ItwasasimplecrmerieintheRuedelaMichodire，alittlewayoutoftheBoulevarddesItaliens;anditssuccesswasduetothefactthatMadameBusque，thekindestoldladyalive，hadlearnedhowtomakesundryAmericandishes，andhadplacedasigninthewindowasfollows:
``AuxAmricains。SpcialitdePumpkinPieetdeBuckwheatCakes。’’Neverwasthereamorejollyrestaurant。Onemetthere，notonlystudentsandartists，butsomeofthemosteminentmeninAmericanpubliclife。Thespecialtiesasgivenonthesign—boardwerewellprepared;andmanywerethelamentationswhenthedearoldmadamedied，andtherestaurant，beingtransferredtoanotherpartofParis，becamepretentiousandfellintooblivion。
Anotheroccurrenceattheexpositiondwellsvividlyinmymemory。Oneday，ingoingthroughtheannexinwhichtherewasashowofdomesticanimals，Istoppedforamomenttolookatawonderfulgoatwhichwastheretethered。
Hewasverylarge，withamajestichead，spreadinghorns，andlong，white，curlybeard。PresentlyapartyofFrenchgentlemenandladies，evidentlyofthehigherclass，camealongandjoinedthecrowdgazingattheanimal。Inafewmomentsoneoftheladies，anxioustohurryon，saidtothelargeanddignifiedelderlygentlemanattheheadoftheparty，``Maisviensdonc’’;towhichheanswered，``Non，laissemoileregarder;celui—lressembletantaubonDieu。’’
Thisremark，whichinGreatBritainortheUnitedStateswouldhavearousedhorrorasblasphemy，wassimplyansweredbyapealoflaughter，andthepartypassedon;
yetIcouldnotbutreflectonthefactthatthisattitudetowardtheSupremeBeingwaspossibleafterafifteenhundredyears’monopolyofteachingbythechurchwhichinsiststhattoitaloneshouldbeintrustedthereligiousinstructionoftheFrenchpeople。
AfterstayingafewweeksattheFrenchcapital，IleftforashorttourinSwitzerland。TheonlyoccurrenceonthisjourneypossiblyworthyofnotewasatthehospiceoftheGreatSt。Bernard。OnadayearlyinSeptemberI
hadwalkedovertheTteNoirewithtwolong—leggedEnglishmen，andhadsotiredmyselfthatthenextmorningIwastoolatetocatchthediligencefromMartigny;
sothat，onawakingtowardnoon，therewasnothingleftformebuttowalk，andIstartedonthatrathertoilsomejourneyalone。Afterploddingupwardsomemilesalongtheroadtowardthehospice，Iwasverywearyindeed，butfeltthatitwouldbedangeroustorest，sincethebanksofsnowonbothsidesoftheroadwouldbesuretogivemeadeadlychill;andIthereforekeptsteadilyon。PresentlyIovertookasmallparty，apparentlyEnglish，alsogoingupthepass;and，atsomedistanceinadvanceofthem，alone，alargewomanwithaverystrikingandevenmasculineface。Ihadcertainlyseenthefacebefore，butwhereIcouldnotimagine。Arrivingfinallyatthehospice，verytired，wewere，aftersomewaiting，invitedouttoagooddinnerbythetwofathersdeputedforthepurpose;andthere，amongtheguests，Iagainsawthelady，andwasagainpuzzledtoknowwhereIhadpreviouslyseenher。Asthedinnerwentonthetwomonksgaveaccountsoflifeatthehospice，rescuesfromavalanches，andthelike，andvariousquestionswereasked;
buttheunknownladysatperfectlystill，utteringnotaword，untilsuddenly，justatthecloseofthedinner，sheputaquestionacrossthetabletooneofthefathers。Itcamealmostlikeapealofthunder—deep，strong，rollingthroughtheroom，startlingallofus，andfairlytakingthebreathawayfromthegoodmonktowhomitwasaddressed;
buthepresentlyrallied，andinaratherfalteringtonemadeanswer。Thatwasall。ButonthisIatoncerecognizedher:itwasFannyKembleButler，whom，yearsbefore，IhadheardinterpretingShakspere。
Whetherthisepisodehadanythingtodowithitornot，Isoonfoundmyselfinratherabadway。Thefatiguesofthetwopreviousdayshadbeentoomuchforme。Ifeltverywretched，andpresentlyoneofthebrotherscameuptomeandaskedwhetherIwasill。IansweredthatI
wastired;whereuponhesaidkindly，``Comewithme。’’
