第25章
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  Guinea-fowlabounded,butnograincouldbepurchased,forthepeoplehadcultivatedonlytheholmesalongthebankswithmaizeandpumpkins。Timeenoughhadnotelapsedsincetheslave-trader\'sinvasion,anddestructionoftheirstores,forthemtoraisecropsofgrainontheadjacentlands。Todealwiththemforafewheadsofmaizewasthehungrybargainingwiththefamished,sowehastenedonsouthwardsasfastastheexcessiveheatwouldallowus。Itwasimpossibletomarchinthemiddleoftheday,theheatwassointolerable;andwecouldnotgoonatnight,because,ifwehadchancedtomeetanyoftheinhabitants,weshouldhavebeentakenformarauders。

  Wehadnowthundereveryafternoon;butwhileoccasionalshowersseemedtofallatdifferentparts,nonefellonus。Theairwasdeliciouslyclear,andrevealedallthelandscapecoveredeverywherewithforest,andboundedbybeautifulmountains。Onthe31stOctoberwereachedtheMukuru-Madse,afterhavingtravelled660geographicalmiles,or760Englishmilesinastraightline。Thiswasaccomplishedinfifty-fivetravellingdays,twelvemilesperdiemonanaverage。Ifthenumerousbendingsandwindings,andupsanddownsofthepathscouldhavebeenmeasuredtoo,thedistancewouldhavebeenfoundatleastfifteenmilesaday。

  ThenightwesleptattheMukuru-Madseitthunderedheavily,but,asthishadbeenthecaseeveryafternoon,andnorainhadfollowed,weerectednoshelter,butduringthisnightapouringraincameon。

  Whenverytiredamanfeelsdeterminedtosleepinspiteofeverything,andthesoundofdroppingwaterissaidtobeconducivetoslumber,butthatdoesnotrefertoanAfricanstorm。If,whenhalfasleepinspiteofaheavyshoweronthebackofthehead,heunconsciouslyturnsonhisside,thedropsfromthebranchesmakesuchcapitalshotsintohisear,thatthebrainringsagain。

  Wewereoffnextmorning,the1stofNovember,assoonasthedaydawned。Inwalkingaboutsevenmilestotheship,ourclotheswerethoroughlydriedbythehotsun,andanattackoffeverfollowed。Werelatethislittleincidenttopointoutthealmostcertainconsequenceofgettingwetinthisclimate,andallowingtheclothestodryontheperson。Evenifwewalkinthemorningswhenthedewisonthegrass,andonlygetourfeetandlegswet,averyuneasyfeelingandpartialfeverwithpainsinthelimbsensue,andcontinuetillthemarchonwardsbathestheminperspiration。HadBishopMackenziebeenawareofthis,which,beforeexperiencealonehadtaughtus,entailedmanyaseverelesson,weknownoearthlyreasonwhyhisvaluablelifemightnothavebeenspared。ThedifferencebetweengettingtheclothessoakedinEnglandandinAfricaisthis:

  inthecoldclimatethepatientiscompelled,or,atanyrate,warned,bydiscomforttoresortatoncetoachangeofraiment;whileinAfricaitiscoolingandratherpleasanttoallowtheclothestodryontheperson。AMissionaryinproportionashepossessesanathleticframe,hardenedbymanlyexercises,inadditiontohisotherqualifications,willexcelhimwhoisnotfavouredwithsuchbodilyendowments;butinahotclimateefficiencymainlydependsonhusbandingtheresources。Hemustneverforgetthat,inthetropics,heisanexoticplant。

  CHAPTERXV。

  Confidenceofnatives——BishopTozer——WithdrawaloftheMissionparty——

  TheEnglishleave——HazardousvoyagetoMosambique——Dr。Livingstone\'svoyagetoBombay——ReturntoEngland。

  Weweredelightedandthankfultofindallthoseleftattheshipingoodhealth,andthatfromtheemploymentsinwhichtheyhadbeenoccupiedtheyhadsufferedlessfromfeverthanusualduringourabsence。Mycompanion,ThomasWard,thesteward,afterhavingperformedhispartinthemarchrightbravely,rejoinedhiscomradesstrongerthanhehadeverbeenbefore。

