It\'slikelookingoveraprecipiceallthetime。IwassogladwhenIgotdownthatIsangwithglee。Ihateworklikethat，andtomakeitworseItookeverybody\'spictureontopofthePyramid，andforgottohaveoneofthemtakeme，sothereisnowaytoproveIeverwentup。LittleandIhiredtwodonkeysandcalledthem\"Gallegher\"and\"VanBibber\"andracedthem。Mydonkeywassolittlethattheycouldn\'tseehim——onlyhisears。Gallegherwon。Thedonkey-boyscalleditVonBebey，soIdon\'tthinkitwillhelpthesaleofthebook。
TodaywewenttocallontheKhedive。Itwasveryinformalandtoodemocratictosuitmytastes。Wewentthroughalineofhisbodyguardinthehall，andthemasterofceremoniestookusupseverallowbutwidestairwaystoahall。Inthehallwasalittlefatyoungmaninafrockcoatandafez，andheshookhandswithus，andwalkedintoanotherroomandweallsatdownonchairscoveredwithwhitemuslin。ItalkedandLittletalkedaboutmeandtheKhedivepretendedtobeverymuchhonored，andsaidtheAmericanwhohadcomeoverafterourrebellionhaddonemorefortheofficersinhisarmythanhadanyoneelse，meaningtheEnglish。HedidnotsaythatbecausewewereAmericans，butbecausehehatestheEnglish。Hestruckmeasbeingstubborn，whichisonesideofstupidnessandyetnotstupid，andIoccasionallywokehimtoburstsofenthusiasmovertheSoudanese。Hisburstswerechiefly\"Ali。\"Littleseemedtoamusehimverymuch，andLittletreatedhimexactlylikealittleboywhoneededtobecheeredup。IthinkinonewayitwasthemostcuriouscontrastIeversaw。\"Ed\"LittleofAbilene，Kansas，tellingtherulerofEgyptnottoworry，thathehadplentyofyearsinwhichtoliveandthathewouldgetaheadofthemallyet。
Thosewerenothiswords，butthatwasthetone，hewasperfectlyfriendlyandsincereaboutit。
ThisplaceappealstomeasaboutthebestplacewithwhichtogetmixedupwiththatIknow，andI\'vegoneoveragreatmanymapssinceIlefthomeandknowjusthowsmalltheworldis。So，IsenttheKhedivemybooksafterhavingaskedhispermission，andreceivedthemostabjectthanks。AndasCromercalledonme，Iamgoingtodroparoundonhimwithafewofthem。Somedaytherewillbefinethingsgoingonhere，andthereisonlyoneGod，andLordCromerishisProphetinthiscountry。TheythinkthatMohammedisbuttheyarewrong。Heisaverybigman。ThedayhesenthisultimatumtotheKhedivetellinghimtodismissFactaPashaandputbackRiazPasha，hewentoutinfullviewoftheGezerikdriveandplayedlawntennis。AnymanwhocancableforthreethousandmoretroopstoMaltaandstopatransportfulloftwothousandmoreatAdenwithonehand，andbangtennisballsaboutwiththeother，isgoinginthelongruntogetaheadofastoutlittleboyinaredfez。
Itisgettingawfullyhothere，almosthotenoughforme，andIcanlayasidemyovercoatbyteno\'clockinthemorning。
Everyoneelsehasbeeninflannelsandpithhelmets，butastheyhadtowearovercoatsatnightIcouldnotseetheadvantageofthecostume。
DICK。
IopenthistosaythatALLofyourlettershavejustcome，soIhaveintoxicatedmyselfwiththemforthelasthourandcangooverthemagaintomorrow。Icannottellyou，dearest，whatadelightyourlettersareandhowIenjoytheclippings。
IthinkofyouallthetimeandhowyouwouldlovethisBiblelandandseeingtheplaceswherePharaoh\'sdaughterfoundMoses，andhearingpeopletalkofSt。PaulandtheplaguesofEgyptandJosephandMaryjustasthoughtheyhadlivedyesterday。IhaveseentwoSt。Johnsalready，withlonghairandmelancholywildeyesandbarebreastsandlegs，withsheepskincovering，eatingfigsandpreachingtheirgospel。
Yesterdaytwomencamerunningintotownandtoldoneoftheprieststhattheyhadseenthenewmooninacertainwell，andthepriestproclaimedamonthoffasting，andthemenwhopulledusupthePyramidhadtorestbecausetheyhadnoteatenordrunkallday。Atsixasheikcalledfromthevillageandallthedonkey——boysandguidesaroundtheSphinxrantogetwaterandcoffeeandfood。Thinkofthat——oftwomenrunningthroughthestreettosaythattheyhadseenthenewmooninawell，wheneveryshopsellsWaterburywatchesandthepeoplewhopassedthemweredrivingdogcartswithEnglishcoachmenintop-bootsbehind。
Isthereanyotherplaceasincongruousasthis，asoldandasnew？
DICK。
ATHENS，March30，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IamnowinAthens，howIgothereisimmaterial。SufficeittosaythatneverinallmylifewasIsoillasIwasinthetwodayscrossingfromAlexandriatoPiraeus，whichIdidwithtwoothermeninthesamecabinmoreillthanIandprayingandswearingandgroaningallthetime。\"Itwasawful。\"
\"IhavecrossedinmanyshipsupontheseasAndsomeofthemweregoodandsomewerenot；
InGerman，P&O\'sandGenoese，ButtheKhedive\'swastheworstoneofthelot。
Wenevergotamoment\'speaceinherForeverybody\'dhowlorprayorbellow；
Shethrewusonourheadsoronourknees，Andturnedusallanunbecomingyellow。\"
Athensisasmalltownbutfine。Itischieflyyellowhouseswithredroofs，andmountainsaroundit，whichremindyouofpicturesyouhaveseenwhenayouth。AlsoolivetreesandstraightblackpinesandtheAcropolis。ThereisnotmuchofitleftasfarasIcanseefromthecity，butwhatthereisisenoughtomakeyouwishyouhadbrushedupyourGreekhistory。IhavenowreachedtheplacewherePanhasacave，wherethemanvotedagainstAristidesbecausehewashumanlytiredofhearinghimcalledtheJustandwheretheMinotaurateyoungwomen。
WhatwasintheIsleofCretebuttherockfromwhichthefatherofTheseusthrewhimself——isstillhere!AlsothehilluponwhichPaulstoodandtoldtheAthenianstheyweretoosuperstitious。Youcanimaginemyfeelingsatfindingallofthesethingsaretrue。AfterthisIamgoingtotheNorthPoletofindSantaClausandsorenewmyyouth。
IregrettosaythatitisrainingveryhardandAthensisnotsetforarainstorm。ItisalsocoldbutasIhavenotbeenwarmsinceIcrossedtheNorthRiverwithChas。amidcakesoficethatisofnoconsequence。WhenIcomehereagainIcomeinthesummer。Thegoodoldrulethatitiscoldinwinterandwarminsummerisagoodenoughruletofollow。Youhaveonlytotraveltofindouthowuniversallycoldwinteris。
lastnightIwasinCairo，IgotinacarriageanddroveoutalonetothePyramids。Itwasbeautifulmoonlight。IgotadonkeyandrodeuparoundthemandthenwalkedovertotheSphinx。Ihadneverunderstoodorseenitbefore。ItwasthecreepiestandmostimpressivethingIeverhadhappentome，I
dobelieve。Therewasnooneexceptthetwodonkey-boysandmyselfandtheSphinx。Allaboutwasthedesertandaboveitthepurpleskyandthewhitestarsandthegreatnegro\'sheadinfrontofyouwithitspawsstretchedout，andthemoonlightturningitintoshadowsandwhitelines。IthinkIstoodtheresolongthatIgotsortofdizzy。ItwasjustasifIhadbeenthefirstmantostumbleacrossit，andIfeltthatIwaswaybackthousandsofyearsandthattheghostsofCaesarandNapoleonandCleopatraandtherestwereintheair。Thatwasworththeentiretriptome。Thisplacepromisestobemostexciting，theNewYorkartistsareallhere，theyarethemostjauntilydullpeopleIevermet。DoyouknowwhatImean？Theyareverynicebutsostupid。Idon\'tletthembotherme。WhowasthechapwhowroteaboutthebottleofMalvoisie？becauseI
gotabottleofitforBREAKFASTanditisNOGOOD。Itislikesweetport。ButonaccountofthepoemanditsbeingvindupaysIgotit。
DearMother，Iwishyouwereherenowandenjoyingallthesebeautifulthings。IgotyouapresentinCairothatwillamuseyou。HadIstayedoninCairoIshouldhavehadmuchandmanymarksofdistinctionfromtheEnglish。LadyGower-Browne，whofoundoutfromthemthatIhadcalledandthattheyhaddonenothingexcepttoberude，raisedagreathueandcryandeverythingchanged。WhatshesaidofmeI
don\'tknowbutitmadeamostamusingdifference。GeneralWalkergallopedahalfmileacrossthedeserttogivemehisowncopyofthedirectionsfortheshambattle，andIwastohavemetCromeratdinnertete-a-tete，andGeneralKitchenersentapologiesbytwoothergeneralsandallthesubalternscalledonmeinabody。ThatwasthedaybeforeIleft。I
don\'tknowwhatLadyGower-Brownesaid，butitmadeachangewhichIamsorryIcouldnotavailmyselfofasIwantpoliticsaswellasmemories。
ThenexttimeIcomeIshallgotoevenfewerplacesandseemorepeople。
IftheHarpersdon\'tlookoutourinterestswillclash。I
lookatitlikethis。IcanalwaysseetheoldhistoricalthingsandtakemychildrenuptheNile，butIwantnowtomakefriendswiththeMammonofunrighteousnessandthemenofthehour。Imaywanttooccupyanhourortwomyselfsomedayandtheycanhelpme。IfAmericastartsinannexingislandsshewillneedpeopletotellherhowitisgenerallydoneanditisgenerallydone，Ifind，bytheEnglish。ImaygiveupliteratureandstartannexingthingslikeAlexanderandCaesarandNapoleon。TheysaytherewillbeanothercrisisinCairoinamonthorso。IfthatbetrueIamallrightandsolidwithbothparties。ButithasgottobeworthwhileofcourseorIwon\'tgoback。Thereisakinglivinginafinepalaceacrossthesquarefrommywindow，oneofhisofficersisnowchangingtheguardintherain。IhopetocallonthekingbecauseIlikehisguard。Theywearpetticoatsandtoesturnedupinfront。Don\'tyoumindwhatIsayaboutlikingpoliticsanddon\'tthinkIamnotenjoyingtheshowthings。I
haveacapacityforboththatissofarunsatisfied，andIamnowgoingoutintheraintotryandfindthepost-office。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
IamwellandhavebeenwellexceptseasicksinceFebruaryP。S——Afuneralisjustpassingthewindowwiththecorpseexposedtoviewasisthequaintcustomhere，toaddtoitshorrortheyrougethefaceofthecorpseandeverybodykissesit。IntheGreekchurchtheyburncandlesforpeopleandthenumberofcandlesIhaveburntforyouwouldlightSt。Paul\'s，andyououghttobegoodwithsomuchwarbeingexpendedalloverAthensforyou。Youbuycandlesinsteadoftippingthevergerorputtingitinthepoorbox，orbecauseyouaresuperstitiousandthinkitwilldosomegood，asIdo。
OrientExpress。SomewhereinBulgariaonthewaytoLondon。
April14th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
TuesdayIwroteyoualetterintheclubatConstantinopletellingyouhowgladIwouldbetogetoutofthatCityonApril17thontheOrientExpresswhichonlyleavestwiceaweekonThursdaysandMondays。SoanyonewhotravelsbytheOrientislookeduponfirstasamillionaireandsecond，ifhedoesnotbreakthejourneyatVienna，asagreatertravellerthanCol。BurnabyonhiswaytoKhiva。ImagineaKansasCitymanbreakingthejourneytoNewYork。AfterIwroteyouthatletterIwentinthenextroomandreadoftheNileExpeditioninsearchofGordon——thiswentthroughthreevolumesofTheGraphicandtooksometime，sothatwhenIhadreachedthepicturewhichannouncedthedeathofGordonitwashalfpastfiveandIhadnothingmoretodoforfourdays——ItwasrainingandcoldandmuddyandsoIjustmadeupmymindI
wouldgetupandgetoutandIjumpedaboutforonehourlikeakangarooandbysevenIwasontheOrientwithtwoCookmentohelpmeandhadshakenmyfistatthelastminaretlightofthatawfulcity。So，nowitisalloveranditisdone——I
havelearnedagreatdealinanimperfectwayofthejuxtapositionofcertaincountriesandoftheeasewithwhichonecantravelwithoutspeakinganyknownlanguagesandoftheabsolutenecessityforspeakingone，French。IamstilldisappointedaboutthearticlesbutselfishlyIhavemadealotoutofthetrip。Youhavenoideahowharditisnottotellaboutstrangethingsandyetyouknowpeopledonotcarehalfasmuchforthemasthingstheyknowallabout——Nomatter，itisdoneandwiththeexceptionofthelastweekitwasFINE。
\"I\'mgoingbacktoLondon，to`tea\'andlongfrockcoatsI\'mdonewithCookandseeingsightsI\'mdonewithtabled\'hotesSoclearthetrackyousignalmanFromSofiatoPless，I\'mgoingstraightforLondonOntheOrientExpress。
I\'mgoingstraightforLondonO\'erBulgaria\'sheavysandsToRottenRowandmuffins，soles，ChevalierandBrassBandsHo\'getawayyoubullockmanYou\'veheardthewhistleblowedalocomotivecomingdowntheGrandTrunkRoad。\"
ThisisagreatcountryandIwanttoaskallthenativesiftheyknow\"Stenie\"Bonsal。Theyareallhisfriendsandsoarethe\"Balkans，\"andallthelittleBalkans。NobodywearsEuropeanclotheshere。Theyareallasforeignandnativeandpicturesqueastheycanbe，thewomenwithbigsilverplatesovertheirstomachsandthemeninsheepskinandtightsandthesoldiersaregrand。Wehavebeenpassingalldaybetweensnowcoveredmountainsandbetweenherdsofcattleandredroofed，mudvillagesandlonglakesoficeandsnow——ItisabeautifuldayandIamveryhappy。Seconddayout15th——WearenowinHungaryandjustoutsideofBudaPesth\"thewickedestcityintheworld，\"stillinspiteofthatfactIamgoingon。IamverygladIcamethisway——ThepeasantsandsoldiersaremostamusingandlikeGermanpicture-paperswithblacklettertype——IshallstopadayinParisnowthatIhavefourextradays。
DICK。
InsightofParis——April16——1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
hasbeenthemostbeautifuldaysinceFebruary4th。
ItisthefirstdayinwhichIhavebeenwarm。AllthroughI
havehadavarnishofwarmtheverynowandagainbutnorealactualinternalwarmth——IamnowinsightofParisanditisthe16thofApril，intheelevenweekswhichhaveelapsedsincethe4thofFebruaryIhavebeeninSpain，France，Italy，Germany，Austria，Hungary，Serbia，Bulgaria，Turkey，Greece，EgyptandMorocco。IhavesatontheRockofGibraltar，sailedontheNileandtheSuezCanalandcrossedthroughtheDardanelles，overtheBalkans，thesteppesofHungaryandtheDanubeandRhine。Ihaveseenthesphinxbymoonlight，theParthenonandtheEiffelTowerandintwodaysmoreIshallhaveseenSt。Paul\'s。WhatdoyouthinkIshouldliketoseebestnow？YOU。IhavebeenworryingoflateastowhetherornotIshouldnotcomehomenowandleaveParisforanothertimebecauseitseemssoroughonyoutoleaveyouwithouteitherofyouryoungersonsforsolong。ButIhavethoughtitoveragreatdealandIthinkitbetterthatIshoulddoParisnowandleavemyselfclearfortherestoftheyear。I
promiseyouonethinghoweverthatIshallnotundertaketostayawaysolongagain；itistoolongandonegrowsoutofthings。ButnothingIfeel，willbesoeasyorsoamusingasParisandIintendtogetthroughwithitsoonandtrothometoyoubythemiddleofAugustATTHEVERYLATEST。So，pleasewritemeadeceitfulletterandsayyoudonotmissmeatallandthatmybeingsonearasParismakesagreatdifferenceandthatIambetteroutofthewayandifChasgoestoLondonIshallbenearhimincaseheforgetstoputonhisovershoesorinvolvesusinawarwithG。B。Now，motherdear，dowritemeacheerfulletterandsaythatyoudonotmindwaitinguntilthemiddleofAugustformeandwhenI
comebackthistimeIshallmakealongstaywithyouatMarionandtellyoulotsofthingsIhavenotwrittenyouandIshallnotgoawayagainforeversolongandifIdogoI
shallonlystayalittlewhile。Youhavenoideahowinterestingthisrushacrossthecontinenthasbeen。I
startedinsnowandthroughmarshescoveredwithiceandlonghornedcattleandnowweareinsuchabeautifulcleangreenlandwithgreenfieldsandgreentreesandfloweringbusheswhichyoucansmellasthetraingoesby。Inowthinkthatinsteadofbeingacafe-chantantsingerIshouldratherbeanAustrianbaronandownacastleonahillwitharedroofedvillagearoundit。Ihavespentalmostallofthetripsittingontheplatformandenjoyingthesightofthequeerpeasantsandthesoldiersandoldvillages。TonightIshallbein\"Paris，France\"asMortonusedtosayandIshallgetcleanandputonmydressclothesbutwhetherIshallgoseeYvetteGuilbertorRusticanaagainIdonotknow。PerhapsIshalljustpaddlearoundthefountaininthePlacedelaConcordeandmakemyselfthoroughlyathome。WithagreatdealoflovetoDadandNoraandChasandall。
DICK。
AtthetimethatRichard\'sfirsttravelarticlesappearedsomeofhiscriticstookumbrageatthefactthathewasevidentlyunderthedelusionthathehaddiscoveredLondon，Gibraltar，Athens，Paris，andtheothercitieshehadvisited，andthatnooneelsehadeverwrittenaboutthem。Asamatteroffactnoonecouldhavebeenmorekeenlyconsciousofwhatanoft-toldtaleweretheplacesthathehadchosentodescribe。
IfRichardtookitforgrantedthatthereaderwastotallyunacquaintedwiththepeoplesofthesecitiesandtheirways，itwasbecausehebelievedthatthatwasthebestwaytowriteadescriptivearticle，alwayshadbelievedit，andbelieveditsolongashewrote。AndwhateverdifferenceofopinionmayhaveexistedamongthecriticsandthepublicastoRichard\'sfiction，Ithinkitissafetosaythatasareporterhisworkofnearlythirtyyearsstoodatleastashighasthatofanyofhiscontemporariesorperhapsasthatofthereportersofalltime。Asaneditor，whenhegaveoutanassignmenttoareportertowriteanarticleonsomewell-wornsubjectandthereporterprotested，Richard\'sanswerwasthesame:\"Youmustalwaysrememberthatthatstoryhasn\'tbeenwrittenuntilYOUwriteit。\"AndwhenhesuggestedtoaneditorthathewouldliketowriteanarticleonBroadway，orthePanamaCanal，ortheruinsofRomeandtheeditordisapproved，Richard\'sargumentwas:\"Ithasn\'tbeendoneuntil_I_doit。\"Anditwasnotbecausehebelievedforamomentthathecoulddoitbetteroraswellasithadbeendone。Itwassimplybecauseheknewtheoldstorywasalwaysagoodstory，thatis，ifitwasseenwithneweyesandfromanewstandpoint。Attwenty-eighthehadwrittenabookaboutEnglandandherpeople，andthebookhadmetwithmuchsuccessbothinAmericaandEngland。Attwenty-nine，equallyunafraid，hehad\"covered\"theancientcitiesthatbordertheMediterranean，andnowParislaybeforehim!Thisthought——indeedfewthoughts——troubledRichardverymuchinthosedaysofhisearlysuccesses。Hehadyouth，friends，amarvellousspiritofadventure，andbesidestherearemanyworsefatesthanbeingconsignedtospendingafewmonthsinParis，havingathoroughlyjoyoustime，takingafewmentalnotes，andalittlelaterontransferringthemtopaperinthequietofapeacefulsummerhomeatMarion。
ChiefamonghisfriendsinParisatthistimewasCharlesDanaGibson，whowaslivinginacharmingoldhouseintheLatinQuarter，andwheretheartistdidsomeofhisbestworkandmadehimselfextremelypopularwithboththeParisiansandtheAmericancolony。InadditiontoGibsontherewereKennethFrazier，theportrait-painter，andTina，Newton，andJamesEustis，thedaughterandsonsofJamesB。Eustis，whoatthattimewasourambassadortoFrance，amostgenialandkindlyhost，whomademuchofRichardandhisyoungfriends。
PARIS，May5，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Itisanarrowstreetwithapartmenthousesofgraystoneandironbalconiesalongeithersideofit。Thesunsetsatoneendofthestreetatdifferenttimesduringthedayandweallleanoutonthebalconiestolook。Onthehouse，onebelowmine，ontheothersideofourstreet，isasquaresignthatsays:
ALFREDDEMUSSET
ESTMORTDANSCETTEMAISON
Agreatmanybeautifulladieswiththefashionableredshadeofhairstillcallthere，astheyusedtodowhenthepropercolorwasblackanditwasworninachignonandtheSecondEmpirehadbutjustbegun。Whiletheywaittheystretchoutintheircarriagesandgazeupatthebalconiesuntiltheyseeme，andasIwearagoldandpinksilkwrapperandnotmuchelse，theyconcentratealltheirattentiononthewrapperandforgettodropasighforthepoet。Therearetwoyoungpeopleonthesixthflooropposite，whocomeoutonthebalconyafterdinnerandholdontoeachotherandhetellsherallabouttheworkoftheday。Belowthereisawomanwhosewsnothingbutblackdresses，andwhodoesthatalldayandallnightbythelightofalamp。Andbelowtheconciergestandsalldayinalacecapandblackgownandblue，andlooksupthestreetanddownthestreetlikethewomaninfrontofHockley\'s。BUTontheflooroppositeminethereisabeautifulladyinapinkandwhitewrapperwithlongblackhairandsleepyblackeyes。Shedoesnottakeanyinterestinmypinkwrapper，butcontentsherselfwithpassingcabsandstraydogsandwomenwithloavesofbreadandbottlesintheirhandswhooccasionallystrayintoourstreet。Atsixsheappearsinanothergownandlittleslippersandabutterflyforahatandsays\"Good-by\"totheoldconciergeandtripsofftodinner。Lotsoflovetoall。
DICK。
PARIS，Mayllth，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Iamstillsomewhattentativeasregardsmyopinionoftheplace，whatitwillbringmeinthewayofmaterialIcannottell。Sofar，\"ParisDecadent\"wouldbeagoodtitleforanythingIshouldwriteofit。ItisnotthatIhaveseenonlytheworstsideofitbutthatthatseemstobesomuchthemostprominent。TheyworshipthehideousEiffelTowerandtheyareauseless，flippantpeoplewhoneversleepandyetdonothingwhileawake。To-morrowIamgoingtoaprettyinnsurroundedbyvinesandtreestoseeaprizefightwithallthesillyyoungFrenchmenandtheiryoungfriendsinblackandwhitewhoapetheEnglishmannersandcustomsevento\"labox。\"TonightattheAmbassadeurstherejectedloverofsomeactresstookagangofbulliesfromMontmartrethereandhissedandstonedher。IturnedupmostinnocentlyandgreatlyboredinthemidstofitbutIwastoofarawaytopoundanybody——IcollectedtwoEnglishmenandwewentinfronttoawaitherre-appearancebutshehadhystericsandwentoffinacabandsowewerenotgivenasecondopportunityofshowingthemtheyshouldplayfair。ItisatypicalincidentoftheFrenchmanandhasmademewrathy。Thewomenwatchingtheprizefightwillmakeagoodstoryandsowillthearmsoftheredmill，\"TheMoulinRouge\"theykeepturningandturningandgrindingouthealthandvirtueandsouls。
IdinedtonightwiththeC——sandP——s，theEx-Ministeranddisagreedwitheverybodyandfoundthemallverymiddleclassastointellect。AnoldEnglishladynexttomesaidaproposofsomething\"thatisbecauseyouarenotcleverlikeMr——anddonothavetoworkwithyourbrains。\"TowhichI
said，Ididnotmindnotbeingcleverasmyfatherwasamanytimesmillionaire，\"atwhichshebecameabjectlypolite。YoungRothensteinisgoingtodoapictureofmeto-morrowmorning。
ThereisnothingmuchmoretotellexceptthatahorsestoodonhisforelegsintheBoistheotherdayandchuckedmeintospace。IwasverysorebutIwentongoingaboutasitwastheVarnishingdayatthenewsalonandIwishedtoseeit。I
amovermystiffnessnowandif\"anybodywantstobuyabloomingbus\"Ihaveoneforsaleandfivepairsofridingbreechesandtwoofdittoboots。Nomoreridingforme——TheboxingbagisingoodordernowandIdonotneedforexercise。Theladyacrossthestreethasanewwrapperinwhichsheisevenmorecoldandhaughtythanbefore。\"IsingTarraraboomdeayandshekeepsfromlikingme。\"
DICK。
PARIS，May14th，1893。
DEARNORA:
ThingsaregettingmoreinterestinghereandIshallprobablyhavesomethingtowriteaboutafterall，althoughIshallnotknowtheplaceasIdidLondon。WillRothensteinhasdrawnapictureofmethatIlikeverymuchandifmotherlikesitVERY，VERYmuchshemayhaveitasaloanbutshemaynotlikeit。IdidnotliketotakeitsoIboughtanotherpictureofhim，oneofCoquelincadetandnowIhavetwo。
Coquelingavehimhisfirstcommissionwhenhewasnineteen，twoyearsago，andthenaskedhimtodotwosketches。AftertheseweredoneCoquelintoldhimbyletterthathewouldgivehimhalfwhattheyhadagreeduponforthebigpictureforthetwosketchesandbeggedthebigpictureasagift。SoRothensteincuttheheadandshouldersoutofthebigoneandsenthimthearmsandlegs。ItistheheadhecutoutthatI
have。WhenRothensteinandIandCoquelinbecomefamous，thatwillmakeagoodstory。IhavealsoindulgedmyselfinthepurchaseofseveralofCheretsworksofart。Theycostthreefrancsapiece。WehavehadsomedelightfullunchesattheAmbassadeurswithCushingandotherartistsandlastnightI
wentoutintotheGrandeMondetoabalmasqueforcharityatthepalaceoftheComtessedelaFerrondeux。Itwasverystupidandthemenoutnumberedthewomen30to1，whichareinterestingodds。To-daywewenttoWhistler\'sandsatoutinagardenwithhighwallsaboutitanddrankteaandlaughedatRothenstein。ThelastthinghesaidwasattheAmbassadeurswhenoneofthestudentspickingupaforksaid，\"ThesearethesamesortofforksIhave。\"Rothensteinsaid\"yes，Ididnotknowyoudinedherethatoften。\"Someoneaskedhimwhyheworehishairlong，\"Totestyourmanners\"heanswered。HeisadiscipleofWhistler\'sandWilde\'sandsaid\"yes，I
defendthemattheriskoftheirlives。\"DidItellyouofhissaying\"Itismucheasiertoloveone\'sfamilythantolikethem。\"Andwhensomeonesaid\"DidyouhearhowMrs。B。
treatedMr。C。，amanhedislikeshesaid，\"no，butI\'mgladshedid。\"ItwaslovelyatWhistler\'sandsuchacontrasttotheotherAmericansalonIwenttolastSunday。Itwassoquiet，andgreenandprettyandeverybodywassounobtrusivelypolite。
RothensteinworemyrosetteandmadeagreatsensationandI
wascongratulatedbyWhistlerandAbbeyandPennell。
Rothensteinsaidhewasgoingtohaveadoublebreastedwaistcoatmadewithrosettesofdecorationsforbuttons。TomorrowLordDufferinhasaskedmetobreakfastattheEmbassy。Hewasatthemaskedballlastnightandwasverynice。HeremindsmeexactlyofDisraeliinappearance。ItisawfullyhothereandaFairforcharityhasaskedmetoputmynamein\"Gallegher\"tohaveitraffledfor。\"Dear\"BonsalarrivesherenextSunday，soIamingreatanticipation。Iamverywell，tellmother，andamused。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
PARIS，June13，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Thereisnothingmuchtosayexceptthatthingsstillgoon。
IfeellikeoneofthoselittleIndiarubberballsinthejetofafountainbeingturnedandtwistedandnotallowedtorest。TodayIhavebeentohearYvetteGuilbertrehearseandthoughtherallChasthinksheronlyhersongsthisseasonarebeneaththemoralsofamedicalstudent。Itisveryhotanditisgettinghotter。IhadanamusingtimeattheGrandPrixwhereTinawonalotofmoneyonatipIgaveherwhichIdidnotbackmyself。IntheeveningNewtontookmetodinnerandtotheJardindePariswheretheyhad10francadmittanceandwhereeverythingwentthatwasn\'tnailed。Thedudesputcandlesontheirhighhatsandthegirlssnuffedthemoutwithkicksandatonetimethecrowdmobbedthebandstandandthenthestageandplayedonalltheinstruments。Themenwereallswellsineveningdressandthewomeninbeautifulballdressesanditwasawonderfulsight。ItonlyhappensonceayearliketheYale-PrincetonnightatKosterandBialsexceptthatthewomenareallveryfineindeed。Theyrodepig-a-backracesandsangallthesongs。IhaddinnerwithJohnDrewlastnight。IoccasionallysleepandifNoradoesn\'tcomeontimeIshallbeaskeletonandhavenomoneyleft。AsamatteroffactIamfatterthaneverandcaneatallsortsofimpossiblethingsherethatIcouldnevereatathome。IluncheverydaywiththeEustisesandwedineoutalmosteverynight。Iconsortentirelywiththepoorestofartstudentsorthenoblestofprincessesandsofarhavekeptoutofmischief，butyoucannevertellforthisisawickedcitytheysay，oritstrikesmeasmostamusingatpresentonlyIcannotseewhatHarperandBros。aregoingtogetoutofit。IsaidthatofLondonsoIsupposeitwillallstraightenoutbythetimeIgetback。
DICK。
CHAPTERVII
FIRSTPLAYS
WhentheseasoninParishadreacheditsend，RichardreturnedtoLondonandlaterontoMarion，wherehespentthelatesummerandearlyfall，workingonhisMediterraneanandParisarticles，andcompletinghisnovel\"SoldiersofFortune。\"InOctoberhereturnedtoNewYorkandoncemoreassumedhiseditorialdutiesandtookhisusualactiveinterestinthewinter\'sgayeties。
ThefirstoftheselettersreferstoadinnerofwelcomegiventoSirHenryIrving。ThelasttwotobooksbymymotherandRichard，andwhichwerepublishedsimultaneously。
NEWYORK，November27，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Thedinnerwasveryfine。IwasverygladIwent。WhitelawReidsatononesideofSirHenryIrvingandHoracePorterontheother。HowellsandWarnercamenext。JohnRussellYoungandMarkTwain，Millet，Palmer，Hutton，Gilderandalotmorewerethere。Therewerenonewspapermen，notevencriticsnoractorsthere，whichstruckmeasinteresting。Themenwereverynicetome。EspeciallyYoung，Reid，IrvingandHowells。
EverybodysaidwhenIcamein，\"Iusedtoknowyouwhenyouwerealittleboy，\"sothatsomeonesaidfinally，\"WhatadisagreeablelittleboyyouMUSThavebeen。\"IsatnextachapfromBrazilwhotoldmelotsofamusingthings。Onestoryifitisgoodsavesawholedayforme。OnehetoldwasofaGermanexplorertowhomDonPedrogaveanaudience。TheEmperoraskedhim，withsometouchofpatronage，ifhehadevermetakingbefore。\"Yes，\"theGermansaidthoughtfully；
\"five，threewildandtwotame。\"
MarkTwaintoldsomeveryfunnystories，andcapturedmebecauseIneverthoughthimfunnybefore，andIrvingtoldsomeaboutStanley，andeverybodytalkedinterestingly。IrvingsaidhewaslookingforwardtoseeingDadwhenhereachedPhiladelphia。\"Itisnicetohaveseenyou，\"hesaid，\"butI
havestilltoseeyourfather，\"asthoughIwasnotenough。
DICK。
NEWYORK，1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
IcannottellyouhowtouchedandmovedIwasbythethreeinitialsinthebook。ItwasagenuineandcompletesurpriseandwhenIcameacrossitwhileIwasexaminingtheletterpresswithcriticalapprobationandwithnoideaofwhatwastocome，itleftmequitebreathless——Itwassosweetofyou——YouunderstandmeandIunderstandyouandyouknowhowmuchthatcountstome——Ithinkthebookisawfullyprettyandinsuchgoodtaste——ItisquiteadelighttotheeyeandIammuchmorekeenaboutitthanoveranyofmyown——IhavesentittosomeofmyfriendsbutIhavenotreadityetmyself，asIamwaitinguntilIgetontheboatwhereIshallnotbedisturbed——ThenIshallwriteyouagain——Itwasawfullygoodofyou，andIamsopleasedtohaveittogiveaway。Ineverhadanythingtoshowpeoplewhentheyaskedforoneofyourotherbooksandthiscomesinsuchanunquestionableform——Withlotsoflove。
DICK。
NEWYORK，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IgotyourniceletterandonefromDad。Bothcallingmemanyadjectivespleasingtohearalthoughtheydonothappentofit。Soyouareinathirdeditionareyou？TheseYOUNG
writersarecrowdingmetothewall。IfeelthrillsofpridewhenIseeussittingcheekbyjowlonthenews-stands。
Lotsoflove。
InFebruary，1894，RichardwasforcedbyasevereattackofsciaticatogiveuptemporarilythegayetiesofNewYorkandforacurehenaturallychoseourhomeinPhiladelphia，whereheremainedformanyweeks。Althoughunabletoleavehisbed，hecontinuedtodoaconsiderableamountofwork，includingthenovelette\"ThePrincessAline，\"inthewritingofwhichI
believemybrothertookmorepleasurethaninthatofanystoryornovelheeverwrote。ThefutureEmpressofRussiawastheheroineofthetale，andthatsheeventuallyreadthestoryandwasapparentlydelightedwithitcausedRichardmuchhumanhappiness。
PHILADELPHIA。
March5th。
DEARCHAS:
Iamgettingrapidlybetterowingtoregularhoursandlightliteratureandhomecomforts。IamnotblueasIwasandmymorbidnesshasgoneandIonlygetdepressedattimes。IamstillhoweverfeelingtiredandIthinkIwilltakequitearestbeforeIventureacrosstheseas。ButacrossthemIwillcomenomatterifallthenervesonearthjumpandpull。Still，IthinkitwiserforallconcernedthatIgetthoroughlywellsothatwhenIdocomeIwon\'thavetobecuttingbackhomeagainasI
didlasttime。Weareyoungyetandtheworld\'swideandthere\'sanewfarcecomedywritteneveryminuteandIhaveagreatmanythingstodomyselfsoIintendtogetstrongandthendothem。Ienclosetwopoems。Iamgoingtohavethemprintedformyparticularpalslater。Iamwritingonetoallofyoufolksoverthere。
DICK。
TAKEMEBACKTOBROADWAY，WHERE
THEORCHIDSGROW
WITHAPOLOGIESTOTHEWESTERNDIALECTPOETS
\"IhavewanderedupanddownsomewhatinmanydifferentlandsIhavebeentoFortWorth，Texas，andI\'vetrampedthroughJerseysands，IhaveseenPike\'sPeakbyMoonlight，andI\'vevisitedtheFairAndtosaveenumerationI\'vebeennearlyeverywhere。
ButnomatterwhereIrestedandnomatterwhereI\'dgo，IhavelongedtobeonBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
SomepeoplelovetheliliesfairthathideinmossydellsSomefolksarefondofnewmownhay，beforetherainyspellsButgivetometheorchidsrarethathanginThorley\'sstore，AndinFleischman\'sattheHoffman，andinhalfadozenmoreAndwhenIseethemfarfromhometheymakemyheart\'sbloodglowFortheytakemebacktoBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
LetParisboastofboulevardswhereonecansitanddrinkThereisnosuchchanceonBroadway，attheBrowerHouse，`Idon\'tthink。\'
Andwhereelsearetherefairsoubrettesinpipeclayedtennisshoes，AndboysinsilkensashespromenadingbyintwosOhyoucanboastofanystreetofwhichyou\'reproudtoknowButgivemesleepyBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
LetpoetssingofchimingbellsandgentlylowingkineIliketheclangingcablecarslikefireenginesinlineAndInevermissthesunsetandformoonlightneversighWhen`SweptbyOceanBreezes。\'flashesoutagainstthesky。
AndwhentheTenderloinawakes，andopentheatresglowIwanttobeonBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。\"
AVOUS，JOHNDREW
\"JohnDrew，IamyourdebtorForaverypleasantletterAndalotofcabinetphotosOfthe`Butterflies\'andyouAndIthinkitverykindThatyoukeptmesoinmindAndpitiedmeinexileSoIdo，JohnDrew。
2
JohnDrew，\'twixtyouandmePreciouslittleIcanseeOfthatgoodthereisinSolitudeThatpoetssaytheyview。
For_I_hatetobeinbedWithacandleatmyheadSittingvisaviswithConscience。
Sowouldyou，JohnDrew。
3
JohnDrew，thenpromisemeThatassoonasIamfreeImaysitinthefirstentranceAsLambalwaysletsmedo。
AndwatchyoufumeandfretWhiletheinnocentsoubretteTakesthecentreofthestagea——
Wayfromyou，JohnDrew。\"
R。H。D。
Inthesummerof1894RichardwenttoLondonforapurelysocialvisit，butwhilehewastherePresidentCarnotwasassassinated，andhewenttoParistowritethe\"story\"ofthefuneralandoftheelectionofthenewPresident。
VERSAILLES，June24，1894。
IamoutheretoseetheelectionofthenewPresident。I
jumpedonthemailcoachandcameoffinahurrywithoutanybreakfast，butIhadaprettydriveout，andtheguardandI
talkedofLondon。Thepalaceisclosedandnooneisadmittedexceptbycard，soIhaveseenonlytheoutsideofit。Itismostinteresting。Thereisnotaribbonorabadge；notabanneroraband。Thetownisasquietasalways，andtherearenot200peoplegatheredatthegatethroughwhichthedeputiespass。ComparedtoanelectionconventioninChicago，itismostinteresting。HowlivelyitisinsideofthechamberwherethethingisgoingonIcannotsay。I
shallnotwaittoheartheresult，butwillreturnonthecoach。
NothingcouldbemorecuriousthantheapparentindifferenceofthepeopleofParistotheassassinationofthePresident。
Twodaysafterhediedtherewasnotasingleflagathalfmastamongtheprivateresidences。TheGovernmentbuildings，thehotelsandthestoreswereallthatadvertisedtheirgrief。IshallhaveaninterestingstorytowriteofitfortheParisianseries。DanaGibsonandIwillwaituntilafterthefuneralandthengotoAndorra。Ifhedoesnotgo，Imaygoalone，butperhapsIshallgobacktoLondonatonce。Thishasbeenaninterestingtimehere，butonlybecauseitissodifferentfromwhatonewouldexpect。Itreadslikeaburlesquetonotetheexpressionsofcondolencefromallovertheworld，andtomarktheself-satisfactionoftheFrenchatattractingsomuchsympathy，andtheirabsoluteindifferencetothedeathofCarnot。Itismostcurious。Wehaveanidealtime。NeverbeforehaveIhadsuchjollydinners，withsuchgoodtalkandsuchamusingcompanions。
DICK。
LONDON，July15，1894。
DEARMOTHER:
Mr。IrvinggaveasupperlastnighttoMme。BernhardtandMme。
Rejane。Therewereabouttwentypeople，andweateintheBeefsteakRoomoftheLyceumTheater，whichissocalledaftertheoldBeefsteakClubwhichformerlymetthere。Ihadamostdelightfultime，andtalkedtoalltheFrenchwomenandtoMissTerry，whosentherlovetoDad。Shesaid，\"IdidnotSEEhimthislastvisit；thatis，IsawhimbutIdidnotseehim。\"Herdaughterisaverysweetgirl，andthepictureMissTerrymadeonherkneeslookingupatBernhardtandRejanewhentheychatteredinFrenchwaswonderful。NeithershenorIrvingcouldspeakawordofFrench，andwheneveranyoneelsetried，thecrowdallstoodinacircleandapplaudedandguyedthem。Afteritwasover，ataboutthreeinthemorning，MissTerryofferedmealifthomeinheropencarriage，sosheandherdaughterandIrodethroughtheemptystreetsinthegraylightformilesandmiles，as，ofcourse，IdidnotgetoutofsuchcompanyanysoonerthanIhadtodo。
TheyhadtakenIrving\'srobeofcardinalredandmadeitintocloaks，andtheylookedveryoddandeeriewiththeiryellowhairandredcapes，andtalkingasfastastheycould。
DICK。
CHAPTERVIII
CENTRALANDSOUTHAMERICA
AboutJanuary1，1895，RichardaccompaniedbyhisfriendsSomersSomersetandLloydC。Griscom，afterwardourministertoTokioandambassadortoBrazilandItaly，startedoutonaleisurelytripofSouthandCentralAmerica。Withnoverydefiniteitinerary，theysailedfromNewOrleans，bentonhavingagoodtime，andasmanyadventuresaspossible，whichRichardwastodescribeinaseriesofarticles。Theseappearedlateroninavolumeentitled\"ThreeGringosinVenezuela。\"
January，1895。
DEARFAM:
OnboardBreakwateratanchor。YouwillbepleasedtohearthatIamwritingthisinafinestateofperspirationinspiteofthefactthatIhavelightweightflannels，nounderclothesandallthewindowsopen。Itisgoingtostormandthenitwillbecooler。Wehavehadabullytimesofaralthoughthetoughtimeisstilltocome，thatwillbegoingfromPuertoCorteztoTegucigalpa。AtBelizetheGovernortreateduscharminglyandgaveusorderliesandlaunchesandlunchesandadviceandmeafinesubjectforashortstory。
FornothinghasstruckmeassosadlatelyasdidSirAnthonyMoloneyK。C。M。G。watchingusgoofflaughingandjokinginhisgildedbargetowhereverwepleasedandleavinghimstandingaloneonhislawnwithsomepaperstosignandthenadinnertete-a-tetewithhisSecretaryandsoontotheendofhislife。ItwaspathetictohearhimlistentoallthegossipfromtheoutsideworldandtoseehowwepleasedhimwhenwetoldhimweweregettingmorebaldthanhewasandthathewouldmakeafineappearanceintheRowathispresentweight。
HehadnotheardofTrilby!!
WestruckabeautifulplacetodaycalledLivingstonwherewewentashoreandphotographedthearmyinwhichtherewasnoboyolderthaneighteenandmostofthemunderten。ItwasquitelikeAfrica，thehomeswereallthatchedandthechildrenallnakedandthewomenmostlyso。Wetooklotsofphotographsandgotonmostexcellentlywiththenativeswhothoughtwewereasfunnyaswethoughtthem。Almosteveryplacewegowordhasbeensentaheadandagentsandconsulsandcustomhousechapscomeouttomeetmeandaskwhattheycando。ThisisverygoodandkeepsGriscomandSomersetinaproperframeofawe。ButseriouslyIcouldnotaskforbettercompanions，theyarebothenormouslywellinformedandpoliteandfulloffun。ThenighttheGovernoraskedSomerstodinneranddidnotaskuswewaitedupforhimandthenhunghimoutoverthesideoftheboatabovethesharksuntilhesworehewouldnevergoawayfromusagain。GriscomismoreaggravatinglyleisurelybuthehasamostaudacioushumorandtalkstothenativesinawaythatfillsthemwithpleasurebutwhichnearlymakesSomersandIexposethewholepartybylaughing。TodaywelieheretakinginbanannasandtomorrowI
willseeConrad，Conrad，Conrad!!SendthistotheConsul。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
SANPEDRO——SULA——February，1895。
MYDEARFAMILY:
TheafternoonofthedaywewereinPuertoCortezthemanofwarAtlantasteamedintothelittleharborandweallcheeredandthelotterypeopleranuptheAmericanflag。ThenIandtheotherswentouttoherasfastaswecouldberowedandIwentoverthesideandthesurpriseoftheofficerswasverygreat。TheycalledSomersandGriscomtocomeupandwespentthedaythere。TheywereamuchyoungerandmoreamusinglotoffellowsthanthoseontheMinneapolisandtreatedusmostkindly。Itwasabeautifulboatandeachofusconfessedtofeelingquitetemptedtogobackagaintocivilizationafteronedayonher。TheirboathadtouchedatTangierandsotheyclaimedthatshewastheonemeantintheExiles。TheytoldmethattheguideIsaacCohenwhomI
mentionedinHarper\'sWeeklycarriesitaroundasanadvertisementandwantedtoshipwiththemascabinboy。WeleftthenextdayontherailroadandtheboysfindingthattwonegroessatonthecowcatchertothrowsandontherailsinslipperyplacesbribedthemfortheirplacesandIsatonthesandbox。Inevertookamorebeautifuldrive。Wedidnotgofasterthananordinaryhorsecarbutstillitwasexcitingandtheviewsandvistaswonderful。
Sometimeswewentforahalfmileunderarchesofcocoanutpalmsandastraightbroadleafedpalmcalledthemanacathatrisesinseparateleavessixtyfeetfromtheground。ImagineapalmsuchasweputinpotsatweddingsandteasashighasHolyTrinityChurchandhundredsandhundredsofthem。ThecountryisverylikeCubabutmoreluxuriantineveryway。Therearesometreeswithmarbleliketrunksandgreatbranchescoveredwithoriolenestsandahundredoriolesflyinginandoutofthemorelseplasteredwithorchids。IfBillyFurnessweretoseeinwhatabundancetheygrewhewouldbequitemad。Itisagreatpityhedidnotcomewithus。ThislittletownistheterminusoftherailroadandwehavebeenherefourdayswhileJeffstheAmericanColonelintheHondureanArmyisgettingouroutfit。
Ithasbeenverypleasantandweareinnohurrywhichisagoodthingforus。Itisamostexcitingcountryandasdespoticasalluncivilizedandunstablegovernmentsmustbe。
ButwehavecalledontheGovernorofthedistrictwithJeffsandhegaveusaveryfinelettertoallcivilandunmilitaryauthoritiesinthedistrictcallingonthemtoaidandprotectusineveryway。IamgettingawfullygoodmaterialformynovelandforhalfadozenstoriestobootonlyIamsurprisedtofindhowtruemynovelwastowhatreallyexistshere。
Abouttenyearsago——disappeared，havingasIthoughtdrunkhimselftodeath。HecameuptomehereonmyarrivalwithalotofwaybillsinhishandandIlearnedthathehadbeenemployedinthisholeinthegroundbyarailroadfortwoyears。IrememberedmeetinghimatNewportwhenIwasstillatLehigh，andlastnightheaskedmetodinnerandtoldmewhathehadbeendoingwhichincludedeverythingfromactinginSouthAmericatoblackingbootsinAustralia。HisbosswasaPittsburghengineerwhoisapparentlylickinghimintoshapeandwhotoldmetotellhisfatherthathehadstoppeddrinkingabsolutely。Hiscolored\"missus\"satwithusatthetableandplayedwithabeetleduringthethreehoursIstayedthereduringwhichtimeheaskedmeabout——whohesaidhadruinedhim。Hetoldmeofhow——haddoneandsaidthis，andthecontrasttothethatchedroofandthemudfloorandtheScotchAmericanengineerandthemulattogirlwasratherstriking。IneverhadmoreluckinanytripthanIhavehadonthisoneandtheluckofR。H。D。ofwhichIwasfondofboastingseemstoholdgood。Thatmanofwar，forinstance，wastheonlyAmericanonethathadtouchedatPuertoCortezinTENyearsanditcamethedaywedidandleftthedaywedid。WesawabiglithographofEddieSotherninapalmhutheresowewentbeforeanotaryandsworetoitandhadthreesealsputonthepaperandsentithimasajoke。Westarttomorrowthe22ndsoyouseewearebehindourscheduleandIsupposeyoupeopleareallworriedtodeathaboutus。WewillbemuchlongerthansixdaysonourwaytoTegucigalpaaswearegoingshootingandalsotopayourrespectstoBograntheex-presidentandthemanwhoisgettingupthenextrevolution。ButwetakecaretotelleveryonewearetravellingforpleasureandaregreatadmirersofBonillathepresentpresident。SomersandIaregettingonfamously。Heisaveryfineboywithagreatsenseofhumorandapparentlyveryfondofme。WehadfivemencountingJeffswhowecallourmilitaryattacheandCharwoodandfourdriversandelevenmulessoitisquiteanoutfit。InEcuadorwithonemoremanitwouldconstitutearevolution。
DICK。
DEARFAM:SANTABARBARA——January25，1895。
WearenotatTegucigalpaasyouobservebuttravellinginthiscountry。\"AsyouseeitonBroadway\"andasyouseeitherearetwodifferentthings。WehavehadfivedaysofitsofarandrestedheretodayinordertopayourrespectstoGeneralBograntheex-presidentoftheRepublic。ItisstillsixdaystoTegucigalpa。ThetripacrossCentralAmericawillcertainlybeoneofthemostinterestingexperiencesofmylife。ItisthemostbeautifulcountryIhaveseenandthemostbarbarous。
Itisalsothehottestandthemostinsect-iousandthedirtiest。Thislatterseemsalittleviewtotakeofitbutitmeansagreatdealastheinsectspreventyourdoinganythinginanaturalway；asforinstancesittingonthegrassorsleepingonthegroundorhuntingthroughthebushes。
Itisprettymuchasyouimagineitisfromwhatyouhaveread，thatcoversit，andIhavediscoverednothingnewbycomingtoseeit。Ionlyverifywhatothershaveseen。ThepeoplearemostuninterestingchieflybecausetheyaresurlytoAmericansanddonotmakeyoufeelwelcome。IdonotmeanthatIdidnotdowelltocomeforIammoregladthatIdidthanIcansayonlyIhavenot，asIhavebeenabletodobefore，foundsomethingthatothershavenotseen。IneverexpecttoseesuchacountryagainunlessinAfrica。Ifyouleavethepathfortenyardsyouwouldnevergetbacktoitexceptbyaccidentandyoucouldnotgetthatfarawayunlessyoucutyourselfatrail。InsomeplacesthemailroutewhichwefollowandoverwhichthemailiscarriedonthebacksofrunnersiscutintherockandwegodownstepsasevenasthoseoftheCityHallandforhourswetraveloverroughrocksandstonesandapathsonarrowthatyourkneescatchinthevinesattheside。Themulesarewonderfullysurefootedandneverslipalthoughtheyareverylittle，andIamprettyheavy。Theheatissomethingawful。Itbakesyouandwilldryyourpithhelmetintenminutesafteryouhavesoakeditinwater。Butthesceneryismagnificent，sometimeswerideabovethecloudsandlookdownintovalleysstretchingfiftymilesawayandseethebuzzardshalfamilebelowus。Thenwegothroughforestsofmanacapalmsthatspreadoutonasinglestemsidewaysandformarchesoverourheadswiththeleaveshanginginfrontofuslikeportiersorwecrossgreatplainsofgrassandcactusandrock。Thebestfunisthebathswetakeinthemountainstreams。Theyarealmostascoolasonecouldwishandweshoottherapidsandlieunderthewaterfallsandcomeoutwithallthesorenessrubbedoutofusasthoughwehadbeenmassaged。Wewentshootingfortwodaysbutastheyhadnodogswedidnotdomuch。Igotthebestshotofthetripandmissedit。ItwasalargewildcatandheturnedhissidefullonbutIfiredoverhim。SomersandIspentmostofthetimefiringchanceshotsatalligators，buttheynevergaveusagoodchanceasthebirdswarnthemwhentheyareindanger。
OneoldfellowfifteenfeetlongbeatusforsometimeandthenSomersandIstartedacrosstherivertocatchhimasleep。ItwaslikethetakingofLungtepen。Wehadourmoneybeltsaroundournecksandourshoesinonehandandriflesintheother。TherapidsranveryfastandthelastI
sawofSomersethewassittingonthebankhehadstartedfromcountingoutwetbanknotesandblowingthewateroutofhisgunbarrel。IgotacrossallrightbystickingmyfeetbetweenrocksandputonmyshoesandcrawledupontheoldJohnnie。Hesmeltofmusksostrongthatyoucouldhavefoundhiminthedark。Ihad，abeautifulshotathimatfiftyyardsbutIwastoogreedyandranaroundsomerockstogetnearerandheheardmeanddived。Ishotamacaw，oneofthoseovergrownparrotswithtailfeathersthreefeetfromtiptotip。
IgothimwitharifleandasGriscomhadgothiswithashotgunIcameoutallrightasamarksmanalthoughIwasverysoreatmissingthewildcat。WesleepinhatsandwesleeppreciouslittleforthedogsandpigsandinsectsallhelptokeepusawakeandIcannotgetusedtoahammock。Thenativebedsaremadeofmattingsuchastheyputoverteachests，orbull\'shidestretched。LastnightIsleptinahutwithawomanandherthreedaughtersalloverfifteenandtheysatupandwatchedmeprepareforbedwithgreatinterest。IwouldnothavemissedthistripforanyotherIknow。Iwantedtoroughitandwe\'verougheditandwewillhaveanotherweekofittoo。
Wehavesomeremarkablephotographsandthearticleoughttobemostinteresting。Bogranprovedtobeaveryhandsomeandremarkablemanandwehadaveryinterestingtalkwithhim。
FromTegucigalpawewillprobablygodirectlytoVenezuelaacrosstheIsthmusofPanamaandnotvisitanotherRepublic。
Wehavealltravelledtoomuchtocaretoduplicate，andthatiswhatwewouldbedoingbyremaininglongerinCentralAmerica。AmonthofitwillbeenoughofitandwewillnotgetawayfromAmapalabeforethefirstofFebruary。WeareallwellandhappyanddirtyandsingandlaughandtellstoriesandlistentoGriscom\'sanecdotesofthearistocracyaswepickourwayalong。SogoodbyeandGodblessyouall。
DICK。
TEGUCIGALPA，CENTRALAMERICA。
Februarylst，1895。
4th，1895。
DEARFAMILY