Iwent。Hetookmetoaneat，tidylittlecell;putmeintobedascarefullyasmygrandmotherhadeverdone;tuckedmein;broughtmesomeweak，hottea;andleftmewithvariouskindinjunctions。VeryearlyinthemorningIwasarousedbythesingingofthemonksinthechapel，butdozedonuntileightornineo’clock，when，feelingentirelyrested，Iroseand，afterbreakfast，leftthemonastery，withapartyofnewlymadeAmericanfriends，inasgoodconditionasever，andwithaverygratefulfeelingtowardmyentertainers。AgainstmonksgenerallyImustconfesstoaprejudice;butthememoryofthesebrothersofSt。BernardIstillcherishwitharealaffection。
Stoppingatvariousinterestinghistoricplaces，andespeciallyatEisenach，whenceImadethefirstofmymanyvisitstotheWartburg，IreachedBerlinjustbeforethebeginningoftheuniversityterm，andtheresettledasastudent。So，asIthensupposed，endedmydiplomaticcareerforever。
CHAPTERXXVIII
ASCOMMISSIONERTOSANTODOMINGO——1871
ReturningfromRussiaandGermany，Idevotedmyselfduringthirteenyears，first，tomyprofessorialdutiesattheUniversityofMichigan;next，topoliticaldutiesintheStateSenateatAlbany;and，finally，toorganizingandadministeringCornellUniversity。Butintheearlywinterof1870—71cameaneventwhichdrewmeoutofmyuniversitylifeforatime，andengagedmeagainindiplomaticwork。Whilepursuingtheeventenorofmyway，therecameatelegraphicdespatchfromMr。WilliamOrton，presidentoftheWesternUnionTelegraphCompany，adevotedsupporteroftheadministration，askingmewhetherIhadformedanydefiniteopinionagainsttheannexationoftheislandofSantoDomingototheUnitedStates。Thisquestionsurprisedme。Aproposalregardingsuchanannexationhadbeenforsometimetalkedabout。
ThenewlyelectedPresident，GeneralGrant，havingbeenbesoughtbytheauthoritiesofthatrepublictoproposemeasureslookingtoannexation，hadmadeabriefexamination;andCongresshadpassedalawauthorizingtheappointmentofthreecommissionerstovisittheisland，toexamineandreportuponitsdesirability，fromvariouspointsofview，andtoascertain，asfaraspossible，thefeelingofitsinhabitants;butIhadgivennoattentiontothematter，andthereforeansweredMr。OrtonthatI
hadnoopinion，onewayortheother，regardingit。A
dayortwoafterwardcameinformationthatthePresidenthadnamedthecommission，andinthefollowingorder:
Ex—SenatorBenjaminF。WadeofOhio，AndrewD。
WhiteofNewYork，andSamuelG。HoweofMassachusetts。
Onreceivingnoticeofmyappointment，IwenttoWashington，wasatonceadmittedtoaninterviewwiththePresident，andrarelyhaveIbeenmorehappilydisappointed。
Insteadofthetaciturnmanwho，ashisenemiesinsisted，saidnothingbecauseheknewnothing，hadnevercaredforanythingsavemilitarymatters，andwasentirelyabsorbedinpersonalinterests，Ifoundaquiet，dignifiedpublicofficer，whopresentedthehistoryoftheSantoDomingoquestion，andhisviewregardingit，inamannerlarge，thoughtful，andstatesmanlike。Therewasnospecialpleading;noattemptatconvertingme:
hiswholeeffortseemedgiventostatingcandidlythehistoryofthecasethusfar。
Therewasmuchneedofsuchstatement。Mr。CharlesSumner，theeminentsenatorfromMassachusetts，hadcompletelybrokenwiththePresidentonthisandotherquestions;hadattackedthepolicyoftheadministrationviolently;hadhintedatthesupremacyofunworthymotives;andhadimputedrascalitytomenwithwhomthePresidenthadcloserelations。Heappeared，also，asheclaimed，intheinterestoftherepublicofHaiti，whichregardedwithdisfavoranyacquisitionbytheUnitedStatesofterritoryontheislandofwhichthatquasi—
republicformedapart;andallhisrhetoricandoratorywerebroughttobearagainstthePresident’sideas。IhadlongbeenanadmirerofMr。Sumner，withthefeelingwhichayoungmanwouldnaturallycherishtowardanoldermanofsuchhighcharacterwhohadgivenhimearlyrecognition;andInowapproachedhimwithespecialgratitudeandrespect。ButIsoonsawthathisviewofthePresidentwasprejudiced，andhisestimateofhimselfabnormal。Thoughasenatorofsuchhighstandingandsolonginpublicaffairs，hetookhimselfalmosttooseriously;andtherehadcomeabreakbetweenhim，aschairmanoftheSenateCommitteeonForeignAffairs，andPresidentGrant’sSecretaryofState，Mr。Fish，whohadprovedhimself，asStatesenator，asGovernorofNewYork，asUnitedStatessenator，andnowasSecretaryofState，amanofthehighestcharacterandcapacity。
