1。Charm2。TheMothandtheStar3。ContrastedTravelling4。TheOuterandtheInnerWoman5。OnSomeGildedMisalliances6。TheComplacencyofMediocrity7。TheDiscontentofTalent8。Slouch9。SocialSuggestion10。Bohemia11。SocialExiles12。\"SevenAges\"ofFurniture13。OurEliteandPublicLife14。TheSmallSummerHotel15。AFalseStart16。AHolyLand17。RoyaltyatPlay18。ARockAhead19。TheGrandPrix20。\"TheTreadmill\"
21。\"LikeMasterLikeMan\"
22。AnEnglishInvasionoftheRiviera23。ACommonWeakness24。ChangingParis25。Contentment26。TheClimber27。TheLastoftheDandies28。ANationontheWing29。Husks30。TheFaubourgSt。Germain31。Men\'sManners32。AnIdealHostess33。TheIntroducer34。AQuestionandanAnswer35。LivingonYourFriends36。AmericanSocietyinItaly37。TheNewportofthePast38。AConquestofEurope39。ARaceofSlaves40。IntrospectionTotheReaderTHEREexistedformerly，indiplomaticcircles，acuriouscustom，sincefallenintodisuse，entitledthePeleMele，contriveddoubtlessbysomedistractedMasterofCeremoniestoquelltheendlessjealousiesandquarrelsforprecedencebetweencourtiersanddiplomatistsofcontendingpretensions。Underthisrulenorankwasrecognized，eachpersonbeingallowedatbanquet，fete，orotherpublicceremonyonlysuchplaceashehadbeeningeniousorfortunateenoughtoobtain。
Anyonewishingtoformanideaoftheconfusionthatensued，oftheintriguesandexpedientsresortedto，notonlyinprocuringprominentplaces，butalsoinensuringtheintegrityofthePeleMele，shouldglanceovertheamusingmemoirsofM。deSegur。
Theaspiringnoblesandambassadors，harassedbythisconstantpreoccupation，hadlittletimeorinclinationleftforanyseriouspursuit，since，totakeamoment\'sreposeoranhour\'sbreathingspacewastoriskfallingbehindintheendlessandaimlessrace。
Strangeasitmayappear，theknowledgethattheyowedplaceandprefermentmoretochanceorintriguethantoanypersonalmeritorinheritedright，insteadoflesseningthevalueoftheprizesforwhichallwerestriving，seemedonlytoenhancethemintheeyesofthecompetitors。
Successwastheuniquestandardbywhichtheygaugedtheirfellows。
Thosewhosucceededrevelledintheadulationoftheirfriends，butwhenanyonefailed，theficklecrowdpassedhimbytobowatmorefortunatefeet。
Nobetterpicturecouldbefoundofthe\"world\"ofto-day，aperpetualPeleMele，wheresuchadvantagesonlyareconcededaswehavebeensufficientlyenterprisingtoobtain，andarestrongorcleverenoughtokeep-aconstantcompetition，adailysteeplechase，favorabletodaringspiritsandpersonalinitiativebutwiththedefectofkeepingfrailhumanityeveronthequivive。
Philosopherstellus，thatweshouldseekhappinessonlyinthecalmofourownminds，notallowingexternalconditionsortheopinionsofotherstoinfluenceourways。Thisloftydetachmentfromenvironmentisachievedbyveryfew。Indeed，thephilosophersthemselveswhomaybesaidtohaveinventedtheartof\"posing\"
weregenerallyasvainaspeacocks，profoundlypre-occupiedwiththeverdictoftheircontemporariesandtheirpositionasregardsposterity。
Manisborngregariousandremainsallhislifeaherdinganimal。
Asonekeenobserverhaswritten，\"Sogreatisman\'shorrorofbeingalonethathewillseekthesocietyofthoseheneitherlikesnorrespectssoonerthanbelefttohisown。\"Thelawsandconventionsthatgovernmen\'sintercoursehave，therefore，formedatemptingsubjectforthewritersofallages。Somehavelaboredhopingtoreformtheirgeneration，othershavewrittentooffersolutionsforlife\'smanyproblems。
Beaumarchais，whosepenetratingwitleftfewsubjectsuntouched，makeshisFigaroputthesubjectasidewith\"Jemepressederiredetout，depeurd\'etreobliged\'enpleurer。\"
Theauthorofthislittlevolumepretendstosettlenodisputes，aimsatinauguratingnoreforms。Hehaslightlytouchedonpassingtopicsandjotteddown，\"topointamoraloradornatale，\"someofthemoreobviousfoiblesandinconsistenciesofourAmericanways。
Ifastraybitofphilosophyhashereandthereslippedinbetweenthelines，itismostlyofthelaughing\"school，\"andusedmoreinbanterthaninblame。
Thismuchabused\"world\"isafairlyagreeableplaceifyoudonottakeitseriously。Meetitwithafriendlyfaceanditwillsmilegaylybackatyou，butdonotaskofitwhatitcannotgive，orattributetoitsverdictsmoreimportancethantheydeserve。
ELIOTGREGORY
Newport，Novemberfirst，1897
