Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem，thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places，too，areshocking。Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves，ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem，mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression。
Butthedarkness-notofskin，butmind-whichmeetsthestranger\'seyeateveryturn；thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNature\'shand；immeasurablyoutdohisworstbelief。Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatirist\'sbrain，whofreshfromlivingamonghorses，peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror，wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight，thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe。
Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge，who，afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight，andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles，waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouro\'clockinthemorning；andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas，andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle。
IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore；butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident，andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain，wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcomethereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat，inpursuitofrunawayslaves，andhaltingthereagainforonenight，wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon。
ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates，andtheywerenotafew，isBarnum\'s，inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed，forthefirstandprobablythelasttimeinAmericathisisadisinterestedremark，forIneverusethem；andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself，whichisnotatallacommoncase。
ThiscapitalofthestateofMarylandisabustling，busytown，withagreatdealoftrafficofvariouskinds，andinparticularofwatercommerce。Thatportionofthetownwhichitmostfavoursisnoneofthecleanest，itistrue；buttheupperpartisofaverydifferentcharacter，andhasmanyagreeablestreetsandpublicbuildings。TheWashingtonMonument，whichisahandsomepillarwithastatueonitssummit；theMedicalCollege；andtheBattleMonumentinmemoryofanengagementwiththeBritishatNorthPoint；arethemostconspicuousamongthem。
Thereisaverygoodprisoninthiscity，andtheStatePenitentiaryisalsoamongitsinstitutions。Inthislatterestablishmentthereweretwocuriouscases。
Onewasthatofayoungman，whohadbeentriedforthemurderofhisfather。Theevidencewasentirelycircumstantial，andwasveryconflictinganddoubtful；norwasitpossibletoassignanymotivewhichcouldhavetemptedhimtothecommissionofsotremendousacrime。Hehadbeentriedtwice；andonthesecondoccasionthejuryfeltsomuchhesitationinconvictinghim，thattheyfoundaverdictofmanslaughter，ormurderintheseconddegree；whichitcouldnotpossiblybe，astherehad，beyondalldoubt，beennoquarrelorprovocation，andifhewereguiltyatall，hewasunquestionablyguiltyofmurderinitsbroadestandworstsignification。
Theremarkablefeatureinthecasewas，thatiftheunfortunatedeceasedwerenotreallymurderedbythisownsonofhis，hemusthavebeenmurderedbyhisownbrother。Theevidencelayinamostremarkablemanner，betweenthosetwo。Onallthesuspiciouspoints，thedeadman\'sbrotherwasthewitness:alltheexplanationsfortheprisonersomeofthemextremelyplausible
went，byconstructionandinference，toinculcatehimasplottingtofixtheguiltuponhisnephew。Itmusthavebeenoneofthem:
andthejuryhadtodecidebetweentwosetsofsuspicions，almostequallyunnatural，unaccountable，andstrange。
Theothercase，wasthatofamanwhooncewenttoacertaindistiller\'sandstoleacoppermeasurecontainingaquantityofliquor。Hewaspursuedandtakenwiththepropertyinhispossession，andwassentencedtotwoyears\'imprisonment。Oncomingoutofthejail，attheexpirationofthatterm，hewentbacktothesamedistiller\'s，andstolethesamecoppermeasurecontainingthesamequantityofliquor。Therewasnottheslightestreasontosupposethatthemanwishedtoreturntoprison:indeedeverything，butthecommissionoftheoffence，madedirectlyagainstthatassumption。Thereareonlytwowaysofaccountingforthisextraordinaryproceeding。Oneis，thatafterundergoingsomuchforthiscoppermeasureheconceivedhehadestablishedasortofclaimandrighttoit。Theotherthat，bydintoflongthinkingabout，ithadbecomeamonomaniawithhim，andhadacquiredafascinationwhichhefounditimpossibletoresist；swellingfromanEarthlyCopperGallonintoanEtherealGoldenVat。
