Ihavementionedtwofacts-thedistastefulbehaviourofourearliestvisitors,andthecaseoftheladywhorubbedherselfuponthecushions-whichwouldgiveaveryfalseopinionofMarquesanmanners。ThegreatmajorityofPolynesiansareexcellentlymannered;buttheMarquesanstandsapart,annoyingandattractive,wild,shy,andrefined。Ifyoumakehimapresentheaffectstoforgetit,anditmustbeofferedhimagainathisgoing:aprettyformalityIhavefoundnowhereelse。Ahintwillgetridofanyoneoranynumber;theyaresofiercelyproudandmodest;whilemanyofthemorelovablebutblunterislanderscrowduponastranger,andcanbenomoredrivenoffthanflies。AslightoraninsulttheMarquesanseemsnevertoforget。IwasonedaytalkingbythewaysidewithmyfriendHoka,whenIperceivedhiseyessuddenlytoflashandhisstaturetoswell。Awhitehorsemanwascomingdownthemountain,andashepassed,andwhilehepausedtoexchangesalutationswithmyself,Hokawasstillstaringandrufflinglikeagamecock。ItwasaCorsicanwhohadyearsbeforecalledhimCOCHONSAUVAGE-COCONCHAUVAGE,asHokamispronouncedit。Withpeoplesoniceandsotouchy,itwasscarcetobesupposedthatourcompanyofgreenhornsshouldnotblunderintooffences。Hoka,ononeofhisvisits,fellsuddenlyinabroodingsilence,andpresentlyafterlefttheshipwithcoldformality。
Whenhetookmebackintofavour,headroitlyandpointedlyexplainedthenatureofmyoffence:Ihadaskedhimtosellcocoa-
nuts;andinHoka’sviewarticlesoffoodwerethingsthatagentlemanshouldgive,notsell;oratleastthatheshouldnotselltoanyfriend。OnanotheroccasionIgavemyboat’screwaluncheonofchocolateandbiscuits。Ihadsinned,Icouldneverlearnhow,againstsomepointofobservance;andthoughIwasdrilythanked,myofferingswereleftuponthebeach。ButourworstmistakewasaslightweputonToma,Hoka’sadoptivefather,andinhisowneyestherightfulchiefofAnaho。Inthefirstplace,wedidnotcalluponhim,asperhapsweshould,inhisfinenewEuropeanhouse,theonlyoneinthehamlet。Inthesecond,whenwecameashoreuponavisittohisrival,Taipi-Kikino,itwasTomawhomwesawstandingattheheadofthebeach,amagnificentfigureofaman,magnificentlytattooed;anditwasofTomathatweaskedourquestion:’Whereisthechief?’’Whatchief?’criedToma,andturnedhisbackontheblasphemers。Nordidheforgiveus。Hokacameandwentwithusdaily;but,aloneIbelieveofallthecountryside,neitherTomanorhiswifesetfootonboardtheCASCO。
ThetemptationresisteditishardforaEuropeantocompute。TheflyingcityofLaputamooredforafortnightinSt。James’sParkaffordsbutapalefigureoftheCASCOanchoredbeforeAnaho;fortheLondonerhasstillhischangeofpleasures,buttheMarquesanpassestohisgravethroughanunbrokenuniformityofdays。
Ontheafternoonbeforeitwasintendedweshouldsail,avaledictorypartycameonboard:nineofourparticularfriendsequippedwithgiftsanddressedasforafestival。Hoka,thechiefdancerandsinger,thegreatestdandyofAnaho,andoneofthehandsomestyoungfellowsintheworld-sullen,showy,dramatic,lightasafeatherandstrongasanox-itwouldhavebeenhard,onthatoccasion,torecognise,ashesattherestoopedandsilent,hisfaceheavyandgrey。Itwasstrangetoseetheladsomuchaffected;strangerstilltorecogniseinhislastgiftoneofthecurioswehadrefusedonthefirstday,andtoknowourfriend,sogailydressed,soplainlymovedatourdeparture,foroneofthehalf-nakedcrewthathadbesiegedandinsultedusonourarrival: