第9章
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  Inthefaceofthisplainfactisitnottime,fortheirownsake,thattheAustraliansshoulddroptheircryagainstyellowpeopleandinducetheirParliamenttoabolish,oratleasttomodify,theirimmigrationlawswithregardtotheyellowrace?

  Australiansareanxioustoextendtheirtrade,andtheyhavesentcommercialcommissionerstoJapanandotherEasterncountrieswiththeviewtodevelopingandexpandingcommerce。Mr。J。B。Suttor,SpecialCommissionerofNewSouthWales,haspublishedthefollowingadvertisement:

  \"NEWSOUTHWALES。TheLandofRewardforCapitalCommerceandIndustry。

  SpeciallysubsidizedsteamersnowgivingdirectservicebetweenSydney,THEPREMIERCOMMERCIALCENTEROFAUSTRALIA,ANDSHANGHAI。

  ThusofferingspecialfacilitiesforCommerceandTourists。

  NEWSOUTHWALESPRODUCTSARESTANDARDSOFEXCELLENCE。\"

  Commerceandfriendshipgotogether,buthowAustralianscanexpecttodeveloptradeinacountrywhosepeoplearenotallowedtocometovisithershoresevenforthepurposesoftrade,passesmycomprehension。Perhaps,havingheardsomuchoftheforgivingandmagnanimousspiritoftheChinese,AustraliansexpecttheChinesetogreetthemwithsmilesandtotradewiththem,whilebeingkickedinreturn。

  Ibelieveinthedoctrineoftheuniversalbrotherhoodofmen。

  ItiscontrarytothelawGodofcreationthatsomepeopleshouldshutoutotherpeoplefromportionsoftheearthsolelyfrommotivesofselfishnessandjealousy;theinjurycausedbysuchselfishactswillsoonerorlaterreactonthedoers。\"Everymanishisownancestor。

  Wearepreparingforthedaysthatcome,andwearewhatweareto-dayonaccountofwhathasgonebefore。\"Thedog-in-the-mangerpolicydevelopsdoggishinstinctsinthosewhopractiseit;and,afterall,civilizationwithoutkindnessandjusticeisnotworthhaving。

  Inconclusion,IwilllettheEnglishpoet,WilliamWordsworth,state\"Nature\'scase\"。

  Listentothesenoblelinesfromtheninthcantoofhis\"Excursion\"。

  \"Alas!whatdiffersmorethanmanfromman,Andwhencethatdifference?Whencebutfromhimself?

  ForseetheuniversalRaceendowedWiththesameuprightform。ThesunisfixedAndtheinfinitemagnificenceofheavenFixed,withinreachofeveryhumaneye;

  Thesleeplessoceanmurmursforallyears;

  ThevernalfieldinfusesfreshdelightIntoallhearts。Throughouttheworldofsense,Evenasanobjectissublimeorfair,ThatobjectislaidopentotheviewWithoutreserveorveil;andasapowerIssalutary,oraninfluencesweet,AreeachandallenabledtoperceiveThatpower,thatinfluence,byimpartiallaw,Giftsnoblerarevouchsafedaliketoall;

  Reason,and,withthatreason,smilesandtears;

  Imagination,freedominthewill;

  Consciencetoguideandcheck;anddeathtobeForetasted,immortalityconceivedByall——ablissfulimmortality,TothemwhoseholinessonearthshallmakeTheSpiritcapableofheaven,assured……ThesmokeascendsToHeavenaslightlyfromthecottagehearthAsfromthehaughtiestpalace。HewhosesoulPondersthistrueequality,maywalkThefieldsofearthwithgratitudeandhope;

  Yet,inthatmeditation,willhefindMotivetosaddergrief,aswehavefound;

  Lamentingancientvirtuesoverthrown,Andfortheinjusticegrieving,thathathmadeSowideadifferencebetweenmanandman。\"

