gresham，SecretaryofStateunderMr。Cleveland，havingallowedthattheGermancontentionwasright，andhissuccessor，Mr。Olney，havingpresentedanelaborateargumenttoshowthatitwaswrong。Onthispoint，conversations，notonlywiththeSecretaryofStateandtheGermanambassador，butwithleadingmembersofthecommitteesofCongresshavingthetariffincharge，andespeciallywithMr。AllisonandMr。AldrichoftheSenateandGovernorDingleyoftheHouse，showedmethatthecasewascomplicated，thevariousinterestssomewhatexcitedagainsteachother，andthatmyworkindealingwiththemwastobetrying。
Therewerealsoseveralotherquestionsnolessdifficult，thoserelatingtotheexportationofAmericanproductstoGermanyandthetroublesalreadybrewinginSamoabeingespeciallyprominent;
sothatitwaswithanythingbutaneasyfeelingthat，onthe29thofMay，IsailedfromNewYork。
Onthe12thofJuneIpresentedthePresident’sletterofcredencetotheEmperorWilliamII。Themoreimportantofmynewrelationstothesovereignhadgivenmenomisgivings;forduringmystayinBerlinasminister，eighteenyearsbefore，Ihadfoundhimverycourteous，hebeingthentheheirapparent;butwiththeceremonialpartitwasotherwise，andtothatIlookedforwardalmostwithdismay。
For，sincemystayinBerlin，thelegationhadbeenraisedtoanembassy。IthadbeenjustlythoughtbyvariouspatrioticmembersofCongressthatitwasincompatible，eitherwiththedignityortheinterestsofsogreatanationasours，toberepresentedsimplybyaministerplenipotentiary，who，whencallingattheForeignOfficetotransactbusiness，mightbeobligedtowaitforhours，andevenuntilthenextday，whilerepresentativesfrommuchlessimportantcountrieswhorankedasambassadorswentinatonce。Thechangewasgood，butinmakingitCongresstooknothoughtofsomethingswhichoughttohavebeenprovidedfor。OftheseIshallspeaklater;butasregardsthepresentation，thetryingfeaturetomewasthattherewasagreatdifferencebetweenthisandanyceremonialwhichIhadpreviouslyexperienced，whetherascommissioneratSantoDomingoandParis，orasministeratBerlinandSt。Petersburg。Atthepresentationofaministerplenipotentiaryhegoesinhisowncarriagetothepalaceatthetimeappointed;isusheredintothepresenceofthesovereign;deliverstohim，withsomesimplespeech，theautographletterfromthePresident;andthen，afterakindlyanswer，allisfinished。Butanambassadordoesnotescapesoeasily。Underafictionofinternationallawheisregardedasthedirectrepresentativeofthesovereignpowerofhiscountry，andistreatedinsomesenseassuch。Thereforeitwasthat，atthetimeappointed，ahighpersonageofthecourt，infulluniform，appearedatmyhotelaccompaniedbyvariousotherfunctionaries，withthreecourtcarriages，attendants，andoutriders，deputedtoconductmetothepalace。Havingbeenescortedtothefirstofthecarriages，——myself，inplaincitizen’sdress，onthebackseat;myescort，ingorgeousuniform，facingme;andmysecretariesandattachesintheothercarriages，——wetookupourmarchinsolemnprocession——carriages，outriders，andall——throughtheWilhelmstrasseandUnterdenLinden。Oneithersidewasagapingcrowd;atthevariouscorpsdegardebodiesoftroopscameoutandpresentedarms;andonourarrivalatthepalacetherewasapresentationofarmsandbeatingofdrumswhich，forthemoment，somewhatabashedme。Itwasanordealmorepicturesquethanagreeable。
ThereceptionbytheEmperorwassimple，courteous，andkindly。