CHAPTER1-CharmWOMENendowedbynaturewiththeindescribablequalitywecall\"charm\"forwantofabetterword，arethesupremedevelopmentofaperfectedrace，thelastword，asitwere，ofcivilization；thefloweroftheirkind，crowningcenturiesofgrowingrefinementandcultivation。Otherwomenmayuniteathousandbrilliantqualities，andattractiveattributes，maybebeautifulasAstarteorwittyasMadamedeMontespan，thoseendowedwiththepowerofcharm，haveinallagesandundereverysky，heldundisputedruleovertheheartsoftheirgeneration。
Whenwelookattheportraitsoftheenchantresseswhomhistorytellsushaveruledtheworldbytheircharm，andswayedthedestiniesofempiresattheirfancy，weareastonishedtofindthattheyhaverarelybeenbeautiful。FromCleopatraorMaryofScotlanddowntoLolaMontez，thetell-talecoinorcanvasrevealsthesamemarvellousfact。Wewonderhowthesewomenattainedsuchinfluenceoverthemenoftheirday，theirhusbandsorlovers。Wewoulddobettertolookaroundus，orinward，andobservewhatispassinginourownhearts。
Pause，readermine，amomentandreflect。Whohasheldthefirstplaceinyourthoughts，filledyoursoul，andinfluencedyourlife？
Wasshethemostbeautifulofyouracquaintances，theradiantvisionthatdazzledyourboyisheyes？Hasshenotratherbeensomegentle，quietwomanwhomyouhardlynoticedthefirsttimeyourpathscrossed，butwhograduallygrewtobeapartofyourlife-
towhomyouinstinctivelyturnedforconsolationinmomentsofdiscouragement，forcounselinyourdifficulties，andwhosewelcomewasthebrightmomentinyourday，lookedforwardtothroughlonghoursoftoilandworry？
Inthehurly-burlyoflifewelosesightofsomanythingsourfathersandmothersclungto，andhavedriftedsofarawayfromtheirgentlecustomsandsimple，home-lovinghabits，thatonewonderswhatimpressionoursocietywouldmakeonawomanofacenturyago，couldshebysomespellbedroppedintotheswingofmoderndays。Thegoodsoulwouldbeapttofinditratherafarcryfromthequietpleasuresofheryouth，to\"aladies\'amateurbicyclerace\"thatformedtheattractionrecentlyatasummerresort。
Thatweshouldhavecometothinkitnaturalandproperforayoungwifeandmothertopasshermorningsatgolf，lunchingattheclub-
houseto\"savetime，\"returninghomeonlyforahurriedchangeoftoilettostartagainonabicycleorforaroundofcalls，anoccupationthatwillleaveherjustthehalf-hournecessarytoslipintoadinnergown，andthenforhertopasstheeveningindancingoratthecard-table，shows，whenonetakesthetimetothinkofit，howunconsciouslywehavechanged，andwithallapologiestothegayhostessesandgracefulathletesofto-daynotforthebetter。
Itisjustinthesubtlequalityofcharmthatthewomenofthelasttenyearshavefallenawayfromtheireldersisters。Theyhavebeencarriedalongbyaloveofsport，andbythesetoffashion\'stide，notstoppingtoaskthemselveswhithertheyarefloating。Theydonotrealizealltheimportanceoftheiractsnorthetruemeaningoftheirmetamorphosis。
Thedearcreaturesshouldbecontent，fortheyhaveatlastescapedfromthebondageofages，havebrokentheirchains，andvaultedovertheirprisonwalls。\"Lordsandmasters\"havegraduallybecomeveryhumbleandobedientservants，andthe\"love，honour，andobey\"
ofthemarriageservicemightnowmorelogicallybespokenbytheman；onthelipsofthewomenofto-dayitisbutagraceful\"FACON
DEPARLER，\"andholdsonlythosewhochoosetobebound。
Itisnotmyintentiontorailagainsttheshort-comingsoftheday。ThatungratefultaskIleavetosternermoralists，andhopefulsoulswhonaivelyimaginetheycanstemthecurrentofanepochwiththebarrieroftheireloquence，orsweepbackanoceanofinnovationsbytheirlogic。Ishouldlike，however，toaskmysistersonequestion:Aretheyquitesurethatwomengainbythesechanges？Dotheyimagine，these\"sporty\"youngfemalesinshort-
cutskirtsandmannishshirtsandties，thatitisseductivetoalover，orahusbandtoseehisidolinaviolentperspiration，herdraggledhairblowingacrossasunburnedface，pantingupalonghillinfrontofhimonabicycle，franticathavinglostherrace？
ShadeofgentleWilliam!whosaidAwomanmoved，islikeafountaintroubled，-
Muddy，ill-seeming，thick，bereftofbeauty。
Andwhileitisso，nonesodryorthirstyWilldeigntosiportouchonedropofit。
Isthemoderngirlundertheimpressionthatmenwillbecontentedwithpoorimitationsofthemselves，tosharetheirhomesandbethemothersoftheirchildren？Sheisthrowingawaythesubstancefortheshadow!