  AnAjawachief,namedKapeni,hadsomuchconfidenceintheEnglishnamethathe,withmostofhispeople,visitedtheship;andassertedthatnothingwouldgivehiscountrymengreaterpleasurethantoreceivetheassociatesofBishopMackenzieastheirteachers。Thisdeclaration,coupledwiththesubsequentconductoftheAjawa,wasverygratifying,inasmuchasitwasclearthatnoumbragehadbeentakenatthecheckwhichtheBishophadgiventotheirslaving;theirconscienceshadtoldthemthatthecoursehehadpursuedwasright。

  Whenwereturned,thecontrastbetweenthevegetationaboutMuazi\'sandthatneartheshipwasverystriking。Wehadcomesoquicklydown,thatwhileontheplateauinlatitude12degreesS。,theyoungleaveshadinmanycasespassedfromthepinkorothercolourtheyhaveonfirstcomingouttothelightfreshgreenwhichsucceedsit,here,onthebordersof16degreesS。,orfrom150to180milesdistant,thetreeswerestillbare,thegreycolourofthebarkpredominatingovereveryotherhue。Thetreesinthetropicsherehaveaverywell-markedannualrest。OntheRovumaeven,whichisonlyabouttendegreesfromtheequator,inSeptembertheslopesupfromtheriversomesixtymilesinlandwereofalightashy-greycolour;andonascendingthem,wefoundthatthemajorityofthetreeswerewithoutleaves;thoseofthebambooevenlaycrispandcrumpledontheground。Asthesunisusuallyhotbyday,eveninthewinter,thiswitheringprocessmaybeowingtothecoolnights;

  AfricadifferingsomuchfromCentralIndiainthefactthat,inAfrica,howeverhotthedaymaybe,theairgenerallycoolsdownsufficientlybytheearlymorningwatchestorenderacoveringorevenablanketagreeable。

  Thefirstfortnightafterourreturntotheshipwasemployedinthedelightfulprocessofresting,toappreciatewhichamanmusthavegonethroughgreatexertions。Inourcasethemusclesofthelimbswereashardasboards,andnotanounceoffatexistedonanypartofthebody。Wenowhadfrequentshowers;but,thesebeingonlytheearlierrains,theresultontheriseoftheriverwasbutafewinches。Theeffectoftheserainsonthesurroundingscenerywasbeautifulintheextreme。Alltraceofthedryseasonwassoonobliterated,andhillsandmountainsfrombasetosummitwerecoveredwithamantleoflivinggreen。Thesunpassedusonhiswaysouthwithoutcausingaflood,soallourhopesofareleasewerecentredonhisreturntowardstheEquator,when,asarule,thewatersofinundationaremadetoflow。Uptothistimetherainsdescendedsimplytowatertheearth,fillthepools,andmakereadyforthegrandoverflowforwhichwehadstilltowaitsixweeks。Itisofnousetoconcealthatwewaitedwithmuchchagrin;forhadwenotbeenforcedtoreturnfromthehighlandswestofNyassawemighthavevisitedLakeBemba;butunavailingregretsarepooremploymentforthemind;sowebanishedthemtothebestofourpower。

  AboutthemiddleofDecember,1863,wewereinformedthatBishopMackenzie\'ssuccessor,afterspendingafewmonthsonthetopofamountainaboutashighasBenNevisinScotland,atthemouthoftheShire,wheretherewerefewornopeopletobetaught,haddeterminedtoleavethecountry。ThisunfortunatedecisionwascommunicatedtousatthesametimethatsixoftheboysrearedbyBishopMackenzieweresentbackintoheathenism。Theboysweretakentoaplaceaboutsevenmilesfromtheship,butimmediatelyfoundtheirwayuptous。

  Wetoldthemthatiftheywishedtoremaininthecountrytheyhadbettersoarrangeatonce,forweweresoontoleave。Thesequelwillshowtheirchoice。

  AssoonasthedeathofBishopMackenziewasknownattheCape,Dr。

  Gray,theexcellentBishopthere,proceededatoncetoEngland,withaviewofsecuringanearlyappointmentofanotherheadtotheMission,whichinitsoriginowedsomuchtohiszealforthespreadofthegospelamongtheheathen,andwhoseinterestshehadcontinuallyatheart。Aboutthemiddleof1862weheardthatDr。