AfterremaininghereacoupleofdaysIboundmyselftoarigidadherencetotheplanIhadlaiddownsorecently，andresolvedtosetforwardonourwesternjourneywithoutanymoredelay。
Accordingly，havingreducedtheluggagewithinthesmallestpossiblecompassbysendingbacktoNewYork，tobeafterwardsforwardedtousinCanada，somuchofitaswasnotabsolutelywanted；andhavingprocuredthenecessarycredentialstobanking-
housesontheway；andhavingmoreoverlookedfortwoeveningsatthesettingsun，withaswell-definedanideaofthecountrybeforeusasifwehadbeengoingtotravelintotheverycentreofthatplanet；weleftBaltimorebyanotherrailwayathalf-pasteightinthemorning，andreachedthetownofYork，somesixtymilesoff，bytheearlydinner-timeoftheHotelwhichwasthestarting-placeofthefour-horsecoach，whereinweweretoproceedtoHarrisburg。
Thisconveyance，theboxofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtosecure，hadcomedowntomeetusattherailroadstation，andwasasmuddyandcumbersomeasusual。Asmorepassengerswerewaitingforusattheinn-door，thecoachmanobservedunderhisbreath，intheusualself-communicativevoice，lookingthewhileathismouldyharnessasifitweretothathewasaddressinghimself，\'IexpectweshallwantTHEBIGcoach。\'
Icouldnothelpwonderingwithinmyselfwhatthesizeofthisbigcoachmightbe，andhowmanypersonsitmightbedesignedtohold；
forthevehiclewhichwastoosmallforourpurposewassomethinglargerthantwoEnglishheavynightcoaches，andmighthavebeenthetwin-brotherofaFrenchDiligence。Myspeculationswerespeedilysetatrest，however，forassoonaswehaddined，therecamerumblingupthestreet，shakingitssideslikeacorpulentgiant，akindofbargeonwheels。Aftermuchblunderingandbacking，itstoppedatthedoor:rollingheavilyfromsidetosidewhenitsothermotionhadceased，asifithadtakencoldinitsdampstable，andbetweenthat，andthehavingbeenrequiredinitsdropsicaloldagetomoveatanyfasterpacethanawalk，weredistressedbyshortnessofwind。
\'Ifhereain\'ttheHarrisburgmailatlast，anddreadfulbrightandsmarttolookattoo，\'criedanelderlygentlemaninsomeexcitement，\'darnmymother!\'
Idon\'tknowwhatthesensationofbeingdarnedmaybe，orwhetheraman\'smotherhasakeenerrelishordisrelishoftheprocessthananybodyelse；butiftheenduranceofthismysteriousceremonybytheoldladyinquestionhaddependedontheaccuracyofherson\'svisioninrespecttotheabstractbrightnessandsmartnessoftheHarrisburgmail，shewouldcertainlyhaveundergoneitsinfliction。
However，theybookedtwelvepeopleinside；andtheluggageincludingsuchtriflesasalargerocking-chair，andagood-sizeddining-tablebeingatlengthmadefastupontheroof，westartedoffingreatstate。
Atthedoorofanotherhotel，therewasanotherpassengertobetakenup。
\'Anyroom，sir？\'criesthenewpassengertothecoachman。
\'Well，there\'sroomenough，\'repliesthecoachman，withoutgettingdown，orevenlookingathim。
\'Therean\'tnoroomatall，sir，\'bawlsagentlemaninside。Whichanothergentlemanalsoinsideconfirms，bypredictingthattheattempttointroduceanymorepassengers\'won\'tfitnohow。\'
Thenewpassenger，withoutanyexpressionofanxiety，looksintothecoach，andthenlooksupatthecoachman:\'Now，howdoyoumeantofixit？\'sayshe，afterapause:\'forIMUSTgo。\'
Thecoachmanemployshimselfintwistingthelashofhiswhipintoaknot，andtakesnomorenoticeofthequestion:clearlysignifyingthatitisanybody\'sbusinessbuthis，andthatthepassengerswoulddowelltofixit，amongthemselves。Inthisstateofthings，mattersseemtobeapproximatingtoafixofanotherkind，whenanotherinsidepassengerinacorner，whoisnearlysuffocated，criesfaintly，\'I\'llgetout。\'
Thisisnomatterofrelieforself-congratulationtothedriver，forhisimmovablephilosophyisperfectlyundisturbedbyanythingthathappensinthecoach。Ofallthingsintheworld，thecoachwouldseemtobetheverylastuponhismind。Theexchangeismade，however，andthenthepassengerwhohasgivenuphisseatmakesathirduponthebox，seatinghimselfinwhathecallsthemiddle；thatis，withhalfhispersononmylegs，andtheotherhalfonthedriver\'s。
\'Goa-head，cap\'en，\'criesthecolonel，whodirects。
\'Go-lang!\'criesthecap\'entohiscompany，thehorses，andawaywego。