ThefriendsoftheadministrationclaimedthatithadbecomeimpossibleforittohaveanyrelationswithSenatorSumner;thathedelayed，andindeedsuppressed，treatiesofthegreatestimportance;thathisegotismhadbecomesocolossalthathepracticallyassumedtohimselftheentireconductofforeignaffairs;andthewholematterreachedaclimaxwhen，inalargesocialgathering，Mr。
FishmeetingSenatorSumnerandextendinghishandtohim，thelatterdeliberatelyrejectedthecourtesyandcoldlyturnedaway。
Greatlyadmiringallthesemen，anddeeplyregrettingtheirdivisions，whichseemedsuretoprovemostinjurioustotheRepublicanpartyandtothecountry，IwrotetoMr。GerritSmith，urginghimtocomeatoncetoWashingtonand，asthelifelongfriendofSenatorSumnerandthedevotedsupporterofGeneralGrant，tousehisgreatpowersinbringingthemtogether。Hecameanddidhisbest;
butafewdaysafterwardhesaidtome:``Itisimpossible;
itisabreachwhichcanneverbehealed。’’
Mr。Sumner’sspeechesIhadalwaysgreatlyadmired，andhispleaforinternationalpeace，deliveredbeforeI
wasfairlyoutofmyboyhood，hadmadeadeepimpressionuponme。Stillgreaterwastheeffectofhisspeechesagainsttheextensionofslavery。ItistruethatthesespeecheshadlittledirectinfluenceupontheSenate;buttheycertainlyhadanimmenseeffectuponthecountry，andthiseffectwasincreasedbytheassaultuponhimbyPrestonBrooksofSouthCarolina，whichnearlycosthimhislife，andfromwhichhesufferedphysicallyaslongashelived。HisinfluencewasexercisednotonlyintheSenate，butinhisownhouse。Inhislibraryhediscussed，inaveryinterestingway，themainquestionsofthetime;andathisdinner—tableonemetinterestingmenfromallpartsoftheworld。AtoneofhisdinnersIhadanopportunitytoobserveoneofthedifficultiesfromwhichourcountrysuffersmost——namely，thateasy—goingfacilityinslanderwhichiscertaintobedevelopedintheabsenceofanyeffectivelegalresponsibilityforone’sutterances。AtthetimereferredtotherewaspresentanEnglishmaneminentinparliamentaryandbusinesscircles。Isatnexthim，andnearussatagentlemanwhohadheldasubordinatepositionintheUnitedStatesnavy，butwhowasoutofemployment，andapparentlyforsomereasonwhichmadehimsore。OnbeingaskedbytheEnglishmanwhythefamousAmericanCollinsLineoftransatlanticsteamershadnotsucceeded，thisAmericanburstintoatirade，declaringthatitwasallduetothefactthattheCollinscompanyhadbeenobligedtowasteitsentirecapitalinbribingmembersofCongresstoobtainsubsidies;thatithadsunkallitsfundsindoingthis，andsohadbecomebankrupt。ThisIcouldnotbear，andindignantlyinterposed，statingthesimplefacts——
namely，thattheshipsofthecompanywerebuiltinthemostexpensivemanner，withoutanysufficientdataastotheirchancesofsuccess;thatthecompetitionoftheCunardcompanyhadbeendestructivetothem;that，tocaptheclimax，twooutoftheirfleetoffivehadbeen，atanearlyperiodinthehistoryofthecompany，lostatsea;andI
expressedmycompletedisbeliefinanycauseoffailurelikethatwhichhadbeennamed。Asamatteroffact，theCollinscompany，intheirprideatthebeautyoftheirfirstship，hadsentitupthePotomactoWashingtonandgivenacollationuponittomembersofCongress;butbeyondthistherewasnottheslightestevidenceofanythingofthesortwhichtheslandererofhiscountryhadbroughtforward。
AsregardstheSantoDomingoquestion，ImustconfessthatMr。Sumner’sspeechesdidnotgivememuchlight;
theyseemedtomesimplyacademicorationstingedbyanger。
FardifferentwasitwiththespeechesmadeonthesamesidebySenatorCarlSchurz。Inthemwasarestrainedstrengthofargumentandaphilosophicdealingwiththequestionwhichappealedbothtoreasonandtopatriotism。
HisargumentastothedangerofextendingthedomainofAmericaninstitutionsandtheprivilegesofAmericancitizenshipoverregionsliketheWestIndiescarriedgreatweightwithme;itwasthecalm，thoughtfulutteranceofamanaccustomedtolookatlargepublicquestionsinthelightofhumanhistory，and，whilereasoninguponthemphilosophicallyandeloquently，toobservestrictrulesoflogic。
IalsohadtalkswithvariousleadingmenatWashingtononthegeneralsubject。VeryinterestingwasaneveningpassedwithAdmiralPorterofthenavy，whohadalreadyvisitedSantoDomingo，andwhogavemevaluablepointsastochoosingroutesandsecuringinformation。AnotherpersonwithwhomIhadsomeconversationwasBenjaminFranklinButler，previouslyageneralintheCivilWar，andafterwardgovernorofMassachusetts——amanofamazingabilities，butwithacertainrecklessnessintheuseofthemwhichhadbroughthimintonearlyuniversaldiscredit。HisideasregardingtheannexationofSantoDomingoseemedtoresolvethemselves，afterall，intoafeelingofutterindifference，——hismaineffortbeingtosecurepositionsforoneortwoofhisfriendsasattachsofthecommission。
AtvarioustimesItalkedwiththePresidentonthisandothersubjects，andwasmoreandmoreimpressed，notonlybyhispatriotism，butbyhisability;andasItookleaveofhim，hegavemeonechargeforwhichIshallalwaysreverehismemory。
Hesaid:``Yourdutiesare，ofcourse，imposeduponyoubyCongress;IhavenorightasPRESIDENTtogiveyouinstructions，butasaMANIhavearightinthismatter。YouhavedoubtlessnoticedhintsinCongress，andchargesinvariousnewspapers，thatIamfinanciallyinterestedintheacquisitionofSantoDomingo。Now，asaman，asyourfellow—citizen，Idemandthatonyourarrivalintheisland，youexaminethoroughlyintoallAmericanintereststhere;thatyoustudylandtitlesandcontractswiththeutmostcare;andthatifyoufindanythingwhateverwhichconnectsmeoranyofmyfamilywithanyofthem，youexposemetotheAmericanpeople。’’ThePresidentutteredthesewordsinatoneofdeepearnestness。Ilefthim，feelingthathewasanhonestman;andImayaddthattheclosestexaminationofmenanddocumentsrelatingtotitlesandconcessionsintheislandfailedtorevealanypersonalinterestofhiswhatsoever。
ArrivingnextdayinNewYork，Imettheothercommissioners，withthesecretaries，interpreters，attachs，andvariousmembersofthepresswhowereauthorizedtoaccompanytheexpedition。Mostinterestingofalltomewerethescientificexperts。Itisacuriousexampleofthehappy—go—luckywayswhichprevailsofrequentlyatWashington，thatalthoughtheresolutionsofCongressrequiredthecommissionerstoexamineintotheminingandagriculturalcapacitiesoftheisland，itsmeteorologicalcharacteristics，itsharborsandthepossibilitiesoffortifyingthem，itslandtenures，andamultitudeofothersubjectsdemandingtheaidofexperts，noprovisionwasmadeforanysuchaid，andthethreecommissionersandtheirsecretaries，notoneofwhomcouldbeconsideredasentitledtoholdadecisiveopiniononanyofthesesubjects，weretheonlypersonsexpectedtoconducttheinquiry。Seeingthis，I
representedthemattertothePresident，andreceivedhispermissiontotelegraphtopresidentsofseveralofourleadinguniversitiesaskingthemtosecureforusactiveyoungscientificmenwhowouldbewillingtoserveontheexpeditionwithoutsalary。Theeffortwassuccessful。
HavingsecuredattheSmithsonianInstitutiontwoorthreegoodspecialistsinsundryfields，IobtainedfromHarvard，Yale，Columbia，Cornell，andotheruniversitiestherightsortofmenforvariousotherlinesofinvestigation，andonthe17thofJanuary，1871，weallembarkedonthesteam—frigateTennessee，underthecommandofCommodoreTemple。
Itfelltomylottotakealeadingpartinsendingforthourscientificexpertsintoallpartsoftherepublic。
Fourteendifferentexpeditionswerethusorganizedanddespatched，andthesemadecarefulexaminationsandreportswhichwerewroughtintothefinalreportofthecommission。Itisdoubtfulwhetheranycountrywaseversothoroughlyexaminedinsoshortatime。Onepartyvisitedvariousharborswithreferencetotheirvaluefornavalormilitarypurposes;anothertookasitssubjectthenecessaryfortifications;another，agriculture;another，thecoalsupply;another，thepreciousmetals;another，theprevailingepidemicsanddiseasesofthecountry;whilethecommissionitselfadjournedfromplacetoplace，takingtestimonyonlandtenuresandonthegeneralconditionsanddispositionofthepeople。
Ibecamemuchattachedtomycolleagues。Thefirstofthese，SenatorWadeofOhio，wasbluff，direct，shrewd，andwellpreserved，thoughoverseventyyearsofage。
Hewasaroughdiamond，kindlyinhisjudgmentsunlesshisfeelingofjusticewasinjured;thenhewasimplacable。
Manysayingsofhiswerecurrent，amongthemadryanswertoasenatorfromTexaswho，havingdweltinhigh—
flowndiscourseonthesuperlativecharacteristicsoftheStateherepresented，woundupallbysaying，``AllthatTexasneedstomakeitaparadiseiswaterandgoodsociety，’’
towhichWadeinstantlyreplied，``That’salltheyneedinhell。’’Thenimblenessandshrewdnessofsomepublicmenhefailedtoappreciate。OnhissayingsomethingtomeratherunfavorabletoanotedstatesmanofNewEngland，Iansweredhim，``But，senator，hemadeanadmirableSpeakeroftheHouseofRepresentatives。’’Towhichheanswered，``Sowouldasquirrelifhecouldtalk。’’
Dr。Howewasaverydifferentsortofman——amanofthehighestcultivationandofwideexperience，whohaddevotedhiswholelifetophilanthropicefforts。HehadbeenimprisonedinSpandauforattemptingtoaidthePoles;
hadnarrowlyescapedwithhislifewhilestrugglinginGreeceagainstTurkey;andhadbraveddeathagainandagainwhileaidingthefree—Statemenagainstthepro—
slaverymyrmidonsofKansas。Hetoldmethatofallthesethreeexperiences，heconsideredthelastasbyfarthemostdangerous。Hehadahighsenseofpersonalhonor，andwasdevotedtowhatheconsideredtheinterestsofhumanity。
OurmainresidencewasatthecityofSantoDomingo，andourrelationswiththeleadingofficialsoftherepublicwereexceedinglypleasant。Thepresident，Baez，wasamanofforceandability，and，thoughalightmulatto，hehadnoneofthecharacteristicsgenerallyattributedintheUnitedStatestomenofmixedblood。HehadrathertheappearanceofaswarthySpaniard，andinallhisconductheshowedquietself—reliance，independence，andthetoneofahigh—spiritedgentleman。Hisfamilywasnotedinthehistoryoftheisland，andheldlargeestates，nearthecapitalcity，intheprovinceofAzua。Hehadgonethroughvariousvicissitudes，attimesconqueringinsurgentsandattimesbeingdrivenoutbythem。DuringaportionofhislifehehadlivedinSpain，andhadtherebeenmadeamarshalofthatkingdom。Therewasaquieteleganceinhismannersandconversationwhichwouldhavedonecredittoanystatesmaninanycountry，andhehadgatheredabouthimashiscabinettwoorthreereallysuperiormenwhoappeareddevotedtohisfortunes。IhaveneverdoubtedthathisoverturestoGeneralGrantwerepatriotic。Aslongashecouldremember，hehadknownnothinginhiscountrybutasuccessionofsterilerevolutionswhichhaddestroyedallitsprosperityandnearlyallitspopulation。HetookverymuchtoheartapassageinoneofMr。Sumner’sorationsagainsttheannexationproject，inwhichthesenatorhadspokenofhimasamanwhowishedtosellhiscountry。
Referringtothis，PresidentBaezsaidtome:``HowcouldIsellmycountry？Mypropertyishere;myfamilyishere;myfriendsarehere;allmyinterestsarehere:
howcouldIsellmycountryandrunawayandenjoytheproceedsasMr。SumnerthinksIwishtodo？Mr。Sumnergiveshimselfouttobethefriendofthecoloredrace;butIalsoamacoloredman，’’andwiththatBaezranhishandthroughhiscrisphairandsaid，``Thisleavesnodoubtonthatpoint。’’
WediscussedatvarioustimestheconditionofhiscountryandtherelationswhichhedesiredtoestablishwiththeUnitedStates，andIbecamemoreandmoreconvincedthathisdominantmotiveswerethoseofapatriot。Asamatteroffact，thecountryundertheprevailingsystemwasaruin。WestofitwastherepublicofHaiti，morethantwiceaspopulous，whichfromtimetotimeencroacheduponitsweakersister。InSantoDomingoitselfunderonerevolutionistafteranother，warhadragedovertheentireterritoryoftherepublicyearafteryearforgenerations。Travelingthroughtherepublic，itisasimplefactthatInever，initsentiredomain，sawabridge，aplow，aspade，ashovel，orahoe;theonlyimplementwesawwasthemachete——aheavy，rudeinstrumentwhichservedasaswordinwarandaspadeinpeace。EverywhereamongthemountainsIfoundmagnificentsquaredlogsofthebeautifulmahoganyofthecountryleftjustwheretheteamswhichhadbeendrawingthemhadbeenseizedbyrevolutionists。
Inoneofthelargeinteriortownstherehadbeen，indeed，oneevidenceofcivilizationtowhichthepeopleofthatregionhadpointedwithpride——asteam—engineforsawingtimber;butsometimebeforemyarrivaloneoftheinnumerablepettyrevolutionshadleftitameremassofrustyscraps。
Underthenaturallawofincreasethepopulationoftherepublicshouldhavebeennumberedinmillions;butcloseexamination，inallpartsofitsterritory，showedusthattherewerenottwohundredthousandinhabitantsleft，andthatoftheseaboutonehalfweremulattos，theotherhalfbeingaboutequallydividedbetweenblacksandwhites。
SincemyvisitbusinessmenfromtheUnitedStateshavedevelopedthecountrytosomeextent;butrevolutionshavecontinued，eachchieftaingettingintoplacebyoratingloudlyaboutliberty，andthenholdingpowerbymurderingnotonlyhisenemies，butthosewhomhethoughtlikelytobecomehisenemies。
Thelatepresident，Heureaux，wasoneofthemostmon—
strousofthesecreatureswhohavefoundtheirbreeding—
bedinCentralAmericanpolitics。Heseemstohavemurdered，asfaraspossible，notonlyallwhoopposedhim，butallwho，hethought，MIGHTopposehim，andevenmembersoftheirfamilies。
ItwasnotatallsurprisingthatBaez，clear—sightedandexperiencedashewas，sawanadvantagetohiscountryinannexationtotheUnitedStates。Heprobablyexpectedthatitwouldbe，atfirst，aTerritoryofwhichhe，astheforemostmanintheisland，wouldbecomegovernor，andthatlateritwouldcomeintotheUnionasaStatewhichhewouldbequitelikelytorepresentintheUnitedStatesSenate。Atalaterperiod，whenIsawhiminNewYork，onhiswaytovisitthePresidentatWashington，myfavorableopinionofhimwasconfirmed。Hewasquiet，dignified，manly，showinghimself，inhisconversationandconduct，aself—respectingmanoftheworld，accustomedtomanagelargeaffairsandtodealwithstrongmen。
ThesamedesiretoannextheislandtotheUnitedStateswasevidentamongtheclergy。Thisatfirstsurprisedme，forsomeofthemwereexceedinglyfanatical，andoneofthem，whowasespeciallyciviltous，hadendeavored，afewmonthsbeforeourarrival，topreventtheproperburialofacharmingAmericanlady，thewifeoftheAmericangeologistofthegovernment，undertheoldSpanishviewthat，notbeingaCatholic，sheshouldbeburiedoutsidethecemeteryuponthecommons，likeadog。
Butthedesireforpeaceandforareasonabledevelopmentofthecountry，evenunderagovernmentconsideredheretical，waseverywhereevident。
Itbecamemydutytodiscussthequestionofchurchpropertywiththepapalnuncioandvicarapostolic。Hewasanarchbishopwhohadbeensentovertotaketemporarychargeofecclesiasticalmatters;ofcourseamostearnestRomanCatholic，butthoroughlydevotedtotheannexationoftheislandtotheUnitedStates，andthereasonforhisopinionwassoonevident。Throughouttheentireislandoneconstantlyseesgreatbuildingsandotherchurchpropertywhichhavebeenconfiscatedandsoldforsecularpurposes。Inthecityitselftheopera—housewasaformerchurch，whichinitsdayhadbeenveryimposing，andeverywhereonesawmonasteryestatesinprivatehands。TheauthoritiesinSantoDomingohadsimplypursuedthepolicysowellknowninvariousLatincountries，andespeciallyinFrance，Italy，andSpain，ofallowingthereligiousorderstoabsorblargemassesofproperty，andthensqueezingitoutofthemintothecoffersofthestate。
Inviewofthis，IsaidtothepapalnunciothatitwasveryimportantfortheUnitedStates，inconsideringthequestionofannexingtheisland，toknowwhatthechurchclaimed;thatifthechurchdemandedtherestorationofallthathadbeentakenfromher，thiswouldcertainlygreatlydiminishthevalueoftheislandintheeyesofourpublicmen。Tothisheansweredthatincaseofannexationthechurchwouldclaimnothingwhateverbeyondwhatitwasabsolutelyandactuallyoccupyingandusingforitsownpurposes，andheofferedtogivemeguaranteestothateffectwhichshouldbefullandexplicit。