  Chapter13。Dinners,Banquets,Etc。

  Dinner,asweallknow,indicatesacertainhourandacertainhabitwhoseaimisthenourishmentofthebody,andadeliverancefromhunger;

  butinourmoderncivilizedlifeitpossessesotherpurposesalso。

  Manisagregariousanimal,andwhenhetakeshisfoodhelikescompany;

  fromthispeculiaritytherehassprungupthecustomofdinnerparties。

  Inattendingdinnerparties,however,theguestsasaruledonotseeksustenance,theyonlygotothemwhentheyhavenothingelsetodo,andmanyscarcelytouchthefoodthatislaidbeforethem。

  Theirobjectistodohonortothehostandhostess,nottoeat,buttobeentertainedbypleasantandcongenialconversation。

  Nevertheless,thehost,atwhoseinvitationthecompanyhasassembled,isexpectedtoprovideagreatabundanceandalargevarietyofsavorydishes,aswellasagoodsupplyofchoicewines。Fleshandwineareindispensable,eventhoughtheentertainerseschewbothintheirprivatelife,andmostoftheguestsdailyconsumetoomuchofeach。

  Fewhavethecouragetopartwithconventionalpracticeswhenarrangingasocialfunction。

  Americanchefsareexcellentcaterers,andwellknowhowtopleasethetastesoftheAmericanpeople。Theyconcentrateontheartofprovidingdaintydishes,andhumaningenuityisheavilytaxedbythemintheireffortstoinventnewgustatorydelicacies。

  Thedisheswhichtheyplacebeforeeachguestaresonumerousthatevenagourmandmustleavesomeuntouched。Atafashionabledinnernoonecanpossiblytaste,muchlesseat,everythingthatisplacedbeforehim,yetthefoodisallsonicelycookedandservedinsoappetizingamanner,thatitisdifficulttoresistthetemptationatleasttosampleit;

  whenyouhavedonethis,however,youwillcontinueeatinguntilallhasbeenfinished,butyourstomachwillprobablybeasadsufferer,groaninggrievouslyonthefollowingdayonaccountofthefrolicofyourpalate。Thisill-matedpair,althoughbotharechieflyinterestedinfood,seldomseemtoagree。ImustnotomittomentionhoweverthatthenumberofcoursesservedatanAmericanmillionaire\'sdinnerisafteralllessnumerousthanthosefurnishedataChinesefeast。

  WhenaChinesegentlemanaskshisfriendstodinewithhimthemenumayincludeanywherefromthirtytofiftyorahundredcourses;

  butmanyofthedishesareonlyintendedforshow。Theguestsarenotexpectedtoeateverythingonthetable,oreventotasteeverydelicacy,unless,indeed,theyspeciallydesiretodoso。Again,wedon\'teatsoheartilyasdotheAmericans,butcontentourselveswithoneortwomouthfulsfromeachsetofdishes,andallowappreciableintervalstoelapsebetweencourses,duringwhichwemakemerry,smoke,andotherwiseenjoythecompany。

  ThisisadistinctadvantageinfavorofChina。

  InEuropeandAmerica,dessertformsthelastcourseatdinner;

  inChinathisisservedfirst。Idonotknowwhichisthebetterway。

  Chineseareeverreadytoacceptthebestfromeveryquarter,andsomanyofushaverecentlyadoptedtheWesternpracticeregardingdessert,whilestillretainingtheancientChinesecustom,sothatnowweeatsweetmeatsandfruitatthebeginning,duringdinner,andattheend。ThishappycombinationofEasternandWesternpracticesis,Isubmit,worthyofexpansionandextension。Ifitweretobecomeuniversalitwouldhelptodiscouragethepresentunwholesomehabit,foritisnothingmorethanahabit,ofdevouringflesh。

  OneofthedishesindispensableatafashionableAmericandinneristheterrapin。Thosewhoeatthesethingssaythattheirfleshhasamostagreeableanddelicateflavor,andthattheirgelatinousskinnynecksandfinsaredelicious,butapparentlythemostpalatabletidbitspallthetasteintime,foritissaidthataboutfortyyearsagoterrapinsweresoabundantandcheapthatworkmenintheiragreementwiththeiremployersstipulatedthatterrapinshouldnotbesuppliedattheirdinnertablemorethanthreetimesaweek。Sincethenterrapinshavebecomesorarethatnostylishdinnerevertakesplacewithoutthisdish。

  OystersareanotherWesternsinequanon,andarealwaysservedraw。

  Iwonderhowmanyladiesandgentlemenwhoswallowthesemolluscawithsuchevidentrelishknowthattheyareveritablescavengers,whichpickupandswalloweverydirtythinginthewater。

  Afriendofmineaftertakingafewofthemononeoccasion,hadtoleavethetableandgohome;hewasillafterwardforseveraldays。

  Onecannotbetoocarefulastowhatoneeats。TheUnitedStateshasaPureFoodDepartment,butIthinkitmightlearnagreatdealthatitdoesnotknowifitweretosendacommissiontoChinatostudylifeintheBuddhistmonasteries,whereonlysanitary,healthfulfoodisconsumed。Itisalwaysasurprisetomethatpeoplearesoindifferenttothekindoffoodtheytake。Publichealthofficersareusefulofficials,butwhenwehavebecomemorecivilizedeachindividualwillbehisownhealthofficer。

  Someofthewell-knownChinesedishesareveryrelishableandshouldnotbeoverlookedbychefsanddinnerhostesses。

  Irefertothesharks\'fins,andbirds\'nest——theEasterncounterpartoftheWesternpiecederesistance——theterrapin。

  Fromahygienicpointofviewsharks\'finsmaynotbeconsideredasverydesirable,seeingtheyarepartoftheshark,buttheyarecertainlynotworse,andareperhapsbetter,thanwhatiscalledthe\"highandtender\"pheasant,andotherfleshfoodswhichareconstantlyfoundonWesterndiningtables,andwhicharesoreadilyeatenbyconnoisseurs。Birds\'nestsoupisfarsuperiortoturtlesoup,andIhavetheopinionofanAmericanchemistwhoanalyzedit,thatitisinnocuousandminustheinjuriousuricacidgeneratedbyanimalflesh,thecauseofrheumaticandsimilarpainfulcomplaints。

  The\"chopsuey\"suppliedintheChineserestaurantsinNewYork,Chicago,andotherplaces,seemstobeafavoritedishwiththeAmericanpublic。

  Itshowsthesimilarityofourtastes,andencouragesmetoexpectthatsomeofmyrecommendationswillbeaccepted。

  WillsomeoneinformmewhysomanyvarietiesofwinesarealwaysservedonAmericantables,andwhythesparklingchampagneisneveravoidable?

  Wealthyfamilieswillspareneitherpainsnorexpensetospreadmostsumptuousdinners,andithasbeenreportedthatthecostofanentertainmentgivenbyonerichladyamountedtotwentythousandpoundssterling,although,asIhavesaid,eatingisthelastthingforwhichtheguestsassemble。

  Idonotsupposethatmanywillagreewithme,butinmyopinionitwouldbemuchmoreagreeable,andimprovethegeneralconversation,ifalldrinksofanintoxicatingnaturewereabolishedfromthediningtable。

  Itisgratifyingtoknowthattherearesomefamiliesmaythenumberincreaseeveryday!whereintoxicatingliquorsareneverseenontheirtables。

  Thefirstinstanceofthissortthatcameundermynoticewasinthehomeofthatexcellentwoman,Mrs。M。F。Henderson,whoisanardentadvocateofdietreformandteetotalism。Mr。WilliamJenningsBryan,theSecretaryofState,hassetanobleexample,asfromnewspaperreportsitappearsthathegaveafarewelldinnertoAmbassadorBryce,withoutchampagneorotheralcoholicdrinks。HehasaloyalsupporterinShanghai,inthepersonoftheAmericanConsul-General,Dr。A。P。Wilder,who,tothegreatregretofeverybodywhoknowshiminthisport,isretiringfromtheserviceonaccountofill-health。Dr。Wilderisverypopularandfigureslargelyinthesociallifeofthecommunity,butDr。Wilderisastaunchopponentofalcohol,andthroughhisinfluencewinesatpublicdinnersarealwaystreatedasextras。

