第7章
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  CHAPTERIV。

  TheUpperShire——DiscoveryofLakeNyassa——Distressingexploration——

  ReturntoZambesi——Unpleasantvisitors——StartforSekeletu\'sCountryintheinterior。

  OurpathfollowedtheShireabovethecataracts,whichisnowabroaddeepriver,withbutlittlecurrent。Itexpandsinoneplaceintoalakelet,calledPamalombe,fulloffinefish,andtenortwelvemileslongbyfiveorsixinbreadth。Itsbanksarelow,andadensewallofpapyrusencirclesit。Onitswesternshorerisesarangeofhillsrunningnorth。OnreachingthevillageofthechiefMuana-Moesi,andaboutaday\'smarchdistantfromNyassa,weweretoldthatnolakehadeverbeenheardofthere;thattheRiverShirestretchedonaswesawitnowtoadistanceof\"twomonths,\"andthencameoutfrombetweenperpendicularrocks,whichtoweredalmosttotheskies。Ourmenlookedblankatthispieceofnews,andsaid,\"Letusgobacktotheship,itisofnousetryingtofindthelake。”\"Weshallgoandseethosewonderfulrocksatanyrate,\"saidtheDoctor。\"Andwhenyouseethem,\"repliedMasakasa,\"youwilljustwanttoseesomethingelse。ButthereISalake,\"rejoinedMasakasa,\"foralltheirdenyingit,foritisdowninabook。”Masakasa,havingunboundedfaithinwhateverwasinabook,wentandscoldedthenativesfortellinghimanuntruth。\"Thereisalake,\"saidhe,\"forhowcouldthewhitemenknowaboutitinabookifitdidnotexist?\"Theythenadmittedthattherewasalakeafewmilesoff。Subsequentinquiriesmakeitprobablethatthestoryofthe\"perpendicularrocks\"mayhavehadreferencetoafissure,knowntobothnativesandArabs,inthenorth-easternportionofthelake。Thewallsrisesohighthatthepathalongthebottomissaidtobeunderground。ItisprobablyacracksimilartothatwhichmadetheVictoriaFalls,andformedtheShireValley。

  Thechiefbroughtasmallpresentofmealintheevening,andsatwithusforafewminutes。Onleavingushesaidthathewishedwemightsleepwell。Scarcehadhegone,whenawildsadcryarosefromtheriver,followedbytheshriekingofwomen。Acrocodilehadcarriedoffhisprincipalwife,asshewasbathing。TheMakololosnatcheduptheirarms,andrushedtothebank,butitwastoolate,shewasgone。Thewailingofthewomencontinuedallnight,andnextmorningwemetotherscomingtothevillagetojoininthegeneralmourning。Theirgriefwasevidentlyheartfelt,aswesawthetearscoursingdowntheircheeks。Inreportingthismisfortunetohisneighbours,Muana-Moesisaid,\"thatwhitemencametohisvillage;

  washedthemselvesattheplacewherehiswifedrewwaterandbathed;

  rubbedthemselveswithawhitemedicinesoap;andhiswife,havinggonetobatheafterwards,wastakenbyacrocodile;hedidnotknowwhetherinconsequenceofthemedicineusedornot。”Thiswecouldnotfindfaultwith。Onourreturnwewereviewedwithawe,andallthemenfledatourapproach;thewomenremained;andthiselicitedtheremarkfromourmen,\"Thewomenhavetheadvantageofmen,innotneedingtodreadthespear。”Thepracticeofbathing,whichourfirstcontactwithChinsunse\'speopleledustobelievewasunknowntothenatives,weafterwardsfoundtobecommoninotherpartsoftheManganjacountry。

  WediscoveredLakeNyassaalittlebeforenoonofthe16thSeptember,1859。Itssouthernendisin14degrees25minutesS。Lat。,and35

  degrees30minutesE。Long。Atthispointthevalleyisabouttwelvemileswide。Therearehillsonbothsidesofthelake,butthehazefromburninggrasspreventedusatthetimefromseeingfar。AlongtimeafterourreturnfromNyassa,wereceivedaletterfromCaptainR。B。Oldfield,R。N。,thencommandingH。M。S。\"Lyra,\"withtheinformationthatDr。Roscher,anenterprisingGermanwhounfortunatelylosthislifeinhiszealforexploration,hadalsoreachedtheLake,butonthe19thNovemberfollowingourdiscovery;

  andonhisarrivalhadbeeninformedbythenativesthatapartyofwhitemenwereatthesouthernextremity。Oncomparingdates16thSeptemberand19thNovemberwewereabouttwomonthsbeforeDr。

  Roscher。

  ItisnotknownwhereDr。Roscherfirstsawitswaters;astheexactpositionofNusseewaonthebordersoftheLake,wherehelivedsometime,isunknown。Hewasthreedaysnorth-eastofNusseewa,andontheArabroadbacktotheusualcrossing-placeoftheRovuma,whenhewasmurdered。Themurdererswereseizedbyoneofthechiefs,senttoZanzibar,andexecuted。Heissaidtohavekepthisdiscoveriestohimself,withtheintentionofpublishinginEuropethewholeatonce,inasplendidbookoftravels。

  ThechiefofthevillageneartheconfluenceoftheLakeandRiverShire,anoldman,calledMosauka,hearingthatweweresittingunderatree,cameandkindlyinvitedustohisvillage。Hetookustoamagnificentbanyan-tree,ofwhichheseemedproud。Therootshadbeentraineddowntothegroundintotheformofagiganticarm-

  chair,withouttheseat。Fourofussleptinthespacebetwixtitsarms。Mosaukabroughtusapresentofagoatandbasketofmeal\"tocomfortourhearts。”Hetoldusthatalargeslaveparty,ledbyArabs,wereencampedcloseby。TheyhadbeenuptoCazembe\'scountrythepastyear,andwereontheirwayback,withplentyofslaves,ivory,andmalachite。Inafewminuteshalfadozenoftheleaderscameovertoseeus。Theywerearmedwithlongmuskets,and,toourmind,wereavillanous-lookinglot。Theyevidentlythoughtthesameofus,fortheyofferedseveralyoungchildrenforsale,but,whentoldthatwewereEnglish,showedsignsoffear,anddecampedduringthenight。OnourreturntotheKongone,wefoundthatH。M。S。\"Lynx\"

  hadcaughtsomeoftheseveryslavesinadhow;forawomantoldusshefirstsawusatMosauka\'s,andthattheArabshadfledforfearofanUNCANNYsortofBasungu。

  Thisisoneofthegreatslave-pathsfromtheinterior,otherscrosstheShirealittlebelow,andsomeonthelakeitself。Wemighthavereleasedtheseslavesbutdidnotknowwhattodowiththemafterwards。Onmeetingmen,ledinslave-sticks,theDoctorhadtobearthereproachesoftheMakololo,whoneverslave,\"Ay,youcallusbad,butareweyellow-hearted,likethesefellows——whywon\'tyouletuschokethem?\"Toliberateandleavethem,wouldhavedonebutlittlegood,asthepeopleofthesurroundingvillageswouldsoonhaveseizedthem,andhavesoldthemagainintoslavery。TheManganjachiefsselltheirownpeople,forwemetAjawaandslave-

  dealersinseveralhighlandvillages,whohadcertainlybeenencouragedtocomeamongthemforslaves。Thechiefsalwaysseemedashamedofthetraffic,andtriedtoexcusethemselves。\"Wedonotsellmany,andonlythosewhohavecommittedcrimes。”Asaruletheregulartradeissuppliedbythelowandcriminalclasses,andhencetheuglinessofslaves。Othersareprobablysoldbesidescriminals,asontheaccusationofwitchcraft。Friendlessorphansalsosometimesdisappearsuddenly,andnooneinquireswhathasbecomeofthem。Thetemptationtoselltheirpeopleispeculiarlygreat,asthereisbutlittleivoryonthehills,andoftenthechiefhasnothingbuthumanfleshwithwhichtobuyforeigngoods。TheAjawaoffercloth,brassrings,pottery,andsometimeshandsomeyoungwomen,andagreetotakethetroubleofcarryingoffbynightallthosewhomthechiefmaypointouttothem。Theygivefouryardsofcottonclothforaman,threeforawoman,andtwoforaboyorgirl,tobetakentothePortugueseatMozambique,Iboe,andQuillimane。

