intwoorthreesecondsrecoveringtheirbreath,theywipedthesweatfromtheirbrows,andapparentlyquitefreshdescendedthemineagainataquickpace。Thisappearstomeawonderfulinstanceoftheamountoflabourwhichhabit,foritcanbenothingelse,willenableamantoendure。
Intheevening,talkingwiththe_mayor-domo_oftheseminesaboutthenumberofforeignersnowscatteredoverthewholecountry,hetoldmethat,thoughquiteayoungman,herememberswhenhewasaboyatschoolatCoquimbo,aholidaybeinggiventoseethecaptainofanEnglishship,whowasbroughttothecitytospeaktothegovernor。Hebelievesthatnothingwouldhaveinducedanyboyintheschool,himselfincluded,tohavegoneclosetotheEnglishman;sodeeplyhadtheybeenimpressedwithanideaoftheheresy,contamination,andeviltobederivedfromcontactwithsuchaperson。
Tothisdaytheyrelatetheatrociousactionsofthebucaniers;andespeciallyofoneman,whotookawaythefigureoftheVirginMary,andreturnedtheyearafterforthatofSt。Joseph,sayingitwasapitytheladyshouldnothaveahusband。Iheardalsoofanoldladywho,atadinneratCoquimbo,remarkedhowwonderfullystrangeitwasthatsheshouldhavelivedtodineinthesameroomwithanEnglishman;forsherememberedasagirl,thattwice,atthemerecryof“LosIngleses。”everysoul,carryingwhatvaluablestheycould,hadtakentothemountains。
14th——WereachedCoquimbo,wherewestayedafewdays。Thetownisremarkablefornothingbutitsextremequietness。Itissaidtocontainfrom6000to8000inhabitants。Onthemorningofthe17thitrainedlightly,thefirsttimethisyear,foraboutfivehours。Thefarmers,whoplantcornnearthesea-coastwheretheatmosphereismosthumid,takingadvantageofthisshower,wouldbreakuptheground;afterasecondtheywouldputtheseedin;andifathirdshowershouldfall,theywouldreapagoodharvestinthespring。Itwasinterestingtowatchtheeffectofthistriflingamountofmoisture。Twelvehoursafterwardsthegroundappearedasdryasever;yetafteranintervaloftendays,allthehillswerefaintlytingedwithgreenpatches;thegrassbeingsparinglyscatteredinhair-likefibresafullinchinlength。Beforethisshowereverypartofthesurfacewasbareasonahighroad。
Intheevening,CaptainFitzRoyandmyselfwerediningwithMr。Edwards,anEnglishresidentwellknownforhishospitalitybyallwhohavevisitedCoquimbo,whenasharpearthquakehappened。Iheardtheforecomingrumble,butfromthescreamsoftheladies,therunningoftheservants,andtherushofseveralofthegentlementothedoorway,Icouldnotdistinguishthemotion。Someofthewomenafterwardswerecryingwithterror,andonegentlemansaidheshouldnotbeabletosleepallnight,orifhedid,itwouldonlybetodreamoffallinghouses。ThefatherofthispersonhadlatelylostallhispropertyatTalcahuano,andhehimselfhadonlyjustescapedafallingroofatValparaiso,in1822。Hementionedacuriouscoincidencewhichthenhappened:hewasplayingatcards,whenaGerman,oneoftheparty,gotup,andsaidhewouldneversitinaroominthesecountrieswiththedoorshut,asowingtohishavingdoneso,hehadnearlylosthislifeatCopiapo。Accordinglyheopenedthedoor;andnosoonerhadhedonethis,thanhecriedout,“Hereitcomesagain!”andthefamousshockcommenced。Thewholepartyescaped。Thedangerinanearthquakeisnotfromthetimelostinopeningthedoor,butfromthechanceofitsbecomingjammedbythemovementofthewalls。