Neitherofusmadeanysetspeech，butwediscussedvariousquestions，makingreferencetoourformermeetingandthechangeswhichhadoccurredsince。AmongthesechangesIreferredtothegreatimprovementinBerlin，whereuponhesaidthathecouldnotthinktheenormousgrowthofmoderncitiesanadvantage。MyanswerwasthatmyreferencewastothehappychangeinthearchitectureofBerlinratherthantoitsgrowthinpopulation;
that，duringmyfirststayinthecity，overfortyyearsbefore，nearlyallthemainbuildingswereofbrickandstucco，whereastherehadnowbeenaremarkablechangefromstuccotostoneandtoamuchnoblerstyleofarchitecture。WealsodiscussedthestandingofGermansinAmericaandtheirrelationstotheUnitedStates。OnmyremarkingthatitwasjusteighteenyearsandonedaysincethefirstEmperorWilliamhadreceivedmeasministerinthatsamepalace，hespokeofvariousthingsinthehistoryoftheinterveningyears;andthenensuedanepisodesuchasIhadhardlyexpected。ForjustbeforeleavingNewYorkmyoldfriendFrederickWilliamHolls，afteradinnerathishouseontheHudson，hadgivenhisguestsexamplesofthemusicwrittenbyFredericktheGreat，andonepiecehadespeciallyinterestedus。
ItwasaduetinwhichMr。Hollsplayedonepartupontheorgan，andhiswifeanotheruponthepiano;andallofusweregreatlyimpressedbythedignityandbeautyofthewhole。IthadbeenbroughttolightandpublishedbythepresentEmperor，andaftertheperformancesomeoneofthepartyremarked，inajocoseway，\"YoushouldexpressourthankstohisMajesty，whenyoumeethim，forthepleasurewhichthismusichasgivenus。\"Ithoughtnothingmoreofthesubjectuntil，justatthecloseoftheconversationabovereferredto，itcameintomymind;andonmymentioningittheEmperorshowedatonceaspecialinterest，discussingthemusicfromvariouspointsofview;andonmytellinghimthatwewereallsurprisedthatitwasnotamateurish，butreallyprofoundinitsharmoniesandbeautifulinitsmelodies，hedweltuponthemusicaldebtofFredericktheGreattoBachandthespecialinfluenceofBachuponhim。Thisconversationrecurredtomelater，whentheEmperor，inerectingthestatuetoFredericktheGreatontheAvenueofVictory，placedononesideofitthebustofMarshalSchwerin，andontheotherthatofJohannSebastianBach，thushonoringthetwomenwhomheconsideredmostimportantduringFrederick’sreign。
Afterpresentingmyembassysecretariesandattaches，militaryandnaval，IwasconductedwiththemintothepresenceoftheEmpress，whowonallourheartsbyherkindly，unaffectedgreeting。OnmyrecallingherentranceintoBerlinasabride，inhergreatglasscoach，seventeenyearsbefore，ononeofthecoldestdaysIeverknew，shegaveamusingdetailsofherstatelyprogressdowntheLindenonthatoccasion;andinresponsetomycongratulationsuponhersixfineboysandherreallycharminglittledaughter，itwaspleasanttoseehow\"Onetouchofnaturemakesthewholeworldkin，\"
hereyeslightingupwithprideandjoy，andherconversationgladlyturningtothechildren。
ItmaybeaddedherethatthepresentEmpressseemstohavebrokentheunfortunatespellwhichforabouthalfacenturyhungoverthequeensandempressesofthehouseofHohenzollern。I
rememberwellthat，amongtheGermanswhomIknewinmyBerlin—Universitydays，allthesinsoftheperiod，politicalandreligious，seemedtobetracedtotheinfluenceofQueenElizabeth，theconsortofthereigningKingFrederickWilliamIV;