  Gray\'seffortshadbeensuccessful,andthatanotherclergymanwouldsoontaketheplaceofourdepartedfriend。ThispleasingintelligencewasexceedinglycheeringtotheMissionaries,andgratifyingalsotothemembersoftheExpedition。Aboutthebeginningof1863thenewBishoparrivedatthemouthoftheriverinaman-of-war,andaftersomedelayproceededinland。TheBishopoftheCapehadtakenavoyagehomeatconsiderableinconveniencetohimself,forthesoleobjectofpromotingthisMissiontotheheathen;anditwassomehowexpectedthatthemanhewouldsecurewouldbeanimageofhimself;andwemustsay,thatwhateverothers,fromtherepresentationsthathavegoneabroad,maythinkofhischaracter,weinvariablyfoundDr。Graytobeatrue,warm-heartedpromoterofthewelfareofhisfellow-men;amanwhosecourageandzealhaveprovokedverymanytogoodworks。

  ItwashopedthatthepresenceofanewheadtotheMissionwouldinfusenewenergyandlifeintothesmallbandofMissionaries,whoserankshadbeenthinnedbydeath;andwho,thoughdiscouragedbythedisasterswhichtheslavewarandfaminehadinduced,andalsodispiritedbythedepressinginfluencesofalowandunhealthypositionintheswampyShireValley,wereyetbravelyholdingouttillthemuch-neededmoralandmaterialaidshouldarrive。

  WebelievethatweareutteringthesentimentsofmanydevoutmembersofdifferentsectionsofChristians,whenwesay,itwasapitythattheMissionoftheUniversitieswasabandoned。Thegroundhadbeenconsecratedinthetruestsensebythelivesofthosebravemenwhofirstoccupiedit。InbarejusticetoBishopMackenzie,whowasthefirsttofall,itmustbesaid,thattherepudiationofallhehaddone,andthesuddenabandonmentofallthathadcostsomuchlifeandmoneytosecure,wasaseriouslineofconductforonesounversedinMissionaryoperationsashissuccessor,toinaugurate。

  ItwouldhavebeennomorethanfairthatBishopTozer,beforewindinguptheaffairsoftheMission,shouldactuallyhaveexaminedthehighlandsoftheUpperShire;hewouldthushavegratifiedtheassociatesofhispredecessor,whobelievedthatthehighlandshadneverhadafairtrial,andhewouldhavegainedfrompersonalobservationamoreaccurateknowledgeofthecountryandthepeoplethanhecouldpossiblyhavebecomepossessedofbyinformationgatheredchieflyonthecoast。Withthisexamination,ratherthanwithastayofafewmonthsonthehumid,drippingtopofmistyMorambala,weshouldhavefeltmuchmoresatisfied。

  InJanuary,1864,thenativesallconfidentlyassertedthatatnextfullmoontheriverwouldhaveitsgreatandpermanentflood。Ithadseveraltimesrisenasmuchasafoot,butfellagainassuddenly。

  Itwascuriousthattheirobservationcoincidedexactlywithours,thatthefloodofinundationhappenswhenthesuncomesoverheadonhiswaybacktotheEquator。Wementionthismoreminutelybecause,fromtheobservationofseveralyears,webelievethatinthiswaytheinundationoftheNileistobeexplained。Onthe19ththeShiresuddenlyroseseveralfeet,andwestartedatonce;andstoppingonlyforashorttimeatChibisa\'stobidadieutotheAjawaandMakololo,whohadbeenextremelyusefultousoflateinsupplyingmaizeandfreshprovisions,wehastenedonourwaytotheocean。Inordertokeepasteeragewayonthe\"Pioneer,\"wehadtogoquickerthanthestream,andunfortunatelycarriedawayherrudderinpassingsuddenlyroundabank。ThedelayrequiredfortherepairspreventedourreachingMorambalatillthe2ndofFebruary。

