Duringtheearlierstagesofeconomicdevelopment，consumptionofgoodswithoutstint，especiallyconsumptionofthebettergradesofgoods，——ideallyallconsumptioninexcessofthesubsistenceminimum，——pertainsnormallytotheleisureclass。Thisrestrictiontendstodisappear，atleastformally，afterthelaterpeaceablestagehasbeenreached，withprivateownershipofgoodsandanindustrialsystembasedonwagelabouroronthepettyhouseholdeconomy。Butduringtheearlierquasi猵eaceablestage，whensomanyofthetraditionsthroughwhichtheinstitutionofaleisureclasshasaffectedtheeconomiclifeoflatertimesweretakingformandconsistency，thisprinciplehashadtheforceofaconventionallaw。Ithasservedasthenormtowhichconsumptionhastendedtoconform，andanyappreciabledeparturefromitistoberegardedasanaberrantform，suretobeeliminatedsoonerorlaterinthefurthercourseofdevelopment。
Thequasi-peaceablegentlemanofleisure，then，notonlyconsumesofthestaffoflifebeyondtheminimumrequiredforsubsistenceandphysicalefficiency，buthisconsumptionalsoundergoesaspecialisationasregardsthequalityofthegoodsconsumed。Heconsumesfreelyandofthebest，infood，drink，narcotics，shelter，services，ornaments，apparel，weaponsandaccoutrements，amusements，amulets，andidolsordivinities。Intheprocessofgradualameliorationwhichtakesplaceinthearticlesofhisconsumption，themotiveprincipleandproximateaimofinnovationisnodoubtthehigherefficiencyoftheimprovedandmoreelaborateproductsforpersonalcomfortandwell-being。Butthatdoesnotremainthesolepurposeoftheirconsumption。Thecanonofreputabilityisathandandseizesuponsuchinnovationsasare，accordingtoitsstandard，fittosurvive。Sincetheconsumptionofthesemoreexcellentgoodsisanevidenceofwealth，itbecomeshonorific；andconversely，thefailuretoconsumeinduequantityandqualitybecomesamarkofinferiorityanddemerit。
Thisgrowthofpunctiliousdiscriminationastoqualitativeexcellenceineating，drinking，etc。presentlyaffectsnotonlythemanneroflife，butalsothetrainingandintellectualactivityofthegentlemanofleisure。Heisnolongersimplythesuccessful，aggressivemale，——themanofstrength，resource，andintrepidity。Inordertoavoidstultificationhemustalsocultivatehistastes，foritnowbecomesincumbentonhimtodiscriminatewithsomenicetybetweenthenobleandtheignobleinconsumablegoods。Hebecomesaconnoisseurincreditableviandsofvariousdegreesofmerit，inmanlybeveragesandtrinkets，inseemlyapparelandarchitecture，inweapons，games，dancers，andthenarcotics。Thiscultivationofaestheticfacultyrequirestimeandapplication，andthedemandsmadeuponthegentlemaninthisdirectionthereforetendtochangehislifeofleisureintoamoreorlessarduousapplicationtothebusinessoflearninghowtolivealifeofostensibleleisureinabecomingway。Closelyrelatedtotherequirementthatthegentlemanmustconsumefreelyandoftherightkindofgoods，thereistherequirementthathemustknowhowtoconsumetheminaseemlymanner。Hislifeofleisuremustbeconductedindueform。Hencearisegoodmannersinthewaypointedoutinanearlierchapter。High-bredmannersandwaysoflivingareitemsofconformitytothenormofconspicuousleisureandconspicuousconsumption。
Conspicuousconsumptionofvaluablegoodsisameansofreputabilitytothegentlemanofleisure。Aswealthaccumulatesonhishands，hisownunaidedeffortwillnotavailtosufficientlyputhisopulenceinevidencebythismethod。Theaidoffriendsandcompetitorsisthereforebroughtinbyresortingtothegivingofvaluablepresentsandexpensivefeastsandentertainments。Presentsandfeastshadprobablyanotheroriginthanthatofnaiveostentation，buttheyrequiredtheirutilityforthispurposeveryearly，andtheyhaveretainedthatcharactertothepresent；sothattheirutilityinthisrespecthasnowlongbeenthesubstantialgroundonwhichtheseusagesrest。Costlyentertainments，suchasthepotlatchortheball，arepeculiarlyadaptedtoservethisend。Thecompetitorwithwhomtheentertainerwishestoinstituteacomparisonis，bythismethod，madetoserveasameanstotheend。Heconsumesvicariouslyforhishostatthesametimethatheiswitnesstotheconsumptionofthatexcessofgoodthingswhichhishostisunabletodisposeofsingle-handed，andheisalsomadetowitnesshishost’sfacilityinetiquette。
Inthegivingofcostlyentertainmentsothermotives，ofmoregenialkind，areofcoursealsopresent。Thecustomoffestivegatheringsprobablyoriginatedinmotivesofconvivialityandreligion；thesemotivesarealsopresentinthelaterdevelopment，buttheydonotcontinuetobethesolemotives。Thelatter-dayleisure-classfestivitiesandentertainmentsmaycontinueinsomeslightdegreetoservethereligiousneedandinahigherdegreetheneedsofrecreationandconviviality，buttheyalsoserveaninvidiouspurpose；andtheyserveitnonethelesseffectuallyforhavingacolorablenon-invidiousgroundinthesemoreavowablemotives。Buttheeconomiceffectofthesesocialamenitiesisnotthereforelessened，eitherinthevicariousconsumptionofgoodsorintheexhibitionofdifficultandcostlyachievementsinetiquette。