  TheManganjaweremoresuspiciousandlesshospitablethanthetribesontheZambesi。Theywereslowtobelievethatourobjectincomingintotheircountrywasreallywhatweprofessedittobe。Theynaturallyjudgeusbythemotiveswhichgovernthemselves。AchiefintheUpperShireValley,whosescaredlooksledourmentochristenhimKitlabolawaIshallbekilled,remarkedthatpartieshadcomebefore,withasplausibleastoryasours,and,afterafewdays,hadjumpedupandcarriedoffanumberofhispeopleasslaves。Wewerenotallowedtoentersomeofthevillagesinthevalley,norwouldtheinhabitantsevensellusfood;Zimika\'smen,forinstance,stoodattheentranceoftheeuphorbiahedge,anddeclaredweshouldnotpassin。Wesatdownunderatreecloseby。Ayoungfellowmadeanangryoration,dancingfromsidetosidewithhisbowandpoisonedarrows,andgesticulatingfiercelyinourfaces。Hewasstoppedinthemiddleofhisharanguebyanoldman,whoorderedhimtositdown,andnottalktostrangersinthatway;heobeyedreluctantly,scowlingdefiance,andthrustingouthislargelipsverysignificantly。Thewomenwereobservedleavingthevillage;and,suspectingthatmischiefmightensue,weproceededonourjourney,tothegreatdisgustofourmen。Theywereveryangrywiththenativesfortheirwantofhospitalitytostrangers,andwithus,becausewewouldnotallowthemtogive\"thethingsathrashing。”\"Thisiswhatcomesofgoingwithwhitemen,\"theygrowledout;\"hadwebeenwithourownchief,weshouldhaveeatentheirgoatsto-night,andhadsomeofthemselvestocarrythebundlesforusto-morrow。”Onourreturnbyapathwhichlefthisvillageonourright,Zimikasenttoapologize,sayingthat\"hewasill,andinanothervillageatthetime;itwasnotbyhisordersweweresentaway;hismendidnotknowthatwewereapartywishingthelandtodwellinpeace。”

  Wewerenotable,whenhasteningbacktothemenleftintheship,toremaininthevillagesbelongingtothischief;butthepeoplecameafteruswiththingsforsale,andinvitedustostop,andspendthenightwiththem,urging,\"Arewetohaveitsaidthatwhitepeoplepassedthroughourcountryandwedidnotseethem?\"Werestedbyarivulettogratifythesesight-seers。Weappeartothemtoberedratherthanwhite;and,thoughlightcolourisadmiredamongthemselves,ourclothingrendersusuncouthinaspect。Blueeyesappearsavage,andaredbeardhideous。Fromthenumbersofagedpersonswesawonthehighlands,andtheincreaseofmentalandphysicalvigourweexperiencedonourascentfromthelowlands,weinferredthattheclimatewassalubrious,andthatourcountrymenmightthereenjoygoodhealth,andalsobeofsignalbenefit,byleadingthemultitudeofindustriousinhabitantstocultivatecotton,buaze,sugar,andothervaluableproduce,toexchangeforgoodsofEuropeanmanufacture;atthesametimeteachingthem,bypreceptandexample,thegreattruthsofourHolyReligion。

  OurstayattheLakewasnecessarilyshort。Wehadfoundthatthebestplanforallayinganysuspicions,thatmightariseinthemindsofapeopleaccustomedonlytoslave-traders,wastopayahastyvisit,andthenleaveforawhile,andallowtheconvictiontoformamongthepeoplethat,thoughourcourseofactionwassodifferentfromthatofothers,wewerenotdangerous,butratherdisposedtobefriendly。Wehadalsoapartyatthevessel,andanyindiscretionontheirpartmighthaveprovedfataltothecharacteroftheExpedition。