andthat，duringmyfirstofficialstayinthesamecapitalasminister，asimilarfeelingwasshowntowardtheEmpressAugusta，inspiteofhermostkindlyqualitiesandherdevotiontoeverysortofcharitablework;andthatthecrownprincess，afterwardtheEmpressFrederick，inspiteofallherendowmentsofheadandheart，wasapparentlymoreunpopularthaneitherofhertwopredecessors。ButthepresentEmpressseemstohavechangedallthis，and，doubtless，mainlybyherdevotiontoherhusbandandherchildren，whichapparentlyexcludesfromhermindallcareforthegreatproblemsoftheuniverseoutsideherfamily。Sostrongisthisfeelingofkindnesstowardherthatitwascomicaltosee，atoneperiodduringmystay，whenshehadbeenbroughtperilouslynearamostunpopularcourseofaction，thateverybodyturnedatonceuponheragentinthematter，sayingnothingabouther，butbelaboringhimunmercifully，thoughhewasoneofthemostattractiveofmen。
Thesepresentationsbeingfinished，ourreturntotheKaiserhofHotelwasmadewiththesameceremonyasthatwithwhichwehadcometothepalace，andhappywasIwhenallwasover。
Oftheotherofficialvisitsatthistime，foremostinimportancewasthattothechancelloroftheempire，PrinceHohenlohe。
Althoughhewasthennearlyeightyyearsoldandbentwithage，hismindindiscussingpublicmatterswasentirelyclear。Variouslaterconversationswithhimalsocomebacktome——one，especially，atadinnerhegaveatthechancellor’spalacetoPresidentHarrison。OnmyrecallingthefactthatwewereintheroomwhereIhadfirstdinedwithBismarck，PrinceHohenlohegaveaseriesofreminiscencesofhisgreatpredecessor，someofthemthrowingastronglightuponhisideasandmethods。Ononeoccasion，atmyowntable，hespokeverythoughtfullyonGermancharacteristics，andoneofhisremarkssurprisedme:itwasthatthebesettingsinoftheGermansisenvy（Neid）;inwhichremarkonemayseeacurioustributetothetenacityoftherace，sinceTacitusjustifiedasimilaropinion。Heseemedrathermelancholy;
buthehadawayofsayingpungentthingsveryeffectively，andoneoftheseattributedtohimbecamewidelyknown。Hewaspubliclyadvocatingahotlycontestedcanalbill，whenanopponentsaid，\"Youwillfindasolidrockinthewayofthismeasure\";towhichthechancellorrejoined，\"WewillthendowiththerockasMosesdid:wewillsmiteitandgetwaterforourcanal。\"
Astothenextvisitofimportance，IwasespeciallygladtofindattheForeignOfficethenewlyappointedminister，Baron（nowCount）vonBulow。Duringthefirstpartofmyformerstay，asminister，IhaddonebusinessattheForeignOfficewithhisfather，andfoundhimineveryrespectamostcongenialrepresentativeoftheGermanGovernment。Itnowappearedthatfatherandsonwereamazinglylikeeachother，notonlyinpersonalmanner，butintheirmodeofdealingwithpublicaffairs。Withthemultitudeoftryingquestionswhichpresseduponmeasambassadorduringnearlysixyears，ithardlyseemspossiblethatIshouldbestillalivewereitnotforthegenial，heartyintercourse，attheForeignOfficeandelsewhere，withCountvonBulow。SundryGermanpapers，indeed，attackedhimasyieldingtomuchtome，andsundryAmericanpapersattackedmeforyieldingtoomuchtohim;butbothofusexertedourselvestodothebestpossible，eachforhisowncountry，andatthesametimetopreservepeaceandincreasegoodfeeling。
Interestingwasittome，frommyfirsttomylastdaysinBerlin，towatchhiminthedischargeofhisgreatduties，especiallyinhisdealingswithhostileforcesinParliament。Nocontrastcouldbemoremarkedthanthatbetweenhismannerandthatofhisgreatpredecessor，theironchancellor。Tobeginwith，nopersonalitiescouldbemoreunlike。Intheplaceofanoldman，big，rumbling，heavy，fiery，minatory，objurgatory，therenowstoodayoungman，quiet，self—possessed，easyinspeech，friendlyinmanner，\"sweetreasonableness\"apparentlyhismaincharacteristic，bubblingattimeswithhumor，quicktoturnalaughonahostilebungler，butnevercruel;promptinreturningaseriousthrust，butnevervenomous。