  Theflood-waterranintoamarshsomemilesabovethemountain,andbecameasblackasink;andwhenitreturnedagaintotheriveremittedsostronganeffluviumofsulphurettedhydrogen,thatonecouldnotforgetforaninstantthattheairwasmostoffensive。Thenativessaidthisstenchdidnotproducedisease。Wespentonenightinit,andsufferednoilleffects,thoughwefullyexpectedanattackoffever。Nextmorningeveryparticleofwhitepaintonbothshipswassodeeplyblackened,thatitcouldnotbecleanedbyscrubbingwithsoapandwater。Thebrasswasallturnedtoabronzecolour,andeventheironandropeshadtakenanewtint。Thisisanadditionalproofthatmalariaandoffensiveeffluviaarenotalwayscompanions。Wedidnotsuffermorefromfeverinthemangroveswamps,whereweinhaledsomuchoftheheavymouseysmellthatitwasdistinguishableintheodourofourshirtsandflannels,thanwedidelsewhere。

  Wetarriedinthefoulandblackeningemanationsfromthemarshbecausewehadagreedtoreceiveonboardaboutthirtypoororphanboysandgirls,andafewhelplesswidowswhomBishopMackenziehadattachedtohisMission。AllwhowereabletosupportthemselveshadbeenencouragedbytheMissionariestodosobycultivatingtheground,andtheynowformedalittlefreecommunity。Buttheboysandgirlswhowereonlyfromseventotwelveyearsofage,andorphanswithoutanyonetohelpthem,couldnotbeabandonedwithoutbringingodiumontheEnglishname。TheeffectofanoutcrybysomepersonsinEngland,whoknewnothingofthecircumstancesinwhichBishopMackenziewasplaced,andwhocertainlyhadnotgivenuptheirownrightofappealtotheswordofthemagistrate,was,thatthenewheadoftheMissionhadgonetoextremesintheoppositedirectionfromhispredecessor;notevenprotestingagainsttheonemonstrousevilofthecountry,theslave-trade。WebelievedthatweoughttoleavetheEnglishnameinthesamegoodreputeamongthenativesthatwehadfoundit;andinremovingthepoorcreatures,whohadlivedwithMackenzieaschildrenwithafather,toalandwheretheeducationhebeganwouldbecompleted,wehadtheaidandsympathyofthebestofthePortuguese,andofthewholepopulation。Thedifferencebetweenshippingslavesandreceivingthesefreeorphansstruckusastheycameonboard。Assoonaspermissiontoembarkwasgiven,therushintotheboatnearlyswampedher——theireagernesstobesafeonthe\"Pioneer\'s\"deckhadtoberepressed。

  BishopTozerhadalreadyleftforQuillimanewhenwetookthesepeopleandthelastoftheUniversities\'MissionariesonboardandproceededtotheZambesi。Itwasinhighflood。Wehavealwaysspokenofthisriverasifatitslowest,forfearlestweshouldconveyanexaggeratedimpressionofitscapabilitiesfornavigation。

  Insteadoffromfivetofifteenfeet,itwasnowfromfifteentothirtyfeet,ormore,deep。Allthesandbanksandmanyoftheislandshaddisappeared,andbeforeusrolledarivercapable,asoneofournavalfriendsthought,ofcarryingagunboat。Someofthesandyislandsareannuallysweptaway,andthequantitiesofsandcarrieddownareprodigious。

  Theprocessbywhichadelta,extendingeightyoronehundredmilesfromthesea,hasbeenformedmaybeseengoingonatthepresentday——thecoarserparticlesofsandaredrivenoutintotheocean,justinthesamewayasweseetheyareoverbanksinthebedsoftorrents。Thefinerportionsarecaughtbythereturningtide,and,accumulatingbysuccessiveebbsandflows,become,withthedecayingvegetation,arrestedbythemangroveroots。TheinfluenceofthetideinbringingbackthefinerparticlesgivestheseanearthemouthoftheZambesiacleanandsandybottom。Thisprocesshasbeengoingonforages,andasthedeltahasenlargedeastwards,theriverhasalwayskeptachannelforitselfbehind。Whereverweseeanislandallsand,orwithonlyonelayerofmudinit,weknowitisoneofrecentformation,andthatitmaybesweptawayatanytimebyaflood;whilethoseislandswhichareallofmudarethemoreancient,havinginfactexistedeversincethetimewhentheebbingandflowingtidesoriginallyformedthemaspartsofthedelta。Thismudresiststheactionoftheriverwonderfully。Itisakindofclayonwhichtheerodingpowerofwaterhaslittleeffect。Weremapsmade,showingwhichbanksandwhichislandsareliabletoerosion,itwouldgofartosettlewheretheannualchangeofthechannelwouldtakeplace;and,wereafewstakesdriveninyearbyyeartoguidethewaterinitscourse,therivermightbemadeofconsiderablecommercialvalueinthehandsofanyenergeticEuropeannation。NocanalorrailwaywouldeverbethoughtofforthispartofAfrica。AfewimprovementswouldmaketheZambesiareadymeansoftransitforallthetradethat,withapopulationthinnedbyPortugueseslaving,willeverbedevelopedinourday。Herethereisnoinstanceonrecordofthenativesflockinginthousandstothecolony,astheydidatNatal,andeventotheArabsonLakeNyassa。