Wetookupataruralbar-room，afterwehadgoneafewmiles，anintoxicatedgentlemanwhoclimbedupontheroofamongtheluggage，andsubsequentlyslippingoffwithouthurtinghimself，wasseeninthedistantperspectivereelingbacktothegrog-shopwherewehadfoundhim。Wealsopartedwithmoreofourfreightatdifferenttimes，sothatwhenwecametochangehorses，Iwasagainaloneoutside。
Thecoachmenalwayschangewiththehorses，andareusuallyasdirtyasthecoach。ThefirstwasdressedlikeaveryshabbyEnglishbaker；thesecondlikeaRussianpeasant:forheworealoosepurplecamletrobe，withafurcollar，tiedroundhiswaistwithaparti-colouredworstedsash；greytrousers；lightbluegloves:andacapofbearskin。Ithadbythistimecomeontorainveryheavily，andtherewasacolddampmistbesides，whichpenetratedtotheskin。Iwasgladtotakeadvantageofastoppageandgetdowntostretchmylegs，shakethewateroffmygreat-coat，andswallowtheusualanti-temperancerecipeforkeepingoutthecold。
WhenImountedtomyseatagain，Iobservedanewparcellyingonthecoachroof，whichItooktobearatherlargefiddleinabrownbag。Inthecourseofafewmiles，however，Idiscoveredthatithadaglazedcapatoneendandapairofmuddyshoesattheotherandfurtherobservationdemonstratedittobeasmallboyinasnuff-colouredcoat，withhisarmsquitepinionedtohissides，bydeepforcingintohispockets。Hewas，Ipresume，arelativeorfriendofthecoachman\'s，ashelaya-topoftheluggagewithhisfacetowardstherain；andexceptwhenachangeofpositionbroughthisshoesincontactwithmyhat，heappearedtobeasleep。Atlast，onsomeoccasionofourstopping，thisthingslowlyupreareditselftotheheightofthreefeetsix，andfixingitseyesonme，observedinpipingaccents，withacomplaisantyawn，halfquenchedinanobligingairoffriendlypatronage，\'Wellnow，stranger，I
guessyoufindthisa\'mostlikeanEnglisharternoon，hey？\'
Thescenery，whichhadbeentameenoughatfirst，was，forthelasttenortwelvemiles，beautiful。OurroadwoundthroughthepleasantvalleyoftheSusquehanna；theriver，dottedwithinnumerablegreenislands，layuponourright；andontheleft，asteepascent，craggywithbrokenrock，anddarkwithpinetrees。
Themist，wreathingitselfintoahundredfantasticshapes，movedsolemnlyuponthewater；andthegloomofeveninggavetoallanairofmysteryandsilencewhichgreatlyenhanceditsnaturalinterest。
Wecrossedthisriverbyawoodenbridge，roofedandcoveredinonallsides，andnearlyamileinlength。Itwasprofoundlydark；
perplexed，withgreatbeams，crossingandrecrossingitateverypossibleangle；andthroughthebroadchinksandcrevicesinthefloor，therapidrivergleamed，fardownbelow，likealegionofeyes。Wehadnolamps；andasthehorsesstumbledandflounderedthroughthisplace，towardsthedistantspeckofdyinglight，itseemedinterminable。Ireallycouldnotatfirstpersuademyselfaswerumbledheavilyon，fillingthebridgewithhollownoises，andIhelddownmyheadtosaveitfromtheraftersabove，butthatIwasinapainfuldream；forIhaveoftendreamedoftoilingthroughsuchplaces，andasoftenargued，evenatthetime，\'thiscannotbereality。\'
Atlength，however，weemergeduponthestreetsofHarrisburg，whosefeeblelights，reflecteddismallyfromthewetground，didnotshineoutuponaverycheerfulcity。Weweresoonestablishedinasnughotel，whichthoughsmallerandfarlesssplendidthanmanyweputupat，itraisedabovethemallinmyremembrance，byhavingforitslandlordthemostobliging，considerate，andgentlemanlypersonIeverhadtodealwith。
Aswewerenottoproceeduponourjourneyuntiltheafternoon，I
walkedout，afterbreakfastthenextmorning，tolookaboutme；andwasdulyshownamodelprisononthesolitarysystem，justerected，andasyetwithoutaninmate；thetrunkofanoldtreetowhichHarris，thefirstsettlerhereafterwardsburiedunderit，wastiedbyhostileIndians，withhisfuneralpileabouthim，whenhewassavedbythetimelyappearanceofafriendlypartyontheoppositeshoreoftheriver；thelocallegislaturefortherewasanotherofthosebodieshereagain，infulldebate；andtheothercuriositiesofthetown。
IwasverymuchinterestedinlookingoveranumberoftreatiesmadefromtimetotimewiththepoorIndians，signedbythedifferentchiefsattheperiodoftheirratification，andpreservedintheofficeoftheSecretarytotheCommonwealth。Thesesignatures，tracedofcoursebytheirownhands，areroughdrawingsofthecreaturesorweaponstheywerecalledafter。Thus，theGreatTurtlemakesacrookedpen-and-inkoutlineofagreatturtle；
theBuffalosketchesabuffalo；theWarHatchetsetsaroughimageofthatweaponforhismark。SowiththeArrow，theFish，theScalp，theBigCanoe，andallofthem。
Icouldnotbutthink-asIlookedatthesefeebleandtremulousproductionsofhandswhichcoulddrawthelongestarrowtotheheadinastoutelk-hornbow，orsplitabeadorfeatherwitharifle-
ball-ofCrabbe\'smusingsovertheParishRegister，andtheirregularscratchesmadewithapen，bymenwhowouldploughalengthyfurrowstraightfromendtoend。NorcouldIhelpbestowingmanysorrowfulthoughtsuponthesimplewarriorswhosehandsandheartsweresetthere，inalltruthandhonesty；andwhoonlylearnedincourseoftimefromwhitemenhowtobreaktheirfaith，andquibbleoutofformsandbonds。Iwonder，too，howmanytimesthecredulousBigTurtle，ortrustingLittleHatchet，hadputhismarktotreatieswhichwerefalselyreadtohim；andhadsignedaway，heknewnotwhat，untilitwentandcasthimlooseuponthenewpossessorsoftheland，asavageindeed。
Ourhostannounced，beforeourearlydinner，thatsomemembersofthelegislativebodyproposedtodousthehonourofcalling。Hehadkindlyyieldeduptoushiswife\'sownlittleparlour，andwhenIbeggedthathewouldshowthemin，Isawhimlookwithpainfulapprehensionatitsprettycarpet；though，beingotherwiseoccupiedatthetime，thecauseofhisuneasinessdidnotoccurtome。
Itcertainlywouldhavebeenmorepleasanttoallpartiesconcerned，andwouldnot，Ithink，havecompromisedtheirindependenceinanymaterialdegree，ifsomeofthesegentlemenhadnotonlyyieldedtotheprejudiceinfavourofspittoons，buthadabandonedthemselves，forthemoment，eventotheconventionalabsurdityofpocket-handkerchiefs。
Itstillcontinuedtorainheavily，andwhenwewentdowntotheCanalBoatforthatwasthemodeofconveyancebywhichweweretoproceedafterdinner，theweatherwasasunpromisingandobstinatelywetasonewoulddesiretosee。Norwasthesightofthiscanalboat，inwhichweweretospendthreeorfourdays，byanymeansacheerfulone；asitinvolvedsomeuneasyspeculationsconcerningthedisposalofthepassengersatnight，andopenedawidefieldofinquirytouchingtheotherdomesticarrangementsoftheestablishment，whichwassufficientlydisconcerting。
However，thereitwas-abargewithalittlehouseinit，viewedfromtheoutside；andacaravanatafair，viewedfromwithin:thegentlemenbeingaccommodated，asthespectatorsusuallyare，inoneofthoselocomotivemuseumsofpennywonders；andtheladiesbeingpartitionedoffbyaredcurtain，afterthemannerofthedwarfsandgiantsinthesameestablishments，whoseprivatelivesarepassedinrathercloseexclusiveness。
Wesathere，lookingsilentlyattherowoflittletables，whichextendeddownbothsidesofthecabin，andlisteningtotherainasitdrippedandpatteredontheboat，andplashedwithadismalmerrimentinthewater，untilthearrivaloftherailwaytrain，forwhosefinalcontributiontoourstockofpassengers，ourdeparturewasalonedeferred。Itbroughtagreatmanyboxes，whichwerebumpedandtossedupontheroof，almostaspainfullyasiftheyhadbeendepositedonone\'sownhead，withouttheinterventionofaporter\'sknot；andseveraldampgentlemen，whoseclothes，ontheirdrawingroundthestove，begantosteamagain。Nodoubtitwouldhavebeenathoughtmorecomfortableifthedrivingrain，whichnowpoureddownmoresoakinglythanever，hadadmittedofawindowbeingopened，orifournumberhadbeensomethinglessthanthirty；
buttherewasscarcelytimetothinkasmuch，whenatrainofthreehorseswasattachedtothetow-rope，theboyupontheleadersmackedhiswhip，theruddercreakedandgroanedcomplainingly，andwehadbegunourjourney。
CHAPTERX-SOMEFURTHERACCOUNTOFTHECANALBOAT，ITSDOMESTIC
ECONOMY，ANDITSPASSENGERS。JOURNEYTOPITTSBURGACROSSTHE
ALLEGHANYMOUNTAINS。PITTSBURG
ASitcontinuedtorainmostperseveringly，weallremainedbelow:
thedampgentlemenroundthestove，graduallybecomingmildewedbytheactionofthefire；andthedrygentlemenlyingatfulllengthupontheseats，orslumberinguneasilywiththeirfacesonthetables，orwalkingupanddownthecabin，whichitwasbarelypossibleforamanofthemiddleheighttodo，withoutmakingbaldplacesonhisheadbyscrapingitagainsttheroof。Ataboutsixo\'clock，allthesmalltableswereputtogethertoformonelongtable，andeverybodysatdowntotea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steaks，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-
puddings，andsausages。
\'Willyoutry，\'saidmyoppositeneighbour，handingmeadishofpotatoes，brokenupinmilkandbutter，\'willyoutrysomeofthesefixings？\'
Therearefewwordswhichperformsuchvariousdutiesasthisword\'fix。\'ItistheCalebQuotemoftheAmericanvocabulary。Youcalluponagentlemaninacountrytown，andhishelpinformsyouthatheis\'fixinghimself\'justnow，butwillbedowndirectly:
bywhichyouaretounderstandthatheisdressing。Youinquire，onboardasteamboat，ofafellow-passenger，whetherbreakfastwillbereadysoon，andhetellsyouheshouldthinkso，forwhenhewaslastbelow，theywere\'fixingthetables:\'inotherwords，layingthecloth。Youbegaportertocollectyourluggage，andheentreatsyounottobeuneasy，forhe\'ll\'fixitpresently:\'andifyoucomplainofindisposition，youareadvisedtohaverecoursetoDoctorSo-and-so，whowill\'fixyou\'innotime。
Onenight，IorderedabottleofmulledwineatanhotelwhereI
wasstaying，andwaitedalongtimeforit；atlengthitwasputuponthetablewithanapologyfromthelandlordthathefeareditwasn\'t\'fixedproperly。\'AndIrecollectonce，atastage-coachdinner，overhearingaverysterngentlemandemandofawaiterwhopresentedhimwithaplateofunderdoneroast-beef，\'whetherhecalledTHAT，fixingGodA\'mighty\'svittles？\'
Thereisnodoubtthatthemeal，atwhichtheinvitationwastenderedtomewhichhasoccasionedthisdigression，wasdisposedofsomewhatravenously；andthatthegentlementhrustthebroad-
bladedknivesandthetwo-prongedforksfurtherdowntheirthroatsthanIeversawthesameweaponsgobefore，exceptinthehandsofaskilfuljuggler:butnomansatdownuntiltheladieswereseated；oromittedanylittleactofpolitenesswhichcouldcontributetotheircomfort。NordidIeveronce，onanyoccasion，anywhere，duringmyramblesinAmerica，seeawomanexposedtotheslightestactofrudeness，incivility，oreveninattention。
Bythetimethemealwasover，therain，whichseemedtohavewornitselfoutbycomingdownsofast，wasnearlyovertoo；anditbecamefeasibletogoondeck:whichwasagreatrelief，notwithstandingitsbeingaverysmalldeck，andbeingrenderedstillsmallerbytheluggage，whichwasheapedtogetherinthemiddleunderatarpaulincovering；leaving，oneitherside，apathsonarrow，thatitbecameasciencetowalktoandfrowithouttumblingoverboardintothecanal。Itwassomewhatembarrassingatfirst，too，tohavetoducknimblyeveryfiveminuteswheneverthemanatthehelmcried\'Bridge!\'andsometimes，whenthecrywas\'LowBridge，\'toliedownnearlyflat。Butcustomfamiliarisesonetoanything，andthereweresomanybridgesthatittookaveryshorttimetogetusedtothis。
Asnightcameon，andwedrewinsightofthefirstrangeofhills，whicharetheoutpostsoftheAlleghanyMountains，thescenery，whichhadbeenuninterestinghitherto，becamemoreboldandstriking。Thewetgroundreekedandsmoked，aftertheheavyfallofrain，andthecroakingofthefrogswhosenoiseinthesepartsisalmostincrediblesoundedasthoughamillionoffairyteamswithbellsweretravellingthroughtheair，andkeepingpacewithus。Thenightwascloudyyet，butmoonlighttoo:andwhenwecrossedtheSusquehannariver-overwhichthereisanextraordinarywoodenbridgewithtwogalleries，oneabovetheother，sothateventhere，twoboatteamsmeeting，maypasswithoutconfusion-itwaswildandgrand。
Ihavementionedmyhavingbeeninsomeuncertaintyanddoubt，atfirst，relativetothesleepingarrangementsonboardthisboat。I
remainedinthesamevaguestateofminduntilteno\'clockorthereabouts，whengoingbelow，Ifoundsuspendedoneithersideofthecabin，threelongtiersofhangingbookshelves，designedapparentlyforvolumesofthesmalloctavosize。Lookingwithgreaterattentionatthesecontrivanceswonderingtofindsuchliterarypreparationsinsuchaplace，Idescriedoneachshelfasortofmicroscopicsheetandblanket；thenIbegandimlytocomprehendthatthepassengerswerethelibrary，andthattheyweretobearranged，edge-wise，ontheseshelves，tillmorning。
Iwasassistedtothisconclusionbyseeingsomeofthemgatheredroundthemasteroftheboat，atoneofthetables，drawinglotswithalltheanxietiesandpassionsofgamestersdepictedintheircountenances；whileothers，withsmallpiecesofcardboardintheirhands，weregropingamongtheshelvesinsearchofnumberscorrespondingwiththosetheyhaddrawn。Assoonasanygentlemanfoundhisnumber，hetookpossessionofitbyimmediatelyundressinghimselfandcrawlingintobed。Therapiditywithwhichanagitatedgamblersubsidedintoasnoringslumberer，wasoneofthemostsingulareffectsIhaveeverwitnessed。Astotheladies，theywerealreadyabed，behindtheredcurtain，whichwascarefullydrawnandpinnedupthecentre；thoughaseverycough，orsneeze，orwhisper，behindthiscurtain，wasperfectlyaudiblebeforeit，wehadstillalivelyconsciousnessoftheirsociety。
Thepolitenessofthepersoninauthorityhadsecuredtomeashelfinanooknearthisredcurtain，insomedegreeremovedfromthegreatbodyofsleepers:towhichplaceIretired，withmanyacknowledgmentstohimforhisattention。Ifoundit，onafter-