Manyofhisspeechesweremasterpiecesintheirwayofhandlingopponents。AnattackwhichBismarckwouldhavemetwithabludgeon，Bulowparriedwithweaponsinfinitelylighter，butinsomecasesreallymoreeffective。Averygoodexamplewasonanoccasionwhentheoldchargeof\"Byzantinism\"wasflungatthepresentregime，towhichhereplied，notbyahistoricalexcursusorpoliticaldisquisition，butbyhumorouslydeprecatingacomparisonofthegood，kindly，steady—going，hard—workingoldprivycouncilorsandotherstateofficialsofBerlinwithfanatics，conspirators，andassassinswhoplayedleadingpartsatConstantinopleduringthedeclineoftheEasternEmpire。InthemoststormydiscussionsI
neversawhimotherthanserene;underrealprovocationheremainedkindly;morethanonebitteropponenthedisarmedwitharetort;buttherewerenopoisonedwounds。TheGermanParliament，lefttoitself，canhardlybeapeacefulbody。Thelinesofcleavagebetweenpartiesaremany，andsomeofthemareoldchasmsofracialdislikeandabyssesofreligiousandsocialhate;buttheappearanceoftheyoungchancellorathisdeskseemed，evenonthedarkestdays，tobringsunshine。
Occasionally，duringmywalksintheThiergarten，ImethimonhiswaytoParliament;and，nomatterhowpressingpublicbusinessmightbe，hefoundtimetoextendhiswalkandprolongourdiscussions。OnoneofthesewalksIalludedtoahotdebateofthedaybeforeandtohissuavityunderprovocation，whenheanswered:\"Old————，manyyearsago，gavemetwocounsels，andI
havealwaystriedtomindthem。Thesewere:’Neverworry;neverloseyourtemper。’\"
Apetphraseamonghiscriticsisthatheisadiplomatistandnotastatesman。Likesomanyantitheses，thisismisleading。Itmaybejusttosaythathismethodsare，ingeneral，thoseofadiplomatistratherthanofastatesman;butcertainitisthatinvariousdebatesofmytimeheshowedhighstatesmanlikequalities，andnotablyatthebeginningofthewarwithChinaandinsundrylatercontestswiththeagrariansandsocialists。EvenhismuchcriticizedremarkduringtheimbrogliobetweenTurkeyandGreece，picturingGermanyaslayingdownherfluteandretiringfromthe\"EuropeanConcert，\"whichtomanyseemedmerepersiflage，wasthehumorouspresentationofapolicydictatedbystatesmanship。Norwereallhisaddressesmerelylightandhumorous;attimes，whensomedeepsentimenthadbeenstirred，hewaseloquent，risingtotheheightofgreatargumentsandtakingbroadviews。
NooneclaimsthatheisaRichelieu，aWilliamPitt，oraCavour;buttheworkofsuchmenisnotwhattheGermanEmpirejustnowrequires。ThemanneededatpresentistheonewhocankeepthingsGOING，whocanminimizedifferences，resistextremists，turnasidemarplots，soothedoctrinaires，andthusgivethegoodgermsintheempireachancetogrow。Forthisworkitwouldbehardtoimagineabettermanthanthepresentchancellor。HisselectionandretentionbytheEmperorprovethatthepresentmonarchhasinheritedtwoofthebestqualitiesofhisillustriousgrandfather:skillinrecognizingtherightmanandfirmnessinstandingbyhim。
Thenextthingwhichanambassadorisexpectedtodo，aftervisitingthegreatrepresentativesoftheempire，istobecomeacquaintedwiththeofficialworldingeneral。
