Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第10章

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第10章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  priestswhogaveitsplendourarescattered,andsixShintopriestsalternatelyattenduponitasmuchforthepurposeofsellingticketsofadmissionasforanypriestlyduties。

  Allroads,bridges,andavenueshereleadtotheseshrines,butthegrandapproachisbytheRedBridge,andupabroadroadwithstepsatintervalsandstone-facedembankmentsateachside,onthetopofwhicharebeltsofcryptomeria。Atthesummitofthisascentisafinegranitetorii,27feet6incheshigh,withcolumns3feet6

  inchesindiameter,offeredbythedaimiyoofChikuzenin1618fromhisownquarries。Afterthiscome118magnificentbronzelanternsonmassivestonepedestals,eachofwhichisinscribedwiththeposthumoustitleofIyeyasu,thenameofthegiver,andalegendoftheoffering——allthegiftsofdaimiyo——aholywatercisternmadeofasolidblockofgranite,andcoveredbyaroofrestingontwentysquaregranitepillars,andabronzebell,lantern,andcandelabraofmarvellousworkmanship,offeredbythekingsofCoreaandLiukiu。Ontheleftisafive-storiedpagoda,104feethigh,richlycarvedinwoodandasrichlygildedandpainted。Thesignsofthezodiacrunroundthelowerstory。

  Thegrandentrancegateisatthetopofahandsomeflightofstepsfortyyardsfromthetorii。AloopedwhitecurtainwiththeMikado’screstinblack,hangspartiallyoverthegateway,inwhich,beautifulasitis,onedoesnotcaretolinger,toexaminethegildedamainuinniches,orthespiritedcarvingsoftigersundertheeaves,fortheviewofthefirstcourtoverwhelmsonebyitsmagnificenceandbeauty。Thewholestyleofthebuildings,thearrangements,theartofeverykind,thethoughtwhichinspiresthewhole,areexclusivelyJapanese,andtheglimpsefromtheNi-ogateisarevelationofapreviouslyundreamed-ofbeauty,bothinformandcolour。

  Roundtheneatlypebbledcourt,whichisenclosedbyabrightredtimberwall,arethreegorgeousbuildings,whichcontainthetreasuresofthetemple,asumptuousstableforthethreesacredAlbinohorses,whicharekeptfortheuseofthegod,amagnificentgranitecisternofholywater,fedfromtheSomendakicascade,andahighlydecoratedbuilding,inwhichacompletecollectionofBuddhistScripturesisdeposited。Fromthisaflightofstepsleadsintoasmallercourtcontainingabell-tower“ofmarvellousworkmanshipandornamentation,“adrum-tower,hardlylessbeautiful,ashrine,thecandelabra,bell,andlanternmentionedbefore,andsomeverygrandbronzelanterns。

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