Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第32章

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第32章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  confessthatIshutmyeyes!Aftergettingthrough,wecameuponthelandsbelongingtothisvillage——rice-fieldswiththedykesburst,andallthebeautifulridgeandfurrowcultivationoftheothercropscarriedaway。Thewaterswererisingfast,themensaidwemusthurry;theyunboundme,sothatImightridemorecomfortably,spoketothehorses,andwentonatarun。Myhorse,whichhadnearlywornouthisshoesinthefords,stumbledateverystep,themagogavemeanooseofropetoclutch,therainfellinsuchtorrentsthatIspeculatedonthechanceofbeingwashedoffmysaddle,whensuddenlyIsawashowerofsparks;Ifeltunutterablethings;Iwaschoked,bruised,stifled,andpresentlyfoundmyselfbeinghauledoutofaditchbythreemen,andrealisedthatthehorsehadtumbleddowningoingdownasteepishhill,andthatIhadgoneoverhishead。Toclimbagainonthesoakedfutonwastheworkofamoment,and,withmenrunningandhorsesstumblingandsplashing,wecrossedtheHirakawabyonefinebridge,andhalfamilefartherre-crosseditonanother,wishingaswedidsothatallJapanesebridgeswereassubstantial,fortheywereboth100feetlong,andhadcentralpiers。

  WeenteredIkarigasekifromthelastbridge,avillageof800

  people,onanarrowledgebetweenanabrupthillandtheHirakawa,amostforlornandtumble-downplace,givenuptofellingtimberandmakingshingles;andtimberinallitsforms——logs,planks,faggots,andshingles——isheapedandstalkedabout。Itlooksmorelikealumberer’sencampmentthanapermanentvillage,butitisbeautifullysituated,andunlikeanyoftheinnumerablevillagesthatIhaveeverseen。

  Thestreetislongandnarrow,withstreamsinstonechannelsoneitherside;butthesehadoverflowed,andmen,women,andchildrenwereconstructingsquaredamstokeepthewater,whichhadalreadyreachedthedoma,fromrisingoverthetatami。Hardlyanyhousehaspaperwindows,andinthefewwhichhave,theyaresoblackwithsmokeastolookworsethannone。Theroofsarenearlyflat,andarecoveredwithshinglesheldonbylathsandweightedwithlargestones。Nearlyallthehouseslookliketemporarysheds,andmostareasblackinsideasaBarrahut。Thewallsofmanyarenothingbutroughboardstiedtotheuprightsbystrawropes。

  Inthedrowningtorrent,sittinginpuddlesofwater,anddrenchedtotheskinhoursbefore,wereachedthisveryprimitiveyadoya,thelowerpartofwhichisoccupiedbythedaidokoro,apartyofstorm-boundstudents,horses,fowls,anddogs。Myroomisawretchedloft,reachedbyaladder,withsuchaquagmireatitsfootthatIhavetodescendintoitinWellingtonboots。Itwasdismallygrotesqueatfirst。ThetorrentontheunceiledroofpreventedItofromhearingwhatIsaid,thebedwassoaked,andthewater,havinggotintomybox,haddissolvedtheremainsofthecondensedmilk,andhadreducedclothes,books,andpaperintoaconditionofuniversalstickiness。Mykimonowaslesswetthananythingelse,and,borrowingasheetofoiledpaper,Ilaydowninit,tillrousedupinhalfanhourbyItoshriekingabovethedinontheroofthatthepeoplethoughtthatthebridgebywhichwehadjustenteredwouldgiveway;and,runningtotheriverbank,wejoinedalargecrowd,fartoointenselyoccupiedbythecomingdisastertotakeanynoticeofthefirstforeignladytheyhadeverseen。

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