Themomentwomenstepoutfromthesanctuaryoftheirhomes，theglamourthatgirlhoodormaternityhasthrownaroundthemcastaside，thatmomentwilltheyceasetorulemankind。Womenmayagitateuntiltheyhaveobtainedpoliticalrecognition，butwillawakefromtheirfoolishdreamofpower，realizingtoolatewhattheyhavesacrificedtoobtainit，thatthepricehasbeenveryheavy，andthefruitoftheirstrugglesbitterontheirlips。
Therearefewmen，Iimagine，ofmygenerationtowhomthewords\"home\"and\"mother\"havenotapenetratingcharm，whodonotlookbackwithsoftenedheartandtenderthoughtstofiresidescenesofeveningreadingsandtwilighttalksatamother\'sknee，realizingthatthebestintheirnaturesowesitsgrowthtotheseinfluences。
Isometimeslookaboutmeandwonderwhattheword\"mother\"willmeanlater，tomodernlittleboys。Itwillevoke，Ifear，aconfusedremembranceofsomecentaur-likebeing，halfwoman，halfwheel，orasitdidtoneglectedlittleRawdonCrawley，thevisionofaradiantcreatureingauzeandjewels，drivingawaytoendlessFETES-FETESfollowedbylongmornings，whenhewastoldnottomakeanynoise，orplaytooloudly，\"aspoormammaisresting。\"
Whatothermemoriescanthe\"successful\"womanofto-dayhopetoleaveinthemindsofherchildren？Ifthechildremembershismotherinthisway，willnotthemanwhohasknownandperhapslovedher，feelthesamesensationofemptyfutilitywhenhernameismentioned？
Thewomanwhoproposesagameofcardstoayouthwhocomestopassanhourinhersociety，canhardlyexpecthimtocarryawayaparticularlytendermemoryofherasheleavesthehouse。Thegirlwhohasrowed，ridden，orracedataman\'ssidefordays，withtheobjectofgettingthebetterofhimatsomesportorpastime，cannotreasonablyhopetobeconnectedinhisthoughtswithideasmoretenderormoreelevatedthan\"odds\"or\"handicaps，\"withanundercurrentofpiqueifhisunsexedcompanionhas\"downed\"himsuccessfully。
Whatman，unlesshebesingularlydissoluteorunfortunate，butturnshissteps，whenhecan，towardssomedaintyparlorwhereheissureoffindingasmiling，soft-voicedwoman，whosewelcomeheknowswillsoothehisirritatednervesandrestoretheevenbalanceofhistemper，whosecharmwillworkitssubtlewayintohistroubledspirit？Thewifeheloves，orthefriendheadmiresandrespects，willdomoreforhiminonesuchquiethourwhentwomindscommune，comingclosertotherealman，andmovinghimtobraverefforts，andnobleraims，thanallthebeautiesand\"sporty\"
acquaintancesofalifetime。Nomatterwhataman\'seducationortasteis，noneareinsensibletosuchanatmosphereortothegraceandwitcheryawomancanlendtothesimplestsurroundings。Sheneednotbebeautifulorbrillianttoholdhiminlifelongallegiance，ifshebutpossessthismagnetism。
MadameRecamierwasabeautiful，butnotabrilliantwoman，yetsheheldmenherslavesforyears。Toknowherwastofallunderhercharm，andtofeelitoncewastoremainheradorerforlife。Shewillgodowntohistoryasthetypeofafascinatingwoman。Beingaskedoncebyanacquaintancewhatspellsheworkedonmankindthatenabledhertoholdthemforeveratherfeet，shelaughinglyanswered:
\"Ihavealwaysfoundtwowordssufficient。Whenavisitorcomesintomysalon，Isay，\'ENFIN!\'andwhenhegetsuptogoaway，I
say，\'DEJA!\'\"
\"Whatisthiswonderful\'charm\'heiswritingabout？\"Ihearsomesprightlymaideninquireasshereadstheselines。Mydearyounglady，ifyouaskthequestion，youhavejudgedyourselfandbeenfoundwanting。ButtosatisfyyouasfarasIcan，Iwilltryanddefineit-notbytellingyouwhatitis；thatisbeyondmypower-butbynegatives，theonlywayinwhichsubtlesubjectscanbeapproached。
AwomanofcharmisneverflusteredandneverDISTRAITE。Shetalkslittle，andrarelyofherself，rememberingthatboresarepersonswhoinsistontalkingaboutthemselves。Shedoesnotbreakthethreadofaconversationbyirrelevantquestionsorconfabulateinanundertonewiththeservants。Nooneofherguestsreceivesmoreofherattentionthananotherandnoneareneglected。Sheofferstoeachonewhospeaksthehomageofherentireattention。Shenevermakesanefforttobebrilliantorentertainwithherwit。
Sheisfartoocleverforthat。Neitherdoesshevolunteerinformationnorconverseabouthertroublesorherailments，norwanderoffintodetailsaboutpeopleyoudonotknow。
Sheisallthings-toeachmanshelikes，inthebestsenseofthatphrase，appreciatinghisqualities，stimulatinghimtobetterthings-
forhisgayerhoursShehasavoiceofgladnessandasmileandeloquenceofbeauty；
andsheglidesIntohisdarkermusingswithamildandhealingsympathythatstealsawayTheirsharpnessereheisaware。
CHAPTER2-TheMothandtheStarTHEtruthofthesayingthat\"itisalwaystheunexpectedthathappens，\"receivesinthiscountryaconfirmationfromanunlooked-
forquarter，asdoesthefactofhumannaturebeingalways，discouragingly，thesameinspiteofvariedsurroundings。Thissoundslikeaparadox，butisanexceedinglysimplestatementeasilyproved。