  ThetradeofCazembeandKatanga\'scountry,andofotherpartsoftheinterior,crossesNyassaandtheShire,onitswaytotheArabport,Kilwa,andthePortugueseportsofIboeandMozambique。Atpresent,slaves,ivory,malachite,andcopperornaments,aretheonlyarticlesofcommerce。AccordingtoinformationcollectedbyColonelRigbyatZanzibar,andfromothersources,nearlyalltheslavesshippedfromtheabove-mentionedportscomefromtheNyassadistrict。Bymeansofasmallsteamer,purchasingtheivoryoftheLakeandRiverabovethecataracts,whichtogetherhaveashore-lineofatleast600miles,theslave-tradeinthisquarterwouldberenderedunprofitable,——foritisonlybytheivorybeingcarriedbytheslaves,thatthelatterdonoteatupalltheprofitsofatrip。Aninfluencewouldbeexertedoveranenormousareaofcountry,fortheMazituaboutthenorthendoftheLakewillnotallowslave-traderstopassroundthatwaythroughtheircountry。TheywouldbemostefficientalliestotheEnglish,andmightthemselvesbebenefitedbymoreintercourse。

  Asthingsarenow,thenativetradersinivoryandmalachitehavetosubmittoheavyexactions;andifwecouldgivethemthesamepriceswhichtheyatpresentgetaftercarryingtheirmerchandise300milesbeyondthistotheCoast,itmightinducethemtoreturnwithoutgoingfurther。Itisonlybycuttingoffthesuppliesintheinterior,thatwecancrushtheslave-tradeontheCoast。Theplanproposedwouldstoptheslave-tradefromtheZambesiononesideandKilwaontheother;andwouldleave,beyondthistract,onlythePortugueseportofInhambaneonthesouth,andaportionoftheSultanofZanzibar\'sdominiononthenorth,forourcruiserstolookafter。TheLakepeoplegrowabundanceofcottonfortheirownconsumption,andcansellitforapennyapoundorevenless。

  Water-carriageexistsbytheShireandZambesiallthewaytoEngland,withthesingleexceptionofaportageofaboutthirty-fivemilespasttheMurchisonCataracts,alongwhicharoadoflessthanfortymilescouldbemadeatatriflingexpense;anditseemsfeasiblethatalegitimateandthrivingtrademight,inashorttime,taketheplaceofthepresentunlawfultraffic。

  ColonelRigby,CaptainsWilson,Oldfield,andChapman,andallthemostintelligentofficersontheCoast,wereunanimousinthebelief,thatonesmallvesselontheLakewouldhavedecidedlymoreinfluence,anddomoregoodinsuppressingtheslave-trade,thanhalfadozenmen-of-warontheocean。Byjudiciousoperations,therefore,onasmallscaleinland,littleexpensewouldbeincurred,andtheEnglishslave-tradepolicyontheEastwouldhavethesamefairchanceofsuccess,asontheWestCoast。

  Afteraland-journeyoffortydays,wereturnedtotheshiponthe6thofOctober,1859,inasomewhatexhaustedcondition,arisingmorefromasortofpoisoning,thanfromtheusualfatigueoftravel。Wehadtakenalittlemulligatawneypaste,formakingsoup,incaseofwantoftimetocookotherfood。Lateoneafternoon,attheendofanunusuallylongmarch,wereachedMikena,nearthebaseofMountNjongonetothenorthofZomba,andthecookwasdirectedtouseacoupleofspoonfulsofthepaste;but,insteadofdoingso,heputinthewholepotful。Thesouptastedratherhot,butweaddedboiledricetoit,and,beingveryhungry,partookfreelyofit;and,inconsequenceoftheoverdose,weweredelayedseveraldaysinseveresuffering,andsomeofthepartydidnotrecovertillafterourreturntotheship。Ourillnessmaypartlyhavearisenfromanothercause。OnekindofcassavaJatrophamalignaisknowntobe,initsrawstate,poisonous,butbyboilingitcarefullyintwowaters,whichmustbethrownoff,thepoisonisextractedandthecassavarenderedfitforfood。Thepoisonoussortiseasilyknownbyraisingabitofthebarkoftheroot,andputtingthetonguetoit。A

