Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

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第50章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  InoneoftheworstplacestheAino’shorse,whichwasjustinfrontofmine,intryingtoscrambleupanearlybreast-highandmuch-wornledge,fellbackwards,nearlyoverturningmyhorse,thestretcherpoles,whichformedpartofhispack,strikingmesohardabovemyanklethatforsomeminutesafterwardsIthoughtthebonewasbroken。Theanklewasseverelycutandbruised,andbledagooddeal,andIwasknockedoutofthesaddle。Ito’shorsefellthreetimes,andeventuallythefourwereropedtogether。SucharesomeofthedivertissementsofYezotravel。

  Ah,butitwasglorious!Theviewsaremostmagnificent。ThisisreallyParadise。Everythingishere——hugeheadlandsmagnificentlytimbered,small,deepbaysintowhichthegreatgreenwavesrollmajestically,great,greycliffs,tooperpendicularforeventhemostadventuroustrailertofindroot-hold,boldbluffsandoutlyingstackscedar-crested,glimpsesofbright,blueoceandimplinginthesunshineortossingupwreathsoffoamamongfernsandtrailers,andinlandrangesofmountainsforest-covered,withtremendousgorgesbetween,forestfilled,wherewolf,bear,anddeermaketheirnearlyinaccessiblelairs,andoutlyingbattlements,andridgesofgreyrockwithhardlysixfeetoflevelontheirsinuoustops,andcedarsinmassesgivingdeepshadow,andspraysofscarletmapleorfestoonsofacrimsonvinelightingthegloom。Theinlandviewsuggestedinfinity。Thereseemednolimittotheforest-coveredmountainsandtheunlightedravines。Thewealthofvegetationwasequalinluxurianceandentanglementtothatofthetropics,primevalvegetation,onwhichthelumberer’saxehasneverrung。Treesofimmenseheightandgirth,speciallythebeautifulSalisburiaadiantifolia,withitssmallfan-shapedleaves,allmattedtogetherbyriotouslianas,riseoutofanimpenetrableundergrowthofthedwarf,dark-leavedbamboo,which,dwarfasitis,attainsaheightofsevenfeet,andallisdark,solemn,soundless,thehauntofwildbeasts,andofbutterfliesanddragonfliesofthemostbrilliantcolours。Therewaslightwithoutheat,leavesandstreamssparkled,andtherewasnothingofthehalf-smotheredsensationwhichisoftenproducedbythechokinggreeneryofthemainisland,forfrequently,farbelow,thePacificflashedinallitssunlitbeauty,andoccasionallywecamedownunexpectedlyonalittlecovewithabruptcedar-crestedheadlandsandstacks,andaheavysurfrollinginwiththedeepthundermusicwhichalonebreaksthestillnessofthissilentland。

  TherewasonetremendousdeclivitywhereIgotofftowalk,butfoundittoosteeptodescendonfootwithcomfort。Youcanimaginehowsteepitwas,whenItellyouthatthedeepgroovebeingtoonarrowformetogettothesideofmyhorse,Idroppeddownuponhimfrombehind,betweenhistailandthesaddle,andsoscrambledon!

  Thesunhadsetandthedewwasfallingheavilywhenthetrackdippedoverthebrowofaheadland,becomingawaterwaysosteepandroughthatIcouldnotgetdownitonfootwithouttheassistanceofmyhands,andterminatingonalonelylittlebayofgreatbeauty,walledinbyimpracticable-lookingheadlands,whichwastheentrancetoanequallyimpracticable-looking,densely-

  woodedvalleyrunningupamongdensely-woodedmountains。Therewasamarginofgreysandabovethesea,andonthistheskeletonofanenormouswhalewasbleaching。Twoorthreelarge“dug-outs,“withplankslacedwithstoutfibreontheirgunwales,andsomebleacheddrift-woodlayonthebeach,theforegroundofasolitary,rambling,dilapidatedgreyhouse,bleachedlikeallelse,wherethreeJapanesemenwithanoldAinoservantlivetolookafter“Governmentinterests,“whateverthesemaybe,andkeeproomsandhorsesforGovernmentofficials——agreatboontotravellerswho,likeme,arebelatedhere。OnlyonepersonhaspassedLebungethisyear,excepttwoofficialsandapoliceman。

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