ThatthegreatmassofAmericans，drawnastheyarefromsuchvariedsources，shouldtakeanyinterestinthecomingsandgoingsorsocialdoingsofasmallsetofwealthyandfashionablepeople，iscertainlyanunexpecteddevelopment。Thattoreadoftheamusementsandhomelifeofacliqueofpeoplewithwhomtheyhavelittleincommon，whosewholeeducationandpointofviewaredifferentfromtheirown，andwhomtheyhaverarelyseenandneverexpecttomeet，shouldaffordtheaveragecitizenanyamusementseemslittleshortofimpossible。
Oneacceptsasanaturalsequencethatabroadwhereanhereditarynobilityhaveruledforcenturies，andaccustomedthepeopletolookuptothemasthevisibleembodimentofallthatissplendidandunattainableinlifesuchinterestshouldexist。Thatthehome-comingofanEnglishorFrenchnoblemantohisestatesshouldexcitetheenthusiasmofhundredsmoreorlessdependentuponhimfortheiramusementormorematerialadvantages；thathismarriagetoanheiress-meaningtothemthere-openingofalong-closedCHATEAUandthebeginningofaperiodofprosperityforthedistrict-shouldexcitehisneighborsisnottobewonderedat。
Itiswellknownthatwholeregionshavebeenmadeprosperousbytheresidenceofacourt，witnessthewealthandtradebroughtintoScotlandbytheQueen\'spreferencefor\"theLandofCakes，\"andthediscontentandpovertyinIrelandfromabsenteeismandpersistentavoidanceofthatcountrybythecourt。Butinthisland，whereeveryreasonforinterestingoneclassinanotherseemslacking，thatthousandsofwell-to-dopeoplehalfthetimenotborninthishemisphere，shoulddelightedlydevourcolumnsofincorrectinformationaboutNewYorkdancesandLenoxhouse-parties，wintercruises，orNewportcoachingparades，strikestheobserverasthe\"unexpected\"initspurestform。
Thatthisinterestexistsisabsolutelycertain。DuringatripintheWest，someseasonsago，IwasdumbfoundedtofindthatthemembersofacertainNewYorksetwerefamiliarlyspokenofbytheirfirstnames，andwasassailedwithallsortsofeagerquestionswhenitwasdiscoveredthatIknewthem。Acertainyounglady，atthattimeabelleinNewYork，wascurrentlycalledSALLY，andawell-knownsportsmanFRED，bythousandsofpeoplewhohadneverseeneitherofthem。Itseemsimpossible，doesitnot？Letuslookalittlecloserintothereasonofthisinterest，andweshallfindhowsimpleistheapparentparadox。
Perhapsinnocountry，inalltheworld，dotheimmensemiddleclassesleadsuchuninterestinglives，andhavesuchlimitedresourcesattheirdisposalforamusementorthepassingofleisurehours。
Abroadthemilitarybandsplayconstantlyinthepublicparks；themuseumsandpalacesarealwaysopenwhereintopassrainySundayafternoons；everyvillagehasitsreligiousFETESandlocalfair，attendedwithdancingandgames。Allthesementalrelaxationsarelackinginournewercivilization；lifeisstrippedofeverythingthatisnotdistinctlypractical；thedullroundofweeklytoilisonlybrokenbythedulleridlenessofanAmericanSunday。
Naturally，thesepeoplelongforsomethingoutsideofthemselvesandtheirnarrowsphere。
Suddenlytherearisesaclasswhosewealthpermitsthemtobreakthroughtheironcircleofworkandboredom，whodopicturesqueanddelightfulthings，whichappealdirectlytotheimagination；theybuildasummerresidencecomplete，insixweeks，withfurnitureandbric-a-brac，onthetopofaroadlessmountain；theysailinfairylikeyachtstosummerseas，andmarrytheirdaughterstotheheirsofducalhouses；theyfloatuptheNileindahabeeyah，orpassthe\"monthofflowers\"infarJapan。
Itisbuthumannaturetodelightinreadingofthesethings。Herethegreatmassofthepeoplefindandeagerlyseizeon，theelementofromancelackingintheirlives，infinitelymoreenthrallingthanthedoingsofanynovel\'sheroine。Itisreal!
Itistakingplace!and-stilldeeperreason-ineveryambitiousAmericanheartlingersthesecrethopethatwithluckandgoodmanagementtheytoomaydothoseverythings，oratleastthattheirchildrenwillenjoythefortunestheyhavegained，injustthoseways。Thegloomofthemonotonouspresentisbrightened，thepatienttoilerreturnstohisdeskwithsomethingdefinitebeforehim-anobjectivepoint-towardswhichhecanstruggle；heknowsthatthisisnoimpossibledream。Dozenshavesucceededandprovetohimwhatenergyandenterprisecanaccomplish。
Donotlaughatthissuggestion；itisfartruerthanyouimagine。
Manyawearywomanhasturnedfromsuchreadingtohernarrowduties，feelingthatlifeisnotallwork，andwithrenewedhopeinthepossibilitiesofthefuture。
Doubtlessacertainamountofpurelyidlecuriosityismingledwiththeotherfeelings。IrememberquitewellshowingourcitysightstoaboredpartyofWesternfriends，andfailingentirelytoamusethem，when，happeningtomentionaswedroveuptown，\"theregoesMr。Blank，\"namingaprominentleaderofcotillions，myguestsnearlyfellovereachotherandoutofthecarriageintheireagernesstoseethegentlemanofwhomtheyhadreadsomuch，andwhowas，inthosedays，apowerinhisway，andseveraltimesaftertheyexpressedthegreatestsatisfactionathavingseenhim。
Ihavefound，withrareexceptions，andtheexperiencehasbeenratherwidelygatheredalloverthecountry，thatthisinterest-
orcallitwhatyouwill-hasbeenentirelywithoutspiteorbitterness，ratherthedelightofachildinafairystory。Forpeoplearerarelyenviousofthingsfarremovedfromtheirgrasp。