  ThiskeepingaloofrendersitunlikelythatinPortuguesehandstheZambesiwilleverbeofanymorevaluetotheworldthanithasbeen。

  AfterahurriedvisittoSenna,inordertosettlewithMajorSicardandSenhorFerraoforsupplieswehaddrawnthenceafterthedepopulationoftheShire,weproceededdowntotheZambesi\'smouth,andwerefortunateinmeeting,onthe13thFebruary,withH。M。S。

  \"Orestes。”ShewasjoinednextdaybyH。M。S。\"Ariel。”The\"Orestes\"

  tookthe\"Pioneer,\"andthe\"Ariel\"the\"LadyNyassa\"intow,forMosambique。Onthe16thacircularstormprovedthesea-goingqualitiesofthe\"LadyoftheLake;\"foronthisdayahurricanestruckthe\"Ariel,\"anddrovehernearlybackwardsatarateofsixknots。Thetowinghawserwoundroundherscrewandstoppedherengines。Nosoonerhadsherecoveredfromthisshockthanshewasagaintakenabackontheothertack,anddrivenstemontowardsthe\"LadyNyassa\'s\"broadside。Wewhowereonboardthelittlevesselsawnochanceofescapeunlessthecrewofthe\"Ariel\"shouldthinkofheavingropeswhenthebigshipwentoverus;butsheglidedpastourbow,andwebreathedfreelyagain。Wehadnowanopportunityofwitnessingman-of-warseamanship。CaptainChapman,thoughhisenginesweredisabled,didnotthinkofabandoningusintheheavygale,butcrossedthebowsofthe\"LadyNyassa\"againandagain,droppingacaskwithalinebywhichtogiveusanotherhawser。Wemightneverhavepickeditup,hadnotaKroomanjumpedoverboardandfastenedasecondlinetothecask;andthenwedrewthehawseronboard,andwereagainintow。Duringthewholetimeofthehurricanethelittlevesselbehavedadmirably,andnevershippedasinglegreensea。Whenthe\"Ariel\"pitchedforwardswecouldseealargepartofherbottom,andwhenhersternwentdownwecouldseeallherdeck。

  Aboat,hungathersterndavits,wasstoveinbythewaves。Theofficersonboardthe\"Ariel\"thoughtthatitwasalloverwithus:

  weimaginedthattheyweresufferingmorethanwewere。Nauticalmenmaysupposethatthiswasaseriousstormonlytolandsmen;butthe\"Orestes,\"whichwasonceinsight,andatanothertimefortymilesoffduringthesamegale,spliteighteensails;andthe\"Pioneer\"hadtobelightenedofpartsofasugar-millshewascarrying;herround-

  housewaswashedaway,andthecabinwasfrequentlyknee-deepinwater。Whenthe\"Orestes\"cameintoMosambiqueharbourninedaysafterourarrivalthere,ourvessel,notbeinganchoredclosetothe\"Ariel,\"forwehadruninundertheleeofthefort,ledtothesurmiseonboardthe\"Orestes\"thatwehadgonetothebottom。

  CaptainChapmanandhisofficerspronouncedthe\"LadyNyassa\"tobethefinestlittlesea-boattheyhadeverseen。Shecertainlywasacontrasttothe\"Ma-Robert,\"anddidgreatcredittoherbuilders,TedandMacgregorofGlasgow。WecanbutregretthatshewasnotemployedontheLakeafterwhichshewasnamed,andforwhichshewasintendedandwassowelladapted。

