Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo

第4章

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第4章

Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo William Makepeace Thackeray

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Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo
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  Ilikepointingmorals,andinventingformyselfcheapconsolations,toreconcilemetothatstateoflifeintowhichithaspleasedHeaventocallme;andastheLightoftheWorlddisappearedroundthecorner,IreasonedpleasantlywithmyselfaboutHisHighness,andenjoyedthatsecretselfishsatisfactionamanhas,whoseesheisbetteroffthanhisneighbour。\"MichaelAngelo,\"Isaid,\"youarestill(bycourtesy)young:ifyouhadfivehundredthousandayear,andwereagreatprince,Iwouldlayawagerthatmenwoulddiscoverinyouamagnificentcourtesyofdemeanour,andamajesticpresencethatonlybelongstothesovereignsoftheworld。Ifyouhadsuchanincome,youthinkyoucouldspenditwithsplendour:distributinggenialhospitalities,kindlyalms,soothingmisery,biddinghumilitybeofgoodheart,rewardingdesert。Ifyouhadsuchmeansofpurchasingpleasure,youthink,yourogue,youcouldrelishitwithgusto。ButfancybeingbroughttotheconditionofthepoorLightoftheUniverseyonder;andreconcileyourselfwiththeideathatyouareonlyafarthingrushlight。ThecriesofthepoorwidowfallasdeaduponhimasthesmilesofthebrightesteyesoutofGeorgia。Hecan’tstirabroadbutthoseabominablecannonbeginroaringanddeafeninghisears。Hecan’tseetheworldbutovertheshouldersofarowoffatpashas,andeunuchs,withtheirinfernalugliness。Hisearscanneverberegaledwithawordoftruth,orblessedwithanhonestlaugh。Theonlyprivilegeofmanhoodlefttohim,heenjoysbutforamonthintheyear,atthistimeofRamazan,whenheisforcedtofastforfifteenhours;and,byconsequence,hastheblessingoffeelinghungry。\"SunsetduringLentappearstobehissinglemomentofpleasure;theysaythepoorfellowisravenousbythattime,andasthegunfiresthedish-coversaretakenoff,sothatforfiveminutesadayhelivesandishappyoverpillau,likeanothermortal。

  Andyet,whenfloatingbytheSummerPalace,abarbaricedificeofwoodandmarble,withgildedsunsblazingovertheporticoes,andallsortsofstrangeornamentsandtrophiesfiguringonthegatesandrailings——whenwepassedalongrowofbarredandfiligreedwindows,lookingonthewater——whenweweretoldthatthoseweretheapartmentsofHisHighness’sladies,andactuallyheardthemwhisperingandlaughingbehindthebars——astrangefeelingofcuriositycameoversomeill-regulatedminds——justtohaveonepeep,onelookatallthosewondrousbeauties,singingtothedulcimers,paddlinginthefountains,dancinginthemarblehalls,orlollingonthegoldencushions,asthegaudyblackslavesbroughtpipesandcoffee。Thistumultuousmovementwascalmedbythinkingofthatdreadfulstatementoftravellers,thatinoneofthemosteleganthallsthereisatrap-door,onpeepingbelowwhichyoumayseetheBosphorusrunningunderneath,intowhichsomelucklessbeautyisplungedoccasionally,andthetrap-doorisshut,andthedancingandthesinging,andthesmokingandthelaughinggoonasbefore。Theysayitisdeathtopickupanyofthesacksthereabouts,ifastrayoneshouldfloatbyyou。TherewerenoneanydaywhenIpassed,ATLEAST,ONTHESURFACEOFTHEWATER。

  IthasbeenratherafashionofourtravellerstoapologiseforTurkishlife,oflate,andpaintglowingagreeablepicturesofmanyofitsinstitutions。Thecelebratedauthorof\"Palm-Leaves\"(hisnameisfamousunderthedate-treesoftheNile,andutteredwithrespectbeneaththetentsoftheBedaween)hastouchinglydescribedIbrahimPasha’spaternalfondness,whocutoffablackslave’sheadforhavingdroppedandmaimedoneofhischildren;andhaspennedamelodiouspanegyricof\"TheHarem,\"andofthefondandbeautifuldutiesoftheinmatesofthatplaceoflove,obedience,andseclusion。Isaw,atthemausoleumofthelateSultanMahmoud’sfamily,agoodsubjectforaGhazul,inthetruenewOrientalmanner。

  TheseRoyalburial-placesaretheresortofthepiousMoslems。

  Lampsarekeptburningthere;andintheantechambers,copiesoftheKoranareprovidedfortheuseofbelievers;andyouneverpassthesecemeteriesbutyouseeTurkswashingatthecisterns,previoustoenteringforprayer,orsquattedonthebenches,chantingpassagesfromthesacredvolume。Christians,Ibelieve,arenotadmitted,butmaylookthroughthebars,andseethecoffinsofthedefunctmonarchsandchildrenoftheRoyalrace。

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