Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第29章

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第29章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  lookinganimalsinbraveryofscarletclothandlacquerandfringednetsofleather,andmanystrawwispsandropes,withGothicroofsforsaddles,anddependentpanniersoneachside,carryingtwograveandstately-lookingchildrenineach,andsometimesafatherorafifthchildonthetopofthepack-saddle。

  IwassofarfromwellthatIwasobligedtosleepatthewretchedvillageofAbukawa,inaloftalivewithfleas,wherethericewastoodirtytobeeaten,andwherethehouse-master’swife,whosatforanhouronmyfloor,wassorelyafflictedwithskindisease。

  Theclayhouseshavedisappearedandthevillagesarenowbuiltofwood,butAbukawaisanantiquated,ramshackleplace,proppedupwithpostsandslantingbeamsprojectingintotheroadwayfortheentanglementofunwarypassengers。

  Thevillagesmithwasopposite,buthewasnotamanofponderousstrength,norweretherethosewondrousflightsandscintillationsofsparkswhichwerethejoyofourchildhoodintheTattenhallforge。Afireofpowderedcharcoalonthefloor,alwaysbeingtrimmedandreplenishedbyaleanandgrimysatellite,amanstillleanerandgrimier,clothedingogglesandagirdle,alwayssittinginfrontofit,heatingandhammeringironbarswithhishands,withaclinkwhichwentonlateintothenight,andblowinghisbellowswithhistoes;barsandpiecesofrustyironpinnedonthesmokywalls,andagroupofidlemenwatchinghisskilfulmanipulation,werethesightsoftheAbukawasmithy,andkeptmethralledinthebalcony,thoughthewholeclotheslesspopulationstoodforthewholeeveninginfrontofthehousewithasilent,open-mouthedstare。

  Earlyinthemorningthesamemelancholycrowdappearedinthedismaldrizzle,whichturnedintoatremendoustorrent,whichhaslastedforsixteenhours。Lowhills,broadricevalleysinwhichpeoplearepuddlingthericeasecondtimetokilltheweeds,badroads,prettyvillages,muchindigo,fewpassengers,werethefeaturesoftheday’sjourney。AtMoriokaandseveralothervillagesinthisregionInoticedthatifyouseeonelarge,high,well-builthouse,standinginenclosedgrounds,withalookofwealthaboutit,itisalwaysthatofthesakebrewer。Abushdenotesthemanufactureaswellasthesaleofsake,andtheseareofallsorts,fromthemangybitoffirwhichhasseenlongservicetothevigoroustrussofpineconstantlyrenewed。ItiscuriousthatthisshouldformerlyhavebeenthesignofthesaleofwineinEngland。

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