  SolongastheliquortrafficissoextensivelyandprofitablycarriedoninEuropeandAmerica,andsolongastheconsumptionofalcoholissoenormous,solongwilltherebeadifferenceofopinionastoitsilleffects,butinthismatter,bymeansofitsStateProhibitionLaws,Americaissettinganexampletotheworld。Innoothercountryaretheresuchextensivetractswithoutalcoholasthe\"DryStates\"ofAmerica。

  China,whoiswagingwaronopium,recognizesinthisfactakindred,activemoralforcewhichisabsentelsewhere,and,shakinghandswithhersisterrepublicacrosstheseas,hopesthatshewillsomedaybeasfreeofalcoholicpoisonsasChinaherselfhopestobeofopium。Everyvice,however,hasitsdefense。

  SomeyearsagoImetafamousDutchartistinPeking,who,thoughstillintheprimeoflife,wasobligedtolayasidehisworkforafewdayseachmonth,duetoanoccasionalattackofrheumatism。

  Ifoundhewasfondofhiscup,thoughIdidnotunderstandthathewasanimmoderatedrinker。Idiscoursedtohimsomewhatlengthilyabouttheevileffectsofdrink,andshowedhimthatunlesshewaswillingtogiveupallintoxicatingliquor,hisrheumatismwouldnevergivehimup。

  Helistenedattentively,ponderedforafewminutes,andthengavethischaracteristicanswer:\"IadmitthesoundnessofyourargumentbutIenjoymyglassexceedingly;ifIweretofollowyouradviceIshouldbedeprivedofalotofpleasure。Indeed,Iwouldratherhavetherheumaticpains,whichdisappearaftertwoorthreedays,andcontinuetoenjoymyalcoholicdrinks,thanendurethemiseryofdoingwithoutthem。\"Iwarnedhimthatincourseoftimehisrheumatismwouldbelongerindurationandattackhimmorefrequently,ifhecontinuedtoignoreitswarningsandtoplaywithwhat,forhim,wascertainlypoison。Whenanyonehasahabit,beitinjuriousorotherwise,itisnoteasytopersuadehimtoabandonit。

  \"TheAristocracyofHealth\"writtenbythetalentedMrs。Hendersonisanadmirablework。Iowemuchtoit。Thefactsandargumentsadducedagainsttobaccosmoking,strongdrinkandpoisonousfoods,aresetforthinsuchaclearandconvincingmanner,thatsoonafterreadingitIbecameateetotalerand\"sanitarian\"*

  andbeganatoncetoreapthebenefits。IfeltthatIoughtnottokeepsuchagoodthingtomyself,butthatIshouldpreachthedoctrinefarandwide。Isoonfound,however,thatitwasanimpossibletasktotrytosavemenfromthemselves,andIacquiredtheunenviablesobriquetof\"crank\";butIwasnotdismayed。FrommynativefriendsIturnedtotheforeigncommunityinPeking,thinkingthatthelatterwouldpossessbetterjudgment,appreciateandbeconvertedtothesanitariandoctrine。AmongtheforeignersIappealedto,onewasadistinguisheddiplomat,andtheotheragentlemanintheChineseservice,withaworld-widereputation。

  Bothwereelderlyandindelicatehealth,anditwasmyearnesthopethatbyreadingMrs。Henderson\'sbook,whichwassenttothem,theywouldbeconvincedoftheirerrorsandturnoveranewleaf——

  Iwasdisappointed。Both,inreturningthebook,madesubstantiallythesameanswer。\"Mrs。Henderson\'sworkisveryinteresting,butatmytimeoflifeitisnotadvisabletochangelife-longhabits。

  Ieatfleshmoderately,andneverdrinkmuchwine。\"Theybothseemedtooverlookthecrucialproblemastowhetherornotanimalfoodcontainshurtfulpoison。Ifitdoes,itshouldnotbeeatenatall。

  Weneverhearofsensiblepeopletakingarsenic,strychnine,orotherpoisons,inmoderation,butmanyfoolishwomen,Ibelieve,takearsenictopaletheircomplexions,whileothers,bothmenandwomen,takestrychnineincombinationwithotherdrugs,asatonic,butwillanyonearguethatthesesubstancesarefoods?

  Theruleofmoderationisapplicabletothingswhicharenutritious,oratleastharmless,butnottonoxiousfoods,howeversmallthequantityofpoisontheymaycontain。

  Ihaveneverbeenasmokerandhavealwayseschewedtobacco,cigarettes,etc。;thoughforashortwhiletoobligefriendsIoccasionallyacceptedacigarette,nowIfirmlyrefuseeverythingofthesort——

  Pleasantconversationatthedinnertableisalwaysenjoyable,andagoodtalkerisalwayswelcome,butIoftenwonderwhyAmericans,whogenerallyaresoquicktoimproveopportunity,andarenotedfortheirfreedomfromtraditionalconventionalisms,donotmakeamoresystematicuseofthegeneralloveofgoodconversation。

  Anyonewhoisawittyconversationalist,withalargefundofanecdote,issuretobeaskedbyeverydinnerhosttohelptoentertaintheguests,butifthecompanybelargethefavoritecanbeenjoyedbyonlyafew,andthosewhoaretoofarawaytohear,orwhoarejustnearenoughtohearapartbutnotall,arelikelytofeelaggrieved。

  Theycannothearwhatisamusingtherest,whilethetalkelsewherepreventstheirtalkingastheywouldiftherewerenointerruptions。

  Araconteurgenerallymonopolizeshalfthecompany,andleavestheotherhalfoutinthecold。Thismightbeavoidediftalkerswereengagedtoentertainthewholecompanyduringdinner,aspianistsarenowsometimesengagedtoplaytothemafterdinner。

  Or,theentertainmentmightbevariedbyengagingagoodprofessionalrecitertoreproduceliterarygems,comicorotherwise。Iamsuretheresultwouldbringmoregeneralsatisfactiontothegueststhanthepresentmethodofleavingthemtoentertainthemselves。

  Chineseemploysinginggirls;Japanese,geishastotalk,singordance。

  TheidealwouldhereagainseemtobeanamalgamationofEastandWest。

  Itisdifficultforamixedcrowdtobealwaysagreeable,eveninthecongenialatmosphereofagoodfeast,unlesstheguestshavebeenselectedwithaviewtotheiropinionsratherthantotheirsocialstanding。Placeanumberofpeoplewhoseideasarecommon,withadifference,aroundawell-spreadtableandtherewillbenolackofgood,earnest,instructiveconversation。Mostmenandwomencantalkwelliftheyhavetherightsortoflisteners。

  Ifthehearerisunsympatheticthebesttalkerbecomesdumb。

  Hostswhorememberthiswillalwaysbeappreciated。

  Asarule,adinnerconversationisseldomworthremembering,whichisapity。Man,themostsensibleofallanimals,cantalknonsensebetterthanalltherestofhistribe。PerhapstheflowofwordsmaybeassteadyastheeastwardflowoftheYang-tse-Kianginmyowncountry,butthememoryonlyretainsarecollectionofavague,undefined——what?

  Theconversationliketheflavorsprovidedbythecookshasbeenevanescent。

  Whyshouldnothostessesmakeasmuchefforttostimulatethemindsoftheirguestsastheydotogratifytheirpalates?

  Whataboonitwouldbetomanyabashfulman,sittingnexttoaladywithwhomhehasnothingincommon,ifsomepublicentertainerduringthedinnerrelievedhimfromthenecessityofalwaysthinkingofwhatheshouldsaynext?Howmuchmorehecouldenjoythetastydisheshishostesshadprovided;andasforthelady——

  whatanumberofsuppressedyawnsshemighthaveavoided。

  Totakegreatpainsandspendlargesumstoprovidenicefoodforpeoplewhocannotenjoyitbecausetheyhavetotalktooneanother,seemsapity。Letonemantalktotherestandleavethemleisuretoeat,ismysuggestion。

  Theopportunitiesaffordedatthediningtablemaybeturnedtomanyusefulpurposes。Ofcoursenotallareill-paired,andmanyyoungmenandladiesmeet,sitsidebyside,engageinafriendly,pleasantconversation,renewtheiracquaintanceatothertimes,andfinallymergetheirseparatepathsinthehighwayofmarriage。

  PerhapsChinamightborrowaleaffromthiscustomandsubstitutedinnerpartiesforgo-betweens。Thedinner-partymethod,however,hasitsdangersaswellasitsadvantages——itdependsonthepointofview。

  Personalpeculiaritiesanddefects,ifany,canbeeasilydetectedbythewayinwhichtheconversationiscarriedon,andthemannerinwhichthefoodishandled。Ithassometimeshappenedthattheaffiancedhavecancelledtheirengagementafteradinnerparty。Ontheotherhand,mattersofgreatimportcanoftenbearrangedatthedinnertablebetterthananywhereelse。Commercialtransactionsinvolvingmillionsofdollarshavefrequentlybeensettledwhilethepartiesweresippingchampagne;

  eveninternationalproblems,endinginelaboratenegotiationsandtreaties,havebeenfirstdiscussedwiththeafterdinnercigar。

  Theatmosphereofgoodfriendshipandequality,engenderedbyawell-furnishedroom,goodcheer,pleasantcompany,andagenialhostess,disarmsprejudice,removesbarriers,meltsreserve,anddisposesonetoseethatthereisanothersidetoeveryquestion。

  InChinawhenpeoplehavequarreledtheirfriendsgenerallyinvitethemtodinner,wherethemattersindisputeareamicablyarranged。

  Thesearecalled\"peacedinners\"。IwouldrecommendthatasimilarexpedientshouldbeadoptedinAmerica;manyaknottypointcouldbedisposedofbyafriendlydiscussionatthedinnertable。

  Ifinternationaldisputeswerealwaysarrangedinthiswaytherepresentativesofnationshavingcomplaintsagainsteachothermightmoreoftenthannowdiscoverunexpectedwaysofadjustingtheirdifferences。Whyshouldsuchmattersinvariablyberemandedtoformalconferencesandsetspeeches?Thepreliminaries,atleast,wouldprobablybebetterarrangedatdinnerpartiesandsocialfunctions。

  Eatinghasalwaysbeenassociatedwithfriendship。\"Toeatsalt\"withanArabformsamostbindingcontract。Even\"theserpent\"inthebookofGenesiscommencedhisacquaintancewithEvebysuggestingameal。

  ItalmostseemsasiftherewerecertainunwrittenlawsinAmericansociety,assigningcertainfunctionstocertaindaysintheweek。

  IdonotbelieveAmericansaresuperstitious,butIfoundthatThursdaywasgreatlyinfavor。IrememberononeoccasionthatMrs。Grant,widowofthelatePresident,sentaninvitationtomywifeandmyselftodineatherhousesomeThursdayevening;thiswasthreeweeksinadvance,andwereadilyacceptedherinvitation。Afterouracceptance,aboutadozeninvitationscameforthatsameThursday,allofwhichwehad,ofcourse,todecline。Curiouslyenoughwereceivednoinvitationsforanyotherdayduringthatweek,andjustbeforethateventfulThursdaywereceivedaletterfromMrs。Grantcancellingtheinvitationonaccountofthedeathofoneofherrelations,sothatwehadtodineathomeafterall。

  NowweChinesemakenosuchdistinctionsbetweendays。

  Everydayoftheweekisequallygood;inorderhowevertoavoidclashingwithotherpeoples\'engagements,wegenerallyfixFridaysforourreceptionsordinners,butthereisnotamongtheChineseanentertainmentseasonasthereisinWashington,andothergreatcities,wheneverybodyingoodsocietyisbusyattendingorgiving\"AtHomes\",teapartiesordinners。Ifrequentlyattended\"AtHomes\"orteapartiesinhalf-a-dozenplacesormoreinoneafternoon,butnoonecandineduringthesameeveninginmorethanoneplace。

  InthisrespectAmericamightlearnalessonfromChina。Wecanaccepthalf-a-dozeninvitationstodinnerforoneevening;allwehavetodoistogotoeachplaceinturn,partakeofoneortwodishes,excuseourselvestothehostandthengosomewhereelse。

  Bythismeansweavoidtheseemingrudenessofadeclination,andescapetheillfeelingswhicharefrequentlycreatedintheWestbyinvitationsbeingrefused。TheChinesemethodmakespossiblethecultivationofdemocraticfriendshipswithoutviolatingaristocraticinstincts,andforcandidatesatelectiontimesitwouldproveanagreeablemethodbywhichtomakenewfriends。

  WearelessrigidthanAmericansaboutdroppinginandtakingamouthfulortwoatdinner,evenwithoutaspecialinvitation。*——

  *Sincewritingtheabove,IhaveheardfromanAmericanladythat\"progressivedinners\"haverecentlybeenintroducedbytheidleandrichsetofyoungpeopleinNewYork。

  Themodusoperandiisthatseveraldinnerswill,byarrangement,begivenonacertainday,andtheguestswillgotoeachhousealternately,eatingoneortwodishesonlyandremainingatthelasthouseforfruit。

  Icanhardlybelievethis,butmyfriendassuresmeitisafact。

  Itseemsthateatingisturnedintoplay,andtoappreciatethefun,Iwouldliketobeoneoftheactors——

  Washingtonofficialsanddiplomatsusuallygivelargeentertainments。

  Thearrangingoftheseatsatthedinnertableisadelicatematter,astheruleofprecedencehastobeobserved,andinattentiontotherule,byplacingawrongseatforagentlemanorladywhoisentitledtoahigherplace,maybeconsideredasaslight。Itisatsuchfunctionsasthesethattheprofessionalstory-teller,thegoodreciter,thecleverreader,theperfectentertainerwouldmakethenaturalselfishreserveofmankindlessapparent。

  Fashionablepeople,whoentertainagooddeal,are,Iunderstand,oftenpuzzledtoknowhowtoprovidenovelties。InadditiontothesuggestionsIhavemade,mayIbepardonedanother?

  TherearemanygoodcooksintheU。S。A。WhynotcommissionthesetosometimespreparearechercheChinesedinner,withthefoodservedinbowlsinsteadofplates,andwithchop-sticks\"nimblelads\"wecallthem

  forshow,butforksandspoonsforuse。IseenoreasonwhyChinesemealsshouldnotbecomefashionableinAmerica,asWesternpreparationsarefrequentlyfavoredbytheEliteinChina。OnemarkeddifferencebetweenthetwostylesisthemannerinwhichtheChinesepurveyorthrowshismostdelicateflavorsintostrongreliefbyprefacingitwithadietwhichisinsipid,harshorpungent。Contrastsaddzesttoeverythinghuman,beitdining,working,playing,orwooing。

  Thissuggestsanoccasional,toothsomevegetarianrepastasaset-offtothesameroundoffish,flesh,fowlandwinefumes。

  NopeopleintheworldcanpreparesuchdeliciousvegetarianbanquetsasaChineseculinaryartist。

  AbanquetisamoreformalaffairthanthedinnerpartiesIhavebeendiscussing。Itisgenerallygottenuptocelebratesomespecialevent,suchastheconclusionofsomeimportantbusiness,orthebirthdayofsomenationalherolikeWashington,Lincoln,orGrant;

  ortheChambersofCommerceandAssociationsofdifferenttradesintheimportantcitiesofAmericawillholdtheirannualmeetingstohearareportanddiscussthebusinessestransactedduringtheyear,windingupbyholdingalargebanquet。

  Thefoodsuppliedontheseoccasionsisbynomeanssuperiortothatgivenatprivatedinners,yeteverybodyisgladtobeinvited。

  Itistheinevitablerulethatspeechesfollowtheeating,andpeopleattend,notforthesakeofthefood,butfortheprivilegeofhearingotherstalk。

  Indeed,exceptfortheopportunityoftalking,orhearingotherstalk,peoplewouldprobablypreferaquietmealathome。

  Speakerswithareputation,orators,statesmen,orforeigndiplomatsarefrequentlyinvited,andsometimeseminentmenfromothercountriesaretheguestsofhonor。Thesefunctionsoccureveryyear,andtheForeignMinisterswithwhosecountriestheAssociationshavecommercialrelationsaregenerallypresent。

  Thetopicsdiscussedarenearlyalwaysthesame,anditisnoteasytospeakatoneofthesegatheringswithoutgoingoverthesamegroundasthatcoveredonpreviousoccasions。Irememberthatacolleagueofminewhowasacleverdiplomat,andforwhomIhadgreatrespect,oncewhenaskedtomakeanafter-dinnerspeech,reluctantlyroseand,asfarasIcanremember,spoketothefollowingeffect:

  \"Mr。Chairmanandgentlemen,IthankyourAssociationforinvitingmetothissplendidbanquet,butasIhadthehonorofspeakingatyourbanquetlastyearIhavenothingmoretoadd,andIreferyoutothatspeech;\"

  hethensatdown。Thenoveltyofhisremarks,ofcourse,wonhimapplause,butIshouldliketoknowwhatthecompanyreallythoughtofhim。

  Formypart,Ipraisedhiswisdom,forhediplomaticallyrebukedallwhoseonlyinterestisthatwhichhasitsbirthwiththedayanddisappearswiththenight。

  BanquetsanddinnersinAmerica,asinChina,are,however,oftenfarremovedfromfrivolities。Statesmensometimesselecttheseopportunitiesforapronouncementoftheirpolicy,eventhePresidentofthenationmayoccasionallythinkitadvisabletodothis。Speechesdeliveredonsuchoccasionsaregenerallyreportedinallthenewspapers,and,ofcourse,discussedbyallsortsofpeople,thewiseandtheotherwise,sothatthespeakerhastobeverycarefulastowhathesays。OurPresidentconfineshimselftothemoreformalprocedureofissuinganofficialmandate,thesameinkind,thoughdifferinginexpression,asanAmericanPresident\'sInauguralAddress,oroneofhisMessagestoCongress。

  CommercialmendonotunderstandandareimpatientwiththerestrictionswhichhedgeroundaForeignMinister,andintheiranxietytogetspeakerstheywilllookanywhere。OnoneoccasionIreceivedaninvitationtogotoCanadatoattendabanquetataCommercialClubinoneoftheprincipalCanadiancities。Itwouldhavegivenmegreatpleasuretobeabletocomplywiththisrequest,asIhadnotthenvisitedthatcountry,but,contrarytoinclination,Ihadtodecline。IwasaccreditedasMinistertoWashington,anddidnotfeelatlibertytovisitanothercountrywithoutthespecialpermissionofmyHomeGovernment。

  Publicspeaking,likeanyotherart,hastobecultivated。

  Howeverscholarlyamanmaybe,andhowevercleverhemaybeinprivateconversation,whencalledupontospeakinpublichemaysometimesmakeaverypoorimpression。Ihaveknownhighlyplacedforeignofficials,withdeservedreputationsforwisdomandability,whowereshockinglypoorspeakersatbanquets。

  Theywouldhesitateandalmoststammer,andwouldprovequiteincapableofexpressingtheirthoughtsinanysensibleorintelligentmanner。

  Inthisrespect,personalobservationshaveconvincedmethatAmericans,asarule,arebetterspeakersthan……Iwillnotmentionthenationalityinmymind,itmightgiveoffense。AnAmerican,who,withoutpreviousnotice,iscalledupontospeak,generallyacquitshimselfcreditably。Heisnearlyalwayswitty,appreciative,andfrank。Thisisdue,Ibelieve,tothethorough-goingnatureofhiseducation:heistaughttobeself-confident,tobelieveinhisownabilitytocreate,toexpresshisopinionswithoutfear。

  Adiffidentandretiringman,whosechiefcharacteristicisextrememodesty,isnotlikelytobeagoodspeaker;butAmericansarefreefromthisweakness。

  Farbeitfrommetosuggestthattherearenogoodspeakersinothercountries。Americacanbynomeansclaimamonopolyoforators;

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