Itwasperfectlyclearthatthechurchauthoritiespreferredtobeunderagovernmentwhich，eventhoughtheyregardeditasProtestant，couldsecurethemtheirproperty，ratherthantobesubjecttoaRomanCatholicrepublicinwhichtheywereliabletoconstantlyrecurringspoliation。ThisIfoundtobethespiritoftheclergyofeverygradeinallpartsoftheisland:theyhaddiscoveredthatundertheConstitutionoftheUnitedStatesconfiscationwithoutcompensationisimpossible。
Italsofelltomylot，astheyoungestmaninthecommission，toconductanexpeditionacrossthemountainsfromthecityofSantoDomingoonthesouthcoasttoPuertoPlataonthenorth。
Duringthisjourney，onwhichIwasabouttendaysinthesaddle，itwasmydutytoconferwiththeprincipalfunctionaries，andthisgavemenovelexperiences。When—
everourcavalcadeapproachedatown，wehalted，amessengerwassentforward，andsoonthealcalde，thepriests，andothermenoflightandleading，withalongtrainoffunctionaries，camedashingoutonhorsebacktogreetus;
introductionsthentookplace，and，finally，therewasawildgallopintothetowntothehouseofthealcalde，wherespeechesweremadeandcomplimentsexchangedinthehighSpanishmanner。
Attheoutsettherewasamishap。Aswewereorganizingourexpedition，thegentlemenchargedwithpurchasingsuppliesassuredmethatifwewishedtosecureproperconsiderationoftheannexationquestionbytheprincipalmenofthevarioustowns，wemustexercisealargeifsimplehospitality，andthatsocialgatheringswithoutrumpunchwouldbeoffensiveratherthanpropitiatory。Theordertolayinasufficientspirituoussupplywasreluctantlygiven，andinduetimewestarted，oneofourtrainofpack—horseshavingoneachsideofthesaddlelargedemijohnsofthefluidwhichwastobesopotentfordiplomaticpurposes。Atthecloseofthefirstday’stravel，justasourhammockshadbeenswung，Iheardascreamandsawthepeopleofourownandneighboringhutssnatchingcupsandglassesandrunningpell—melltowardthepointwhereouranimalsweretethered。OnexaminationIfoundthatthehorseintrustedwiththepreciousburden，havingbeenrelievedofpartofhisload，hadfeltwarrantedindisportinghimself，andhadfinallyrolledover，crushingallthedemijohns。Itseemedaseriousmatter，butIcannotsaythatitafflictedmemuch;wepropitiatedthelocalfunctionariesbyotherformsofhospitality，andIneverfoundthattheabsenceofrumpunchseriouslyinjuredourdiplomacy。
Civilwarhadbeenrecentlyragingthroughouttherepublic，andinoneoftheinteriortownsIwasonedaynotifiedthatawell—knownguerrillageneral，whohadshowngreatbraveryinbehalfoftheBaezgovernment，wishedapublicinterview。Themeetingtookplaceinthelargeroomofthehousewhichhadbeenassignedme。Themountainchieftainentered，bearingarifle，and，thefirstsalutationshavingbeenexchanged，hestruckanoratoricalattitude，andafterexpressing，inaloudharangue，hishighconsiderationfortheUnitedStates，foritsrepresentative，andforallpresent，hesolemnlytenderedtherifletome，sayingthathehadtakenitinbattlefromLuperon，thearch—enemyofhiscountry，andcouldthinkofnootherbestowalsoworthyofit。Thisgiftsomewhatdisconcertedme。InthebitternessofpartyfeelingathomeregardingtheSantoDomingoquestion，howwoulditlookforoneofthecommissionerstoacceptsuchapresent？