  bittertasteshowspoison,butitisprobablethateventhesweetkindcontainsaninjuriousprinciple。Thesap,which,likethatofourpotatoes,isinjuriousasanarticleoffood,isusedinthe\"Pepper-pot\"oftheWestIndies,underthenameof\"Cassereep,\"asaperfectpreservativeofmeat。ThisjuiceputintoanearthenvesselwithalittlewaterandChilipepperissaidtokeepmeat,thatisimmersedinit,goodforagreatlengthoftime;evenforyears。Noironorsteelmusttouchthemixture,oritwillbecomesour。This\"Pepper-pot,\"ofwhichwefirstheardfromthelateArchbishopWhately,isamosteconomicalmeat-safeinahotclimate;anybeef,mutton,pork,orfowlthatmaybeleftatdinner,ifputintothemixtureandalittlefreshcassereepadded,keepsperfectly,thoughotherwisetheheatoftheclimateorflieswouldspoilit。Ourcook,however,boiledthecassavarootashewasinthehabitofcookingmeat,namely,byfillingthepotwithit,andthenpouringinwater,whichheallowedtostandonthefireuntilithadbecomeabsorbedandboiledaway。Thismethoddidnotexpelthepoisonouspropertiesoftheroot,orrenderitwholesome;for,notwithstandingoursystematiccautioninpurchasingonlytheharmlesssort,wesuffereddailyfromitseffects,anditwasonlyjustbeforetheendofourtripthatthisperniciousmodeofboilingitwasdiscoveredbyus。

  Inascending3000feetfromthelowlandstothehighlands,oronreachingthelowvalleyoftheShirefromthehighergrounds,thechangeofclimatewasverymarked。Theheatwasoppressivebelow,thethermometerstandingatfrom84degreesto103degreesintheshade;andourspiritswereasdullandlanguidastheyhadbeenexhilaratedontheheightsinatemperaturecoolerbysome20

  degrees。Thewateroftheriverwassometimes84degreesorhigher,whilstthatwehadbeendrinkinginthehillstreamswasonly65

  degrees。

  ItwasfoundnecessarytosendtwoofournumberacrossfromtheShiretoTette;andDr。Kirk,withguidesfromChibisa,andaccompaniedbyMr。Rae,theengineer,accomplishedthejourney。Wehadfoundthecountrytothenorthandeastsoverywellwatered,thatnodifficultywasanticipatedinthisrespectinamarchoflessthanahundredmiles;butonthisoccasionourfriendssufferedseverely。Thelittlewatertobehadatthistimeoftheyear,bydigginginthebedsofdrywatercourses,wassobrackishastoincreasethirst——someofthenativesindeedweremakingsaltfromit;

  andwhenatlongintervalsalessbrackishsupplywasfound,itwasnauseousandmuddyfromthefrequentvisitsoflargegame。Thetsetseabounded。Thecountrywaslevel,andlargetractsofitcoveredwithmopaneforest,theleavesofwhichaffordbutscantyshadetothebakedearth,sothatscarcelyanygrassgrowsuponit。

  Thesunwassohot,thatthemenfrequentlyjumpedfromthepath,inthevainhopeofcooling,foramoment,theirscorchedfeetunderthealmostshadelessbushes;andthenativewhocarriedtheprovisionofsaltporkgotlost,andcameintoTettetwodaysaftertherestoftheparty,withnothingbutthefibreofthemeatleft,thefat,meltedbytheblazingsun,havingallrundownhisback。ThispathwassoonmadeahighwayforslavingpartiesbyCaptainRaposo,theCommandant。Thejourneynearlykilledourtwoactiveyoungfriends;

  andwhattheslavesmusthavesincesufferedonitnoonecanconceive;butslavingprobablycanneverbeconductedwithoutenormoussufferingandlossoflife。

  Mankokwenowsentamessagetosaythathewishedustostopathisvillageonourwaydown。Hecameonboardonourarrivaltherewithahandsomepresent,andsaidthathisyoungpeoplehaddissuadedhimfromvisitingusbefore;butnowhewasdeterminedtoseewhateveryoneelsewasseeing。Abaldsquare-headedman,whohadbeenhisPrimeMinisterwhenwecameup,wasnowoutofoffice,andanotheroldman,whohadtakenhisplaceaccompaniedthechief。InpassingtheElephantMarsh,wesawninelargeherdsofelephants;theysometimesformedalinetwomileslong。

  Onthe2ndofNovemberweanchoredoffShamoara,andsenttheboattoSennaforbiscuitandotherprovisions。SenhorFerrao,withhiswontedgenerosity,gaveusapresentofabullock,whichhesenttousinacanoe。Wishingtoknowifasecondbullockwouldbeacceptabletous,heconsultedhisPortugueseandEnglishdictionary,andaskedthesailorinchargeifhewouldtakeANOTHER;butJack,mistakingthePortuguesepronunciationoftheletterh,replied,\"Ohno,sir,thankyou,Idon\'twantanOTTERintheboat,theyaresuchterriblebiters!\"

