Beforesuckingtheyarequitethin,butafterwardstheybecomeroundandbloatedwithblood,andinthisstateareeasilycrushed。OnewhichIcaughtatIquique,fortheyarefoundinChileandPeru,wasveryempty。Whenplacedonatable,andthoughsurroundedbypeople,ifafingerwaspresented,theboldinsectwouldimmediatelyprotrudeitssucker,makeacharge,andifallowed,drawblood。Nopainwascausedbythewound。Itwascurioustowatchitsbodyduringtheactofsucking,asinlessthantenminutesitchangedfrombeingasflatasawafertoaglobularform。Thisonefeast,forwhichthebenchucawasindebtedtooneoftheofficers,keptitfatduringfourwholemonths;but,afterthefirstfortnight,itwasquitereadytohaveanothersuck。
March27th——WerodeontoMendoza。Thecountrywasbeautifullycultivated,andresembledChile。Thisneighbourhoodiscelebratedforitsfruit;andcertainlynothingcouldappearmoreflourishingthanthevineyardsandtheorchardsoffigs,peaches,andolives。Weboughtwater-melonsnearlytwiceaslargeasaman’shead,mostdeliciouslycoolandwell-flavoured,forahalfpennyapiece;andforthevalueofthreepence,halfawheelbarrowfulofpeaches。Thecultivatedandenclosedpartofthisprovinceisverysmall;
thereislittlemorethanthatwhichwepassedthroughbetweenLuxanandthecapital。Theland,asinChile,owesitsfertilityentirelytoartificialirrigation;anditisreallywonderfultoobservehowextraordinarilyproductiveabarrentraversiaisthusrendered。
WestayedtheensuingdayinMendoza。Theprosperityoftheplacehasmuchdeclinedoflateyears。Theinhabitantssay“itisgoodtolivein,butverybadtogrowrichin。”Thelowerordershavethelounging,recklessmannersoftheGauchosofthePampas;andtheirdress,riding-gear,andhabitsoflife,arenearlythesame。Tomymindthetownhadastupid,forlornaspect。Neithertheboastedalameda,northescenery,isatallcomparablewiththatofSantiago;buttothosewho,comingfromBuenosAyres,havejustcrossedtheunvariedPampas,thegardensandorchardsmustappeardelightful。SirF。Head,speakingoftheinhabitants,says,“Theyeattheirdinners,anditissoveryhot,theygotosleep——andcouldtheydobetter?”IquiteagreewithSirF。Head:thehappydoomoftheMendozinosistoeat,sleepandbeidle。
March29th——WesetoutonourreturntoChile,bytheUspallatapasssituatednorthofMendoza。Wehadtocrossalongandmoststeriletraversiaoffifteenleagues。Thesoilinpartswasabsolutelybare,inotherscoveredbynumberlessdwarfcacti,armedwithformidablespines,andcalledbytheinhabitants“littlelions。”Therewere,also,afewlowbushes。Althoughtheplainisnearlythreethousandfeetabovethesea,thesunwasverypowerful;andtheheataswellasthecloudsofimpalpabledust,renderedthetravellingextremelyirksome。OurcourseduringthedaylaynearlyparalleltotheCordillera,butgraduallyapproachingthem。Beforesunsetweenteredoneofthewidevalleys,orratherbays,whichopenontheplain: