Indeedladies\'dress，insteadofaffordingprotectionsometimesendangerstheirlives。Thefollowingextractfromthe\"LondonTimes\"——
andthefactscannotbedoubted——isawarningtothefairsex。
\"ThestronggalewhichsweptoverBradfordresultedinanextraordinaryaccidentbywhichagirllostherlife。
MaryBailey，aged16，thedaughterofanelectrician，whoisapupilattheHansonSecondarySchool，wasintheschoolyardwhenshewassuddenlyliftedupintotheairbyaviolentgustofwindwhichgotunderherclothesconvertingthemintoasortofparachute。
Afterbeingcarriedtoaheightestimatedbyspectatorsat20feet，sheturnedoverintheairandfelltothegroundstrikingtheconcretedflooroftheyardwithgreatforce。Shewasterriblyinjuredanddiedhalfanhourlater。\"HadthepoorgirlbeenwearingChineseclothingthisterribleoccurrencecouldnothavehappened；herlifewouldnothavebeensacrificedtofashion。
Astothesecondpoint，comfort，Idonotbelievethatthewearerofafashionablecostumeiseithercomfortableorcontented。Iwillsaynothingoftheunnecessarygarmentswhichtheaveragewomanaffects，butletusseewhatcanbesaidforthetightcorsetbindingthewaist。
Sofarfrombeingcomfortableitmustbemostinconvenient，asortofperpetualpenanceanditiscertainlyinjurioustothehealth。
Ifeelconfidentthatphysicianswillsupportmeinmybeliefthatthedeath-rateamongAmericanwomenwouldbelessifcorsetandothertightlacingwereabolished。Ihaveknownofinstanceswheretightlacingfortheballroomhascausedthedeathofenceintewomen。
Astothethirdobject，decency，IamnotconvincedthattheAmericandressfulfilsthisobject。WhenIsayAmericandress，IincludealsotheclothingwornbyEuropeansforbotharepracticallythesame。
Itmaybeamatterofeducation，butfromtheOrientalpointofviewwewouldpreferthatladies\'dressesshouldbewornmoreloosely，sothatthefigureshouldbelessprominent。IamawarethatthisisaviewwhichmyAmericanfriendsdonotshare。Itisverycuriousthatwhatisconsideredasindecentinonecountryisthoughttobequiteproperinanother。DuringthehotsummersintheProvinceofKiangsutheworkingwomenavoidtheinconveniencesandchillsofperspirationbygoingabouttheirworkwithnothingontheupperpartoftheirbodies，exceptachestprotectortocoverthebreasts；inWesterncountrieswomenwouldneverthinkofdoingthis，evenduringaseasonofextremeheat；
yettheydonotobject，eveninthedepthofwinter，touncoveringtheirshouldersaslowaspossiblewhenattendingadinner-party，aball，orthetheater。IrememberthecaseofaChineserice-pounderinHongkongwhowasarrestedandtakentothePoliceCourtonachargeofindecency。
Toenablehimtodohisworkbetterhehaddispensedwithallhisclothingexceptingaloincloth；forthishewassentencedtopayafineof$2，or，indefaultofpaymenttobeimprisonedforaweek。
TheEnglishMagistrate，inimposingthefine，lecturedhimseverely，remarkingthatinacivilizedcommunitysuchprimitivemannerscouldnotbetolerated，astheywerebothbarbarousandindecent。
Whenhesaidthisdidhethinkofthewaythewomenofhiscountrydresswhentheygotoaball？
Itmustberememberedthatmodestyiswhollyamatterofconventionalityandcustom。Competentobservershavetestifiedthatsavageswhohavebeenaccustomedtonudityalltheirlivesarecoveredwithshamewhenmadetoputonclothingforthefirsttime。
Theyexhibitasmuchconfusionasacivilizedpersonwouldifcompelledtostripnakedinpublic。Inthewordsofacompetentauthorityonthissubject:\"Thefactsappeartoprovethatthefeelingofshame，farfrombeingthecauseofman\'scoveringhisbodyis，onthecontrary，aresultofthiscustom；andthatthecovering，ifnotusedasaprotectionfromtheclimate，owesitsorigin，atleastinmanycases，tothedesireofmenandwomentomakethemselvesattractive。\"
Strangeasitmayseem，itisneverthelesstrue，thatafigurepartiallycladappearsmoreindecentthanonethatisperfectlynude。
Thefourthobjectofclothesisornament，butornamentsshouldbeharmless，notonlytothewearer，butalsotootherpeople；yetfromthefollowingparagraph，copiedfromoneofthedailynewspapers，itdoesnotappearthattheyare。
\"London，May7。Thedeathofagirlfromblood-poisoningcausedbyahatpinpenetratinghernosewasinquiredintoatStockport，Cheshire，yesterday。
ThedeceasedwasMaryElizabethThornton，agedtwenty-four，daughterofaStockporttradesman。ThefathersaidthatonSaturdayevening，April20，hisdaughterwasspeakingtoafriend，Mrs。Pickford，outsidetheshop。
OnthefollowingMondayshecomplainedofhernosebeingsore。
Nextdaysheagaincomplainedandsaid，\"Itmustbethehatpin。\"
WhiletalkingtoMrs。Pickford，sheexplained，Mrs。Pickford\'sbabystumbledonthefootpath。Theybothstoopedtopickitup，andahatpininMrs。Pickford\'shatcaughtherinthenostril。
HisdaughtergraduallygotworseanddiedonSaturdaylast。Mrs。Pickford，wifeofapapermerchant，saidthatsomeminutesafterthedeceasedhadpickedupthechildshesaid，\"Doyouknow，Iscratchedmynoseonyourhatpin？\"Mrs。Pickfordwaswearingthehatpinincourt。
Itprojectedtwoinchesfromthehatandwasabouttwelveinchesinlength。
Dr。HowieSmithsaidthatsepticinflammationwassetupasaresultofthewound，andtravellingtothebraincausedmeningitis。
Thecoronersaidthatnotmanycasescamebeforecoronersinwhichdeathwasdirectlytraceabletothehatpinbuttheremustbeaverylargenumberofcasesinwhichthehatpincausedinjury，insomecaseslossofsight。Itwasnouncommonsighttoseethesedeadlyweaponsprotrudingthreeorfourinchesfromthehat。
InHamburgwomenwerecompelledbystatutetoputshieldsorprotectorsonthepointsofhatpins。InEnglandnothinghadbeendone，butthiscaseshowedthatitwashightimesomethingwasdone。
Ifwomeninsistedonwearinghatpinstheyshouldtakeprecautionofwearingalsoashieldorprotectorwhichwouldpreventtheminflictinginjuryonotherpeople。Thejuryreturnedaverdictofaccidentaldeath，andexpressedtheiropinionthatlonghatpinsoughttobedoneawaywithortheirpointsprotected。\"
Towearjewels，necklacesofbrilliants，preciousstonesandpearls，orribbonswithbrilliantsroundthehairisapleasingcustomandaprettysight。Buttoseealadywearingalonggowntrailingonthegrounddoesnotimpressmeasbeingelegant，thoughIunderstandtheladiesinEuropeandAmericathinkotherwise。Itwouldalmostseemasiftheirconceptionsofbeautydependedonthelengthoftheirskirts。
Inaballroomonesometimesfindsitverydifficultnottotreadontheladies\'skirts，andonceremonialoccasionseachladyhastwopageboystoholdupthetrainofherdress。ItisimpossibletoteachanOrientaltoappreciatethissortofthing。Certainlyskirtswhicharenotmadeeitherforutilityorcomfort，andwhichfashionchanges，addnothingtothewearer\'sbeauty；especiallydoesthisremarkapplytothe\"hobbleskirt\"，withitsimpedimenttofreemovementofthelegs。
Theungainly\"hobbleskirt\"compelsthewearertowalkcarefullyandwithshortsteps，andwhenshedancesshehastoliftupherdress。
Nowthelatestfashionseemstobethe\"slashedskirt\"which，however，hastheadvantageofkeepingthelowerhemoftheskirtclean。
Doubtlessthis，inturn，willgiveplacetoothernovelties。
AChineselady，DoctorYaMei-kin，whohasbeeneducatedinAmerica，adoptedwhiletheretheAmericanattire，butassoonasshereturnedtoChinasheresumedherownnativedress。Letushearwhatshehastosayonthissubject。SpeakingofWesterncivilizationshesaid:
\"Ifwekeepourownmodeoflifeitisnotforthesakeofblindconservatism。
WearemorelogicalinourwaysthantheaverageEuropeanimagines。
Iwearforinstancethis`ao\'dressasyousee，cutinonepieceandallowingthelimbsfreeplay——becauseitismanifestlyamorerationalandcomfortableattirethanyourfashionableskirtfromParis。
OntheotherhandwearereadytoassimilatesuchnotionsfromtheWestaswillreallyprovebeneficialtous。\"Beautyisamatterofeducation:
whenyouhavebecomeaccustomedtoanything，howeverquaintorqueer，youwillnotthinkitsoafterawhile。WhenIfirstwentabroadandsawyounggirlsgoingaboutinthestreetswiththeirhairfallinglooseovertheirshoulders，Iwasalittleshocked。Ithoughthowcarelesstheirparentsmustbetoallowtheirgirlstogooutinthatuntidystate。
Later，findingthatitwasthefashion，Ichangedmymind，untilbydegreesIcametothinkthatitlookedquitenice；
thusdoconventionalityandcustomchangeone\'sopinions。
Butitshouldberememberedthatnocustomorconventionalitywhichsanctionsthedistortingofnature，orwhichinterfereswiththefreeexerciseofanymemberofthebody，caneverbecalledbeautiful。
IthasalwaysbeenagreatwondertomethatAmericanandEuropeanladieswhoarebynomeansslowtohelpforwardanymovementforreform，havetakennoactivestepstoimprovetheuncouthandinjuriousstyleoftheirownclothes。Howcantheyexpecttobegrantedtheprivilegesofmenuntiltheyshowtheirsuperioritybyfreeingthemselvesfromtheenthrallmentoftheconventionalitiesoffashion？
Men\'sdressisbynomeanssuperiortothewomen\'s。Itissotightthatitcausesthewearertosufferfromtheheatmuchmorethanisnecessary，andIamcertainthatmanycasesofsunstrokehavebeenchieflyduetotightclothing。ImustadmirethecourageofDr。MaryWalker，anAmericanlady，whohasadoptedman\'scostume，butIwonderthat，withhersingularindependenceandingenuityshehasnotintroducedabetterformofdress，insteadofslavishlyadoptingthegarbofthemen。
Ispeakfromexperience。WhenIwasalawstudentinEngland，indeferencetotheopinionofmyEnglishfriends，IdiscardedChineseclothesinfavoroftheEuropeandress，butIsoonfounditveryuncomfortable。
Inthewinteritwasnotwarmenough，butinsummeritwastoowarmbecauseitwassotight。ThenIhadtroublewiththeshoes。
Theygavemethemostdistressingcorns。When，onreturningtoChina，Iresumedmyownnationalcostumemycornsdisappeared，andIhadnomorecolds。IdonotcontendthattheChinesedressisperfect，butIhavenohesitationinaffirmingthatitismorecomfortableand，accordingtomyviews，verymuchprettierthantheAmericanfashions。
ItissuperiortoanyotherkindofdressthatIhaveknown。
Toappreciatethebenefitstobederivedfromcomfortableclothing，youhavetowearitforawhile。Dressshouldnotrestrainthefreemovementofeverypartofthebody，neithershoulditbesotightastohinderinanywaythefreecirculationoftheblood，ortointerferewiththeprocessofevaporationthroughtheskin。
IcannotunderstandwhyAmericans，whoarecorrectandcautiousaboutmostthings，aresoverycarelessoftheirownpersonalcomfortinthematterofclothing。Isanythingmoreimportantthanthatwhichconcernstheirhealthandcomfort？Whyshouldtheycontinuewearingclotheswhichretardtheirmovements，andwhicharesoinconvenientthattheyexposethewearerstoconstantriskanddanger？
Howcantheyconsistentlycallthemselvesindependentwhiletheyservilelyfollowthemandatesofthedressmakerswhoperiodicallymakemoneybyinventingnewfashionsnecessitatingnewclothes？BraveAmericans，wakeup!Assertyourfreedom!
Itwouldbeverybold，andindeedimpertinent，onmyparttosuggesttomyAmericanfriendsthattheyshouldadopttheChinesecostume。
Ithasmuchtorecommendit，butImustcandidlyconfessthatitmightbeimproved。Whynotconveneaninternationalcongresstodecideastothebestformofdressformenandwomen？
Maleandfemaledelegatesfromallovertheworldmightbeinvited，andsamplesofallkindsofcostumesexhibited。Outofthemallletthosewhichareconsideredthebestformenandmostsuitableforwomenberecommended，withsuchimprovementsasthecongressmaydeemnecessary。
Theadvantagesofauniversaluniformityofcostumeswouldbefar-reaching。
Therewouldbenofurtheroccasionforanyonetolookaskanceatanother，ashasfrequentlyhappenedwhensomestrangerhasbeenseenwearingwhatwasconsideredanuncomelyorunsuitablegarb；
universaluniformityofcostumewouldalsotendtodrawpeopleclosertogether，andtomakethemmorefriendly。Uniformsandbadgespromotebrotherhood。IhaveenoughfaithintheAmericanpeopletobelievethatmyhumblesuggestionwillreceivetheirfavorableconsiderationandthatinduetimeitwillbecarriedintoeffect。
Chapter11。AmericanversusChineseCivilizationThisisabigsubject。Itsexhaustivetreatmentwouldrequirealargevolume。
InalittlechaptersuchasthisIhavenointentionofdoingmorethantocastaglanceatitscuffbuttonsandsomeofthefrillsonitsshirt。
Thosewhowantathesismustlookelsewhere。
NowwhatisCivilization？AccordingtoWebsteritis\"theactofcivilizingorthestateofbeingcivilized；nationalculture；refinement。\"
\"Civilizationbeganwiththedomesticationofanimals，\"
saysAlfredRussellWallace，butwhetherfortheanimalthatwasdomesticatedorforthemandomesticatingitisnotclear。Inawaytheremarkprobablyappliestoboth，forthecommencementofculture，orthebeginningofcivilization，wasourreclamationfromasavagestate。
Burkesays:\"Ourmanners，ourcivilization，andallthegoodthingsconnectedwithmannersandcivilizationhaveinthisEuropeanworldofoursdependedforagesupontwoprinciples——thespiritofagentleman，andthespiritofreligion。\"Weoftenhearpeople，especiallyWesterners，callingthemselves\"highlycivilized\"，andtosomeextenttheyhavegoodgroundsfortheirclaim，butdotheyreallymanifestthequalificationsmentionedbyBurke？Aretheyindeedso\"highlycivilized\"astobeinallrespectsworthyparagonstotheso-calledsemi-civilizednations？Havenotsomeoftheirpoliciesbeensuchascanbecharacterizedonlyascrookedandselfishactionswhichlesscivilizedpeopleswouldnothavethoughtof？
Ibelievethateverydisinterestedreaderwillbeabletosupplyconfirmatoryillustrationsforhimself，butIwillenforcethepointbygivingafewChineseidealsofatrulycivilizedman:
\"Heguardshisbodyasifholdingjade\"；i。e。，hewillnotcontaminatehimselfwithmentalormoralfilth。
\"Hedoesnotgratifyhisappetite，norinhisdwellingplacedoesheseekease\"；i。e。，heusesthephysicalwithoutbeingsubmergedbyit。
\"Withoutweaponshewillnotattackatiger，norwillhedaretocrossariverwithoutaboat\"；inotherwordshewillneverruinhimselfandhisfamilybypurelyspeculativepractices。
Hewill\"sendcharcoalinasnowstorm，buthewillnotaddflowerstoembroidery\"，meaningthatherenderstimelyassistancewhennecessary，butdoesnotcurryfavorbypresentstothosewhodonotneedthem。
Ourmosthonoredheroesaresaidtohavemadetheirvirtue\"brilliant\"
andoneofthemengravedonhisbath-tubtheaxiom——
\"Ifyoucanrenovateyourselfoneday，dosofromdaytoday。
Lettherebedailyrenovation。\"Ouridealfortheruleristhattheregulationofthestatemustcommencewithhisregulationofhimself。
Itistoooftenforgottenthatcivilization，likereligion，originallycamefromtheEast。LongbeforeEuropeandAmericawerecivilized，yeawhiletheywerestillinastateofbarbarism，therewerenationsintheEast，includingChina，superiortotheminmanners，ineducation，andingovernment；possessedofaliteratureequaltoany，andofartsandsciencestotallyunknownintheWest。
Self-preservationandself-interestmakeallmenrestless，andsoEasternpeoplesgraduallymovedtotheWesttakingtheirknowledgewiththem；Westernpeoplewhocameintoclosecontactwiththemlearnedtheircivilization。ThisfusionofEastandWestwasthebeginningofWesterncivilization。
AChineseproverbcomparesapupilwhoexcelshisteachertothecolorgreen，whichoriginateswithbluebutissuperiortoit。ThismayaptlybeappliedtoWesterners，fortheyoriginallylearnedliterature，science，andotherartsfromtheEast；buttheyhaveprovenaptpupilsandhaveexcelledtheiroldmasters。IwishIcouldfindanapothegmconcerningaformermasterwhowentbacktoschoolandsurpassedhiscleverpupil。
Thenon-existenceofsuchamaximprobablyindicatesthatnosuchcasehasasyetoccurred，butthatbynomeansprovesthatitneverwill。
ComingnowtoparticularsIwouldsaythatoneofthedistinguishingfeaturesintheAmericanpeoplewhichImuchadmireistheirearnestnessandperseverance。Whentheydecidetotakeupanything，whetheritbeaninventionortheinvestigationofadifficultproblem，theydisplayindomitableperseveranceandpatience。Mr。Edison，forexample，sleeps，itissaid，inhisfactoryandisinaccessiblefordayswhenhehasaproblemtosolve，frequentlyevenforgettingfoodandsleep。
IcanonlycomparehimtooursageConfucius，who，hearingacharmingpieceofmusicwhichhewantedtostudy，becamesoengrossedinitthatformanydaysheforgottoeat，whileforthreemonthshedidnotknowthetasteofmeat。
Thedauntlesscourageoftheaviators，notonlyinAmerica，butinEuropealso，isawonderfulthing。\"Thetolloftheair\"，intheshapeoffatalaccidentsfromaviation，mountsintothehundreds，andyetmenareundeterredinthepursuitoftheirinvestigations。
Withsuchintrepidity，perseverance，andgenius，itismerelyaquestionoftime，andIhopeitwillnotbelong，whentheartofflying，eitherbyaeroplanesorairships，willbeperfectlysafe。
WhenthattimearrivesImeantomakeanairtriptoAmerica，andIanticipatepleasuresfromthenovelexperiencesuchasIdonotgetfromtravellingbylandorsea。
TheremarkablegeniusfororganizationobservableanywhereinAmericaarousesthevisitor\'senthusiasticadmiration。Onevisitsamercantileofficewhereanumberofmenareworkingatdifferentdesksinalargeroom，andmarvelsatthequietandsystematicmannerinwhichtheyperformtheirtasks；oronegoestoabigbankandisamazedatthelargenumberofcustomersevergoinginandcomingout。
Itisdifficulttocalculatetheenormousamountofbusinesstransactedeveryhour，yetallisdonewithperfectorganizationandaproperdivisionoflabor，sothatanyinformationrequiredisfurnishedbythemanagerorbyaclerk，atamoment\'snotice。
Ihaveoftenbeenintheseplaces，andthecalm，quiet，earnestwayinwhichtheemployeesperformedtheirtaskswasbeyondpraise。
Itshowedthattheheadswhoorganizedandweredirectingtheinstitutionshadafirmgraspofmultiplexdetails。
WeChinesehaveareputationforbeinggoodbusinessmen。
Wheninbusinessonourownaccount，orinpartnershipwithafewfriends，wesucceedmarvelouslywell；butwehaveyetmuchtolearnregardinglargeconcernssuchascorporationsorjointstockcompanies。
Thisisnottobewonderedat，forjointstockcompaniesandcorporationsasconductedintheWestwereunknowninChinabeforetheadventofforeignmerchantsinourmidst。SincethenafewjointstockcompanieshavebeenstartedinHongkong，Shanghai，andotherports；
thesehavebeencarriedonbyChineseexclusively，butthemanagershavenotasyetmasteredthesystematicWesternmethodsofconductingsuchconcerns。
Evenunpractisedandinexperteyescanseegreatroomforimprovementinthemanagementofthesebusinesses。Here，Imustadmit，theJapaneseareaheadofus。Take，forinstance，theYokohamaSpecieBank:
ithasapaid-upcapitalofYen30，000，000andhasbranchesandagenciesnotonlyinalltheimportanttownsinJapan，butalsoindifferentportsinChina，London，NewYork，SanFrancisco，Honolulu，Bombay，Calcuttaandotherplaces。Itisconductedinthelatestandmostapprovedscientificfashion；itsreportsandaccounts，publishedhalf-yearly，revealtheexactstateoftheconcern\'sfinancialpositionandincidentallyshowthatitmakesenormousprofits。True，severalChinesebanksofaprivateorofficialnaturehavebeenestablished，andsomeofthemhavebeendoingafairbusiness，butcandorcompelsmetosaythattheyarenotconductedasscientificallyasistheYokohamaSpecieBank，ormostAmericanbanks。CorporationsandjointstockcompaniesarestillintheirinfancyinChina；butChinesemerchantsandbankers，profitingbythemistakesofthepast，willdoubtlessgraduallyimprovetheirsystems，sothatinthefuturetherewillbelessandlesscausetofindfaultwiththem。
OnesystemwhichhasbeeninvoguewithinthelasttenortwentyyearsinAmerica，andwhichhaslatelyfiguredmuchinthelimelight，isthatof\"Trusts\"。Here，again，itisonlytheingenuityofAmericanswhichcouldhavebroughtthesystemtosuchgiganticproportionsastomakeitpossibleforittowieldanimmenseinfluenceovertrade，notonlyinAmericabutinothercountriesalso。ThemainobjectoftheTrustseemstobetocombineseveralcompaniesunderonedirection，soastoeconomizeexpenses，regulateproductionandthepriceofcommoditiesbydestroyingcompetition。Itsadvocatesdeclaretheirpolicytobeproductiveofgoodtotheworld，inasmuchasitsecuresregularsuppliesofcommoditiesofthebestkindatfairandreasonableprices。
Ontheotherhand，itsopponentscontendthatTrustsareinjurioustotherealinterestsofthepublic，assmallcompaniescannotcompetewiththem，andwithouthealthycompetitiontheconsumeralwayssuffers。
WhereexpertsdifferitwereperhapswiserformenottoexpressanopinionlestIshouldshownomorewisdomthantheboywhoarguedthatlobsterswereblackandnotredbecausehehadoftenseenthemswimmingaboutontheseashore，butwasconfutedbyhisfriendwhosaidheknewtheywereredandnotblackforhehadseenthemonhisfather\'sdinnertable。
Thefact，however，whichremainsindisputable，istheimmensepowerofwealth。
Nooneboycottsmoney。Itissomethingnooneseemstogetenoughof。
Ihaveneverheardthatmulti-millionaireslikeCarnegieorRockefellereverexpressedregretsatnotbeingpoor，eventhoughtheyseemmoreeagertogivemoneyawaythantomakeit。MostpeopleinAmericaaredesirousformoney，andrusheverydaytotheirbusinesswithnootherthoughtthantoaccumulateitquickly。Theirloveofmoneyleavesthemscarcelytimetoeat，todrink，ortosleep；wakingorsleepingtheythinkofnothingelse。
Wealthistheirgoalandwhentheyreachittheywillprobablybestillunsatisfied。TheChineseare，ofcourse，notaversetowealth。
Theycanenjoythejinglingcoinasmuchasanyone，butmoneyisnottheironlythought。Theycarryontheirbusinesscalmlyandquietly，andtheyareverypatient。ItrusttheywillalwaysretainthesehabitsandneverfeelanytemptationtoimitatetheAmericansintheirmadchaseaftermoney。
Thereis，however，oneAmericancharacteristicmycountrymenmightlearnwithprofit，andthatistherecognitionofthefactthatpunctualityisthesoulofbusiness。Americansknowthis；
itisonecauseoftheirsuccess。MakeanappointmentwithanAmericanandyouwillfindhiminhisofficeattheappointedtime。
Everythingtobedonebyhimduringthecourseofthedayhasitsfixedhour，andhenceheisabletoaccomplishagreateramountofworkinagiventimethanmanyothers。Chinese，unfortunately，havenoadequateconceptionsofthevalueoftime。Thisisdue，perhaps，toourmodeofreckoning。
IntheWestadayisdividedintotwenty-fourhours，andeachhourintosixtyminutes，butinChinaithasbeenforcenturiesthecustomtodividedayandnightintotwelveshih\"periods\"oftwohourseach，sothatanappointmentisnotmadeforaparticularminute，asinAmerica，butforoneorotherofthesetwo-hourperiods。
Thishascreatedingrainedhabitsofunpunctualitywhichclocksandwatchesandcontactwithforeignersareslowtoremove。Thetime-keepingrailwayis，however，workingarevolution，especiallyinplaceswherethereisonlyonetrainaday，andamanwhomissesthathastowaitforthemorrowbeforehecanresumehisjourney。
Someyearsagoaluncheon——\"tiffin\"wecallitinChina——
wasgiveninmyhonorataPekingrestaurantbyacoupleoffriends；
thehourwasfixedatnoonsharp。Iarrivedonthestrokeoftwelve，butfoundthatnotonlywerenoneofthegueststhere，butthateventhehoststhemselveswereabsent。AsIhadseveralengagementsIdidnotwait，butIorderedafewdishesandatewhatIrequired。
NoneofthehostshadmadetheirappearancebythetimeIhadfinished，soIleftwitharequesttothewaiterthathewouldconveymythanks。
Knowingtheunpunctualityofourpeople，theconvenersofapublicmeetingwilloftentelltheChinesethatitwillbeginanhourortwobeforethesettime，whereasforeignersarenotifiedoftheexacthour。
NotbeingawareofthisdeviceIonceattendedaconferenceattheappointedtime，onlytofindthatIhadtowaitforoveranhour。
IprotestedthatinfutureIshouldbetreatedasaforeignerinthisregard。
AscivilizedpeoplehavealwaysfounditnecessarytowearclothesIoughtnottoomitareferencetothemhere，butinviewofwhathasalreadybeensaidinthepreviouschapterIshallatthisjuncturecontentmyselfwithquotingMrs。M。S。G。Nichols，anEnglishladywhohaswrittenonthissubject。Shecharacterizestheclothingofmenasunbeautiful，butsheprincipallydevotesherattentiontothedressofwomen。
Iquotethefollowingfromherbook:*\"Therelationofawoman\'sdresstoherhealthisseldomconsidered，stilllessisitcontemplatedastoitseffectuponthehealthofherchildren；yeteveryonemustseethatallthatconcernsthemothersofourraceisimportant。
Theclothingofwomanshouldberegardedineveryaspectifwewishtoseeitseffectuponherhealth，andconsequentlyuponthehealthofheroffspring。
Theusualwayistoconsiderthebeautyorfashionofdressfirst，itscomfortandhealthfulnessafterward，ifatall。
Wemustreversethismethod。First，use，thenbeauty，flowingfrom，orinharmonywith，use。Thatisthetruelawoflife\"p。14。
Onpage23shecontinues:\"Agreatdealmoreclothingiswornbywomeninsomeoffashion\'sphasesthanisneededforwarmth，andmostlyintheformofheavyskirtsdraggingdownuponthehips。
Theheavytrailingskirtsalsoareburdensuponthespine。
Suchevilsofwomen\'sclothes，especiallyinviewofmaternity，canhardlybeover-estimated。Thepainsandperilsthatattendbirthareheightened，ifnotcaused，byimproperclothing。
Thenervesofthespineandthematernalsystemofnervesbecomediseasedtogether。\"Andonpage32shewrites:
\"WhenIfirstwenttoaneveningpartyinafashionabletown，Iwasshockedatseeingladieswithlowdresses，andIcannotevennowliketoseeaman，justlycalledarake，lookingatthehalf-exposedbosomofalady。Thereisnodoubtthattoomuchclothingisanevil，aswellastoolittle；butclothingthatsweltersorleavesuswithacoldarebothlesserevilsthantheexposureofesotericcharmstostirthealreadyheatedbloodofthe`roue\'。Whatwehavetodo，asfarasfashionandthepublicopinionitformswillallow，istosuitourclothingtoourclimate，andtobetrulymodestandhealthfulinourattire。\"Mrs。Nichols，speakingfromherownexperience，hasnaturallydevotedherbooklargelytoacondemnationofwoman\'sdress，butman\'sdressaswornintheWestisjustasbad。Thedreadfulhighcollarandtightclotheswhicharedonnedalltheyearround，irrespectiveoftheweather，mustbeveryuncomfortable。
Menwearnearlythesamekindofclothingatallseasonsoftheyear。
Thatmightbetoleratedinthefrigidortemperatezones，butshouldnotthestylebechangedinthetropicalheatofsummercommontotheEasterncountries？Ididnotnoticethatmenmademuchdifferenceintheirdressinsummer；Ihaveseenthem，whenthethermometerwasrangingbetween80and90，wearingasingletshirt，waistcoatandcoat。
Thecoatmaynothavebeenasthickasthatworninwinter，stillitwasmadeofserge，woolorsomesimilarlyunsuitablestuff。
Howeverhottheweathermightbeitwasseldomthatanyonewastobeseenonthestreetwithoutacoat。Nowonderwefrequentlyhearofdeathsfromsunstrokeorheat，afatalityalmostunknownamongtheChinese。**——
*\"TheClothesQuestionConsideredinitsRelationtoBeauty，ComfortandHealth\"，byMrs。M。S。G。Nichols。
PublishedinLondon，32FopstoneRoad，Earl\'sCourt，S。W。
**TherehavebeenafewcasesofChineseworkmenwhothroughcarelessnesshaveexposedthemselvesbyworkinginthesun；butsuchcasesarerare——
Chinesedresschangeswiththeseasons，varyingfromthethickestfurtothelightestgauze。Inwinterwewearfurorgarmentslinedwithcottonwadding；inspringwedonalighterfurorsomeotherthinnergarment；
insummerweusesilk，gauzeorgrasscloth，accordingtotheweather。
Ourfashionsaresetbytheweather；notbythearbitrarydecreesofdressmakersandtailorsfromPekingorelsewhere。
ThenumberofdeathsinAmericaandinEuropeeveryyear，resultingfromfollowingthefashionmust，Ifear，beconsiderable，althoughofcoursenodoctorwoulddareinhisdeathcertificatetoassignunsuitableclothingasthecauseofthedeceaseofapatient。
Eveninthematterofdressing，andinthistwentiethcentury，\"mightisright\"。Intheopinionofanimpartialobserverthedressofmanisqueer，andthatofwoman，uncouth；
butasallnationsinEuropeandAmericaarewearingthesamekindofdress，mightyConventionalityisextendingitsinfluence，sothatevensomenativesoftheEasthavediscardedtheirnationaldressinfavoroftheuglierWesternattire。Ifthenewlyadopteddresswere，ifnobetterthan，atleastequalto，theoldoneinbeautyandcomfort，itmightbesanctionedforthesakeofuniformity，assuggestedinthepreviouschapter；butwhenitisotherwisewhyshouldweimitate？
Whyshouldtheworldassumeadepressingmonotonyofcostume？
Whyshouldweallownature\'sdiversitiestodisappear？
FormerlyaChinesestudentwhenreturningfromEuropeorAmericaatonceresumedhisnationaldress，forifhedaredtocontinuetofavortheWesterngarbhewaslookeduponasa\"half-foreigndevil\"。
SincetheestablishmentoftheChineseRepublicin1911，thissentimenthasentirelychanged，andtheinelegantforeigndressisnolongerconsideredfantastic；onthecontraryithasbecomeafashion，notonlyincitieswhereforeignersarenumerous，butevenininteriortownsandvillageswheretheyareseldomseen。
Chineseladies，liketheirJapanesesisters，havenotyet，totheircreditbeitsaid，becomeobsessedbythisnewfashion，whichshowsthattheyhavemorecommonsensethansomemen。
Ihave，however，seenafewyoungandfoolishgirlsimitatingtheforeigndressofWesternwomen。IndeedthiscrazeforWesternfashionhasevencaughtholdofourlegislatorsinPeking，who，havingfallenunderthespellofclothes，insolemnconclavedecidedthatthefrockcoat，withthetall-tophat，shouldinfuturebetheofficialuniform；
andtheswallow-tailcoatwithawhiteshirtfronttheeveningdressinChina。
IneedhardlysaythatthisactionofthePekingParliamentarouseduniversalsurpriseandindignation。Howcouldthescholarsandgentryoftheinterior，whereforeigntailorsareunknown，beexpectedtodressinfrockcoatsatformalceremonies，ortoattendpublicentertainmentsinswallow-tails？Publicmeetingswereheldtodiscussthesubject，andthenewstyleofdresswascondemnedasunsuitable。Atthesametimeitwasthoughtbymanythatthepresentdressesofmenandwomenleavemuchroomforimprovement。ItshouldbementionedthatassoonasitwasknownthatthedressuniformwasunderdiscussioninParliament，thesilk，hatandothertradesguilds，imitatingthehabitsofthewide-worldwhichalwayseverywhereconsidersselffirst，fearingthatthecontemplatedchangeindressmightinjuriouslyaffecttheirrespectiveinterests，sentdelegatestoPekingto\"lobby\"themembersto\"goslow\"andnottointroducetooradicalchanges。
Theresultwasthatinadditiontothetwoformsofdressabovementioned，twomorepatternswereauthorized，oneforman\'sordinarywearandtheotherforwomen，bothfollowingChinesestyles，butalltobemadeofhome-manufacturedmaterial。Thiswastosoothetheruffledfeelingsofthemanufacturersandtraders，forinpurchasingaforeignsuitsomeofthematerialsatleast，ifnotall，mustbeofforeignoriginorforeignmake。
DuringarecentvisittoPekingIprotestedagainstthisnovelfashion，andsubmittedamemorandumtoPresidentYuanwitharequestthatitshouldbetransmittedtoParliament。Mysuggestionisthatthefrock-coatandevening-dressregulationshouldbeoptional，andthattheChinesedressuniformassketchedbymeinmymemorandumshouldbeadoptedasanalternative。Iaminhopesthatmysuggestionwillbefavorablyconsidered。ThepointIhavetakenisthatChinesediplomatsandotherswhogoabroadshould，inordertoavoidcuriosity，andforthesakeofuniformity，adoptWesterndress，andthatthosewhoareathome，iftheyprefertheuglychange，shouldbeatlibertytoadoptit，butthatitshouldnotbecompulsoryonotherswhoobjecttosufferingfromcoldinwinter，ortobeingliabletosunstrokeinsummer。