Buthemustmakeacquaintancewiththeseunderhisownroof。OnhisarrivalheisexpectedtovisittheEmperorandtheprincesofhisfamily，theimperialchancellor，andtheministerofforeignaffairs，butallothersareexpectedtovisithim;hencethemostpressingdutyonmyarrivalwastosecureahouse，and，duringthreemonthsfollowing，allthetimethatIcouldpossiblyspare，andmuchthatIoughtnottohavespared，wasgiventoexcursionsintoallpartsofthecitytofindit。Nohouse，noambassador。Aministerplenipotentiarycanliveduringhisfirstyearinahotelorinaverymodestapartment;anambassadorcannot。Hemusthaveaspacioushousefullyfurnishedbeforehecanreallybeginhisduties;for，asabovestated，oneofthefirstofthesedutiesistomaketheacquaintanceoftheofficialworld，——theministersofthecrown，thediplomaticcorps，themembersoftheImperialParliament，themembersofthePrussianlegislature，theforemostmeninthearmyandnavy，andtheleadersinpubliclifegenerally，——andtothisendhemustgivethreeverylargereceptions，atwhichallthosepersonagesvisithim。Thisisamatterofwhichthecourtitselftakescharge，sofarasinvitingandpresentingtheguestsisconcerned，highcourtofficialsbeingsenttostandbythesideoftheambassadorandambassadressandmaketheintroductionstothem;but，aspreliminarytoallthis，thefirstthingistosecurearesidencefitforsuchreceptionsandforentertainmentsinconnectionwiththem。
UndertherulesofEuropeannationsgenerally，thesereceptionsmustbeheldattheambassador’spermanentresidence;but，unfortunately，suchathingasalargefurnishedapartmentsuitableforaforeignrepresentativeisrarelytobefoundinBerlin。InLondonandParissuchapartmentsarefrequentlyoffered，butinBerlinhardlyever。EveryothernationwhichsendsanambassadortoBerlin——andthesameistrueasregardstheotherlargecapitalsofEurope——ownsasuitablehouse，oratleastholdsalongleaseofacommodiousapartment;but，althoughPresidentClevelandespeciallyrecommendedprovisionforsuchresidenceinoneofhismessages，nothinghasyetbeendonebytheAmericanCongress，andtheconsequenceisthateveryambassadorhastoloseagreatamountofvaluabletime，effort，andmoneyinsecuringproperquarters，whilehiscountrylosesmuchofitsproperprestigeanddignitybyconstantchangesinthelocationofitsembassy，andbythefactthattheAmericanrepresentativeisnotinfrequentlyobligedtotakeuphisresidenceinunfitapartmentsandinanunsuitablepartofthetown。
Afterlookingatdozensofhouses，thechoicewasnarroweddowntotwo;but，asonewasnearlythreemilesfromthecenterofthecity，selectionwasmadeofthelargeapartmentwhichIoccupiedduringnearlyfouryears，andwhichwasboughtfromundermyfeetbyoneofthesmallestgovernmentsinEuropeastheresidenceforitsminister。Immediatelyaftermyleasewassignedtherebegananewseriesoftroubles。EverythingmustbereadyforthethreereceptionsbytheeighthdayofJanuary;and，beingatthemercyofmylandlord，Iwasatagreatdisadvantage。Thoughpayinglargerentfortheapartment，Iwasobliged，atmyownexpense，toputitthoroughlyinorder，introducingelectriclight，perfectingheatingapparatus，gettingwallsandfloorsinorder，anddoingaworldofworkwhich，underothercircumstances，wouldhavebeendonebytheproprietorhimself。Astofurnishing，apeculiardifficultyarose。Berlinfurnishers，asarule，haveonlysamplesinstock，andalongtimeisrequiredforcompletingsets。Myformerexperience，when，asminister，Ihadbeenobligedtogothroughasimilarordeal，hadshownmethattheBerlinmakerscouldneverbereliedupontogettheapartmentfurnishedintime;andthereforeitwasthat，havingsecuredwhatwaspossibleinBerlin，IwasobligedtomakelargepurchasesatDresden，London，andParis，andtohavethefurniturefromthelast—namedcityhurriedontoBerlininspecialwaddedcars，withattendantstoputitinplace。ItwasalaborandcaretowhichnorepresentativeoftheUnitedStatesorofanyotherpoweroughttobesubjected。Thevexationsanddifficultiesseemedunending;butatlastcarpenters，paper—hangers，electric—lightmen，furnituremen，carpet—layers，upholsterers，andthelikeweredrivenfromthehousejustfiveminutesbeforethechancelloroftheempirearrivedtoopenthefirstofthesethreeofficialreceptions。Happilytheyallwentoffwell，andtherebybeganmyacquaintancewiththeleadersinvariousdepartmentsofofficiallife。
Onmysettlingdowntothebusinessoftheembassy，itappearedthatthechangesinpublicsentimentsincemyformerstayasminister，eighteenyearsbefore，weregreatindeed。AtthattimeGermanfeelingwasdecidedlyfriendlytotheUnitedStates。TheGermanshadsidedwithusinourCivilWar，andwehadcomeoutvictorious;wehadsidedwiththemintheirwarof1870—1871，andtheyhadcomeoutvictorious。Butallthiswasnowchanged。
Germanfeelingtowardushadbecomegenerallyadverseand，insomepartsoftheempire，bitterlyhostile。Themaincauseofthiswasdoubtlessourprotectivepolicy。OurMcKinleytariff，whichwasconsideredalmostruinoustoGermanmanufactures，hadbeensucceededbytheDingleytariff，whichwentstillfurther;
andasGermany，inthelastfortyyears，haddevelopedanamazinggrowthofmanufactures，muchbitternessresulted。
Besidesthis，ourcountrywasenabled，byitsvastextentofarableland，aswellasbyitscheapconveyanceandskilfulhandlingoffreights，tosweepintotheGermanmarketsagriculturalproductsofvarioussorts，especiallymeats，andtoundersellthenativeGermanproducers。Thisnaturallyvexedthelandedproprietors，sothatwefinallyhadagainstustwoofthegreatinfluentialclassesintheempire:themanufacturersandthelandowners。
Butthiswasnotall。Theserealdifficultiesweregreatlyincreasedbyfictitiouscausesofillfeeling。Sensationalarticles，letters，telegrams，caricatures，andthelike，sentfromAmericatoGermanyandfromGermanytoAmerica，hadbecomemoreandmoreexasperating，until，atthetimeofmyarrival，therewereinallGermanybuttwonewspapersofrealimportancefriendlytotheUnitedStates。Thesetwojournalscourageouslystoodupforfairnessandjustice，butalltheothersweremoreorlesshostile，andsomebitterlyso。Theonewhich，onaccountofitszealinsecuringnews，Ireadeverymorningwasoftheworst。DuringtheSpanishWaritwasespeciallyvirulent，beingfullofstatementsandargumentstoshowthatcorruptionwasthemaincharacteristicofourgovernment，cowardiceofourarmyandnavy，andhypocrisyofourpeople。Veryedifyingwereitsquasi—philosophicalarticles;andoneofthese，showingthesuperiorityoftheSpanishwomentotheirAmericansisters，especiallyasregardseducation，wasaworkofgenius。TheloveofSpanishwomenforbull—fightswasneatlyglossedover，andvariousabsurdchargesagainstAmericanwomenwereputinthebalanceagainstit。Afewsensationalpressesonoursidewereperhapsworse。VariousnewspapersinAmericarepaidTeutonichostilitybycopiousinsultsdirectedateverythingGerman，andthisarousedtheGermansyetmore。Onejournal，veryinfluentialamongthearistocraticandreligiouspublicofNorthernGermany，regularlypublishedlettersofconsiderableliterarymeritfromitsAmericancorrespondent，inwhicheveryscandalwhichcouldberakedoutoftheguttersofthecities，everycrimeintheremotestvillages，andallfolliesofindividualseverywhere，werekneadedtogetherintostatementsshowingthatourcountrywasthelowestinthescaleofhumancivilization。Thetu—quoqueargumentmighthavebeenusedbyanAmericanwithmucheffect;