  Wehadtogroundthevesselonashallowsandbankeverynight;sheleakedsofast,thatindeepwatershewouldhavesunk,andthepumphadtobeworkedalldaytokeepherafloat。Heavyrainsfelldaily,producingtheusualinjuriouseffectsinthecabin;and,unabletowaitanylongerforourassociates,whohadgoneoverlandfromtheShiretoTette,werandowntheKongoneandbeachedherforrepairs。

  HerMajesty\'sship\"Lynx,\"Lieut。Berkeleycommanding,calledshortlyafterwardswithsupplies;thebar,whichhadbeenperfectlysmoothforsometimebefore,becameratherroughjustbeforeherarrival,sothatitwastwoorthreedaysbeforeshecouldcommunicatewithus。

  Twoofherboatstriedtocomeinonthesecondday,andoneofthem,mistakingthepassage,capsizedintheheavybreakersabreastoftheisland。Mr。Hunt,gunner,theofficerinchargeofthesecondboat,behavednobly,andbyhisskilfulandgallantconductsucceededinrescuingeveryoneofthefirstboat\'screw。Ofcoursethethingsthattheywerebringingtouswerelost,butwewerethankfulthatallthemenweresaved。Thelossofthemail-bags,containingGovernmentdespatchesandourfriends\'lettersforthepastyear,wasfeltseverely,aswewereonthepointofstartingonanexpeditionintotheinterior,whichmightrequireeightorninemonths;andtwentymonthsisawearytimetobewithoutnewsoffriendsandfamily。Intherepairingofourcrazycraft,wereceivedkindandefficientaidfromLieutenantBerkeley,andwewereenabledtoleaveforTetteonDecember16th。

  Wehadnowfrequentrains,andtheriverroseconsiderably;ourprogressupthestreamwasdistressinglyslow,anditwasnotuntilthe2ndofFebruary,1860,thatwereachedTette。Mr。Thorntonreturnedonthesamedayfromageologicaltour,bywhichsomePortugueseexpectedthatafabuloussilver-minewouldberediscovered。Thetraditioninthecountryis,thattheJesuitsformerlyknewandworkedapreciouslodeatChicova。Mr。ThorntonhadgonebeyondZumbo,incompanywithatraderofcolour;hesoonafterthislefttheZambesiand,joiningtheexpeditionoftheBaronvanderDecken,exploredthesnowmountainKilimanjaro,north-westofZanzibar。Mr。Thornton\'scompanion,thetrader,broughtbackmuchivory,havingfounditbothabundantandcheap。Hewasobliged,however,topayheavyfinestotheBanyaiandothertribes,inthecountrywhichiscoollyclaimedinEuropeasPortuguese。Duringthistripofsixmouths200piecesofcottonclothofsixteenyardseach,besidesbeadsandbrasswire,werepaidtothedifferentchiefs,forleavetopassthroughtheircountry。Inadditiontothesesufficientlyweightyexactions,thenativesofTHISDOMINIONhavegotintothehabitofimposingfinesforallegedmilandos,orcrimes,whichthetraders\'menmayhaveunwittinglycommitted。Themerchants,however,submitratherthanruntheriskoffighting。

  ThegeneralmonotonyofexistenceatTetteissometimesrelievedbyanoccasionaldeathorwedding。Whenthedeceasedisapersonofconsequence,thequantityofgunpowderhisslavesareallowedtoexpendisenormous。Theexpensemay,inproportiontotheirmeans,resemblethatincurredbyfoolishlygaudyfuneralsinEngland。WhenatTette,wealwaysjoinedwithsympathizingheartsinaiding,byourpresenceatthelastrites,tosoothethesorrowsofthesurvivingrelatives。Wearesurethattheywouldhavedonethesametoushadwebeenthemourners。Weneverhadtocomplainofwantofhospitality。Indeed,thegreatkindnessshownbymanyofwhomwehaveoftenspoken,willneverbeeffacedfromourmemorytillourdyingday。Whenwespeakoftheirfailingsitisinsorrow,notinanger。Theirtradinginslavesisanenormousmistake。TheirGovernmentplacestheminafalsepositionbycuttingthemofffromtherestoftheworld;andofthistheyalwaysspeakwithabitternesswhich,wereitheard,mightalterthetoneofthestatesmenofLisbon。Butherethereisnopress,nobooksellers\'

  shops,andscarcelyaschoolmaster。Hadwebeenborninsimilaruntowardcircumstances——wetrembletothinkofit!

