dinner，consideringtheprice。NexttotheprovincialInnsofFrance，withthegreatchurch—towerrisingabovethecourtyard，thehorse—bellsjinglingmerrilyupanddownthestreetbeyond，andtheclocksofalldescriptionsinalltherooms，whichareneverright，unlesstakenatthepreciseminutewhen，bygettingexactlytwelvehourstoofastortooslow，theyunintentionallybecomeso。AwayI
went，next，tothelesserroadsideInnsofItaly；whereallthedirtyclothesinthehouse（notinwear）arealwayslyinginyouranteroom；wherethemosquitoesmakearaisinpuddingofyourfaceinsummer，andthecoldbitesitblueinwinter；whereyougetwhatyoucan，andforgetwhatyoucan’t：whereIshouldagainliketobeboilingmyteainapocket—handkerchiefdumpling，forwantofateapot。SototheoldpalaceInnsandoldmonasteryInns，intownsandcitiesofthesamebrightcountry；withtheirmassivequadrangularstaircases，whenceyoumaylookfromamongclusteringpillarshighintothebluevaultofheaven；withtheirstatelybanqueting—rooms，andvastrefectories；withtheirlabyrinthsofghostlybedchambers，andtheirglimpsesintogorgeousstreetsthathavenoappearanceofrealityorpossibility。SotothecloselittleInnsoftheMalariadistricts，withtheirpaleattendants，andtheirpeculiarsmellofneverlettingintheair。SototheimmensefantasticInnsofVenice，withthecryofthegondolierbelow，asheskimsthecorner；thegripofthewateryodoursononeparticularlittlebitofthebridgeofyournose（whichisneverreleasedwhileyoustaythere）；andthegreatbellofSt。Mark’sCathedraltollingmidnight。NextIputupforaminuteattherestlessInnsupontheRhine，whereyourgoingtobed，nomatteratwhathour，appearstobethetocsinforeverybodyelse’sgettingup；
andwhere，inthetable—d’hoteroomattheendofthelongtable（withseveralTowersofBabelonitattheotherend，allmadeofwhiteplates），oneknotofstoutishmen，entirelydressedinjewelsanddirt，andhavingnothingelseuponthem，willremainallnight，clinkingglasses，andsingingabouttheriverthatflows，andthegrapethatgrows，andRhinewinethatbeguiles，andRhinewomanthatsmilesandhidrinkdrinkmyfriendandhodrinkdrinkmybrother，andalltherestofit。Idepartedthence，asamatterofcourse，tootherGermanInns，wherealltheeatablesaresoddeneddowntothesameflavour，andwherethemindisdisturbedbytheapparitionofhotpuddings，andboiledcherries，sweetandslab，atawfullyunexpectedperiodsoftherepast。Afteradraughtofsparklingbeerfromafoamingglassjug，andaglanceofrecognitionthroughthewindowsofthestudentbeer—housesatHeidelbergandelsewhere，I
putouttoseafortheInnsofAmerica，withtheirfourhundredbedsapiece，andtheireightorninehundredladiesandgentlemenatdinnereveryday。AgainIstoodinthebar—roomsthereof，takingmyeveningcobbler，julep，sling，orcocktail。AgainIlistenedtomyfriendtheGeneral，——whomIhadknownforfiveminutes，inthecourseofwhichperiodhehadmademeintimateforlifewithtwoMajors，whoagainhadmademeintimateforlifewiththreeColonels，whoagainhadmademebrothertotwenty—twocivilians，——again，I
say，IlistenedtomyfriendtheGeneral，leisurelyexpoundingtheresourcesoftheestablishment，astogentlemen’smorning—room，sir；