  Whatstruckusmost,duringthetripfromtheZambesitoMosambique,wastheadmirablewayinwhichCaptainChapmanhandledthe\"Ariel\"intheheavyseaofthehurricane;thepromptitudeandskillwithwhich,whenwehadbrokenthreehawsers,otherswerepassedtousbytherapidevolutionsofabigshiproundalittleone;andthereadyapplianceofmeansshownincuttingthehawseroffthescrewninefeetunderwaterwithlongchiselsmadefortheoccasion;ataskwhichittookthreedaystoaccomplish。CaptainChapmanverykindlyinvitedusonboardthe\"Ariel,\"andweacceptedhishospitalityaftertheweatherhadmoderated。

  Thelittlevesselwashauledthroughandagainstthehugeseaswithsuchforcethattwohawsersmeasuringelevenincheseachincircumferenceparted。Manyoftheblowswereceivedfromthebillowsmadeeveryplatequiverfromstemtostern,andthemotionwassoquickthatwehadtoholdoncontinuallytoavoidbeingtossedfromonesidetotheotherorintothesea。TenofthelateBishop\'sflockwhomwehadonboardbecamesosickandhelplessthatdowhatwecouldtoaidthemtheyweresoverymuchinthewaythattheideabrokeinuponus,thattheclosepackingresortedtobyslaversisoneofthenecessitiesofthetraffic。Ifthisisso,itwouldaccountforthefactthatevenwhenthetradewaslegalthesameinjuriouscustomwascommon,ifnotuniversal。If,insteadoftensuchpassengers,wehadbeencarryingtwohundred,withthewinddrivingtherainandspray,asbynightitdid,nearlyashardashailagainstourfaces,andnothingwhatevertobeseentowindwardbuttheoccasionalgleamofthecrestofawave,andnosoundheardsavethewhistlingofthestormthroughtherigging,itwouldhavebeenabsolutelynecessaryfortheworkingoftheshipandsafetyofthewholethatthelivecargoshouldallhavebeenstoweddownbelow,whatevermighthavebeentheconsequences。

  Havingdeliveredthe\"Pioneer\"overtotheNavy,shewastoweddowntotheCapebyCaptainForsythofthe\"Valorous,\"andafterexaminationitwasdeclaredthatwithrepairstotheamountof300

  poundsshewouldbeasserviceableasever。ThoseoftheBishop\'sflockwhomwehadonboardwerekindlyallowedapassagetotheCape。

  Theboyswentinthe\"Orestes,\"andwearegladoftheopportunitytorecordourheartfeltthankstoCaptainsForsyth,Gardner,andChapmanforrenderingus,atvarioustimes,everyaidintheirpower。Mr。

  Wallerwentinthe\"Pioneer,\"andcontinuedhisgenerousservicestoallconnectedwiththeMission,whetherwhiteorblack,tilltheywerenolongerneeded;andwemustsaythathisconducttothemthroughoutwastrulynoble,andworthyofthehighestpraise。

  Afterbeachingthe\"LadyNyassa\"atCaboceira,oppositethehouseofaPortuguesegentlemanwellknowntoallEnglishmen,JoaodaCostaSoares,weputinbrinecocks,andcleanedandpaintedherbottom。

  Mr。SoaresappearedtoustohavebeenverymuchvilifiedinapublicationinEnglandafewyearsago;ourexperienceprovedhimtobeextremelykindandobliging。AllthemembersoftheExpeditionwhopassedMosambiquewereunanimousinextollinghisgenerosityand,fromthegeneraltestimonyofEnglishvisitorsinhisfavour,weverymuchregretthathischaracterwassogrievouslymisrepresented。TotheauthoritiesatMosambiqueourthanksarealsodueforobligingaccommodation;andthoughwedifferentirelyfromthePortugueseofficialsastothelightinwhichweregardtheslave-trade,wetrustourexposureofthesystem,inwhichunfortunatelytheyareengaged,willnotbeunderstoodasindicatinganywantofkindlyfeelingandgoodwilltothempersonally。SenhorCantoeCastro,whoarrivedatMosambiquetwodaysafterourdeparturetotaketheofficeofGovernor-General,waswellknowntousinAngola。WelivedtwomonthsinhishousewhenhewasCommandantofGolungoAlto;and,knowinghimthoroughly,believethatnobettermancouldhavebeenselectedfortheoffice。Wetrustthathisgoodprinciplesmayenablehimtowithstandthetemptationsofhisposition;butweshouldbesorrytohaveourstriedinadenofslave-traderswiththemiserablepittancehereceivesforhissupport。