Youwillfindthatawomanwhoisbitterbecauseherneighborhasagirl\"help\"oramorecomfortablecottage，rarelyfeelsenvytowardstheownersofopera-boxesoryachts。Suchheart-burningsletushopetheyarefewareamongaclassbornintheshadowofgreatwealth，andbredupwithtastesthattheycanneitherrelinquishnorsatisfy。Thelargemajorityofpeopleshowonlyagood-naturedinclinationtochaff，noneofthe\"classfeeling\"
whichcertainpapersandcertainpoliticianstrytoexcite。
Outsideofthelargecitieswiththeirforeign-bred，semi-
anarchisticpopulations，thetoneisperfectlyfriendly；forthesimplereasonthatitneverenteredintotheheadofanyAmericantoimaginethatthereWASanyclassdifference。Tohimhisrichneighborsaresimplyhisluckyneighbors，almosthisrelations，who，startingfromacommonstock，havebeenableto\"getthere\"
soonerthanhehasdone。Sohewishesthemluckonthevoyageinwhichheexpectstojointhemassoonashehashadtimetomakeafortune。
Solongastheworldexists，oratleastuntilwehavereformeditandadoptedMr。Bellamy\'sdelightfulschemeofexistenceasdescribedin\"LookingBackward，\"greatfortuneswillbemade，andpainfulcontrastsbeseen，especiallyincities，anditwouldseemtobethedutyofthepresstosoften-certainlynottosharpen-
theedgeofdiscontent。Aslongashumannatureishumannature，andthepoorcaretoreadofthedoingsofthemorefortunate，byallmeansgivethemthereadingtheyenjoyanddemand，butletitbewritteninakindlyspiritsothatitmaybeacultivationaswellasarecreation。Treatthisperfectlynaturalandhonesttastehonestlyandnaturally，for，afterall，itisThedesireofthemothforthestar，Ofthenightforthemorrow。
ThedevotiontosomethingafarFromthesphereofoursorrow。
CHAPTER3-ContrastedTravellingWHENourparentswenttoEuropefiftyyearsago，itwastheeventofalifetime-atourlovinglymappedoutinadvancewithadvicefromtravelledfriends。Passportswereprocured，booksread，willsmade，andfinally，prayerswereofferedupinchurchandsolemnleave-takingperformed。Onceontheotherside，descriptiveletterswereconscientiouslywritten，andeagerlyreadbyfriendsathome，-inspiteoftheseepistlesbeingonthethinnestofpaperandwithcrossingcarriedtoafineart，forpostagewashighintheforties。Aboveall，ajournalwaskept。
SuchajournalliesbeforemeasIwrite。Fourlittlevolumesinwornmoroccocoversandfaded\"Italian\"writing，morepreciousthanallmyotherbookscombined，theirsightrecallsthatlosttime-
myyouth-when，asareward，theywereunlockedthatImightlookatthedrawings，andthesweetestvoiceintheworldwouldreadtomefromthem!Happy，vanisheddays，thataresofarawaytheyseemtohavebeeninanotherexistence!
ThefirstvolumeopenswiththevoyageacrosstheAtlantic，madeinanAmericanclipperamodelunsurpassedtheworldover，whichwasaccomplishedinthirteendays，afeatrarelyequallednow，bysail。
GenialCaptainNyewasincommand。Thesamewholater，whenasteampropelledvesselwasofferedhim，refused，asunworthyofaseaman，\"toboilakettleacrosstheocean。\"
Lifefriendshipsweremadeinthoselittlecabins，undertheswinginglampthetravellersre-readlastvolumessoastobepreparedtoappreciateeverythingonlanding。Ireland，EnglandandScotlandwerevisitedwithanenthusiasmbornofScott，thetediumoflongcoachingjourneysbeingbeguiledbythefirst\"numbers\"of\"Pickwick，\"overwhichthemenofthepartyroared，butwhichtheladiesdidnotcarefor，thinkingitvulgar，andnottobecomparedto\"Waverley，\"\"ThaddeusofWarsaw，\"or\"TheMysteriesofUdolpho。\"
Acircularlettertoourdiplomaticagentsabroadwaspresentedineachcity，ariteinvariablyfollowedbyaninvitationtodine，forwhichoccasionsablacksatinfrockwithalowbodyandafewsimpleornaments，includingsupremeeleganceadiamondcross，werecarriedinthetrunks。InLondonatravellingcarriagewasboughtandstocked，theindispensablecourierengaged，halfguide，halfservant，whowasexpectedtoexploreacity，orwaitattable，asoccasionrequired。FourdayswerepassedbetweenHavreandParis，andtheslowprogressacrossEuropewasaccomplished，MurrayinonehandandByronintheother。
Onepageusedparticularlytoattractmyboyishattention。ItwasheadedbyanaivelittledrawingofthecarriageatanItalianinndoor，anddescribedhow，afterthedangersanddiscomfortsofanAlpinepass，theydescendedbysunnyslopesintoLombardy。Oh!therapturethatbreathesfromthosesimplepages!Thevintagescenes，themid-dayhaltforluncheoneatenintheopenair，theafternoonstart，thefrontseatofthecarriageheapedwithpurplegrapes，usedtofiremyyouthfulimaginationandnowrecallsMadamedeStael\'slineonperfecthappiness:\"Tobeyoung!tobeinlove!tobeinItaly!\"
DopeopleenjoyEuropeasmuchnow？Idoubtit!Ithasbecometoomuchamatterofcourse，anecessarypartoftheroutineoflife。
Muchofthebloomisbrushedfromforeignscenesbydescriptivebooksandphotographs，thatSt。Mark\'sorMt。Blanchasbecomeasfamiliartoachild\'seyeasthehousehelivesin，andinconsequencetherealitynowinsteadofbeingarevelationisoftenadisappointment。
Inmyyouth，itwasstillaneventtocross。Iremembermyfirstvoyageontheoldside-wheeledSCOTIA，andCaptainJudkinsinawheeledchair，andaperpetualbadtemper，beingpushedaboutthedeck；andourdelight，whentheinevitablefemaleaskinghimthreedaysouthowfarwewerefromland，gottheanswer\"aboutamile!\"
\"Indeed!Howinteresting!Inwhichdirection？\"
\"Inthatdirection，madam，\"shoutedthecaptain，pointingdownwardasheturnedhisbacktoher。
IfIremember，wewerethenthirteendaysgettingtoLiverpool，andmadetheacquaintanceonboardofthepeoplewithwhomwetravelledduringmostofthatwinter。Imagineanyonenowmakinganacquaintanceonboardasteamer!Inthosesimpledayspeopledependedonthefriendshipsmadeatsummerhotelsorboarding-
housesfortheirvisitinglist。Atpresent，whenagirlcomesout，hermotherpresentshertoeverybodyshewillbelikelytoknowifsheweretoliveacentury。Intheseventies，ladiescheerfullysharedtheirstate-roomswithwomentheydidnotknow，andoftenbecamefriendsinconsequence；butnow，unlessacertaindeck-suitecanbesecured，withbathandsitting-room，ononeortwoparticular\"steamers，\"thegreatladyisindespair。Yetourmotherswerequiteasrefinedasthepresentgeneration，onlytheytooklifesimply，astheyfoundit。
Childrenarenowtakenabroadsoyoung，thatbeforetheyhavereachedanagetoappreciatewhattheysee，Europehasbecometothematwice-toldtale。Sotrueisthis，thatareceiptformakingchildrengoodAmericansistobringthemupabroad。Oncetheygetbackhereitishardtoenticethemawayagain。
Witheachimprovementinthespeedofoursteamers，somethingoftheglamourofEuropevanishes。Thecrowdsthatyearlyrushacrossseeandappreciatelessinalifetimethanourparentsdidintheironetourabroad。AgoodladyofmyacquaintancewascomplainingrecentlyhowmuchParisboredher。
\"Whatcanyoudotopassthetime？\"sheasked。IinnocentlyansweredthatIknewnothingsoentrancingaslongmorningspassedattheLouvre。
\"Oh，yes，Idothattoo，\"shereplied，\"butIlikethe\'BonMarche\'
best!\"
AtripabroadhasbecomeapurelysocialfunctiontoalargenumberofwealthyAmericans，including\"presentation\"inLondonandawinterinRomeorCairo。Andjustasa\"smart\"Englishmanissuretotellyouthathehasnevervisitedthe\"Tower，\"ithasbecomegoodformtoignorethesight-seeingsideofEurope；hundredsofNewYorkersneverseeinganythingofParisbeyondtheRuedelaPaixandtheBois。TheywouldassoonthinkofgoingtoClunyorSt。Denisasofvisitingthemuseuminourpark!
SuchpeoplegotoFontainebleaubecausetheyarebuyingfurniture，andtheywishtoseethebestmodels。TheygotoVersaillesonthecoachand\"do\"thePalaceduringthehalf-hourbeforeluncheon。
Beyondthat，enthusiasmrarelycarriesthem。AssoonastheyhavesettledthemselvesattheBristolortheRhinbeginstheendlesstreadmillofleavingcardsonallthepeoplejustseenathome，andwhomtheywillmeetagaininacoupleofmonthsatNewportorBarHarbor。Thisdutyandtheall-entrancingoccupationofgettingclothesfillsupeverysparehour。Indeed，clothesseemtopervadetheairofParisinMay，theconversationrarelydeviatingfromthem。Ifyoumeetaladyyouknowlookingill，andaskthecause，itgenerallyturnsouttobe\"fourhoursadaystandingtobefitted。\"Incredibleasitmayseem，Ihavebeentoldofoneplainmaidenlady，whomakesatripacross，springandautumn，withthesoleobjectofgettinghertwoyearlyoutfits。
Rememberingthehundredsofcultivatedpeoplewhosedreaminlifeoftenunrealizedfromlackofmeanshasbeentogoabroadandvisitthescenestheirreadinghasmadefamiliar，andknowingwhatsuchatripwouldmeantothem，andhowitwouldbelookedbackuponduringtherestofanobscurelife，Ifeltitalmostadutyto\"suppress\"awealthyfemaledoubtlessanAmericancousinofLadyMidaswhensheinformedme，theotherday，thatdecidedlyshewouldnotgoabroadthisspring。
\"Itisnotnecessary。Worthhasmymeasures!\"
CHAPTER4-TheOuterandtheInnerWomanITisasadcommentaryonourboastedcivilizationthatcasesofshopliftingoccurmoreandmorefrequentlyeachyear，inwhichthedelinquentsarewomenofeducationandrefinement，oratleastbelongtofamiliesandoccupypositionsinwhichonewouldexpecttofindthosequalities!Thereason，however，isnotdifficulttodiscover。
Inthewakeofourhastyandimmatureprosperityhascomeasitdoestoallsuddenlyenrichedsocietiesaloveofostentation，adesiretodazzlethecrowdbydisplaysofluxuryandrichtrappingsindicativeofcrudeandvulgarstandards。Thenewlyacquiredmoney，insteadofbeingexpendedforsolidcomfortsorarticleswhichwouldaffordlastingsatisfaction，islavishedonwhatcanbeworninpublic，ortheoutershellofdisplay，whilethehometableandfiresidebelongingsareneglected。Aglancearoundourtheatres，oratthemenandwomeninourcrowdedthoroughfares，issufficienttorevealtoevenacasualobserverthatthemaniaforfineclothesandwhatiscostly，PERSE，hasbecomethebesettingsinofourdayandourland。
