Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第46章

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第46章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  APartingGift——ADelicacy——Generosity——ASeasideVillage——

  Pipichari’sAdvice——ADrunkenRevel——Ito’sProphecies——TheKocho’sIllness——PatentMedicines。

  IlefttheAinosyesterdaywithrealregret,thoughImustconfessthatsleepinginone’sclothesandthelackofablutionsareveryfatiguing。Benri’stwowivesspenttheearlymorninginthelaboriousoperationofgrindingmilletintocoarseflour,andbeforeIdeparted,astheircustomis,theymadeapasteofit,rolleditwiththeiruncleanfingersintowell-shapedcakes,boiledthemintheunwashedpotinwhichtheymaketheirstewof“abominablethings,“andpresentedthemtomeonalacquertray。

  TheyweredistressedthatIdidnoteattheirfood,andawomanwenttoavillageatsomedistanceandbroughtmesomevenisonfatasadelicacy。AllthoseofwhomIhadseenmuchcametowishmegood-bye,andtheybroughtsomanypresentsincludingafinebearskinthatIshouldhaveneededanadditionalhorsetocarrythemhadIacceptedbutone-half。

  IrodetwelvemilesthroughtheforesttoMombets,whereIintendedtospendSunday,butIhadtheworsthorseIeverrode,andwetookfivehours。Thedaywasdullandsad,threateningastorm,andwhenwegotoutoftheforest,uponasand-hillcoveredwithoakscrub,weencounteredamostfuriouswind。AmongthemanyviewswhichIhaveseen,thatisonetoberemembered。Belowlayableachedandbaresand-hill,withafewgreyhouseshuddledinitsmiserableshelter,andaheaped-upshoreofgreysand,onwhichabrown-greyseawasbreakingwithclashandboominlong,white,raggedlines,withallbeyondaconfusionofsurf,surge,andmist,withdrivingbrowncloudsminglingseaandsky,andallbetweenshowingonlyinglimpsesamidstscudsofsand。

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