Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第40章

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第40章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  ForcertainlynoEuropeanhadeverpreviouslyfloatedonthedarkandforest-shroudedwaters。Ienjoyedthosehoursthoroughly,forthesilencewasprofound,andthefaintblueoftheautumnsky,andthesoftblueveilwhich“spiritualised“thedistances,weresoexquisitelyliketheIndiansummer。

  Theeveningwasspentlikethepreviousone,buttheheartsofthesavagesweresad,fortherewasnomoresakeinBiratori,sotheycouldnot“drinktothegod,“andthefireandthepostwiththeshavingshadtogowithoutlibations。Therewasnomoreoil,soafterthestrangersretiredthehutwasincompletedarkness。

  Yesterdaymorningweallbreakfastedsoonafterdaylight,andtheable-bodiedmenwentawaytohunt。Huntingandfishingaretheiroccupations,andfor“indoorrecreation“theycarvetobacco-boxes,knife-sheaths,sake-sticks,andshuttles。Itisquiteunnecessaryforthemtodoanything;theyarequitecontentedtositbythefire,andsmokeoccasionally,andeatandsleep,thisapathybeingvariedbyspasmsofactivitywhenthereisnomoredriedfleshinthekuras,andwhenskinsmustbetakentoSarufutotopayforsake。Thewomenseemnevertohaveanidlemoment。Theyriseearlytosew,weave,andsplitbark,fortheynotonlyclothethemselvesandtheirhusbandsinthisnearlyindestructiblecloth,butweaveitforbarter,andthelowerclassofJapaneseareconstantlytobeseenwearingtheproductofAinoindustry。Theydoallthehardwork,suchasdrawingwater,choppingwood,grindingmillet,andcultivatingthesoil,aftertheirfashion;

  but,todothemenjustice,Ioftenseethemtrudgingalongcarryingoneandeventwochildren。Thewomentaketheexclusivechargeofthekuras,whichareneverenteredbymen。

  Iwasleftforsomehoursalonewiththewomen,ofwhomtherewereseveninthehut,withafewchildren。Ontheonesideofthefirethechief’smothersatlikeaFate,foreversplittingandknottingbark,andpetrifyingmebyhercold,fatefuleyes。Herthick,greyhairhangsinshocks,thetattooingroundhermouthhasnearlyfaded,andnolongerdisguisesherreallyhandsomefeatures。Sheisdressedinamuchornamentedbark-clothdress,andwearstwosilverbeadstiedroundherneckbyapieceofbluecotton,inadditiontoverylargeearrings。Shehasmuchswayinthehouse,sittingonthemen’ssideofthefire,drinkingplentyofsake,andoccasionallychidinghergrandsonShinondifortellingmetoomuch,sayingthatitwillbringharmtoherpeople。Thoughherexpressionissosevereandforbidding,sheiscertainlyveryhandsome,anditisaEuropean,notanAsiatic,beauty。

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