measurement，justthewidthofanordinarysheetofBathpostletter-paper；andIwasatfirstinsomeuncertaintyastothebestmeansofgettingintoit。Buttheshelfbeingabottomone，I
finallydeterminedonlyinguponthefloor，rollinggentlyin，stoppingimmediatelyItouchedthemattress，andremainingforthenightwiththatsideuppermost，whateveritmightbe。Luckily，I
cameuponmybackatexactlytherightmoment。Iwasmuchalarmedonlookingupward，tosee，bytheshapeofhishalf-yardofsackingwhichhisweighthadbentintoanexceedinglytightbag，thattherewasaveryheavygentlemanaboveme，whomtheslendercordsseemedquiteincapableofholding；andIcouldnothelpreflectinguponthegriefofmywifeandfamilyintheeventofhiscomingdowninthenight。ButasIcouldnothavegotupagainwithoutaseverebodilystruggle，whichmighthavealarmedtheladies；andasIhadnowheretogoto，evenifIhad；Ishutmyeyesuponthedanger，andremainedthere。
Oneoftworemarkablecircumstancesisindisputablyafact，withreferencetothatclassofsocietywhotravelintheseboats。
Eithertheycarrytheirrestlessnesstosuchapitchthattheyneversleepatall；ortheyexpectorateindreams，whichwouldbearemarkableminglingoftherealandideal。Allnightlong，andeverynight，onthiscanal，therewasaperfectstormandtempestofspitting；andoncemycoat，beingintheverycentreofthehurricanesustainedbyfivegentlemenwhichmovedvertically，strictlycarryingoutReid\'sTheoryoftheLawofStorms，Iwasfainthenextmorningtolayitonthedeck，andrubitdownwithfairwaterbeforeitwasinaconditiontobewornagain。
Betweenfiveandsixo\'clockinthemorningwegotup，andsomeofuswentondeck，togivethemanopportunityoftakingtheshelvesdown；whileothers，themorningbeingverycold，crowdedroundtherustystove，cherishingthenewlykindledfire，andfillingthegratewiththosevoluntarycontributionsofwhichtheyhadbeensoliberalallnight。Thewashingaccommodationswereprimitive。
Therewasatinladlechainedtothedeck，withwhicheverygentlemanwhothoughtitnecessarytocleansehimselfmanyweresuperiortothisweakness，fishedthedirtywateroutofthecanal，andpoureditintoatinbasin，securedinlikemanner。
Therewasalsoajack-towel。And，hangingupbeforealittlelooking-glassinthebar，intheimmediatevicinityofthebreadandcheeseandbiscuits，wereapubliccombandhair-brush。
Ateighto\'clock，theshelvesbeingtakendownandputawayandthetablesjoinedtogether，everybodysatdowntothetea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，alloveragain。Somewerefondofcompoundingthisvariety，andhavingitallontheirplatesatonce。Aseachgentlemangotthroughhisownpersonalamountoftea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，heroseupandwalkedoff。Wheneverybodyhaddonewitheverything，thefragmentswereclearedaway:andoneofthewaitersappearinganewinthecharacterofabarber，shavedsuchofthecompanyasdesiredtobeshaved；whiletheremainderlookedon，oryawnedovertheirnewspapers。Dinnerwasbreakfastagain，withouttheteaandcoffee；andsupperandbreakfastwereidentical。
Therewasamanonboardthisboat，withalightfresh-colouredface，andapepper-and-saltsuitofclothes，whowasthemostinquisitivefellowthatcanpossiblybeimagined。Heneverspokeotherwisethaninterrogatively。Hewasanembodiedinquiry。
Sittingdownorstandingup，stillormoving，walkingthedeckortakinghismeals，therehewas，withagreatnoteofinterrogationineacheye，twoinhiscockedears，twomoreinhisturned-upnoseandchin，atleasthalfadozenmoreaboutthecornersofhismouth，andthelargestoneofallinhishair，whichwasbrushedpertlyoffhisforeheadinaflaxenclump。Everybuttoninhisclothessaid，\'Eh？What\'sthat？Didyouspeak？Saythatagain，willyou？\'Hewasalwayswideawake，liketheenchantedbridewhodroveherhusbandfrantic；alwaysrestless；alwaysthirstingforanswers；perpetuallyseekingandneverfinding。Thereneverwassuchacuriousman。
Iworeafurgreat-coatatthattime，andbeforewewerewellclearofthewharf，hequestionedmeconcerningit，anditsprice，andwhereIboughtit，andwhen，andwhatfuritwas，andwhatitweighed，andwhatitcost。Thenhetooknoticeofmywatch，andaskedmewhatTHATcost，andwhetheritwasaFrenchwatch，andwhereIgotit，andhowIgotit，andwhetherIboughtitorhaditgivenme，andhowitwent，andwherethekey-holewas，andwhenI
woundit，everynightoreverymorning，andwhetherIeverforgottowinditatall，andifIdid，whatthen？WherehadIbeentolast，andwherewasIgoingnext，andwherewasIgoingafterthat，andhadIseenthePresident，andwhatdidhesay，andwhatdidI
say，andwhatdidhesaywhenIhadsaidthat？Eh？Lornow!dotell!
Findingthatnothingwouldsatisfyhim，Ievadedhisquestionsafterthefirstscoreortwo，andinparticularpleadedignorancerespectingthenameofthefurwhereofthecoatwasmade。Iamunabletosaywhetherthiswasthereason，butthatcoatfascinatedhimafterwards；heusuallykeptclosebehindmeasIwalked，andmovedasImoved，thathemightlookatitthebetter；andhefrequentlydivedintonarrowplacesaftermeattheriskofhislife，thathemighthavethesatisfactionofpassinghishanduptheback，andrubbingitthewrongway。
Wehadanotheroddspecimenonboard，ofadifferentkind。Thiswasathin-faced，spare-figuredmanofmiddleageandstature，dressedinadustydrabbish-colouredsuit，suchasIneversawbefore。Hewasperfectlyquietduringthefirstpartofthejourney:indeedIdon\'trememberhavingsomuchasseenhimuntilhewasbroughtoutbycircumstances，asgreatmenoftenare。Theconjunctionofeventswhichmadehimfamous，happened，briefly，thus。
Thecanalextendstothefootofthemountain，andthere，ofcourse，itstops；thepassengersbeingconveyedacrossitbylandcarriage，andtakenonafterwardsbyanothercanalboat，thecounterpartofthefirst，whichawaitsthemontheotherside。
Therearetwocanallinesofpassage-boats；oneiscalledTheExpress，andoneacheaperoneThePioneer。ThePioneergetsfirsttothemountain，andwaitsfortheExpresspeopletocomeup；
bothsetsofpassengersbeingconveyedacrossitatthesametime。
WeweretheExpresscompany；butwhenwehadcrossedthemountain，andhadcometothesecondboat，theproprietorstookitintotheirbeadstodraftallthePioneersintoitlikewise，sothatwewerefive-and-fortyatleast，andtheaccessionofpassengerswasnotatallofthatkindwhichimprovedtheprospectofsleepingatnight。
Ourpeoplegrumbledatthis，aspeopledoinsuchcases；butsufferedtheboattobetowedoffwiththewholefreightaboardnevertheless；andawaywewentdownthecanal。Athome，Ishouldhaveprotestedlustily，butbeingaforeignerhere，Iheldmypeace。Notsothispassenger。Hecleftapathamongthepeopleondeckwewerenearlyallondeck，andwithoutaddressinganybodywhomsoever，soliloquisedasfollows:
\'ThismaysuitYOU，thismay，butitdon\'tsuitME。ThismaybeallverywellwithDownEasters，andmenofBostonraising，butitwon\'tsuitmyfigurenohow；andnotwowaysaboutTHAT；andsoI
tellyou。Now!I\'mfromthebrownforestsofMississippi，Iam，andwhenthesunshinesonme，itdoesshine-alittle。Itdon\'tglimmerwhereIlive，thesundon\'t。No。I\'mabrownforester，I
am。Ian\'taJohnnyCake。TherearenosmoothskinswhereIlive。
We\'reroughmenthere。Rather。IfDownEastersandmenofBostonraisinglikethis，I\'mgladofit，butI\'mnoneofthatraisingnorofthatbreed。No。Thiscompanywantsalittlefixing，ITdoes。
I\'mthewrongsortofmanfor\'em，Iam。Theywon\'tlikeme，THEY
won\'t。Thisispilingofitup，alittletoomountainous，thisis。\'Attheendofeveryoneoftheseshortsentencesheturneduponhisheel，andwalkedtheotherway；checkinghimselfabruptlywhenhehadfinishedanothershortsentence，andturningbackagain。
Itisimpossibleformetosaywhatterrificmeaningwashiddeninthewordsofthisbrownforester，butIknowthattheotherpassengerslookedoninasortofadmiringhorror，andthatpresentlytheboatwasputbacktothewharf，andasmanyofthePioneersascouldbecoaxedorbulliedintogoingaway，weregotridof。
Whenwestartedagain，someoftheboldestspiritsonboard，madeboldtosaytotheobviousoccasionofthisimprovementinourprospects，\'Muchobligedtoyou，sir；\'whereuntothebrownforesterwavinghishand，andstillwalkingupanddownasbefore，replied，\'Noyouan\'t。You\'renoneo\'myraising。Youmayactforyourselves，YOUmay。Ihavepintedouttheway。DownEastersandJohnnyCakescanfollowiftheyplease。Ian\'taJohnnyCake，I
an\'t。IamfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam\'-andsoon，asbefore。Hewasunanimouslyvotedoneofthetablesforhisbedatnight-thereisagreatcontestforthetables-inconsiderationforhispublicservices:andhehadthewarmestcornerbythestovethroughouttherestofthejourney。ButI
nevercouldfindoutthathedidanythingexceptsitthere；nordidIhearhimspeakagainuntil，inthemidstofthebustleandturmoilofgettingtheluggageashoreinthedarkatPittsburg，I
stumbledoverhimashesatsmokingacigaronthecabinsteps，andheardhimmutteringtohimself，withashortlaughofdefiance，\'I
an\'taJohnnyCake，-Ian\'t。I\'mfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam，damme!\'Iaminclinedtoarguefromthis，thathehadneverleftoffsayingso；butIcouldnotmakeanaffidavitofthatpartofthestory，ifrequiredtodosobymyQueenandCountry。
AswehavenotreachedPittsburgyet，however，intheorderofournarrative，Imaygoontoremarkthatbreakfastwasperhapstheleastdesirablemealoftheday，asinadditiontothemanysavouryodoursarisingfromtheeatablesalreadymentioned，therewerewhiffsofgin，whiskey，brandy，andrum，fromthelittlebarhardby，andadecidedseasoningofstaletobacco。Manyofthegentlemenpassengerswerefarfromparticularinrespectoftheirlinen，whichwasinsomecasesasyellowasthelittlerivuletsthathadtrickledfromthecornersoftheirmouthsinchewing，anddriedthere。Norwastheatmospherequitefreefromzephyrwhisperingsofthethirtybedswhichhadjustbeenclearedaway，andofwhichwewerefurtherandmorepressinglyremindedbytheoccasionalappearanceonthetable-clothofakindofGame，notmentionedintheBillofFare。
Andyetdespitetheseoddities-andeventheyhad，formeatleast，ahumouroftheirown-therewasmuchinthismodeoftravellingwhichIheartilyenjoyedatthetime，andlookbackuponwithgreatpleasure。Eventherunningup，bare-necked，atfiveo\'clockinthemorning，fromthetaintedcabintothedirtydeck；
scoopinguptheicywater，plungingone\'sheadintoit，anddrawingitout，allfreshandglowingwiththecold；wasagoodthing。Thefast，briskwalkuponthetowing-path，betweenthattimeandbreakfast，wheneveryveinandarteryseemedtotinglewithhealth；
theexquisitebeautyoftheopeningday，whenlightcamegleamingofffromeverything；thelazymotionoftheboat，whenonelayidlyonthedeck，lookingthrough，ratherthanat，thedeepbluesky；
theglidingonatnight，sonoiselessly，pastfrowninghills，sullenwithdarktrees，andsometimesangryinonered，burningspothighup，whereunseenmenlaycrouchingroundafire；theshiningoutofthebrightstarsundisturbedbynoiseofwheelsorsteam，oranyothersoundthanthelimpidripplingofthewaterastheboatwenton:allthesewerepuredelights。
Thentherewerenewsettlementsanddetachedlog-cabinsandframe-
houses，fullofinterestforstrangersfromanoldcountry:cabinswithsimpleovens，outside，madeofclay；andlodgingsforthepigsnearlyasgoodasmanyofthehumanquarters；brokenwindows，patchedwithworn-outhats，oldclothes，oldboards，fragmentsofblanketsandpaper；andhome-madedressersstandingintheopenairwithoutthedoor，whereonwasrangedthehouseholdstore，nothardtocount，ofearthenjarsandpots。Theeyewaspainedtoseethestumpsofgreattreesthicklystrewnineveryfieldofwheat，andseldomtolosetheeternalswampanddullmorass，withhundredsofrottentrunksandtwistedbranchessteepedinitsunwholesomewater。Itwasquitesadandoppressive，tocomeupongreattractswheresettlershadbeenburningdownthetrees，andwheretheirwoundedbodieslayabout，likethoseofmurderedcreatures，whilehereandtheresomecharredandblackenedgiantrearedalofttwowitheredarms，andseemedtocalldowncursesonhisfoes。
Sometimes，atnight，thewaywoundthroughsomelonelygorge，likeamountainpassinScotland，shiningandcoldlyglitteringinthelightofthemoon，andsoclosedinbyhighsteephillsallround，thatthereseemedtobenoegresssavethroughthenarrowerpathbywhichwehadcome，untiloneruggedhill-sideseemedtoopen，andshuttingoutthemoonlightaswepassedintoitsgloomythroat，wrappedournewcourseinshadeanddarkness。
WehadleftHarrisburgonFriday。OnSundaymorningwearrivedatthefootofthemountain，whichiscrossedbyrailroad。Thereareteninclinedplanes；fiveascending，andfivedescending；thecarriagesaredraggeduptheformer，andletslowlydownthelatter，bymeansofstationaryengines；thecomparativelylevelspacesbetween，beingtraversed，sometimesbyhorse，andsometimesbyenginepower，asthecasedemands。Occasionallytherailsarelaidupontheextremevergeofagiddyprecipice；andlookingfromthecarriagewindow，thetravellergazessheerdown，withoutastoneorscrapoffencebetween，intothemountaindepthsbelow。
Thejourneyisverycarefullymade，however；onlytwocarriagestravellingtogether；andwhileproperprecautionsaretaken，isnottobedreadedforitsdangers。
Itwasveryprettytravellingthus，atarapidpacealongtheheightsofthemountaininakeenwind，tolookdownintoavalleyfulloflightandsoftness；catchingglimpses，throughthetree-