AndthenwhatahillistheWhiteHorseHill!Thereitstandsrightupabovealltherest,ninehundredfeetabovethesea,andtheboldest,bravestshapeforachalkhillthatyoueversaw。Letusgouptothetopofhim,andseewhatistobefoundthere。Ay,youmaywellwonderandthinkitoddyouneverheardofthisbefore;butwonderornot,asyouplease,therearehundredsofsuchthingslyingaboutEngland,whichwiserfolkthanyouknownothingof,andcarenothingfor。Yes,it’samagnificentRomancamp,andnomistake,withgatesandditchandmounds,allascompleteasitwastwentyyearsafterthestrongoldroguesleftit。Here,rightuponthehighestpoint,fromwhichtheysayyoucanseeelevencounties,theytrenchedroundallthetable-land,sometwelveorfourteenacres,aswastheircustom,fortheycouldn’tbearanybodytooverlookthem,andmadetheireyrie。Thegroundfallsawayrapidlyonallsides。Wasthereeversuchturfinthewholeworld?Yousinkuptoyouranklesateverystep,andyetthespringofitisdelicious。Thereisalwaysabreezeinthe“camp,“asitiscalled;andhereitlies,justastheRomansleftit,exceptthatcairnontheeastside,leftbyherMajesty’scorpsofsappersandminerstheotherday,whentheyandtheengineerofficerhadfinishedtheirsojournthere,andtheirsurveysfortheordnancemapofBerkshire。Itisaltogetheraplacethatyouwon’tforget,aplacetoopenaman’ssoul,andmakehimprophesy,ashelooksdownonthatgreatValespreadoutasthegardenoftheLordbeforehim,andwaveonwaveofthemysteriousdownsbehind,andtotherightandleftthechalkhillsrunningawayintothedistance,alongwhichhecantraceformilestheoldRomanroad,“theRidgeway““theRudge,“asthecountryfolkcallit,keepingstraightalongthehighestbackofthehills——suchaplaceasBalakbroughtBalaamto,andtoldhimtoprophesyagainstthepeopleinthevalleybeneath。
Andhecouldnot,neithershallyou,fortheyareapeopleoftheLordwhoabidethere。
Andnowweleavethecamp,anddescendtowardsthewest,andareontheAshdown。Wearetreadingonheroes。ItissacredgroundforEnglishmen——moresacredthanallbutoneortwofieldswheretheirbonesliewhitening。ForthisistheactualplacewhereourAlfredwonhisgreatbattle,thebattleofAshdown“Aescendum“inthechroniclers,whichbroketheDanishpower,andmadeEnglandaChristianland。TheDanesheldthecampandtheslopewherewearestanding——thewholecrownofthehill,infact。“Theheathenhadbeforehandseizedthehigherground,“
asoldAssersays,havingwastedeverythingbehindthemfromLondon,andbeingjustreadytoburstdownonthefairVale,Alfred’sownbirthplaceandheritage。AnduptheheightscametheSaxons,astheydidattheAlma。“TheChristiansleduptheirlinefromthelowerground。Therestoodalsoonthatsamespotasinglethorn-tree,marvellousstumpywhichweourselveswithourveryowneyeshaveseen。“Blesstheoldchronicler!
Doeshethinknobodyeversawthe“singlethorn-tree“buthimself?Why,thereitstandstothisveryday,justontheedgeoftheslope,andIsawitnotthreeweekssince——anoldsinglethorn-tree,“marvellousstumpy。“Atleast,ifitisn’tthesametreeitoughttohavebeen,forit’sjustintheplacewherethebattlemusthavebeenwonorlost——“aroundwhich,asIwassaying,thetwolinesoffoemencametogetherinbattlewithahugeshout。Andinthisplaceoneofthetwokingsoftheheathenandfiveofhisearlsfelldownanddied,andmanythousandsoftheheathensideinthesameplace。“*Afterwhichcrowningmercy,thepiousking,thattheremightneverbewantingasignandamemorialtothecountry-side,carvedoutonthenorthernsideofthechalkhill,underthecamp,whereitisalmostprecipitous,thegreatSaxonWhiteHorse,whichhewhowillmayseefromtherailway,andwhichgivesitsnametotheVale,overwhichithaslookedthesethousandyearsandmore。