Thetoneofmostofthepapersandofourtheatricaladvertisementsreflectsthisfeeling。Theamountofmoneyexpendedforaworkofartoranewbuildingismentionedbeforeanycommentastoitsbeautyorfitness。Aplayisspokenofas\"ManagerSoandSo\'sthirty-thousand-dollarproduction!\"Thefactthatafavoriteactresswillappearinfourdifferentdressesduringthethreeactsofacomedy，eachtoiletbeingaspecialcreationdesignedforherbyaleadingParisianhouse，isconsideredofsupremeimportanceandisdweltuponintheprogrammeasaspecialattraction。
Itwouldbeastonishingifthetasteofourwomenweredifferent，consideringthewayclothesareeternallybeingdangledbeforetheireyes。Leadingpaperspublishillustratedsupplementsdevotedexclusivelytothesubjectofattire，thuscarryingtemptationintoeveryhumblehome，andsuggestingunattainableluxuries。Windowsinmanyofthelargershopscontainlife-sizedmanikinsloadedwiththelatestcostlyandephemeralcapricesoffashionarrangedtocatchtheeyeofthepoorerclassofwomen，whostandinhundredsgazingatthedisplaylikelarksattractedbyamirror!Watchthosewomenastheyturnaway，andlistentotheirsighsofdiscontentandenvy。Dotheynottellvolumesaboutpettyhopesandambitions？
Idonotrefertothewealthywomenwhosetoiletsareinkeepingwiththeirincomesandthegeneralfootingoftheirhouseholds；
thattheyshouldspendmoreorlessinfittingthemselvesoutdaintilyisoflittleimportance。Thepointwherethissubjectbecomespainfulisinfamiliesofsmallmeanswhereyounggirlsimaginethattobeelaboratelydressedisthefirstessentialofexistence，and，inconsequence，bendtheirlaborsandtheirintelligencetowardsthisend。LastspringIaskedanoldfriendwheresheandherdaughtersintendedpassingtheirsummer。Heranswerstruckmeasbeingcharacteristicenoughtoquote:\"Weshouldmuchprefer，\"shesaid，\"returningtoBarHarbor，forweallenjoythatplaceandhavemanyfriendsthere。Butthetruthis，mydaughtershaveboughtthemselvesverylittleinthewayoftoiletthisyear，asourfinancesarenotinaflourishingcondition。Somypoorgirlswillbeobligedtomaketheirlastyear\'sdressesdoforanotherseason。Underthesecircumstances，itisoutofthequestionforustoreturnasecondsummertothesameplace。\"
Idonotknowhowthisanecdotestrikesmyreaders。Itmademethoughtfulandsadtothinkthat，inafamilyofintelligentandpracticalwomen，suchareasonshouldbeconsideredsufficienttooutweighenjoyment，socialrelations，evenhealth，andallowedtochangetheplansofanentirefamily。
AsAmericanwomenaresofondofcopyingEnglishwaystheyshouldbewillingtotakeafewlessonsonthesubjectofraimentfromacrossthewater。Asthisisnotintendedtobeadissertationon\"HowtoDressWellonNothingaYear，\"andasIfeelthegreatestdiffidenceinapproachingasubjectofwhichIknowabsolutelynothing，itwillbebettertosheerofffromthesereefsandquicksands。Everyonewhoreadstheselineswillknowperfectlywellwhatismeant，whenreferenceismadetothegoodsenseandpracticalutilityofEnglishwomen\'sdress。
WhatdisgustsandangersmewhenmywaytakesmeintooursurfaceorelevatedcarsorintoferryboatsandlocaltrainsistheutterdissonancebetweentheoutfitofmostofthewomenImeetandtheirpositionandoccupation。Souniversalisthis，thatitmightalmostbelaiddownasanaxiom，thattheAmericanwoman，nomatterinwhatwalkoflifeyouobserveher，orwhatthetimeortheplace，isalwayspersistentlyandgrotesquelyoverdressed。Fromthewomenwhofrequentthehotelsofoursummerorwinterresorts，downallthestepsofthesocialstaircasetothechar-woman，whoconsentsspasmodicallytoremovethedustandwaste-papersfrommyoffice，thereseemstobethesamecompletedisregardoffitness。Theotherevening，inleavingmyrooms，Ibrushedagainstaportlypersoninthehalf-lightofthecorridor。Therewasashimmerofwhatappearedtomyinexperiencedeyesascostlystuffs，ahugehatcrownedtheshadowitself，\"toppedbynoddingplumes，\"whichseemedtoaccountforthedepletedconditionofmyfeatherduster。
Ifoundoninquiringofthejanitor，thatthedressypersonIhadmet，wasthechar-womaninstreetattire，andthataclosetwassetasideinthebuilding，forthespecialpurposeofhermorningandeveningtransformations，whichsheunderwentinthebeliefthathersocialpositioninAvenueAwouldsuffer，shouldsheappearinthestreetswearinganythinglesscostlythanseal-skinandvelvetorsuchimitationsofthoseexpensivematerialsasherstipendwouldpermit。
IhaveastenantsofasmallwoodenhouseinJerseyCity，abankclerk，hiswifeandtheirthreedaughters。Heearnsintheneighborhoodoffifteenhundreddollarsayear。Theirrentwithwhich，bytheway，theyarealwaysinarrearsisthreehundreddollars。Iamfavoredspringandautumnbyavisitfromtheladiesofthatfamily，inthehopegenerallyfutileofinducingmetodosomeornamentalpaperingorpaintingintheirresidence，subjectsonwhichtheyhavebyexperiencefoundmyagenttobeunapproachable。Whenthosefourwomendescenduponme，Iamfairlydazzledbythesplendoroftheirattire，andlostinwonderastohowthepriceofallthatfinerycanhavebeensqueezedoutofthetwelveremaininghundredsoftheirincome。WhenImeetthefatherheisshabbytotheouterlimitsofthegenteel。Hishathas，Iamsure，supportedthesunsandsnowstormsofadozenseasons。Thereisathreadbareshineonhisapparelthatsuggestsaheartacheineachwhitenedseam，buttheladiesaremirrorsoffashion，aswellasmouldsofform。Whatcanremainforanycreaturecomfortsafterallthosefineclotheshavebeenpaidfor？Andhowmuchisputawayfortheyearswhenthelong-sufferingmoneymakerwillbepastwork，orsavedtowardsthetimewhensicknessoraccidentshallappearonthehorizon？Howthoseladieshadthe\"nerve\"toenteraferryboatorcrowdintoacablecar，dressedastheywere，hasalwaysbeenamarveltome。Alandauandtwoliveriedservantswouldbarelyhavebeeninkeepingwiththeirappearance。
Notlongago，agreatEnglishnobleman，whoisalsofamousintheyachtingworld，visitedthiscountryaccompaniedbyhistwodaughters，high-bredandgenialladies。Noself-respectingAmericanshopgirlorfashionabletypewriterwouldhavecondescendedtoappearintheinexpensiveattirewhichthoseEnglishwomenwore。Whereveronemetthem，atdinner，FETE，orball，theywerealwaysthemostsimplydressedwomenintheroom。
Iwonderifiteveroccurredtoanyoftheirgorgeouslyattiredhostesses，thatitwasbecausetheirtransatlanticguestsweresosureoftheirposition，thattheycontentedthemselveswithsuchsimpletoiletsknowingthatnothingtheymightwearcouldeitherimproveoraltertheirstandingInformerages，sumptuarylawswereenactedbyparentalgovernments，inthehopeofsuppressingextravaganceindress，thestateofaffairswedeplorenow，notbeinganewdevelopmentofhumanweakness，butasoldaswealth。
Thedesiretoshinebythesplendorofone\'strappingsisthefirstideaoftheparvenu，especiallyhereinthiscountry，wheretheambitiousaredeniedthepleasureofacquiringatitle，andwhereofficialrankcarrieswithitsolittlesocialweight。Fewmorestrikingwayspresentthemselvestothecrudeandhalf-educatedfortheexpenditureofanewfortunethanthepurchaseofsumptuousapparel，thesatisfactionbeingimmediateandmaterial。Thewearerofacompleteandperfecttoiletmustexperienceadelightofwhichtheuninitiatedknownothing，forsuchcruelsacrificesaremadeandsomanyprivationsenduredtoprocurethissatisfaction。WhenIseegroupsofwomen，cladinthelatestdesignsofpurpleandfinelinen，standshiveringonstreetcornersofawinternight，untiltheycancrowdintoacar，Idoubtifthejoytheygetfromtheirclothes，compensatesthemforthecreaturecomfortstheyareforcedtoforego，andIwonderifitneveroccurstothemtospendlessontheirwardrobesandsofeeltheycanaffordtoreturnfromatheatreorconcertcomfortably，inacab，asaforeignwoman，withtheirincomewoulddo。
ThereisastoicaldeterminationabouttheAmericanpointofviewthatcompelsacertainamountofrespect。Ourcountrywomenwilldenythemselvespleasures，willeconomizeontheirfoodandwillremainintownduringthesummer，butwhenwalkingabroadtheymustbecladinthebest，sothatnoonemayknowbytheirappearanceiftheincomebecountedbyhundredsorthousands。
Whilethesestandardsprevailandthefemalemindisfixedonthissubjectwithsuchdireintent，itisnotastonishingthataweakersisterisoccasionallytemptedbeyondherpowersofresistance。
Northateachdayanewcaseofawell-dressedwomanthievinginashopreachesourears。Thepoorfeeble-mindedcreatureisnottoblame。SheisbutthereflexionofthemindsaroundherandisprobablyliketheladyEmersontellsof，whoconfessedtohim\"thatthesenseofbeingperfectlywell-dressedhadgivenherafeelingofinwardtranquillitywhichreligionwaspowerlesstobestow。\"
CHAPTER5-OnSomeGildedMisalliancesADEARoldAmericanlady，wholivedthegreaterpartofherlifeinRome，andreceivedeverybodyworthknowinginherspaciousdrawing-rooms，farupinthedimvastnessesofaRomanpalace，usedtosaythatshehadonlyknownonereallyhappymarriagemadebyanAmericangirlabroad。
Inthosedays，beingyoungandinnocent，Iconsideredthatremarkcynical，andinmyheartthoughtnothingcouldbemoreromanticandcharmingthanforafaircompatriottoassumeanhistorictitleandretiretoherhusband\'sestates，andrulesmilinglyoverhimandadevotedtenantry，asinthelastactofacomicopera，whenarose-
coloredlightisburningandtheorchestraplaysthelastbrilliantchordsofaweddingmarch。
Thereseemedtomypervertedsenseacertainpoeticjusticeaboutthefactthatmoney，gainedhonestlybutprosaically，ingroceriesorgas，shouldgotoregildanancientblazonorpropupthecrumblingwallsofsomestatelypalaceabroad。
Manythoughtfulyearsandmanycruelrealitieshavetaughtmethatmygracioushostessofthe\"seventies\"wasright，andthatmarriageundertheseconditionsisapttobemuchmorelikethecomicoperaafterthecurtainhasbeenrungdown，whenthelightsareout，theapplaudingpublicgonehome，andthewearyactorsbroughtslowlybacktothepresentandthepositive，arewonderinghowtheyaretopaytheirrentordodgethewarrantinambusharoundthecorner。
Internationalmarriagesusuallycomeaboutfromadeficientknowledgeoftheworld。Thefatherbecomesrich，thefamilytravelabroad，somemutualfriendoftenfrompurelyinterestedmotives
producesasuitorforthehandofthedaughter，intheshapeofa\"prince\"withatitlethatmakesthewholesimpleAmericanfamilyquiverwithdelight。