  Theweddingsarecelebratedwithasmuchjollityasweddingsareanywhere。WewitnessedoneinthehouseofourfriendthePadre。Itbeingthemarriageofhisgoddaughter,hekindlyinvitedustobepartakersinhisjoy;andwetherebecameacquaintedwitholdDonnaEngenia,whowasamarriedwifeandhadchildren,whentheslavescamefromCassange,beforeanyofuswereborn。Thewholemerry-

  makingwasmarkedbygoodtasteamidpropriety。

  AbouttheonlyinterestingobjectinthevicinityofTetteisthecoalafewmilestothenorth。There,inthefeedersofthestreamRevubue,itcropsoutincliffsections。Theseamsarefromfourtosevenfeetinthickness;onemeasuredwasfoundtobetwenty-fivefeetthick。

  LearningthatitwouldbedifficultforourpartytoobtainfoodbeyondKebrabasabeforethenewcropcameinandknowingthedifficultyofhuntingforsomanymeninthewetseason,wedecidedondeferringourdeparturefortheinterioruntilMay,andinthemeantimetorundownoncemoretotheKongone,inthehopesofreceivinglettersanddespatchesfromtheman-of-warthatwastocallinMarch。WeleftTetteonthe10th,andatSennaheardthatourlostmailhadbeenpickeduponthebeachbynatives,westoftheMilambe;carriedtoQuillimane,sentthencetoSenna,and,passingussomewhereontheriver,ontoTette。AtShupangathegovernorinformedusthatitwasaverylargemail;nogreatcomfort,seeingitwasawayuptheriver。

  Mosquitoeswereexcessivelytroublesomeattheharbour,andespeciallywhenalightbreezeblewfromthenorthoverthemangroves。Welivedforseveralweeksinsmallhuts,builtbyourmen。Thosewhodidthehuntingforthepartyalwaysgotwet,andwereattackedbyfever,butgenerallyrecoveredintimetobeoutagainbeforethemeatwasallconsumed。Noshipappearing,westartedoffonthe15thofMarch,andstoppedtowoodontheLuabo,nearanencampmentofhippopotamushunters;ourmenheardagain,throughthem,ofthecanoepathfromthisplacetoQuillimane,buttheydeclinedtopointitout。

  WefoundourfriendMajorSicardatMazarowithpicks,shovels,hurdles,andslaves,havingcometobuildafortandcustom-houseattheKongone。Aswehadnogoodreasontohidetheharbour,butmanyforitsbeingmadeknown,wesuppliedhimwithachartofthetortuousbranches,which,runningamongthemangroves,perplexthesearch;andwithsuchdirectionsaswouldenablehimtofindhiswaydowntotheriver。Hehadbroughttherelicsofourfugitivemail,anditwasadisappointmenttofindthatallhadbeenlost,withtheexceptionofabundleofoldnewspapers,twophotographs,andthreeletters,whichhadbeenwrittenbeforeweleftEngland。

  ThedistancefromMazaro,ontheZambesiside,totheKwakwaatNterra,isaboutsixmiles,overasurprisinglyrichdarksoil。Wepassedthenightinthelongshed,erectedatNterra,onthebanksofthisriver,fortheuseoftravellers,whohaveoftentowaitseveraldaysforcanoes;wetriedtosleep,butthemosquitoesandratsweresotroublesomeastorendersleepimpossible。Therats,orratherlargemice,closelyresemblingMuspumilioSmith,ofthisregion,arequitefacetious,and,havingagreatdealoffuninthem,oftenlaughheartily。Againandagaintheywokeusupbyscamperingoverourfaces,andthenburstingintoaloudlaughofHe!he!he!athavingperformedthefeat。Theirsenseoftheludicrousappearstobeexquisite;theyscreamedwithlaughterattheattemptswhichdisturbedandangryhumannaturemadeinthedarktobringtheirill-

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