  WhileatMosambique,aspeciesofPedaliacalledbyMr。SoaresDadeleira,andbythenatives——fromitsresemblancetoGerzilin,orsesamum——\"wildsesamum,\"wasshowntous,andissaidtobewellknownamongnativenursesasaverygentleandtastelessaperientforchildren。Afewleavesofitarestirredinacupofcoldwaterforeightornineseconds,andacoupleofteaspoonfulsoftheliquidgivenasadose。Theleavesformasortofmucilageinthewaterbylongerstirring,whichissaidtohavediureticpropertiesbesides。

  Onthe16thAprilwesteamedoutfromMosambique;and,thecurrentsbeinginourfavour,inaweekreachedZanzibar。Hereweexperiencedmuchhospitalityfromourcountrymen,andespeciallyfromDr。Seward,thenactingconsulandpoliticalagentforColonelPlayfair。

  Dr。SewardwasverydoubtfulifwecouldreachBombaybeforewhatiscalledthebreakofthemonsoontookplace。ThisbreakoccursusuallybetweentheendofMayandthe12thofJune。ThewindstillblowsfromAfricatoIndia,butwithsomuchviolence,andwithsuchamurkyatmosphere,thatfewornoobservationsforpositioncanbetaken。Wewere,however,atthetimeveryanxioustodisposeofthe\"LadyNyassa,\"and,theonlymarketwecouldreachbeingBombay,weresolvedtoruntheriskofgettingtherebeforethestormyperiodcommenced;and,aftertakingfourteentonsofcoalonboard,westartedonthe30thAprilfromZanzibar。

  OurcomplementconsistedofsevennativeZambesians,twoboys,andfourEuropeans;namely,onestoker,onesailor,onecarpenter,whosenameshavebeenalreadymentioned,andDr。Livingstone,asnavigator。

  The\"LadyNyassa\"hadshownherselftobeagoodsea-boat。Thenativeshadprovedthemselvescapitalsailors,thoughbeforevolunteeringnotoneofthemhadeverseenthesea。Theywerenotpickedmen,but,onpayingadozenwhomwehadinouremploymentforfifteenmonths,theyweretakenatrandomfromseveralhundredswhoofferedtoaccompanyus。Theirwagesweretenshillingspermensem,anditwascurioustoobserve,thatsoeagerweretheytodotheirduty,thatonlyoneofthemlaydownfromsea-sicknessduringthewholevoyage。Theytookinandsetsailverycleverlyinashorttime,andwouldclimboutalongaboom,reevearopethroughtheblock,andcomebackwiththeropeintheirteeth,thoughateachlurchtheperformerwasdippedinthesea。Thesailorandcarpenter,thoughanxioustodotheirutmost,hadaweek\'ssevereillnesseach,andwereunfitforduty。

  Itispleasantenoughtotakethewheelforanhourortwo,orevenforawatch,butwhenitcomestobeforeveryalternatefourhours,itisutterlywearisome。Wesetourblackmentosteer,showingthemwhicharmofthecompassneedlewastobekepttowardsthevessel\'shead,andsoonthreeofthemcouldmanageverywell,andtheyonlyneededwatching。IngoinguptheEastCoasttotakeadvantageofthecurrentofonehundredmilesaday,wewouldfainhavegoneintotheJubaorWebbeRiver,themouthofwhichisonly15minutessouthoftheline,butweweretooshorthanded。WepasseduptoabouttendegreesnorthoftheEquator,andthensteamedoutfromthecoast。

  HereMaury\'swindchartshowedthatthecalm-belthadlongbeenpassed,butwewereinitstill;and,insteadofacurrentcarryingusnorth,wehadacontrarycurrentwhichboreuseverydayfourmilestothesouth。Westeamedaslongaswedared,knowingaswedidthatwemustusetheenginesonthecoastofIndia。

  Afterlosingmanydaystossingonthesilentsea,withinnumerabledolphins,flying-fish,andsharksaroundus,wehadsixdaysofstrongbreezes,thencalmsagaintriedourpatience;andthenearapproachofthatperiod,\"thebreakofthemonsoon,\"inwhichitwasbelievednoboatcouldlive,madeussometimesthinkourepitaphwouldbe\"LeftZanzibaron30thApril,1864,andnevermoreheardof。”Atlast,inthebeginningofJune,thechronometersshowedthatwewereneartheIndiancoast。Theblackmenbelieveditwastruebecausewetoldthemitwasso,butonlybegantodancewithjoywhentheysawsea-weedandserpentsfloatingpast。Theseserpentsarepeculiartotheseparts,andarementionedaspoisonousinthesailingdirections。Weventuredtopredictthatweshouldseelandnextmorning,andatmiddaythehighcoasthoveinsight,wonderfullylikeAfricabeforetherainsbegin。Thenahazecoveredalltheland,andaheavyswellbeattowardsit。Arockwasseen,andalatitudeshowedittobetheChoulerock。Makingthatafreshstarting-point,wesoonfoundthelight-ship,andthentheforestofmastsloomedthroughthehazeinBombayharbour。Wehadsailedover2500miles。

  Footnotes:

  {1}Aremedycomposedoffromsixtoeightgrainsofresinofjalap,thesameofrhubarb,andthreeeachofcalomelandquinine,madeupintofourpills,withtinctureofcardamoms,usuallyrelievedallthesymptomsinfiveorsixhours。Fourpillsareafulldoseforaman——

  onewillsufficeforawoman。Theyreceivedfromourmenthenameof\"rousers,\"fromtheirefficacyinrousingupeventhosemostprostrated。Whentheiroperationisdelayed,adessert-spoonfulofEpsomsaltsshouldbegiven。Quinineafterorduringtheoperationofthepills,inlargedoseseverytwoorthreehours,untildeafnessorcinchonismensued,completedthecure。Theonlycasesinwhich,wefoundourselvescompletelyhelpless,werethoseinwhichobstinatevomitingensued。

  {2}ThelateMr。Robson。

  {3}In1865,fouryearsaftertheseforebodingswerepenned,wereceivedintelligencethattheyhadallcometopass。Sekeletudiedinthebeginningof1864——acivilwarbrokeoutaboutthesuccessiontothechieftainship;alargebodyofthoseopposedtothelatechief\'suncle,Impololo,beingregent,departedwiththeircattletoLakeNgami;aninsurrectionbytheblacktribesfollowed;Impololowasslain,andthekingdom,ofwhich,underanablesagaciousmission,avastdealmighthavebeenmade,hassufferedtheusualfateofAfricanconquests。Thatfatewedeeplydeplore;for,whateverotherfaultstheMakololomightjustlybechargedwith,theydidnotbelongtotheclasswhobuyandselleachother,andthetribeswhohavesucceededthemdo。

  {4}ItwaswithsorrowthatwelearnedbyaletterfromMr。Moffat,in1864,thatpoorSekeletuwasdead。Aswillbementionedfurtheron,menweresentwithustobringupmoremedicine。TheypreferredtoremainontheShire,and,astheywerefreemen,wecoulddonomorethantryandpersuadethemtohastenbacktotheirchiefwithiodineandotherremedies。Theytooktheparcel,buttherebeingonlytworealMakololoamongthem,thesecouldneitherreturnthemselvesaloneorforcetheirattendantstoleaveapartofthecountrywheretheywereindependent,andcouldsupportthemselveswithease。Sekeletu,however,livedlongenoughtoreceiveandacknowledgegoodstothevalueof50pounds,sent,inlieuofthosewhichremainedinTette,byRobertMoffat,jun。,sincedead。

  {5}Abrother,webelieve,ofonewhoaccompaniedBurkeandWillisinthefamousbutunfortunateAustralianExpedition。

  {6}Genesis,chap。iii。,verses21and23,\"makecoatsofskins,andclothedthem\"——\"senthimforthfromthegardenofEdentotilltheground\"implyteaching。VideArchbishopWhately\'s\"HistoryofReligiousWorship。”JohnW。Parker,WestStrand,London,1849。

  {7}\"In1854thenativechurchatSierra-Leoneundertooktopayfortheirprimaryschools,andtherebyeffectedasavingtotheChurchMissionarySocietyof800poundsperannum。In1861thecontributionsofthisonesectionofnativeChristianshadamountedtoupwardsof10,000pounds。”——\"ManualofChurchMissionarySociety\'sAfricanMissions。”

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