Atnight,astrangerarrivedatthehouseofDonBenito,andaskedpermissiontosleepthere。Hesaidhehadbeenwanderingaboutthemountainsforseventeendays,havinglosthisway。HestartedfromGuasco,andbeingaccustomedtotravellingintheCordillera,didnotexpectanydifficultyinfollowingthetracktoCopiapo;buthesoonbecameinvolvedinalabyrinthofmountains,whencehecouldnotescape。Someofhismuleshadfallenoverprecipices,andhehadbeeningreatdistress。Hischiefdifficultyarosefromnotknowingwheretofindwaterinthelowercountry,sothathewasobligedtokeepborderingthecentralranges。
Wereturneddownthevalley,andonthe22ndreachedthetownofCopiapo。
Thelowerpartofthevalleyisbroad,formingafineplainlikethatofQuillota。Thetowncoversaconsiderablespaceofground,eachhousepossessingagarden:butitisanuncomfortableplace,andthedwellingsarepoorlyfurnished。Everyoneseemsbentontheoneobjectofmakingmoney,andthenmigratingasquicklyaspossible。Alltheinhabitantsaremoreorlessdirectlyconcernedwithmines;andminesandoresarethesolesubjectsofconversation。Necessariesofallsortsareextremelydear;asthedistancefromthetowntotheportiseighteenleagues,andthelandcarriageveryexpensive。Afowlcostsfiveorsixshillings;meatisnearlyasdearasinEngland;firewood,orrathersticks,arebroughtondonkeysfromadistanceoftwoandthreedays’journeywithintheCordillera;andpasturageforanimalsisashillingaday:allthisforSouthAmericaiswonderfullyexorbitant。
June26th——IhiredaguideandeightmulestotakemeintotheCordillerabyadifferentlinefrommylastexcursion。Asthecountrywasutterlydesert,wetookacargoandahalfofbarleymixedwithchoppedstraw。
Abouttwoleaguesabovethetownabroadvalleycalledthe“Despoblado。”