Inoneoftheseechoingandsunlessgullieswesaw,clusteredlikesea-birdsonasplashingledge,shrillassea-birdsintheirsalutationtothepassingboat,agroupoffisherwomen,strippedtotheirgaudyunder-clothes。Theclashofthesurfandthethinfemalevoicesechoinmymemory。Wehadthatdayanativecrewandsteersman,Kauanui;itwasourfirstexperienceofPolynesianseamanship,whichconsistsinhuggingeverypointofland。Thereisnothoughtinthisofsavingtime,fortheywillpullalongwayintoskirtapointthatisembayed。Itseemsthat,astheycannevergettheirhousesnearenoughthesurfupontheoneside,sotheycannevergettheirboatsnearenoughupontheother。Thepracticeinboldwaterisnotsodangerousasitlooks-thereflexfromtherockssendingtheboatoff。Nearbeacheswithaheavyrunofsea,Icontinuetothinkitveryhazardous,andfindthecomposureofthenativesannoyingtobehold。Wetookunmingledpleasure,onthewayout,toseesonearathandthebeachandthewonderfulcoloursofthesurf。Onthewayback,whentheseahadrisenandwasrunningstrongagainstus,thefinenessofthesteersman’saimgrewmoreembarrassing。Aswecameabreastofthesea-front,wherethesurfbrokehighest,Kauanuiembracedtheoccasiontolighthispipe,whichthenmadethecircuitoftheboat-eachmantakingawhiffortwo,and,erehepassediton,fillinghislungsandcheekswithsmoke。Theirfaceswereallpuffedoutlikeapplesaswecameabreastoftheclifffoot,andtheburstingsurgefellbackintotheboatinshowers。Atthenextpoint’cocanetti’wastheword,andthestrokeborrowedmyknife,anddesistedfromhislabourstoopennuts。Theseuntimelyindulgencesmaybecomparedtothetotofgrogservedoutbeforeashipgoesintoaction。
Mypurposeinthisvisitledmefirsttotheboys’school,forHatiheuistheuniversityofthenorthislands。Thehumofthelessoncameouttomeetus。Closebythedoor,wherethedraughtblewcoolest,satthelaybrother;aroundhim,inapackedhalf-
circle,somesixtyhigh-colouredfacessetwithstaringeyes;andinthebackgroundofthebarn-likeroombenchesweretobeseen,andblackboardswithsumsontheminchalk。Thebrotherrosetogreetus,sensiblyhumble。Thirtyyearshehadbeenthere,hesaid,andfingeredhiswhitelocksasabashfulchildpullsouthispinafore。’ETPOINTDERESULTATS,MONSIEUR,PRESQUEPASDE
RESULTATS。’Hepointedtothescholars:’Yousee,sir,alltheyouthofNuka-hivaandUa-pu。Betweentheagesofsixandfifteenthisisallthatremains;anditisbutafewyearssincewehadahundredandtwentyfromNuka-hivaalone。OUI,MONSIEUR,CELASE
DEPERIT。’Prayers,andreadingandwriting,prayersagainandarithmetic,andmoreprayerstoconclude:suchappearedtobethedrearynatureofthecourse。Forarithmeticallislandpeoplehaveanaturaltaste。InHawaiitheymakegoodprogressinmathematics。