PresidentGranthadbeenhelduptoobloquythroughoutthewholelengthandbreadthofthelandforacceptingadog;what，then，wouldhappentoadiplomaticrepresentativewhoshouldacceptarifle？Connectedwiththeexpeditionweresometwentyorthirtyrepresentativesofthepress，andIcouldeasilyseehowmyacceptanceofsuchagiftwouldalarmthesensitiveconsciencesofmanyofthemandbeenlargedandembroidereduntiltheUnitedStateswouldresoundwithindignantoutcryagainstacommissionwhichacceptedpresentsandwasprobablywonoverbycontractsforartillery。Myfirstattemptwastoevadethedifficulty。Rifleinhand，Iacknowledgedmyappreciationofthegift，butdeclaredtothegeneralthatmykeepingsuchatrophywouldcertainlybeawrongtohisfamily;thatIwouldthereforeacceptitandtransmitittohisson，tobehandeddownfromgenerationtogenerationofhisdescendantsasanheirloomandamonumentofbraveryandpatriotism。Iwasjustcongratulatingmyselfonthisbitofextemporizeddiplomacy，whenacloudbegantogatheronthegeneral’sface，andpresentlyhebrokeforth，sayingthatheregrettedtofindhispresentnotgoodenoughtobeaccepted;thatitwasthebesthehad;thatifhehadpossessedanythingbetterhewouldhavebroughtit。Atthis，twoorthreegentlemeninourpartypressedaroundme，and，inundertones，advisedmebyallmeanstoacceptit。Therewasnoalternative;I
acceptedtherifleinassonorouswordsasIcouldmuster——``INBEHALFOFTHEGOVERNMENTOFTHEUNITEDSTATES’’;
haditplacedimmediatelyinalargeboxwiththewords``WarDepartment’’uponit，inverystaringletters;andsothematterended。Fortunatelythecommission，thoughattackedforamultitudeofsins，escapedcensureinthismatter。
Onepartofourdutywassomewhatpeculiar。TheUnitedStates，afewyearsbefore，hadbeenonthepointofconcludingnegotiationswithDenmarkforthepurchaseofSt。Thomas，whenavolcanicdisturbancethrewanAmericanfrigateintheharborofthatislandupontheshore，utterlywreckingboththevesselandthetreaty。
ThisexperienceitwaswhichledtotheinsertionofaclauseintheCongressionalinstructionstothecommissionrequiringthemtomakeexaminationsregardingthefrequencyandseverityofearthquakes。Thisdutywedischargedfaithfully，andononeoccasionwitharesultinterestingbothtostudentsofhistoryandofpsychology。
ArrivingattheoldtownofCotuy，amongthemountains，andreturningthevicar’scall，aftermypublicreception，I
askedhimthestereotypedquestionregardingearthquakes，andwasansweredthatabouttheyear1840therehadbeenoneofaveryterriblesort;thatithadshakenandbrokenhisgreatstonechurchverybadly;thathehadrepairedthewholestructure，exceptthegapingcreviceabovethefrontentrance;``and，’’saidthegoodoldpadre，``THATIleftasawarningtomypeople，thinkingthatitmighthaveagoodinfluenceuponthem。’’Onvisitingthechurch，wefoundthecreviceasthepadrehaddescribedit;
buthisreasoningwasespeciallyinteresting，becauseitcorroboratedthecontentionofBuckle，who，butafewyearsbefore，inhis``HistoryofCivilizationinEngland，’’
hadstatedthatearthquakesandvolcanoeshadaidedtheclergyofsoutherncountriesinmaintainingsuperstition，andwhohadafterwarddefendedthisviewwithgreatwealthoflearningwhenitwasattackedbyawriterinthe``EdinburghReview。’’CertainlythisSantoDomingoexamplewasonthesideofthehistorian。
AnotherdaybroughtustoVega，notedasthepointwhereColumbusrearedhisstandardabovethewonderfulinteriorvalleyoftheisland;andtherewewerewelcomed，asusual，bytheofficials，and，amongthem，byatall，ascetic—
lookingpriestwhospokeFrench。Returninghiscallnextday，IwasshownintohispresenceinaroomutterlybareofallornamentsavealargeandbeautifulphotographoftheCathedralofTours。Ithadhappenedtome，justaftermycollegedays，totravelonfootthroughalargepartofnorthern，western，andmiddleFrance，especiallyinterestingmyselfincathedralarchitecture;andasmyeyecaughtthisphotographIsaid，``Father，whatabeautifulpictureyouhaveoftheChurchofSt。Gatien！’’Thecountenanceofthepriest，whohadatfirstreceivedmeveryceremoniouslyandcoldly，wasinstantlychanged;helookedatmeforamoment，andthenthrewhisarmsaboutme。Itwaspathetic:ofallwhohadeverenteredhisdoorIwasprobablytheonlyonewhohadrecognizedthepictureofthecathedralwherehehadbeenordained;and，aboveall，byacuriousinspirationwhichIcannottothishouraccountfor，Ihadrecognizeditbythenameofthesainttowhomitisdedicated。WhyIdidnotspeakofitsimplyastheCathedralofToursIknownot;howIcametorememberthatitwasdedicatedtoSt。GatienIknownot——